Arrma Outcast 8S First Time Driving an Arrma
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
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I'm sure someone has said by now, but the lights on the transmitter is showing how much life is left in the lipos. 👍
Funny listening to Talbert and then you. It's very different. Kevin points out all the stuff from a pure bashing/stuns point of view while you are very much racing. Glad I watch both of you. FYI in local hobby shop in Detroit area and bonding with a total stranger over what we have learn on Kevin and your videos. Thanks for helping us all out.
yeah... i am completely different... haha... I wish i could send cars with no fear like Kevin though.
Kevin Talbot seems to think it’s the radio that’s “laggy” The center diff oil is light. That’s another reason why it’s a little laggy. Gear noise is the spur and pinion. Not excessive lash but more so how aggressive the gear cut is. Also straight cut gears. Meant for strength not comfort. A truck that heavy needs some thick stuff for center diff. Put silicone earplugs in the center diff and it’ll be more than you can handle. Standing backflips, pulling wheelies every time you blip the trigger. Did it with my Kraton 6s and it’s a wild animal. Sweet truck.
I just enjoy the truck don’t really care about all these petty things 👍🏻
Thanks! It has to be more than the center diff because when i try to correct in mid air its delayed. Usually with Hobbywing escs (the one it has) they come out of the box with the "punch" turned down.
@@MarkSantaMaria yeah the radio you have is updated, so it's not the radio. Looks like in the beginning of the video you figured out the key to getting it to wheelie. Crank that b*tch to the moon! 🤣
The Outcast 8s already has 20 million center diff oil from factory.
Adjust the punch settings. They don't usually come at max punch out of the box.
Bout time you try a high end Arrma buddy,🙂
The gear noise you are hearing is the sound of the most heavy duty center diffs in the industry.... I kid you not, take it apart and you will see its an engineering marvel. Front and rear are amazing too.
Turn up the punch setting to 5 and put in the 23 tooth and she really wakes up and makes it more wild!
You will need both of those changes for better in air corrections because like you said.... She is not light! You will need the wheel speed and punch for better corrections.
If you want to check the mesh just take two screws off center cover, hold spur with one finger and rock the pinion back and forth.
She is an absolute beast. Check out my vids on this truck "Fully Beefcake."
I know your a traxxas guy, nothing wrong with that, props to you for trying somthing different out. Outcast 8s is a beast.... Just make those small tweeks and you will be happy you did. 👍
Appreciate ya buddy
Couldn’t agree you more the drive train is the best I’ve seen and I’ve owned traxxas before and the quality of these rigs is best out the box that’s for sure! Definitely best for your buck.
Isn’t the gauge on the remote for the battery in the car? (Telemetry) 🤦♂️ and then I watched more lol
Thanks for not making me send you a face palm. 🤦♂️oops. Sorry just kidding. 🍻
I felt "not so smart" when i realized that ... hahaha
Everyone out of the box puts the punch all the way up. That's like a must do before you drive 🙃
The Loudness of the 8s series is due to their no attachment for the spur gear. It just sits on a keyed shaft. So it has a little extra feedback noise.
Upping the punch setting might for the lag
The metal gears ⚙️ sound is unique so much raw power
I can see you with Arrma and Traxxas ! You gonna love the Arrma line
You can play around with the punch settings on the ESC
And timing
Straight away? No programming card needed?
Was gonna say... i always set the punch to almost full when I get an arrma... will fix it.
I'm a noob, how you change this settings?
@@joshuaburgess4730 read manual on how to change ESC settings... then go to increase punch... it used to be the 2nd setting on the BLX esc's... not sure which one it is on the new firma ones
It's loud due to the metal gears that are moving in the drive train
That loud noise in the drive train is due to the fact that they make the gears outta the same stuff they make bomb shelters out of.
The combination of metal gears, metal motor/diff mount and metal chassis is the recipe for a noisy vehicle. Just something to get use to.
They’re all fun to drive!!! I’ve got plenty of both brands. Cool to hear your perspective on driving a different high end brand
Mark picked one of the best trucks that Arrma makes. I put gorilla tape and foam where the body sits on the front shock towers because it's going to get damaged by that component on bad landings. Put gorilla tape all around too on the inside. 👍
Set the punch level to “5” in the esc. It will help
From a former biggest ARRMA Fanboy ever lived, its a good modell, sure needs some stuff to take serious bashing. 1. way to underpowered, need max gear to work descent ( read level in air ) 2. Works way better with a descent 5thscale system.3 M2C racing will be your friend, when you start to push it..besides that it looks good as few.. Its one big transmission, the noice is 100% normal, same where you calibrated it. Wait untill you do it on the real 5th scale stuff.
