Sometimes you get a 32k mile GTR for a 62k miles price.... and sometimes you fix timing and blow a head gasket. Super fun watching you give it a go, keep it coming!
G'day Alex, I experienced a very similar issue when replacing my cam gears and gaskets, along with belts, and several other seals or gaskets, on the front end of my Eclipse. When you're replacing as many seals or gaskets as you did, it's obviously, going to directly effect the oil pressure. As the pressure increases, the original graphite, factory head gasket (very btittle), can no longer support the increased pressure...and it fails. The head gasket was probably ready to crack, before you even began replacing cam gears, timing belt, etc...Cheers from Western Australia 🇦🇺.
Leaking oil seal doesn't affect oil pressure But it sure does affect the crankcase pressure inside the engine all the extra pressure was relieved by the leaky cam seal now with brand new seal there nowhere for the pressure to release so it found the weakest link the head gasket at one of the 4 corner oil return hole to the pan Two possibilities here the engine is worn-out lot of blow-by or the pcv system is not working correctly
The oil filter could also be faulty, no? He also could have gotten a chunk of RTV blown into a passage somewhere with all the cleaner and compressed air he was blowing around..
@@rangeraficionado87 not possible the only access to the oil gallery is the oil pickup tube It go from pick up tube to oil pump to oil filter oil filter have a bypass in case of excessive pressure to prevent the filter from blowing up It's probably a crankcase pressure problem the pressure was relieved by the leaky cam seal now the pressure got nowhere to go so it found the next weakest link in this case the head gasket and in the corner is the oil return from the head to the pan and the gasket is pretty thin at this place And it's a common place for head gasket to leak as well
Welcome to the wonderful world of DSM's my friend. I have a 95 Eagle Talon TSi (same AWD turbo as Eclipse, different bumpers). I honestly can't tell you how many times I've had mine apart, currently on 3rd & hopefully final engine setup - built 6 bolt block with 2g head. You're doing great, pretty sure your head gasket was just tired & sitting around mostly for better part of a year it was just it's time.. couple of suggestions that come from almost 20 years with this car: get rid of that crank sensor! DSM link will let you run a 1g CAS - simple swap that let's you drop that crank sensor/trigger wheel & your 2g cam sensor & pick up inside the cam gear. The "hall effect" 1g cam sensor will do both & it's literally checking a box on your DSM link software & splicing a couple of wires (or they sell a harness thru DSM link I beleive). Great job on your timing belt - again, suggestions based on horrific 1st hand experience: the vibration isn't that bad - you can always jump in your CL65 (I've had a 04 CL55 for about 2 years & 3 ABC line explosions!). Drop the balance shaft so you can get rid of that belt. If/when that belt should break, it will destroy all that is close to it - crank sensor, your timing belt & parts that keep it in time, hello interference engine, I didn't like those valves anyway! Also, I've never had a Gates racing timing belt (the blue one) fail, fray or break ever & is worth the extra $ in my opinion. Sorry about the novel, your doing great - don't let the DSM issues bum you out, it pays off once you get it going again until something else let's go until ultimately, you too will end up with a built 6-bolt! Good luck man - keep up the great vids/builds!
This video series brings up so many memories and emotions. DSM was my life years ago. It was my first project car. I turbocharged a non-turbo 4g63, smoked all my friends and blew up the tranny. Went to the junkyard and picked up a turbo tranny for $75 and was back in business. Back then parts were cheap and it was so much fun!
The 0869MC on the side of the belt is the date code. That code means the 86th day of 2009, and the MC stands for the Gates plant that was in Moncks Corner, South Carolina. That plant closed in 2009. That belt is 15 years old, and it’s a good thing you are replacing it for sure.
@@vinny6_9 It's rubber, rubber always loses its properties after some time. That's why you change tires when they are 10 years old, no matter if they've been driven 500 miles or 50000 miles.
Okay, I just finished binge watching your entire series on this GSX-to say it has been massively interesting would be an understatement! Thanks for all the hard work you put into these very educational videos. Would I ever do something like this? Absolutely not! But I could hand you a wrench. 😂 Thanks again!
Maybe fixing all of the other leaks like the cam seals and oil filter housing gaskets caused the engine to make enough oil pressure to push out of the head gasket? You also mentioned the oil pump wasn’t aligned before so again maybe after aligning it bumped the pressure up to start exposing leaks. Think of it as a blessing because once you put it on the dyno that head gasket was probably going to blow anyway if it is indeed original. Possibly saved you from catastrophic failure later on.
@@Cougracer67 but there is pressure anywhere there's oil, which means somewhere there was a small leak alleviating pressure into other areas. Sealing those up could cause this with the re-obtained normal operating pressure
Came to say the same thing. Had something similar happen on a volvo. bad pcv system blew a cam seal completely out and was filling the distributor with oil causing a random misfire and a really bad oil leak.
Alex, I've only seen one head gasket leak oil. That was the M104 on our 1993 300E 2.8 engine. Of course, it was already over 150k miles and was original and was just a very tiny leak. So, I left it alone. Didn't want to tackle it. It never showed up by losing oil on the dipstick adn never made a mess. Just normal stuff fro that engine, I believe. Recently, on the M276 engine in our `13 C300 4Matic, I had a bit of oil leaking from the camshaft position sensors and solenoids, so I replance them all, including adding the pigtails onto the wires, so the oil wouldn't wick into the ECU. The wires were dry, but the pigtails were cheap insurance, so why not... eh? I had one which was impossible to replace unless I popped up the intake, so I took it to my shop and they did that one. [They had to pop it all off with new gaskets and peeked inside the intakes and there was no carbon buildup. At 120k miles on a direct-injection motor... WOO HOO!!! A big THANKS to M-B for that design. Impressive. Of course, I also use Shell premium, Liqui-Moly oil every 5k miles and drive it hard when getting on the I-states. I get 30-32mpg on the road at 75mph, and it runs great for a car with a retuned E-class M276 motor. Oh, how I'd love to get that ECU tuned to its full potential. The car does 0-60 in under 7 secs. Handles better than our 98 SLK230, and all on original stuff. Of course, I'm going to install new Akebono pads on (they've lasted over 60k miles on the Zimmerman discs) & check it all out before a big road trip in August.]
Most of the other comments pretty much pinpoint it,.. but at @ 10:44 my theory is that all the vibrating and cleaning got into the graphite gasket and loosened up what was already a very slight seepage leak. And then perhaps by putting the oil pump back in the correct timing and fixing the oil coolant filter gaskets, it pulsated the oil at a different pressure or different time and the head gasket corner was no longer able to deal with it. The weakest link in oil gaskets presented itself.. especially after probably accidentally getting messed with and soaking up a bunch of degreaser. I've worked on DSMs for the last 30 years and they're probably just as picky or picker then any high-performance race engine. The tolerances are pretty tight to make sure that car runs properly.
I would say you are wrong It's a crankcase pressure issue the blown cam seal allowed the crankcase pressure to escape Now that it got nowhere to escape it found the next weakest link the head gasket Two possibilities here excessive blow-by or pvc system malfunction For it to happen in a such sort notice would point towards a crankcase pressure problem Somebody I know used the brake booster hose for the vent on the valve cover (engine was a b18b Honda) The hose got a check valve inside so the booster keep is vacuum so it was effectively just blocking the vent in the valve cover It took like 5 second of run time to pop both can seal right out and made a massive oil spill
After reading some of the comments, i totally agree the theory of sealing the oil leaks that you did could increase the oil pressure slightly. I think you should look at from the standpoint that someone was looking over your shoulder protecting you from a giant mistake. If that engine head gasket really let go think of the potential damage is could cause. You've been saved my man!
