Just passed by CBT as a 62 year old and picking up my first bike (Yamaha XSR) next week, these videos are a great extension of by CBT training and are helping me think everything through and extend my training, so thank you. Going to ride for 6 months before moving on to Mod 1 & 2…
I failed my first CBT due to general lack of confidence and not being comfortable with braking in particular, but I feel a lot more prepared for next time after watching this video alongside your others in the learner playlist. I really appreciate the fact that you explain the how and why of various topics, its a lot easier to put things into practice once you know why you're doing them. The front brake explanation in particular made a lot of things click! Thankyou very much for taking the time out of your day to share your knowledge and make these videos.
Go on a police bike safe course, great course and that should answer your questions. £65 for a days theory and followed up by a ride out with them afterwards. Very useful for improving your skill set.
Very good but even better you rode past my grandads old house on the crossroads at sea street the house on the opposite corner with the round room and the turret roof omg! the memories came flooding back my mum and dad used to send me there from dunstable for the summer holidays when I was about 8 or 9 to keep me out of trouble I guess 😀 what a beautiful seaside town my dad moved back there later in life you rode put his shop at the end of sea street as well 😊😊
Hi Phil, another very useful clip. Hopefully this will help some students before arriving for road training, whether it's CBT, A2, DAS or advanced training. It's so inspiring, I've got to go for a ride on the Pan European now. PS I really like your Kacka. Kind regards Bob
@@MotorcyclePWR Phil, these videos are going to make our jobs so much more easyer. As you rightly say, just Q & As will establish whether they have seen & understood the vidios. I must say, the quality of info & instruction is first class. If you want me to film you in other productions, I don't mind helping you. Phil you are brilliant.
The H.C does say that one should be at least 2 seconds behind other vehicles so its more than the 2 second rule and also it says that at higher speed it should be more than the 2 second rule. If you look at the table of stopping distances then at say 60 mph the full stopping distance is given as some 240 ft and at 60 mph one is travelling at about 90 ft per sec,. so that means one should be at least 2 and a half seconds behind and at 70 mph one should be some 3 seconds behind or about 315 ft [ 100 metres ] About being able to stop in the distance that one can see to be clear and this is taught on bends also its not just on an open road. If one can see half a mile past other traffic one shouldn't ride to that but to the closeness of other traffic that is in front of us. So if that car in front is doing say 50 mph then we should give the appropriate safe stopping distance to that car even tho we can see further. This is most important whilst leaning over on bends as if that car suddenly stops and we are giving what we consider to be that safe distance we must slow ourselves but being that we are leant over our braking ability is already compromised by both our speed and lean angle so we cannot brake as hard as if it were on a straight road. So any braking that we do will be gentler and so further than the space we have already given. So on bends its far safer to apply a 3 second rule and slow down giving greater space also.
Been riding a few years now but my skill level is middling at best, so this is always helpful. Just to add I ride a Harley, they have a back brake in name only! Thanks
Very useful! Thank you so much! And its in plain english and very easy to follow instructions! My IBT training in two weeks. Hopefully all goes well! I am bit nervous for road part. 🏍
Also, it answered my question: Why does my bike feel wobbly when i go to complete stop. I only have one month of experience in slow riding manoeuvres. As my partner teaches me a bit. But again, it's not perfect. Just get me ready at least a few basics before IBT. Thank you so much for such a clear video.
glad it was useful to you. It takes time to be "at one" with a bike, but the more you know and the more you do and practice the better and more confident you will be. I wish you well with your training.
Yes that is sooooo true about pulling the front brake whilst acceleration is still on, happened to me once in Greece on holiday, back wheel span out causing me to go over and luckily it was just a little painful and leg cut . I’m a total newby just completed my CBT on 22/12/22, bought myself a SYM FIDDLE 2 125 2013 Automatic Will do for a year or 2 just to gain a little experience
Great video currently doing my direct access and my instructor says not to use front brake unless going slow also when you was turning left I have been told that close the gap could give me some advise much appreciated
Thank you, I hope your instructor has told you that you usually don’t need the front brake at low speed, it’s your main high speed stopper. Rear brake is softer and more adequate at low, ie under 5mph speeds. Good luck with your training
thanks Glen. The kit in this video is Hein Gericke, they are about 12 years old and are all weather. The jacket has a waterproof Sheltex membrane, the trousers Goretex. But they always felt wet in the rain as the outer fabric soaked up the wet!
