If you don't have any, or minimal aluminum components in your engine the 'old' silicate based green is perfectly fine. You could use HOAT but it's really not necessary. If you ever have a manifold leak in a car with a wet intake manifold and either OAT or HOAT antifreeze you'll find out real quick the benefits of a green 'old' type antifreeze when your bearings get wiped out from the acid. The only reason for HOAT and OAT antifreeze is since they started making all these modern engines out of throwaway metals like aluminum and recycled beer and soda pop cans. It allows longer service intervals without corroding the engines. Neglected silicate AF and aluminum cause high electrolysis. So will OAT, but to a lesser extent. HOAT and OAT are more susceptible to impurities (minerals) in the water, and you get the same thing. Take a voltage reading of your coolant. That will tell the tale.
If it very hard to achieve such clean flush, if you drain only at radiator cap. Again, if you drain only at radiator car, significant amount of water will be left in the system so you cannot use prediluted coolant. Great idea with that funnel. Lot faster to ventilate system. I did not have those, so I taped plastic bottle. Also, very often you don't need to raise car to open a vent - it can be accessed from above.
I'm going to try this stuff in my Chevy Colorado 2.8L I use Valvoline Maxlife in my Engine. And I use Maxlife Transmission Fluid in my Transmission. Iv used Valvoline in my Engine for years. I just started using Valvoline Maxlife in my Transmission and I like it so far but time will tell for sure. Or thats where my Rating will come from but so far so good with Valvoline and like I said its all I use and im using more of it and its impressed me so far.
A video series focused on transmission fluid testing is a great idea! Similar to our engine oils, Valvoline’s transmission fluids are put through a series of demanding bench and rig tests to ensure optimal performance in your vehicle. The critical transmission fluid tests evaluate clutch friction performance, gear wear, shudder resistance and aeration. In fact, we perform one of the critical rig tests, the SAE #2 Friction Test, at our Ashland laboratory. Transmission designs continue to change and Valvoline’s transmission fluids need to evolve to ensure optimal performance and durability.
Well others may have found more info in this video useful. There’s people who know very little about cars and some who just needed a refresher on how to do something.
That process with the water is not at all what Valvoline shop did when I took my car there for coolant flush! I'm confused now. All he did was force new fluid into the radiator with a rollcart pressure hose. The pressure was so high, it even splashed out all over the engine bay and the guy's shirt! He sprayed water to wash it off engine bay. (Just hope he didn't spray any electrical components.) He had me turn on the car heater briefly, then said "that'll be $129.99, ma'am." I have no idea what coolant he put in, didn't even know there were different types! Hope it was done right and that my car is okay. 2005 Honda CR-V made in Japan.
I bought my 2017 challenger brand new back in 2017....then I got my check engine light and checked the plastic thing where you pour water and it was kinda empty...so i put water and engine light went away...now it's brownish the liquid so I need a radiator flush right?...that's the reason I have check engine light.
@Jason-zw2dg I don't know...and my power cuts off ...like let's say I go in to like 65 or 70 or if I accelerate very fast to those speeds my car goes back to like 20 and the traction light comes on and I have to turn off the car so light can turn off
No one can help with my drain plug 😢 the plug sits behind and against the radiator frame. I really hate the idiot that designed my car. I have a 2008 Buick Lacrosse Super and it apparently has air in the system. The resevior bubbles like it's boiling and all the fluid comes out. Car only goes alittle past half temp, no engine light. Unfortunately I can't get to the plug, the v8 is too big for the car. They have the battery squeezed between the frame and the pulleys under the corner frame with a half inch gap making it a b**h to change and can't be any larger not a centimeter or won't go in.
Normally you can take off a heater hose or a hose at the highest point above the level of the engine and refill until it runs out of that hose. Typically the air will work out over time as it will want to go to the highest point which is usually the expansion tank on newer cars.
