Are you guys looking to pick up an EOS R5? I can't wait to get my hands on one and see how it pairs to the c300 mark iii. These cameras were made for each other!
I remember watching this video of yours.. I have a similar set-up with a Canon R6 and this video helped alot when I was building out my rig at the time.. I use a SmallRig VB99 and connect directly to my camera via USB-C. I can easily get a few hours of shooting no problem. I also have a 12 Volt cable going to my monitor. Simple and clean set-up. I have a spare V-mount battery and I can comfortably shoot all day and not have to worry about my battery levels..
Man, comments like this are why making videos like this are so cool. I love helping people explore and find the build that works best for them!!! Yeah switching to v mount power when I was on mirrorless was game changing. Not having to manage all the different battery types really changed how I planned a shoot
I know im late,, i just picked upp the eos R and love it! cant wait to deck it out, im coming from an m50 crop sensor . smh, lol ,good video, love the stop motion! great technique!
Man, you’re gonna love it! It’s still such an underrated camera! I was shooting a multicam project yesterday with a c300 mark iii and a 1DX mark iii and still had a pair of EOSr’s on the shoot that I’ll have no problem matching the footage to the other cams. Thanks for checking out the vid, friend! 🤘🏼
Thanks Sam, just looking at picking up an R5 or R6. I'm coming from being a stills guy with an 5Dmk4, which..... Was not a great video platform. But with that, I want to get into some moderately serious video with the unit, and i was looking at how to kit it up. I was already giving some thought to how to power all the doodads. Very helpful. Also very interested in the shared knowledge of your storytelling. Subscribed.
Much appreciated Blair! Glad I could offer some inspiration for your upcoming rig build! Be sure to hit me up if you have any questions. I always love hearing how people build their rigs out to fit how they plan to use it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks for this video, you give a great explanation for all your choices, and it's clear that you've been using this setup a lot so you can speak from experience. One question I have (and I know this video is two years old now, but I'm still living in hope that you'll see this and answer 😅) is why did you decide to use a wireless follow focus system, when using a manual follow focus would appear to work the same, but with less complexity. What I mean is, with the wireless controller being so close to the lens already in this configuration, could it not be replaced with something like the Tilta Pocket Follow Focus? Or is there something I'm missing? Thanks!
Hey Colin, thanks for checking out the video! I really appreciate it. Hard to believe it’s been 2 years since I made this. You’re absolutely right, you could 100% use a manual follow focus. I went with the wireless when building this rig because at the time (and even more so now), I do have an off camera focus puller. So it was just a little more versatile to have the wireless system so that I could pull the controller off and give it to my focus puller when that was needed. But if you’re a solo camera op, I would definitely just put a manual follow focus on there and save yourself some frustration in terms of powering and connection concerns.
@@SamLucas26 Thank you so much for taking the time to reply! Great, that makes sense. I wasn't sure if there was some other reason, like if you found the manual version couldn't correctly fit at the same angle, or introduced more camera shake. Thanks again, I really appreciate you sharing your experience!
@@colinjudge1261 yeah, absolutely. And honestly, the tilta connection is really solid but there were a handful of times that it did have some connection issues that slowed a shoot down and in those times, I did wish for a manual follow focus. Less to go wrong for sure!
@@SamLucas26 Probably worth it overall though to go with wireless, as apart from being able to hand-off to a focus puller, it also makes it easier to set up in different configurations, like shoulder rig, or on a gimbal. Cheers for your insight!
@@SamLucas26 I agree, but I stopped watching this particular video when he said the camera body and the atomos are the only responsible (with enfasis) for the image quality, when the truth, the image quality is given vastly by the lens.
@@JavierMadinabeitia Correct. But that goes without saying. I was referring to accessories. The reason I mentioned the camera body and atomos is because the atomos actually pulls additional image quality out of this particular camera body (not all bodies) where as none of the other accessories do that.
Hi Sam, I have a Canon T5i and I would like to build a good rig. Please let me know how can I do it. There is no cage for this camera. Please help me make one just like the one on this video!!!!!
Hey Jorge, thanks so much for checking out the video! The first place I would start with is the cage. You've got to find a good cage that fits your camera and that serves as the foundation to build your rig off of. You may not find a custom fit one for the t5i but they make universal ones that will probably work pretty well for you. Then I would get a top handle and a monitor. From there, I would find a baseplate and rod solution. The one I linked to in the description that I use in this video is a great, universal, solution. Then from there it's just a matter of figuring out what accessories you need? Do you need a lens support, or a follow focus? Do you need V mount power on the back? And just let what you actually need inform how you build the rig. Don't buy all kinds of accessories that you don't need in order to just build a bigger camera rig. But like I said, start with the cage, then maybe a top handle and external monitor if you need it and your camera has the capabilities. And then move to the rods and any additional accessories that you might need after that. Thanks again, friend. I hope this helps!
I'm in the process of building my rig or my R5. I've been freehanding it for thepast couple months now and it does a great job with the IBIS. Can't wait to make this camera even better.
Right on brother! Yeah, a rig like this just takes it to the next level. Your camera essentially becomes a sensor donor but it becomes so much more practical to use! Glad you got a little inspiration for your rig from this video 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@SamLucas26 where on the tilta v mount plate do you plug the R5 dummy battery into... the tilta plate says 8v and ive seen elsewhere that youre supposed to plug it into a 7.2v....
@@edgarmelero7079 Yeah, it still goes in the 8V slot. The dummy battery buffers the power to give you the correct powering for the camera. It’s definitely a little confusing though
Hey man, thank so much for checking out the video! So the canon dummy battery and cable that I use to tap into the v mount plate actually ships with the v mount plate. Tilta is pretty good about including cabling with their products. The battery plate actually included the cabling I needed to power both the camera and the monitor so it’s pretty convenient. So I’ll link that here if you want to pick up the whole battery plate and then I’ll also link a dummy battery option by itself in case you don’t want to buy the whole plate and everything and just want the dummy battery and cable. Battery plate w/cables: amzn.to/3KwatNW Dummy battery to PTAP/DTAP: amzn.to/3Fgbysb
Heck yeah! I just helped a buddy build this exact rig for his R5 and it turned out so awesome. Even now, I have my c300 mark iii and a 1DX mark iii and I still love shooting with this little rig on the EOSr. You won't be disappointed!!!
Right on! I’m glad it helped you out friend! I think a rig like this will do so well with the R5, it’ll be a super capable setup 👌🏼 Happy rigging, friend 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Hey Anthony, thanks for checking out my videos, man! That dummy battery actually comes with the battery plate if you order the same one as I use. But here’s a link to just the dummy battery as well that works with battery plate www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488601-REG/tilta_db_dc_lpe6_m_dc_dummy_battery.html
Hey Thomas, thanks a ton for watching, friend! Are you asking about the cables? I use a dummy battery that goes into the camera and connects via 8V DC to the battery plate. It actually ships with the battery plate. I’ll link it here (full disclosure, it is an affiliate link) if you want to check it out amzn.to/3mhpmeF
So I have nearly an identical setup. I was wondering my monitor has an 8v port meaning the the titla battery plate doesn't have it's 8v port available for the dummy battery coming from the r5 camera... i was hoping to power the monitor and camera via the v mount. concerned about swapping the cameras dummy battery to the d tap input in the titla battery plate for example. don't want to fry the camera but then don't want to have 800 dollars worth of v mount batteries to power a 300 dollar monitor only. i assume your ninja doesnt use the 8v out of the tilta battery plate?
Yeah, the ninja powers via the 12V output. But the beauty of the dummy battery in the camera is that it buffers the power going into the camera to make sure you’re getting the correct voltage so you’ll definitely be good running d tap power to the camera with the dummy battery without worrying about damaging the camera because the dummy battery will convert whatever the input source is to the needed voltage for the camera. So a cable like this would do it for you amzn.to/3hf6M3d
So, I rock the blackmagic cinema 4k and typically run just BRAW. I use to use canon cameras and stuff but I couldn't imagine going back HOWEVER, how do you like the prores in a professional setting? Is it quick in the timeline? Are settings baked in?
Yeah, ProRes is great, it’s industry standard for both flexibility and manageable file size. There’s more Hollywood films shot on prores out of ARRI than there is in raw which obviously speaks to its feasibility as a codec. Editing software is optimized for ProRes too so it actually edits smoother than just about anything else you can shoot in. In fact, I’ll often transcode the raw out of my c200 and C300 mark iii into prores before editing. Settings are baked in with prores but it’s still really flexible and doesn’t crush the dynamic range or color depth.
Hey Reko, thanks for watching! In general my favorite shoulder rig is the Bright Tangerine Kasbah. But the Polar Pro Pivot looks really incredible too. I’ve never used it but it’s about half the price and I’ve used a lot of polar pro products and never had anything bad to say so I thinks it’s a solid option too.
Hey Stephen, thanks for checking out the video! That really depends on the lens you’re using. Some lenses are just louder than others. But what I can tell you using this rig, exactly like this, on both the EOSr and the R5, using both EF and RF L series glass, I’ve never heard the autofocus motors in any of my work, ever. Now, I do usually record audio externally. I’m typically only using the on camera audio as scratch, or as a backup in case there’s issues, but I’ve never had an issue with any of my lenses and this is my list of lenses that I own just for reference: Sigma art EF 18-35 f/1.8 Sigma art EF 20mm f/1.4 Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L ii Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L is Canon RF 70-200 f/2.8L
I haven’t switched over to the V+ yet but it’s such a great recorder so it will probably happen soon! My r5 setup is actually the same as this rig just with right cage for the r5 vs the r. Thanks for watching, friend 🙏🏼
I bought the Canon R5 and it's far better than my Canon 5D Mk IV. One thing I love about the R 5 is head & eye tracking. When it comes to video and photography that is a big plus. One thing also I hate about Canon is they banned all 3rd party manufacturers from producing RF lenses for the R5.
