FYI, any owners looking to DIY this service can purchase a click-type torque wrench from Harbor Freight for roughly $20. They are accurate and consistent enough to be great for installing the transmission filter and fluid pan bolts. I would never build an engine with one of them, because they are not accurate and consistent enough to be trusted to install con rod or main caps or torque a cylinder head down, but the torque of a filter or fluid pan is not nearly that critical. The pattern and relative closeness to spec is what matters most with the filter and pan bolts, and the HF torque wrench is more than adequate to keep someone from over or under tightening the bolts and to keep them at the factory spec torque to prevent crushing or warping the pan and gasket. 👍 Well worth it. Keep in mind that you want to use a torque wrench that has your required torque spec in the middle of its usable range. If the model you are looking at has a range of 10-80 lb-ft and you need a wrench to tighten something to 12 lb-ft, you should look at a wrench with a smaller range which is possibly a lb-in wrench. You can convert lb-ft to lb-in and back to use wrenches labeled for those different units. 👍
I have one of those and I have to agree, it's probably fine for light maintenance like this. I've watched a lot of these Toyota Maintenance videos though, and I have to say, I'm extremely envious of the nice digital torque wrenches that he uses, and even the snap-on click type wrench :D
That's good Info to share. Thanks👍 I like to torque my head bolts on my old Dodge truck with the arrow-rod type wrench, to get that classic torqueing 🤣🤣🤣
Most car and truck owners will change their AT fluid every 30,000 miles or what is directed from the owner's manual. However, I have known a few people who drain and fill their AT after every other motor oil and filter change. Then they replace the filter every 30,000 miles. This ensures the driver is always running on completely fresh fluid.
Hey Peter. I just did a trans drain and fill on my 2006 Matrix AWD (197,000 miles). I do it every 30k miles. Also, I always use a new crush washer so you do not wind up over-torquing the drain plug.
Great video. I recently bought a 2018 Lexus ES350 and I currently have 24k miles. This just confirms that I will plan on doing a drain and fill very soon. I’m planning on 3500-4K mile oil change intervals and really keeping up on the maintenance.
I do 2 drain and refills first and drive the car 10 miles in between them, then change the filter last. Little extra money but you remove most all the fluid
Petr, once again another very thoughtful and meticulous service. It's obvious you're a very knowledgeable and caring Master Toyota Technician. Good work!
Your opinion please. On another channel, the mechanic cautions about changing fluid and filter on high mileage cars because the old fluid has accumulated debris from the clutches. That makes the fluid heavier and helps to add 'grabbing' power when the transmission shifts, he claims. My opinion>>> The dirty filter may starve the transmission from fluid.
Yeah, I think after 2014 toyota switched from regular automatic transmission to CVT. Basically a glorified scooter transmission with a steel belt. You definitely want to change out the CVT fluid out every 60k miles to if you plan on keeping it for a while.
Thank you, sir for the detailed instruction. Could I kindly know the transmission torque specs for a 2010 Toyota Matrix XR 2.4? ( drain plug, pan, and filter) Much appreciated and thanks again.
Rebuilt my calipers on my 07 Tundra. 4 out of the 8 pistons were stuck. Hydraulic pressure and air pressure didn't work. I used a hammer air tool to remove them. The pistons cost $7 each. So, for 35 dollars each caliper to fix. A new caliper cost $115.
i have toyota rav 4 2018 le, and noticed that i have to turn the lights to the "brights" mode manually, there's no sensor on the winshield, but i believe the "brights" mode turns off when the ignition key is removed, just a comment.
My daughter has a 2010 Matrix, that has over 180,000 miles. The local quick lube type place said that the ATF is dirty enough that they were hesitant about changing it. It runs well, but would my chances be okay to change this at home? I also have a manual 2010 matrix that, she cold, grinds a little going into 3rd. I’ve heard this is kind of normal, but is it?
