Yes I watched your video also lol I believe mines is the fuel pressure regulator but atp I’m willing to replace everything that way I know it’s new parts and hopefully won’t have to replace anything
@@bonchicodavis1444 I understand! I just did the air pump delete. (I have a 95 so it’s OBD1, no need to reprogram). There’s so much more room now that I might do the dreaded spark plugs and wires. 😂
Thank you for posting...I have a 96 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham cutting back when accelerating but smooths out once up to speed doesn't do it all the time... Today the check engine light came on during idle after driving kinda ruff idle and then went out
So recently had a customer tow in a 94 Roadmaster w/LT1. He got it for free from a friend of his that gave up on messing with it; was sitting for a couple years in hot Arizona weather, where it gained a MASSIVE amount of them horrendous Arizona cactus needles throughout the entire engine bay & undercarriage of vehicle! Joy. The person he got it from said he attempted to get it running properly back then w/changing out Optispark, Injectors &, new fuel pump. This car has way low millage for its year & appears not to have had much use in over a decade. I first found that rubber elbow for vapor solenoid tube to nipple on throttle body, totally rotted off. I don’t any longer have an OBD1 reader so, been having to test ea. individual sensor/component. Engine starts & stalls. Discovered fuel pump was a super cheep Chineseium POS; installed brand new Delphi pump w/new sending unit. Fuel pressure was still way low. New FPR. Starts right up better but also backfires a bit. Discovered that replacement Optispark distributor was also super cheap Chineseium & its Hall-Effect/rotor wheel was pressed onto its drive pulley shaft about 10° off. Luckily the original GM unit was in the car. I gutted it to use original distributor base w/newer cap & rotor. Timing’s perfect, no more backfiring but, still stalls. Will run great as long as manipulating throttle above idle circuit. Cleaned out IAC & tested; works. Cleaned up MAF & MAP; tested. ‘Bout the only thing i didn’t test is its TPS or, check that rubber diaphragm gasket under that plate on top of throttle body. I disconnect large vacuum hose from brake booster & plugged that off, in case booster was bad, pulling in major vacuum leak. Still stalls anywheres near idle circuit. Check Engine light does not stay on; no codes. 🤬
Sounds like you have done a ton! Did you try spraying carb cleaner around the base of the intake and see if it perks up? I recently did an intake on mine and doing a couple things: the intake bolts on these LT1s come lose, leak oil and cause vacuum leaks. Second I found my hvac and fuel pressure vacuum lines had seen better days. Recently as well, I just put in a new set of injectors and found I had a very dirty old ones. Fuel pressure at idle is about 38-42PSI. Keep after it, you’ll get it!
@@KeithBeTatted Yes! Some time after I posted that long-winded comment/question rant, lol. It had a myriad of minor issues going on with several sensors; some defective & a couple out of synch. Corrected all of that, one by one &, runs pretty dang good! Trans had some issues as well, as that was apparently the one thing rats seemed to chew on, when it sat for years. They chewed up the insulation and even thru a few of, the wiring loom that feeds into trans via vertical bulk connector, to shift solenoids. Repaired all of that & shifts ok. Still some intermittent shift issues.. thinking some slow migration seepage leak of trans fluid has worked up into & thru that connector, shorting solenoid signals. Everything else seems fine, thus far!
Ive got a issue with my 95 9C1 acting like torque converter lock up is kicking in and out at 50-55mph or whenever it shifts to 4th gear. The problem started when i drove 2800miles round trip to Florida and back and really got worse leaving Florida and i was told and read the symptoms of a failed optispark and everything ive read i had going on. Changed the opti and no change besides more power, changed the TPS and had a hell of allot more power but wouldnt shift out of first so that TPS was bad from factory so slapped the old one back in and got another one ordered hoping that solves my problem but im definitely gonna try cleaning the TB and seafoam treat the intake manifold as well as get a new IAC valve. I drive 94 miles a day to work and home so i gotta have it driving top notch til i get another daily.
Use a scanner to eliminate pcm command. If its commanded and no LU, its probably tcc solenoid or tc itself. It also sounds like you might have some other issues plaguing into the whole system. Some others things to check might be the vacuum to the opti venting properly. I would have to personally see and drive the car to help much more, but I hope that helps!