Yeah, the autofocus performance is the single greatest argument for mirrorless cameras imo. I mean there’s definitely other benefits but the improved autofocus performance is definitely a huge one! Yeah, on one hand, it’s definitely frustrating to not have other lens options but I also understand it to a degree. When these companies spend a lot of time and effort creating cameras to produce a certain image quality, to potentially have that image quality wrecked by shoddy third party lenses where a potential consumer base will associate that image quality with the camera it was shot in more so than the lens, I can understand it to a degree. I wouldn’t be surprised though if we eventually see sigma RF lenses. I think manufacturers will have to meet a certain quality standard but as time goes on I think we’ll see third party RF options from the more reputable third party brands like sigma and tamron.
Hey Sam so bought an extension cable to convert the tilta dummy battery DC to DTAP and also tried it with the tilta dummy direct with DC to the battery plate, neither will power any of my canon cameras? is there some trick that I'm missing?
Sorry about that, man! No, that sounds like it should be working. I’ve actually powered my camera both of those ways, myself. Here’s tilta’s official dummy battery to work with that battery plate which might be worth checking out, but it’s really strange that those two options you’ve already tried didn’t work. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488609-REG/tilta_db_lpe6_ptap_canon_lp_e6_dummy_battery.html
@@SamLucas26 that’s all good appreciate your help. Used the tilta dummy battery that came with the battery plate via DC as well as a tilta direct to P TAP. is it possibly because the battery door is still open? Does it need a hole drilled to allow the cable out and the door needs to be closed?
Oh yeah, the camera definitely won’t turn on with the battery door open. I wouldn’t recommend drilling a hole if you don’t have to. If you’re on an EOSr there should be a little plastic piece on the inside edge of the grip that pops out, specifically to allow the dummy battery cable to route through it with the battery door closed
So I actually do have access to the screen. Before attaching the battery I fold the screen out to the side and then I lay it flat against the side of the rig once it’s set up. But even if that wasn’t the case, I have all my settings I need during shooting mapped to buttons and dials and I can see what I’m selecting on the top LCD. So I very rarely need to see the rear screen while shooting with this rig
Great video just a tip maybe place the mic in a position that won't cover most the frame next time. Coming from the right side of of the frame, your left would've made it easier for us to see the rig setup. Anyways, stoked to rig my R5 out thanks for the help. Cheers mate!
Thanks for the feedback, friend! Yeah, it was something I thought of after the fact too. The main point of that shot wasn’t to show off the camera in a lot of detail so I decided to roll with it instead of switch my setup and re-film because I had the b-roll too. But definitely in the future, I’m making sure not to have the same problem haha. Thanks for watching 🙏🏼
Thanks for watching Harry! I shoot on the sigma 18-35 f/1.8 art lens with this rig a lot. The wide angle helps with the crop factor of the 4K on the R. But if I’m not running the follow focus on the rig and don’t have to worry about resetting the in/out points every time I change lenses, I bounce between the 18-35, the canon EF 50mm 1.2L, the EF 85mm 1.4L is, and the EF 135mm f/2L. I shoot mostly primes (the only zoom lens I own is the 18-35) so I find myself switching lenses a lot.
Thanks a ton! I use a D tap to micro usb to power the motor. Tilta makes it and you can just find it by searching B&H or anywhere that sells tilta products. Thanks for watching friend!
Thanks a ton for watching man! I’m gonna paste a comment that has the links and explanation of the cabling I use to power this rig! Let me know if you have any questions!!! : “The power cables actually came with the battery plate that I used for the rig. I’ll link the plate as well but these are all the cables: Camera: 8V 5.5/2.1mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) coupled to to a Canon LP-E6 dummy battery (comes with battery plate). Monitor: 12V 5.5/2.5mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) into the atomos battery eliminator (comes with atomos ninja v) Follow focus motor is a simple tilta D tap to micro USB cable (buy separate) And the follow focus controller is a regular USB to micro USB cable Battery plate with cables: amzn.to/3nYepM9 Atomos battery eliminator: amzn.to/39NloTf Tilta D tap to micro usb: amzn.to/3sDDLCs “
Yeah, you totally could. The v Mount plate that I use swivels. So you could easily month it on the rails and swivel it so that it’s facing downwards and mount the battery underneath. I don’t really need access to the on board camera monitor all that much because I’m manually focusing and using the atomos as my monitor which is why I just have the camera display out to the side sitting flush with the battery but that’s just how I shoot. You can totally mount the battery underneath for how you shoot.
@@mathew896 Sure thing, bro! What's your instagram handle??? I'd love to follow you and see what you end up building if you go with a rig like this! I've enjoyed seeing all the variations that people have come up with by watching this video
Hey Edgar so I’m using the dummy battery that comes with the V Mount plate and it plus into the 8V DC plug on the battery plate. This is the battery plate and the cabling you need and the dummy battery come with it. Hope this helps! amzn.to/3E3jRGR
Hi Sam, I was hoping you could fill me in on what dummy battery you are using. The only info I could find on powering externally mentioned using the Canon DR-E6 DC Coupler used in conjunction with a compatible AC adapter. Other than that people seemed to be frying their cameras due to unregulated cords. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks for the video.
Hey Maddison, thanks so much for checking out my video. Yeah, I'm pretty picky when it comes to powering accessories. For smaller rigs like this, I basically only trust Tilta. I've never heard of anybody frying their camera, but I've definitely heard of janky, third party accessories not working. So like I said, I only use tilta products and I never buy accessories like this off of amazon because there's a pretty serious counterfeit problem with stuff like this on amazon, for some reason. With that said, here is the exact products that I use for powering this camera rig, if you buy the whole v mount plate. It actually comes with the dummy battery and cabling that you need to power the camera and multiple accessories. But if you just want the dummy battery by itself, I'll link that as well. Thanks again! www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1413364-REG/tilta_bt_003_v_dslr_power_supply_system.html Here's the dummy battery and cable you would need to connect the dummy battery to a v-mount plate, or any 8V DC power output dummy battery: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488607-REG/tilta_db_lpe6_dcf25_canon_lp_e6_dummy_battery.html DC Power cable: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1490890-REG/tilta_tcb_dcm21_dcm21_5_5_2_1mm_dc_male_to.html/overview
Thanks a ton David 🙏🏼 I really appreciate the love. No you can’t do touch focus with the ninja v. The hdmi connection cant actually communicate that kind of information back to the camera. You can rig up a similar rig to this though where you just have the cameras touch screen flipped out and use it to focus if that’s what you want to do. I just don’t do it because I prefer to manual focus anyways and the monitor is more protected being folded in like this but you could certainly do it if you wanted
Hey Andy, yes, I am referring to the color depth but with this camera, the codec actually does change. The color depth in and of itself doesn’t require the codec to change but the internal H.264 codec is 8 bit and the 10 bit color is only available when recording externally to something like a ProRes or DNX codec. So, you are completely correct that the 8 bit vs 10 bit in and of themselves aren’t codecs. But with this camera, in order to access those different bit depths you actually do have to use a different codec. Thanks for the comment, friend!
Hey Angelica, thanks for watching! So I use the tilta dummy battery. It actually comes included with the tilta battery plate that I have linked in the description!
Great vid Sam! Do you know yet whether the Smallrig Cage: @t will definitely fit the R5 as well? Just about to pick one up but they're listed as EOS R cages so thought I'd see whether you've bolted it to your R5 yet? Cheers
Thanks a ton Joel! I really appreciate that. And no, this particular cage in this video won't fit the R5, just the R. These cages are pretty form fit depending on the model that you have. I'll link to the small rig cage for the R5 here for you though. But there's several others from makers like Kondor Blue and 8sinn. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1583500-REG/smallrig_2982_camera_cage_for_canon.html
Sam Lucas Thanks a bunch man, I found this out the hard way today when the one I ordered arrived. I nearly fits it’s just actually the bottom mounting screw isn’t quite in the right spot. The R5 itself fits inside the cage though. Could modify to mount it
Thanks for watching Lucash! Much appreciated! They charge on a dedicated v mount charger. I have the x2 dual charger from core swx, it’s this one here (amzn.to/3iSmVwO). I like it. It’s built well and charges fast. There’s some D-tap chargers too but I’ve never used them. They just don’t seem like a great solution. Full disclosure, that link is an affiliate link. Thanks again for watching, friend!
Thanks so much, Charlie! I always love hearing that these videos are helpful to people. Thanks for checking it out! Let me know when your rig gets done. Would love to check it out!!!
