I like your speech and levels with great clarity. Some guys sound brakes up you have a hard time understanding what juse mumbled. You explain each and every piece without a lot of BS, YOU KEEP ON TRACK . SO GLAD I FOUND YOUR SITE. THANKS gain for share
@@mikencrcf6018 I concur. Some presenters mumble or worse still, resort to music and subscripts. Not being picky...I admire anyone who gives it a go. And yes, as @Mike ncrcf puts it, No BS and you stay on topic.
I just built a router table. Long time coming. I learned a lot from this video. I didn't know how I was going to use the router table exactly, but making templates is the way to go. Very pro.
Great presentation thankyou. Just a wee point for less experienced users, the router bit unguarded is a finger shredder...familiarity is then the trap that can bite... see at 56:12 as the finger quickly strays near the winding down bit. (Woodworker of 35 years and 10 fingers here)
These are so good! Thank you for making them. I've always dreamed of building a plane from scratch. Seeing yours fly makes me want to make that into a reality
Thanks. I'm doing that exact step now on a 50cc project that I've wanted to finish for several years. I pull it out and piddle with it when I get motivated. I'll put some pics on the FB group RC FOAM CORE WINGS.
Great video, Question 4 ya- I'm starting to build a new scratch build design of a Long EZ rc plane next. My question is how to go about making straight cuts on a angled wing in the back tobthen add the vertical stablizer fins/ rudders to each end of back wing? I can use simple triangle 🔺️ tool to make sure rudders are at 90 degrees pointing straight up. But since back win is angled. I'm unsure how to make a precise straight cut to atach rudders to keep plane tracking straight ahead in flight. Again, it's easy adding fins to a straight wing because ends are already straight. Any feedback would help. I can eyeball it but like to be alittle more accurate in build. If rudders aew slightly toe in or out a 1/16" might need to add more rudder trim later.
If you're just on episode two, you have a nice ride ahead. Enjoy!!! Thanks Oh, the video/audio quality gets better as I learn more about it and get better equipment. Just like everything else I guess; there's a learning curve. Check the Facebook group RC FOAM CORE WINGS
Loving the build series, cant wait to build one for myself! Having seen some of your other videos, the plane looks incredibly durable but still performs at a very high level.
Hey Mike, I just started following your series on building a scratch airplane. You said you use 1/8 white ply do you get that at Lowe’s Home Depot or are you ordering it from my airplane supply Hobby Shop?
Rite now I'm using a new hollow wood with som 3/8" wing foam board on top and tapped down. Works ok, i have 2 push the pin down and into door skin 2 hold parts solid. Having fun and really enjoying it. The assembly is 90% finished. I found your web site, really, really enjoy watching you work with all the power equipment. You look like you are for sure set up as an mass assembly shop. Those templates are HD ones for sure. Do you sell complete kits with plans and instructions for if so is pricing available on line?
Mike, I could swear i answered your question a few weeks back but it just showed up in my unanswered list. Sorry for the delay. I have considered selling a "short kit" version with a special assembly video. The problem is the amount of labor drives the fair cost up tremendously. Im still working out to do it so that guy who will never cut or sheet foam can enjoy the rest of the build process. This is a subject we discuss pretty regularly on the FB Group RC Foam Core Wings.
Hey Mike, at 1:32:49 you mentioned in text window that you would have links below. No links in your video description yet. Just reminding you. Thanks, and keep up the great job.
Yeah, thanks for the reminder Don. I'm traveling now but should be able to get those added either tonight or tomorrow. Feel free to comment/question or provide other input to help steer future videos in the edit process. I'm using DaVinci Resolve and I'm learning the software as we go. We have quite a journey ahead. Subsequent episodes will be considerably shorter now that the template building is essentially behind us. Again, thanks for your support and input. Mike
small wood parts bandsaw ... get a handheld one and mount it on it's own table top stand with it's own adjustable table ... and poof instant mini bandsaw for wood and its portable . Adam Savage did one like that be a good place to get a few ideas on what you may need or want to do ...
recording tip ... when using the power tools like the router .. MUTE or lower the sound ... not everyone likes to hear finger nails on a chalk board type sound louder than you are speaking ...
