I have to say that your content is not only informative but always fun to watch. I am now retired but I still love to learn, even though I haven’t twisted a wrench since around 2012 and left the automotive industry. I retired due to an injury early and now I let my son in law who is a mechanic at a dealership take care of most of my needs. Thanks again for the great content.
A common upgrade is the s90 throttle body. They are a very nice upgrade but out of the box they are known to leak due to the lack of seals. I personally rebuild them and am well known on the FB groups for this service. I used to rebuild the OEM units as well but being they are getting so old and beat up it was beginning to be not worth my time with them. If you are interested in an s90 rebuild service feel free to reach out, I would be more than happy to help out.
@@LegitStreetCars FYI. Loop the coolant ports. You'll never have any problems, I live near the border of US And Canada, -40F winters. Looped coolant ports. TB has NEVER stuck closed/open.
Hey Alex. The high idle could be that the throttle body is not grounding. There is a metal strap from the factory that connects the TB with the intake, which i did not see. I had this issue with my 1G. Try connecting a wire from the TB to a good ground. Good luck!
Dude! I have the EXACT same issue with my 2006 BMW 525i I completely rebuilt. THANK YOU! I used a thinner gasket to experiment and it bit me in the ass. I'm so glad to have the same issues as you. When you address them, I learn awesome new techniques. ALEX for President?
If you absolutely have to do this a piece of glass is probably best for flatness, I’ve used an old window worked fine, wouldn’t do it on something i cared about though lol.
Leave the intake and exhaust on when pulling the head. Former Mitsubishi dealer tech here. I’ve pulled a ton of those heads, usually from snapped timing belts.
Welcome to the joys of Idle problems on these. Same issues for Evo 1-3, VR4 etc. Due to the age as you pointed out the seals go on them. They are hard to fix and from memory there was no kit avail to fix the shaft seal only that other one. Usually only way to fully fix is aftermarket throttle body/ecu to bypass all of that nonesense. Or try other used ones and hopefuly one is in better cond. Common fault is the high idle you are experiencing or the idle hunt when the coolant is warmed. Good luck!
28:23 You can change the starter with the intake manifold on. Have to fish it in from the side but it’s better than removing the whole intake manifold. Definitely a good “while you’re in there” replacement!
44:53 about somes it up. I mean that sounds almost exactly like the DSM guy we all know or knew back in the day. However the truth is that we all still really like the things regardless. And it realistically is just a matter of having enough dedication and space to continue to be their caretakers. And to those that do, thank you and i salute.
Alex, I had an oil can, just like the one you're using. I was a jet aircraft mechanic in the Airforce, and I was able to keep it when I got discharged. Although it wasn't working, but I was able to fix it, and it's been 50 years now, and it's still working fine.
Had a 1G with 289,000 miles unopened engine. Took a balancer pulley at about 125k. Clutch master and slave at about 150k. T-case seal under warranty at about 50k, stock exhaust manifold was cracked when we finally upgraded turbo at 245is mark. I’ve owned over 100 DSM’s In the 90’s early 2000’s. 5 of which were keepers and daily’s and racers. Other than crankwalk in 2G’s, reliability was never an issue. In the high mileage cars(100k) leaking capacitors in 1g ECU’S was an issue. 80’s electronics it’s to be expected. I could go on all day. Lol. Love the DSM content.
I had a 92 tsi, precision 50trim, hks 272 cams, had an accel ems and was fun. Had to do a set of brass bushings in the shifter but ended up trading it for a Mitsubishi starion with an ls swap straight up because I got tired of constantly working on it for small gremlins.
@@damianlindsey6177 that’s awesome man. I started with them in like 95, then in like 97 bought a 94 Talon,that I still own today. Had a 98 that kept until I bought my Evo new in 2006 . I use to buy fix and sell them on the side. The 94 went through a ton different set ups.
@@MZRFaith It's honestly not unbelievable. The DSM community 10-15 (and further back) years ago was extremely active and at least 70% of us went through DSMs like pieces of candy. I used to find them in poor, non-running, condition, buy them for a few hundred bucks, fix them up, and put them back on the road with new owners. I went through exactly 31 of them only keeping 2 for myself longer than 8 months. They were much, much, cheaper and widely more available than they are now.
MAN... the outtakes always makes me appreciate how much effort goes into each project b/c of the explanation retakes you endure for each vid. Thanks for your continued grind - you make these advance projects waaay more approachable!
The plant where that starter was manufactured is in Mason, Ohio! Great video btw Alex I always learn something watching you fix or upgrade your fleet! Thank Alex!!
I feel your pain, I had this *exact* issue with it seeping oil in one corner (mine's a diesel Audi though). I think in my case I was supplied a cheap HG. Last time the head needed replacement for an unrelated issue so got the HG from the same supplier. The replacement I just fitted today looked better quality so knock on wood this one shouldn't leak 🤞
The head gasket on my Honda Accord coupe leaked oil from the day I bought it, and it kept getting bigger every time I drove the car. I bought the car from the shop I work at (they had replaced the head gasket a year before I started working there). I take the head off in my home garage and I found out why it was leaking: the block was prepped wrong, the surface was much too rough for a MLS gasket, while the cylinder head was perfectly smooth from the machine shop. The rough block surface was acting as a ratchet on the lower layer of the MLS gasket and pulling it into the cooling jacket around the cylinders, and giving the oil passage an exit out of the engine’s corner (just like the Eclipse). I used a carbide scraper to smooth out the block surface (by hand!) and put the new MLS on, and reinstalled the head and everything. A year after: no leaks. While I was working on the engine, I was going to ask my then coworker (who did the head gasket the first time) about what he did to my car.....but he was doing another head gasket on a Jeep and I saw him cleaning the block surface with a GREEN 3M bristle disc and all my questions were answered without saying a word to him. (He works somewhere else now, and that Jeep came back with leaking head gaskets)
Every week I'm pretty amazed how this guy is able to produce interesting content - consistently. Not easy to do (at all). Tip of the hat to the "legitimacy" of LegitStreetCars!