Hey Hunter, thanks for watching! 🙏🏼 Nope, zoom shouldn’t be limited at all. The 18-35 f/1.8 is an internal zoom lens so it doesn’t move at all when you zoom. But even other telescoping zoom lenses, the focus ring typically would stay in the same place. (I hope this answers your question. I think that’s what you were asking. If not just let me know! ✌🏼)
It definitely depends on the scenario lol, and I'm a self-diagnosed bag addict so I have, admittedly, too many options. But I'll link a few of my favorites here. I use the amzn.to/3Szza0j cineluxe bag to transport cinema camera rigs that are built. These bags are AWESOME. I use the 24 for my C300iii rig but they make a couple different sizes. The 21 hightop would probably work really well with the rig in this video I use Nanuk hard cases if I need to break my rigs down and travel with them. While I'm shooting I use a really sweet little ONA Bowery leather bag that's just big enough for an extra V mount or two, a lens, and some backup cards. And those are really my main bags that I use with my cinema cam builds. Here's the links if you're interested in checking any of them out: 1.) Tenba Cineluxe 21 Hightop: amzn.to/3dRob3z 2.)Tenba Cineluxe 24: amzn.to/3dRob3z 3.) Nanuk hard case (Small): amzn.to/3Szza0j 4.) Nanuk hard Case (Large): amzn.to/3CeLP3G 5.) ONA Bowery leather bag: amzn.to/3raMZXm
@@ericgrayphoto Yeah, they're seriously so good. That's definitely the bag that gets the most use for me. I really only use the Nanuk if I'm flying and need to know everything is going to be really safe and protected. But if I'm traveling in a car, to and from shoots, locally, over the road, whatever it is, that Tenba bag is SOOOO convenient being able to carry my rig already built and ready to grab and go.
Hey mate, good stuff! Will be rigging out the R5 when I receive. Quick question, how do you find the drop in filter? Is it pretty stable or do you find it changes easily?
Awesome! I think you’ll really enjoy the rig! No, I’ve never had that problem before but it’s not the stiffest wheel so I could definitely see why you might have that fear. But it’s always stayed right where I’ve put it. I could see it being easy to bump if it weren’t in a rig like this, but this rig kind of tucks it away and keeps it protected so my hand never goes near it unless I’m intentionally changing it
Hello I’m looking for clarification. What dummy battery are you using to power up the Atomos Ninja V. I want to centralize power and I love using the v mount battery.
Hey Michael. Thanks for watching! I’m not actually using a dummy battery it’s the atomos battery eliminator, I’ll link it below. And then I power it with the 12V output from the tilta battery plate! www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493126-REG/atomos_atomdca001_atomx_battery_eliminator.html
Hey friend! Thanks for watching! This is the monitor mount that I use in this rig: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1439570-REG/8sinn_8_mh_cold_sm_monitor_holder_cold_shoe.html Find me on Instagram wham_bam_samlucas and show me your rig when you get it done!!! I’d love to see it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
If you order the battery plate it comes with the cables you need but here are the individual power cables for each part of the rig: Camera dummy battery: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488601-REG/tilta_db_dc_lpe6_m_dc_dummy_battery.html Monitor dummy battery: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493126-REG/atomos_atomdca001_atomx_battery_eliminator.html Monitor battery eliminator: www.adorama.com/iatcb25dcm30.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQiurP5KD_84bLLrWaNmcmz3TtN0lLeu3divzU4uMi7yYZ9RVECqiMw4aAkB-EALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQiurP5KD_84bLLrWaNmcmz3TtN0lLeu3divzU4uMi7yYZ9RVECqiMw4aAkB-EALw_wcB& Follow focus motor power cable: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1442807-REG/tilta_wlc_t04_pc_ptap_micro_usb_to_ptap.html
You would need a different cage that fits the battery grip but the rest of the rig would work with the battery grip. That’s the beauty of a rail system is that it can be pretty much universal. I do have the battery grip that I use when shooting photos but on this rig I take it off to save some weight since I’m using the v mount battery to power the camera anyways!
@@SamLucas26 yea that’s been my problem when looking to create a rig for my EOS R. I have the battery grip cause I do a lot of video and need the juice. But all the rigs that people are making are w/o the grip
@@coachced2079 For sure. Like I said though, if you get a cage to match your camera, everything will work perfectly fine. Smallrig makes a universal cage that is made to fit pro size DSLR's like the 1dx and that would work perfect for you with the battery grip and then every other piece in the rig just bolts on no issues!
Thanks, bro! Had fun messing around with a little stop motion. Yeah, I’m glad to be back in my normal shooting space where I can really work the colors the way I like. Thanks for the love, homie 🤙🏼
Yeah, it was a little fast. I did it 24 FPS, probably should’ve gone done to 20 or even 15 to get that real claymation stop motion look. But hey, lesson learned haha
Thanks man! This video was so helpful! I’m investing in the R6 and will use this setup to rig it out! Do you have links to the cables you used to power everything? I already did a trial run and got the wrong sizes😅
Haha, yeah man, it’s a pain getting it right! I’ll try and lay it out as best I can, hope it helps! The power cables actually came with the battery plate that I used for the rig. I’ll link the plate as well but these are all the cables: Camera: 8V 5.5/2.1mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) coupled to to a Canon LP-E6 dummy battery (comes with battery plate). Monitor: 12V 5.5/2.5mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) into the atomos battery eliminator (comes with atomos ninja v) Follow focus motor is a simple tilta D tap to micro USB cable (buy separate) And the follow focus controller is a regular USB to micro USB cable Battery plate with cables: amzn.to/3nYepM9 Atomos battery eliminator: amzn.to/39NloTf Tilta D tap to micro usb: amzn.to/3sDDLCs
Haha, I feel you man! When you start rigging out cameras, you start to understand that there are entire positions dedicated to building cameras and knowing these things on set haha
Hey man, I don't know if you picked up the parts you were looking at yet or not, but I just wanted to let you know that I just updated the links that I posted. I didn't realize that some of my affiliate links had expired and listings had changed, so I just updated them all. Thanks man! Looking forward to seeing you around the channel!
Yooo, thanks for watching, my guy! Yeah, here’s what I use to mount the microphone. I basically just run a short, 6 inch, 15mm rod through the smallrig handle. It has a mounting point for a 15mm rod. And then I put this 15mm cold shoe clamp on there and it let’s me mount a rode video mic on there! Hope this helps 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼 www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1421787-REG/smallrig_1157_cold_shoe_rail_clamp.html
Thanks for watching, friend! The r6 doesn’t shoot exclusively to an external drive via USB the way something like the black magic pocket cinema cameras do if that’s what you mean. You would definitely need to go the external recorder route like the ninja v or similar HDMI recorders. But it definitely solves the overheating concerns and bypasses the record limit altogether. It’s for sure my favorite way to use these mirrorless cameras is to record to an external recorder like the atomos. Especially now that the ninja v+ can record ProRes raw, so if your camera can output raw you get to maintain that flexibility.
Hi! Do you use the record button on the R or do you press record on the ninja v only? Or do you use the hdmi sync? I am asking because of the handling of this rig... Does the R require to be set in record mode or is pressing record on the ninja enough? Thanks!
Thanks for checking out the vid! I use HDMI sync so that I can either press record on the camera or on the ninja in order to trigger recording to the ninja. But basically you can configure it any way you want to use it. If you want to use the camera to trigger recording, you can or if you want to use the ninja to trigger recording, you can do that too
I’ve never tried to record anything on the ninja when not in record mode. For instance, I’m not sure if you can record the EVF output when shooting in stills mode. That’s something I’ll have to look in to! I know Jared Polin does this a lot where he records the EVF to an atomos while shooting stills but I don’t know if he’s covered it with the EOSr or not.
Hi, and thanks for your quick reply! I did not mean the stills mode... if you put the R in video mode, set aperture, iso and everything else as desired - and then press record on the ninja without syncing...the ninja is definitely recording. But i am not sure if the result is the same... Another thing I found out, that if I put the R not in 10bit mode, but in 8 bit mode, to be able to choose another framerate (10 bit is just possible in 24/25fps) then the hdmi sync is not working...i am not sure why!? Any ideas? At the end this was the reason for my initial question... Because kust in 8bit more then 24/25fps are possible... Thanks for your help!
@@andreassaerdnafly got it! Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, I’ve had to go in and set hdmi sync both in 10 bit and 8 bit mode. Not sure why. It’s a weird software thing with this particular camera. But that’s what it is. The way I shoot with this camera is always in 10bit at 24p anyways so it doesn’t really affect me because I’m not switching between 10bit or 8bit. But regardless, if you hit record on the ninja, it’s recording, and the result is the same. All hdmi sync does is enable you to trigger recording on the ninja by pressing the record button on the camera. But how you triggered the recording doesn’t affect the end result
Oh! Thanks...thats what I needed! I did not try to turn hdmi sync on a second time in 8bit! Dont ask why ;-) But its interesting that the result is the same even without sync and just recording on the ninja... Maybe the controls of the autofokus may be behave differently if the R is not in record state...i will try. But at the end its not that important. Thanks for now!
Haha, that was intentional 😂 Although the lesson was learned haha. Thankfully the detail shots in the B-roll fill in the gaps so you can see the rig! Thanks for watching, friend!!!
Loved the video, hate the mic! The mic was in the way of really being able to see the camera the whole time as I wished I would of been able to. But again great set up and video
Thanks Gary! I really appreciate it. Yeah, the whole mic blocking the camera thing was definitely an error on my part, haha. I realized it after the whole thing was shot and just decided to roll with it. Hoping the B-roll gave you an opportunity to see the rig, unobstructed! Thanks a ton for watching, man!
Hi Sam, could you add or link descriptions of your cabling? Your rig system is nice and tidy. The cable length and perhaps even links to them would be incredibly helpful! Like your content, subbed.