The coolant bypass is contributing to the carbon buildup. The hotter the throttle body the less the fumes will condense on the surfaces. In addition a warm throttle body keeps the throttle plates from icing up in humid cool environments. GM did not go thru the extra cost of making the throttle body heated by coolant if it was not beneficial.
@@housechillin8386 The only advantage to colder air is the desity is higher which then allows more fuel and more HP. Cold air is not good for operating in already cold environments ( it only need be 40F) for moisture to freeze in the throttle plates, not obly causing them to stick, but also reducing the flow rate of the air. The combustion engineers have several mandates , of both performance , fuel efficiency, and low emisions. Over the 6 or more decades engineers have used Early Fuel Evaporization, Heat Riser systems, to get the combustion clean as early as possible without rough running. My 68 dodge had a terrible carburator icing problem, as do many old carburated air planes. In addition engines do combustion more efficiently at higher temp, which is why thermostats are often 180F to 195F. Hot rodders are only concerned about horsepower, not efficiency, and not emissions or rough running while warming up.
Great video👍. I got a 96 ss that was reving high. Cleaned tb, iac, replaced a few hoses. After I put it back together it starts rough with low idle and stalls after 30-60 sec. I've checked everything 3 times - hoses, wires(found a broken1), iac .. My iac was intact but slight rust on the tip. Can I screw the iac back in? To check if its jammed? Thanks
Thanks! As far as I recall, you can screw the IAC back together if it came apart or it stuck on the housing. Make sure the bore and the spring are clean and in good working order. Once you have it back together, you can use an ohm meter and check resistance on the plunger. Resistance should be 10-14 ohms. If the resistance is good on the IAC, check voltage at the connector. I’m pretty sure it should be 6.0-8.5v IIRC. Next I would be check the continuity of the ground and wires to the PCM. On the PCM Connector C3 (clear) #1 is the light blue/white wire, IAC coil A high. #2 blue/black wire is IAC Coil A low. #5 green/black IAC coil B low. #6 green/white IAC could B high. Good luck!
@@Twostallgarage helped some. Still has a little bit of a stumble.. I changed the PCV, ICM, EGR, IAC, throttle position sensor, used Lucas and Berryman to clean injectors… looking at testing the injectors to see if I have a bad one
Owned a 95 9C1 If you're having throttle/power or idle issues check the optispark. I changed about $500 in parts and ended up selling it. Went overseas, guy calls me and says it was the optispark. Still hurt behind that 🤣
Yeah, I changed that few years back. Worked out. Stumble I had was idler air control was stuck. Runs great now. Them 9c1s are great though. I’m looking for another one currently.
95 Caprice. Car was running good then all of the sudden it started shaking with low idle let it sit for about 3 or 4 months now it wont start it turn over but no start
by the way that's not belt squeaking, it's you belt tensioner bearing on it's way out, and when it goes out it's very violent. it happened to me didn't take care of it, thought it's alternator,!!
Start with the fuel pressure. You should be at 38-45PSI at idle, then ohm the tps sensor, can see how to do this here: www.impalassforum.com/threads/tps-voltage-and-testing.1100793/ Ohm the IAC: www.impalassforum.com/threads/idle-air-control-motor-how-fragile.1128553/#post-10603609
Could be a number of things. I’d check fuel pressure under load, see if the IAC is cleaned and free of carbon, check for vacuum leaks, check transmission fluid, check the spark plug wires for grounding. Do the basics before firing a parts cannon.
Question of concern. Was driving 1995 Impala perfectly fine. No lights on dash. All of a sudden when accelerating the engine light comes on. The oil level low comes on then it turned off keeping the engine light on. And the AC got humid as well . I restarted the car and no lights on dash and ac came back on cold. It’s been happening each time I take it out. Last couple cruises Mind you. The ride feels a bit sluggish once the engine light comes on while driving. It clears once restating the car Anybody had these issues. Running on 80k miles. Taken care of stock 5.7
Couple things of info needed: are you having this same issue when the AC is off? Have you ever given the car any tuneups (plugs/wire/opti/coil)? Is the car garage kept or parked out? Any mods (cold air intake/exhaust)? Knowing this info, I can start to help walk through steps I’d take.