If the transmission functions as designed at the moment, there is no reason to think that new fluid will alter that reality. It is a myth that new fluid will suddenly destroy an old transmission that still works just fine. What is true is that a transmission will suffer increased wear when fluid changes are neglected over its lifetime. That means the trans will start developing problems sooner than later. If a person changes the fluid when the transmission is exhibiting signs of excessive wear or component failure, yes it will fail after that fluid change simply because it was failing ANYWAY regardless of what fluid is in it. In many cases, old fluid that's in a middle aged transmission sometimes leads to unappreciated behavior like firm shifts, torque converter shudder, shift flares, etc. Replacing the fluid by doing a complete cooler line fluid exchange puts fluid into the unit which is back to spec and the trans can then operate as designed now that it has brand new proper fluid inside of it. The unwanted symptoms go away because the fluid is correct again. What it comes down to is, the fluid is how the unit operates and it protects the components from wear. A fluid change won't cure a 260k unit of incorrect operation. It also won't destroy a unit that works just fine with no issues. New fluid won't suddenly undo years of deferred maintenance and neglect, nor will it suddenly destroy components which are still within factory tolerances and still serviceable or usable as they are currently. New fluid = leas wear going into the future.
@@mannys9130 Not a myth Mr. CLUELESS=😳😳 THE OLD FLUID WORKS AS A BINDER' AND OFFERS AN OLDER WORN TRANS' GRIP, AND STABILITY! AND IT ALSO LOCKS INTO WIDER CREVICES, TOLERERENCES, ACTING AS A SEAL. WHEN IT'S REMOVED, THE NEWER FLUID IS SUPER SLIPPERY AS ITS "FRESH" AND CAN'T OFFER AN OLDER WORN TRANS' ANY GRIP AND BITE! THEY OFTEN START SLIPPING!! WE'VE SEEN THIS MANY TIMES! AT OUR GRAMPS REPAIR' SHOPS MANY TIMES. GRAMPS WAS THE PIONEER IN MANY (OUR GREAT GRAMPS) HOW TO"" 👓👓👓👓👓👓👓🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓💼💼🎒🎒🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬📗📗📘📘📙📚📚📚📚📖📖📖📖📑📑📑AUTO REPAIRS BOOKS!! MANUALS! COURSES TOO! HE WAS ALSO PROFESSOR AND SCHOLAR!🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓👓👓👓👓💼💼🎒🎒🎩🎩🎩🎩🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬📗📘📚📚📚📖📖📑📑📑
@@mannys9130 Thank you so much for the explanation! I have black fluid but no smell, it smells the same as new transmission fluid, no material in the fluid but once every so often I feel the transmission bump forward when changing gears like once every 20 minutes of driving usually when the transmission is cold. The transmission was serviced at 50k miles but I just got the 4runner now at 150k miles and the fluid is black. I plan to drop the pan and see the condition, I think clutch wear would mean pieces of clutch in the pan but I guess its hard to tell, anyway, if I don't see too much junk in the pan I will do the full cooler line fluid swap. If there is damage it was already done I guess. I did read online people saying that the new fluid could make the clutches slip so I am concerned about that but I guess that keeping the old fluid in will just keep on wearing down the transmission with dirty black fluid that is 100k miles old.
Peter thankyou for the content I love your videos. Question I have is isn't there still a few quarts in the torque converter? and if there is should you do another drain and fill much sooner than 30K miles I'm asking because I did drain and fill on my 05 highlander and the fluid was still quite dark so I did it a second time and the fluid is still nasty looking. is that normal and expected? thanks
Yes, there will still be old fluid inside of the torque converter, oil cooler circuit, clutch apply pistons, valve body piston bores and accumulators, as well as all of the hydraulic circuit passages inside the valve body which direct fluid to and from servos and actuators and bearings etc. For this reason, I don't EVER do a simple pan drop, filter swap and magnet cleaning, service by itself. I do that stuff first, refill the pan with the capacity that it holds, and then I move on to the second half of the trans fluid change. I remove the oil cooler return line that goes back to the transmission from the cooler's fitting nipple. To determine which hose the cooler output line is, follow both hoses to the trans and look at which one goes into the trans case near the top of the pan, or possibly which one goes into the case near the bell housing. A hose going into the pan is usually the return line, and one going into the bell housing area is probably the cooler's input going directly to it from the trans pump. The return line nipple you want to be removing the hose from can be at the radiator itself, at the oil-to-air cooler if the vehicle has an auxiliary ATF cooler like a truck or SUV, or possibly even the heat exchanger device somewhere on the trans case or engine