Yo, thanks for watching and subbing, Garret. I really appreciate it! So, almost all of the cables that you need actually come with the V mount plate. So if you order the exact v mount plate that I use you'll get the Canon dummy battery and 8V DC cable to connect that to the battery plate. You'll get the 12V DC cable to connect to the monitor. And the you get an extra 12V DC cable for any additional accessory too. But I'll link everything that I use and any additional cables that don't come with the battery plate as well. Full disclosure, these will be affiliate links. Thanks again for watching man! Tilta V mount Plate: amzn.to/3kIRh4B (This plate includes the 12V cable to connect the atomos monitor, the dummy battery and 8V cable to connect to the camera, and an additional 12V DC cable for an additional accessory) Atomos battery eliminator: amzn.to/3DO7MFx (This just slots into the NPF slot on the atomos and receives the 12V DC cable from the battery plate) D-Tap to micro USB: amzn.to/3BNgqCn (This connects the battery plate to the follow focus motor) USB to micro USB: amzn.to/3jAQe7y (This connects the follow focus controller to the v mount battery) Thanks again, man. I hope this helps!
Hey Colin! Thanks for watching! Here’s the rod mount I used for the follow focus wheel www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1490039-REG/tilta_wlc_t04_hwc_15_nucleus_nano_hand_wheel_15mm.html
Niceee video! how did you do that build at the beginning ? And how do you shoot 1080P 23.98 on the atomos? mine only output 1080p 60 and it will output 4k 24 and 30p.
Thanks man! I really appreciate that! The build at the beginning was a stop motion. So I literally set a camera on a tripod, snapped an image, then moved the scene a tiny little bit and snapped a new image and did that all through the build. So I ended up with a bunch of still images that I took into fcpx and made every image last 1/18 of a second. So I basically made an 18 FPS stop motion clip from the rig build. I should make a video on that process now that I think about it haha
And for outputting 1080 at 23.98p or 24p, if your camera is set to record 1080 24p and you’re recording on the atomos, regardless of what the atomos says, it’s recording what the camera is set at. It’s kind of annoying but the atomos isn’t actually interpreting the footage as anything other than what the camera is set at. So even if the atomos says “1080, 60p”, it’s saying that your monitoring in 60p but as long as your camera is set to 23.98, that’s what the atomos is recording. So just remember that the resolution and frame rate that your camera is set at is what the atomos is recording
@@SamLucas26 whenever I record the atomos file metadata still say 60 FPS in Resolve. But if I record 4K the atomos say 4K and the file metadata say 4K.
Yeah, for one I didn’t really mean to, haha. Definitely making sure I don’t do it again. But I also figured that the B-roll would be where you can check out the rig more so than the a-roll shot
Just wanted to let you know that I just went and updated all the links if you were looking at something particular. Thanks again for the heads up, friend!
I don’t know yet but I doubt it, honestly. I know current HDMI standards cap at 4K 60p (I think), so definitely not for anything about that. But again, I’m not sure. I think the best results will probably be internal recording. Like I said, I’m swapping the ninja out for my shinobi monitor for the r5.
A weird choice they went with on the r5 is that it actually has a micro hdmi output. Which makes me nervous too for running a monitor. It’s the one thing that I wish they would have kept the mini HDMI for the EOS r
Couldn't really see the camera rig properly due to a lack of light and the mic completely dominating the shot. Thanks for listing the components though
Man, thank you! I appreciate that so much. Yeah, so the 12V cable for powering the monitor is just a tilta 12V 5.5/2.5mm male to male DC power cable hooked up to the atomos battery eliminator on the ninja v. I’ll link them here in this comment. Thanks for watching and subbing, friend! Much appreciated. Atomos Battery Eliminator: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493126-REG/atomos_atomdca001_atomx_battery_eliminator.html?sts=pi&pim=Y 12V barrel cable: www.adorama.com/iatcb25dcm25.html
@@vo.images Man, always! connecting with people and getting to have conversations in the comments is the reason I create TH-cam videos. Glad you reached out!
@@SamLucas26 You very welcome brother ! 🎥💥 keep going !! If You have a moment pls stop by to my youtube channel “Optical Power” let me know what do you think 💭 I would love to have your advice Thanks ! Kader.
Yo thanks for watching and subbing, man! So the Canon dummy battery and the DC power cable for the monitor actually come with the V mount plate. But I'll link all the cables I use in this rig here for you if you want to check them out. Tilta V mount Plate: amzn.to/3AWMPpC (This plate includes the 12V cable to connect the atomos monitor, the dummy battery, and 8V cable to connect to the camera, and an additional 12V DC cable for an additional accessory) Atomos Battery eliminator: amzn.to/3sAoaUS (this adaptor just slots into the NPF battery slot on the atomos and has a DC barrel connector to receive the power cable) D tap to micro USB: amzn.to/3gcEqq3 (I use this to power the follow focus motor. It's nice to power it via d-tap because you get extra torque out of the motor with the higher voltage vs. USB power) Simple USB to micro USB: amzn.to/2Uv9QAc (I use this to power the follow focus controller) Hope this helps!
@@thedailydosage8360 haha, heck yeah man! I try to respond to every comment! Dude, one of my second shooters built his r5 with this rig and it’s an absolute monster. Such a sweet rig! You’ll be stoked on it 🤘🏼
Are you guys looking to pick up an EOS R5? I can't wait to get my hands on one and see how it pairs to the c300 mark iii. These cameras were made for each other!
nice setup mate. I have one question. How do you package the rig when you go to a client?
@Gianni Tahitu thanks a ton Gianni!!!
I use porta brace or arco bags like this one to transport cameras assembled if I need to!
amzn.to/3nRxNdz
@@SamLucas26 Thanks bro! I've just order almost the same setup yesterday after seeing your video. Keep it up!
@@giannitahitu heck yeah!!! Find me on Instagram @wham_bam_samlucas and show me your rig when it’s done! I’d love to see how it turns out, dude!
I remember watching this video of yours.. I have a similar set-up with a Canon R6 and this video helped alot when I was building out my rig at the time.. I use a SmallRig VB99 and connect directly to my camera via USB-C. I can easily get a few hours of shooting no problem. I also have a 12 Volt cable going to my monitor. Simple and clean set-up. I have a spare V-mount battery and I can comfortably shoot all day and not have to worry about my battery levels..
Man, comments like this are why making videos like this are so cool.
I love helping people explore and find the build that works best for them!!!
Yeah switching to v mount power when I was on mirrorless was game changing. Not having to manage all the different battery types really changed how I planned a shoot
Super nice intro! Great video! 🙏
Thanks so much, Jade! I really appreciate it 🙏🏼
I know im late,, i just picked upp the eos R and love it! cant wait to deck it out, im coming from an m50 crop sensor . smh, lol ,good video, love the stop motion! great technique!
Man, you’re gonna love it! It’s still such an underrated camera! I was shooting a multicam project yesterday with a c300 mark iii and a 1DX mark iii and still had a pair of EOSr’s on the shoot that I’ll have no problem matching the footage to the other cams.
Thanks for checking out the vid, friend! 🤘🏼
The stop motion was dope.
Thanks so much, Abraham! I really appreciate the love 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Ya that must’ve took longer than the whole video
Why are you so underrated????
Haha, I appreciate that, friend!!!!
Awesome video mate, any chance of links/info on the cables you used specifically?
Forget that, found the info below - thanks
Haha, right on! Saved me a bunch of time because I was about to link them all 😂
Thanks for watching, friend! Much appreciated!!!
Thanks Sam, just looking at picking up an R5 or R6. I'm coming from being a stills guy with an 5Dmk4, which..... Was not a great video platform. But with that, I want to get into some moderately serious video with the unit, and i was looking at how to kit it up. I was already giving some thought to how to power all the doodads. Very helpful. Also very interested in the shared knowledge of your storytelling. Subscribed.
Much appreciated Blair! Glad I could offer some inspiration for your upcoming rig build!
Be sure to hit me up if you have any questions. I always love hearing how people build their rigs out to fit how they plan to use it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks for this video, you give a great explanation for all your choices, and it's clear that you've been using this setup a lot so you can speak from experience. One question I have (and I know this video is two years old now, but I'm still living in hope that you'll see this and answer 😅) is why did you decide to use a wireless follow focus system, when using a manual follow focus would appear to work the same, but with less complexity. What I mean is, with the wireless controller being so close to the lens already in this configuration, could it not be replaced with something like the Tilta Pocket Follow Focus? Or is there something I'm missing? Thanks!
Hey Colin, thanks for checking out the video! I really appreciate it. Hard to believe it’s been 2 years since I made this.
You’re absolutely right, you could 100% use a manual follow focus. I went with the wireless when building this rig because at the time (and even more so now), I do have an off camera focus puller. So it was just a little more versatile to have the wireless system so that I could pull the controller off and give it to my focus puller when that was needed.
But if you’re a solo camera op, I would definitely just put a manual follow focus on there and save yourself some frustration in terms of powering and connection concerns.
@@SamLucas26 Thank you so much for taking the time to reply! Great, that makes sense. I wasn't sure if there was some other reason, like if you found the manual version couldn't correctly fit at the same angle, or introduced more camera shake.
Thanks again, I really appreciate you sharing your experience!
@@colinjudge1261 yeah, absolutely. And honestly, the tilta connection is really solid but there were a handful of times that it did have some connection issues that slowed a shoot down and in those times, I did wish for a manual follow focus.
Less to go wrong for sure!
@@SamLucas26 Probably worth it overall though to go with wireless, as apart from being able to hand-off to a focus puller, it also makes it easier to set up in different configurations, like shoulder rig, or on a gimbal. Cheers for your insight!
Yo this was a dope video man! Loved every second of it!
