10% equipment and product, 90% skill and Knowledge. Don't sell yourself short you have shown you are one of the masters of detailing. Awesome RESULT. I bet the customer was doing back flips. The company that painted the car should be called out. The customer paid good money for that paint job. Any reputable shop would not send any product out like that. Here in the U.S. we call them fly by night companies.
Appreciate that mate and it is a real shame that such a beautiful car that obviously has 100s if not 1000s of hours put into her would be finished in that way!
12:51 Thanks for adding that "ugly" part. Too many people think high end detailing always looks like "ahhh, he makes it look so easy and professional" when a lot of times, in the quest to chase perfection it looks more like "what the hell is he doing?", specially on old or just curvy and uncommon vehicles (like supercars, they can be SUCH a pain in the arse to deal with, with all their sharp edges and crevices). 16:58-17:10 Yeah, bonnets really HAVE to be presented at their best, even if the rest of the car isn't booked for a "perfect" or "gold package" treatment. 23:30 yeah, plus you don't have to mask most of it thanks to the trims being chrome. They actually benefit from a good polish. This car really turned out a treat Sandro, keep doin' what you're doin'.
There’s lots of ugly parts lol before you get to the gold! It’s not always easy trying to capture and project what the process is really like and what really goes into it and the hurdles you have to jump over but I’m trying to add more of that in each video. Thanks mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Yes people think it’s as easy as 1,2,3! But many times, we have to do many tasks in a very inefficient and suboptimal way just because there isn’t any other way to get access (with machines) in certain areas. Lots of elbow grease, lots of patience and some times some creativity.
This video is so timely. I have a car I’m working on right now that is 8 years old and has never been washed properly. Not once. The excitement is there for turnaround’s sake, but the anxiety for what cannot be perfected or even improved is real. What fascinates me about your videos is that despite all of the experience and wisdom, you focus more on the truth and challenges behind each job. And with over 2 decades behind you, to still highlight these things…it is what actually puts me at ease in the way of managing expectations. This line of work (especially without a proper establishment) requires such an education to give to clients so that they are the ones whose expectations are realigned. It’s not that miracles can’t happen, but that they take 50 hours to occur. Thank you again, Sandro.
If you don’t feel a little anxious when you’re trusted to work on someone’s pride and joy and they’re expecting a great result, you’re not human! I always try to manage the customer’s expectations and keep them realistic in that it will never be perfect which is true, but I love to over deliver when possible, but I also accept that sometimes I simply can’t due to the circumstances. Detailing and particularly high end detailing possess lots of challenges and constantly throws you curve balls which certainly keeps you on your toes and checks any cockiness you may have to bring you back down to earth in the realisation that you still have lots to learn no matter how long you’ve been doing this!
Thanks to You, i have changed my approach to testing best combo to have less work during polishing /finishing stages! especially with softer paints! and very thin paints that we are seeing more & more of !! Love that Firebird, its one of my favourite models@
Hey Sandro! I pray you and the family are well. I’m really speechless right now…..This car looks absolutely amazing mate and you’re not even through with it yet. I’m about to go and view part 3 and I’ll have a Few cups of coffee for you when I’m done ✅
I guess you will have to be gentle with the application of the protection too? I can not think of anyone else who could have done this job better. You made an absolutely fantastic job here. I am amazed. The bonnet looks like liquid metal. Take care.
Just proves time and time again, why I wouldn't let anyone else correct my car other than Sandro. Of course I'd do it myself.....but then again, I know Sandro would do an even better job! Well done mate, and your advice during the video, is invaluable. Your honesty and experience makes you a true master, and you really deserve to have 10x the subscribers you currently have. You look like you need a coffee!
Previous vehicles in my family were a '68 Camaro convertible and a '72 Malibu convertible. There is most certainly a difference in size between F-body and A-body hoods!🙂
Come for the details, stay for the life lessons. Great to see the restoration project visually come back to life, and to such a high level that the owner will surely be very pleased!
After watching your video, I also bought a da with rupes wool polishing pad in yellow and blue, lake country HDO in blue, although I don’t understand English, thank you for your instruction
What a great finish on a very troubled paint. They are very few detailers that show test spots, this process gives us the best information about the paint and how we are going to approach the rest of the car in a safe manner. I have been detailing for 10 years. My first lesson with the buff was a 15 minute lesson with the boss. Nothing was said about heat, speed of polisher, or cleaning out your pad after every pass After 4 years of doing it all wrong i went on a deep dive in trying to learn polishing on my own time and have never stopped learning When i think back on it now I know how badly i let down the customer buying that car I have a strict time limit on cars so that limits me straight away I work for a dealership so its all about time I buy my own pads and compounds I have made every mistake you talk about. The way i look at it now is MISTAKES HAVE THE POWER TO TURN YOU INTO SOMETHING BETTER THAN YOU WERE BEFORE. So dont beat yourself up about it learn from it and move on ITs about changing your mind set One great detailer said when you approach paint corection you have to learn how to do it safely, efficiently and effectively wise words from Sandro Cant wait for part 3 In sandro we trust on different note sandro take a look at Ben Abraham he is a singer songwriter for australia woth a list I think you will like him
Thanks Bob, always appreciate your very thoughtful and insightful comments mate! I think I was a year or two into detailing before I even understood the difference between a polish and wax but when I think back, I don’t think the people teaching knew themselves! I guess every person goes through that learning curve. We certainly don’t all have the same time and cost restraints but it sounds like you make a huge effort to do the best in your situation which is all any of us can ask! I’ll certainly checkout that artist and hopefully if he’s on Artist I’ll be able to use some of his tracks! Thanks mate!
So many enlightening lessons, and great advise to learn from these series. This one was no exception - Thanks again Sandro, absolutely thrilled for this customer.
I am always amazed at the level of skill and workmanship you display in your details. I am just as impressed in your video quality and editing. I look forward to every video. Outstanding work!!!! Thank you!