New to the channel and caught up on this series since I have a 98 GSX, you make it look so easy, can definitely tell you've been building cars for a while. Really smooth content. Researching and ordering parts in a good sequence is really hard imo and you've done everything pretty much the same way that I would. Awesome tip on the muffin trays You should inspect the harmonic balancer closer because the OEM ones separate at 100k, it must have been replaced already. Fluidampr is a good upgrade, they can't fall apart and smooth out the engine some like when starting from a stop and rev matches Be a lot more careful with the valve cover they're known to crack, as well as the rear diff covers. Watch the tightening sequence and don't over tighten etc just treat them like they're gonna break T6R's look great, I still think red calipers would be cool but the silver is clean too
I was so confused when he called it a mini GTR. Like the only thing it has in common with a GTR is that it’s a car lol. I can’t imagine spending this much money on that thing.
@@jimmy2367The extra PSI from fixing the oil leaks plus all the cleaners he was spraying on the engine. Most likely the engine was leaking before. All the dry Grime that was stuck to the engine must have been soaking it all up!
Finding that oil leak after you worked on a different part of the engine reminds me of plumbing valves. Sink and toilet valves won't leak for 30 yrs but the second you touch them it's over! Thanks for the video!
I don't think it has anything to do with the timing job. I would guess it has more to do with the car & gaskets sitting for a very long time and now it is being brought back to life. Often gaskets will shrivel up when they do not see oil and pressure from typical operation. I'm sure you will have it fixed in no time Alex, you always do!
That’s exactly what I was thinking while 240k miles is a lot it’s not for the year the car is. That thing probably sat for a good portion of its life. And now with bigger turbo and more power the gasket just couldn’t take driving again. Very odd that it was the oil side that went though
You can't let a car sit. Hearing him say he never drives it means he needs to sell it to someone who will drive it. I'm so sick of seeing these people with all these damn cars and never drive them. Plus it's a 4G Mitsubishi engine...they are notoriously unreliable. Close and long time friend of mine was huge into DSM for many many years so I know all about them. Head gaskets are very common if they sit.
I just had the full cam and balance shaft belt service on my Porsche 968 done yesterday! All idlers, tensioner, cam seals, cam position sensor, water pump etc. I was amazed at how much work is involved. Great video, sorry about the head gasket.
I'm thinking the head gasket simply got jealous of all the work you did to the front. It was just it's time, and it's way better that you found it before making a mess on the dyno floor...
Love the DSm content Alex. Great Video, and um welcome to the DSM world lol. Glad you found the leak before the Dyno. I agree with everyone else here, maybe by fixing all the leaks and the correct alignment of the oil pump, it now made more pressure, also I bet that high iddle was because the turbo compressor side wasn't hooked up all the way. All said and done, new head gasket, and a new- street tune before dyno. 🔥
Could it be that the gasket was on the verge of going, but when you torched the left hand side 14mm header bolt with the large MAP gas flame, the flame was catching the edge of the gasket and was just enough heat it quite quickly and intensly and cause it to blow right at that corner? Maybe there's an oil gallery quite close to that corner?
The bosses on the top of the exhaust manifold are there to install pyrometers to plug into a stand-alone ECU. Using those, you get more finite control over each cylinders' A/F ratio when tuning, instead of only relying on a downstream WB O2 sensor that's reading the total.
The oil drain leaking is super common. Most likely the flanges are not warped. What a lot of people don't realize is that the washers on the bolts are non reusable gaskets. Replace the washers with new ones and use a new gasket and put a super small dab of rtv on the threads of the bolts. Then it shouldn't leak.
Came here to say this exact thing. This is 100% why the oil drain keeps leaking. You could fix it by installing an AN adapter to the oil pan and turbo, and use an AN oil return line so you never have the mess with the drain line fittings anymore.
@@boostddsmBack when I had my 90 Talon, I always thought one of the DSM parts vendors should have marketed something like that. You had to take that stupid pipe off a lot to work on the engine, and it was always hard to get a leak-free connection to the oil pan when it went back on.
Welcome to the world of Mitsubishi. Since you're going to have the timing apart, you may want to change the seals on the oil pump shaft and the balance shaft. They will leak just as bad as the cam/crank seals. Also, when aligning the timing mark on the balance shaft gear, you want to spin the gear until it kinda lands on the timing mark. If you give the shaft a spin, you will see that it wants to land at one of three spots. One of those will be at the timing mark. If you don't get this correct, the balance shafts will be out of time and engine will feel like it has a bunch of angry bumble bees inside of it. Hope this help. I enjoy watching your videos.
Maaannn Alex! You're definitely my Saturday morning auto fix for real!! You and M539Restorations are badass when it comes to transforming the whips!!!🙌🏾💯
Thank you for your videos, I’m a injured English veteran and your videos have helped me so much been isolated not been able to get out much. 👍🏼🏴🇬🇧🇺🇸
Thanks fellas I’ve had 5 back operations 2 while still serving and 3 after, I even had my own locksmith business after leaving the Army had police contracts and others, but got to much for my back had to give it all up, Now I’m just a mostly confined to be bed. Thank you both seriously for your kind words u didn’t have to but u did, I believe in Karma and I hope u both get Blessed 👍🏼
I follow a lot of youtubers and have been following you for many years now. Your channel is amazing and is the best out there. Everything you work on is very informative and you make it entertaining. I look forward to your uploads every Saturday as I grew up watching Shade Tree Mechanics with my father every weekend morning and your channel brings me back. Keep up the hard work as I know this is not easy!! By the way, your hand cleaners are are awesome!
Absolutely love the channel! Just wanted to say, Mitsubishi from factory recommends replacement of the harmonic balancer with the timing job. They are a nasty 2 piece design that like to seperate and fail... Ask me how I know. You sir are an inspiration for all backyard mechanics out there. Thanks again
I think we all know your line of work isn't easy. I love your humor, and how you do a great job of explaining and showing. I appreciate it every week. Keep up the amazing work. Long time fan.
Sealing the oil leaks can make weak points in other areas leak. The car came from a dry climate and it has lots of miles so would not be surprised weak points could start leaking with the higher fluid pressures. It like when you use regular oil then go synthetic on a high mileage vehicle and it starts leaking because the synthetic cleaned everything.
Flexing the to end from relieving the timing belt tension and putting on a new one, plus any other little bits of shocks from working around the head (pulling valve cover, torque from removing the cam pulley, pulling on and off the headers, ect). Old gasket is going to go on if it's been holding by a thread from the smallest thing.
It's good to see a pro does the same things I do - and yes, it's easy enough to fish around with a magnet, but it's the kind of thing you think to yourself as you waste minutes fishing around "Why did I do that!"
I was having the anxiety over that one, too! maybe the difference between a real mechanic and a hobby mechanic ( in my case) is the confidence you can fix any mistake no matter what happens 😂
In 2021 I did the dreaded Ford 5.4 3V timing phasers on a 2008 Expedition with almost 170K on the ticker. We also replaced the oil pump with the updated high volume version. After getting the entire thing back together the head gasket on the passenger bank did the exact same thing because e we closed all the leaks except that one on the head. So we dug back in and replaced both head gaskets and all the valve train up top. Common, not really, but like you it felt like a kick in the gut. However, it is still a doable fix just more time and money, cause that’s all we have right?! 😂. BTW, we’ve put another 40K on the old mare since that repair. Worth every penny turning your own wrenches.
One of my favorite ways to start my weekend. Coffee and LSC. After the video today, will be working on the S197 Mustang project car with my Son armed with LSC knowledge and inspiration. You did not provide the definition / origin of "harping on". I enjoy when Max adds this info. It's us Dad's job to provide "important" knowledge. 😜
I have been putting TuxMat's in my cars for years. Best floor mats hands down. Look better than anything else and cover every inch of carpet you can see.
Not gonna lie Doing a timimg belt looked like you have to be a genius. I have not done one before and my anxiety level was high watching this. As always great stuff Alex
Timing jobs are easy. They make things easy for a reason. The only bad part is the access. If you've never done it before, and you need it done, give it a shot and take your time. At the end of the day, it is nothing but nuts and bolts.
I will say it is SOOoO much easier the engine on a stand. I have a 4g63t but it’s in a dodge colt instead of an eclipse so there is even less room but the motor comes out super easy because I don’t have access to or power steering.