@@dragonext2001 You should look at aftermarket radiators they might have a drain plug in a better position. Other than that you have to do what the other person said and take off some radiator hoses to drain it. Refill drain again and do that a few more times to completely flush it with new coolant. Not an ideal way to do it but better than not doing it.
In addition to that you should install a new thermometer while you're doing the flush to make sure it's not bad and so that you don't have to drain it again in a few months or a year or two just to install a new thermometer.
Zerex has a product labeled as for Toyota Lexus... DO NOT USE! Personal experience. I topped off with Zerex and had a negative effect. I then, in turn, bought the Toyota super long life coolant (pink formula) and paid $18 a bottle AT A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP THROUGH THEIR OFFICIAL TOYOTA PARTS WEBSITE compared to $22 at O'Reilly. I had to flush the system because of that top off. Also, pressure flushing is never a good idea for an older car... Old seals being exposed to pressures higher than the cap is rated for is asking for trouble.
@@coreturkoane5570 I wouldn't use that new junk in an old car either. Don't need it with a cast iron engine. I had a car that I primarily kept in storage with a rebuilt engine and new pristine cooling system. I flushed and filled with the best Prestone green and distilled water and it still looked pristine and new 15 years later. Granted it wasn't driven much at all but it's the heat, usage and combustion gasses that break down the coolant. I checked the coolant 'voltage' and it was just about the same as when I filled it. The other thing is to make sure you don't have any ECR rubber hoses. That's electro-chemically-reactive which means the rubber causes a small charge or current to be induced in the coolant which will corrode the engine over time.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
If you don't have any, or minimal aluminum components in your engine the 'old' silicate based green is perfectly fine. You could use HOAT but it's really not necessary. If you ever have a manifold leak in a car with a wet intake manifold and either OAT or HOAT antifreeze you'll find out real quick the benefits of a green 'old' type antifreeze when your bearings get wiped out from the acid. The only reason for HOAT and OAT antifreeze is since they started making all these modern engines out of throwaway metals like aluminum and recycled beer and soda pop cans. It allows longer service intervals without corroding the engines. Neglected silicate AF and aluminum cause high electrolysis. So will OAT, but to a lesser extent. HOAT and OAT are more susceptible to impurities (minerals) in the water, and you get the same thing. Take a voltage reading of your coolant. That will tell the tale.
If it very hard to achieve such clean flush, if you drain only at radiator cap. Again, if you drain only at radiator car, significant amount of water will be left in the system so you cannot use prediluted coolant. Great idea with that funnel. Lot faster to ventilate system. I did not have those, so I taped plastic bottle. Also, very often you don't need to raise car to open a vent - it can be accessed from above.
I'm going to try this stuff in my Chevy Colorado 2.8L I use Valvoline Maxlife in my Engine. And I use Maxlife Transmission Fluid in my Transmission. Iv used Valvoline in my Engine for years. I just started using Valvoline Maxlife in my Transmission and I like it so far but time will tell for sure. Or thats where my Rating will come from but so far so good with Valvoline and like I said its all I use and im using more of it and its impressed me so far.
A video series focused on transmission fluid testing is a great idea! Similar to our engine oils, Valvoline’s transmission fluids are put through a series of demanding bench and rig tests to ensure optimal performance in your vehicle. The critical transmission fluid tests evaluate clutch friction performance, gear wear, shudder resistance and aeration. In fact, we perform one of the critical rig tests, the SAE #2 Friction Test, at our Ashland laboratory. Transmission designs continue to change and Valvoline’s transmission fluids need to evolve to ensure optimal performance and durability.
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PmP🎉 bennbb bcbb
Only legends remember this man’s car reviews
Great video! Thanks!
Excellent video thx
I found maybe a minute and a half of this video useful
Well others may have found more info in this video useful. There’s people who know very little about cars and some who just needed a refresher on how to do something.
@@Soggy_Potato21 the rest of video was common sense some people have but most don't like yourself...this poor world.....