Same paint that’s on my dads 57 tbird. Soft as butter. Wiping with ipa will make noticeable haze going in the direction of the wipe. I still haven’t found the perfect combo of pad and polish. Thought it was carpro essence until I realized it was just fillers making it look that good. Left a fair bit of haze on its own
Complete legend my man! You have the highest quality videos, detail oriented, and educational beyond anyone else’s videos! Keep up the great work! You’re an inspiration to us for detail work my friend.
For the overseas viewers who might be wondering, that rounded triangular thing he was using the iBrid around was the optional hood mounted hood tachometer😉
@@Zalagar619 they were factory options on Firebirds, GTO's and a few Grand Prix's even😉 My late, ex-boss had an all original 67' Firebird and it had it and I thought it was awesome 😎
God I’m so happy you’re finally getting the amount of subscribers you deserve!! I still think you deserve a million but Rome wasn’t built in a day!! I love you & your passion!!!!
Ahhh soft paint.. When it's good it's *very* good, when it's bad it's *very* bad. It's always fun to cut soft paint and this didn't look all that terrible to finish given how absurdly soft it is. Great work as always my dude, thanks for sharing it! 👍👌✌
Sir, i noticed you often use foam pad for paint correction (step 1 or cutting) and i follow your method, and i feel safer when i polish soft paint, and the result is very good same as when using wool pad, so thx sir
Absolutely stunning! Hopefully I’ll get to the same level as you in the future. I’ve just started out and what you said is true! Don’t let anybody tell you what to and what not to do. You will become a better you in the future with time and hard work. Keep doing what you do and stay safe!
Sandro mate you the best, it just goes to show, that experience taught by other professionals and teaching the right stuff will get you were you want to go in life, especially if your passion is car detailing? Well done mate keep up the great work. 🚗🚗🚗🚗🚗👌🙌😊👍
Hey man, it may seem a bit cynical but did you want to do a Q/A regarding your worst mistakes regarding detailing? You mentioned that we learn from our mistakes, and was wondering if you would be keen on making something around that? Love your videos ❤️
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I personally wouldn't mind. I believe it would show new comers to the detailing scene that there's always going to be hiccups, problems and most importantly learning along the way.
Delightful finish. I had a guitar repainted, that had incredibly soft paint, I couldn't do anything about it at the time, but sure wish I knew how to 'harden' it.
For all these I worked on/ drove / rode in - late 60 ‘s / early 70,s, that was better than showroom looking paint ( when you finished) Surprising, given what you had to work with, although I’ve seen worse, which you noted Anyway, awesome job on a great specimen. Def subbed
Maestro: A third video?!!!... now you like to punish us... Hahaha. A 'thank you' in not enough for all the knowledge and advise you share but thank you. Expecting the next vídeo... Recall to share the customer reaction. Wish you health and success. Greetings from Monterrey México 🇲🇽
I’m 100% with you on “how could a body shop turn out such a poor product?” Besides all of the sanding junk left behind, that clear looks to be so soft, that a few improper washes with that 6 month new paint, could have easily done half of that damage. Not saying the body shop did one of the worst jobs I’ve ever seen, but, it looks like just breathing on that paint, is going to scratch it. If you’re doing a full repaint, why in the world use soft clear? That clear should be like granite!
As always great video mate. Can you please make a video how to remove water spot or mineral deposits in the safest manner from car paint and glass Thanks
Awsome results! I am rigth now taking a break from polishing my 73 Firebird Formula, blieve it or not but my paint is supersoft too, hazing and scratching during wipeoff (Mazda cherry black mica code 28W). i am now on a pass with a finishing/waxing foampad and rupes uno pure on a shine mate DA. i can se the haze is gone where i made the passes. But scratches and some swirls are still present. I think i will still complete the rupes uno round and go back with rupes yellow wool and scholl S20 black for spot removal off deeper scratches. Kinda feel a bit defeted, but your video has given me a lot pointers.
It’s never easy working on soft paints that just mar so easily, so don’t be too hard on yourself, I’m sure it looks way better and that you’re learning heaps along the way!
Amazing result Sandro! I am sure everybody who is leaving his/her car to the bodyshop for repainting is dreaming to have it like this.... And yes, reality is "slightly" different. Can I ask you a question: why you are not covering wheels when doing paint correction stage? There a special wheel covers from CarPro or simple plastic bags from tire shop. I have never done it for my cars to be honest, but just curious to hear your reflection. We both (my wife and me) are waiting for the next Sandro Pictures movie for this series. This one was very good and we can just imagine how difficult it was for you despite quick recepy was found. Stay working and see you soon! Best wishes from Gothenburg, Sweden.
Thank you Sergey glad you and your wife enjoyed it and hope you also enjoy part 3! Yes I have the Carpro wheel covers and generally use them when I do wheels off details to protect them during paint correction. I guess I don’t put them on all details because I’m still going to do a final wipe and seal the wheels later on after the correction stage but it could actually be a good idea to use them more often and just limit dust getting onto them on every job! Thanks mate!
Great one Sandro. Really informative. Thankyou for sharing your wealth of knowledge and information and years of experience and expertise with us weekend warriors out here. I would venture to say that the majority of your viewers are enthusiasts looking to improve their ability to correct their own paint and your ability to convey useful and practical information goes without saying. It is much appreciated by everyone around the world. You reach an audience all over the planet. What is the difference between that small air powered polisher (which looks awesome by the way) and the Rupes iBrid Nano? I saw that you used both of them. It appeared that the iBrid was used in rotary mode and the air powered tool was used in DA mode. I am assuming that iBrid in rotary allows you to get right up to the very edge in very tight spaces? Does that air powered small polisher have more correcting power than the iBrid?
Thanks mate and yes the iBrid was used in rotary mode to get closer to the edges without that DA oscillation movement. The Rupes TA50 polisher is a 2” DA and a real beast of a little machine, but you do need quite a power air compressor to use it with about 500LPM. Although you can also use the iBrid in DA mode and it’s quite good with 1” pads, it just hasn’t got enough power for 2” pads in my opinion whereas the TA50 has plenty and is just worlds better power wise.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks for the info. Yeah, I have seen a few professional detailers using that TA50 and it does look like an incredible little polisher. Too bad they don't make it in an electric version. Looks like a great little tool and the perfect size too!