block if the vehicle has an oil-to-water heat exchanger block rather than a traditional loop of tubing inside the cold side radiator tank. I put a section of clear hose onto the nipple of the oil cooler's output port, and I direct it down into a 5 gallon bucket. I put a funnel into the dipstick tube for adding new fluid quickly. I put a bright flashlight shining into the clear tube and at the stream of fluid that is leaving the end of the tube. Then I start the engine and watch the old fluid being pushed out of the trans by the pump and I pour new fluid into the pan at roughly the same rate that it comes out at. I watch the fluid coming out of the tube and eventually after several quarts it will start to change color and opacity and it'll look like the new fluid that you're pouring in. I continue replacing the fluid a bit longer after that point is reached. I usually use 1.5 times the transmission's total fluid capacity when doing a complete cooler line fluid exchange. Just before you reach the point where you wish to stop the exchange, stop pouring in fluid and allow the pump to expel a bit of fluid from the pan to reduce the oil level below the fill line which will allow you to top off the pan rather than leave you needing to take more fluid out. It's easier that way. Reconnect the return line, start it back up, shift through each gear, top off the pan near the cold mark, and then take the car for a drive to get the trans fluid fully up to temp and check the level once more at the hot mark. Done. 99% of the old fluid has been replaced with brand new fluid. Almost all of it is brand new and you are totally confident that it's back to being proper viscosity and has no debris in it and has the correct additives and friction modifiers needed to protect the transmission. Dropping the pan one time gives you a mixture of good and ruined fluid which is not good. Even dropping the pan 3-4 times still ends up with mixed fluid. A cooler line exchange is not a powered flush, it does not harm the transmission at all since it's the pump doing its normal thing at normal pressure, and it gets everything changed out in one fell swoop within 2-3 minutes. It's not hard to do at all. The pan removal is way harder and messier. I choose to flush the fluid through the oil cooler so that all of the old oil hiding inside of it is removed as well. If you remove the cooler's input line and then flush the fluid without the cooler in the equation, you will pump a good bit of old fluid right into the trans full of nice, clean, brand new fluid and contaminate it right away. Not good in my OCD mind. 😸 To be quite honest, it's my opinion that a person could drop the pan to clean the magnets and replace the filter at the first ATF service because the trans break-in period when the car was new will have made a bunch of shavings and dust and then wear particulate will drastically decrease in production volume after that. The majority of the shavings and clutch dust inside of a trans with less than 60k miles that has never been serviced consists almost entirely of that break-in particulate. A person could do the first service at 30k for conventual ATF or 50k for full synthetic ATF. They could replace the filter and clean the magnets, and do a complete fluid exchange as described. After that, the filter will be good to go for quite a while. The next change can easily be around 150k miles as long as fluid changes are done on schedule. The person can simply do cooler line fluid exchanges every 30-50k and not even need to touch the pan. Clean fluid that is serviceable will stop excessive wear which is what plugs up the filter and coats the magnet in ferrous particulate. My 2012 Corolla is filled with MaxLife which was installed at 58k miles when I got the car. I also installed an auxiliary oil-to-air ATF cooler after the stock radiator cooler because I live in Arizona and it is exceptionally hot here. This extra cooler keeps the ATF at operating temp even during city driving in 115°F heat with the AC on full blast. 😎 I do ATF cooler line exchanges every 30k miles. Can't get any better than that! :)
@@mannys9130 Way too much work and OVERKILL. WE KNOW PEOPLE WITH OVER 8OO.000 EVEN ONE WITH OVER 1 MILLION MILES ON A TOYO" SIENNA MINI VAN, AND TOYO SEQUOIA. AND THEY NEVER DID WHAT YOU DID. AND JUST REFRESHES.AND AT GREAT INTERVALS. LIKE 250.OOO. MILES! THEY DID USE A FULL STHN. THOUGH.
@@mannys9130 Thank you for the great breakdown of the process. I checked my car and you are right that is a very doable job. I'm going to do this over the weekend. Again I really appreciate it, thankyou!
Hi...this is off topic. I just checked the tire pressure, corrected it and would like to know how to get to the reset. I see how on my screen, just can't figure out where the heck to find it. Thanks to anyone who can help.
I just bought one 2012 with 187,000 miles and I will not do the transmission oil change because I don’t know the car history so I will pass and leave it the way it is.