If you mean the surface of my work bench, its simply formica. Its just countertop surface from Lowes or Homedepot. It is very durable and easy to scrape glue off of. When I wear it out, I just sand it smooth and glue another layer on. It lasts me about 5 years of everyday use.
wow building the bunch (5-12) of router templates is very time consuming (80% of your build time) maybe build one adjustable template to build more than one airframe and one size Perhaps cutting up a wooden yardstick and use some wing nuts with stainless stove bolts?
It is Liteply. Many suppliers call it bending plywood or poplar ply. Its a thin layer of balsa between two poplar layers. 3 ply. Baltic birch is far too heavy. See the Facebook group RC Foam Core Wings for more details on this and other materials. Just search Liteply on the group
Birch would be way too heavy for the fuselage structure. I would definitely find Liteply or whatever a local equivalent would be. A quick Google search revealed several distributors here in the States. Since Liteply is a brand name guys in different parts of the world may find it called something else. It's 3 plies, poplar on the outside and balsa is the center ply. I know a lot of guys over seas buy it from Sweden. If you are here in the States, you should have very little problem finding it. My supplier is Aircraft Spruce in Peachtree City, GA. I drive 1.5 hours to get it but I buy about 20 sheets at a time. Properly stored, it will last indefinitely. I was told that some distributors will break a 4x8 sheet down and ship it. That would definitely save on shipping and provide much greater protection for the material. Don't let anyone roll a sheet up to ship it. You need it flat. I hope this helps.
Pilot kits from the 80s used a very similar material. There isnt a huge difference in weight between Liteply (or bending ply) and Baltic Birch, or Russian Birch. The birch is stronger than the poplar and you can make your webs slightly smaller with the same strength and nearly the exact weight of Liteply.
Well. Liteply is poplar with a balsa core. Its stiff unlike bend ply. I use bend ply in several applications that require a bend tighter than liteply can support. However, its very hard to keep rigid on long runs. As for Baltic birch (or birch), its a great product but its very expensive and very heavy in comparison as would be expected. The strength comparison isn't even close for those two. I use birch where needed for strength but otherwise, it's way too heavy. I have used 1/64 birch laminated to balsa in a pinch when I was out of Liteply. It works great but again, the birch is too expensive as an alternative solution. You may be referring to Luan for the 80s model planes. I know many of them, notably the Lanier Stinger kits, used Luan. The problems with Luan are primarily weight and durability. Luan has a tendency to de-laminate over time. Liteply is really the only solution that I know of. All modern arfs use it. High end manufacturers use very thin liteply and laminate a carbon fiber cloth to it to achieve a very light but incredibly strong material. That of course, is way out of the targeted budget for this project. Liteply is cheap if bought in large sheets. I will add however, that because of covid 19, its hard to find. My supplier says it will be December before they restock. This is due of course to the Asian balsa industry issues. Thanks for the input.
I found lite ply and i found the Russian birch and built the same plane and the light ply is about 40 percent light than Russian birch. RB was $12.50 for a 5ft x 5ft sheet.
There are certainly motors strong enough to pull it however the battery required would be prohibitively heavy. This plane is designed to be exceptionally tough and easy to replicate parts if needed. The price for that is weight. Unfortunately, gas engines are the only viable option for thrust at this point.
I get Liteply from Aircraft Spruce in Peachtree City GA. They have a west coast store too. Liteply is a brand name for bending plywood. It's sold all over the country. It's two outer layers of poplar with an inner layer of balsa. Join the fb group Foam Core Wings to find conversations about this and other materials.
Actually, make those slots 1/16 deeper than the thickness of you firewall material. So, in this case 3/16+1/16=1/4. That way, the fuse sides will extend 1/16 past the firewall and give you enough material to sand the entire firewall face very nicely. There was a short clip accidently omitted from the video. You will want to put a similar slot on the jig face to accept the fuse bottom. I had to use a chisel to form a slot in mine since I forgot it. Actually, it was very easy to do with a sharp chisel and ill likely do it the same way next time. Thats the missing clip.