The only car I'd do a timing belt/chain on would be an early 90s Corolla. Did the timing belt and water pump on a 94 Corolla I used to have and that was super easy.
Many things can go wrong with timing belt jobs, so don't do it unless you have contingencies. I found the new belt extremely difficult to fit (2 person job) and stripped the final pulley bolt-hole. Hence needed even more new tools and more time - has been a nightmare and i wish id just got it done at the shop 😂
Thank you so much Alex for your wonderful videos.... Today I was talking with a Holden v8 driver and he was saying how much he wants to remove afm on his v8 which turns off some cylinders... Pointed him the right way cos of your Holden ex cop car... Thank you for your help....
My wife and I (just married and back from our honeymoon!) refer to Alex’s videos as our Saturday morning cartoons. We’ve been watching long enough where she’s mad if I watch without her 😂
I did all of this on my Eclipse back in 2021 when I replaced my worn/overheating engine and as crazy as it sounds my previous engine wasn't vibrating, but the belt for the harmonic balancer was ripped off due to an oil leak in the same spots you had. The engine wasn't any good though because it had overheated on the previous owner (a friend of mine) and when I took it all apart the block was pitted and damaged and it was cheaper to get a donor engine then to try and completely redo the old ~125k miles engine. But same oil leaks and this is bringing back memories of when I first attempted to look at the original motor in it!
I’m glad you pulled the exhaust manifold/turbo as one unit this time. Much easier. I remember you replacing the small hose for the oil cooler in an early video for this and spilling a ton of coolant. Same happened on this one haha. The radiator drain only drains half the system.
Could it be the cleaner pulled off some crud that was sealing the bad head gasket? My guess is it was blown before, sat a long time and resin developed from the old oil and all the spray cleaner on the studs released that resin.
At least people can see that anyone can have issues even though you weren’t touching that other part ! When some mechanic fix an issue anything can happen. It’s weird but it happened to me working on someone’s car! Not the head gasket but transmission pan gasket! Lol 😂 customer didn’t care and wanted me to fix it without having to pay for it! Sometimes you just got to swallow the pill and continue doing your best no matter what others say or think! Good luck and thanks for entertaining us the way you do it😊!!!! ❤❤❤
You never had me, you never had your car. Now the mad scientist has to replace the head gasket that your fried. Time to overnight some parts from Japan. Always a treat to watch, I'm sure you'll sort it out soon enough.
I had the same thing on a 1990 Mitsu Lancer C62 Fastback that had been sitting for years when I bought it last year. It was a one owner car with just 42000 miles on it, so not driven very much and then left sitting for 5 years before I bought it. It had leaking camseals and Valvecover and after replacing those the headgasket suddenly "let loose" and started to leak oil at the front edges of the head. So I guess it really was just enough additional oil pressure from fixing the leaking Camseals and Valvecover to make the Headgasket show it also wants to be replaced.
I work on huge turbochargers. In my experience old graphite is a is a strange puppy sometimes. What I’m thinking is that the vibration that you were having beforehand was slowly but surely braking up and when you resealed the lube oil system the slightly higher pressure finally blew it out. You did also say it has 200K+ miles on it probably OE and had never been changed. Graphite gets really hard and brittle with time and heat cycling. I wouldn’t worry too much. Definitely go with a newer style head gasket with better material if you plan on throwing some crazy boost at it to avoid any issues going forward. Love the content bud. I can’t wait for the next episode!
What a bummer, but at least you can build the engine the Legit way! I have been mentally preparing myself to replace crank seals and more on an equally leaky Celica but this video has shaken my confidence. 😢
It happened to me, by fixing many leaking small points like: changing oil pan gasket, oil cooling gasket, and crankshaft gaskets...it started leaking from an engine oil gallery plug, which was a little bit defect but never leaked before. I think by fixing everything (gaskets and leaking points) changes the oil pressure, and oil finds a way out on a weak spot...I guess fixing all gaskets and o-rings will be the answer on an old car...we all learned that in a bad way! *i personally hate moments like this but I'm so happy that you will show that in a new video, love and peace bro!!
@@michaelbailey2393 Probably not, but he's not gonna be dumb enough to blow the shavings into the engine. Have you seen how meticulously he cleans the vehicles?
The plug on the power steering pump is so the engine idles higher when you turn the wheel so the steering doesn't get heavy. Lots of mazdas have that as well. When you turn the wheel you will hear the engine idle up.
Yeah lots of Japanese cars have done this especially in the 80s and 90s some had vacuum switches others were electrical switches. My 85 Dodge D50 pickup which was a Mitsubishi import had a vacuum switch.
Chin up Alex. Hate that you have to replace that head gasket, but then again I love watching you fix stuff. Maybe next time double check the hubcap fluid.
You were close Alex: 'This expression is a shortening of harp on the same string , meaning “to play the same note over and over.” It was first recorded in 1518' Happy to help 😀
I had a similar experience with a head gasket going out for no apparent reason. I have a sand rail with a turbo'd Hayabusa motor in it. The engine never had a single symptom of a bad head gasket, but when I started it up the first time after sitting over the summer it immediately started spewing coolant out of the exhaust at idle. The car had literally never moved under it's own power between the last time it ran perfect and a catastrophic head gasket failure.
Nice video. My 99 gsx I bought from a Japanese guy that had done so much to the engine the car would run 10s and still was a daily for me. It was the first engine I ever completely redid with a friend's help over 3 months. Everyone thought I was nuts cuz I put huge 20 inch assassin Lexani rims and a huge subwoofer system that would hit 140db. Ended up owning it for 5 years and then traded it for my 02 transam ws6 drop top and still have it today. But I still would like to find another cheap one with a manual just to run around with one day. Still my 06 Mazda rx8 is really what replaced this car and the twin turbo rotary spitting fire and the handling just killed my love for dsms. What I love about you Alex is we have the same taste in cars. I to have a supercharged van but mine isn't a cargo van it's a explorer conversion out of mishewaka Indiana. You should look into finding a early 2000s Ford exonoline conversion van and drop a big supercharged Benz or audi v8 in it. That's my future plan as ls swaps are so boring and I love the 12 and newer Benz biturbo v8s. I have a 2014 Benz cls63 that has this engine built by the only female at amg at the time and it's such a reliable mean car.
Just like I did my front brakes on my ML63 recently. When I dropped it down and started it up it started puking coolant. Now I'm deep into replacing all the brittle turbo coolant lines on my M157, long with a bunch of while you're in there and a couple of upgrades.
You probably had an oilpresure surge when you started it. Possibly a stuck presure regulator in the oilcooler or just initial presure surge from the oilpump pushing out all the air from that cooler. Can sometimes happen even with filterchange without prefilling. The old headgasket was the weekest link in the oilsystem and it was time for it to die.
Yes sir. I have a eclipse build also. This is why they have their reputation. Stuff like this.. it’s always something.. start pricing transmissions.. they’re nearly impossible to find parts for now.. even if money is no issue which is ultimately why I sold mine.
Wow. We had exactly the same thing on an evo4 way back about 15 years ago. All we did was swap the exhaust manifold for an upgrade. We also used heat on one of the bolts and couldn't work out for anything what caused it. Best we could come up with was localised heat near the gasket surface may have moved it a little but like yours our leak was at the end while the heat had been inches away. Never saw it before or since until now.
Timing got you. That headgasket was 10 seconds from blowing when you shut it down. I worked for a jiffy lube while I was in college. It seemed like at least once a month someone would call in saying our oil change caused some calamity. Blown engine, burned out headlight, messy divorce. Sometimes it is just timing
Recommendation: One of the mods that gave the best tactile improvement, was replacing the shifter with a Fidanza short shifter with counterweighted knob, and swapping out solid metal bushings for both the shifter mounting plate under the console, and solid bushings on the transmission where the cables connect. A massive improvement.