Experienced car driver, I'm currently between CBT and DAS. Frustratingly I struggled with emergency stopping on the CBT today, my instinct being to brake hard but without locking up. It was raining and I didn't skid. They told me I was too snappy on the brake and to squeeze the brake gently, as you mention here. I did so but ended up rolling too far. I found on road riding fine, a natural feeling and in reasonable control of the machine. But found exercises in a training environment unnatural, I was tense and felt like a complete novice. I'm now starting to doubt whether I can, or even want to do this. It's not easy.
Thanks for your comments. Id like to say dont let the doubts creep in and if you want to ride a bike, do it. From what you say you are more than capable. Training can be frustrating sometimes but it should be fun too. If you are not locking up and controlling the bike then its a very good start. Cbt is basic training and things get better as you progress. Plus abs on bikes is a bonus, but, yes, good braking skills need to be learned and polished, and that doesn't happen in one session. You will achieve it! If ultimately the training environment is not suited to you, a different one can help you develop. I wish you well, please comment if you need further help. All the best
@@MotorcyclePWR Thank you for such a thoughtful and supportive reply, it's much appreciated. I had the first day on a 650, and to start I thought I'm not going to be able to do this. But after a short time I was taught the art of finesse clutch, throttle, and brake control, which I picked up very quickly. A very positive day which I thoroughly enjoyed, and on the ride back to base I felt in good control of the bike, and absolutely loved it! Need to work on observations because I know I'm making mistakes. My instructor said it's only the first day and that will come next. I never realised how different riding a bike is to a car.
im so pleased to hear this! Glad you have enjoyed the start of your course. Yes, finesse is so important, not just for comfort but especially for control. I wish you well with it, all the best
@@MotorcyclePWR To my astonishment I passed first time today. Early frustrations made way to realisation of my capability realised by an expert trainer at TT Motorcycle School in Brighton. But may I thank you also for your content, the information of which inspired and helped me in the early stages towards the right attitude.
Good & useful video.... Any thoughts re use of tapered braking to aid slow smooth stopping ? (not being cocky or wishing to get ahead of myself prior to DAS). Thank you (Incidentally I also noticed this video semed to be your intro music transition... Leaving behind "Greatest Hits of NCALT"... & switching instead to " Best of Biker Dance Beats")😉
Hi AW8. tapered braking is very important IMO, not just for finesse but also stability. Especially for taller, heavier bikes with riders with shorter legs. as it prevents weight surge to the front. My stops are often done with the front tapered often to 0% just prior to full stop, with the rear finishing the stop, unless I am stopping with an immediate neutral (advanced technique). But then I will still taper the front. Yes, i felt the need for a change! all the best
@@MotorcyclePWR Thanks for that....Taper comments totally make sense. Current main car I use is an auto. I still prefer manuals for proper & smooth driving. Anyway...Best keep the chat bike focused
@AW8 re slow smooth stopping, i dont use the front brake for very slow speed stops (unless I anticipate early neutral) so for a smooth controlled stop at slow speed I do the following: Maintain enough throttle above tick over for stability with clutch slip and rear brake combination (classic slow speed control). To stop I gently disengage the clutch and gently close the throttle as the clutch leaves the friction zone and biting point behind, not before as stability drops, whilst blending the rear brake pressure for smoothness. This enables a smooth stop without unwanted weight transference and gives time to co ordinate foot placement as a "once touchdown", normally heel, toe, stop. (We dont like "skateboarding"!) It is possible to completely stop and then put the foot down, but that needs more practice! Hope this helps!
@@MotorcyclePWR That last reply is really helpful & totally understood - thanks 👍 Once stopped I (subject to camber etc), put LEFT foot down & end up doing a bit of an antiquated (Hendon?) shuffle (keeping back brake on other than when selecting gears) ....Yet to see a video online explaining DSA test expectations/allowances re foot down requirements & sequences....... Maybe a future idea for a short future video ? VERY repectful I am not paying you for DAS training, (sadly a bit too far away)...Do feel free to ignore me at any time ! 🙂 (Time & motivation permitting..maybe check my comments on your excellent "reducing speed limits" video ). Thanks yet again 🙂
Hi, thank you for your video. I found it very useful. What is your opinion on holding 2 fingers on front break at all times? Can this lead to the same problems which you mentioned for the case of 4 fingers at all times? Is there a point to develop a technique of throttle control with palm and 3 fingers (thumb, ring and pinky) or should riders just use 4 fingers on break when it is needed and control the throttle with all fingers when break is not needed as you described in this video?