The foam we use in this project is one-pound virgin white Expanded Polystyrene or EPS. Don’t confuse it with Styrofoam which the name brand for Extruded Polystyrene or XPS. Eps is much more durable than XPS. I obtained quotes of EPS a few weeks back and found several distributors across the USA who will deliver EPS for $8 to $9 per 4x24x48 slab. When you consider that you get a wing half and all the tail sections from one slab, it’s really cheap. Some distributors have a minimum order size of around $200 to $250 while others do not. So, shop around or get some guys to go in with you on a purchase. I will warn you though, it is addictive so get more foam than you think you will need. Especially if you start building the flying wing (Gnat Wing). They are very addictive and so cheap to build and fly. There is less than $30 in materials in the plane.
Here is a link to the 6 ply birch plywood. I have had really good luck with this supplier. I don't see 3/16-6ply on their site at the moment though. www.nationalbalsa.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=181224BP
What information do you need. It's much easier to communicate in the Facebook group rc foam core wings. There are many guys there building with these processes that can help.
look I don't want to be critical but the the sled use at 1:50 is bad practice...MUCH safer to pull the sled further back thus removing the spinning blade from the area where you are arranging pieces, your hand repeatedly passes less than 3 inches from the blade, I was cringing. It is a percentage game, one time in a thousand or 10 thousand the hand strays. Micro surgery isn't fun. The massive slot the blade is running in is asking for a small off-cut to jam, needs to just have blade clearance I extensively used sleds and jigs in my career
You are absolutely correct. I have no hearing in my left ear from a childhood accident. If you look closely, you may see an ear plug in my right ear at times. Its much easier while filming than ear muffler on and off.
I actually did a step better and went with a Rode Remote Mic a couple episodes down the road. Sorry you didn't like it, but its been a learning experience. Around episode 10, I changed to a Cannon 90D as well. Holy crap that took some time to figure out. As a side bar, I did buy the Rode Lavilier soon after this episode. I found there's no way I can work with a cord attached as much as I move around. I was constantly forgetting to unplug and pulling the tripod over. I figured best to spend $200 on a Remote mic than $1k on a camera.
Mike, not a build question but I'm interested to know what cameras you use for recording? I did see in one scene in a video, that it looked like a gopro of some sort and an external monitor. Can you please contact me so we can discuss this further. Mario..
I use the Cannon EOS 90D with the EF-S 18-55mm. I use my Samsung 10 for B roll. I do not have a GoPro. You may have seen the Rode wireless mic. It's small and square. I use DaVinci Resolve for editing. I'm still learning my way around the 90D. I am not a camera expert by any stretch.
I like your speech and levels with great clarity. Some guys sound brakes up you have a hard time understanding what juse mumbled. You explain each and every piece without a lot of BS, YOU KEEP ON TRACK . SO GLAD I FOUND YOUR SITE. THANKS gain for share
I really appreciate that feedback. That means more than you know!
@@mikencrcf6018 I concur. Some presenters
mumble or worse still, resort to music and subscripts. Not being picky...I admire anyone who gives it a go. And yes, as @Mike ncrcf puts it, No BS and you stay on topic.
I just built a router table. Long time coming. I learned a lot from this video. I didn't know how I was going to use the router table exactly, but making templates is the way to go. Very pro.
That's great to hear. I hope you enjoy the series.
I'm looking forward to getting back in the shop.
Very good information and content. Tank-you for sharing your experience. Much appreciated. Cheers from Canada.
Nice job and a great way to build a plane.
Great presentation thankyou.
Just a wee point for less experienced users, the router bit unguarded is a finger shredder...familiarity is then the trap that can bite...
see at 56:12 as the finger quickly strays near the winding down bit.
(Woodworker of 35 years and 10 fingers here)
Very nicely explained.. & Very neat clean work shop.
These are so good! Thank you for making them. I've always dreamed of building a plane from scratch. Seeing yours fly makes me want to make that into a reality
Make sure you join the FACEBOOK Group RC Foam Core Wings. It's a supplement to this video channel.
I just re-watched this video....a lot of info!👏👏👏
Thanks. I'm doing that exact step now on a 50cc project that I've wanted to finish for several years. I pull it out and piddle with it when I get motivated.
I'll put some pics on the FB group RC FOAM CORE WINGS.
