Part numbers for 2009-2014 Jazz and City: 11855-P72-000: Rubber grommet 17130-PWA-003: PCV -> applicable to other small Honda vehicles (confirm before buying) 17131-RB0-000 or 17131-RB1-000: PCV Hose -> if is damaged or feels flimsy/squishy replace it as it could collapse during PCV operation resulting in flow restriction. --------------------- Honda FIT 2nd gen 2009-2014: 17130-PND-A01: PCV 94109-14000: Washer for PCV -> same 14mm washer as oil drain plug for Honda's 17131-RP3-A00: PCV hose
I had a piece fall inside, have not had any issues. If it stricts air flow then that could be an issue as it cant vent the pressure. Similiar as if the pcv was bad, oil may leak out, more oil consumption.
@@user-pq9lb8ml1m I would would not know any online shop for your location. The best option to ensure if you want a genuine part is to go to Honda, tell them you want this part 30530-RB0-004 (double check if its the knock sensor you need). They may not have it in stock but they can always order it in. For online shops ask them and check any feedback if they indeed sell genuine parts.
Hi may pcv valve got broke the other pieces is inside na pvc room is there a problem if I can install a new pcv valve without getting the other pieces inside ?
If it has blocked the passage inside then yes it can be a problem. I don't think a small few pieces will block it, maybe restrict the air flow, depends. I also dropped a small piece inside on a previous occasion. Have had zero issues.
The issue is if it has blocked the passage inside. Try getting a wire of some sort to see if you can fish it out. Else just install new one and monitor your oil levels. If you notice increased oil consumption after then you have open it up, the breather plate, and get it out.
The PCV valve on my 2009 Honda Fit does not look like this one. It is the same metal one that is on the Honda K-series engines. What year is the one in this video?
I mention this at 4:43. Yes your right its a metal one, way easier to remove and no rubber part to deal with. The one shown in the video is for a 2010 Jazz/City.
I have a 2010 1.3 City. I am facing this issue where under 2k rpm the car feels very heavy on each gear, but as soon as I reach 1.9k - 2k rpm, the car becomes extremely light. The PCV valve has never been changed, but there is no oil reduction. As for the mileage in my most recent tank, I got around 16.8 km/l on ODO (571 km), it is mixed Isb highway driving + within society as well, the actual figure for that tank was 14.5 km/l. However, with a light foot and very soft accelerations, over a 60+ km round trip I do get over 21 km/l on display. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give a little background. I drive the car at 60-70 km/h and never over 70.
It should be to some extent. I would use an electric contact cleaner or MAF cleaner, as it does not leave any residue behind. However, if the PCV valve is plastic made, it will eventually fail. The plastic will become brittle and stop functioning. So this is why I recommend replacement.
@@TheWrenchWiz thanks for the reply. I took mine off with the help of a mechanic. Its metal made . However its allowing air past both directions. And even cleaning it with spray didnt help. We ask honda dealer a new one but its only going to be available in 7 days. May that be the reason why my oil is getting burned? It never did. Now it disappear half quarter every 4/5 k km. Thanks in advance
If the passage inside is blocked, then then its a problem. Long time back I had a small piece fall inside, caused no issues. Monitor your oil levels. If you see excessive consumption or maybe a leak start somewhere, it could indicate the passage is blocked. That breather plate isnt complex to remove, held on with some bolts and sealed with gasket maker. Getting to it would be more time consuming.
@@TheWrenchWiz Can you make a video on how to open the breather plate? Because there are other components infront of it preventing me to access the breather plate bolts
The old PCV valve still does rattle but is it at 100% functionality? I cant say. But the oil residue I showed in the video (around the PCV seal) is an indicator that something isn’t right. This is a plastic PCV and it will eventually fail. By fail I mean it will also lose structual integrity, being exposed to many heat cycles. This time it took around 10 minutes to get everything out. I took it out once after it had 100% failed. It took hours as it broke into pieces and all effort was to make sure pieces didnt fall inside the oil seperator. I also had more oil loss between oil changes. So I now change it as a preventive measure, rather than wait for it to completely fail.
If it doesnt rattle when you shake it, its gone. But again, just because it rattles does not mean its 100% perfect. You can test the airflow too. It should only go in one direction, if you can blow air both ways, its gone.
You can get more oil consumption. You can start burning oil, oil can go past seals. Engine could idle rough, have overall poorer engine performance and milleage could suffer.
Part numbers for 2009-2014 Jazz and City:
11855-P72-000: Rubber grommet
17130-PWA-003: PCV -> applicable to other small Honda vehicles (confirm before buying)
17131-RB0-000 or 17131-RB1-000: PCV Hose -> if is damaged or feels flimsy/squishy replace it as it could collapse during PCV operation resulting in flow restriction.
---------------------
Honda FIT 2nd gen 2009-2014:
17130-PND-A01: PCV
94109-14000: Washer for PCV -> same 14mm washer as oil drain plug for Honda's
17131-RP3-A00: PCV hose
How tight should a occ be torqued?
Самое полезное видео из всех. Спасибо
Рад, что это помогло
I REPLACED MINE HAS 2 PCV VALVES ON 2021 BLAZER WITH 38K MILES AFTER THAT DRIVE LIKE NEW. YOU SHOULD DO THE SAME.