Thank you for your question. So from a learner perspective 4 fingers is best, and creates a good baseline discipline when new. Some people cant reach with the little finger so 3 finger braking/ clutching is then fine. My belief is that once experienced and when you have your own bike, 2 fingers can be ok if levers are adjusted for good operation and the rider is practiced in braking, especially in an emergency. But i think that resting fingers on the brake lever when throttle is open is potentially unsafe as acceleration and front braking is not a good combination! I hope this answers your question. All the best.
Thanks for your comment. Possibly, possibly not. If the throttle is not closed before brake application it could be an off. Overall stopping distance depends more on hazard awareness and anticipation plus being able to brake effectively. On some bikes 2 fingers may not be able to apply maximum controlled braking vs 4 fingers, but thats a whole new debate!
I agree with everything you said, but when are local government and central government going to take responsibility for the state of our roads which are getting more dangerous for cars let alone motorcycles.
ah the question of responsibility in all things road related. I get the impression that UK road safety is manipulated by constantly reducing speed limits and putting up extra signs. But attention to road condition and driver training is not on the agenda...
Love seeing content like this, it’s nice to know there’s instructors out there willing to take the time to make videos like this, keep it up!
@Chris Sims Thank you for your comment Chris. Always happy to help out fellow bikers current and new. The more we know the safer we can be. Ride safe.
Just passed by CBT as a 62 year old and picking up my first bike (Yamaha XSR) next week, these videos are a great extension of by CBT training and are helping me think everything through and extend my training, so thank you. Going to ride for 6 months before moving on to Mod 1 & 2…
I failed my first CBT due to general lack of confidence and not being comfortable with braking in particular, but I feel a lot more prepared for next time after watching this video alongside your others in the learner playlist. I really appreciate the fact that you explain the how and why of various topics, its a lot easier to put things into practice once you know why you're doing them. The front brake explanation in particular made a lot of things click!
Thankyou very much for taking the time out of your day to share your knowledge and make these videos.
Go on a police bike safe course, great course and that should answer your questions. £65 for a days theory and followed up by a ride out with them afterwards. Very useful for improving your skill set.
BRAKE PADS ARE CHEAPER THAN ENGINE PARTS. THANK YOU FOR SHOWING THIS ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE
Very good but even better you rode past my grandads old house on the crossroads at sea street the house on the opposite corner with the round room and the turret roof omg! the memories came flooding back my mum and dad used to send me there from dunstable for the summer holidays when I was about 8 or 9 to keep me out of trouble I guess 😀 what a beautiful seaside town my dad moved back there later in life you rode put his shop at the end of sea street as well 😊😊
Hi Phil, another very useful clip. Hopefully this will help some students before arriving for road training, whether it's CBT, A2, DAS or advanced training. It's so inspiring, I've got to go for a ride on the Pan European now. PS I really like your Kacka. Kind regards Bob
thank you, hoping it helps our students out. Yes, get out on that Pan!!
@@MotorcyclePWR Phil, these videos are going to make our jobs so much more easyer. As you rightly say, just Q & As will establish whether they have seen & understood the vidios. I must say, the quality of info & instruction is first class. If you want me to film you in other productions, I don't mind helping you. Phil you are brilliant.
@@bobhill8852 Thank you Bob, very much appreciated. We re all about training safer riders
The H.C does say that one should be at least 2 seconds behind other vehicles so its more than the 2 second rule and also it says that at higher speed it should be more than the 2 second rule. If you look at the table of stopping distances then at say 60 mph the full stopping distance is given as some 240 ft and at 60 mph one is travelling at about 90 ft per sec,. so that means one should be at least 2 and a half seconds behind and at 70 mph one should be some 3 seconds behind or about 315 ft [ 100 metres ]
About being able to stop in the distance that one can see to be clear and this is taught on bends also its not just on an open road. If one can see half a mile past other traffic one shouldn't ride to that but to the closeness of other traffic that is in front of us. So if that car in front is doing say 50 mph then we should give the appropriate safe stopping distance to that car even tho we can see further. This is most important whilst leaning over on bends as if that car suddenly stops and we are giving what we consider to be that safe distance we must slow ourselves but being that we are leant over our braking ability is already compromised by both our speed and lean angle so we cannot brake as hard as if it were on a straight road. So any braking that we do will be gentler and so further than the space we have already given. So on bends its far safer to apply a 3 second rule and slow down giving greater space also.