Sorry peter but you should have left the filter in and ran it and drained it a couple of times I put 12 quarts through mine, y'all need to get the dirty oil out of the valve body and converter bud
I agree... I have an 05 Matrix total atf capacity is approximately 8 quarts - 3 quarts clean being mixed with 5 quarts of black fluid is a huge no bueno in my book. The cooler line disconnect and pumping new fluid through is super easy on these cars. Also have used Valvoline MaxLife atf - in 2004 Corolla and 04 RX330 & the Matrix with no issue all are spec'ed for T-IV fluid - the synthetic has worked great.
Be careful not to mix newton meters up with foot pounds, or inch pounds of torque, when setting your torque wrench adjustment. It has happened to some very smart people. Pull gradually on a torque wrench and quit pulling the instant it clicks, or beeps. Checking it twice will prevent you from missing one bolt during a cross hatch tightening. See those wires inside the transmission. It is better not to even touch them because they have been cooking inside that hot fluid for years, and the insulation might have become brittle. Unless you have a lift like Peter has, it might not be a good idea to even touch the transmission interior. They are super sensitive to contamination, and old wires and wiring connectors inside there are best left alone. You never know what might crack. Why take that chance. It it ain't broke, don't fix it.
U341E transmissions are great. Their only big issue is the torque converter lockup clutch apply piston in the valve body. There are PWM variants and there are binary on/off variants. The PWM variants wear out the application piston bore and seal more quickly because they vibrate in the bore as they are pulsed. The fix is to use a Sonnax repair kit or to swap the valve body and install one that is the on/off variant instead. The lockup clutch will be fine as long as the slippage issue is repaired asap. If the person drives the car with the TCC slipping for thousands of miles, the piston repair kit or valve body swap won't be enough to fix the issue and the TC will need replacing too. Otherwise, they are great transmissions and they will last as long as the fluid is kept cool and clean with frequent fluid changes on schedule. 30k miles for WS fluid, 50k for a full synthetic substitute.
@@mannys9130 I've got a 2011 Corolla with 105,000 miles. Trans fluid has never been changed and it's pretty dark but shifts fine with no apparent issues. I've had it for 8 years. Do you think it's too late for me to do a drain and fill with genuine WS fluid? I wouldn't drop the pan and change the filter, just a drain and fill.
@@jonathanratliff4780 How 'bout to "WHAT HE"S DOING , AND NOT JUST what he's SAYING" > that's why you people believe these LYING Politicians......Believe them, in what they're SAYING, not what they're DOING?
Just a question 🙋♂️ How do you activate the cluster needle sweep on a lexus 3rd Gen IS- mine have stopped the cluster needle sweep upon start up and not sure how to re-activate it- Just wanted to ask a question here- but if you don’t answer that ok too- thanks regardless 👍🏽
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
FYI, any owners looking to DIY this service can purchase a click-type torque wrench from Harbor Freight for roughly $20. They are accurate and consistent enough to be great for installing the transmission filter and fluid pan bolts. I would never build an engine with one of them, because they are not accurate and consistent enough to be trusted to install con rod or main caps or torque a cylinder head down, but the torque of a filter or fluid pan is not nearly that critical. The pattern and relative closeness to spec is what matters most with the filter and pan bolts, and the HF torque wrench is more than adequate to keep someone from over or under tightening the bolts and to keep them at the factory spec torque to prevent crushing or warping the pan and gasket. 👍 Well worth it. Keep in mind that you want to use a torque wrench that has your required torque spec in the middle of its usable range. If the model you are looking at has a range of 10-80 lb-ft and you need a wrench to tighten something to 12 lb-ft, you should look at a wrench with a smaller range which is possibly a lb-in wrench. You can convert lb-ft to lb-in and back to use wrenches labeled for those different units. 👍
I have one of those and I have to agree, it's probably fine for light maintenance like this. I've watched a lot of these Toyota Maintenance videos though, and I have to say, I'm extremely envious of the nice digital torque wrenches that he uses, and even the snap-on click type wrench :D
That's good Info to share. Thanks👍
I like to torque my head bolts on my old Dodge truck with the arrow-rod type wrench, to get that classic torqueing 🤣🤣🤣
Been a mechanic for 40 years... I enjoy your videos... Thank You!
That's why I like the older cars because they have the ATF dipstick! Much easier to service them.
