Constant spring clamps are the better of the two. Hands down. There's a reason vehicle manufacturers use them even on fuel lines (carbureted vehicles) The material of the fitting under the hose will expand and shrink with temperature. (Radiator inlet/outlet water neck etc.). Spring clamps will slightly expand and contract while keeping constant clamping force. It can not be over tightened and don't need retightening over time like a worm clamp.
Thank you BundysGarage for that hose clamp release tip. I'm 59 and have worked on cars since the 80's and never did i figure that one out. Put screwdriver in the slot and twist. Armando from Miami, sending you a great big thank you.
Worm gear is easier to use no doubt, but they are terrible for hoses. Spring clamps allow for expansion and contraction while maintaining a constant tension. Worm gear are also dependent on the user, most will over-tighten them. No guesswork with a spring clamp. I'd use worm gear for things that don't change temperature much but not in an engine bay.
When you have to put a spring clamp in a difficult to access place you can open the clamp on the bench and put a small zip tie on it. Then when you have the clamp in the right place you just reach in with side cutters or knife and cut the cable tie. Or use that handy tool if you have one.
@teagar3 0 seconds ago As a Mechanic from the 70s & 80s, I saw a variety of coolant hose clamps. They do make a variety of different Worm Drive Clamps. The Slotted Worm Drive Hose Clamp has been around since 1918, and it is the most common hose clamp found in Automotive parts stores. Japanese Cars in the 70s & 80s used a double Wire Worm Drive Hose Clamp. I saw other clamps like the Tower Hose Clamp & EAR Hose Clamps (probably the worst clamps ever), & the Single Wire Spring Clamp. In the 70s & 80s my preference was the slotted Worm Drive Clamp. Today however, I prefer to use a Band Spring Clamp because automotive coolant systems are constantly fluxing from Cold To Hot, and back to Cold again, there is some expansion and contraction happening with the coolant hoses due to this nature. The Band Spring Clamp will provide a long-lasting constant tension on the hoses. I do keep for emergency use only some slotted worm drive clamps in my truck, just in case. The pros and cons of slotted Worm Drive Clamps vs Band Spring Clamps - People tend to over tighten the Worm Drive Clamps until rubber is sticking out of the slots. This actually damages the hose, and if the clamp is removed and reinstalled it will have a hard time sealing. Worm Drive Clamps do no fluctuate with the expansion and contraction of coolant systems. Band Spring Clamps you don't have to worry about over tightening. Spring clamps will keep a constant pressure around the hose whether the engine is cold or hot.
The first "problem" with wormgear clamps is their great variety of quality designs. Get the better quality clamps (the ones that are not perforated completely through). The second "problem" with the wormgear clamps is that people don't use the right torque...usually 'way too much torque. Regarding temperature changes, remember that the rubber hose actually acts as a thick rubber gasket on the sealing surface. Like any other rubber gasket, it doesn't require super pressure, because the rubber "absorbs" the temperature changes as long as you have put the rubber under sufficient tension. The smaller sizes only need about 20 inch-pounds; the larger ones only need about 50 inch-pounds.
I use worm gear type. As long as you tighten them correctly, you hardly ever need to re-tighten. I've had issues with the spring clamps where they allowed coolant to leak. They must be of the correct size for the application, whereas the worm gear types can be larger in diameter and still work. The biggest advantage of the worm gear clamp is that you do not have to disconnect the pluming to install/remove, whereas the spring clamp requires disconnecting the plumbing. I mainly use products sold at McMaster-Carr, as they carry worm gear clamps with flat surfaces.
I'll take the worm drive all day. Because if a factory clamp is wore out or broken I can pick a worm drive clamp up any where, They can be removed and tightened by multiple tools, screw driver, nut driver, wrench, vice grips, the list goes on and on, I don't have to remove anything to put them on in most cases and they are very cheap and can be found in any size. That's another thing 1 worm drive can be made to fit multiple sizes easily.
I've seen the stainless clamps leak and now I'm contending what one should I install on my 90 corvette and it was a bear to remove the factory clamp because the hose swelled over time However the factory clamp has a lug / slot to secure hose from coming off of the nob on the radiator.
Over-torquing any connection will break it. That's a user error. Plumbers use a fixed-torque wrench to tighten worm clamps for permanent plumbing waste uses.