Been riding a few years now but my skill level is middling at best, so this is always helpful. Just to add I ride a Harley, they have a back brake in name only! Thanks
Thanks Mark, ah yes ive ridden bikes like that in the past!! Glad some of this is helpful to you, ride safe
Very useful! Thank you so much! And its in plain english and very easy to follow instructions! My IBT training in two weeks. Hopefully all goes well! I am bit nervous for road part. 🏍
Also, it answered my question: Why does my bike feel wobbly when i go to complete stop. I only have one month of experience in slow riding manoeuvres. As my partner teaches me a bit. But again, it's not perfect. Just get me ready at least a few basics before IBT. Thank you so much for such a clear video.
glad it was useful to you. It takes time to be "at one" with a bike, but the more you know and the more you do and practice the better and more confident you will be. I wish you well with your training.
Yes that is sooooo true about pulling the front brake whilst acceleration is still on, happened to me once in Greece on holiday, back wheel span out causing me to go over and luckily it was just a little painful and leg cut .
I’m a total newby just completed my CBT on 22/12/22, bought myself a SYM FIDDLE 2 125 2013 Automatic
Will do for a year or 2 just to gain a little experience
Great video currently doing my direct access and my instructor says not to use front brake unless going slow also when you was turning left I have been told that close the gap could give me some advise much appreciated
Thank you, I hope your instructor has told you that you usually don’t need the front brake at low speed, it’s your main high speed stopper. Rear brake is softer and more adequate at low, ie under 5mph speeds. Good luck with your training
Gr8 video yet again. May I ask the name of your jacket and trousers and are they all weather. Thank you
thanks Glen. The kit in this video is Hein Gericke, they are about 12 years old and are all weather. The jacket has a waterproof Sheltex membrane, the trousers Goretex. But they always felt wet in the rain as the outer fabric soaked up the wet!
Great job.I learned a lot.
Thank you...👍
Experienced car driver, I'm currently between CBT and DAS. Frustratingly I struggled with emergency stopping on the CBT today, my instinct being to brake hard but without locking up. It was raining and I didn't skid. They told me I was too snappy on the brake and to squeeze the brake gently, as you mention here. I did so but ended up rolling too far. I found on road riding fine, a natural feeling and in reasonable control of the machine. But found exercises in a training environment unnatural, I was tense and felt like a complete novice. I'm now starting to doubt whether I can, or even want to do this. It's not easy.
Thanks for your comments.
Id like to say dont let the doubts creep in and if you want to ride a bike, do it.
From what you say you are more than capable.
Training can be frustrating sometimes but it should be fun too.
If you are not locking up and controlling the bike then its a very good start. Cbt is basic training and things get better as you progress. Plus abs on bikes is a bonus, but, yes, good braking skills need to be learned and polished, and that doesn't happen in one session.
You will achieve it!
If ultimately the training environment is not suited to you, a different one can help you develop. I wish you well, please comment if you need further help. All the best
@@MotorcyclePWR Thank you for such a thoughtful and supportive reply, it's much appreciated. I had the first day on a 650, and to start I thought I'm not going to be able to do this. But after a short time I was taught the art of finesse clutch, throttle, and brake control, which I picked up very quickly. A very positive day which I thoroughly enjoyed, and on the ride back to base I felt in good control of the bike, and absolutely loved it! Need to work on observations because I know I'm making mistakes. My instructor said it's only the first day and that will come next.
I never realised how different riding a bike is to a car.
im so pleased to hear this! Glad you have enjoyed the start of your course. Yes, finesse is so important, not just for comfort but especially for control. I wish you well with it, all the best
@@MotorcyclePWR To my astonishment I passed first time today. Early frustrations made way to realisation of my capability realised by an expert trainer at TT Motorcycle School in Brighton. But may I thank you also for your content, the information of which inspired and helped me in the early stages towards the right attitude.
Good & useful video....