Honda keep them longer then most
Toyotas still better tho😎
@@joshhemingway7294 If it says, “made in Japan”on the door jam!! Hands down I’ll give you that!
Most car and truck owners will change their AT fluid every 30,000 miles or what is directed from the owner's manual. However, I have known a few people who drain and fill their AT after every other motor oil and filter change. Then they replace the filter every 30,000 miles. This ensures the driver is always running on completely fresh fluid.
Very professional take on changing the transmission fluid in expressing honestly about what to do and what not to do.Thanks a lot.
Hey Peter. I just did a trans drain and fill on my 2006 Matrix AWD (197,000 miles). I do it every 30k miles. Also, I always use a new crush washer so you do not wind up over-torquing the drain plug.
Best in the business👌. Thank you sir, keep up the excellent and meticulous work. Respect 🙏
Great video. I recently bought a 2018 Lexus ES350 and I currently have 24k miles. This just confirms that I will plan on doing a drain and fill very soon. I’m planning on 3500-4K mile oil change intervals and really keeping up on the maintenance.
Great work, Peter. Thank you, sir.🇨🇦🇺🇸
Thanks for the great video! Wish I knew someone in my area like you. You'd get all my business as well as my family and friends.
I do 2 drain and refills first and drive the car 10 miles in between them, then change the filter last. Little extra money but you remove most all the fluid
Petr, once again another very thoughtful and meticulous service. It's obvious you're a very knowledgeable and caring Master Toyota Technician. Good work!
NOT REALLY THAT GOOD. STOP KISSING A🐴🐴SS! 😣😣😣😥😥😥😥😥
@@captainamericaamerica8090 ....so how's troll life treating you??
@@frankponte4031 YOU CAN'T DEAL WITH THE FACT! YOU SHEEP🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑 SO YOU TURN INTO A KAREN😂😂😂 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Explained very well I also like the calmness speaking 😁
An absolute joy to watch sir. Subbed
Your opinion please. On another channel, the mechanic cautions about changing fluid and filter on high mileage cars because the old fluid has accumulated debris from the clutches.
That makes the fluid heavier and helps to add 'grabbing' power when the transmission shifts, he claims. My opinion>>> The dirty filter may starve the transmission from fluid.
Love watching your videos. Keep up the awesome work!!
Love your videos; you explain everything so completely; thank you !!!!
Super competent guy great to see well done sir
My research came up with T-IV ATF for 2007 Matrix
Castrol 03518 Transmax ATF Green High Mileage Transmission Fluid
Just got my 2016 corolla serviced . Found out Toyota mid year switched out the atf fluid from WS to another type on that year model
Yeah, I think after 2014 toyota switched from regular automatic transmission to CVT. Basically a glorified scooter transmission with a steel belt. You definitely want to change out the CVT fluid out every 60k miles to if you plan on keeping it for a while.
TOYOTA 2016 corolla is CVT transmission
Most informative
Thank you, sir for the detailed instruction. Could I kindly know the transmission torque specs for a 2010 Toyota Matrix XR 2.4? ( drain plug, pan, and filter) Much appreciated and thanks again.
Rebuilt my calipers on my 07 Tundra. 4 out of the 8 pistons were stuck. Hydraulic pressure and air pressure didn't work. I used a hammer air tool to remove them. The pistons cost $7 each. So, for 35 dollars each caliper to fix. A new caliper cost $115.
Great video Mr. Peter.
Great content, thanks for sharing!
Brake clean in the transmission!? Another reason I do the transmission service myself.
I agree. Brake cleaner melts a lot of plastic and gets in places it shouldn’t be.
Thanks 😊 Peter great video.
i have toyota rav 4 2018 le, and noticed that i have to turn the lights to the "brights" mode manually, there's no sensor on the winshield, but i believe the "brights" mode turns off when the ignition key is removed, just a comment.
Original gasket rubber or coak ?...for 2010 matrix base model
I have a 03 matrix xr it says on the dipstick not to change the transmission fluid (oil)...why
My daughter has a 2010 Matrix, that has over 180,000 miles. The local quick lube type place said that the ATF is dirty enough that they were hesitant about changing it. It runs well, but would my chances be okay to change this at home?
I also have a manual 2010 matrix that, she cold, grinds a little going into 3rd. I’ve heard this is kind of normal, but is it?
Peter, I do have 1998 Camry 260k mi fluid never been flushed. Would it do harm if I flush and change the filter this time?