Good video, enjoyed it, newly found you chanel, and i enjoy it a lot.
That lag, is only cuz its not maxed..its a must to have it linear..you adjust that easy, or check for update on the firmware, and the punch at max, will wake it up ( its a must )
i have a senton and a granite and never replaced 1 part in 7 years of brushless bashing ..great stuff
Then you don’t drive your trucks. Sorry but if you ain’t breaking shit you ain’t doing nothing
Armaas all make that noise.. with metal gears its noisy but normal. And for the lagg its most likely because its geared lower for more speed
Gearing higher is for higher speed, for lower gearing it's more acceleration and less speed but easier on the electronics u had it backwards.
Loll ya i know i was talking lower ratio! And it Depends if your talking about the spur or pinion.. lower pinion is less top speed lower spur is more top speed..
And even the 6s hurts if slightly hit by it. Lol I finally broke down and got the Notorious 6s and Kraton 6s. Other than that it's the rustler 4x4 I upgraded, Hoss, 2 Slash one OBA, and after the 2 6s came the Xmaxx.
Traxxas cars lift the wheels up straight away because the chassis has such a high centre of gravity compared to Arrma's LCG chassis's.
Got the MAXX and the Typhon and love both 😄
I see you found out shortly after, but the battery indicator on the remote is for the lipo’s not the Transmitter and obviously I’m thinking your thinking it’s a pretty awesome feature now that you understand what it is !! And I’m also not a big fan of the battery straps and think they work on some Rc’s but definitely not good for all , but the one thing I do like about a open concept like that is that you can use pretty much all types and makes of batteries to where on most of the fixed battery holders your limited to what batteries you can use ! I also recommend you double check all your main screws and tire nuts as they usually can use some tightening. I do believe you have AVC on it also so in the dirt it’s way easier to handle. Keep up the Great Work, Stay and Play Safe !! 👍✌️
U got my mad respect for pickin’ up an Arrma. 👊🏽
change that center diff oil that will help with the diffing out and some of the input lag with the throttle
Also having come from Traxxas, I 1000 percent agree that arrma battery hold downs suck. Not only do they take more time, but my granite 3s and now Kraton EXB have both had problems with expensive batteries getting ruined because the straps came loose during a bash.
However, they are both so much more durable than the stampede 4x4 and e Revo I had before tho that I'm more than willing to forgive that shortcoming. I spend a lot more time driving than fixing with my Arrmas than I did with my old Traxxas cars, however I kept the xmaxx 8s because it continues to be the ultimate in durability.
I do appreciate the ease of putting batteries in.
Love the videos, keep em coming. Great to see you brought an Arrma. No going back now. Liked and subscribed. John
My outcast 8s with punch at 4 and earplugs has tons more fun power than my xmaxx. Both stock. No delays. Nice vid
Hi Mark! Love your channel. My wife and I just picked up a Rustler 4x4 VXL and a Hoss 4x4 VXL about a month ago and we are new to hobby and absolutely loving it. We also live in the Frisco/McKinney area and we would love to know where you filmed this video. Looks like a great place to practice jumps for us newbies. Thanks!
Have to turn the punch up to near max or at max on the esc. Punch is set in the middle out of the box. That is what most people do when they get these. From what I have seen.
That gauge is for your smart battery in the car itself....just plug the smart battery in and then turn it on...should light up shortly after
If u weren't already told those lights on tha controller are for tha life of ur lipo battery Salute peace and blessings I enjoy ur content
battery meter is for the batteries in the car not in the transmitter. The battery straps can easy just pull on one side. They are not good. The huge servo horn is also the servosaver..
Welcome to the army brother👍
Welcome to the world of armor that's a real car tracks ass
My dad hit me with an X Maxx and it broke my ankle and I now have 2 screws in it
🤣sorry!!!
F rip my dude
Traxxas breaks all the time and now ankles too 😉
Seriously!?!?! Yikes!
Come on man!!!!! stop the hate for traxxas mine still working until this day I like armma don't own one yet but traxxas is rolliing.
Yep! You figured it out! Awesome run mark!👍👍😎👽🤙
It will get quieter as it gets some wear on it my Kraton and my outcast are way quieter! I put the gel ear plugs in ceter dif and turn the punch up some and it is a totally different truck !!! Also put a dusty motors cover on it keeps the grass out the fans !!!!
The lack of punch isn’t from the esc. Arena RTRs come with really thin diff fluid. That’s why they diff out so easy too. Throw some E-Revo diff fluid in there and problems solved.
