As an advanced police motorcyclist I can attest to the quality and depth of this instruction…for the instructor, as sunny as it is, get that sun visor up….we need to see your eyes!
@sm1rf1 thank you for your comments, much appreciated. Yes, as regards the visor, its more to do with being reluctant in front of the camera than the sun! My eyes are visible during live training however! All the best
Great work thank you. Just retired and now starting to ride again. Bike feels heavy and I realise I have lost confidence at slow speed. Now using your advice to help me nail the issue.
I see logic, (after tests hopefully passed), in initially sourcing a cosmetically tired naked bike, (maybe CB500/600 Bandit or similar), to further practice low speed skills on. Sadly such bikes currently little or no lesser cost than a tidy equivalent machines. Anyway 1st world problem & my issue to think about. Another great & useful video. Thanks
Another fantastic explanation as per usual, just on the two finger clutch control technique, only ever seen it correctly applied with short racing levers and as the A68 is not a race track why on earth would you use the technique 😕
Good video - 49yr old newish rider I have CBT but runs out soon advised to practice before MOD 1 ( got 125cc Varadero but not practiced much but will ) I have problems with slow speed and am aware it a key skill. I was under the illusion that you open and close the clutch slightly but I see you keep it in same position and you move just rear brake. I also didn't realise how important keeping head up was either and not to look at the cone in slalom maneuver. Will now practice all this. Do your students get problems with numb hands with all the hand movements? as I do.
Thanks Stephen, its important that the clutch does move, but only as much as necessary. Experience will tell you when to ease it out or ease it in; eg if your power is up but you feel unstable ease it out a fraction to give more drive at the back wheel; if you feel your fighting the momentum with the rear brake, ease the clutch in a fraction, then you need less brake. The tighter you turn, the more power you need at the back wheel. You re likely to get some hand discomfort as a new rider as your using muscles and tendons in a way you're not used to, if they are numb you re either overdoing it or gripping the controls too tightly. I wish you well with your training. Happy to help further if required.
Excellent video, but about 6 1/2 minutes of it don’t apply to my circumstance. I have a Suzuki Burgman 650 with a CVT and a VFR1200X DCT. Any suggestions for the lack of a handlebar mounted clutch? The Burgman has the rear brake lever mounted where the clutch would be. On the VFR 1200X, the rear foot brake is 70% rear, 30% front. Thanks for any help you can be for those of us with automatics.
@2old4allthis hi, thank you for your comments. Where the autos are involved, the techniques are the same, minus the clutch. So using the rear break in conjunction with extra revs, but maybe not as many as you might with a manual. So its a process of experimentation with rear brake/throttle balance. As regards the 70/30 R/F split, its the same with some manual bikes with combined braking systems, it feels a bit different as the front brake comes on when you dont really want it, but providing its not excessive or harsh it doesnt seem to make the slow speed control technique problematic. Gentle experimentation and practice will hopefully help. All the best
As an advanced police motorcyclist I can attest to the quality and depth of this instruction…for the instructor, as sunny as it is, get that sun visor up….we need to see your eyes!
@sm1rf1 thank you for your comments, much appreciated. Yes, as regards the visor, its more to do with being reluctant in front of the camera than the sun! My eyes are visible during live training however! All the best
The best motorcycle instructions thus far. Thank you for your sharing.
thank you for your kind comments, glad it is helpful. all the best
Just about to take my Mod1/2 after taking my first CBT 3 months ago at the age of 45. This video is really useful. Thankyou
@Dean Roberts Thank you, Glad it was helpful! I wish you well for your tests
Great work thank you. Just retired and now starting to ride again. Bike feels heavy and I realise I have lost confidence at slow speed. Now using your advice to help me nail the issue.
thank you, glad the vids are helpful, i wish you well with confidence building, all the best
Great video. Taking my mod 1 next week and this is the best video I've watched regarding slow speed driving
thank you, i wish you well for Mod 1
Really clear, instructive commentary. Attempting M1 tomorrow and this has certainly boost my confidence. Thanks 🙂
@Andy Cleeter Thank you, glad your confidence is boosted, hope Mod 1 goes well. All the best
Thank you very much for this helpful video.
I see logic, (after tests hopefully passed), in initially sourcing a cosmetically tired naked bike, (maybe CB500/600 Bandit or similar), to further practice low speed skills on. Sadly such bikes currently little or no lesser cost than a tidy equivalent machines. Anyway 1st world problem & my issue to think about.
Another great & useful video. Thanks
fabulous idea, honing and hard wiring the slow stuff makes a big difference to riding. Practice makes perfect!!!
great lesson! Thank you
you re very welcome, hope it has been helpful
Another fantastic explanation as per usual, just on the two finger clutch control technique, only ever seen it correctly applied with short racing levers and as the A68 is not a race track why on earth would you use the technique 😕
Good video - 49yr old newish rider I have CBT but runs out soon advised to practice before MOD 1 ( got 125cc Varadero but not practiced much but will ) I have problems with slow speed and am aware it a key skill. I was under the illusion that you open and close the clutch slightly but I see you keep it in same position and you move just rear brake. I also didn't realise how important keeping head up was either and not to look at the cone in slalom maneuver. Will now practice all this. Do your students get problems with numb hands with all the hand movements? as I do.
Thanks Stephen, its important that the clutch does move, but only as much as necessary. Experience will tell you when to ease it out or ease it in; eg if your power is up but you feel unstable ease it out a fraction to give more drive at the back wheel; if you feel your fighting the momentum with the rear brake, ease the clutch in a fraction, then you need less brake. The tighter you turn, the more power you need at the back wheel.
You re likely to get some hand discomfort as a new rider as your using muscles and tendons in a way you're not used to, if they are numb you re either overdoing it or gripping the controls too tightly. I wish you well with your training. Happy to help further if required.
I would love to spend an hour with you I am not a confident rider
Thanks Mick, i hope the videos can help you develop some extra confidence.
I presume you are not near East Kent?
@@MotorcyclePWR unfortunately not but I have enjoyed learning from your videos
Ah ok, but glad the videos are of some help. Always happy to answer questions if required.
All the best with your biking
Excellent video, but about 6 1/2 minutes of it don’t apply to my circumstance. I have a Suzuki Burgman 650 with a CVT and a VFR1200X DCT. Any suggestions for the lack of a handlebar mounted clutch? The Burgman has the rear brake lever mounted where the clutch would be. On the VFR 1200X, the rear foot brake is 70% rear, 30% front. Thanks for any help you can be for those of us with automatics.
@2old4allthis hi, thank you for your comments. Where the autos are involved, the techniques are the same, minus the clutch. So using the rear break in conjunction with extra revs, but maybe not as many as you might with a manual. So its a process of experimentation with rear brake/throttle balance. As regards the 70/30 R/F split, its the same with some manual bikes with combined braking systems, it feels a bit different as the front brake comes on when you dont really want it, but providing its not excessive or harsh it doesnt seem to make the slow speed control technique problematic. Gentle experimentation and practice will hopefully help. All the best
@@MotorcyclePWR Thanks
Great stuff. Luv your content.
Btw, is your jacket rainproof?
What brand? Tkx
Jack
many thanks. It was an old Hein Gericke jacket, once was waterproof but after a decade not so much so!
@@MotorcyclePWRmaybe NikWax can help it. I’m from the NW Scottish Highlands where it’s pretty wet and I’ve revived a few Goretex jackets this way.