If the transmission functions as designed at the moment, there is no reason to think that new fluid will alter that reality. It is a myth that new fluid will suddenly destroy an old transmission that still works just fine.
What is true is that a transmission will suffer increased wear when fluid changes are neglected over its lifetime. That means the trans will start developing problems sooner than later. If a person changes the fluid when the transmission is exhibiting signs of excessive wear or component failure, yes it will fail after that fluid change simply because it was failing ANYWAY regardless of what fluid is in it. In many cases, old fluid that's in a middle aged transmission sometimes leads to unappreciated behavior like firm shifts, torque converter shudder, shift flares, etc. Replacing the fluid by doing a complete cooler line fluid exchange puts fluid into the unit which is back to spec and the trans can then operate as designed now that it has brand new proper fluid inside of it. The unwanted symptoms go away because the fluid is correct again. What it comes down to is, the fluid is how the unit operates and it protects the components from wear. A fluid change won't cure a 260k unit of incorrect operation. It also won't destroy a unit that works just fine with no issues. New fluid won't suddenly undo years of deferred maintenance and neglect, nor will it suddenly destroy components which are still within factory tolerances and still serviceable or usable as they are currently. New fluid = leas wear going into the future.
@@mannys9130 Not a myth
Mr. CLUELESS=😳😳 THE OLD FLUID WORKS AS A BINDER' AND OFFERS AN OLDER WORN TRANS' GRIP, AND STABILITY! AND IT ALSO LOCKS INTO WIDER CREVICES, TOLERERENCES, ACTING AS A SEAL. WHEN IT'S REMOVED, THE NEWER FLUID IS SUPER SLIPPERY AS ITS "FRESH" AND CAN'T OFFER AN OLDER WORN TRANS' ANY GRIP AND BITE! THEY OFTEN START SLIPPING!! WE'VE SEEN THIS MANY TIMES! AT OUR GRAMPS REPAIR' SHOPS MANY TIMES. GRAMPS WAS THE PIONEER IN MANY (OUR GREAT GRAMPS) HOW TO"" 👓👓👓👓👓👓👓🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓💼💼🎒🎒🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬📗📗📘📘📙📚📚📚📚📖📖📖📖📑📑📑AUTO REPAIRS BOOKS!! MANUALS! COURSES TOO! HE WAS ALSO PROFESSOR AND SCHOLAR!🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓🎓👓👓👓👓💼💼🎒🎒🎩🎩🎩🎩🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬🔬📗📘📚📚📚📖📖📑📑📑
@@mannys9130 Thank you so much for the explanation! I have black fluid but no smell, it smells the same as new transmission fluid, no material in the fluid but once every so often I feel the transmission bump forward when changing gears like once every 20 minutes of driving usually when the transmission is cold. The transmission was serviced at 50k miles but I just got the 4runner now at 150k miles and the fluid is black. I plan to drop the pan and see the condition, I think clutch wear would mean pieces of clutch in the pan but I guess its hard to tell, anyway, if I don't see too much junk in the pan I will do the full cooler line fluid swap. If there is damage it was already done I guess. I did read online people saying that the new fluid could make the clutches slip so I am concerned about that but I guess that keeping the old fluid in will just keep on wearing down the transmission with dirty black fluid that is 100k miles old.
Love you videos... hello from Puerto Rico.
Peter thankyou for the content I love your videos. Question I have is isn't there still a few quarts in the torque converter? and if there is should you do another drain and fill much sooner than 30K miles I'm asking because I did drain and fill on my 05 highlander and the fluid was still quite dark so I did it a second time and the fluid is still nasty looking. is that normal and expected? thanks
It's normal , you will never get it all out .
