Logitech Saitek Yoke Modification: Springs and Zip Ties
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Logitech Saitek Yoke Modification: Springs and Zip Ties
The Logitech Saitek Pro Flight Yoke is a quality product however, it includes a detent (mechanical resistance to movement) in its pitch axis of movement. This video shows one method to eliminate this detent.
Find detailed instructions and pictures at the Roger Dodger Blogger:
www.rogerdodge...
Also appearing in this video: the DIY Flight Sim Pod. Check out this DIY project here: www.rogerdodger...
Works! Except to fix the spring noises I used 5 minute epoxy and glued the base of the springs into thier notches. This prevents them from moving around under tension.
Also, I applied a rediculous amount of heavy axle grease to the entire length of the springs. You could probably apply dry silicone lube as an alternative. I used grease.
RESULT = No more spring noises!
This is awesome. I just bought the Cessna-branded Saitek yoke and throttle quadrant on ShopGoodwill for $36 and am so glad to find this mod! I'll be doing this as soon as it arrives in the mail.
There's something fundamentally wrong with having to rip apart over $300 worth of gear and void one's warranty to get a product that actually serves as an accurate training tool.
But, Se li vie, that's life in a Chinese manufactured world.
I'm climbing back into a cockpit after a 30+ year break and the costs are breathtaking. So I bought a Saitek yoke & pedals and thought I'd really lost it.
As in boy do I suck!
I was thrilled to find your spring mod video and you're giving credit where credit is due gave me the confidence.
Homer's even had the part! You've gotta love it!
The rebuild went according to plan. My file was dull as my jokes so I heated the springs a bit (10 sec with a lighter) and that gave them the bite they needed.
There's some spring noise at the ends of the control box, but what a difference in how it "flies"!
I ripped the tension spring out of the rudder pedals too as having it there makes for bad habits with one's rudder control. In real life one must step on the ball, not wait for the spring tension to make a correction. The ball catch/detent still serves to center the software and it's minimally annoying.
alfa-psi
Such is life. SMH.
"c'est la vie"
@@Gorilla_Jones It woulda helped if he spelled it right. SMH
there's 3.5" between screw posts. The "horns" for pitch are NOT centered between the screw posts. 1.5" from the front, 2" from the back. This Mod will still work, just DON'T hook the middle of the springs to the horn. This will cause your yoke to constantly be pulled in .5" further than it should.
Just did this last night. I got a little bit stiffer springs but added for a much more realistic feel when pulling pitch. You actually need to fight when pulling up. Still having a dead zone issue on left aileron, but that will get fixed next week with a new controller board. Great mod and great walkthrough - left no questions and everything went smooth!
Thanks for your comment. Glad to hear your project went well.
5 years later and Logitech are still producing the same substandard yoke with multiple flaws. Thousands are opening up the case and doing NECESSARY mods to make this yoke worthy of the name. Logitech has utterly ignored customer complaints and just keeps churning out the same flawed product, blissfully contemptuous of their customers.
I don't know how it was 2 years ago when you posted this or 7 years ago when they uploaded this video but today in 2022 they still selling same crap , I would never buy this garbage.
You guys make great videos. Very easy to follow. I will say though, that I don't like the spring set up. It sounds like I'm flying a swing-set. Now that I've got the holes drilled in the horns, I'll do the rubber band and zip tie method. I think that will be the winner. Thanks for the knowledge!
Did the mod - easy to do. Found the exact springs at Home Depot - Model# 16086. Also, the springs only have to stay in the groove long enough to close the unit up - since they're attaching around screw points, as soon as you close it up there's no way they can come off. Only detached the top point on the roll spring - don't think it hurts anything to leave it flopping around and the bottom screw was too hard to get at. Might reconnect it if I don't like the very weak roll centering. Next planning to do the circuit board mod to get rid of the roll and pitch dead zones. Then maybe I'll be able to land in a cross wind!
Hi Charles, do you have plans to release some guide/instruction about the circuit board mod when it's done?
When using rubber bands for the mods its a good idea to use SILICONE Grease on them to keep them supple and protected. You can get that silicone grease at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, or Lowes in 0.5oz tubes for $4
Thanks for the tip. I knew that petroleum based grease would perish the rubber. Didn't know about silicon grease.
great and easy to follow .... I'll try it on my Yoke
tnx for posting
BTW
I think my pot-meter went south, any idea if it can be replaced ??
That's a good question. Saitek probably buys the potentiometers from a different manufacturer. All we need to do is find out who that is.
6:58 you can grease the springs along their entire length to mostly eliminate that noise
Unfortunately this mod may not work with the latest version of the Saitek Pro Flight CESSNA yoke. This is because the horns are missing on the pitch axis plastic connection that drives the potentiometer. The aileron spring assembly is also completely different and would require complete disassembly of the device. I know because I've just got one :\
I agree. I don't personally own a Saitek Cessna yoke, but I heard from another viewer that opened one up and told me it has a different design.