I like your videos it's excellent 👍
Fantastic video. Well worth the wait. Thanks for your hard work and time
Getting anxious to see more episodes. Love whats your doing and learning from you.
Im uploading at least one episode today. Perhaps two more tomorrow.
Well the wait was worth it! 👏👏👏👏
Well presented and informative!
Que buena técnica .. Que pegamento usas para adherir el styrofoam y la balsa en alas?
Great video,
Question 4 ya-
I'm starting to build a new scratch build design of a Long EZ rc plane next.
My question is how to go about making straight cuts on a angled wing in the back tobthen add the vertical stablizer fins/ rudders to each end of back wing?
I can use simple triangle 🔺️ tool to make sure rudders are at 90 degrees pointing straight up.
But since back win is angled. I'm unsure how to make a precise straight cut to atach rudders to keep plane tracking straight ahead in flight.
Again, it's easy adding fins to a straight wing because ends are already straight.
Any feedback would help.
I can eyeball it but like to be alittle more accurate in build. If rudders aew slightly toe in or out a 1/16" might need to add more rudder trim later.
Wow! Nice work.
Thanks. If you're on #2, you have a ways to go. Enjoy!!!!
Take a look at the Facebook group rcfoamcorewings or the website rcfoamcorewings.com
You said it. Thanks!
Great video
Nice build and nice shop!!
Great video! Learned some stuff 👍
If you're just on episode two, you have a nice ride ahead. Enjoy!!! Thanks
Oh, the video/audio quality gets better as I learn more about it and get better equipment. Just like everything else I guess; there's a learning curve.
Check the Facebook group RC FOAM CORE WINGS
Loving the build series, cant wait to build one for myself! Having seen some of your other videos, the plane looks incredibly durable but still performs at a very high level.
Hey Mike, I just started following your series on building a scratch airplane. You said you use 1/8 white ply do you get that at Lowe’s Home Depot or are you ordering it from my airplane supply Hobby Shop?
Rite now I'm using a new hollow wood with som 3/8" wing foam board on top and tapped down. Works ok, i have 2 push the pin down and into door skin 2 hold parts solid. Having fun and really enjoying it. The assembly is 90% finished. I found your web site, really, really enjoy watching you work with all the power equipment. You look like you are for sure set up as an mass assembly shop. Those templates are HD ones for sure. Do you sell complete kits with plans and instructions for if so is pricing available on line?
Mike, I could swear i answered your question a few weeks back but it just showed up in my unanswered list. Sorry for the delay.
I have considered selling a "short kit" version with a special assembly video. The problem is the amount of labor drives the fair cost up tremendously. Im still working out to do it so that guy who will never cut or sheet foam can enjoy the rest of the build process. This is a subject we discuss pretty regularly on the FB Group RC Foam Core Wings.
Could you please tell me where you get your PETG 0.4 thickness? I'm looking for a tarnish brown color. Thanks
Hey Mike, at 1:32:49 you mentioned in text window that you would have links below. No links in your video description yet. Just reminding you. Thanks, and keep up the great job.
Yeah, thanks for the reminder Don. I'm traveling now but should be able to get those added either tonight or tomorrow. Feel free to comment/question or provide other input to help steer future videos in the edit process. I'm using DaVinci Resolve and I'm learning the software as we go. We have quite a journey ahead. Subsequent episodes will be considerably shorter now that the template building is essentially behind us.
Again, thanks for your support and input.
Mike
Great build! Gonna try building this for myself. I can't find part 3 though.
Still a superb build.
small wood parts bandsaw ... get a handheld one and mount it on it's own table top stand with it's own adjustable table ... and poof instant mini bandsaw for wood and its portable
.
Adam Savage did one like that be a good place to get a few ideas on what you may need or want to do ...
recording tip ... when using the power tools like the router .. MUTE or lower the sound ... not everyone likes to hear finger nails on a chalk board type sound louder than you are speaking ...
At 8:45 is wing height lined up with engine shaft?
What type of material is the white color of work table top where you were pinning the pieces down together. I'm new to building scratch.