Oh I have been waiting for this! Absolutely stunning! Do you find the gloves help while polishing? I swear I think I have developed some tennis elbow from all the wipe off so trying to readjust and find things to help.
Thank you mate, and the gloves definitely help with reducing machine vibration so if you do a lot of polishing they could be a great option, but they can get a bit uncomfortable on hot days! They won’t help with tennis elbow but can help to reduce that buzzing feeling you can sometimes get on your hands.
Oh it's real. Try to use muscles and shoulders more than just your elbow when you're wiping. Kind of lock your elbow at a 90 degree angle, like a climber/gymnast L, and use some hips and shoulder to help move the towel. It's tougher on horizontal panels, but you can still take some stress off your elbows. I also forced myself to get comfortable with a towel in my left hand too. That way I can alternate arms. After a while that clumsy feeling goes away and it feels quite natural to wipe with either arm. Did the same with holding a polisher. I actually still use a lot of rotary, because it *is* very smooth and low impact on the body if everything is dialed in. I'm not a foam guy, and thin fiber pads on a long throw tend to be a rougher ride. I put a thick soft 5" plate on a little M550 compact. It's a joy to effortlessly cut with that light little machine. I never use heavy pressure so it handles the big pads just fine. That injury stuff scares me man. I don't want to be one of those guys who overworks and wears their body out and lives their retirement years hobbled up in constant pain. Noooo thank you. 🤕👎✌
Another great video Sandro love the mentoring and great life information you provide. Do you use the nano ibrid in rotary or da mode when cutting? Thanks
First time watching vids was just looking at vids for first gen fbodies. U turned the paint job from a 20 footer (looks good from 20 feet away) to a show finish. I bet that guy was super happy with those results. Question have a couple projects I plan on painting would u recommend taking to a paint corrector afterwards to do the first cut and buff or doing the first one myself and letting them fix it
I think if you have experience with sanding and you’re able to refine the sanding scratches well it would obviously save a lot of time and money compared to a detailer having to dry/wet sand and then compound and polish the whole vehicle which is quite expensive to do to a high level. But if you don’t feel confident in doing it or don’t do it well, then it will also be a lot of work for a detailer to refine the sanding marks before finishing the vehicle. But I don’t think there’s any harm in talking to some detailers before hand, it may help you decide which way to go!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok thanks. Going to try printing with cheap 25/qt paint first and just lay the clear on thick. The main 2 projects are motorcycles I can mess up and still have plenty left over hopefully
Awesome work Sandro. Question, in your experience will the paint cure to a harder finish over time or is it something the owner will have have to learn to deal with in terms of maintenance washes ect? Thanks PS. enjoy your coffee!
Thanks mate really appreciate the support! After 6 months - which is usually enough time for paint to fully cure - I wouldn’t expect too much of a change in terms of hardness, at that stage it is what it is in terms of hardness and just something you have to accept and deal with in my experience.
Amazing result and again S20 black rules supreme. Frustrating that you wipe your work and end up back at the start because of the soft paint. Not sure how ole mate is going to keep the paint in pristine condition given how soft and not very resilient to scratches. Is the paint a single stage or has a clear??? Well done Sandro
Yes, S20 saves the day again! Light swirls will be difficult to completely avoid but a good safe washing and maintenance routine will definitely help to keep them at bay! It was clear coated paint, and thanks mate!
Question: What is the reason for using a forced rotation pad with your polisher rather than the regular dual action/orbital polishing pad? Forced rotation pads have the extra bit of padding. Does it make a difference??
Yes... this is absolutely every single repainted car I have worked on. Repainted cars have extremely soft clear and frankly are pain to get to high level of detail, because basically just wiping them with microfiber induces more scratches. As for technique - simply use step softer pads then you would normally use and finish with finest possible polish and pad combo without nay pressure. As well as mentioned in the video, the best would be to use brand new MF... as it seems no matter how clean MF looks it will scratch soft repainted cars. I would tend to use "edge-less" MF in general as simple thread on the edge of MF could be enough to scratch it. If you don't have edge-less MF, then at least try to fold it in the way that no edges protrudes onto the paint. Other thing to note - I have never seen well polished cars out of the painters, they are always horribly scratched and full of cheap compound residues in every single crevice. I guess simple thing to say - painters focus on painting car, detailers on detailing. Most painters simply use rotary polisher for speed (instead of DA), hit the pain first with overly aggressive sand paper to remove obvious imperfections (flies, runs, touches, overspray ... you name it) and then runs over them with ton of cheap and aggressive compound on rotary, splattering it all over the car. Then quick wipe and buff with QD or some cheap silicone based wax to get good filling effect and shiny wet appearance for delivery. Once you wash the silicone off they always look like wreck. Just expect it! I would say that if anyone has any options - it better to ask paint shop not to touch the car at all after painting and the your detailer to do defect removal. This is because pain shops really try to do as fast as possible job when it comes to hiding their painting defects. Other thing to note - every repainted car will have defect. No car comes out of the booth perfect!
I LOVE this video. When you do your edge work what rpm range do you stay in? I feel like I need a new mini rotary because the one I have has a minimum speed of 1000rpm which feels too fast, also it's not variable trigger. I feel like to do safe edge work I really need variable trigger and ability to go more like 600rpm.
It really depends on the plate and pad size. The smaller you go the faster speeds you need in order to cut effectively. 1000rpm is actually a little slow for a 1” pad but probably decent for a 3” pad during cutting but you can certainly go much slower while finishing. Whereas on larger 5” and 6” pads 1000rpm is much more aggressive as it’s actually the outer edge of the pad that does the majority of the correction, so the large the pad the far more aggressive it is and slower speeds you should be using. Thanks mate and really glad you enjoyed the video!