@@Twostallgarage I haven’t ran it without the ac. And I got the car 6 months ago was running perfectly fine until now. Yes super cleaned garaged kept and maintained
No mods either all stock. Also when the Engine light and oil level low light comes on when accelerating during random drive it comes to a holt. Like I can’t go no more it stops the accerlerlation/power and ac gets humid until I restart then a couple blocks down it does it again
@@JohnDoe-jd7mf could be a number of things. The basics I’d look at would be the AC compressor is not on the verge of locking up or the AC system is under charged or over charged with Freon. Even if the AC blows cold for 20-30 mins, it could be overcharged and freezing up the heater core. Next, check that opti. They are known for hairline cracks and letting in moisture, causing the spark to go nuts inside the cap and arc to different spots. Next I would look for any wires that might be broken or loose on the compressor circuit. This might be causing the pcm to cause a limp mode scenario and flash the oil light, or the oil light it’s own issue. I’d look over the oil pressure switch (rear drivers side of the LT-1, under the EGR) the sensor could have a loose wire or gummed with oil or just is failing. Simple test with the ohm meter can determine this. This would be a good time to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed as well or look into a 9C1 pressure switch, which will give more accurate gauge movement on the stock cluster. If all these check out, next oil change crack open the filter and look for glitter and make sure the engines not hurt and truly low on oil. There are a lot more things I’d personally check over and clean up (basic maintenance like tune up and the IAC cleaning) while I’m in it this far, but hope it gives you a starting point.
@@Twostallgarage Preciate it response I really appreciate it. I’ll look into the grounds and also the sensor I’ll start there, is there a way to tell if the Opti is failing? And if so is the opti change a pain in the ass or what are the steps to changing it?
I’m having a problem with my 95 impala ss it was running fine until I took the Throttlebody off n cleaned it now it idles high n check engine light is now on I change the idle control sensor and the throttle position sensor and nothing still idle high like I said it was fine before I took the Throttlebody off
Did you check and make sure the plunger isn’t stuck on the IAC? I ended up having to replace mine and clean the bore out. Also, might want to check the throttle position sensor out with the lamp on and make sure none of those wires are damaged
@@Twostallgarage the throttle position sensor wire can see bear wire can that be a problem n the other sensor gos up n down I plugged it to the wire n can see it go up n down so that means it’s good rite
@@Twostallgarage thats what I did it’s good and last night I don’t know what I did but got it too idle a lil bit lower now Stead of high idle I don’t know if I need to drive it a lil more or dose the sensor need to be re set
Could that aftermarket air intake/air cleaner have anything to do with all the carbon buildup. I've got a 95 Roadmaster with the same engine, still has original home plate and stock air cleaner, never checked the inside of the intake for carbon buildup though.
? Why when i crank its no problem idle high, put in drive it’s like it want to take off by itself tires screeching wail foot on breaks, long time to shift an jerking every shift
I had this issue on my 1996. Turned out to be the throttle position sensor. You can pull it off and check the resistance to see if it needs to be replaced. Rockauto sells these for $15 bucks or $32 for the Delphi.
Side of you’re intake elbow, to the opti spark, then to the side of the intake. Keeps a vacuum on the opti to vent the spark and prevent corrosion and condensation.
Great vid, do you still have your LT1? If so, check out my TB coolant bypass vid, we show how to keep the TB even cooler for a few extra ponies 🐴🐎.... Also, did you change your pcv?
The theory is you plum the hose from the over flow tank into the steel tube on the passenger side from its stock location, it won’t circulate coolant around the intake and give lower intake temps which provide more HP.. “allegedly” I just added a vacuum cap to mine to make it look cleaner in the engine bay. It’s just a show item and not needed.
@@Twostallgarage yeah I know but you had the top port and the bottom port blocked off on the side of throttle body I know the bottom hose is for the coolant bypass but the top port not sure if that’s pcvv but it’s blocked off
@@Twostallgarage ok cool got one more question havin a low idle stall issue like you where having changed coolant temp sensor and cleaning iac and cleaned throttle body was still running low and stalling today going to change throttle body seals and now change the iac valve see what happens any other tips?
@@adrianbinger8397 make sure the IAC is giving you a proper reading when testing it with an ohm meter, grounds are good/have proper continuity on each wire, and the plunger isn’t stuck like mine was.
Hi, I have ? My 95 impala lt1 start right up when cold. idle very smooth in.park. The problem I'm having when I try accelerate from a take off it has no low end power no back fire..It Bogs up to be speed...you have any idea what could that be? Ps I change wires optic spark cap
I’d start with the basics, but you probably have the spark plug wires out of whack. I’d revisit the firing order. I did this on mine and turned out I crossed two at the opti. Ran fine at idle, but back fired and bogged under load.