At 3:15 I was laughing on the inside. I see he did bother reading the manual. However, those lights that are not on are for you telemetry. It reads your lipo levels in the car when you have smart lipos connected ONLY! Also it beeps when your lipos are near done so you don't kill them.
Watch Kevin's videos on silicone ear plugs in center differential to lock it up and check the front and rear differential for gear oil
You need to put heavy center diff fluid. The factory fluid isn't very thick, I run silicone ear plugs in my center diff on the Kraton and it can almost do a standing flip! The gear noise is because the drive is completely exposed.
Ooooh get an Arrma Talion 6s V4 they are a beast and also remember that M2C Racing is a valuable ally
Stock the wax is set to punch 5 set it to punch 8 to have it drive like an Xmax . Then you could do standing back flips . Way more linier
You can program the esc with a program box.
Am I allowed to like all of them? Arrma, Traxxas, Losi, Team Associated, Tamiya, whoever. I wouldn't be upset to have them all!
He must of been like…why isn’t this thing breaking yet😂
Those lights on the radio are for the smart lippos I'm an arma basher, Infraction V2, Kraton 6s, Granite, Bigrock and a Redcat KAIJU, Traxxas bashers are overpriced and always break, I do like my TRX4'S and my M41 speedboat, thats tire noise you're hearing 😎👍
If it wasn’t for the aluminum chassis plus 30lbs of weight it would be great.
You should've adjusted the punch to level 5 to alleviate some of that "delay".
I have instantly throttle and open the vent on the motor side and put in the fast pinion. Dont know where you have the lag I have none. And the Xmaxx only have wheely power if you put up punch level. Stock it does not do it at all.
You can change diff oil to have a more AWD effect. It’s also super heavy and slow without changing pinions.
Already 20 mill in the center diff, it's more an issue of punch settings, but your 100% on the pinion! 23 tooth is necessary IMHO
I just sold my 6s one like that and you also need to turn it up by the remote and make another video cuz if you put it on the remote on 100 it'll do backflips and stuff
My 8S tp powered m2c beefcake Kraton 💪 is an ankle breaker for sure. I was in my local park, and the kids and I were walking over to the other side, me having to be 😎 was catching up my Kraton that was behind me with the no look pull up next to me, well I pulled right up into my Achilles heel😳🤣. I don't know how I didn't break it but it put me flat on my ass. And that's a 12lb truck, a 35lb Outcast will put you in the hospital! And that's the Arrma chug you're hearing👍👊💪
Good initial run of the outcast. How does it feel overall compared to the xmaxx? Balance, power and handling... Keep the great RC content coming Mark Thanks.
Definitely more power.... I will do an 5 min review ;)
Mark Santa Maria it only runs like 3 mph faster than an Xmaxx so not really more power at all
Hey Mark that was a pretty nice run brother....you broke the ice bro...👍👍👊👊💯💯
That normal nosie for arrma
Good review. I think if you would have started out on concrete area you could have stayed on power through that corner and ( powerdrift ) slid it all the way through
It will do standing backflips
Turn your punch level up. Lipos should be at least 6700mah r longer drive time, pinion/gears on larger rc's make more noise. If you really want to make it faster use a 25/27 tooth pinion, a lil more fun 😉
I prefer the velcro over the traxxas straps adjust it or get longer ones
I kind of like my e-revo2.0 doors. I just don't like how the pebbles get in there.
@@spike-- well the hoss ones keep opening same as my maxx ones
@@Banana_seals
I listen for a click when it locks. If that goes away i figure i will add velcro as a secondary latch. 🍻
@@Banana_seals
You like your hoss? I have two many cars/trucks now. It looks fun.
@@spike-- nope was a friends he sold it after 2 weeks not his style we bash hard I got a 6s outcast 6s Kraton maxx trx4 and that's it right now the maxx straps are a little better but after some hard jumps come off
Honestly I wish I was you your so lucky 😁
Get a dx5 rigged well worth it for the money its alot better also adjust the punch to 9
What setting is that under sir
@@MrScatliffe look in the manual or search it up by the esc you have how to change pinch setting its pretty easy
Yes battery level in the car
Hi bro, I have the same car. Just set the punch level to level 5, brakes at 100%. Also try to make a perfect landing to avoid breakage as it is a very heavy truck brother. Also set the timing lever higher in the esc by using the instruction manual. By the way they have avc in it. You can adjust the avc using the remote. Great video 👍🏽
Yup... it wasnt easy to control the car in the air out of the box
Try a set of 100c batteries awesome
Mark I would've cut the big brain fart you had with the lipo censor on the remote out the video thinking it was for the remotes AA come on bro your a professional 🤯
Im real though... it showed how knew i am with arrma stuff... hahaha
@@MarkSantaMaria Dont take this the wrong way, but it kinda shows you are a little lazy. lol And did zero research on this vehicle and its features. Constructive criticism, to make you better at being a you tube content creator.