It jumps massively for each size, but I guess generally 1” 2-5k rpm, 2” 1-3k rpm and 3” 500-2k rpm but it can certainly vary. I guess my favourite 1” rotary is the iBrid but I don’t feel it’s powerful enough for 2” pads so for 2” & 3” pad I tend to now use my Shine Mate cordless mini rotary which is really convenient.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing with your Shinemate cordless how many batteries are you needing? I know there are jobs where you must be using it for hours at a time. I was thinking of getting a Flex pxe80 but I just dont think the batteries last long enough. Maybe I need to look at the Shinemate battery mini. *edit* I'm not seeing a cordless mini on the Shinemate site, is it actually the ond that comes with 5" but you just use smaller plates on it?
so is the green pad stage sorta a 3 stage in certain areas ? and im guessing its softer then the blue foam pad. are you using it on rotary when you use the ibird nano and can you explain why? I only ask because I bought the ibird nano long neck and I was curious if we could get a deeper explanation when your using it.
The green Rupes pads where used in the first cutting stage on both the mini DAs and rotary because Lake Country doesn’t make 1” & 2” versions of those pads and Rupes are next closet thing. So it was still just a 2 stage correction not a 3 stage. I like the green Rupes pads but they just deteriorate way too fast and are extremely expensive! I went through a 4 pack of both 1” & 2” green pads even before I finished the car! That’s why I wish LC would make 1” & 2” versions of those pads because they are also much more durable than the Rupes.
Some detailers/enthusiasts also like using the Lake County Pad System 4000 pad washer: www.waxit.com.au/products/lake-country-pad-washer-3000?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX
Hello Sandro, Awesome video as usual thank you so much for providing such great auto detailing info. Can you tell me what would be a good topper to put on top of a graphing coated vehicle? Would nova jet be the best product in regards to Hydrophobicity? If there’s any others please let me know. Thank you. Gig
Thanks mate, and I guess Jet is still top of my list especially with hydrophobic behaviour and it usually plays well with most other coatings. But I guess the other option would be to go with the own brands topper or sealant from your coating as hopefully they’ve specifically tested their own sealants over their own coatings.
Sandro, Sorry if this question is off-topic but I’ve seen your videos on NV jet and Luster and basically what I got out of your video is that Jet is the more durable hydrophobic product. But now I’m confused because another TH-camr tested it and the Luster outperformed Jet. If you get a chance take a look at this and help me understand which is the more durable longer lasting product. Thank you and again I apologize if this is off topic th-cam.com/video/nEPgssZnHVc/w-d-xo.html Thanks, Gig
I get this question frequently with most products reviews I put up, where either other reviewers or the person commenting themselves have gotten different results. You’ll find different people getting different results and having different experiences with almost every detailing product out there. Preparation, technique, application, environment, testing and maintenance methods all play significant roles in how any product performs. I was recently researching a new set of tyres for my car and watched two reviews on a tyre I was considering that where completely conflicting and had two different sets of results in almost every area of testing! I know it can sometimes be frustrating but that’s just the way it goes many times and all we can do it try to use our own judgement to make a call.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Well stated! Completely makes sense even though it doesn’t make sense that there’s so many variables. With that said I would like to thank you for taking the time to answer my question and hope that I didn’t inconvenience you. Best regards, Gig
how many hours does a 1 and 2 step correction usually take you? I ask you because you a are as pedantic as I am. I have read alot in forums that theu do 1 car in 3 hours which feels waaaay to short for me as I do a standard detail in around 2 days.
It really depends on the level of work you’re pursuing, what the paint is like as well as the defects. I’ve done two stage corrections within a few hours and I’ve also done two stage corrections that took over a 100 hours. You really have to break each job down to what your goals are, your budget, time and what’s appropriate based on those factors.
10% equipment and product, 90% skill and Knowledge. Don't sell yourself short you have shown you are one of the masters of detailing. Awesome RESULT. I bet the customer was doing back flips. The company that painted the car should be called out. The customer paid good money for that paint job. Any reputable shop would not send any product out like that. Here in the U.S. we call them fly by night companies.
Appreciate that mate and it is a real shame that such a beautiful car that obviously has 100s if not 1000s of hours put into her would be finished in that way!
Find someone who treats you like this guy treats soft paint... this car is looking absolutelly gorgeous, amazing job!
Lol we all need that person in our lives that treats us well!
12:51 Thanks for adding that "ugly" part. Too many people think high end detailing always looks like "ahhh, he makes it look so easy and professional" when a lot of times, in the quest to chase perfection it looks more like "what the hell is he doing?", specially on old or just curvy and uncommon vehicles (like supercars, they can be SUCH a pain in the arse to deal with, with all their sharp edges and crevices). 16:58-17:10 Yeah, bonnets really HAVE to be presented at their best, even if the rest of the car isn't booked for a "perfect" or "gold package" treatment. 23:30 yeah, plus you don't have to mask most of it thanks to the trims being chrome. They actually benefit from a good polish. This car really turned out a treat Sandro, keep doin' what you're doin'.
There’s lots of ugly parts lol before you get to the gold! It’s not always easy trying to capture and project what the process is really like and what really goes into it and the hurdles you have to jump over but I’m trying to add more of that in each video. Thanks mate!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Yes people think it’s as easy as 1,2,3! But many times, we have to do many tasks in a very inefficient and suboptimal way just because there isn’t any other way to get access (with machines) in certain areas. Lots of elbow grease, lots of patience and some times some creativity.
Forensic sums up Sandro's work. 10/10
I love this series. Not only because of the great work but also because it uses the soundtrack of an 80's teen movie. Brings me back to my youth!
This video is so timely. I have a car I’m working on right now that is 8 years old and has never been washed properly. Not once. The excitement is there for turnaround’s sake, but the anxiety for what cannot be perfected or even improved is real.
What fascinates me about your videos is that despite all of the experience and wisdom, you focus more on the truth and challenges behind each job. And with over 2 decades behind you, to still highlight these things…it is what actually puts me at ease in the way of managing expectations.
This line of work (especially without a proper establishment) requires such an education to give to clients so that they are the ones whose expectations are realigned. It’s not that miracles can’t happen, but that they take 50 hours to occur.
Thank you again, Sandro.
If you don’t feel a little anxious when you’re trusted to work on someone’s pride and joy and they’re expecting a great result, you’re not human!
I always try to manage the customer’s expectations and keep them realistic in that it will never be perfect which is true, but I love to over deliver when possible, but I also accept that sometimes I simply can’t due to the circumstances.