@@pickingpanda1134 I used assorted pack of vacuum caps from the help section from the parts store. One common plug you could use is an old spark plug boot and trim to fit.
Ok hopefully someone can help me? I have thr problem of my car running for about an hour maybe 2 and thr whole car acceleration goes out and thr car stalls and shuts off. Give it a few mins the mf cranks back up but would eventually shut off. I haven't had it shut off in a min cause I haven't drove it a long distance. Has anyone had this problem? Also while in gear if it's driven for a long period once I put it in park and press the gas it has a sound as if there is something blocking the air flow. If I press the gas hard it'll flow thru. Anyone had this one also. I tried to explain best I could
@@thegreatest2547 start with checking first plate and all the intake from the air filter to the throttle body. Very simple to pull apart and inspect. Look for mouse houses and other debris that could block air flow. Next, check fuel pressure with a gauge. Schrader valve and fuel pressure gauge will can help you in this. (Watch my fuel pump video for more inside how too). This will tell you if you have weak fuel pump or blockage in the lines, or maybe the fuel filter needs to be changed. You should have 35-45lbs of fuel pressure, key in and not running. Next check the spark. Things might be getting hot (after your two hour run time) and moving. Test the ignition coil and check grounds. Then inspect plugs/wires. Also, check the vacuum tube from the intake elbow to the opti spark. Should have a good vacuum when the engines running to remove the oxidation from spark in the opti. Do you have any check engine lights on?
@@thegreatest2547 this could result then in too much fuel being put in and fouling plugs. Sounds like you need air pump delete/tune up/pcm flashed to delete the pump.
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Required viewing for anyone with an lt-1!
I've been going through the same thing. Hopefully this solves it. Thanks for the upload
No problem. Hope it solves your issue as well. Seems like the LT-1 has so many hidden quarks to it. Thanks for watching.
I’m having these issues and I’m no mechanic thanks for the lessons ima try it hopefully I don’t screw up 😂
Good luck to you!
I also did a video on this topic. It was the vacuum lines for me. I’m glad you solved your issue.
Awesome! I’ll check it out. Yeah, seems to be a common things vacuum or IAC or both.
Yes I watched your video also lol I believe mines is the fuel pressure regulator but atp I’m willing to replace everything that way I know it’s new parts and hopefully won’t have to replace anything
@@bonchicodavis1444 I understand! I just did the air pump delete. (I have a 95 so it’s OBD1, no need to reprogram). There’s so much more room now that I might do the dreaded spark plugs and wires. 😂
Thank you for posting...I have a 96 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham cutting back when accelerating but smooths out once up to speed doesn't do it all the time... Today the check engine light came on during idle after driving kinda ruff idle and then went out
Check that IAC, that will cause the symptoms!
Will do...Thanks
So recently had a customer tow in a 94 Roadmaster w/LT1. He got it for free from a friend of his that gave up on messing with it; was sitting for a couple years in hot Arizona weather, where it gained a MASSIVE amount of them horrendous Arizona cactus needles throughout the entire engine bay & undercarriage of vehicle! Joy. The person he got it from said he attempted to get it running properly back then w/changing out Optispark, Injectors &, new fuel pump. This car has way low millage for its year & appears not to have had much use in over a decade. I first found that rubber elbow for vapor solenoid tube to nipple on throttle body, totally rotted off. I don’t any longer have an OBD1 reader so, been having to test ea. individual sensor/component. Engine starts & stalls. Discovered fuel pump was a super cheep Chineseium POS; installed brand new Delphi pump w/new sending unit. Fuel pressure was still way low. New FPR. Starts right up better but also backfires a bit. Discovered that replacement Optispark distributor was also super cheap Chineseium & its Hall-Effect/rotor wheel was pressed onto its drive pulley shaft about 10° off. Luckily the original GM unit was in the car. I gutted it to use original distributor base w/newer cap & rotor. Timing’s perfect, no more backfiring but, still stalls. Will run great as long as manipulating throttle above idle circuit. Cleaned out IAC & tested; works. Cleaned up MAF & MAP; tested. ‘Bout the only thing i didn’t test is its TPS or, check that rubber diaphragm gasket under that plate on top of throttle body. I disconnect large vacuum hose from brake booster & plugged that off, in case booster was bad, pulling in major vacuum leak. Still stalls anywheres near idle circuit. Check Engine light does not stay on; no codes. 🤬
Sounds like you have done a ton! Did you try spraying carb cleaner around the base of the intake and see if it perks up? I recently did an intake on mine and doing a couple things: the intake bolts on these LT1s come lose, leak oil and cause vacuum leaks. Second I found my hvac and fuel pressure vacuum lines had seen better days.