Hey Alex, make sure when you do the timing belt again there's an extra step you missed to get that balance shaft lined up. Theres a bolt hole on that side of the block 3/4 of the way back to the bellhousing. It runs directly in line with the balance shaft, and if it's lined up correctly you can put an 8mm drill bit all the way through that hole. If its not then you can only insert that drill bit about an inch.
Or spin the the oil pump gear to "timing" then a little more clockwise. If it falls back into time it's good. If it falls forward it's got to go another revolution no need to pull inspection plug
that sucks! but yeah that's the fun part about fixing leaks, once they are all fixed oil or fluid will push through the next weak seal in that case the head gasket, it happened to me fixing a fuel leak on my Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX but hey you're gonna have a new head gasket now!!
I'm of the same school of thought. Ypu fixed 3 major leaks. Hogher oil oressure found it's weakest point. Good catch and have fun doing that head. At least its an accessable 4 banger!
A way easier way to clean big and small areas is using one of those pump sprayers like you use for spraying for bugs or weed killer. Mix your cleaner and then pump and constant pressure! Also if you haven’t already, try the cleaner called “AWESOME”. You can get it from the dollar store and some of retailers. It will take ANYTHING off of ANYTHING lol. It’s cheap and works better than purple power, simple green, etc. It’s also great for soaking parts you want to clean, and/or putting in your parts cleaner tank mixed with water/distilled water. Hope this helps Love the video. GSX was in a league of its own during its time.
Instead of dumping fluids all over the floor that you have to clean up and dispose of, get a catch pan. At the shop we have an old van spare tire cover as a pan to slide under and catch much of the fluid that would have ended up on your floor. I also have a van fuel tank that we cut in half around the perimeter to make a catch pan the size of an engine. there is some other must have tools that you can make that are handy around the shop :)
this makes me nostalgic, sad and mad. i had a 1990 eclipse gs turbo and had a shop do a full gsx drivetrain swap into it. then i had the tranny built. then the engine was fully done too. everything was touched. crank was fully worked, h beam rods, forged pistons, balance shaft eliminator kit, head was fully worked, 272 cams, hybrid 16g/20g turbo. i had just started breaking the new engine in when the car was stolen and the engine and tranny removed. the rest of the car was found on the railroad tracks completely smashed.
As always, terrific work! Unfortunately, I believe your cleanliness may have led to the oil leak. Either the head gasket was ready to fail, or had failed previously and been hastily repaired. The undoing was likely the copious application of engine degreaser and forced air during the cleaning process. What should have been a stable corner was likely a failure waiting to happen. Fortunately, an issue like this, which would derail most others, seems par for the course for you. The more work it needs, the better story there will be to tell! Keep it up Alex - you're definitely the real deal!
ALEX this car reminds me of a boat i had when i lived in key largo Florida. I would fix one problem and up would pop up another one. After two years of fixing problem i said enough is enough and got rid of my hold in the water that i just kept putting MONEY in. THERE is a point that it is not worth it any more. Good luck on finding where the point is.
Guessing new seals may be culprit (or main contributor). Then, far distant would be the slight bit of movement from removing the engine mount, but hey, in the weeds right? Had same kind of thing on high mileage GM 3.1 V6. Replaced cracked coolant reservoir, new pressure lead to water pump weep, new wp lead to timing cover leak. ended up new timing set while in there. If it weren't for the mystery gremlins, we'd miss out on those fun & loveable head scratcher moments. [right] 😩
My guess is it was always leaking. With so much oil everywhere you probably just never saw it. I hope you can get it repaired so you can meet your dyno appointment. I tried to see if they had the floor mats for my very odd Chevy SSR but no luck. Hope your having a great weekend 👍🏻
Only thing I can think of why the headgasket is leaking now is maybe: The hammering on the broken stud from the outlet manifold.....it was also on that side of the engine. Good luck with that. Nice Mitshu👌
Yeah I would definitely say it's because you fixed on side of the leaks i.e. seals mean it's on to the next point of failure. Even if it was fine before. Now that everything else is straight and sorted it's the next one. Getting close to rebuilding the whole thing.
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said you should have pulled the motor to work on it. Honestly, with that mileage, that oil leak may have actually saved that engine. Good luck! Can't wait for the repair/tune videos to come.
So my only guess on the eclipse is after clocking everything correct and fixing the oil leaks, the pcv system is finally having to do all the work. Maybe an issue there but assuming the head gasket is the issue and it's not a turbo feed line just hidden under there, that is my best guess. Crazy though.... and btw love the show! Haven't missed much and am an old wrench myself. ❤
It's not a coincidence!! I changed my brake lines and brake pads with some buddies. Got everything fully installed and it wouldn't start. Upon further inspection... my timing skipped l a bunch of teeth when we tried to do the first start after completing the brakes. Life of a DSM owner :)
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too since you fixed those leaks oil was escaping from somewhere else least passed a resistance but now that you sealed everything up you created more pressure therefore blowing the head gasket
The head warped (as aluminum heads do) when you removed the exhaust manifold (which was helping to hold the head flat) it released the tension on the head. Therefore allowing the gasket to reveal the warped head. When you have the head machined pay particular attention to where the head is warped and you will see that (rear of the engine) reveal the head will cut on last past of the fly cut on that corner. Makes perfect sense to me and I have seen this on Hondas.
Grab a new set of premium floor mats from TuxMat! bit.ly/3Wekysf
Why do they not have a Tux Matt for a 99 Firebirds 😿🫠🫠🫶
too bad they dont have my car a 2007 ford focus ghia
If your vehicle is more than five years old they don't make one for you.
@@disgruntledegghead6923indeed, I was interested
They don't make floor mats for my 2006 Dodge Magnum AWD.. 😕
You added about 15 psi of oil pressure from fixing all the leaky seals lol. Nice job and nice find.
That was my thought
It's probably more like 30 to 50 psi.
Yup!
I was thinking the same thing. By fixing the other leaks the last weak point went.
My thoughts exactly
Sometimes you get a 32k mile GTR for a 62k miles price.... and sometimes you fix timing and blow a head gasket. Super fun watching you give it a go, keep it coming!
G'day Alex, I experienced a very similar issue when replacing my cam gears and gaskets, along with belts, and several other seals or gaskets, on the front end of my Eclipse. When you're replacing as many seals or gaskets as you did, it's obviously, going to directly effect the oil pressure. As the pressure increases, the original graphite, factory head gasket (very btittle), can no longer support the increased pressure...and it fails. The head gasket was probably ready to crack, before you even began replacing cam gears, timing belt, etc...Cheers from Western Australia 🇦🇺.
Leaking oil seal doesn't affect oil pressure
But it sure does affect the crankcase pressure inside the engine all the extra pressure was relieved by the leaky cam seal now with brand new seal there nowhere for the pressure to release so it found the weakest link the head gasket at one of the 4 corner oil return hole to the pan
Two possibilities here the engine is worn-out lot of blow-by or the pcv system is not working correctly
my thought too... with all those leaks fixed the oil took the new path of least resistance.
The oil filter could also be faulty, no? He also could have gotten a chunk of RTV blown into a passage somewhere with all the cleaner and compressed air he was blowing around..
@@rangeraficionado87 not possible the only access to the oil gallery is the oil pickup tube
It go from pick up tube to oil pump to oil filter
oil filter have a bypass in case of excessive pressure to prevent the filter from blowing up
It's probably a crankcase pressure problem the pressure was relieved by the leaky cam seal now the pressure got nowhere to go so it found the next weakest link in this case the head gasket and in the corner is the oil return from the head to the pan and the gasket is pretty thin at this place
And it's a common place for head gasket to leak as well
That my friend makes perfect sense to me and I would agree with your line of thought!