Detailing and particularly high end detailing possess lots of challenges and constantly throws you curve balls which certainly keeps you on your toes and checks any cockiness you may have to bring you back down to earth in the realisation that you still have lots to learn no matter how long you’ve been doing this!
Hi There Professor !
You Put in Pratic The Meaning of Resilience !
! ! ! CONGRATS ONCE AGAIN ! ! !
Ed
São Paulo
Thank you my friend!!
Thanks to You, i have changed my approach to testing best combo to have less work during polishing /finishing stages! especially with softer paints! and very thin paints that we are seeing more & more of !! Love that Firebird, its one of my favourite models@
Really great to hear that mate, and I have to agree that that Firebird is such a beautiful car!
Hey Sandro! I pray you and the family are well. I’m really speechless right now…..This car looks absolutely amazing mate and you’re not even through with it yet. I’m about to go and view part 3 and I’ll have a Few cups of coffee for you when I’m done ✅
Really appreciate that Chad, God bless mate and hope you enjoy the entire series!
I've been waiting so long for a classic American car detail. This is so awesome
Glad you enjoyed it!
That is an awesome classic muscle car, and a very nice job thus far!
"The best paint job in the world means nothing if the finish looks like it was hacked by feral cats"
I am going to have to use that line!
This is the closest I will get to seeing a Renaissance Artist work . Always an inspiration buddy.
I guess you will have to be gentle with the application of the protection too? I can not think of anyone else who could have done this job better. You made an absolutely fantastic job here. I am amazed. The bonnet looks like liquid metal.
Take care.
Thanks mate, and yes the protection stage definitely also required a light touch!
Just proves time and time again, why I wouldn't let anyone else correct my car other than Sandro. Of course I'd do it myself.....but then again, I know Sandro would do an even better job! Well done mate, and your advice during the video, is invaluable. Your honesty and experience makes you a true master, and you really deserve to have 10x the subscribers you currently have. You look like you need a coffee!
Thank you mate always appreciate your support you’re a gentleman!
"Monster sized bonnet", can't wait till he does a 1970-72 Monte Carlo😆😆😆
Good one, Klasse. 😉
Previous vehicles in my family were a '68 Camaro convertible and a '72 Malibu convertible. There is most certainly a difference in size between F-body and A-body hoods!🙂
Come for the details, stay for the life lessons. Great to see the restoration project visually come back to life, and to such a high level that the owner will surely be very pleased!
Very impressed mate! A living benchmark for detailers, thanks for sharing your amazing work and knowledge!
Really nice to hear that mate, thank you and my absolute pleasure!
Feral cats! ha ha lmao...
Love the production on this one.
Awesome video as always.
After watching your video, I also bought a da with rupes wool polishing pad in yellow and blue, lake country HDO in blue, although I don’t understand English, thank you for your instruction
What a great finish on a very troubled paint. They are very few detailers that show test spots, this process gives us the best information about the paint and how we are going to approach the rest of the car in a safe manner. I have been detailing for 10 years. My first lesson with the buff was a 15 minute lesson with the boss. Nothing was said about heat, speed of polisher, or cleaning out your pad after every pass After 4 years of doing it all wrong i went on a deep dive in trying to learn polishing on my own time and have never stopped learning When i think back on it now I know how badly i let down the customer buying that car I have a strict time limit on cars so that limits me straight away I work for a dealership so its all about time I buy my own pads and compounds I have made every mistake you talk about. The way i look at it now is MISTAKES HAVE THE POWER TO TURN YOU INTO SOMETHING BETTER THAN YOU WERE BEFORE. So dont beat yourself up about it learn from it and move on ITs about changing your mind set One great detailer said when you approach paint corection you have to learn how to do it safely, efficiently and effectively wise words from Sandro Cant wait for part 3 In sandro we trust on different note sandro take a look at Ben Abraham he is a singer songwriter for australia woth a list I think you will like him
Thanks Bob, always appreciate your very thoughtful and insightful comments mate! I think I was a year or two into detailing before I even understood the difference between a polish and wax but when I think back, I don’t think the people teaching knew themselves! I guess every person goes through that learning curve. We certainly don’t all have the same time and cost restraints but it sounds like you make a huge effort to do the best in your situation which is all any of us can ask!
I’ll certainly checkout that artist and hopefully if he’s on Artist I’ll be able to use some of his tracks!
Thanks mate!
So many enlightening lessons, and great advise to learn from these series. This one was no exception - Thanks again Sandro, absolutely thrilled for this customer.
Thanks mate, great to hear you enjoy it!
I am always amazed at the level of skill and workmanship you display in your details. I am just as impressed in your video quality and editing. I look forward to every video. Outstanding work!!!! Thank you!
Same paint that’s on my dads 57 tbird. Soft as butter. Wiping with ipa will make noticeable haze going in the direction of the wipe. I still haven’t found the perfect combo of pad and polish. Thought it was carpro essence until I realized it was just fillers making it look that good. Left a fair bit of haze on its own
Wow, that's some crazy feral cat scratch wrangling right there ! Ah-mazing result 👀
Simply brilliant once more Sandro. Love the new intro animation. Lloyd
Thanks Lloyd appreciate it mate!
Perfect video for my Sunday evening before detailing cars tomorrow :D
Very nice new opener Sandro!
Your work ethic and passion are truly inspiring, your skill and knowledge is mind blowing so thanks again for this incredible transformation.
Thanks Brenton, really hope you enjoy this whole series mate!
Complete legend my man! You have the highest quality videos, detail oriented, and educational beyond anyone else’s videos! Keep up the great work! You’re an inspiration to us for detail work my friend.
Thank you mate!
Excellent video Sandro!
For the overseas viewers who might be wondering, that rounded triangular thing he was using the iBrid around was the optional hood mounted hood tachometer😉
Thanks! I figured as much, but it threw me off for a bit.
@@Zalagar619 they were factory options on Firebirds, GTO's and a few Grand Prix's even😉 My late, ex-boss had an all original 67' Firebird and it had it and I thought it was awesome 😎
I wish I was as skilled as this guy is
God I’m so happy you’re finally getting the amount of subscribers you deserve!! I still think you deserve a million but Rome wasn’t built in a day!! I love you & your passion!!!!