Thanks so much, brother!!! I really appreciate the love 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
the quality is good, the sound and the video editing both are clean you deserve more subscribers
Thanks so much! I appreciate the love 🙏🏼
@@SamLucas26 I agree, but I stopped watching this particular video when he said the camera body and the atomos are the only responsible (with enfasis) for the image quality, when the truth, the image quality is given vastly by the lens.
@@JavierMadinabeitia
Correct. But that goes without saying. I was referring to accessories. The reason I mentioned the camera body and atomos is because the atomos actually pulls additional image quality out of this particular camera body (not all bodies) where as none of the other accessories do that.
Hi Sam, I have a Canon T5i and I would like to build a good rig. Please let me know how can I do it. There is no cage for this camera. Please help me make one just like the one on this video!!!!!
Hey Jorge, thanks so much for checking out the video! The first place I would start with is the cage. You've got to find a good cage that fits your camera and that serves as the foundation to build your rig off of. You may not find a custom fit one for the t5i but they make universal ones that will probably work pretty well for you. Then I would get a top handle and a monitor. From there, I would find a baseplate and rod solution. The one I linked to in the description that I use in this video is a great, universal, solution.
Then from there it's just a matter of figuring out what accessories you need? Do you need a lens support, or a follow focus? Do you need V mount power on the back? And just let what you actually need inform how you build the rig. Don't buy all kinds of accessories that you don't need in order to just build a bigger camera rig.
But like I said, start with the cage, then maybe a top handle and external monitor if you need it and your camera has the capabilities. And then move to the rods and any additional accessories that you might need after that.
Thanks again, friend. I hope this helps!
I'm in the process of building my rig or my R5. I've been freehanding it for thepast couple months now and it does a great job with the IBIS. Can't wait to make this camera even better.
Right on brother!
Yeah, a rig like this just takes it to the next level. Your camera essentially becomes a sensor donor but it becomes so much more practical to use!
Glad you got a little inspiration for your rig from this video 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@SamLucas26 where on the tilta v mount plate do you plug the R5 dummy battery into... the tilta plate says 8v and ive seen elsewhere that youre supposed to plug it into a 7.2v....
@@edgarmelero7079 Yeah, it still goes in the 8V slot. The dummy battery buffers the power to give you the correct powering for the camera. It’s definitely a little confusing though
Hey brother ! What cable are you using from the VMount into camera ? Do you have a link ?
Hey man, thank so much for checking out the video!
So the canon dummy battery and cable that I use to tap into the v mount plate actually ships with the v mount plate. Tilta is pretty good about including cabling with their products. The battery plate actually included the cabling I needed to power both the camera and the monitor so it’s pretty convenient. So I’ll link that here if you want to pick up the whole battery plate and then I’ll also link a dummy battery option by itself in case you don’t want to buy the whole plate and everything and just want the dummy battery and cable.
Battery plate w/cables:
amzn.to/3KwatNW
Dummy battery to PTAP/DTAP:
amzn.to/3Fgbysb
Thanks Sam! This helped me a lot as I am trying to rig up my R5 and a newb at this stuff!
Heck yeah! I just helped a buddy build this exact rig for his R5 and it turned out so awesome. Even now, I have my c300 mark iii and a 1DX mark iii and I still love shooting with this little rig on the EOSr. You won't be disappointed!!!
@@SamLucas26 pretty pumped. Should be getting the gear from Amazon tomorrow. Now if I can figure out the puzzle and put it all together 🤔
@@Distphoto haha, yeah it’s all like an erector set lol. I went through probably a dozen iterations before I settled on the one I liked lol
Just checking you out I like your explanation of this rigged out R5 gave me a great outline for my Canon R just purchased. Good job thanks
Heck yeah! That’s awesome man! Would love to see your rig when you get it done. Hit me up on Instagram or something so that I can see it!!!
Thanks for the information! I’m inspired. I’m still waiting on my R5, but when it comes in, I will follow these steps.
Right on! I’m glad it helped you out friend!
I think a rig like this will do so well with the R5, it’ll be a super capable setup 👌🏼
Happy rigging, friend 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
what type of cable connector did you use to connect from your v-mount battery to camera?
Hey Anthony, thanks for checking out my videos, man!
That dummy battery actually comes with the battery plate if you order the same one as I use. But here’s a link to just the dummy battery as well that works with battery plate
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488601-REG/tilta_db_dc_lpe6_m_dc_dummy_battery.html
Hello what do you use to Power the camera with the vmount battery? Greetings
Hey Thomas, thanks a ton for watching, friend! Are you asking about the cables? I use a dummy battery that goes into the camera and connects via 8V DC to the battery plate. It actually ships with the battery plate. I’ll link it here (full disclosure, it is an affiliate link) if you want to check it out
amzn.to/3mhpmeF
So I have nearly an identical setup. I was wondering my monitor has an 8v port meaning the the titla battery plate doesn't have it's 8v port available for the dummy battery coming from the r5 camera... i was hoping to power the monitor and camera via the v mount. concerned about swapping the cameras dummy battery to the d tap input in the titla battery plate for example. don't want to fry the camera but then don't want to have 800 dollars worth of v mount batteries to power a 300 dollar monitor only. i assume your ninja doesnt use the 8v out of the tilta battery plate?
Yeah, the ninja powers via the 12V output. But the beauty of the dummy battery in the camera is that it buffers the power going into the camera to make sure you’re getting the correct voltage so you’ll definitely be good running d tap power to the camera with the dummy battery without worrying about damaging the camera because the dummy battery will convert whatever the input source is to the needed voltage for the camera.
So a cable like this would do it for you
amzn.to/3hf6M3d
@@SamLucas26 legend thank you
Sure thing, friend! Thanks for watching!
Great video Sam Very well explained
Thanks so much, Steve! I really appreciate your kind words 🙏🏼
So, I rock the blackmagic cinema 4k and typically run just BRAW. I use to use canon cameras and stuff but I couldn't imagine going back HOWEVER, how do you like the prores in a professional setting? Is it quick in the timeline? Are settings baked in?
Yeah, ProRes is great, it’s industry standard for both flexibility and manageable file size. There’s more Hollywood films shot on prores out of ARRI than there is in raw which obviously speaks to its feasibility as a codec.
Editing software is optimized for ProRes too so it actually edits smoother than just about anything else you can shoot in. In fact, I’ll often transcode the raw out of my c200 and C300 mark iii into prores before editing. Settings are baked in with prores but it’s still really flexible and doesn’t crush the dynamic range or color depth.
Is there a shoulder mount you recommend for this setup?
Hey Reko, thanks for watching!
In general my favorite shoulder rig is the Bright Tangerine Kasbah. But the Polar Pro Pivot looks really incredible too. I’ve never used it but it’s about half the price and I’ve used a lot of polar pro products and never had anything bad to say so I thinks it’s a solid option too.
Does the microphone pickup the autofocus motor on the R5? Can you do that test
Hey Stephen, thanks for checking out the video!
That really depends on the lens you’re using. Some lenses are just louder than others. But what I can tell you using this rig, exactly like this, on both the EOSr and the R5, using both EF and RF L series glass, I’ve never heard the autofocus motors in any of my work, ever.
Now, I do usually record audio externally. I’m typically only using the on camera audio as scratch, or as a backup in case there’s issues, but I’ve never had an issue with any of my lenses and this is my list of lenses that I own just for reference:
Sigma art EF 18-35 f/1.8
Sigma art EF 20mm f/1.4
Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L ii
Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L
Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L
Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L is
Canon RF 70-200 f/2.8L
Sam--are you using the Atomos V+ ? I was hoping you would do a "setup" video with R5
I haven’t switched over to the V+ yet but it’s such a great recorder so it will probably happen soon!
My r5 setup is actually the same as this rig just with right cage for the r5 vs the r.
Thanks for watching, friend 🙏🏼
Awesome video.
Thanks Mo!!! I really appreciate it 🙏🏼
@@SamLucas26 thank you for all the work you put in.
@@MoChev20 absolutely! It’s all so I can interact with awesome people like you 🤙🏼
I bought the Canon R5 and it's far better than my Canon 5D Mk IV. One thing I love about the R 5 is head & eye tracking. When it comes to video and photography that is a big plus. One thing also I hate about Canon is they banned all 3rd party manufacturers from producing RF lenses for the R5.
Yeah, the autofocus performance is the single greatest argument for mirrorless cameras imo. I mean there’s definitely other benefits but the improved autofocus performance is definitely a huge one!
Yeah, on one hand, it’s definitely frustrating to not have other lens options but I also understand it to a degree. When these companies spend a lot of time and effort creating cameras to produce a certain image quality, to potentially have that image quality wrecked by shoddy third party lenses where a potential consumer base will associate that image quality with the camera it was shot in more so than the lens, I can understand it to a degree.
I wouldn’t be surprised though if we eventually see sigma RF lenses. I think manufacturers will have to meet a certain quality standard but as time goes on I think we’ll see third party RF options from the more reputable third party brands like sigma and tamron.
Hey Sam so bought an extension cable to convert the tilta dummy battery DC to DTAP and also tried it with the tilta dummy direct with DC to the battery plate, neither will power any of my canon cameras? is there some trick that I'm missing?
Sorry about that, man! No, that sounds like it should be working. I’ve actually powered my camera both of those ways, myself.
Here’s tilta’s official dummy battery to work with that battery plate which might be worth checking out, but it’s really strange that those two options you’ve already tried didn’t work.
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488609-REG/tilta_db_lpe6_ptap_canon_lp_e6_dummy_battery.html
@@SamLucas26 that’s all good appreciate your help. Used the tilta dummy battery that came with the battery plate via DC as well as a tilta direct to P TAP. is it possibly because the battery door is still open? Does it need a hole drilled to allow the cable out and the door needs to be closed?