Welcome to the wonderful world of DSM's my friend. I have a 95 Eagle Talon TSi (same AWD turbo as Eclipse, different bumpers). I honestly can't tell you how many times I've had mine apart, currently on 3rd & hopefully final engine setup - built 6 bolt block with 2g head. You're doing great, pretty sure your head gasket was just tired & sitting around mostly for better part of a year it was just it's time.. couple of suggestions that come from almost 20 years with this car: get rid of that crank sensor! DSM link will let you run a 1g CAS - simple swap that let's you drop that crank sensor/trigger wheel & your 2g cam sensor & pick up inside the cam gear. The "hall effect" 1g cam sensor will do both & it's literally checking a box on your DSM link software & splicing a couple of wires (or they sell a harness thru DSM link I beleive). Great job on your timing belt - again, suggestions based on horrific 1st hand experience: the vibration isn't that bad - you can always jump in your CL65 (I've had a 04 CL55 for about 2 years & 3 ABC line explosions!). Drop the balance shaft so you can get rid of that belt. If/when that belt should break, it will destroy all that is close to it - crank sensor, your timing belt & parts that keep it in time, hello interference engine, I didn't like those valves anyway! Also, I've never had a Gates racing timing belt (the blue one) fail, fray or break ever & is worth the extra $ in my opinion. Sorry about the novel, your doing great - don't let the DSM issues bum you out, it pays off once you get it going again until something else let's go until ultimately, you too will end up with a built 6-bolt! Good luck man - keep up the great vids/builds!
Throughout the history of the world, nothing good has ever happened after someone mutters the phrase “what could possibly go wrong?”
This is very true.
No doubt!
Jerermy Clarkson comes to mind.
"How hard can it be" is another that comes to mind.
This is similar to the announcer saying "Mack steps to the line, you know folks, he has hit 20 straight free throws going back to last season..."
This video series brings up so many memories and emotions. DSM was my life years ago. It was my first project car. I turbocharged a non-turbo 4g63, smoked all my friends and blew up the tranny. Went to the junkyard and picked up a turbo tranny for $75 and was back in business. Back then parts were cheap and it was so much fun!
The 0869MC on the side of the belt is the date code. That code means the 86th day of 2009, and the MC stands for the Gates plant that was in Moncks Corner, South Carolina. That plant closed in 2009. That belt is 15 years old, and it’s a good thing you are replacing it for sure.
Wow.
Stupid question, but how do you know it's not the 86th day of 2019?
@@turtle2448thomas because the MC on the end denotes the plant it was made in, which closed in 2009.
the belt may be 15 yrs old, but how many miles are on it? it's not like it's going to go bad from just sitting inside of a garage.
@@vinny6_9 It's rubber, rubber always loses its properties after some time. That's why you change tires when they are 10 years old, no matter if they've been driven 500 miles or 50000 miles.
Okay, I just finished binge watching your entire series on this GSX-to say it has been massively interesting would be an understatement! Thanks for all the hard work you put into these very educational videos. Would I ever do something like this? Absolutely not! But I could hand you a wrench. 😂 Thanks again!
Maybe fixing all of the other leaks like the cam seals and oil filter housing gaskets caused the engine to make enough oil pressure to push out of the head gasket? You also mentioned the oil pump wasn’t aligned before so again maybe after aligning it bumped the pressure up to start exposing leaks.
Think of it as a blessing because once you put it on the dyno that head gasket was probably going to blow anyway if it is indeed original. Possibly saved you from catastrophic failure later on.
There is not any pressurized oil behind those seals, so changing them has absolute zero effect on oil pressure!
This is the answer.
@@Cougracer67 but there is pressure anywhere there's oil, which means somewhere there was a small leak alleviating pressure into other areas. Sealing those up could cause this with the re-obtained normal operating pressure
Yep I was thinking the same thing. 2nd this thought.
Came to say the same thing. Had something similar happen on a volvo. bad pcv system blew a cam seal completely out and was filling the distributor with oil causing a random misfire and a really bad oil leak.
Alex, I've only seen one head gasket leak oil. That was the M104 on our 1993 300E 2.8 engine. Of course, it was already over 150k miles and was original and was just a very tiny leak. So, I left it alone. Didn't want to tackle it. It never showed up by losing oil on the dipstick adn never made a mess. Just normal stuff fro that engine, I believe.
Recently, on the M276 engine in our `13 C300 4Matic, I had a bit of oil leaking from the camshaft position sensors and solenoids, so I replance them all, including adding the pigtails onto the wires, so the oil wouldn't wick into the ECU. The wires were dry, but the pigtails were cheap insurance, so why not... eh? I had one which was impossible to replace unless I popped up the intake, so I took it to my shop and they did that one. [They had to pop it all off with new gaskets and peeked inside the intakes and there was no carbon buildup. At 120k miles on a direct-injection motor... WOO HOO!!! A big THANKS to M-B for that design. Impressive. Of course, I also use Shell premium, Liqui-Moly oil every 5k miles and drive it hard when getting on the I-states. I get 30-32mpg on the road at 75mph, and it runs great for a car with a retuned E-class M276 motor. Oh, how I'd love to get that ECU tuned to its full potential. The car does 0-60 in under 7 secs. Handles better than our 98 SLK230, and all on original stuff. Of course, I'm going to install new Akebono pads on (they've lasted over 60k miles on the Zimmerman discs) & check it all out before a big road trip in August.]
Most of the other comments pretty much pinpoint it,.. but at @ 10:44 my theory is that all the vibrating and cleaning got into the graphite gasket and loosened up what was already a very slight seepage leak. And then perhaps by putting the oil pump back in the correct timing and fixing the oil coolant filter gaskets, it pulsated the oil at a different pressure or different time and the head gasket corner was no longer able to deal with it.
The weakest link in oil gaskets presented itself.. especially after probably accidentally getting messed with and soaking up a bunch of degreaser.
I've worked on DSMs for the last 30 years and they're probably just as picky or picker then any high-performance race engine. The tolerances are pretty tight to make sure that car runs properly.
I would say you are wrong
It's a crankcase pressure issue the blown cam seal allowed the crankcase pressure to escape
Now that it got nowhere to escape it found the next weakest link the head gasket
Two possibilities here excessive blow-by or pvc system malfunction
For it to happen in a such sort notice would point towards a crankcase pressure problem
Somebody I know used the brake booster hose for the vent on the valve cover (engine was a b18b Honda)
The hose got a check valve inside so the booster keep is vacuum so it was effectively just blocking the vent in the valve cover
It took like 5 second of run time to pop both can seal right out and made a massive oil spill
After reading some of the comments, i totally agree the theory of sealing the oil leaks that you did could increase the oil pressure slightly. I think you should look at from the standpoint that someone was looking over your shoulder protecting you from a giant mistake. If that engine head gasket really let go think of the potential damage is could cause. You've been saved my man!
Dang, between Gears & Gasoline and LSC its a DSM Saturday!
Man I'm saying the same thing! Lol
I said the same thing 😂
I said the same thing 😂😂😂
Dang Saturday Misadventures
Yo dije lo mismo😅
New to the channel and caught up on this series since I have a 98 GSX, you make it look so easy, can definitely tell you've been building cars for a while. Really smooth content. Researching and ordering parts in a good sequence is really hard imo and you've done everything pretty much the same way that I would. Awesome tip on the muffin trays
You should inspect the harmonic balancer closer because the OEM ones separate at 100k, it must have been replaced already. Fluidampr is a good upgrade, they can't fall apart and smooth out the engine some like when starting from a stop and rev matches
Be a lot more careful with the valve cover they're known to crack, as well as the rear diff covers. Watch the tightening sequence and don't over tighten etc just treat them like they're gonna break
T6R's look great, I still think red calipers would be cool but the silver is clean too
Good grief. This Eclipse is living up to it's name.... it's totally eclipsing what you thought you'd have to spend to get it back on the road! LOL
Remember how Neil deGrasse Tyson would put it? He called it nothing more than an eclipse party. 😅
I was so confused when he called it a mini GTR. Like the only thing it has in common with a GTR is that it’s a car lol. I can’t imagine spending this much money on that thing.
You clean it, it has probably been leaking before but the dirt kloggde the leak
@conor7154 and all wheel drive, and turbo, and it's a coupe.
@@jimmy2367The extra PSI from fixing the oil leaks plus all the cleaners he was spraying on the engine. Most likely the engine was leaking before. All the dry Grime that was stuck to the engine must have been soaking it all up!