I did replace it.
OK 👌 THANKS
V well explained.
Make a video of valve adjustment on this model.
That is planned. But I need to wait a bit more for valves to get out of spec with milleage, so it will be a while.
Thank you for this video
What will happen if its get inside?
I had a piece fall inside, have not had any issues. If it stricts air flow then that could be an issue as it cant vent the pressure. Similiar as if the pcv was bad, oil may leak out, more oil consumption.
Interesting
Informative
Very well explained. Anyway, do you have a link where i can buy a knock sensor for Honda city 2009? Thank you
where are you located?
From Philippines sir😬 any link for online shops (example shopee) sir will be much appreciated 🙏🙏
@@user-pq9lb8ml1m I would would not know any online shop for your location.
The best option to ensure if you want a genuine part is to go to Honda, tell them you want this part 30530-RB0-004 (double check if its the knock sensor you need). They may not have it in stock but they can always order it in.
For online shops ask them and check any feedback if they indeed sell genuine parts.
Hi may pcv valve got broke the other pieces is inside na pvc room is there a problem if I can install a new pcv valve without getting the other pieces inside ?
If it has blocked the passage inside then yes it can be a problem. I don't think a small few pieces will block it, maybe restrict the air flow, depends.
I also dropped a small piece inside on a previous occasion. Have had zero issues.
Hi sir, what happens if most of the grommet fall inside? I've tried to took it off but most of the grommet fell inside and i couldn't get it out
The issue is if it has blocked the passage inside. Try getting a wire of some sort to see if you can fish it out.
Else just install new one and monitor your oil levels. If you notice increased oil consumption after then you have open it up, the breather plate, and get it out.
The PCV valve on my 2009 Honda Fit does not look like this one. It is the same metal one that is on the Honda K-series engines. What year is the one in this video?
I mention this at 4:43. Yes your right its a metal one, way easier to remove and no rubber part to deal with. The one shown in the video is for a 2010 Jazz/City.
I missed that. Thank you.
Lovely video man. I'll now go check mine :)
I have a 2010 1.3 City. I am facing this issue where under 2k rpm the car feels very heavy on each gear, but as soon as I reach 1.9k - 2k rpm, the car becomes extremely light. The PCV valve has never been changed, but there is no oil reduction. As for the mileage in my most recent tank, I got around 16.8 km/l on ODO (571 km), it is mixed Isb highway driving + within society as well, the actual figure for that tank was 14.5 km/l. However, with a light foot and very soft accelerations, over a 60+ km round trip I do get over 21 km/l on display. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give a little background. I drive the car at 60-70 km/h and never over 70.
Is it possible to clean it with a spray? Instead of buying one.
It should be to some extent. I would use an electric contact cleaner or MAF cleaner, as it does not leave any residue behind.
However, if the PCV valve is plastic made, it will eventually fail. The plastic will become brittle and stop functioning. So this is why I recommend replacement.
@@TheWrenchWiz thanks for the reply. I took mine off with the help of a mechanic. Its metal made . However its allowing air past both directions. And even cleaning it with spray didnt help. We ask honda dealer a new one but its only going to be available in 7 days. May that be the reason why my oil is getting burned? It never did. Now it disappear half quarter every 4/5 k km. Thanks in advance
Yes a faulty PCV valve can cause oil loss/burn. Inspect the hose that goes from the PCV valve to the intake manifold, if its oily have it cleaned.
is it okay sir? when i remove the pcv valve of my honda jazz, almost half of the grommet fell inside.
If the passage inside is blocked, then then its a problem. Long time back I had a small piece fall inside, caused no issues.
Monitor your oil levels. If you see excessive consumption or maybe a leak start somewhere, it could indicate the passage is blocked. That breather plate isnt complex to remove, held on with some bolts and sealed with gasket maker. Getting to it would be more time consuming.
@@TheWrenchWiz Can you make a video on how to open the breather plate? Because there are other components infront of it preventing me to access the breather plate bolts
@@SmokeyCat407 I will have a look whats in the way and get back to you.
How did you knew that your PCV valve is faulty?
The old PCV valve still does rattle but is it at 100% functionality? I cant say. But the oil residue I showed in the video (around the PCV seal) is an indicator that something isn’t right. This is a plastic PCV and it will eventually fail. By fail I mean it will also lose structual integrity, being exposed to many heat cycles.
This time it took around 10 minutes to get everything out. I took it out once after it had 100% failed. It took hours as it broke into pieces and all effort was to make sure pieces didnt fall inside the oil seperator. I also had more oil loss between oil changes. So I now change it as a preventive measure, rather than wait for it to completely fail.
How does one knows that PCV value is not functioning?
If it doesnt rattle when you shake it, its gone. But again, just because it rattles does not mean its 100% perfect.
You can test the airflow too. It should only go in one direction, if you can blow air both ways, its gone.
how will the car behave if the valve is faulty?@@TheWrenchWiz
You can get more oil consumption. You can start burning oil, oil can go past seals. Engine could idle rough, have overall poorer engine performance and milleage could suffer.