Please setup the GSX playlist, I’ll be following this till the end. You are an amazing tech, super quality jobs. Love the flow of the videos, I haven’t engaged in content on TH-cam for many years and I keep coming back to this. Mind you, I did have three DSMs back in my teen years so this brings back many bitter/sweet memories. Keep them coming
I would 100% replace the starter while in there. That $100 or so is super cheap insurance from a future broker down in a parking lot you are guaranteed to get. Likely a few weeks or months after you are done. It never fails, Murphy comes back Everytime!!!
Starters are like $250 these days but maybe that one is cheaper we'll at the part store I'm sure Amazon has one cheap but I'd take the stock one over that
I know this will sound " Ass -Kissy " but, I wanna say thankyou for your great videos. Every Saturday after a long hard week, I grab my morning coffee and enjoy my quiet time watching your videos. Thankyou for making my weekends.
I used to run an AWD dyno shop that focused on 1G and 2G DSMs. I probably owned 30 of them over the years, mostly 1Gs. Haven't touched a DSM in almost 12 years. Very fun to see someone wrenching on one of these :) I'm surprised headstuds weren't used and you didn't do a balancer delete. Also the timing belt tensioner wasn't replaced? I would almost always replace that guy since it will wreck your motor if it fails.
As a former owner of a 4g69 RA lancer that I did timing belt on, and helped on 2 other timing jobs on 4g63 and 4g69… Can confirm tensioner and water pump are must do’s while in there… Have to remove all timing parts to get to them…might as well since you’re already there with all the parts off Also the balance shaft delete isn’t that easy to do if you don’t have the engine apart(or at least the oil pan off). You need to rotate the bearings around to cover the oil port and stop the oil flow for that balance shaft, or it’ll oil starve the engine and go boom. My buddy did that on his EVO, and didn’t turn the bearings….then a few weeks later we had to replace his engine.
Ooof... Yeah that's no good :). If I were this deep in a DSM engine, I would pop the pan off and spin those bearings around; additionally, I would also grab the piston oil sprayers and make sure they're clear. I guess I need to go watch the previous videos!
Love the videos, I am restoring and moding a 1987 Fiero GT and on the days where I just can't seem to get motivated to work on it I just watch one of your videos and off I go to work on it! So TY for the motivation!
Made 380whp reliable on a big16g for years, literally only had issues with plugs/firing system most the time. 7 bolt car too - never had any excessive crank play either.
You make this look easy I'm an old and dusty mechanic , i have done head gaskets in my younger years in 2hr I'd rather watch you do them now it's much easier for me lol god bless you
Hey Alex, I have a ported intake for a gen 2 that you’re more than welcome to, if you want it of course. I never installed it since I sold the car many moons ago. I’ve been carting it around for 15+ years. It’s been powder coated grey. Let me know, would love to see it finally used.
As someone who loves cars but doesn’t necessarily do things involving cars all the time like you have… the way you have had the camera rolling most of the time on your builds/ repair buys and explaining the process and being adherent to what the manufacturer requires, just give confidence me and others alike to take matter of our inner gear head mentality to use🙏 gratitude sir gratitude
Great step by step tutorial. Oil on the head studs is important, glad you highlighted the bolt stretching as well as the correct sequencing. A+ performance
I would really, really not use a chunk of wood for decking a head. Its going to be no where near flat and could cause major problems. The proper way to diy it is using a chunk of tempered glass. Ive done it before and got the head to under 2 thou across the deck.
18:10 try using a large red brillo pad with silicone spray as a lubricant. I use a rubber lift block from a drive on lift to keep the pad flat. When you're finished, it will look like it was machined.
I had a ‘95 Eclipse GST for 25 years and it only had 83K miles when I sold it because it was in the shop so much due to the infamous “crank-walk.” I literally just rid of it about a year ago.
of course, I just bought new Timberland Pro (they are the most comfortable boot I've been in thus far with knee/back issues) and wore them to work last night so I can't return them. Let us know how they work after awhile. Don't forget to put a little oil on the top and bottom of the bolt washer to prevent friction while torquing the head, giving you inaccurate torque. I love the show, Alex. Keep it up.
One of the most informative videos on a DSM with good camera quality. Definitely will keep this in my saves for later when I need to rebuild my head. I always thought a head job was difficult and expensive. This guy did it on his own with $140 of parts and his own labor. Definitely a good guy to have in the community and made me happy to do mine in case it goes bad ❤
@@ZKrow382that’s not really a head job, just a cleaning. The machine shop will tell you what’s needed for the head but if you disassemble it (with every valve down to the keepers location known) you can measure all clearances including the camshaft lobes and runout. Then you could figure it out yourself but you’ll need a lot of tools for that
you should have rubber cemented a piece of glass to the head sanding board then rubber cement the sand paper to the glass panes of glass are amazingly flat
for a "backyard repair" im 100% with it , only things i would have done is planed the plank of wood and copper spray for assurance , great videos sir !!!
In 1977 we built Voyager 1 which is now sending back information 47 years later human beings are amazing...but we can't manufacture a gasket to last a lifetime of a car .
The non-turbo 420a eclipse engine had a similar issue with the head gasket. The problem was the corner bolt hole wasn't the same depth as the rest, so the head bolt would bottom out before it could clamp the head down completely. The fix was cutting the head bolt slightly shorter so it gets full clamping force. I doubt that was the cause here, but it is funny that both engines have a similar problems.
Save some money on that electric bill, especially being in Illinois. If I’m not mistaken you’re moving your shop eventually, but we used PVC strip door curtains at my job to keep cooled areas from escaping rooms into a non cooled area. Pretty reasonable and work great!!! Thanks for the videos!
Honestly i called you out in your previous eclipse video for spraying a ton of cleaner directly in your UNCOVERED exhaust ports thus causing the blown head gasket. Youre still awesome though!!