Recently as well, I just put in a new set of injectors and found I had a very dirty old ones. Fuel pressure at idle is about 38-42PSI.
Keep after it, you’ll get it!
You ever get this solved?
@@KeithBeTatted Yes! Some time after I posted that long-winded comment/question rant, lol. It had a myriad of minor issues going on with several sensors; some defective & a couple out of synch. Corrected all of that, one by one &, runs pretty dang good! Trans had some issues as well, as that was apparently the one thing rats seemed to chew on, when it sat for years. They chewed up the insulation and even thru a few of, the wiring loom that feeds into trans via vertical bulk connector, to shift solenoids. Repaired all of that & shifts ok. Still some intermittent shift issues.. thinking some slow migration seepage leak of trans fluid has worked up into & thru that connector, shorting solenoid signals. Everything else seems fine, thus far!
On the vacuum boot that failed from the evac solenoid, I found that an HEI distributor wire boot fit on perfectly.
Great idea! I’ll have to use that next time.
Thanks for sharing this. BTW Your Impala looks great .Hope mine will be too soon
Thanks man! You’re welcome. You’ll get there, keep after it!
Ive got a issue with my 95 9C1 acting like torque converter lock up is kicking in and out at 50-55mph or whenever it shifts to 4th gear. The problem started when i drove 2800miles round trip to Florida and back and really got worse leaving Florida and i was told and read the symptoms of a failed optispark and everything ive read i had going on. Changed the opti and no change besides more power, changed the TPS and had a hell of allot more power but wouldnt shift out of first so that TPS was bad from factory so slapped the old one back in and got another one ordered hoping that solves my problem but im definitely gonna try cleaning the TB and seafoam treat the intake manifold as well as get a new IAC valve. I drive 94 miles a day to work and home so i gotta have it driving top notch til i get another daily.
Use a scanner to eliminate pcm command. If its commanded and no LU, its probably tcc solenoid or tc itself. It also sounds like you might have some other issues plaguing into the whole system. Some others things to check might be the vacuum to the opti venting properly. I would have to personally see and drive the car to help much more, but I hope that helps!
The coolant bypass is contributing to the carbon buildup. The hotter the throttle body the less the fumes will condense on the surfaces. In addition a warm throttle body keeps the throttle plates from icing up in humid cool environments. GM did not go thru the extra cost of making the throttle body heated by coolant if it was not beneficial.
i thought the point of bypass is so hot coolant isnt running thru it and allows colder air to pass thru? i havnt done it yet but was considering
@@housechillin8386 The only advantage to colder air is the desity is higher which then allows more fuel and more HP. Cold air is not good for operating in already cold environments ( it only need be 40F) for moisture to freeze in the throttle plates, not obly causing them to stick, but also reducing the flow rate of the air. The combustion engineers have several mandates , of both performance , fuel efficiency, and low emisions. Over the 6 or more decades engineers have used Early Fuel Evaporization, Heat Riser systems, to get the combustion clean as early as possible without rough running. My 68 dodge had a terrible carburator icing problem, as do many old carburated air planes. In addition engines do combustion more efficiently at higher temp, which is why thermostats are often 180F to 195F. Hot rodders are only concerned about horsepower, not efficiency, and not emissions or rough running while warming up.
Great video👍. I got a 96 ss that was reving high. Cleaned tb, iac, replaced a few hoses. After I put it back together it starts rough with low idle and stalls after 30-60 sec. I've checked everything 3 times - hoses, wires(found a broken1), iac ..
My iac was intact but slight rust on the tip. Can I screw the iac back in? To check if its jammed? Thanks
Thanks! As far as I recall, you can screw the IAC back together if it came apart or it stuck on the housing. Make sure the bore and the spring are clean and in good working order. Once you have it back together, you can use an ohm meter and check resistance on the plunger. Resistance should be 10-14 ohms. If the resistance is good on the IAC, check voltage at the connector. I’m pretty sure it should be 6.0-8.5v IIRC. Next I would be check the continuity of the ground and wires to the PCM.
