HOW TO: Proper Automotive Sound Treatment - Part 3 - Door Cards
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2021
- Buckle up, it's a long video.
In this one I cover not only how I'm treating the door cards of the Stereo Integrity Audi, but also how you can keep from causing maintenance issues like those I found (and fixed) in this video.
The primary goals of treating this door card were to add mass and to decouple the door card from the inner door skin. Another thing I accomplished with the foam pour was to ensure that sound produced by the midbass didn't leak into the area between the door card and inner door skin.
End result? A door card that tips the scales at 19.2lbs, doesn't vibrate/resonate/rattle, and blocks exterior road noise.
Products Used:
Second Skin Damplifier Pro: www.secondskinaudio.com/sound...
US Composites Urethane Expanding Foam (16 lb density): uscomposites.com/foam.html
Terminal Release Tool Set: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro: www.secondskinaudio.com/sound...
Second Skin Overkill: www.secondskinaudio.com/sound... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Man thank you so much for doing this series. I have learned so much about deadening and the techniques. Simple , straightforward, and pro level information broken down to the layman level. Can't thank you enough. I am building a 2006 Scion xB out for loud sq as a daily driver. This knowledge will make the difference.
Dude this is one of the most complete, BEST sound deadening video I’ve seen to date. Thanks for making it
Gotta love that thorough, in depth description of whats being done, and the thought process behind these actions. Thank you for taking the time to do this, record it, and sharing this. Aloha
Thank you for taking the time and making these videos.
Watching this makes realize the Booming rattling sounds I hear from kids cars are the mark of amateurs
when all of the budget goes to subs amps and a scosche wiring kit what do you expect? lol
And the gain turned up all the way to the point of major distortion and clipping because bRo CaN yOu hEaR mY SuBwOoFeRs
Man, @ 27:30 You were making me nervous with that razor in you're hand! Then you put it down and whew! Lol Great work though! Using the lead sheet, that is something new to me. I usually make block off panels with abs or hdpe. Keep these videos coming! I really appreciate correct and thorough information. Which sadly, is not the case with many content providers.
Awesome video - thanks for sharing the process.
Good videos. Can't wait till u do my escalade buddy.
@Batdog Garage
I think that you should separate the segment about rewiring the doors and de-pinning & re-pinning the body-to-door wiring harness and upload that as a separate video with a proper title.
As it is, it's very useful information. HOWEVER, it is very likely that it will not be found or viewed & appreciated in the future because there is absolutely no indication or description of this in your video's Title and it would not show up in a SEARCH.
Make it a separate video with a Title such as, "HOW TO: Car Stereo/Audio Door Speaker Wiring, De-Pinning & Re-Pinning the OEM Body-to-Door Wiring Harness & Connectors, to Install a 2-way or 3-way Speaker Component System", or something to that effect.
And CAVEAT EMPTOR:
Always Check your DRIVER'S SIDE body-to-door wiring connector harness FIRST to see IF or How Many open or usable spaces are available to add to or Re-Pin the harness.
If your vehicle is the highest trim level with the most options (i.e. the "Limited Edition", etc,), ALL of the connections and pin locations may already be in use for OEM functions. So there may not be any available unused pin locations in the Driver's Side door wiring harness.
The same harnesses/connectors are used for both the Left & Right Doors. If you start with the Passenger Side Door first, it will always have a few unused pin & wiring locations available because it will never have as many controls or functions as the Driver's Side Door.
But when you go to start modifying the Driver's side door, you my be S.O.L. because all of the pin locations may already be filled and in use, or maybe just 2 are available when you need 4.
These normally unused or "extra" pin locations in the door wiring connector harness may be used for optional heated and/or or power-folding side view mirrors, seat and/or mirror memory presets, powered rear windows in pickup trucks, etc.
If your vehicle doesn't have all of the extra options or isn't the highest trim level, there is a good chance that there will at least be a few open or unused pin or wiring locations in the harness. But Always check the Driver's Side Door FIRST.
This is useful info as well, so thanks for sharing that. I agree about making the rewiring through the door as a separate video, or obviously make a new video on a different car for the same task. At the least, edit descriptions on existing viddeos, with a link to this video, and timestamp location of said task. Good point you've brought to attention.