Any thoughts re use of tapered braking to aid slow smooth stopping ? (not being cocky or wishing to get ahead of myself prior to DAS).
Thank you
(Incidentally I also noticed this video semed to be your intro music transition... Leaving behind "Greatest Hits of NCALT"... & switching instead to " Best of Biker Dance Beats")😉
Not sure if seen but I edited to ask a Q re tapered breaking. No need rush to reply 🙂
Hi AW8. tapered braking is very important IMO, not just for finesse but also stability. Especially for taller, heavier bikes with riders with shorter legs. as it prevents weight surge to the front. My stops are often done with the front tapered often to 0% just prior to full stop, with the rear finishing the stop, unless I am stopping with an immediate neutral (advanced technique). But then I will still taper the front.
Yes, i felt the need for a change! all the best
@@MotorcyclePWR
Thanks for that....Taper comments totally make sense.
Current main
car I use is an auto. I still prefer manuals for proper & smooth driving.
Anyway...Best keep the chat bike focused
@AW8 re slow smooth stopping, i dont use the front brake for very slow speed stops (unless I anticipate early neutral) so for a smooth controlled stop at slow speed I do the following: Maintain enough throttle above tick over for stability with clutch slip and rear brake combination (classic slow speed control). To stop I gently disengage the clutch and gently close the throttle as the clutch leaves the friction zone and biting point behind, not before as stability drops, whilst blending the rear brake pressure for smoothness. This enables a smooth stop without unwanted weight transference and gives time to co ordinate foot placement as a "once touchdown", normally heel, toe, stop. (We dont like "skateboarding"!) It is possible to completely stop and then put the foot down, but that needs more practice! Hope this helps!
@@MotorcyclePWR
That last reply is really helpful & totally understood - thanks 👍
Once stopped I (subject to camber etc), put LEFT foot down & end up doing a bit of an antiquated (Hendon?) shuffle (keeping back brake on other than when selecting gears) ....Yet to see a video online explaining DSA test expectations/allowances re foot down requirements & sequences....... Maybe a future idea for a short future video ?
VERY repectful I am not paying you for DAS training, (sadly a bit too far away)...Do feel free to ignore me at any time ! 🙂
(Time & motivation permitting..maybe
check my comments on your excellent "reducing speed limits" video ).
Thanks yet again 🙂
May I ask where this is that you're riding through?
It looks very nice.
thank you, its mainly Herne Bay and Whitstable in Kent
Loved the price of that fuel at 22:14
yes, seems cheap at 127! Though I do remember long ago filling up with 2 star for about £4 !
Hi, thank you for your video. I found it very useful. What is your opinion on holding 2 fingers on front break at all times? Can this lead to the same problems which you mentioned for the case of 4 fingers at all times?
Is there a point to develop a technique of throttle control with palm and 3 fingers (thumb, ring and pinky) or should riders just use 4 fingers on break when it is needed and control the throttle with all fingers when break is not needed as you described in this video?
Thank you for your question. So from a learner perspective 4 fingers is best, and creates a good baseline discipline when new. Some people cant reach with the little finger so 3 finger braking/ clutching is then fine.
My belief is that once experienced and when you have your own bike, 2 fingers can be ok if levers are adjusted for good operation and the rider is practiced in braking, especially in an emergency. But i think that resting fingers on the brake lever when throttle is open is potentially unsafe as acceleration and front braking is not a good combination!
I hope this answers your question. All the best.
@@MotorcyclePWR thank you for your answer.
I have my own rule not 2sec but 5sec in dry and long distance in wet slowly reducing my speed well ahead of time
Doesn't covering the front brakes with 2 fingers will save you a good amount of braking distance?
Thanks for your comment. Possibly, possibly not.
If the throttle is not closed before brake application it could be an off.
Overall stopping distance depends more on hazard awareness and anticipation plus being able to brake effectively. On some bikes 2 fingers may not be able to apply maximum controlled braking vs 4 fingers, but thats a whole new debate!
I agree with everything you said, but when are local government and central government going to take responsibility for the state of our roads which are getting more dangerous for cars let alone motorcycles.
ah the question of responsibility in all things road related. I get the impression that UK road safety is manipulated by constantly reducing speed limits and putting up extra signs. But attention to road condition and driver training is not on the agenda...
✅✅✅👍👍👍
Would of been better to see your eyes. But good info.