Oh yeah, the camera definitely won’t turn on with the battery door open.
I wouldn’t recommend drilling a hole if you don’t have to. If you’re on an EOSr there should be a little plastic piece on the inside edge of the grip that pops out, specifically to allow the dummy battery cable to route through it with the battery door closed
@@SamLucas26 yes I see what you mean on the R5, obstructed from view because of the rig around it. Thanks again
Perfect! Yeah it’s definitely hidden up in there. But give that a try. Should solve your problem!
how do you change settings without access to touch screen?
So I actually do have access to the screen. Before attaching the battery I fold the screen out to the side and then I lay it flat against the side of the rig once it’s set up. But even if that wasn’t the case, I have all my settings I need during shooting mapped to buttons and dials and I can see what I’m selecting on the top LCD.
So I very rarely need to see the rear screen while shooting with this rig
Thank you. Great video!
Thanks for watching Tom! I appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Great video just a tip maybe place the mic in a position that won't cover most the frame next time. Coming from the right side of of the frame, your left would've made it easier for us to see the rig setup. Anyways, stoked to rig my R5 out thanks for the help. Cheers mate!
Thanks for the feedback, friend!
Yeah, it was something I thought of after the fact too. The main point of that shot wasn’t to show off the camera in a lot of detail so I decided to roll with it instead of switch my setup and re-film because I had the b-roll too.
But definitely in the future, I’m making sure not to have the same problem haha.
Thanks for watching 🙏🏼
what lenses do you find yourself using most with the system? thanks for the great info on your build
Thanks for watching Harry!
I shoot on the sigma 18-35 f/1.8 art lens with this rig a lot. The wide angle helps with the crop factor of the 4K on the R. But if I’m not running the follow focus on the rig and don’t have to worry about resetting the in/out points every time I change lenses, I bounce between the 18-35, the canon EF 50mm 1.2L, the EF 85mm 1.4L is, and the EF 135mm f/2L.
I shoot mostly primes (the only zoom lens I own is the 18-35) so I find myself switching lenses a lot.
What output on your tilta plate are you using to power your follow focus motor? Great video by the way. I’m building my R5 out the same way.
Thanks a ton!
I use a D tap to micro usb to power the motor. Tilta makes it and you can just find it by searching B&H or anywhere that sells tilta products.
Thanks for watching friend!
Good stuff. Looking to build an r5
Can you post the links to the battery cables?
Thanks a ton for watching man!
I’m gonna paste a comment that has the links and explanation of the cabling I use to power this rig! Let me know if you have any questions!!! :
“The power cables actually came with the battery plate that I used for the rig. I’ll link the plate as well but these are all the cables:
Camera: 8V 5.5/2.1mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) coupled to to a Canon LP-E6 dummy battery (comes with battery plate).
Monitor: 12V 5.5/2.5mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) into the atomos battery eliminator (comes with atomos ninja v)
Follow focus motor is a simple tilta D tap to micro USB cable (buy separate)
And the follow focus controller is a regular USB to micro USB cable
Battery plate with cables:
amzn.to/3nYepM9
Atomos battery eliminator:
amzn.to/39NloTf
Tilta D tap to micro usb:
amzn.to/3sDDLCs “
Is there a way to mount the battery on the bottom out if the way of the back screen?
Yeah, you totally could. The v Mount plate that I use swivels. So you could easily month it on the rails and swivel it so that it’s facing downwards and mount the battery underneath.
I don’t really need access to the on board camera monitor all that much because I’m manually focusing and using the atomos as my monitor which is why I just have the camera display out to the side sitting flush with the battery but that’s just how I shoot. You can totally mount the battery underneath for how you shoot.
@@SamLucas26 Awesome, Thanks man!
@@mathew896 Sure thing, bro! What's your instagram handle??? I'd love to follow you and see what you end up building if you go with a rig like this! I've enjoyed seeing all the variations that people have come up with by watching this video
@Sam Lucas, to what plug do you plug the EOS R/R5 too on the tilta v mount plate? and what cable/dummy battery are you using.
Hey Edgar so I’m using the dummy battery that comes with the V Mount plate and it plus into the 8V DC plug on the battery plate.
This is the battery plate and the cabling you need and the dummy battery come with it. Hope this helps!
amzn.to/3E3jRGR
Hi Sam, I was hoping you could fill me in on what dummy battery you are using. The only info I could find on powering externally mentioned using the Canon DR-E6 DC Coupler used in conjunction with a compatible AC adapter. Other than that people seemed to be frying their cameras due to unregulated cords.
Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks for the video.
Hey Maddison, thanks so much for checking out my video.
Yeah, I'm pretty picky when it comes to powering accessories. For smaller rigs like this, I basically only trust Tilta. I've never heard of anybody frying their camera, but I've definitely heard of janky, third party accessories not working. So like I said, I only use tilta products and I never buy accessories like this off of amazon because there's a pretty serious counterfeit problem with stuff like this on amazon, for some reason.
With that said, here is the exact products that I use for powering this camera rig, if you buy the whole v mount plate. It actually comes with the dummy battery and cabling that you need to power the camera and multiple accessories. But if you just want the dummy battery by itself, I'll link that as well.
Thanks again!
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1413364-REG/tilta_bt_003_v_dslr_power_supply_system.html
Here's the dummy battery and cable you would need to connect the dummy battery to a v-mount plate, or any 8V DC power output
dummy battery: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488607-REG/tilta_db_lpe6_dcf25_canon_lp_e6_dummy_battery.html
DC Power cable: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1490890-REG/tilta_tcb_dcm21_dcm21_5_5_2_1mm_dc_male_to.html/overview
Very cool RIG! Question, can i focus on the Ninja V with Touch? Because i don't want(i can't :D) to manual focusing...Thanks for the answer.
Thanks a ton David 🙏🏼
I really appreciate the love. No you can’t do touch focus with the ninja v. The hdmi connection cant actually communicate that kind of information back to the camera. You can rig up a similar rig to this though where you just have the cameras touch screen flipped out and use it to focus if that’s what you want to do.
I just don’t do it because I prefer to manual focus anyways and the monitor is more protected being folded in like this but you could certainly do it if you wanted
Quick comment on when you said 8 bit codec vs 10 bit codec. I think what you meant was color it depth and not codec as the codec does not change.
Hey Andy, yes, I am referring to the color depth but with this camera, the codec actually does change. The color depth in and of itself doesn’t require the codec to change but the internal H.264 codec is 8 bit and the 10 bit color is only available when recording externally to something like a ProRes or DNX codec. So, you are completely correct that the 8 bit vs 10 bit in and of themselves aren’t codecs. But with this camera, in order to access those different bit depths you actually do have to use a different codec.
Thanks for the comment, friend!
Which dummy battery do you use for the EOS R?
Hey Tabi, I use the one from tilta. This one ships with their Vmount battery plate, but they also sell it by itself as well
Currently buying things to rig out my camera
Love it! I would love to see your rig when it’s done!
Do you use any specific dummy battery to hook up into the vmount battery? I wanna know what's the right one that guarantees will not fry my eos r5 🥲
Hey Angelica, thanks for watching! So I use the tilta dummy battery. It actually comes included with the tilta battery plate that I have linked in the description!
Great vid Sam! Do you know yet whether the Smallrig Cage: @t will definitely fit the R5 as well? Just about to pick one up but they're listed as EOS R cages so thought I'd see whether you've bolted it to your R5 yet? Cheers
Thanks a ton Joel! I really appreciate that. And no, this particular cage in this video won't fit the R5, just the R. These cages are pretty form fit depending on the model that you have. I'll link to the small rig cage for the R5 here for you though. But there's several others from makers like Kondor Blue and 8sinn.
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1583500-REG/smallrig_2982_camera_cage_for_canon.html
Sam Lucas Thanks a bunch man, I found this out the hard way today when the one I ordered arrived. I nearly fits it’s just actually the bottom mounting screw isn’t quite in the right spot. The R5 itself fits inside the cage though. Could modify to mount it
joelomatic2000 yeah, for sure. They 1/4” 20 mount is always the thing that gets you haha. It’s different on every camera
how does one recharge the neo v mount batteries?
Thanks for watching Lucash! Much appreciated! They charge on a dedicated v mount charger. I have the x2 dual charger from core swx, it’s this one here (amzn.to/3iSmVwO).
I like it. It’s built well and charges fast. There’s some D-tap chargers too but I’ve never used them. They just don’t seem like a great solution.
Full disclosure, that link is an affiliate link. Thanks again for watching, friend!
@@SamLucas26 thanks Sam
Sure thing!!!
Making a list of all this. I can get a bit creative. I have a eos rebel 7
Right on! That’s the nice thing about a rig like this, as long as you get a cage that fits, everything else is universal!
love this vid! looking to build out my rig a little more and this gave me some great ideas!
Thanks so much, Charlie! I always love hearing that these videos are helpful to people.
Thanks for checking it out! Let me know when your rig gets done. Would love to check it out!!!
Are you limited to zoom with this rig?
Hey Hunter, thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
Nope, zoom shouldn’t be limited at all. The 18-35 f/1.8 is an internal zoom lens so it doesn’t move at all when you zoom. But even other telescoping zoom lenses, the focus ring typically would stay in the same place.
(I hope this answers your question. I think that’s what you were asking. If not just let me know! ✌🏼)
What bag do you use?