On the PCM Connector C3 (clear) #1 is the light blue/white wire, IAC coil A high. #2 blue/black wire is IAC Coil A low. #5 green/black IAC coil B low. #6 green/white IAC could B high.
Good luck!
Thank you posting this video. What kind of seal/gasket did you use to fix the throttle body rubber gasket?
No problem, I’m glad you enjoyed. I used a thin layer of RTV Permatex. It’s what I had on the self.
Thank you for the info. Very much appreciated
@@dhealy3154 work for you?
@@Twostallgarage helped some. Still has a little bit of a stumble..
I changed the PCV, ICM, EGR, IAC, throttle position sensor, used Lucas and Berryman to clean injectors… looking at testing the injectors to see if I have a bad one
@@dhealy3154 good to hear. Might be time to check the wires to the injector too. I found a very brittle one I replaced before winter storage.
Run plus or premium gas will keep that throttle body clean
Owned a 95 9C1
If you're having throttle/power or idle issues check the optispark. I changed about $500 in parts and ended up selling it. Went overseas, guy calls me and says it was the optispark. Still hurt behind that 🤣
Yeah, I changed that few years back. Worked out. Stumble I had was idler air control was stuck. Runs great now.
Them 9c1s are great though. I’m looking for another one currently.
95 Caprice. Car was running good then all of the sudden it started shaking with low idle let it sit for about 3 or 4 months now it wont start it turn over but no start
Sounds like the IAC is in need of cleaning.
Any tips ?
Great video and very informative...!
by the way that's not belt squeaking, it's you belt tensioner bearing on it's way out, and when it goes out it's very violent.
it happened to me didn't take care of it, thought it's alternator,!!
Thanks! Yeah, I’ll get it changed!
Good video, where did you get the cold air intake with the impala logo from ?
Thanks! I bought that years ago on Street Trends. Sadly, they have closed.
I have a hockey puck with the one of the Impala emblems glued to it. It's been on there for years and doesn't look terrible.
Mine is running rough at the light what do u suggested I check first thank you for ur post
Start with the fuel pressure. You should be at 38-45PSI at idle, then ohm the tps sensor, can see how to do this here:
www.impalassforum.com/threads/tps-voltage-and-testing.1100793/
Ohm the IAC:
www.impalassforum.com/threads/idle-air-control-motor-how-fragile.1128553/#post-10603609
@@Twostallgarage your the man bro !!!!! Thank you !!!!
Brand new iac was good for two days ran better then stalled again lastnight
Did you do a good cleaning on the throttle body? Could have gotten carboned up again. What where you doing when it stalled?
would that solve my problem? when hitting my passing gear car stumble starts bucking,can you help me😢
Could be a number of things. I’d check fuel pressure under load, see if the IAC is cleaned and free of carbon, check for vacuum leaks, check transmission fluid, check the spark plug wires for grounding. Do the basics before firing a parts cannon.
Question of concern. Was driving 1995 Impala perfectly fine. No lights on dash. All of a sudden when accelerating the engine light comes on. The oil level low comes on then it turned off keeping the engine light on. And the AC got humid as well . I restarted the car and no lights on dash and ac came back on cold. It’s been happening each time I take it out. Last couple cruises Mind you. The ride feels a bit sluggish once the engine light comes on while driving. It clears once restating the car Anybody had these issues. Running on 80k miles. Taken care of stock 5.7
Couple things of info needed: are you having this same issue when the AC is off? Have you ever given the car any tuneups (plugs/wire/opti/coil)? Is the car garage kept or parked out? Any mods (cold air intake/exhaust)?
Knowing this info, I can start to help walk through steps I’d take.
@@Twostallgarage I haven’t ran it without the ac. And I got the car 6 months ago was running perfectly fine until now. Yes super cleaned garaged kept and maintained
No mods either all stock. Also when the Engine light and oil level low light comes on when accelerating during random drive it comes to a holt. Like I can’t go no more it stops the accerlerlation/power and ac gets humid until I restart then a couple blocks down it does it again
@@JohnDoe-jd7mf could be a number of things. The basics I’d look at would be the AC compressor is not on the verge of locking up or the AC system is under charged or over charged with Freon. Even if the AC blows cold for 20-30 mins, it could be overcharged and freezing up the heater core.