I was wrong, excellent vid and good work cleaning both the block and the head.....still in the future if running bit more power it's good to have engine decked .....I love your channel extremely informative
I love that you're rebuilding this car and I hate the fact that my Eclipse got stolen couple of years ago and I had a lot of the same parts on it that you have.
The fel-pro is one of the best head haskets you can get for a dsm. Lots of people running all sorts of power with them. My 1g is only making 350ish, but havent had issues with the fel-pro at all. Also ARP studs are a great investment on these.
A tip i learned was not to use wood, but rather have a roll of the right grit at the width twice as wide as the head, stick it a large known straight and thick piece of coffee table glass, use the head weight and just slide it back and forth and figure 8 motions. As close as machine work as you can get. Back in the day machine shops would do similar to a belt system. Great video for DIY's!
Those Brunt boots have a lot of negative reviews. They seem to be spending more on marketing than on the actual boots. They advertise that they're a Boston based company, but they're cagey about where their stuff is made. I finally got a response from them that they're working on a US factory, but for now their stuff is made in India, Vietnam and China. I refuse to buy shoes, boots or clothing made in Asia. It never lasts more than a few months in a work environment.
Beware of TH-cam advertisers without doing some further research. A prime example of that is the AG1 slop that Cleetus and Heavy D push. The company, and especially its owner, are shady AF. AG1 is made in New Zealand but cannot be legally sold there. It's an absolute scam!
ahh the memories. 4G , nights reading on NABR. Felt like an accomplishment breaking the 3 bolt on my 1G. Man looking back, I do miss it. Maybe in the next life there'll be something like it .
OMG, that board and the way you used it was about as bad as a DIY as imaginable. Wood isn't even remotely flat, even when using a flat surface you should move it in a figure 8 pattern, not repeatedly drag it across in the same pattern, that's literally how to create gouges. Same for using a steel razor blade and steel pick, they're both harder than the head. You can see scratches you made on the head with the razor. Graphite gasket will probably fill in, but that is definitely not how to do it, much less suggest others do.
100% agreed. There is no way, especially on a boosted engine, I would ever try using the wood board technique to try and resurface a head. I built many 4G63 engines and would never ever tell anyone to try that technique. Take the head to a shop and have it done correctly if it's not flat.
@@YayA-ts7sb one test run does not mean it worked. Fully warmed up and under boost is totally different. Maybe you should try Legos. They seem more your level.
@@YayA-ts7sb lots of things 'work'... He could have not cleaned it at all, replaced the gasket, and it would start and run likely without leaks... Until it blows again prematurely... Doing things right isn't for RIGHT NOW... it's for longevity and so you reduce variables that could cause failure.
@@andrewfletcher5584 mad it still worked its an old school budget technique-. when it fails you can say something bud but for now ALEX just did it with his son...maybe go back to cave your crabby ass crawled out of
I once pulled the engine an M120 out of a W140 S600 to tear it apart and change every single gasket. The head gasket was also leaking, and a lots of while you are in ther. Nice job with the Eclipse
I had a 1999 white Eclipse I drove off the lot in 98. I was only 18 and I loved that car. It had a power sun roof and a Kicker substation in the trunk. Great memories
i use a granit surface plate for some sanding. Much flatter than a wood board and is exellent for other purposes . Very flat and makes a good base for measuring
When you are sanding a head like that (or any flat surface), you want to sand in two directions offset by 90° and also going 45° from the long axis of the part helps too. If you only sand in one direction (usually along the long axis), you can get a slightly rounded surface. When you offset sanding directions by 90°, sanding one direction removes the rounding caused by the other direction. The 45° offset to the long axis makes the "width" of the area you are sanding more equal so you'll be rounding and correcting by pretty much equal amounts which will maintain the flatness as much as possible. You want to check for flattness the same way checking twice offset by 90° (45° and 135° from the long axis) at many spots. I like to use light under the straight edge so I get a better idea of how the surface deviaes from flat. Any way, when you want to keep things flat and you only have hand tools (and child labor), that's the way to do it.
So, it’s been about 25 years, but I remember versions of this DSM engine leaking oil on that corner quite regularly. I believe Dodge had a recall for it in the Neon (maybe??). Several head gasket manufacturers were designing an upgraded grommet for that corner, competing to replace the OEM head gasket manufacturer. We replaced lots of them back in the day.
My biggest worry about doing a big job on the engine is forgetting where things go. I take pictures with my phone before I touch anything and along the way and it has helped me in the past to not forget anything or to remember where something went. I do not work on cars on the daily so I have to take precautions
So glad you're letting me know how to work on my car that nobody really knows about :D I was there at the premier of the first Fast and the Furious when I was a kid and this car brings back good memories
Alex , i had to clean the base and head gasket on a trx 250r i rebuilt a few years ago and it had to clean that gasket material off and taking it to a shop wasnt happening . It took me hours to pick that crap off . And in the bottom of the cylinder it was near impossible so i experimented and found that soaking it in Creoil penatrant absolutely made it a breeze to get off . Hope this may help anyone that may not have alot of options they may try that . I know its not car related but i spent a lot of time restoring and tinkering with motocross atv’s and dirtbikes . Cant wait for an update on the lightning .
Vauxhall Astra J, turbo failure resulting in oil in inlet system. Completely took off the front part of the car, intercooler, turbo, inlet manifold, lots of connectors and pipes. No previous experience. Decided to try it myself after watching Alex's videos. Greetings from the UK
Just started watching the video where you tensioned the “loose” head bolt, first thought is a faulty bolt (quality of new parts has dropped) stretching unintentionally. Had a Volvo Truck caliper slide bolt do this, had to reuse the old one, torqued up no issues unlike the new item that kept on turning.
I really enjoy your content, I'm a huge fan of DSM. Thank you for everything you do for the enthusiasts for cars. I picked up on your car dying towel. I can't wait to try it!
Killing it! Great video and build! The "while you're in there's" are so satisfying! As a donor to the mechanic funds of America I want my technician to be this thorough!!