@@bryanh209rt Seems you are too big of an air head to understand what I just said
Good luck to you lame
thanks very much. good vid
That process with the water is not at all what Valvoline shop did when I took my car there for coolant flush! I'm confused now. All he did was force new fluid into the radiator with a rollcart pressure hose. The pressure was so high, it even splashed out all over the engine bay and the guy's shirt! He sprayed water to wash it off engine bay. (Just hope he didn't spray any electrical components.) He had me turn on the car heater briefly, then said "that'll be $129.99, ma'am."
I have no idea what coolant he put in, didn't even know there were different types!
Hope it was done right and that my car is okay.
2005 Honda CR-V made in Japan.
Did you filter and reuse the distilled water for each additional flush or use fresh each time?
Definitely do not reuse, use fresh. There can be contaminants in the water that might not be able to been seen with the naked eye.
I bought my 2017 challenger brand new back in 2017....then I got my check engine light and checked the plastic thing where you pour water and it was kinda empty...so i put water and engine light went away...now it's brownish the liquid so I need a radiator flush right?...that's the reason I have check engine light.
So was it the head gasket?
@Jason-zw2dg I don't know...and my power cuts off ...like let's say I go in to like 65 or 70 or if I accelerate very fast to those speeds my car goes back to like 20 and the traction light comes on and I have to turn off the car so light can turn off
How to drain coolant from the engine block? More than half of the old coolant is still in the engine block with the water.
My truck has a drain plug on the moter
Where do you dump the water?
In the ocean
It's like buying Craftsman it's a lifetime guarantee only if you keep it I usually end up losing it or blowing a hose
No one can help with my drain plug 😢 the plug sits behind and against the radiator frame. I really hate the idiot that designed my car. I have a 2008 Buick Lacrosse Super and it apparently has air in the system. The resevior bubbles like it's boiling and all the fluid comes out. Car only goes alittle past half temp, no engine light. Unfortunately I can't get to the plug, the v8 is too big for the car. They have the battery squeezed between the frame and the pulleys under the corner frame with a half inch gap making it a b**h to change and can't be any larger not a centimeter or won't go in.
I can smell the coolant burning like the car is overheating when it's "boiling" out. 😭
Normally you can take off a heater hose or a hose at the highest point above the level of the engine and refill until it runs out of that hose. Typically the air will work out over time as it will want to go to the highest point which is usually the expansion tank on newer cars.
@@dragonext2001 You should look at aftermarket radiators they might have a drain plug in a better position. Other than that you have to do what the other person said and take off some radiator hoses to drain it. Refill drain again and do that a few more times to completely flush it with new coolant. Not an ideal way to do it but better than not doing it.
In addition to that you should install a new thermometer while you're doing the flush to make sure it's not bad and so that you don't have to drain it again in a few months or a year or two just to install a new thermometer.
Zerex has a product labeled as for Toyota Lexus... DO NOT USE! Personal experience. I topped off with Zerex and had a negative effect. I then, in turn, bought the Toyota super long life coolant (pink formula) and paid $18 a bottle AT A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP THROUGH THEIR OFFICIAL TOYOTA PARTS WEBSITE compared to $22 at O'Reilly. I had to flush the system because of that top off.
Also, pressure flushing is never a good idea for an older car... Old seals being exposed to pressures higher than the cap is rated for is asking for trouble.
very well spoken...also, I would rather use the green coolant that this vehicle was using back in the day!
Pressure flushing is fine… just keep it below 50psi
@@coreturkoane5570 I wouldn't use that new junk in an old car either. Don't need it with a cast iron engine. I had a car that I primarily kept in storage with a rebuilt engine and new pristine cooling system. I flushed and filled with the best Prestone green and distilled water and it still looked pristine and new 15 years later. Granted it wasn't driven much at all but it's the heat, usage and combustion gasses that break down the coolant. I checked the coolant 'voltage' and it was just about the same as when I filled it. The other thing is to make sure you don't have any ECR rubber hoses. That's electro-chemically-reactive which means the rubber causes a small charge or current to be induced in the coolant which will corrode the engine over time.