It definitely depends on the scenario lol, and I'm a self-diagnosed bag addict so I have, admittedly, too many options. But I'll link a few of my favorites here.
I use the amzn.to/3Szza0j cineluxe bag to transport cinema camera rigs that are built. These bags are AWESOME. I use the 24 for my C300iii rig but they make a couple different sizes. The 21 hightop would probably work really well with the rig in this video
I use Nanuk hard cases if I need to break my rigs down and travel with them.
While I'm shooting I use a really sweet little ONA Bowery leather bag that's just big enough for an extra V mount or two, a lens, and some backup cards.
And those are really my main bags that I use with my cinema cam builds. Here's the links if you're interested in checking any of them out:
1.) Tenba Cineluxe 21 Hightop: amzn.to/3dRob3z
2.)Tenba Cineluxe 24: amzn.to/3dRob3z
3.) Nanuk hard case (Small): amzn.to/3Szza0j
4.) Nanuk hard Case (Large): amzn.to/3CeLP3G
5.) ONA Bowery leather bag: amzn.to/3raMZXm
Those Tenba bags look perfect!
@@ericgrayphoto Yeah, they're seriously so good. That's definitely the bag that gets the most use for me. I really only use the Nanuk if I'm flying and need to know everything is going to be really safe and protected. But if I'm traveling in a car, to and from shoots, locally, over the road, whatever it is, that Tenba bag is SOOOO convenient being able to carry my rig already built and ready to grab and go.
Hey mate, good stuff! Will be rigging out the R5 when I receive. Quick question, how do you find the drop in filter? Is it pretty stable or do you find it changes easily?
Awesome! I think you’ll really enjoy the rig!
No, I’ve never had that problem before but it’s not the stiffest wheel so I could definitely see why you might have that fear. But it’s always stayed right where I’ve put it. I could see it being easy to bump if it weren’t in a rig like this, but this rig kind of tucks it away and keeps it protected so my hand never goes near it unless I’m intentionally changing it
Hello I’m looking for clarification. What dummy battery are you using to power up the Atomos Ninja V. I want to centralize power and I love using the v mount battery.
Hey Michael. Thanks for watching! I’m not actually using a dummy battery it’s the atomos battery eliminator, I’ll link it below. And then I power it with the 12V output from the tilta battery plate!
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493126-REG/atomos_atomdca001_atomx_battery_eliminator.html
Thanks a ton for watching, friend! I really appreciate it. Let me know if you have any other questions
@@SamLucas26 ok what the cable are you using from the battery eliminator to the the v mount?
It’s just a regular 12 volt 5.5/2.5mm barrel style power cable.
If you buy the same v Mount plate as I use, it comes with a couple.
What parts did you use to attach the Atomos V? You didn't mention in the video. I'm building the same rig for my R6.
Hey friend! Thanks for watching!
This is the monitor mount that I use in this rig:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1439570-REG/8sinn_8_mh_cold_sm_monitor_holder_cold_shoe.html
Find me on Instagram wham_bam_samlucas and show me your rig when you get it done!!! I’d love to see it 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@SamLucas26 thank you. I'll show you what I have.
What you used for cables? Missed that one.
If you order the battery plate it comes with the cables you need but here are the individual power cables for each part of the rig:
Camera dummy battery: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1488601-REG/tilta_db_dc_lpe6_m_dc_dummy_battery.html
Monitor dummy battery:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493126-REG/atomos_atomdca001_atomx_battery_eliminator.html
Monitor battery eliminator: www.adorama.com/iatcb25dcm30.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQiurP5KD_84bLLrWaNmcmz3TtN0lLeu3divzU4uMi7yYZ9RVECqiMw4aAkB-EALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQiurP5KD_84bLLrWaNmcmz3TtN0lLeu3divzU4uMi7yYZ9RVECqiMw4aAkB-EALw_wcB&
Follow focus motor power cable:
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1442807-REG/tilta_wlc_t04_pc_ptap_micro_usb_to_ptap.html
@@SamLucas26 bro I know this must have taken quite some time to relocate these. I am very grateful!
@@darlingtonjonesimagery9247 sure thing man! Glad I could help!!!
will this work with a battery grip?
You would need a different cage that fits the battery grip but the rest of the rig would work with the battery grip. That’s the beauty of a rail system is that it can be pretty much universal.
I do have the battery grip that I use when shooting photos but on this rig I take it off to save some weight since I’m using the v mount battery to power the camera anyways!
@@SamLucas26 yea that’s been my problem when looking to create a rig for my EOS R. I have the battery grip cause I do a lot of video and need the juice. But all the rigs that people are making are w/o the grip
@@coachced2079 For sure. Like I said though, if you get a cage to match your camera, everything will work perfectly fine. Smallrig makes a universal cage that is made to fit pro size DSLR's like the 1dx and that would work perfect for you with the battery grip and then every other piece in the rig just bolts on no issues!
@@SamLucas26 THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH FOR THE INFORMATION just ordered their large cage
@@coachced2079 yeah man! Sure thing!
Glad I could help
Dude, love the color palette in the video! Colors look great. Always love seeing camera rigs. And that b-roll was so sweeeet! Keep it up, bro!
Thanks, bro! Had fun messing around with a little stop motion.
Yeah, I’m glad to be back in my normal shooting space where I can really work the colors the way I like.
Thanks for the love, homie 🤙🏼
@@SamLucas26 I thought that was stop motion, but for some reason, I wasn't completely sure. Of course, bro! Can't wait for the storytelling videos
Yeah, it was a little fast. I did it 24 FPS, probably should’ve gone done to 20 or even 15 to get that real claymation stop motion look.
But hey, lesson learned haha
@@SamLucas26 nah, it was cool, bro. I was thinking of maybe you had a string pulling stuff and then masking it hahah
Hahaha, no, it’s much less cool than that 😂
Thanks man! This video was so helpful! I’m investing in the R6 and will use this setup to rig it out! Do you have links to the cables you used to power everything? I already did a trial run and got the wrong sizes😅
Haha, yeah man, it’s a pain getting it right! I’ll try and lay it out as best I can, hope it helps!
The power cables actually came with the battery plate that I used for the rig. I’ll link the plate as well but these are all the cables:
Camera: 8V 5.5/2.1mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) coupled to to a Canon LP-E6 dummy battery (comes with battery plate).
Monitor: 12V 5.5/2.5mm male to male barrel cable (comes with battery plate) into the atomos battery eliminator (comes with atomos ninja v)
Follow focus motor is a simple tilta D tap to micro USB cable (buy separate)
And the follow focus controller is a regular USB to micro USB cable
Battery plate with cables:
amzn.to/3nYepM9
Atomos battery eliminator:
amzn.to/39NloTf
Tilta D tap to micro usb:
amzn.to/3sDDLCs
@@SamLucas26 Very helpful! Thanks so much man! I know photo & video but my knowledge on cables is lacking😂
Haha, I feel you man! When you start rigging out cameras, you start to understand that there are entire positions dedicated to building cameras and knowing these things on set haha
Hey man, I don't know if you picked up the parts you were looking at yet or not, but I just wanted to let you know that I just updated the links that I posted. I didn't realize that some of my affiliate links had expired and listings had changed, so I just updated them all. Thanks man! Looking forward to seeing you around the channel!
Do you have a link for the mic mount dude?
Yooo, thanks for watching, my guy!
Yeah, here’s what I use to mount the microphone. I basically just run a short, 6 inch, 15mm rod through the smallrig handle. It has a mounting point for a 15mm rod.
And then I put this 15mm cold shoe clamp on there and it let’s me mount a rode video mic on there! Hope this helps 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1421787-REG/smallrig_1157_cold_shoe_rail_clamp.html
Awesome thanks mate
@@dylanclarke4691 sure thing, friend!
Hey Sam, does shooting to an external drive help the r6 deal with overheating? Or is it still limited to 15-30 minutes?
Thanks for watching, friend! The r6 doesn’t shoot exclusively to an external drive via USB the way something like the black magic pocket cinema cameras do if that’s what you mean. You would definitely need to go the external recorder route like the ninja v or similar HDMI recorders. But it definitely solves the overheating concerns and bypasses the record limit altogether.
It’s for sure my favorite way to use these mirrorless cameras is to record to an external recorder like the atomos. Especially now that the ninja v+ can record ProRes raw, so if your camera can output raw you get to maintain that flexibility.
Hi! Do you use the record button on the R or do you press record on the ninja v only? Or do you use the hdmi sync? I am asking because of the handling of this rig...
Does the R require to be set in record mode or is pressing record on the ninja enough?
Thanks!
Thanks for checking out the vid!
I use HDMI sync so that I can either press record on the camera or on the ninja in order to trigger recording to the ninja.
But basically you can configure it any way you want to use it. If you want to use the camera to trigger recording, you can or if you want to use the ninja to trigger recording, you can do that too
I’ve never tried to record anything on the ninja when not in record mode.
For instance, I’m not sure if you can record the EVF output when shooting in stills mode. That’s something I’ll have to look in to! I know Jared Polin does this a lot where he records the EVF to an atomos while shooting stills but I don’t know if he’s covered it with the EOSr or not.
Hi, and thanks for your quick reply!
I did not mean the stills mode... if you put the R in video mode, set aperture, iso and everything else as desired - and then press record on the ninja without syncing...the ninja is definitely recording. But i am not sure if the result is the same...
Another thing I found out, that if I put the R not in 10bit mode, but in 8 bit mode, to be able to choose another framerate (10 bit is just possible in 24/25fps) then the hdmi sync is not working...i am not sure why!? Any ideas? At the end this was the reason for my initial question...