I saw "I DIY Fixed my Eclipse GSX" and clicked. Worked on these cars for 20 years and it's always exciting to see someone rip the head off of one. You never know exactly what you're going to find with these things. It's like opening a mystery box. Lmao. If I can give any insight about that throttle body situation; They are >very< touchy. You found the inner seal was in 'meh' condition, of course. The seal around the Idle screw is notorious for leaking as well as the seals at either side of the throttle plate shaft. Even worse is how prone to bending that shaft is when attempting to disassemble it. The TPS sensor is also extremely touchy but there are complete write-ups online in old repositories that detail exactly how to adjust them. Being even 0.1v off on it's setting can cause high idle/idle surge issues. These TBs shouldn't be too hard to find, however, as there are probably several of us floating around in the world that have old, forgotten, rebuilt throttle bodies sitting in our garage storage boxes.
Jafromobile has a great video on rebuilding the throttle body. You should have gone with ARP studs with that upgraded turbo. Even smaller turbos can stretch the stock head bolts.
Just wanted to say that you do not need to remove the intake to change the starter LOL! On my 98 TSI just needed to pull the battery and tray and that gave me more than enough access to get it. LOVE THE DSM AS WELL AS THE SHO! I use to live about 5 minutes from where you bought the SHO.
Hi from Sweden! I love all your work and videos and i think you are one of the most skilled, friendly and entertaining person working with cars❤️ You and Derek of course🤘😎😍
The Jaguar AJ6 and AJ16 inline-6 of the 80s and 90s had the oil leak issue from the head gasket. I replaced it on my 1991 XJ6 and it's working perfectly!
I had a GVR-4 back in the day, and I had the idle surge problem too. It'd run normally once warm. I replaced the tb when I had the engine rebuilt. Also had the balance shafts removed. That was a fun car.
Back when I worked at Delta, we used those 3M bristle pads with the fingers. And from what I remember 20 years ago, that is what they’re made for is aluminum. Kind of the same principal as a decal remover it will remove the trash, but not the base material, they also made a scrubby style pad. I want to say it was blue like those red and brown ones and those were supposed to be safe on aluminum too if I remember right
Hey Alex I have a good idea. If you’re friends with anyone in maintenance at a hospital or a facility check out to see if they are getting rid of any WOW’S. That’s the cart for your laptop that the nurses push around the hospital floors. This way when you’re working you can access the internet without having to balance your laptop on the engine and or other stuff. Great Videos Thank You 🙏
Its almost a 30 yr old car with a lot of oe stuff on it normal repairs that need to be made. No biggie Alex its not about the problems you have its about the end when its done you have a really awesome dream car yes the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX is one of mine as well as a 1996 Mazda Rx7 .
Yup, seen the headgasket go bad and leak oil a few different times. Happens a lot on the 97-03 F150's with the 4.6 and 5.4 and I'm sure all the other vehicles that use those 2v's. They'll leak right at the back side of the passenger side cylinder head
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A burger at the moment
Best channel out there hell yea waiting for new video hahah first one here
2006 E55 AMG
Same ad as Stay Tuned same offer. Often working on the same model cars🤔
The Segway's into your sponsors are the best on You tube. You are about the only one I watch the ads!
I have to say that your content is not only informative but always fun to watch. I am now retired but I still love to learn, even though I haven’t twisted a wrench since around 2012 and left the automotive industry. I retired due to an injury early and now I let my son in law who is a mechanic at a dealership take care of most of my needs. Thanks again for the great content.
Its turn a wrench. Twisting is for dicks.
A common upgrade is the s90 throttle body. They are a very nice upgrade but out of the box they are known to leak due to the lack of seals. I personally rebuild them and am well known on the FB groups for this service. I used to rebuild the OEM units as well but being they are getting so old and beat up it was beginning to be not worth my time with them. If you are interested in an s90 rebuild service feel free to reach out, I would be more than happy to help out.
Can you email me at legitstreetcars@gmail.com
Always tune in for the gsx! What happened to the ECO Vette build?
@@rigozapien7752sold it
@@LegitStreetCars FYI. Loop the coolant ports. You'll never have any problems, I live near the border of US And Canada, -40F winters. Looped coolant ports. TB has NEVER stuck closed/open.
@@rigozapien7752 it got sold years ago.
Hey Alex. The high idle could be that the throttle body is not grounding. There is a metal strap from the factory that connects the TB with the intake, which i did not see. I had this issue with my 1G. Try connecting a wire from the TB to a good ground. Good luck!
Dude! I have the EXACT same issue with my 2006 BMW 525i I completely rebuilt. THANK YOU! I used a thinner gasket to experiment and it bit me in the ass. I'm so glad to have the same issues as you. When you address them, I learn awesome new techniques. ALEX for President?
You have a lot of faith in the straightness of Home Depot wood lol.
I was just thinking the same thing. But he got me thinking, I have some leftover pieces of granite for my kitchen when I remodeled it… 😂😂
If you absolutely have to do this a piece of glass is probably best for flatness, I’ve used an old window worked fine, wouldn’t do it on something i cared about though lol.
na i work there and i dont even trust it lmao
HD Wood is only straight from
6 am to 1030 am.
Anything after 11 am is as straight as a bow.
@@djparra41 Granite is not flat enough for me to trust it for sanding something like that.
Leave the intake and exhaust on when pulling the head. Former Mitsubishi dealer tech here. I’ve pulled a ton of those heads, usually from snapped timing belts.
Welcome to the joys of Idle problems on these. Same issues for Evo 1-3, VR4 etc. Due to the age as you pointed out the seals go on them. They are hard to fix and from memory there was no kit avail to fix the shaft seal only that other one. Usually only way to fully fix is aftermarket throttle body/ecu to bypass all of that nonesense. Or try other used ones and hopefuly one is in better cond. Common fault is the high idle you are experiencing or the idle hunt when the coolant is warmed. Good luck!