Great, but which of this mods is better, I mean there are already many versions. Great info.
Ricardo Abelleyra Personally, I like the one with just the rubber bands and keeping the roll return spring in place.
Roger Dodger Aviation - Rubber bands dry out within a year, not a good choice.
@@Gorilla_Jones just change the rubber
Is it possible to just use the stock pitch springs for this?
I have problem with horrible squeaking on my roll axis. Any tips on how to get rid of it? I already opened the yoke and tried to identify what the hell is wrong, i swear it's like i just dipped it in lube and still it doesn't want to go away. Extremely frustrating and annoying sound.
Nope not gonna do this Never
Because when i Fix things i Destroy them Instead
Same
Does this also fix the issue of the "dead zones" when applying the ailerons and rudders?
The Dead zone is a firmware issue.
There is another fix for that issue here:
th-cam.com/video/YEqkz2JxoFo/w-d-xo.html
Could you give us the size of the springs you used?
Will this fix the grainy feeling and sticking when using this
+Colby Bryan I think it helps, but it's not going to make it perfect. It's still just a plastic yoke.
Ok 😀. A lot of people reccomend ch yokes and say how bad these suck sooo, what do I do?!?!
@@colbybryan7761 Buy a Honeycomb yoke, which didn't exist 4 years ago when you asked this question. :)
Would you recommend to buy the Saitek with this Mods or the CH Yoke with your Rubber Mod?
What Yoke is worth the money with your mods?
I like the Saitek yoke because of the separate throttle quadrant. The separate throttle quadrant allows me to attach the Saitek trim wheel with this handy adapter... www.rogerdodger.net/hacks-and-mods/build-saitek-trim-wheel-adapter/
I did this with exactly the same springs. I've got 2 issues with it:
- the yoke doesn't return to the exact same spot when released and it actually moves freely in the middle (0-300 in FSUIPC)
- when I press full back on elevator, there is this edge spot when I hear the springs and moving it further becomes hard (approximately 12000-16000 in FSUIPC)
Is this normal? What could have I done wrong?
Thanks,
Tomas
its normal no problem
Hi, what's the diameter, inner diameter & length of the spring?
Found the answer in the video.. :) sorry for that..
Send this video to the ones who makes the yoke... i dont understand why they just dont fix it where its made sens its an easy fix really. I was gonna buy this yoke but when i did see the dead zone im just aint gonna do it. Wont buy something that is already broke
Is this effective with the Saitek cessna yoke?
+PurpleAlleyCat No, I don't think so. One of the viewers opened up the Saitek cessna yoke and it is designed differently.
I read that it is not.
Hello ! Great video !! I have a problem with the roll axis, I don’t know how to explain it but if anyone can help me, I send a picture to him
Is the problem a dead zone (no response) until after turning the yoke about 5% in either direction! If so, Miturerich has a solution at th-cam.com/video/YEqkz2JxoFo/w-d-xo.html .
@@JamesHawkins54 Yep it’s this, but I will buy a new ^^, thanks for your response 🙏
Not for me. Open to modding the unit. Less open to the destructive approach. Drilled holes and notched screwposts you can't roll back from and could be introducing a new set of problems.
It is sad that the manufacturer saitek does not build the yoke better. So more could be sold and no one would have to make changes to the yoke and manipulate it. Saitek knows the problems with the yoke, also with the dead zone, from many reviews. Too bad.
Saitek doesn't exist for several years already. Logitech bought and unfortunately the only change they have made is changing a logo on the products and packages.
Logitech has them made in China based on the specs prescribed by Logitech. The parts used were cheap.
So this makes it feel more like a 172? 150? Which type aircraft?
Jim Beshears It helps alleviate the detent feeling in the middle of the pitch travel so you can make more subtle control inputs. I do not know of any modification that can make a Saitek Yoke feel like an actual general aviation airplane.
Roger Dodger Aviation Ok I get it now, thanks.
Anyone know if this will make it smooth
It removed the pitch detent and makes for smoother flares.
Using a high grade silicone grease between the metal shaft and plastic bearings makes the range of motion quite smooth.
i only play fsx on a xbox controller and a crappy pc (pentium e5200 and an amd hd4650 with 500gb hardrive)
Ohh man... imagine having a drill accident when yer drilling the holes in that plastic though. Nightmare!
Don't drill. Just use a small soldering iron. We did that back in the day to make HD disks from 720kb 3,5" disks.
@@michiel2722 I have Honeycomb, no drilling required. ;-)
@@mercster big woop nobodycares
which mod is best
+TwistedLemon I like the rubber bands and zip ties. Some people choose the springs and zip ties if they live in an area with high humidity that can degrade the rubber bands.
+Roger Dodger Aviation OK, is there any other yoke in the 150-250 USD range (other than CH)
+Roger Dodger Aviation Also thanks for replying :D