Fantastic video! I acquired an Astra G a year ago, and while the Haynes manuals have been useful, seeing this stuff in action makes a world of difference!
Somebody has replaced pads/disc on one side previous owner nothing to do with a sticking brake. Also that metal sensor thing you mentioned is a harmonic indicator when the pads wear down to extreme this metal should touch the disc and make a horrible noise when you break telling you there is a problem. Obviously it didn't work, maybe was bent at some point. Great vid. Keep up the good work
Great to see someone else doing brakes, it's quite therapeutic. There always has to be one nut or bolt to mess a job up. I hope you feel better soon. Take care, Jeff
Good to see you Martin I did my discs & pads the other week just replaced the drop links this week so I'd like to thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle such jobs you make it look easy which we know it sometimes isn't so I hope you're feeling better soon 👌👍🏻🤝
Hey Martin & Gary!! RESPECT to you both - Top Video on a great car! Been doing diy car work like this for 50 yrs since I was 18. In addition to saving money you know “job” has been done properly!!! Too many garages and main dealers let the “apprentice” mess up your cherished motor!!!
Hi, I think you may possibly have a partially seized calliper there causing the difference in pad wear. I use swan neck pliers to push back front callipers with little resistance. I looked like you used a lot of force to push it back. Keep up the great videos.
I thought that too mate, I push a lot of them back in by hand or with a little bit of a lever with a screwdriver, this one looked at least on the video as if it took a lot of effort
Martin, this is a job I've done on my Astra G. A lot of cars have exactly the same setup with the 7mm Allen head pins. I use lithium grease on the pins. My Astra had a sticking front right caliper so I had to replace it. The piston on that one went back in without any problems so it was the lack of lubrication on the pins that was the cause of the excesive wear. Like you said, this should be picked up on the MoT.
If I have torx that get stuck I try using them with my hand (hammer) impact tool and sometimes they come undone. I had one of my calipers sticking on on my Astra G I had to rebuild it with a new piston. The original caliper pins are good quality and were stainless on mine.
Hi Martin Another good video, the only thing i think i would have done more, would be to renew the brake fluid. I am not sure what the astra spec is but most manufacturers recommend every 40,000 miles and the same with the power steering. Seeing the nearside disc and pads i should imagine the fluid was getting really hot .
When i get them caliper slide pins that stiff to come out i always pull them rubber boots out and clean the hole with a wire brush attachment or rotary burr in a drill or die grinder because I've noticed when they get rust jacking and they squeeze on the rubber which in turn squeezes on the slide bolts.
Nice vid, You have a nice mk4 Astra :) Rizla's Top tip to stubborn brake discs assembly bolt, give then two/three good hit's with a 4mm punch. If rounded off, use a star bit, hammer it home, stud will come out. I have use this method loads of times. Refitting said bolt, make sure it runs free with out disc. Then tighten to about 20 Nm. I have a mk4 Astra SRI-T and changed the Brake's so many times i forgotten, Pleased to se you have used some good quality brake parts. :)
I didn't see you cleaning the anti rust protection from the new discs. I used to use methylated spirits back in the day. You showed us the radically uneven wear on the front pads. I think I'd replace everything rather than just clean them. Both sides always. Be lucky mate.
The coating on these discs is designed to be left on as it will burn off. We did replace all the worn parts. The fault was the sticking pins and the rusty brake pad carrier which was fully cleaned and lubricated.
Hi guys. I'm pretty sure you would have done, but I didn't notice any grease going on the slide pins for the caliper. When the pins were removed, there deffo wasn't enough grease to start with. Be careful though because too much grease can have the opposite effect than too little. Being an ex car mechanic, my thoughts on the difference in pad meat left could be due to the drivers side caliper not working at all and the left doing all the work. As Gary didn't mention any issue with pushing the drivers caliper piston back that probably would rule that one out. I don't know how long you've had the car or if you have done any brake work on it previously. The previuous MOT would or have mentioned about pads getting extremely low as an advisory if bothered to note it. The brake test might not have shown there was an imbalance from one side to another.
yes James, we did grease the pins. I think it was sticking due to the pins and the caliper bracket being rusty making the pads stick. The caliper wasn't stuck, it wound back in freely though. Cheers
Fantastic video! I acquired an Astra G a year ago, and while the Haynes manuals have been useful, seeing this stuff in action makes a world of difference!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Somebody has replaced pads/disc on one side previous owner nothing to do with a sticking brake. Also that metal sensor thing you mentioned is a harmonic indicator when the pads wear down to extreme this metal should touch the disc and make a horrible noise when you break telling you there is a problem. Obviously it didn't work, maybe was bent at some point. Great vid. Keep up the good work
Great to see someone else doing brakes, it's quite therapeutic. There always has to be one nut or bolt to mess a job up. I hope you feel better soon.