Anybody wait for Saturday morning for these to drop? I feel like this is like my new version of old school Saturday morning cartoons.
It was 6AM in LA and I was just waiting for my LSC notification.
Bro it’s kind Saturday morning cartoons for men lol
@@maneotis4g63t true story!
Saturday wouldn’t be complete without a LSC video!
like the modern powerblock shows on TNN I used to watch with my pops.
28:23 You can change the starter with the intake manifold on. Have to fish it in from the side but it’s better than removing the whole intake manifold. Definitely a good “while you’re in there” replacement!
44:53 about somes it up.
I mean that sounds almost exactly like the DSM guy we all know or knew back in the day.
However the truth is that we all still really like the things regardless. And it realistically is just a matter of having enough dedication and space to continue to be their caretakers.
And to those that do, thank you and i salute.
Alex, I had an oil can, just like the one you're using. I was a jet aircraft mechanic in the Airforce, and I was able to keep it when I got discharged. Although it wasn't working, but I was able to fix it, and it's been 50 years
now, and it's still working fine.
Had a 1G with 289,000 miles unopened engine. Took a balancer pulley at about 125k. Clutch master and slave at about 150k. T-case seal under warranty at about 50k, stock exhaust manifold was cracked when we finally upgraded turbo at 245is mark.
I’ve owned over 100 DSM’s In the 90’s early 2000’s. 5 of which were keepers and daily’s and racers. Other than crankwalk in 2G’s, reliability was never an issue. In the high mileage cars(100k) leaking capacitors in 1g ECU’S was an issue. 80’s electronics it’s to be expected. I could go on all day. Lol. Love the DSM content.
I had a 92 tsi, precision 50trim, hks 272 cams, had an accel ems and was fun. Had to do a set of brass bushings in the shifter but ended up trading it for a Mitsubishi starion with an ls swap straight up because I got tired of constantly working on it for small gremlins.
Over 100s? You are a liar
@@damianlindsey6177 that’s awesome man. I started with them in like 95, then in like 97 bought a 94 Talon,that I still own today. Had a 98 that kept until I bought my Evo new in 2006 . I use to buy fix and sell them on the side. The 94 went through a ton different set ups.
@@MZRFaith It's honestly not unbelievable. The DSM community 10-15 (and further back) years ago was extremely active and at least 70% of us went through DSMs like pieces of candy. I used to find them in poor, non-running, condition, buy them for a few hundred bucks, fix them up, and put them back on the road with new owners. I went through exactly 31 of them only keeping 2 for myself longer than 8 months.
They were much, much, cheaper and widely more available than they are now.
My stock 2G blew a timing belt and brand new headgasket within a 3 month span at 180k miles
DSM life, more time in the shop than on the street but for those 5 minutes every couple months that they do work, perfection. lol
Makes you fell like Chewbacca working on the falcon I bet.
@@charlessorocco2900 Have I replaced a turbo on a GSX in a grocery store parking lot. You know I have lol DSM life.
MAN... the outtakes always makes me appreciate how much effort goes into each project b/c of the explanation retakes you endure for each vid. Thanks for your continued grind - you make these advance projects waaay more approachable!
The plant where that starter was manufactured is in Mason, Ohio! Great video btw Alex I always learn something watching you fix or upgrade your fleet! Thank Alex!!
I want to see the lighting so bad. It’s officially the most abandoned legit street truck on earth.
Same cries in lightning.
We want the lightning ⚡️
Imagine how many inches of dust is on the hood by now
Ahh, but this is legit street Cars, not trucks 😜
@@TiptronicSSLOL 😂😂😂😂
I feel your pain, I had this *exact* issue with it seeping oil in one corner (mine's a diesel Audi though). I think in my case I was supplied a cheap HG. Last time the head needed replacement for an unrelated issue so got the HG from the same supplier. The replacement I just fitted today looked better quality so knock on wood this one shouldn't leak 🤞
The head gasket on my Honda Accord coupe leaked oil from the day I bought it, and it kept getting bigger every time I drove the car.
I bought the car from the shop I work at (they had replaced the head gasket a year before I started working there). I take the head off in my home garage and I found out why it was leaking: the block was prepped wrong, the surface was much too rough for a MLS gasket, while the cylinder head was perfectly smooth from the machine shop. The rough block surface was acting as a ratchet on the lower layer of the MLS gasket and pulling it into the cooling jacket around the cylinders, and giving the oil passage an exit out of the engine’s corner (just like the Eclipse).
I used a carbide scraper to smooth out the block surface (by hand!) and put the new MLS on, and reinstalled the head and everything. A year after: no leaks.
While I was working on the engine, I was going to ask my then coworker (who did the head gasket the first time) about what he did to my car.....but he was doing another head gasket on a Jeep and I saw him cleaning the block surface with a GREEN 3M bristle disc and all my questions were answered without saying a word to him. (He works somewhere else now, and that Jeep came back with leaking head gaskets)
@38:23 Alex - "once you start making things look pretty....."
Also Alex: *spot of oil in between eyebrows*
What`s wrong with you? He is from Bangladesch.
@@willemp6432 😂😂😂
Every week I'm pretty amazed how this guy is able to produce interesting content - consistently. Not easy to do (at all). Tip of the hat to the "legitimacy" of LegitStreetCars!
Please setup the GSX playlist, I’ll be following this till the end. You are an amazing tech, super quality jobs. Love the flow of the videos, I haven’t engaged in content on TH-cam for many years and I keep coming back to this. Mind you, I did have three DSMs back in my teen years so this brings back many bitter/sweet memories. Keep them coming
I would 100% replace the starter while in there. That $100 or so is super cheap insurance from a future broker down in a parking lot you are guaranteed to get. Likely a few weeks or months after you are done. It never fails, Murphy comes back Everytime!!!