If you mean the surface of my work bench, its simply formica. Its just countertop surface from Lowes or Homedepot. It is very durable and easy to scrape glue off of. When I wear it out, I just sand it smooth and glue another layer on. It lasts me about 5 years of everyday use.
@@mikencrcf6018 .
are you useing baltic birch 1/8 ply?
No.. liteply is 3 layers. The two outside layers are poplar and the inside is balsa.
It's often sold as Bending Ply. It's easy to find
wow building the bunch (5-12) of router templates is very time consuming (80% of your build time) maybe build one adjustable template to build more than one airframe and one size Perhaps cutting up a wooden yardstick and use some wing nuts with stainless stove bolts?
That's a cool idea. The wonderful thing about scratch building is that you can make whatever you want.
I look forward to seeing your version.
Is the plywood that you are using Baltic Burch or do you use something else?
It is Liteply. Many suppliers call it bending plywood or poplar ply.
Its a thin layer of balsa between two poplar layers. 3 ply.
Baltic birch is far too heavy.
See the Facebook group RC Foam Core Wings for more details on this and other materials.
Just search Liteply on the group
Is Russian birch 1/8 ply ok to use or is it to heavy? My plywood supply company only has that type.
Birch would be way too heavy for the fuselage structure. I would definitely find Liteply or whatever a local equivalent would be. A quick Google search revealed several distributors here in the States. Since Liteply is a brand name guys in different parts of the world may find it called something else. It's 3 plies, poplar on the outside and balsa is the center ply. I know a lot of guys over seas buy it from Sweden. If you are here in the States, you should have very little problem finding it. My supplier is Aircraft Spruce in Peachtree City, GA. I drive 1.5 hours to get it but I buy about 20 sheets at a time. Properly stored, it will last indefinitely. I was told that some distributors will break a 4x8 sheet down and ship it. That would definitely save on shipping and provide much greater protection for the material. Don't let anyone roll a sheet up to ship it. You need it flat. I hope this helps.
Pilot kits from the 80s used a very similar material. There isnt a huge difference in weight between Liteply (or bending ply) and Baltic Birch, or Russian Birch. The birch is stronger than the poplar and you can make your webs slightly smaller with the same strength and nearly the exact weight of Liteply.
Well. Liteply is poplar with a balsa core. Its stiff unlike bend ply. I use bend ply in several applications that require a bend tighter than liteply can support. However, its very hard to keep rigid on long runs.
As for Baltic birch (or birch), its a great product but its very expensive and very heavy in comparison as would be expected. The strength comparison isn't even close for those two. I use birch where needed for strength but otherwise, it's way too heavy.
I have used 1/64 birch laminated to balsa in a pinch when I was out of Liteply. It works great but again, the birch is too expensive as an alternative solution.
You may be referring to Luan for the 80s model planes. I know many of them, notably the Lanier Stinger kits, used Luan. The problems with Luan are primarily weight and durability. Luan has a tendency to de-laminate over time.
Liteply is really the only solution that I know of. All modern arfs use it.
High end manufacturers use very thin liteply and laminate a carbon fiber cloth to it to achieve a very light but incredibly strong material. That of course, is way out of the targeted budget for this project.
Liteply is cheap if bought in large sheets. I will add however, that because of covid 19, its hard to find. My supplier says it will be December before they restock. This is due of course to the Asian balsa industry issues.
Thanks for the input.
I found lite ply and i found the Russian birch and built the same plane and the light ply is about 40 percent light than Russian birch. RB was $12.50 for a 5ft x 5ft sheet.
Wow! Thats a killer price for 5x5 liteply. Its 1/8 right? What is the distributor?
Is there a strong enough electric engine that would fly this plane
There are certainly motors strong enough to pull it however the battery required would be prohibitively heavy.
This plane is designed to be exceptionally tough and easy to replicate parts if needed. The price for that is weight.
Unfortunately, gas engines are the only viable option for thrust at this point.
Where do you source your lite ply?
I get Liteply from Aircraft Spruce in Peachtree City GA.
They have a west coast store too.
Liteply is a brand name for bending plywood.
It's sold all over the country.
It's two outer layers of poplar with an inner layer of balsa.
Join the fb group Foam Core Wings to find conversations about this and other materials.