Thanks so much mate, really nice to hear that!
Killer collab would be you, Ammo NYC and White Details. 💪🏽👊🏽👍🏽😁
Outstanding mate! 😎🤙🏼☕️
Best detailing channel ever. You give so good and detailed lessons. Great work.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video and this series. Thank you so much for putting these videos together. Your the best my friend.
love the new intro mate, super smooth...
Waited for this vid! Your knowledge and skills are top notch. One of my favorite detailing channels.
Appreciate that mate!
that new intro is fire
Love the new intro, Sandro. Very nice work!
Love the new intro! Fantastic video and results once again
Amazing work Sandro! 👏🏻
Sick, been waiting for this vid. Your a legend mate.
Ahhh soft paint.. When it's good it's *very* good, when it's bad it's *very* bad. It's always fun to cut soft paint and this didn't look all that terrible to finish given how absurdly soft it is. Great work as always my dude, thanks for sharing it! 👍👌✌
Wow! You sir are very talented.
03:10 amazing 05:09 amazing
loved the "ferral cats" remark! lmao!
Detailing at it's best.
Sir, i noticed you often use foam pad for paint correction (step 1 or cutting) and i follow your method, and i feel safer when i polish soft paint, and the result is very good same as when using wool pad, so thx sir
Great to hear that, and on soft paints you’re generally find that foam is a safer option that also makes the next refinement stage much much easier.
That's me sorted for 40min. Thanks
Absolutely stunning! Hopefully I’ll get to the same level as you in the future. I’ve just started out and what you said is true! Don’t let anybody tell you what to and what not to do. You will become a better you in the future with time and hard work.
Keep doing what you do and stay safe!
Outstanding!
Sandro mate you the best, it just goes to show, that experience taught by other professionals and teaching the right stuff will get you were you want to go in life, especially if your passion is car detailing? Well done mate keep up the great work. 🚗🚗🚗🚗🚗👌🙌😊👍
Love the coin. My cousin at DARPA gets to support the Teams, and was kind enough to get me that same coin. It’s socked-away, and never carried…
Hey man, it may seem a bit cynical but did you want to do a Q/A regarding your worst mistakes regarding detailing? You mentioned that we learn from our mistakes, and was wondering if you would be keen on making something around that? Love your videos ❤️
Sure, I don’t mind doing through some failures and learning experiences if there’s a bit of interest there.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I personally wouldn't mind. I believe it would show new comers to the detailing scene that there's always going to be hiccups, problems and most importantly learning along the way.
Delightful finish. I had a guitar repainted, that had incredibly soft paint, I couldn't do anything about it at the time, but sure wish I knew how to 'harden' it.
For all these I worked on/ drove / rode in - late 60 ‘s / early 70,s, that was better than showroom looking paint ( when you finished) Surprising, given what you had to work with, although I’ve seen worse, which you noted Anyway, awesome job on a great specimen. Def subbed
very good job! amazing!
Maestro: A third video?!!!... now you like to punish us... Hahaha.
A 'thank you' in not enough for all the knowledge and advise you share but thank you. Expecting the next vídeo... Recall to share the customer reaction. Wish you health and success. Greetings from Monterrey México 🇲🇽
Thank you Alberto, my best wishes to you and your family as well mate!
Awesome work man, wish you were in Sydney, I'd give you my Firebird for some paint resto 😄👍
Great work!
Awesome 👏 !!!
Truly the best
I’m 100% with you on “how could a body shop turn out such a poor product?” Besides all of the sanding junk left behind, that clear looks to be so soft, that a few improper washes with that 6 month new paint, could have easily done half of that damage. Not saying the body shop did one of the worst jobs I’ve ever seen, but, it looks like just breathing on that paint, is going to scratch it. If you’re doing a full repaint, why in the world use soft clear? That clear should be like granite!
As always great video mate.
Can you please make a video how to remove water spot or mineral deposits in the safest manner from car paint and glass
Thanks
Awsome results! I am rigth now taking a break from polishing my 73 Firebird Formula, blieve it or not but my paint is supersoft too, hazing and scratching during wipeoff (Mazda cherry black mica code 28W). i am now on a pass with a finishing/waxing foampad and rupes uno pure on a shine mate DA. i can se the haze is gone where i made the passes. But scratches and some swirls are still present. I think i will still complete the rupes uno round and go back with rupes yellow wool and scholl S20 black for spot removal off deeper scratches. Kinda feel a bit defeted, but your video has given me a lot pointers.
It’s never easy working on soft paints that just mar so easily, so don’t be too hard on yourself, I’m sure it looks way better and that you’re learning heaps along the way!
Amazing result Sandro! I am sure everybody who is leaving his/her car to the bodyshop for repainting is dreaming to have it like this.... And yes, reality is "slightly" different. Can I ask you a question: why you are not covering wheels when doing paint correction stage? There a special wheel covers from CarPro or simple plastic bags from tire shop. I have never done it for my cars to be honest, but just curious to hear your reflection. We both (my wife and me) are waiting for the next Sandro Pictures movie for this series. This one was very good and we can just imagine how difficult it was for you despite quick recepy was found. Stay working and see you soon! Best wishes from Gothenburg, Sweden.
Thank you Sergey glad you and your wife enjoyed it and hope you also enjoy part 3! Yes I have the Carpro wheel covers and generally use them when I do wheels off details to protect them during paint correction. I guess I don’t put them on all details because I’m still going to do a final wipe and seal the wheels later on after the correction stage but it could actually be a good idea to use them more often and just limit dust getting onto them on every job! Thanks mate!
Great thanks man
Great one Sandro. Really informative. Thankyou for sharing your wealth of knowledge and information and years of experience and expertise with us weekend warriors out here. I would venture to say that the majority of your viewers are enthusiasts looking to improve their ability to correct their own paint and your ability to convey useful and practical information goes without saying. It is much appreciated by everyone around the world. You reach an audience all over the planet.