We all with arrma hates those batteries straps.
Prefer that than restrictive plastic baterry holder that only fits one baterry lenght
Nice to put different size lipos in but they are annoying. You can cut them which is why they made it long.
What a bunch of whiny babies 😆
@@timvanasen6711 yeah lol baterry velcro strap or plastic holder we will always have people cry about them😆
Really? Cause I know a lot of people who swapped their short course trucks(slash) to arrma Velcro battery straps lol
It's kinda hard to beat up a arena they are pretty sturdy
Turn up the punch on the esc! On stock setting it will ack like that. Your feeling the punch kick in,at a higher punch setting will even that out! Enjoy 😂
I think you should take it to the cee-ment pond! hahaha
the car killer? too scary... hahaha
Even my Arrma,Granite 3sblx has loud spur gear noise ,hasn't striped yet plastic,metal one waiting on shelf
The lack of lights on the controller are because they are lights for the smart batteries in your Car. Once those are plugged in, then the lights will be reflective of the battery level of the spectrum batteries
Yup when I say I don’t have room to run a truck like the XMaxx etc it’s not that physically I don’t have room it’s I don’t have a space to goto big enough without people that possibly would interfere or get in the way and possibly hurt if I opened something that powerful up. I know I gather a crowd just with my SCTE on 3s and constantly have to watch for the little kids. I’ve seen first hand what happens person vs fast Rc car. I was pitting for my buddies 1/8 scale OnRoad Nitro car at the track I had just put him down for some warmup laps one of the turn marshals from the previous heat decided to cut across the track and got nailed in the leg by my buddies car 3/4 of the way down the back straightaway and a second car at a lesser speed as he was laying on the ground. It shattered his leg we estimated the car was going close to or over 60MPH it had shifted into second gear and was almost wound out to top end. Now that turn marshal has a permanent limp and has to walk with a cane even years later that was literally a life altering injury for him luckily our club had insurance to cover such things but Can you imagine the lawsuit if something like that happens to a individual just wanting have a little fun with their RC and they injured some random person not looking where they are going 🤦♂️
I have a new senton v3 and she's a lound little bug also lol I've opened the spur 3 times to check for damage and nothing just the way it is but my stampede is a winey one also
I really want an 8s 1/5 scale E Revo
Almost An Operator that’s not a thing
kraton 8s joins the chat
@@RacingMason-ik1pu I know thats why i said I want it
Think the noise may help bystanders know your there & to be vigilant.🤔
Turn up the punch on the esc
Can you review the Team associated MT10 and the MT8?
did you set the punch level? its got 5 levels thats why its not getting as much power from dead stop
Turn the traps around so you pull the other way. More room for fingers
Adjust punch setting
My hobby wing max6 is real punchy if u turn it up to 5. I run it on my stock xmaxx 8s motor. The stock esc wasn't nearly as punchy as the max6. I run mine on 2 most of the time tho so its easier on the diffs
U probably need thicker fluid in the center to bring the front up faster
Dude! I was told by hobby shop the controller battery lights was for the car? But I have the Dave problem? It has to be the level indicator is for the remote and mine does same thing with new batteries?
Hobbywing or spectrum esc?
They seem to be manufactured by the same people
20mil center DIff fluid, 23t pinion and punch set on 5. Leave timing on zero.
Looked fun!!! I like it
Add thicker diff oil in center diff
It didn't break because you didn't jump it off a ramp and at least 15ft into the air. I jump my Outcast 8s that high and you will need to change the 30wt shock oil before you get some big jumps in. If not, say goodbye to your shock shafts and shock rod ends. Trust me. Yeah you need at least a 21t pinion and punch 5 setting on the ESC. Yes the drive train is noisy. I don't use TSM or AVC on my basher vehicles to be honest. Honestly my xmaxx breaks less than the Outcast 8s when doing big jumps.
Woooooooooooo Woooooooooooo you are the best
The lights for car batteries
You made me do a homer Simpson impression and smack my forehead
Try turning the punch level to 5
Do I get the Kraton 8s, the Outcast 8s or the new Traxxas XMaxx?
6:45 maybe try putting the punch level at 5
My fully charged nimh batteries appear at half life on the traxxas app.
Anyone know??? If i swap the stock spektrum esc connector with xt90, do you still get battery level telemetry at the transmitter??
How do you test the fail safe on it I had .une for yr an didn't k ow but I don't run it alot