And with the quality of parts these days it would still bite him in the backside in a few months!!! lol 😆
Starters are like $250 these days but maybe that one is cheaper we'll at the part store I'm sure Amazon has one cheap but I'd take the stock one over that
I know this will sound " Ass -Kissy " but, I wanna say thankyou for your great videos. Every Saturday after a long hard week, I grab my morning coffee and enjoy my quiet time watching your videos. Thankyou for making my weekends.
I'm from Australia and look forward to Ur videos every Sunday morning
I used to run an AWD dyno shop that focused on 1G and 2G DSMs. I probably owned 30 of them over the years, mostly 1Gs. Haven't touched a DSM in almost 12 years. Very fun to see someone wrenching on one of these :)
I'm surprised headstuds weren't used and you didn't do a balancer delete.
Also the timing belt tensioner wasn't replaced? I would almost always replace that guy since it will wreck your motor if it fails.
As a former owner of a 4g69 RA lancer that I did timing belt on, and helped on 2 other timing jobs on 4g63 and 4g69…
Can confirm tensioner and water pump are must do’s while in there…
Have to remove all timing parts to get to them…might as well since you’re already there with all the parts off
Also the balance shaft delete isn’t that easy to do if you don’t have the engine apart(or at least the oil pan off). You need to rotate the bearings around to cover the oil port and stop the oil flow for that balance shaft, or it’ll oil starve the engine and go boom.
My buddy did that on his EVO, and didn’t turn the bearings….then a few weeks later we had to replace his engine.
Pretty sure he did the tensioner in a previous video
Ooof... Yeah that's no good :). If I were this deep in a DSM engine, I would pop the pan off and spin those bearings around; additionally, I would also grab the piston oil sprayers and make sure they're clear. I guess I need to go watch the previous videos!
@@MrRyanxdavey ahh, I'll have to go watch the previous ones then :)
Love the videos, I am restoring and moding a 1987 Fiero GT and on the days where I just can't seem to get motivated to work on it I just watch one of your videos and off I go to work on it! So TY for the motivation!
Something about an Eclipse and danger to manifold just brings warm fuzzies to my soul.
Made 380whp reliable on a big16g for years, literally only had issues with plugs/firing system most the time. 7 bolt car too - never had any excessive crank play either.
Finally, week is now complete 😅
You make this look easy I'm an old and dusty mechanic , i have done head gaskets in my younger years in 2hr I'd rather watch you do them now it's much easier for me lol god bless you
Yay Alex is on! DSM = Daily Service Mandatory. Lol. They are fun cars but definitely a headache especially once they are built.
Hey Alex, I have a ported intake for a gen 2 that you’re more than welcome to, if you want it of course. I never installed it since I sold the car many moons ago. I’ve been carting it around for 15+ years. It’s been powder coated grey. Let me know, would love to see it finally used.
yea baby under 1000 views when i started typing, howdy from Phuket, Thailand, love your videos Alex
As someone who loves cars but doesn’t necessarily do things involving cars all the time like you have… the way you have had the camera rolling most of the time on your builds/ repair buys and explaining the process and being adherent to what the manufacturer requires, just give confidence me and others alike to take matter of our inner gear head mentality to use🙏 gratitude sir gratitude
Great step by step tutorial. Oil on the head studs is important, glad you highlighted the bolt stretching as well as the correct sequencing.
A+ performance
I would really, really not use a chunk of wood for decking a head. Its going to be no where near flat and could cause major problems.
The proper way to diy it is using a chunk of tempered glass. Ive done it before and got the head to under 2 thou across the deck.
he didn't "deck" it, just cleaned it up. he mentioned it in some other comments. passed the straight edge test.
@@vinny6_9AND it passed with the 2 thousandth gap tool.
18:10 try using a large red brillo pad with silicone spray as a lubricant. I use a rubber lift block from a drive on lift to keep the pad flat. When you're finished, it will look like it was machined.
I had a ‘95 Eclipse GST for 25 years and it only had 83K miles when I sold it because it was in the shop so much due to the infamous “crank-walk.” I literally just rid of it about a year ago.
Enjoyed this episode and always love the way you diagnose an issue and follow through to fix it.
Always looking forward to your uploads
of course, I just bought new Timberland Pro (they are the most comfortable boot I've been in thus far with knee/back issues) and wore them to work last night so I can't return them. Let us know how they work after awhile.
Don't forget to put a little oil on the top and bottom of the bolt washer to prevent friction while torquing the head, giving you inaccurate torque. I love the show, Alex. Keep it up.
Hits better than the Saturday cartoons I watched as a kid
One of the most informative videos on a DSM with good camera quality. Definitely will keep this in my saves for later when I need to rebuild my head. I always thought a head job was difficult and expensive. This guy did it on his own with $140 of parts and his own labor. Definitely a good guy to have in the community and made me happy to do mine in case it goes bad ❤
You never seen jafromobil channel???
@@eduardoelpecador7209 I have, but his videos are either too advanced for my basic understanding Or it’s hard to find what I am after
@@ZKrow382that’s not really a head job, just a cleaning. The machine shop will tell you what’s needed for the head but if you disassemble it (with every valve down to the keepers location known) you can measure all clearances including the camshaft lobes and runout. Then you could figure it out yourself but you’ll need a lot of tools for that
you should have rubber cemented a piece of glass to the head sanding board then rubber cement the sand paper to the glass
panes of glass are amazingly flat
This
Glass is slightly flexible. Anything other than having it machined is ghetto bullshit.
for a "backyard repair" im 100% with it , only things i would have done is planed the plank of wood and copper spray for assurance , great videos sir !!!
In 1977 we built Voyager 1 which is now sending back information 47 years later human beings are amazing...but we can't manufacture a gasket to last a lifetime of a car .
Hey, V'ger had gaskets that lasted from the 1970s to the 2270s. That is, unless someone did a lot of "while you're in there." LOL
Yes they can, the factor in play is called cost
The non-turbo 420a eclipse engine had a similar issue with the head gasket. The problem was the corner bolt hole wasn't the same depth as the rest, so the head bolt would bottom out before it could clamp the head down completely. The fix was cutting the head bolt slightly shorter so it gets full clamping force. I doubt that was the cause here, but it is funny that both engines have a similar problems.