Take care, Jeff
Cheers Jeff, You know that only too well lol
Get well soon buddy nice one good to See Gary lending his old man a hand👍
Cheers Ali, Yes, feeling like crap at the moment but it needed doing lol
Well done Martin & to your son too. Such a great helper.
Jobs a goodun....
Nice to see Gary giving you a helping hand Martin. Family you can't beat it
You got that right
Another job complete well done Martin and a shout out to your son for helping you nice to see get well soon pal
Thanks Richard👍
Good to see you Martin I did my discs & pads the other week just replaced the drop links this week so I'd like to thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle such jobs you make it look easy which we know it sometimes isn't so I hope you're feeling better soon 👌👍🏻🤝
Glad to help Darren.
Great to see Gary helping out Martin, this virus is the worst I ever had, get well soon buddy, great video
Thanks Steve, I see you two had it as well👍
Top job Martin good to see Gary giving you a hand hope you get better soon 👍 👍 👍 👍
Thanks Alan👍
Well done Martin & Gary! I used to use a giant C Clamp to wind my calipers in prior to anything else, probably the wrong way.
martin it's beautiful to watch ur video when ur using tools most home diy will have at home nice and simple instructions awesome thanks
Thank you so much 😁
Thank you for making these videos! I have a mk4 Astra coupe as my first car and these videos are really helpful
Evening mart hope your feeling a little better, i recon that calliper is knackered , I had the same a few years back on my old vectra
Project man sorts it 💪🏻
Brake pads, I say no more.
Allan
Hey Martin & Gary!! RESPECT to you both - Top Video on a great car! Been doing diy car work like this for 50 yrs since I was 18. In addition to saving money you know “job” has been done properly!!! Too many garages and main dealers let the “apprentice” mess up your cherished motor!!!
Very true Alan.
Hi, I think you may possibly have a partially seized calliper there causing the difference in pad wear. I use swan neck pliers to push back front callipers with little resistance. I looked like you used a lot of force to push it back. Keep up the great videos.
It actually went back in easily Steve. It was the pins and the rusty carrier.
I thought that too mate, I push a lot of them back in by hand or with a little bit of a lever with a screwdriver, this one looked at least on the video as if it took a lot of effort
My mk4 astra did the same a few week back it was a siezed caliper piston 🙂
Martin, this is a job I've done on my Astra G. A lot of cars have exactly the same setup with the 7mm Allen head pins. I use lithium grease on the pins. My Astra had a sticking front right caliper so I had to replace it. The piston on that one went back in without any problems so it was the lack of lubrication on the pins that was the cause of the excesive wear. Like you said, this should be picked up on the MoT.
Yes, its a common thing Dave, seen it many times.
Fantastic video, job well done, take some time to rest up and get well soon Martin, top stuff, 👍🏻❤
Thanks Dave👍
Thank you for sharing your car repairs watching from South Africa
Great job done a few of those over the years 👍
Well done Martin those torques and Allen bolts are a nightmare
Yes they are William.
Great as usual, get well soon Martin, thanks! (You use silicon grease for the 2 sliders?)
If I have torx that get stuck I try using them with my hand (hammer) impact tool and sometimes they come undone. I had one of my calipers sticking on on my Astra G I had to rebuild it with a new piston. The original caliper pins are good quality and were stainless on mine.
Another brilliant video Martin.
Glad you enjoyed it
thankyou Martin a very nicely done job,hope your feeling better and good to see gary mucking in,,👍👍
Thanks Stevo 👍
Hi Martin
Another good video, the only thing i think i would have done more, would be to renew the brake fluid. I am not sure what the astra spec is but most manufacturers recommend every 40,000 miles and the same with the power steering. Seeing the nearside disc and pads i should imagine the fluid was getting really hot .
Top job mate! Nice to see quality parts have been used.
Another informative and entertaining upload sir.
Your a real trooper...
Keep well.