Respected sir would you teach me rc airplane making
How deep was your register slots? I’m guessing the thickness of the bulkhead. 3/16?
Actually, make those slots 1/16 deeper than the thickness of you firewall material. So, in this case 3/16+1/16=1/4.
That way, the fuse sides will extend 1/16 past the firewall and give you enough material to sand the entire firewall face very nicely.
There was a short clip accidently omitted from the video. You will want to put a similar slot on the jig face to accept the fuse bottom. I had to use a chisel to form a slot in mine since I forgot it. Actually, it was very easy to do with a sharp chisel and ill likely do it the same way next time. Thats the missing clip.
Could you post your template with a graph showing all measurements
Please join the FACEBOOK Group RC Foam Core Wings for help with these sorts of things. I'd be glad to get you whatever you need.
sou inscrito no seu canal
Can you or can I send contact information for some input on creating my build. I am enjoying your videos on this scratch build
Of course. Email me at cpd551@gmail.com or PM me on Facebook. I'll give my phone number via a more direct method.
What is the name of the foam you are making use of
The foam we use in this project is one-pound virgin white Expanded Polystyrene or EPS. Don’t confuse it with Styrofoam which the name brand for Extruded Polystyrene or XPS. Eps is much more durable than XPS.
I obtained quotes of EPS a few weeks back and found several distributors across the USA who will deliver EPS for $8 to $9 per 4x24x48 slab. When you consider that you get a wing half and all the tail sections from one slab, it’s really cheap.
Some distributors have a minimum order size of around $200 to $250 while others do not. So, shop around or get some guys to go in with you on a purchase. I will warn you though, it is addictive so get more foam than you think you will need. Especially if you start building the flying wing (Gnat Wing). They are very addictive and so cheap to build and fly. There is less than $30 in materials in the plane.
por favor en español y los planos dónde está
Here is a link to the 6 ply birch plywood. I have had really good luck with this supplier. I don't see 3/16-6ply on their site at the moment though.
www.nationalbalsa.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=181224BP
Sir ji 🙏
I do not see any links
What information do you need. It's much easier to communicate in the Facebook group rc foam core wings. There are many guys there building with these processes that can help.
look I don't want to be critical but the the sled use at 1:50 is bad practice...MUCH safer to pull the sled further back thus removing the spinning blade from the area where you are arranging pieces, your hand repeatedly passes less than 3 inches from the blade, I was cringing.
It is a percentage game, one time in a thousand or 10 thousand the hand strays. Micro surgery isn't fun.
The massive slot the blade is running in is asking for a small off-cut to jam, needs to just have blade clearance
I extensively used sleds and jigs in my career
Use some hearing protection with those power tools and your future self will thank you.
You are absolutely correct. I have no hearing in my left ear from a childhood accident. If you look closely, you may see an ear plug in my right ear at times. Its much easier while filming than ear muffler on and off.
Класс .
большое тебе спасибо
şablon pdf
Lavalier mic. You really need to look into them, buddy. The audio of this video makes it borderline unwatchable.
I actually did a step better and went with a Rode Remote Mic a couple episodes down the road. Sorry you didn't like it, but its been a learning experience. Around episode 10, I changed to a Cannon 90D as well. Holy crap that took some time to figure out.
As a side bar, I did buy the Rode Lavilier soon after this episode. I found there's no way I can work with a cord attached as much as I move around. I was constantly forgetting to unplug and pulling the tripod over. I figured best to spend $200 on a Remote mic than $1k on a camera.
Poor audio
That was my second video ever. A few episodes later I bought a remote mic..
Mike, not a build question but I'm interested to know what cameras you use for recording? I did see in one scene in a video, that it looked like a gopro of some sort and an external monitor. Can you please contact me so we can discuss this further. Mario..
I use the Cannon EOS 90D with the EF-S 18-55mm. I use my Samsung 10 for B roll.
I do not have a GoPro. You may have seen the Rode wireless mic. It's small and square.
I use DaVinci Resolve for editing.
I'm still learning my way around the 90D. I am not a camera expert by any stretch.
@@mikencrcf6018 Thanks Mike, keep at it. Love your work..