Yes, there will still be old fluid inside of the torque converter, oil cooler circuit, clutch apply pistons, valve body piston bores and accumulators, as well as all of the hydraulic circuit passages inside the valve body which direct fluid to and from servos and actuators and bearings etc. For this reason, I don't EVER do a simple pan drop, filter swap and magnet cleaning, service by itself. I do that stuff first, refill the pan with the capacity that it holds, and then I move on to the second half of the trans fluid change. I remove the oil cooler return line that goes back to the transmission from the cooler's fitting nipple. To determine which hose the cooler output line is, follow both hoses to the trans and look at which one goes into the trans case near the top of the pan, or possibly which one goes into the case near the bell housing. A hose going into the pan is usually the return line, and one going into the bell housing area is probably the cooler's input going directly to it from the trans pump. The return line nipple you want to be removing the hose from can be at the radiator itself, at the oil-to-air cooler if the vehicle has an auxiliary ATF cooler like a truck or SUV, or possibly even the heat exchanger device somewhere on the trans case or engine block if the vehicle has an oil-to-water heat exchanger block rather than a traditional loop of tubing inside the cold side radiator tank. I put a section of clear hose onto the nipple of the oil cooler's output port, and I direct it down into a 5 gallon bucket. I put a funnel into the dipstick tube for adding new fluid quickly. I put a bright flashlight shining into the clear tube and at the stream of fluid that is leaving the end of the tube. Then I start the engine and watch the old fluid being pushed out of the trans by the pump and I pour new fluid into the pan at roughly the same rate that it comes out at. I watch the fluid coming out of the tube and eventually after several quarts it will start to change color and opacity and it'll look like the new fluid that you're pouring in. I continue replacing the fluid a bit longer after that point is reached. I usually use 1.5 times the transmission's total fluid capacity when doing a complete cooler line fluid exchange. Just before you reach the point where you wish to stop the exchange, stop pouring in fluid and allow the pump to expel a bit of fluid from the pan to reduce the oil level below the fill line which will allow you to top off the pan rather than leave you needing to take more fluid out. It's easier that way. Reconnect the return line, start it back up, shift through each gear, top off the pan near the cold mark, and then take the car for a drive to get the trans fluid fully up to temp and check the level once more at the hot mark. Done. 99% of the old fluid has been replaced with brand new fluid. Almost all of it is brand new and you are totally confident that it's back to being proper viscosity and has no debris in it and has the correct additives and friction modifiers needed to protect the transmission. Dropping the pan one time gives you a mixture of good and ruined fluid which is not good. Even dropping the pan 3-4 times still ends up with mixed fluid. A cooler line exchange is not a powered flush, it does not harm the transmission at all since it's the pump doing its normal thing at normal pressure, and it gets everything changed out in one fell swoop within 2-3 minutes. It's not hard to do at all. The pan removal is way harder and messier. I choose to flush the fluid through the oil cooler so that all of the old oil hiding inside of it is removed as well. If you remove the cooler's input line and then flush the fluid without the cooler in the equation, you will pump a good bit of old fluid right into the trans full of nice, clean, brand new fluid and contaminate it right away. Not good in my OCD mind. 😸
To be quite honest, it's my opinion that a person could drop the pan to clean the magnets and replace the filter at the first ATF service because the trans break-in period when the car was new will have made a bunch of shavings and dust and then wear particulate will drastically decrease in production volume after that. The majority of the shavings and clutch dust inside of a trans with less than 60k miles that has never been serviced consists almost entirely of that break-in particulate. A person could do the first service at 30k for conventual ATF or 50k for full synthetic ATF. They could replace the filter and clean the magnets, and do a complete fluid exchange as described. After that, the filter will be good to go for quite a while. The next change can easily be around 150k miles as long as fluid changes are done on schedule. The person can simply do cooler line fluid exchanges every 30-50k and not even need to touch the pan. Clean fluid that is serviceable will stop excessive wear which is what plugs up the filter and coats the magnet in ferrous particulate. My 2012 Corolla is filled with MaxLife which was installed at 58k miles when I got the car. I also installed an auxiliary oil-to-air ATF cooler after the stock radiator cooler because I live in Arizona and it is exceptionally hot here. This extra cooler keeps the ATF at operating temp even during city driving in 115°F heat with the AC on full blast. 😎 I do ATF cooler line exchanges every 30k miles. Can't get any better than that! :)
@@mannys9130 Way too much work and OVERKILL. WE KNOW PEOPLE WITH OVER 8OO.000 EVEN ONE WITH OVER 1 MILLION MILES ON A TOYO" SIENNA MINI VAN, AND TOYO SEQUOIA. AND THEY NEVER DID WHAT YOU DID. AND JUST REFRESHES.AND AT GREAT INTERVALS. LIKE 250.OOO. MILES! THEY DID USE A FULL STHN. THOUGH.