Nice
Great video. Would it make any difference if you had the MLV side of the Luxury Liner facing up?
just curious in terms of weight in that if there's a way to get the same (or close to it) qualities/attributes in materials that weighed less?
my thinking is in a sporty oriented build, that initial nearly 20 lbs way up high on either door (x4) (nearly 100 lbs😮)could possibly effect the balance and handling of the car by way of moving the center of gravity around?🤔🤷♂️
I'm probably overthinking...😁👍
Love the damming for the foam pour. How did you choose the 16#? is there benefit in a less dense material to kill sound. Mass vs. Density? I.e. The batting you stuff in the cavities works due to low density. Is there a sweet spot for density in sound transmission or will mass overcome the effect of air spaces?
I chose the 16lb foam because I wanted to add mass to the door card as a whole and around that midbass location. With the 24 you want to take all of the lightweight plastics and add mass to them so they're not buzzing/moving/annoying at volume. Especially true with the front door cards.
Amazing video. Great info.
Do you have any ideas on an expanding foam i can use in the cavities of my truck's cab? (The roof, a-pillars, etc).
Years back, I filled half of my roof with Great Stuff expanding foam, and over the years it has contributed to rusting out the roof everywhere that it lived. Obviously water leaked in through some areas/holes i had overlooked, and the foam must have retained the water, rusting out the metal very bad over time.
I'm going to replace the cab eventually, and i would like to attempt sound proofing the roof again with something proper. I didnt do my research back then, i was an impatient 20 year old.
I don't recommend expanding foam against exterior body panels for this exact reason.
Take a look at part 1 and part 2 of the sound treatment series and look at the mineral wool I used.
@HAMMER
I wouldn't use 2-part expanding foam on the roof except maybe in very small amounts to isolate/damp the roof cross beams from the sheet metal. Just make sure the foam is not captive and make sure it has somewhere to freely expand because it can bend and deform sheet metal and body panels if it is trapped with nowhere to escape.
Small bits of butyl rope or thick chunks or strips of CCF can be used for this.
For the roof (ceiling) in general, use a high-quality BUTYL-based CLD and multi-layer Dyna-Liner MLV/CCF foam sheeting or 3M Thinsulate type blanketing.
Companies such as 3M, Lord Fusor, and SEM make auto-mixing 2-part urethane foams, both flexible and rigid, for use in A-pillars/columns/cavities.
As mentioned, you don't want to use it where moisture will collect and/or be trapped by the foam, and the cavity/area must be completely dry and rust-free before application.
The companies mentioned above have specific application videos on their respective websites and on TH-cam.
Some applications suggest lining the cavity with a tough polymer bag by inserting it and then expanding it with air pressure like filling up a tire innertube (check out turkey oven baking bags) so that the foam does not permanently stick to the sheet metal and can be removed if necessary.
A good supplier for these 2-part expanding foams is *AutoBodyToolMart* and you can search there for one such product called *3M Automix Rigid Pillar Foam - 08458*
These foams are expensive and require a specialized proprietary "caulking gun" for proper application.
Most of these also come with 4"-8" long replaceable mixing tube tips that perfectly pre-mix the 2-part urethane foams before they exit the applicator tip. You can buy extra tips as well.
Like the 2-part foam he used to fill around the 6.5" speaker opening/grill area in the door card, there are different weights & densities and rigid & flexible sponge rubber types.
I would only use these as per the respective company's application guides. You also want to make sure not to encapsulate any wiring or harnesses in pillars or cavities with the foam!
DO NOT use 1-part aerosol "rattle can" expanding foams such as "Great-Stuff Expanding Foam" that is meant for household or building applications!
These require Exposure To Air in order to cure, and if the foam is encapsulated in a cavity without exposure to air all around the liquid foam, it will remain a gooey mess just under the surface and it will never cure.
Except for areas that will stay 100% dry, I would stick to using traditional Automotive Sound Deadening products.from high-quality manufacturers like those from *Dynamat* or *Reso-Nix* etc.
From personal experience and from other tests I've seen, the Spectrum Sludge is not very effective, especially for the price. Others may have a different experience with it.
Did you ever use the Spectrum? If so, how did you like it?
I did. Used in in the rear of the Audi as a protective layer for all the the metal work. Have an upcoming build where it will be used on the floor pan.
Because the door panel access holes have been plugged by the lead panels, does this mean a vapor barrier is no longer necessary?
Correct. No vapor barrier.