What is the difference between that small air powered polisher (which looks awesome by the way) and the Rupes iBrid Nano? I saw that you used both of them. It appeared that the iBrid was used in rotary mode and the air powered tool was used in DA mode. I am assuming that iBrid in rotary allows you to get right up to the very edge in very tight spaces? Does that air powered small polisher have more correcting power than the iBrid?
Thanks mate and yes the iBrid was used in rotary mode to get closer to the edges without that DA oscillation movement. The Rupes TA50 polisher is a 2” DA and a real beast of a little machine, but you do need quite a power air compressor to use it with about 500LPM. Although you can also use the iBrid in DA mode and it’s quite good with 1” pads, it just hasn’t got enough power for 2” pads in my opinion whereas the TA50 has plenty and is just worlds better power wise.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks for the info. Yeah, I have seen a few professional detailers using that TA50 and it does look like an incredible little polisher. Too bad they don't make it in an electric version. Looks like a great little tool and the perfect size too!
Oh I have been waiting for this! Absolutely stunning! Do you find the gloves help while polishing? I swear I think I have developed some tennis elbow from all the wipe off so trying to readjust and find things to help.
Thank you mate, and the gloves definitely help with reducing machine vibration so if you do a lot of polishing they could be a great option, but they can get a bit uncomfortable on hot days! They won’t help with tennis elbow but can help to reduce that buzzing feeling you can sometimes get on your hands.
Oh it's real. Try to use muscles and shoulders more than just your elbow when you're wiping. Kind of lock your elbow at a 90 degree angle, like a climber/gymnast L, and use some hips and shoulder to help move the towel. It's tougher on horizontal panels, but you can still take some stress off your elbows. I also forced myself to get comfortable with a towel in my left hand too. That way I can alternate arms. After a while that clumsy feeling goes away and it feels quite natural to wipe with either arm. Did the same with holding a polisher.
I actually still use a lot of rotary, because it *is* very smooth and low impact on the body if everything is dialed in. I'm not a foam guy, and thin fiber pads on a long throw tend to be a rougher ride. I put a thick soft 5" plate on a little M550 compact. It's a joy to effortlessly cut with that light little machine. I never use heavy pressure so it handles the big pads just fine.
That injury stuff scares me man. I don't want to be one of those guys who overworks and wears their body out and lives their retirement years hobbled up in constant pain. Noooo thank you. 🤕👎✌
@@jdisdetermined yea I only do this part time thankfully but not sure if this happened from detailing or just life in general. Appreciate the info.
Another great video Sandro love the mentoring and great life information you provide. Do you use the nano ibrid in rotary or da mode when cutting? Thanks
Thank mate and I use it in both modes but in that video it was mostly in rotary mode.
Absolutely amazing talent given from God.
Did you use the ibrid in rotary mode? I couldn’t tell.
Thanks mate and yes, on that job my iBrid was in rotary mode with the rotary extender bar.
First time watching vids was just looking at vids for first gen fbodies. U turned the paint job from a 20 footer (looks good from 20 feet away) to a show finish. I bet that guy was super happy with those results. Question have a couple projects I plan on painting would u recommend taking to a paint corrector afterwards to do the first cut and buff or doing the first one myself and letting them fix it
I think if you have experience with sanding and you’re able to refine the sanding scratches well it would obviously save a lot of time and money compared to a detailer having to dry/wet sand and then compound and polish the whole vehicle which is quite expensive to do to a high level. But if you don’t feel confident in doing it or don’t do it well, then it will also be a lot of work for a detailer to refine the sanding marks before finishing the vehicle. But I don’t think there’s any harm in talking to some detailers before hand, it may help you decide which way to go!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing ok thanks. Going to try printing with cheap 25/qt paint first and just lay the clear on thick. The main 2 projects are motorcycles I can mess up and still have plenty left over hopefully
Awesome work Sandro.
Question, in your experience will the paint cure to a harder finish over time or is it something the owner will have have to learn to deal with in terms of maintenance washes ect?
Thanks
PS. enjoy your coffee!
Thanks mate really appreciate the support! After 6 months - which is usually enough time for paint to fully cure - I wouldn’t expect too much of a change in terms of hardness, at that stage it is what it is in terms of hardness and just something you have to accept and deal with in my experience.
This is going to be good! :D
Hope you enjoy it!
Amazing result and again S20 black rules supreme. Frustrating that you wipe your work and end up back at the start because of the soft paint. Not sure how ole mate is going to keep the paint in pristine condition given how soft and not very resilient to scratches. Is the paint a single stage or has a clear??? Well done Sandro
Yes, S20 saves the day again! Light swirls will be difficult to completely avoid but a good safe washing and maintenance routine will definitely help to keep them at bay! It was clear coated paint, and thanks mate!
Question: What is the reason for using a forced rotation pad with your polisher rather than the regular dual action/orbital polishing pad? Forced rotation pads have the extra bit of padding. Does it make a difference??
I wasn’t using forced rotation pads - The lake county HDO and Rupes pads where long throw DA pads.
Yes... this is absolutely every single repainted car I have worked on. Repainted cars have extremely soft clear and frankly are pain to get to high level of detail, because basically just wiping them with microfiber induces more scratches. As for technique - simply use step softer pads then you would normally use and finish with finest possible polish and pad combo without nay pressure. As well as mentioned in the video, the best would be to use brand new MF... as it seems no matter how clean MF looks it will scratch soft repainted cars. I would tend to use "edge-less" MF in general as simple thread on the edge of MF could be enough to scratch it. If you don't have edge-less MF, then at least try to fold it in the way that no edges protrudes onto the paint.
Other thing to note - I have never seen well polished cars out of the painters, they are always horribly scratched and full of cheap compound residues in every single crevice. I guess simple thing to say - painters focus on painting car, detailers on detailing. Most painters simply use rotary polisher for speed (instead of DA), hit the pain first with overly aggressive sand paper to remove obvious imperfections (flies, runs, touches, overspray ... you name it) and then runs over them with ton of cheap and aggressive compound on rotary, splattering it all over the car. Then quick wipe and buff with QD or some cheap silicone based wax to get good filling effect and shiny wet appearance for delivery. Once you wash the silicone off they always look like wreck. Just expect it! I would say that if anyone has any options - it better to ask paint shop not to touch the car at all after painting and the your detailer to do defect removal. This is because pain shops really try to do as fast as possible job when it comes to hiding their painting defects. Other thing to note - every repainted car will have defect. No car comes out of the booth perfect!