Finding that oil leak after you worked on a different part of the engine reminds me of plumbing valves. Sink and toilet valves won't leak for 30 yrs but the second you touch them it's over!
Thanks for the video!
I don't think it has anything to do with the timing job. I would guess it has more to do with the car & gaskets sitting for a very long time and now it is being brought back to life. Often gaskets will shrivel up when they do not see oil and pressure from typical operation. I'm sure you will have it fixed in no time Alex, you always do!
That’s exactly what I was thinking while 240k miles is a lot it’s not for the year the car is. That thing probably sat for a good portion of its life. And now with bigger turbo and more power the gasket just couldn’t take driving again. Very odd that it was the oil side that went though
I agree with that assessment, I’ve had a car blow its head gasket after sitting for a couple of months. Older car with high mileage.
You can't let a car sit. Hearing him say he never drives it means he needs to sell it to someone who will drive it. I'm so sick of seeing these people with all these damn cars and never drive them. Plus it's a 4G Mitsubishi engine...they are notoriously unreliable. Close and long time friend of mine was huge into DSM for many many years so I know all about them. Head gaskets are very common if they sit.
Has something to do with all his cleaning too I’m guessing.
I just had the full cam and balance shaft belt service on my Porsche 968 done yesterday! All idlers, tensioner, cam seals, cam position sensor, water pump etc. I was amazed at how much work is involved. Great video, sorry about the head gasket.
I'm thinking the head gasket simply got jealous of all the work you did to the front.
It was just it's time, and it's way better that you found it before making a mess on the dyno floor...
Love the DSm content Alex.
Great Video, and um welcome to the DSM world lol.
Glad you found the leak before the Dyno.
I agree with everyone else here, maybe by fixing all the leaks and the correct alignment of the oil pump, it now made more pressure, also I bet that high iddle was because the turbo compressor side wasn't hooked up all the way.
All said and done, new head gasket, and a new- street tune before dyno. 🔥
Could it be that the gasket was on the verge of going, but when you torched the left hand side 14mm header bolt with the large MAP gas flame, the flame was catching the edge of the gasket and was just enough heat it quite quickly and intensly and cause it to blow right at that corner? Maybe there's an oil gallery quite close to that corner?
The bosses on the top of the exhaust manifold are there to install pyrometers to plug into a stand-alone ECU. Using those, you get more finite control over each cylinders' A/F ratio when tuning, instead of only relying on a downstream WB O2 sensor that's reading the total.
The oil drain leaking is super common. Most likely the flanges are not warped. What a lot of people don't realize is that the washers on the bolts are non reusable gaskets. Replace the washers with new ones and use a new gasket and put a super small dab of rtv on the threads of the bolts. Then it shouldn't leak.
Came here to say this exact thing. This is 100% why the oil drain keeps leaking. You could fix it by installing an AN adapter to the oil pan and turbo, and use an AN oil return line so you never have the mess with the drain line fittings anymore.
@@boostddsmBack when I had my 90 Talon, I always thought one of the DSM parts vendors should have marketed something like that. You had to take that stupid pipe off a lot to work on the engine, and it was always hard to get a leak-free connection to the oil pan when it went back on.
Welcome to the world of Mitsubishi. Since you're going to have the timing apart, you may want to change the seals on the oil pump shaft and the balance shaft. They will leak just as bad as the cam/crank seals. Also, when aligning the timing mark on the balance shaft gear, you want to spin the gear until it kinda lands on the timing mark. If you give the shaft a spin, you will see that it wants to land at one of three spots. One of those will be at the timing mark. If you don't get this correct, the balance shafts will be out of time and engine will feel like it has a bunch of angry bumble bees inside of it. Hope this help. I enjoy watching your videos.
Maaannn Alex! You're definitely my Saturday morning auto fix for real!! You and M539Restorations are badass when it comes to transforming the whips!!!🙌🏾💯
Dude, thanks for making these videos…they’ve been a huge help.
Much appreciated man.
Thank you for your videos, I’m a injured English veteran and your videos have helped me so much been isolated not been able to get out much. 👍🏼🏴🇬🇧🇺🇸
Hang in there man it will get better
Stay strong my friend, thank you for your service. From a very appreciative English guy.
Thanks fellas I’ve had 5 back operations 2 while still serving and 3 after, I even had my own locksmith business after leaving the Army had police contracts and others, but got to much for my back had to give it all up, Now I’m just a mostly confined to be bed. Thank you both seriously for your kind words u didn’t have to but u did, I believe in Karma and I hope u both get Blessed 👍🏼
@@keycommander971 Thank you for your service and stay strong. Keep life in perspective. You can figure out how to live your best life. From Cali
I follow a lot of youtubers and have been following you for many years now. Your channel is amazing and is the best out there. Everything you work on is very informative and you make it entertaining. I look forward to your uploads every Saturday as I grew up watching Shade Tree Mechanics with my father every weekend morning and your channel brings me back. Keep up the hard work as I know this is not easy!! By the way, your hand cleaners are are awesome!
Absolutely love the channel! Just wanted to say, Mitsubishi from factory recommends replacement of the harmonic balancer with the timing job. They are a nasty 2 piece design that like to seperate and fail... Ask me how I know.
You sir are an inspiration for all backyard mechanics out there. Thanks again
I think we all know your line of work isn't easy. I love your humor, and how you do a great job of explaining and showing. I appreciate it every week. Keep up the amazing work. Long time fan.
Sealing the oil leaks can make weak points in other areas leak. The car came from a dry climate and it has lots of miles so would not be surprised weak points could start leaking with the higher fluid pressures. It like when you use regular oil then go synthetic on a high mileage vehicle and it starts leaking because the synthetic cleaned everything.
No, changing one seal has absolutely no effect on the other seals. There is no pressurized oil behind those so fluid pressures are not changed!
Flexing the to end from relieving the timing belt tension and putting on a new one, plus any other little bits of shocks from working around the head (pulling valve cover, torque from removing the cam pulley, pulling on and off the headers, ect). Old gasket is going to go on if it's been holding by a thread from the smallest thing.
Settings nuts and bolts in the spark plug valley without any spark plugs installed is ballsy, lol.
he's got a magnet.
Another WCGW moment in the making
I agree. I was holding my breath on that one because been there, done that!
It's good to see a pro does the same things I do - and yes, it's easy enough to fish around with a magnet, but it's the kind of thing you think to yourself as you waste minutes fishing around "Why did I do that!"
I was having the anxiety over that one, too! maybe the difference between a real mechanic and a hobby mechanic ( in my case) is the confidence you can fix any mistake no matter what happens 😂
In 2021 I did the dreaded Ford 5.4 3V timing phasers on a 2008 Expedition with almost 170K on the ticker. We also replaced the oil pump with the updated high volume version. After getting the entire thing back together the head gasket on the passenger bank did the exact same thing because e we closed all the leaks except that one on the head. So we dug back in and replaced both head gaskets and all the valve train up top. Common, not really, but like you it felt like a kick in the gut. However, it is still a doable fix just more time and money, cause that’s all we have right?! 😂. BTW, we’ve put another 40K on the old mare since that repair. Worth every penny turning your own wrenches.
One of my favorite ways to start my weekend. Coffee and LSC. After the video today, will be working on the S197 Mustang project car with my Son armed with LSC knowledge and inspiration. You did not provide the definition / origin of "harping on". I enjoy when Max adds this info. It's us Dad's job to provide "important" knowledge. 😜
I have been putting TuxMat's in my cars for years. Best floor mats hands down. Look better than anything else and cover every inch of carpet you can see.
Not gonna lie
Doing a timimg belt looked like you have to be a genius. I have not done one before and my anxiety level was high watching this. As always great stuff Alex
Timing jobs are easy. They make things easy for a reason. The only bad part is the access. If you've never done it before, and you need it done, give it a shot and take your time. At the end of the day, it is nothing but nuts and bolts.