Thank you kindly
When i get them caliper slide pins that stiff to come out i always pull them rubber boots out and clean the hole with a wire brush attachment or rotary burr in a drill or die grinder because I've noticed when they get rust jacking and they squeeze on the rubber which in turn squeezes on the slide bolts.
The wear indicator on them is a squealer it should make a screech when you brake to let you know it’s getting low
👍👍👍Thanks Martin, hope you get well soon.
Thanks 👍
Top work as always
Great video as always. If it helps a centre punch on outside surface usual cracks disc retaining screw off..
Nice vid, You have a nice mk4 Astra :) Rizla's Top tip to stubborn brake discs assembly bolt, give then two/three good hit's with a 4mm punch. If rounded off, use a star bit, hammer it home, stud will come out. I have use this method loads of times. Refitting said bolt, make sure it runs free with out disc. Then tighten to about 20 Nm. I have a mk4 Astra SRI-T and changed the Brake's so many times i forgotten, Pleased to se you have used some good quality brake parts. :)
excellent show Guys front brake’s and pad
Exellent job sir😊
good blog martin hop get well soon Gary from Crewe
Thanks 👍
Hope you feel better soon bud
such a hero
Hope you feel better soon!
Thank you so much 😁
That wear indicater should make contact with the disc and cause a squealing noise to let u know pads are low
Hopefully you cleaned the protective coating off the discs with brake clean before installing.
They're coated
This coating is designed to be left on and burns off.
@@retrorestore Apologies. My mistake.
@0:42 not much power in that impact gun Martin? Thought about upgrading it to a Dewalt or Milwaukee high torque version?
Half charge battery didn't help.
You want to get high torque ryobi impact wrench I've got one and done a couple of video's on my channel with it
@@Toolsandtech868 Dewalt hi torque would put the Ryobi to bed
Gud video 📹 Martin enjoyed it, just sayin from North of Newcastle 👍
Thanks 👍
Hope you feel better soon sir
Thank you so much Paul.😁
0:05 she might have bad knees ? 😂🙂👍
Great video as usual pal
Thanks 👍
I didn't see you cleaning the anti rust protection from the new discs.
I used to use methylated spirits back in the day.
You showed us the radically uneven wear on the front pads. I think I'd replace everything rather than just clean them.
Both sides always.
Be lucky mate.
The coating on these discs is designed to be left on as it will burn off. We did replace all the worn parts. The fault was the sticking pins and the rusty brake pad carrier which was fully cleaned and lubricated.
@@retrorestore Well that told me didn't it.
I never knew they had anti rust coatings like that nowadays. Every day's a school day.
Hi guys. I'm pretty sure you would have done, but I didn't notice any grease going on the slide pins for the caliper. When the pins were removed, there deffo wasn't enough grease to start with. Be careful though because too much grease can have the opposite effect than too little. Being an ex car mechanic, my thoughts on the difference in pad meat left could be due to the drivers side caliper not working at all and the left doing all the work. As Gary didn't mention any issue with pushing the drivers caliper piston back that probably would rule that one out. I don't know how long you've had the car or if you have done any brake work on it previously. The previuous MOT would or have mentioned about pads getting extremely low as an advisory if bothered to note it. The brake test might not have shown there was an imbalance from one side to another.
yes James, we did grease the pins. I think it was sticking due to the pins and the caliper bracket being rusty making the pads stick. The caliper wasn't stuck, it wound back in freely though. Cheers
Always hit with hammer either side of the disc retaining bolt , this should free the bolt up. If that don’t work use impact tool
Where r u boys based
Get on it sick note 🤣🤣🤣ment in a funny way not horrible 😉👍🏻
Is the caliper ok and not seized?
Caliper was fine.
@@retrorestore then those sliders were definitely the culprit
Hard to believe that they could cause all that wear
Get on the mend Martin . I sense you need another tin of copper grease soon.
Cheers Pete.
lol Pete, that one has lasted well lol
@@retrorestore Will sort one for you.
That nearside caliper is seized !
As I said, it was the carrier pins and the bracket being rusty that stopped the pads releasing. The caliper was not seized as it went back in easily.
No your helper pushed it back and nearly broke his wrist
already invented the screw loosening spray...
U sure u ain't been doing track days behind the camera because those pads and discs r low as anything 😂
You don’t sound well mate. Take it easy.
Excellent video and just a tad required 🫣👍