Isuzu dmax pickup, upgrading turbo and airflow
Save some money on that electric bill, especially being in Illinois. If I’m not mistaken you’re moving your shop eventually, but we used PVC strip door curtains at my job to keep cooled areas from escaping rooms into a non cooled area. Pretty reasonable and work great!!! Thanks for the videos!
Honestly i called you out in your previous eclipse video for spraying a ton of cleaner directly in your UNCOVERED exhaust ports thus causing the blown head gasket. Youre still awesome though!!
I was wrong, excellent vid and good work cleaning both the block and the head.....still in the future if running bit more power it's good to have engine decked .....I love your channel extremely informative
I think you might become more and more like Saran-n-Tuned... The queen of car cleaning! 😄Keep up the awesome work! 😛👍
His build’s don’t span 50+ videos though 😂
@@esiebert7625 I like that about Sarah's videos... 😛
I love that you're rebuilding this car and I hate the fact that my Eclipse got stolen couple of years ago and I had a lot of the same parts on it that you have.
What are you guys working on right now?
A burger at the moment
Right now..... Motivation and waking up lol 🤣🤙
Turbo Honda build, ‘12 sti, ‘11 R1, ‘14 r6. Yes all at once 😭
Two Marauders. A Silver Bitch ‘03 and a Dark Toreador Red ‘04
W212, 2013 E class, hope to see you work on 1 some day!
The fel-pro is one of the best head haskets you can get for a dsm. Lots of people running all sorts of power with them. My 1g is only making 350ish, but havent had issues with the fel-pro at all. Also ARP studs are a great investment on these.
Perfect timing
Thank you Alex for sharing your precious time showing us how to get er done ✅
What will break next on the GSX?
Former DSM guy here. The answer to this question is: “Yes”
92 corvette, retrofitting 2020 big brake calipers and rotors.
Camshaft. Maybe???
You gone learn about crank walk today.
That new FelBlow head gasket will fail next. Always use an OEM head gasket on a 4G63. After the dyno session, that 7 bolt engine will walk on you,
A tip i learned was not to use wood, but rather have a roll of the right grit at the width twice as wide as the head, stick it a large known straight and thick piece of coffee table glass, use the head weight and just slide it back and forth and figure 8 motions. As close as machine work as you can get. Back in the day machine shops would do similar to a belt system. Great video for DIY's!
Those Brunt boots have a lot of negative reviews. They seem to be spending more on marketing than on the actual boots. They advertise that they're a Boston based company, but they're cagey about where their stuff is made. I finally got a response from them that they're working on a US factory, but for now their stuff is made in India, Vietnam and China. I refuse to buy shoes, boots or clothing made in Asia. It never lasts more than a few months in a work environment.
Beware of TH-cam advertisers without doing some further research. A prime example of that is the AG1 slop that Cleetus and Heavy D push. The company, and especially its owner, are shady AF. AG1 is made in New Zealand but cannot be legally sold there. It's an absolute scam!
I wonder if anvil cut a pair in half yet!
ahh the memories. 4G , nights reading on NABR. Felt like an accomplishment breaking the 3 bolt on my 1G. Man looking back, I do miss it. Maybe in the next life there'll be something like it .
OMG, that board and the way you used it was about as bad as a DIY as imaginable. Wood isn't even remotely flat, even when using a flat surface you should move it in a figure 8 pattern, not repeatedly drag it across in the same pattern, that's literally how to create gouges. Same for using a steel razor blade and steel pick, they're both harder than the head. You can see scratches you made on the head with the razor. Graphite gasket will probably fill in, but that is definitely not how to do it, much less suggest others do.
100% agreed. There is no way, especially on a boosted engine, I would ever try using the wood board technique to try and resurface a head. I built many 4G63 engines and would never ever tell anyone to try that technique. Take the head to a shop and have it done correctly if it's not flat.
Well it worked so now what?????
@@YayA-ts7sb one test run does not mean it worked. Fully warmed up and under boost is totally different. Maybe you should try Legos. They seem more your level.
@@YayA-ts7sb lots of things 'work'... He could have not cleaned it at all, replaced the gasket, and it would start and run likely without leaks... Until it blows again prematurely... Doing things right isn't for RIGHT NOW... it's for longevity and so you reduce variables that could cause failure.
@@andrewfletcher5584 mad it still worked its an old school budget technique-. when it fails you can say something bud but for now ALEX just did it with his son...maybe go back to cave your crabby ass crawled out of
I once pulled the engine an M120 out of a W140 S600 to tear it apart and change every single gasket. The head gasket was also leaking, and a lots of while you are in ther.
Nice job with the Eclipse
I had a 1999 white Eclipse I drove off the lot in 98. I was only 18 and I loved that car. It had a power sun roof and a Kicker substation in the trunk. Great memories
Love the attention to detail you and Sarah n tune give to your projects
Absolutely love your determination to see these projects through to the end no matter how hard they fight you!
i use a granit surface plate for some sanding. Much flatter than a wood board and is exellent for other purposes . Very flat and makes a good base for measuring
When you are sanding a head like that (or any flat surface), you want to sand in two directions offset by 90° and also going 45° from the long axis of the part helps too.
If you only sand in one direction (usually along the long axis), you can get a slightly rounded surface. When you offset sanding directions by 90°, sanding one direction removes the rounding caused by the other direction. The 45° offset to the long axis makes the "width" of the area you are sanding more equal so you'll be rounding and correcting by pretty much equal amounts which will maintain the flatness as much as possible.
You want to check for flattness the same way checking twice offset by 90° (45° and 135° from the long axis) at many spots. I like to use light under the straight edge so I get a better idea of how the surface deviaes from flat.
Any way, when you want to keep things flat and you only have hand tools (and child labor), that's the way to do it.