Because kust in 8bit more then 24/25fps are possible...
Thanks for your help!
@@andreassaerdnafly got it! Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, I’ve had to go in and set hdmi sync both in 10 bit and 8 bit mode. Not sure why. It’s a weird software thing with this particular camera. But that’s what it is.
The way I shoot with this camera is always in 10bit at 24p anyways so it doesn’t really affect me because I’m not switching between 10bit or 8bit.
But regardless, if you hit record on the ninja, it’s recording, and the result is the same. All hdmi sync does is enable you to trigger recording on the ninja by pressing the record button on the camera. But how you triggered the recording doesn’t affect the end result
Oh! Thanks...thats what I needed! I did not try to turn hdmi sync on a second time in 8bit! Dont ask why ;-)
But its interesting that the result is the same even without sync and just recording on the ninja...
Maybe the controls of the autofokus may be behave differently if the R is not in record state...i will try. But at the end its not that important.
Thanks for now!
Awesome rig and great video... except for the boom mic in the way!
Haha, that was intentional 😂
Although the lesson was learned haha. Thankfully the detail shots in the B-roll fill in the gaps so you can see the rig!
Thanks for watching, friend!!!
Loved the video, hate the mic! The mic was in the way of really being able to see the camera the whole time as I wished I would of been able to. But again great set up and video
Thanks Gary! I really appreciate it. Yeah, the whole mic blocking the camera thing was definitely an error on my part, haha. I realized it after the whole thing was shot and just decided to roll with it. Hoping the B-roll gave you an opportunity to see the rig, unobstructed!
Thanks a ton for watching, man!
Hi Sam, could you add or link descriptions of your cabling? Your rig system is nice and tidy. The cable length and perhaps even links to them would be incredibly helpful! Like your content, subbed.
Yo, thanks for watching and subbing, Garret. I really appreciate it!
So, almost all of the cables that you need actually come with the V mount plate. So if you order the exact v mount plate that I use you'll get the Canon dummy battery and 8V DC cable to connect that to the battery plate. You'll get the 12V DC cable to connect to the monitor. And the you get an extra 12V DC cable for any additional accessory too.
But I'll link everything that I use and any additional cables that don't come with the battery plate as well. Full disclosure, these will be affiliate links. Thanks again for watching man!
Tilta V mount Plate: amzn.to/3kIRh4B (This plate includes the 12V cable to connect the atomos monitor, the dummy battery and 8V cable to connect to the camera, and an additional 12V DC cable for an additional accessory)
Atomos battery eliminator: amzn.to/3DO7MFx (This just slots into the NPF slot on the atomos and receives the 12V DC cable from the battery plate)
D-Tap to micro USB: amzn.to/3BNgqCn (This connects the battery plate to the follow focus motor)
USB to micro USB: amzn.to/3jAQe7y (This connects the follow focus controller to the v mount battery)
Thanks again, man. I hope this helps!
@@SamLucas26 Really appreciated! Thank you.
Sure thing, man! 🙏🏼
What length tubes?
Hey Dylan, thanks for checking out my videos!
These are the 12” carbon fiber rods from smallrig. They’re the perfect size for this rig
@@SamLucas26 awesome thanks mate
@@dylanclarke4691 Sure thing, friend! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Which bit did you use to mount your tilta wheel on the rod?
Hey Colin! Thanks for watching!
Here’s the rod mount I used for the follow focus wheel
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1490039-REG/tilta_wlc_t04_hwc_15_nucleus_nano_hand_wheel_15mm.html
That’s a s35 lens? Are you cropped in 4K?
Yep, the EOSr has a 4K crop so I can get away with the 18-35 when shooting in 4K!
Niceee video! how did you do that build at the beginning ? And how do you shoot 1080P 23.98 on the atomos? mine only output 1080p 60 and it will output 4k 24 and 30p.
Thanks man! I really appreciate that!
The build at the beginning was a stop motion. So I literally set a camera on a tripod, snapped an image, then moved the scene a tiny little bit and snapped a new image and did that all through the build. So I ended up with a bunch of still images that I took into fcpx and made every image last 1/18 of a second.
So I basically made an 18 FPS stop motion clip from the rig build. I should make a video on that process now that I think about it haha
And for outputting 1080 at 23.98p or 24p, if your camera is set to record 1080 24p and you’re recording on the atomos, regardless of what the atomos says, it’s recording what the camera is set at.
It’s kind of annoying but the atomos isn’t actually interpreting the footage as anything other than what the camera is set at. So even if the atomos says “1080, 60p”, it’s saying that your monitoring in 60p but as long as your camera is set to 23.98, that’s what the atomos is recording.
So just remember that the resolution and frame rate that your camera is set at is what the atomos is recording
@@SamLucas26 yeah that would be a dope video idea
Adding it to the list of videos I’ve gotta make! Haha
It’s a long list with not enough time 😂
@@SamLucas26 whenever I record the atomos file metadata still say 60 FPS in Resolve. But if I record 4K the atomos say 4K and the file metadata say 4K.
Good information, but why do you hide the subject behind your boom arm most of the time?
Yeah, for one I didn’t really mean to, haha. Definitely making sure I don’t do it again.
But I also figured that the B-roll would be where you can check out the rig more so than the a-roll shot
a few of your amazon affiliate links aren't sold anymore btw. Just wanted to let you know. I think small rig has an affiliate program
Thanks for the heads up, man! I need to go through and update all my affiliate links. It’s a full time job keeping up with them lol
Just wanted to let you know that I just went and updated all the links if you were looking at something particular. Thanks again for the heads up, friend!
Thx for the video, but next time , Please ! hold Your camera setup still in the vlogcamera for some seconds or make some photos.
Haha, yeah I’ve gotten this feedback a lot! You’ll notice a lot more detailed B roll in future videos I did of camera rigs.
Rookie mistakes!
i wonder if putting an atomos on the R5 will change the quality of the video
I don’t know yet but I doubt it, honestly.
I know current HDMI standards cap at 4K 60p (I think), so definitely not for anything about that. But again, I’m not sure. I think the best results will probably be internal recording.
Like I said, I’m swapping the ninja out for my shinobi monitor for the r5.
A weird choice they went with on the r5 is that it actually has a micro hdmi output. Which makes me nervous too for running a monitor. It’s the one thing that I wish they would have kept the mini HDMI for the EOS r
Couldn't really see the camera rig properly due to a lack of light and the mic completely dominating the shot. Thanks for listing the components though
Yeah, I’ve gotten that feedback on this video a lot. Definitely a poorly planned talking head comp 😂
Great work and enjoy your content. I have a similar setup. Subbed.
Thanks so much! I appreciate the love.
Do you have a video of it??? I’d love to see your rig!
Thanks, my sub ))
Any chance to get more info about this 12v barrel cable from V mount plate to Atomos adapter please
Man, thank you! I appreciate that so much.
Yeah, so the 12V cable for powering the monitor is just a tilta 12V 5.5/2.5mm male to male DC power cable hooked up to the atomos battery eliminator on the ninja v. I’ll link them here in this comment. Thanks for watching and subbing, friend! Much appreciated.
Atomos Battery Eliminator: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493126-REG/atomos_atomdca001_atomx_battery_eliminator.html?sts=pi&pim=Y
12V barrel cable: www.adorama.com/iatcb25dcm25.html
@@SamLucas26 great thanks for finding time to reply
@@vo.images Man, always! connecting with people and getting to have conversations in the comments is the reason I create TH-cam videos. Glad you reached out!
You do great my friend 👍 keep going my friend
Kader from Optical Power youtube .
Thanks Kader! I really appreciate that!
@@SamLucas26 You very welcome brother ! 🎥💥
keep going !!
If You have a moment pls stop by to my youtube channel “Optical Power” let me know what do you think 💭
I would love to have your advice Thanks !
Kader.
Looks great man! Keep working hard 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Loved the sound design on the pirate video
Sam Lucas 🎥💥
No link for cables 🤦🏼♂️
Yo thanks for watching and subbing, man!
So the Canon dummy battery and the DC power cable for the monitor actually come with the V mount plate. But I'll link all the cables I use in this rig here for you if you want to check them out.
Tilta V mount Plate: amzn.to/3AWMPpC (This plate includes the 12V cable to connect the atomos monitor, the dummy battery, and 8V cable to connect to the camera, and an additional 12V DC cable for an additional accessory)
Atomos Battery eliminator: amzn.to/3sAoaUS (this adaptor just slots into the NPF battery slot on the atomos and has a DC barrel connector to receive the power cable)
D tap to micro USB: amzn.to/3gcEqq3 (I use this to power the follow focus motor. It's nice to power it via d-tap because you get extra torque out of the motor with the higher voltage vs. USB power)
Simple USB to micro USB: amzn.to/2Uv9QAc (I use this to power the follow focus controller)
Hope this helps!
Holy cow. I never expected a reply. Thanks man! I'm currently rigging my r5 🙌🏼
@@thedailydosage8360 haha, heck yeah man! I try to respond to every comment!
Dude, one of my second shooters built his r5 with this rig and it’s an absolute monster. Such a sweet rig! You’ll be stoked on it 🤘🏼
I can't get the dumby battery that came with it to power the r5 😳 any help here?
I literally just figured it out 😄😄🤦🏼♂️🥳
Hey bro , u have Instagram ?
Yessir! @wham_bam_samlucas on Instagram!
instagram.com/wham_bam_samlucas/