@@mannys9130 Thank you for the great breakdown of the process. I checked my car and you are right that is a very doable job. I'm going to do this over the weekend. Again I really appreciate it, thankyou!
Great Job! I have to figure out how to get under my car to change mine! 🤣
Very nice!! Thanks 🙏
Great job
Hi...this is off topic. I just checked the tire pressure, corrected it and would like to know how to get to the reset. I see how on my screen, just can't figure out where the heck to find it. Thanks to anyone who can help.
have you tried the Aisin brand WS fluid?
It’s the same thing or better the wa has an aluminum foil to protect the oil when you twist off the cap!
Terrific Video !
WOW very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
Where is your shop located? Does anybody know where this mechanic is located?
California
You mean kalifornia?
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talk to the camera Peter, don't mumble
HE'S A ALIEN ! I THINK THEY SAYS FROM ISTANBUL! SO THE BAD ENGLISH AND HEAVY ACCENT😐😐😐
I just bought one 2012 with 187,000 miles and I will not do the transmission oil change because I don’t know the car history so I will pass and leave it the way it is.
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Yummy transmission fluid😂😂😂 it’s what’s for dinner
Sorry peter but you should have left the filter in and ran it and drained it a couple of times I put 12 quarts through mine, y'all need to get the dirty oil out of the valve body and converter bud
I agree... I have an 05 Matrix total atf capacity is approximately 8 quarts - 3 quarts clean being mixed with 5 quarts of black fluid is a huge no bueno in my book. The cooler line disconnect and pumping new fluid through is super easy on these cars. Also have used Valvoline MaxLife atf - in 2004 Corolla and 04 RX330 & the Matrix with no issue all are spec'ed for T-IV fluid - the synthetic has worked great.
Be careful not to mix newton meters up with foot pounds, or inch pounds of torque, when setting your torque wrench adjustment. It has happened to some very smart people. Pull gradually on a torque wrench and quit pulling the instant it clicks, or beeps. Checking it twice will prevent you from missing one bolt during a cross hatch tightening.
See those wires inside the transmission. It is better not to even touch them because they have been cooking inside that hot fluid for years, and the insulation might have become brittle.
Unless you have a lift like Peter has, it might not be a good idea to even touch the transmission interior. They are super sensitive to contamination, and old wires and wiring connectors inside there are best left alone. You never know what might crack. Why take that chance. It it ain't broke, don't fix it.
That fluid is so nasty, it should be pixelated.
U341 isn't good i,m use170000 Mi
U341E transmissions are great. Their only big issue is the torque converter lockup clutch apply piston in the valve body. There are PWM variants and there are binary on/off variants. The PWM variants wear out the application piston bore and seal more quickly because they vibrate in the bore as they are pulsed. The fix is to use a Sonnax repair kit or to swap the valve body and install one that is the on/off variant instead. The lockup clutch will be fine as long as the slippage issue is repaired asap. If the person drives the car with the TCC slipping for thousands of miles, the piston repair kit or valve body swap won't be enough to fix the issue and the TC will need replacing too. Otherwise, they are great transmissions and they will last as long as the fluid is kept cool and clean with frequent fluid changes on schedule. 30k miles for WS fluid, 50k for a full synthetic substitute.
@@mannys9130 I've got a 2011 Corolla with 105,000 miles. Trans fluid has never been changed and it's pretty dark but shifts fine with no apparent issues. I've had it for 8 years. Do you think it's too late for me to do a drain and fill with genuine WS fluid? I wouldn't drop the pan and change the filter, just a drain and fill.
Hey Peter, I know you should be doing that from side, to side, not : right down the line....... come on man?
He stated he was just rechecking with the torque wrench after doing the criss cross pattern.
Hey madman pay attention to what he’s saying before you start some diatribe that’s embarrassing you should apologize to Peter
@@jonathanratliff4780 How 'bout to "WHAT HE"S DOING , AND NOT JUST what he's SAYING" > that's why you people believe these LYING Politicians......Believe them, in what they're SAYING, not what they're DOING?
Just a question 🙋♂️
How do you activate the cluster needle sweep on a lexus 3rd Gen IS- mine have stopped the cluster needle sweep upon start up and not sure how to re-activate it-
Just wanted to ask a question here- but if you don’t answer that ok too- thanks regardless 👍🏽
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