Constant spring clamps are the better of the two. Hands down. There's a reason vehicle manufacturers use them even on fuel lines (carbureted vehicles)
The material of the fitting under the hose will expand and shrink with temperature. (Radiator inlet/outlet water neck etc.). Spring clamps will slightly expand and contract while keeping constant clamping force. It can not be over tightened and don't need retightening over time like a worm clamp.
The reason vehicle manufacturers use them because they're cheaper and can be easily handled on an assembly line by a robot.
Thank you BundysGarage for that hose clamp release tip. I'm 59 and have worked on cars since the 80's and never did i figure that one out. Put screwdriver in the slot and twist. Armando from Miami, sending you a great big thank you.
Worm gear is easier to use no doubt, but they are terrible for hoses. Spring clamps allow for expansion and contraction while maintaining a constant tension. Worm gear are also dependent on the user, most will over-tighten them. No guesswork with a spring clamp. I'd use worm gear for things that don't change temperature much but not in an engine bay.
When you have to put a spring clamp in a difficult to access place you can open the clamp on the bench and put a small zip tie on it. Then when you have the clamp in the right place you just reach in with side cutters or knife and cut the cable tie. Or use that handy tool if you have one.
Zip Ties, should be in every toolbox across America!
@teagar3
0 seconds ago
As a Mechanic from the 70s & 80s, I saw a variety of coolant hose clamps. They do make a variety of different Worm Drive Clamps. The Slotted Worm Drive Hose Clamp has been around since 1918, and it is the most common hose clamp found in Automotive parts stores. Japanese Cars in the 70s & 80s used a double Wire Worm Drive Hose Clamp. I saw other clamps like the Tower Hose Clamp & EAR Hose Clamps (probably the worst clamps ever), & the Single Wire Spring Clamp. In the 70s & 80s my preference was the slotted Worm Drive Clamp. Today however, I prefer to use a Band Spring Clamp because automotive coolant systems are constantly fluxing from Cold To Hot, and back to Cold again, there is some expansion and contraction happening with the coolant hoses due to this nature. The Band Spring Clamp will provide a long-lasting constant tension on the hoses. I do keep for emergency use only some slotted worm drive clamps in my truck, just in case. The pros and cons of slotted Worm Drive Clamps vs Band Spring Clamps - People tend to over tighten the Worm Drive Clamps until rubber is sticking out of the slots. This actually damages the hose, and if the clamp is removed and reinstalled it will have a hard time sealing. Worm Drive Clamps do no fluctuate with the expansion and contraction of coolant systems. Band Spring Clamps you don't have to worry about over tightening. Spring clamps will keep a constant pressure around the hose whether the engine is cold or hot.
The first "problem" with wormgear clamps is their great variety of quality designs. Get the better quality clamps (the ones that are not perforated completely through). The second "problem" with the wormgear clamps is that people don't use the right torque...usually 'way too much torque. Regarding temperature changes, remember that the rubber hose actually acts as a thick rubber gasket on the sealing surface. Like any other rubber gasket, it doesn't require super pressure, because the rubber "absorbs" the temperature changes as long as you have put the rubber under sufficient tension. The smaller sizes only need about 20 inch-pounds; the larger ones only need about 50 inch-pounds.
I use worm gear type. As long as you tighten them correctly, you hardly ever need to re-tighten. I've had issues with the spring clamps where they allowed coolant to leak. They must be of the correct size for the application, whereas the worm gear types can be larger in diameter and still work.
The biggest advantage of the worm gear clamp is that you do not have to disconnect the pluming to install/remove, whereas the spring clamp requires disconnecting the plumbing. I mainly use products sold at McMaster-Carr, as they carry worm gear clamps with flat surfaces.
I'll take the worm drive all day. Because if a factory clamp is wore out or broken I can pick a worm drive clamp up any where, They can be removed and tightened by multiple tools, screw driver, nut driver, wrench, vice grips, the list goes on and on, I don't have to remove anything to put them on in most cases and they are very cheap and can be found in any size. That's another thing 1 worm drive can be made to fit multiple sizes easily.
I've seen the stainless clamps leak and now I'm contending what one should I install on my 90 corvette and it was a bear to remove the factory clamp because the hose swelled over time However the factory clamp has a lug / slot to secure hose from coming off of the nob on the radiator.
The Worm drive can break plastic radiator inlets.
Over-torquing any connection will break it. That's a user error. Plumbers use a fixed-torque wrench to tighten worm clamps for permanent plumbing waste uses.
The factory clamp