I will say it is SOOoO much easier the engine on a stand. I have a 4g63t but it’s in a dodge colt instead of an eclipse so there is even less room but the motor comes out super easy because I don’t have access to or power steering.
The only car I'd do a timing belt/chain on would be an early 90s Corolla. Did the timing belt and water pump on a 94 Corolla I used to have and that was super easy.
Many things can go wrong with timing belt jobs, so don't do it unless you have contingencies. I found the new belt extremely difficult to fit (2 person job) and stripped the final pulley bolt-hole. Hence needed even more new tools and more time - has been a nightmare and i wish id just got it done at the shop 😂
Thank you so much Alex for your wonderful videos....
Today I was talking with a Holden v8 driver and he was saying how much he wants to remove afm on his v8 which turns off some cylinders...
Pointed him the right way cos of your Holden ex cop car...
Thank you for your help....
No Saturday morning cartoons anymore, but thats ok, I have LSC!
I feel that same way
My wife and I (just married and back from our honeymoon!) refer to Alex’s videos as our Saturday morning cartoons.
We’ve been watching long enough where she’s mad if I watch without her 😂
I did all of this on my Eclipse back in 2021 when I replaced my worn/overheating engine and as crazy as it sounds my previous engine wasn't vibrating, but the belt for the harmonic balancer was ripped off due to an oil leak in the same spots you had. The engine wasn't any good though because it had overheated on the previous owner (a friend of mine) and when I took it all apart the block was pitted and damaged and it was cheaper to get a donor engine then to try and completely redo the old ~125k miles engine.
But same oil leaks and this is bringing back memories of when I first attempted to look at the original motor in it!
Maybe the head gasket failure was a blessing in disguise? Great content and thank you!
I’m glad you pulled the exhaust manifold/turbo as one unit this time. Much easier.
I remember you replacing the small hose for the oil cooler in an early video for this and spilling a ton of coolant. Same happened on this one haha. The radiator drain only drains half the system.
Could it be the cleaner pulled off some crud that was sealing the bad head gasket? My guess is it was blown before, sat a long time and resin developed from the old oil and all the spray cleaner on the studs released that resin.
This is exactly what I was thinking. This head gasket was blown years ago and he hasn’t seen it because of all the caked on nastiness.
My Subaru does it also.
Sounds like the most possible reason, cleaning off the caked up gunk opened the leak.
At least people can see that anyone can have issues even though you weren’t touching that other part ! When some mechanic fix an issue anything can happen. It’s weird but it happened to me working on someone’s car! Not the head gasket but transmission pan gasket! Lol 😂 customer didn’t care and wanted me to fix it without having to pay for it! Sometimes you just got to swallow the pill and continue doing your best no matter what others say or think! Good luck and thanks for entertaining us the way you do it😊!!!! ❤❤❤
You never had me, you never had your car. Now the mad scientist has to replace the head gasket that your fried. Time to overnight some parts from Japan. Always a treat to watch, I'm sure you'll sort it out soon enough.
I had the same thing on a 1990 Mitsu Lancer C62 Fastback that had been sitting for years when I bought it last year. It was a one owner car with just 42000 miles on it, so not driven very much and then left sitting for 5 years before I bought it. It had leaking camseals and Valvecover and after replacing those the headgasket suddenly "let loose" and started to leak oil at the front edges of the head. So I guess it really was just enough additional oil pressure from fixing the leaking Camseals and Valvecover to make the Headgasket show it also wants to be replaced.
I work on huge turbochargers. In my experience old graphite is a is a strange puppy sometimes. What I’m thinking is that the vibration that you were having beforehand was slowly but surely braking up and when you resealed the lube oil system the slightly higher pressure finally blew it out. You did also say it has 200K+ miles on it probably OE and had never been changed. Graphite gets really hard and brittle with time and heat cycling. I wouldn’t worry too much. Definitely go with a newer style head gasket with better material if you plan on throwing some crazy boost at it to avoid any issues going forward. Love the content bud. I can’t wait for the next episode!
What a bummer, but at least you can build the engine the Legit way!
I have been mentally preparing myself to replace crank seals and more on an equally leaky Celica but this video has shaken my confidence. 😢
Did you drill a little too deep and compromise the head, causing an oil leak?
It happened to me, by fixing many leaking small points like: changing oil pan gasket, oil cooling gasket, and crankshaft gaskets...it started leaking from an engine oil gallery plug, which was a little bit defect but never leaked before. I think by fixing everything (gaskets and leaking points) changes the oil pressure, and oil finds a way out on a weak spot...I guess fixing all gaskets and o-rings will be the answer on an old car...we all learned that in a bad way! *i personally hate moments like this but I'm so happy that you will show that in a new video, love and peace bro!!
Did you block the ports from taking all those metal shaving into block when you drilled the stud?
It's the exhaust side. It'll probably be fine. Exhaust go out, not in. The aliminium shouldn't damage the exhaust turbine.
Key word, "shouldn't"!
That was hard to watch!
@ndog1234765 all closed at the same time?
@@michaelbailey2393 Probably not, but he's not gonna be dumb enough to blow the shavings into the engine. Have you seen how meticulously he cleans the vehicles?
Well that was unexpected. Well at least we get to see more of the engine.
The plug on the power steering pump is so the engine idles higher when you turn the wheel so the steering doesn't get heavy. Lots of mazdas have that as well. When you turn the wheel you will hear the engine idle up.
Cool! I didn't know it was a thing.
Yeah lots of Japanese cars have done this especially in the 80s and 90s some had vacuum switches others were electrical switches. My 85 Dodge D50 pickup which was a Mitsubishi import had a vacuum switch.
Chin up Alex. Hate that you have to replace that head gasket, but then again I love watching you fix stuff. Maybe next time double check the hubcap fluid.
“Maybe someone was like hey stop harping around”. 😂😂😂 where do you come up with this stuff. 😂😂😂
I hear you talking about California cars and all but let me tell you the brake cleaner does not hit as good over here. I was in awe
When you where using the torch on the manifold studs you Probbaly set the outside of the head gasket on fire
Alex - so sorry to watch this set back . But I know you will overcome and bring this engine back to life . Wrench away !!
Man, Alex, you are the 6 year old kid inside of us playing with big cars 😂😂😂😂😂
It is just stupid.
Hahaha
You were close Alex: 'This expression is a shortening of harp on the same string , meaning “to play the same note over and over.” It was first recorded in 1518' Happy to help 😀
Yes its Legit Saturday!!!!
Sounds nice, legit street Saturdays
I had a similar experience with a head gasket going out for no apparent reason. I have a sand rail with a turbo'd Hayabusa motor in it. The engine never had a single symptom of a bad head gasket, but when I started it up the first time after sitting over the summer it immediately started spewing coolant out of the exhaust at idle. The car had literally never moved under it's own power between the last time it ran perfect and a catastrophic head gasket failure.
I'm developing a Alex sense as to when precisely he will drop a video. I was only one minute off.
Nice video. My 99 gsx I bought from a Japanese guy that had done so much to the engine the car would run 10s and still was a daily for me. It was the first engine I ever completely redid with a friend's help over 3 months. Everyone thought I was nuts cuz I put huge 20 inch assassin Lexani rims and a huge subwoofer system that would hit 140db. Ended up owning it for 5 years and then traded it for my 02 transam ws6 drop top and still have it today. But I still would like to find another cheap one with a manual just to run around with one day. Still my 06 Mazda rx8 is really what replaced this car and the twin turbo rotary spitting fire and the handling just killed my love for dsms. What I love about you Alex is we have the same taste in cars. I to have a supercharged van but mine isn't a cargo van it's a explorer conversion out of mishewaka Indiana. You should look into finding a early 2000s Ford exonoline conversion van and drop a big supercharged Benz or audi v8 in it. That's my future plan as ls swaps are so boring and I love the 12 and newer Benz biturbo v8s. I have a 2014 Benz cls63 that has this engine built by the only female at amg at the time and it's such a reliable mean car.
my day has been made now that you uploaded
Just like I did my front brakes on my ML63 recently. When I dropped it down and started it up it started puking coolant. Now I'm deep into replacing all the brittle turbo coolant lines on my M157, long with a bunch of while you're in there and a couple of upgrades.