So, it’s been about 25 years, but I remember versions of this DSM engine leaking oil on that corner quite regularly. I believe Dodge had a recall for it in the Neon (maybe??). Several head gasket manufacturers were designing an upgraded grommet for that corner, competing to replace the OEM head gasket manufacturer. We replaced lots of them back in the day.
My biggest worry about doing a big job on the engine is forgetting where things go. I take pictures with my phone before I touch anything and along the way and it has helped me in the past to not forget anything or to remember where something went. I do not work on cars on the daily so I have to take precautions
I love your videos. I don’t know much about cars but your enthusiasm and knowledge makes it a must watch for me.
So glad you're letting me know how to work on my car that nobody really knows about :D I was there at the premier of the first Fast and the Furious when I was a kid and this car brings back good memories
Alex , i had to clean the base and head gasket on a trx 250r i rebuilt a few years ago and it had to clean that gasket material off and taking it to a shop wasnt happening . It took me hours to pick that crap off . And in the bottom of the cylinder it was near impossible so i experimented and found that soaking it in Creoil penatrant absolutely made it a breeze to get off . Hope this may help anyone that may not have alot of options they may try that . I know its not car related but i spent a lot of time restoring and tinkering with motocross atv’s and dirtbikes . Cant wait for an update on the lightning .
Vauxhall Astra J, turbo failure resulting in oil in inlet system. Completely took off the front part of the car, intercooler, turbo, inlet manifold, lots of connectors and pipes. No previous experience. Decided to try it myself after watching Alex's videos. Greetings from the UK
Alex, your videos just keep getting better and better. Editing, content, pacing, everything
You remind me of myself with the cleaning. Enjoy the videos and the projects.
Just started watching the video where you tensioned the “loose” head bolt, first thought is a faulty bolt (quality of new parts has dropped) stretching unintentionally. Had a Volvo Truck caliper slide bolt do this, had to reuse the old one, torqued up no issues unlike the new item that kept on turning.
I really enjoy your content, I'm a huge fan of DSM. Thank you for everything you do for the enthusiasts for cars. I picked up on your car dying towel. I can't wait to try it!
Killing it! Great video and build!
The "while you're in there's" are so satisfying! As a donor to the mechanic funds of America I want my technician to be this thorough!!
I saw "I DIY Fixed my Eclipse GSX" and clicked. Worked on these cars for 20 years and it's always exciting to see someone rip the head off of one. You never know exactly what you're going to find with these things. It's like opening a mystery box. Lmao.
If I can give any insight about that throttle body situation; They are >very< touchy. You found the inner seal was in 'meh' condition, of course. The seal around the Idle screw is notorious for leaking as well as the seals at either side of the throttle plate shaft. Even worse is how prone to bending that shaft is when attempting to disassemble it. The TPS sensor is also extremely touchy but there are complete write-ups online in old repositories that detail exactly how to adjust them. Being even 0.1v off on it's setting can cause high idle/idle surge issues. These TBs shouldn't be too hard to find, however, as there are probably several of us floating around in the world that have old, forgotten, rebuilt throttle bodies sitting in our garage storage boxes.
Jafromobile has a great video on rebuilding the throttle body. You should have gone with ARP studs with that upgraded turbo. Even smaller turbos can stretch the stock head bolts.
Just wanted to say that you do not need to remove the intake to change the starter LOL! On my 98 TSI just needed to pull the battery and tray and that gave me more than enough access to get it.
LOVE THE DSM AS WELL AS THE SHO! I use to live about 5 minutes from where you bought the SHO.
Hi from Sweden! I love all your work and videos and i think you are one of the most skilled, friendly and entertaining person working with cars❤️
You and Derek of course🤘😎😍
The Jaguar AJ6 and AJ16 inline-6 of the 80s and 90s had the oil leak issue from the head gasket. I replaced it on my 1991 XJ6 and it's working perfectly!
I had a GVR-4 back in the day, and I had the idle surge problem too. It'd run normally once warm. I replaced the tb when I had the engine rebuilt. Also had the balance shafts removed. That was a fun car.
Very cool Alex. Clear timing cover very period correct.
Came for the head gasket replacement. Ended up subbing to your channel. Thank you sir.
Back when I worked at Delta, we used those 3M bristle pads with the fingers. And from what I remember 20 years ago, that is what they’re made for is aluminum. Kind of the same principal as a decal remover it will remove the trash, but not the base material, they also made a scrubby style pad. I want to say it was blue like those red and brown ones and those were supposed to be safe on aluminum too if I remember right
lol I love that you tried to tighten the head bolt first lol that’s the attitude we all have when I’m denial about a bad headgasket 😆
I have used piece of tempered glass and 80grit sandpaper glued to it. Cleaned many heads with it and worked just fine.
I like seeing work done on this OG import. Thanks for a blast to the past
This is the exact content I need to keep my Dsm build moving forward. As always keep up the great content!!!
Hey Alex I have a good idea. If you’re friends with anyone in maintenance at a hospital or a facility check out to see if they are getting rid of any WOW’S. That’s the cart for your laptop that the nurses push around the hospital floors. This way when you’re working you can access the internet without having to balance your laptop on the engine and or other stuff. Great Videos Thank You 🙏
What could be better than being on holiday in Italy 🇮🇹and watching a new episode of one of my favorite channel on youtube with friends 👌🏽Grazie Alex
Its almost a 30 yr old car with a lot of oe stuff on it normal repairs that need to be made. No biggie Alex its not about the problems you have its about the end when its done you have a really awesome dream car yes the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX is one of mine as well as a 1996 Mazda Rx7 .
Yup, seen the headgasket go bad and leak oil a few different times. Happens a lot on the 97-03 F150's with the 4.6 and 5.4 and I'm sure all the other vehicles that use those 2v's. They'll leak right at the back side of the passenger side cylinder head
Make sure the throttle body shaft seals are not leaking. Very common problem on DSM. Had to replace them on mine.
I’ve always been impressed with your general mechanic knowledge. Cool video!
I had that exhaust manifold. Worked great. Those were the days