I love the work, explanations and the results. Cheers! Do you wear the gloves for anti vibration?
Thanks and yes.
I finally know what Ted Nugent wrote his song about.
Car Scratch Fever? Lol
I LOVE this video. When you do your edge work what rpm range do you stay in? I feel like I need a new mini rotary because the one I have has a minimum speed of 1000rpm which feels too fast, also it's not variable trigger. I feel like to do safe edge work I really need variable trigger and ability to go more like 600rpm.
It really depends on the plate and pad size. The smaller you go the faster speeds you need in order to cut effectively. 1000rpm is actually a little slow for a 1” pad but probably decent for a 3” pad during cutting but you can certainly go much slower while finishing. Whereas on larger 5” and 6” pads 1000rpm is much more aggressive as it’s actually the outer edge of the pad that does the majority of the correction, so the large the pad the far more aggressive it is and slower speeds you should be using.
Thanks mate and really glad you enjoyed the video!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you! What rpm range do you usually run with 1"-3" with? What's your favorite 1"-3" machine?
It jumps massively for each size, but I guess generally 1” 2-5k rpm, 2” 1-3k rpm and 3” 500-2k rpm but it can certainly vary.
I guess my favourite 1” rotary is the iBrid but I don’t feel it’s powerful enough for 2” pads so for 2” & 3” pad I tend to now use my Shine Mate cordless mini rotary which is really convenient.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing with your Shinemate cordless how many batteries are you needing? I know there are jobs where you must be using it for hours at a time. I was thinking of getting a Flex pxe80 but I just dont think the batteries last long enough. Maybe I need to look at the Shinemate battery mini. *edit* I'm not seeing a cordless mini on the Shinemate site, is it actually the ond that comes with 5" but you just use smaller plates on it?
so is the green pad stage sorta a 3 stage in certain areas ? and im guessing its softer then the blue foam pad. are you using it on rotary when you use the ibird nano and can you explain why? I only ask because I bought the ibird nano long neck and I was curious if we could get a deeper explanation when your using it.
The green Rupes pads where used in the first cutting stage on both the mini DAs and rotary because Lake Country doesn’t make 1” & 2” versions of those pads and Rupes are next closet thing. So it was still just a 2 stage correction not a 3 stage. I like the green Rupes pads but they just deteriorate way too fast and are extremely expensive! I went through a 4 pack of both 1” & 2” green pads even before I finished the car! That’s why I wish LC would make 1” & 2” versions of those pads because they are also much more durable than the Rupes.
Thanks brother I've been watching for couple years now and your my favorite detailer. Much love!
How long were you holding your breath for each time you took off a piece of tape? I know I was!
Lol, lots of deep breaths!
What kind of soap do you use for the paint?
That was covered in part one, it was Nv Snow Plus🙂
How can I clean my pad without compressed air? I tried the brush but I wasn’t too happy.
Some detailers/enthusiasts also like using the Lake County Pad System 4000 pad washer: www.waxit.com.au/products/lake-country-pad-washer-3000?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX
I'm just curious why did you pick Scholl and not Sonex or 3D? Maybe because you had a lot of success with that particular brand?
Yes, I’ve been using S20 since it first came out and at least for me it’s always performed exceptionally well.
Hello Sandro,
Awesome video as usual thank you so much for providing such great auto detailing info.
Can you tell me what would be a good topper to put on top of a graphing coated vehicle? Would nova jet be the best product in regards to Hydrophobicity? If there’s any others please let me know. Thank you.
Gig
Thanks mate, and I guess Jet is still top of my list especially with hydrophobic behaviour and it usually plays well with most other coatings. But I guess the other option would be to go with the own brands topper or sealant from your coating as hopefully they’ve specifically tested their own sealants over their own coatings.
Thank you so much Sandro, you’re awesome!
Sandro,
Sorry if this question is off-topic but I’ve seen your videos on NV jet and Luster and basically what I got out of your video is that Jet is the more durable hydrophobic product. But now I’m confused because another TH-camr tested it and the Luster outperformed Jet. If you get a chance take a look at this and help me understand which is the more durable longer lasting product. Thank you and again I apologize if this is off topic
th-cam.com/video/nEPgssZnHVc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, Gig
I get this question frequently with most products reviews I put up, where either other reviewers or the person commenting themselves have gotten different results. You’ll find different people getting different results and having different experiences with almost every detailing product out there. Preparation, technique, application, environment, testing and maintenance methods all play significant roles in how any product performs.
I was recently researching a new set of tyres for my car and watched two reviews on a tyre I was considering that where completely conflicting and had two different sets of results in almost every area of testing! I know it can sometimes be frustrating but that’s just the way it goes many times and all we can do it try to use our own judgement to make a call.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing
Well stated! Completely makes sense even though it doesn’t make sense that there’s so many variables. With that said I would like to thank you for taking the time to answer my question and hope that I didn’t inconvenience you.
Best regards, Gig
Where can I find a good 3" pad?
firebirddd yahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
doing something is better than do nothing
2:55 Was that from the tape?
hacked by feral cats, like the lady from the Simpsons, LMFAO really, :)
how many hours does a 1 and 2 step correction usually take you? I ask you because you a are as pedantic as I am. I have read alot in forums that theu do 1 car in 3 hours which feels waaaay to short for me as I do a standard detail in around 2 days.
It really depends on the level of work you’re pursuing, what the paint is like as well as the defects. I’ve done two stage corrections within a few hours and I’ve also done two stage corrections that took over a 100 hours. You really have to break each job down to what your goals are, your budget, time and what’s appropriate based on those factors.
machine is Ro or DA?
Hi sandro hope your OK you sound full of cold
Only if my dentist can clean and polish cars teeth like you can cars wow
Lol, I’m well mate but definitely due for a good teeth clean!
4th