I quit chasing speed, has made my life a lot easier.
Haha. So true. Now I just chase good handling and braking. 👍
speed with cars. I ride motorcycles now. Cheaper.
@@GldVWisRR ride safe dude, speed on bikes is just so much more painful when it goes wrong. 🙂👍🖖
You probably had an oilpresure surge when you started it. Possibly a stuck presure regulator in the oilcooler or just initial presure surge from the oilpump pushing out all the air from that cooler. Can sometimes happen even with filterchange without prefilling. The old headgasket was the weekest link in the oilsystem and it was time for it to die.
Yes sir. I have a eclipse build also. This is why they have their reputation. Stuff like this.. it’s always something.. start pricing transmissions.. they’re nearly impossible to find parts for now.. even if money is no issue which is ultimately why I sold mine.
Wow did not know Ben Shapiro was also a mechanic! is there anything this man can not do!!
These videos have made me miss my 95 gst. It had a 2.3 stroker build even had those wheels on it but they bronze.
This video sponsored by Big Cupcake.
Alex, the helpful hints (3/8" drill bit for timing) was great.
This is the highest quality work I’ve ever seen on a DSM. Great job Alex, should turn out beautiful!
Wow. We had exactly the same thing on an evo4 way back about 15 years ago.
All we did was swap the exhaust manifold for an upgrade.
We also used heat on one of the bolts and couldn't work out for anything what caused it.
Best we could come up with was localised heat near the gasket surface may have moved it a little but like yours our leak was at the end while the heat had been inches away.
Never saw it before or since until now.
Timing got you. That headgasket was 10 seconds from blowing when you shut it down. I worked for a jiffy lube while I was in college. It seemed like at least once a month someone would call in saying our oil change caused some calamity. Blown engine, burned out headlight, messy divorce. Sometimes it is just timing
Recommendation: One of the mods that gave the best tactile improvement, was replacing the shifter with a Fidanza short shifter with counterweighted knob, and swapping out solid metal bushings for both the shifter mounting plate under the console, and solid bushings on the transmission where the cables connect. A massive improvement.
Hey Alex, make sure when you do the timing belt again there's an extra step you missed to get that balance shaft lined up. Theres a bolt hole on that side of the block 3/4 of the way back to the bellhousing. It runs directly in line with the balance shaft, and if it's lined up correctly you can put an 8mm drill bit all the way through that hole. If its not then you can only insert that drill bit about an inch.
Or spin the the oil pump gear to "timing" then a little more clockwise. If it falls back into time it's good. If it falls forward it's got to go another revolution no need to pull inspection plug
that sucks! but yeah that's the fun part about fixing leaks, once they are all fixed oil or fluid will push through the next weak seal in that case the head gasket, it happened to me fixing a fuel leak on my Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX but hey you're gonna have a new head gasket now!!
I'm of the same school of thought. Ypu fixed 3 major leaks. Hogher oil oressure found it's weakest point. Good catch and have fun doing that head. At least its an accessable 4 banger!
A way easier way to clean big and small areas is using one of those pump sprayers like you use for spraying for bugs or weed killer. Mix your cleaner and then pump and constant pressure!
Also if you haven’t already, try the cleaner called “AWESOME”. You can get it from the dollar store and some of retailers. It will take ANYTHING off of ANYTHING lol. It’s cheap and works better than purple power, simple green, etc. It’s also great for soaking parts you want to clean, and/or putting in your parts cleaner tank mixed with water/distilled water. Hope this helps
Love the video. GSX was in a league of its own during its time.
Instead of dumping fluids all over the floor that you have to clean up and dispose of, get a catch pan. At the shop we have an old van spare tire cover as a pan to slide under and catch much of the fluid that would have ended up on your floor. I also have a van fuel tank that we cut in half around the perimeter to make a catch pan the size of an engine. there is some other must have tools that you can make that are handy around the shop :)
this makes me nostalgic, sad and mad. i had a 1990 eclipse gs turbo and had a shop do a full gsx drivetrain swap into it. then i had the tranny built. then the engine was fully done too. everything was touched. crank was fully worked, h beam rods, forged pistons, balance shaft eliminator kit, head was fully worked, 272 cams, hybrid 16g/20g turbo. i had just started breaking the new engine in when the car was stolen and the engine and tranny removed. the rest of the car was found on the railroad tracks completely smashed.
As always, terrific work! Unfortunately, I believe your cleanliness may have led to the oil leak. Either the head gasket was ready to fail, or had failed previously and been hastily repaired. The undoing was likely the copious application of engine degreaser and forced air during the cleaning process. What should have been a stable corner was likely a failure waiting to happen. Fortunately, an issue like this, which would derail most others, seems par for the course for you. The more work it needs, the better story there will be to tell! Keep it up Alex - you're definitely the real deal!
Your previous DSM videos made me miss mine and remember it fondly. This video reminds me of why I sold it.
ALEX this car reminds me of a boat i had when i lived in key largo Florida. I would fix one problem and up would pop up another one.
After two years of fixing problem i said enough is enough and got rid of my hold in the water that i just kept putting MONEY in.
THERE is a point that it is not worth it any more. Good luck on finding where the point is.
Guessing new seals may be culprit (or main contributor). Then, far distant would be the slight bit of movement from removing the engine mount, but hey, in the weeds right? Had same kind of thing on high mileage GM 3.1 V6. Replaced cracked coolant reservoir, new pressure lead to water pump weep, new wp lead to timing cover leak. ended up new timing set while in there. If it weren't for the mystery gremlins, we'd miss out on those fun & loveable head scratcher moments. [right] 😩
WOW! that motors internals are amazing for the milage, good maintenance for the win!
Love the cancer shirt man!!! My momma passed from the wretched disease! Keep up the awesome content, enjoy watching every episode
AMG did tune some Mitsubishi cars back in the days. Your AMG hose is legit!
My guess is it was always leaking. With so much oil everywhere you probably just never saw it. I hope you can get it repaired so you can meet your dyno appointment. I tried to see if they had the floor mats for my very odd Chevy SSR but no luck. Hope your having a great weekend 👍🏻
Only thing I can think of why the headgasket is leaking now is maybe:
The hammering on the broken stud from the outlet manifold.....it was also on that side of the engine.
Good luck with that. Nice Mitshu👌
Yeah I would definitely say it's because you fixed on side of the leaks i.e. seals mean it's on to the next point of failure. Even if it was fine before. Now that everything else is straight and sorted it's the next one. Getting close to rebuilding the whole thing.
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said you should have pulled the motor to work on it. Honestly, with that mileage, that oil leak may have actually saved that engine. Good luck! Can't wait for the repair/tune videos to come.
So my only guess on the eclipse is after clocking everything correct and fixing the oil leaks, the pcv system is finally having to do all the work. Maybe an issue there but assuming the head gasket is the issue and it's not a turbo feed line just hidden under there, that is my best guess. Crazy though.... and btw love the show! Haven't missed much and am an old wrench myself. ❤
It's not a coincidence!! I changed my brake lines and brake pads with some buddies. Got everything fully installed and it wouldn't start. Upon further inspection... my timing skipped l a bunch of teeth when we tried to do the first start after completing the brakes. Life of a DSM owner :)
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too since you fixed those leaks oil was escaping from somewhere else least passed a resistance but now that you sealed everything up you created more pressure therefore blowing the head gasket
The head warped (as aluminum heads do) when you removed the exhaust manifold (which was helping to hold the head flat) it released the tension on the head. Therefore allowing the gasket to reveal the warped head. When you have the head machined pay particular attention to where the head is warped and you will see that (rear of the engine) reveal the head will cut on last past of the fly cut on that corner. Makes perfect sense to me and I have seen this on Hondas.
@legitstreetcars Thank you so much for showing all the issues with your builds. All of us can definitely relate!