Next, check that opti. They are known for hairline cracks and letting in moisture, causing the spark to go nuts inside the cap and arc to different spots.
Next I would look for any wires that might be broken or loose on the compressor circuit. This might be causing the pcm to cause a limp mode scenario and flash the oil light, or the oil light it’s own issue.
I’d look over the oil pressure switch (rear drivers side of the LT-1, under the EGR) the sensor could have a loose wire or gummed with oil or just is failing. Simple test with the ohm meter can determine this. This would be a good time to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed as well or look into a 9C1 pressure switch, which will give more accurate gauge movement on the stock cluster.
If all these check out, next oil change crack open the filter and look for glitter and make sure the engines not hurt and truly low on oil.
There are a lot more things I’d personally check over and clean up (basic maintenance like tune up and the IAC cleaning) while I’m in it this far, but hope it gives you a starting point.
@@Twostallgarage Preciate it response I really appreciate it. I’ll look into the grounds and also the sensor I’ll start there, is there a way to tell if the Opti is failing? And if so is the opti change a pain in the ass or what are the steps to changing it?
I’m having a problem with my 95 impala ss it was running fine until I took the Throttlebody off n cleaned it now it idles high n check engine light is now on I change the idle control sensor and the throttle position sensor and nothing still idle high like I said it was fine before I took the Throttlebody off
Did you check and make sure the plunger isn’t stuck on the IAC? I ended up having to replace mine and clean the bore out. Also, might want to check the throttle position sensor out with the lamp on and make sure none of those wires are damaged
@@Twostallgarage the throttle position sensor wire can see bear wire can that be a problem n the other sensor gos up n down I plugged it to the wire n can see it go up n down so that means it’s good rite
@@Raymondcarrillo602 should be ok, but id test it with a multi meter
@@Twostallgarage thats what I did it’s good and last night I don’t know what I did but got it too idle a lil bit lower now Stead of high idle I don’t know if I need to drive it a lil more or dose the sensor need to be re set
Could that aftermarket air intake/air cleaner have anything to do with all the carbon buildup. I've got a 95 Roadmaster with the same engine, still has original home plate and stock air cleaner, never checked the inside of the intake for carbon buildup though.
Has to do with the PCV venting right into the intake. Gums it up.
That wat was my problem my crankcase breather hose wasn’t all the way in n when I put it all the way in n stuff no more stalling
@@bakerbadasswhere is that located
@@ramonrincon8078 mines was on the left side passenger side it’s the lil piece that goes into the crankcase which is ur valve cover
@@bakerbadass ok thanks hopefully it fixes it mine drops to 300 rpm when put in reverse then goes to 450 sometimes if it goes under 300 it shuts off
Wish I had seen this video BEFORE going the expensive way, which resolved NOTHING !
What did you go after first?
@@Twostallgarage Opti , plugs, wires, and IAC Valve . Runs the same as if I never touched it .
I’m currently doing this now and mine was just as dirty if not dirtier
Glad you’re taken care of it..!
just did the paper clip trick in my c4 95 port and there were 2 codes... C34 and H34... is this the Optispark?
I believe this is a low voltage code at the mass airflow sensor.
@@Twostallgarage I think it's Map Sensor
for what ever reason the White Wire Terminal Pin came out and wasn't making a connection to the Map Sensor
Where did you get the Cap for the throttle body intake?
Street trends when they still had an online store
Also when you changed your gears where you ever able to get your abs light off ?
Negative. I didn’t change the reluctor gear to 3:83
@@Twostallgarage so once you change the reluctor gear to Mach what the gear ratios are it will adjust and not come on ?
? Why when i crank its no problem idle high, put in drive it’s like it want to take off by itself tires screeching wail foot on breaks, long time to shift an jerking every shift
I had this issue on my 1996. Turned out to be the throttle position sensor. You can pull it off and check the resistance to see if it needs to be replaced. Rockauto sells these for $15 bucks or $32 for the Delphi.
I put the first one back on an it’s still running crazy
@@datraw305 did you check the harness and connector for corrosion or a broken wire and do you have any check engine lights on?
Q: where do that hose go to with the blue elbow tip??
Side of you’re intake elbow, to the opti spark, then to the side of the intake. Keeps a vacuum on the opti to vent the spark and prevent corrosion and condensation.
My 96 jerks in second gear but rides smooth afterwards ,I need help
Stock? How’s the idle? Any check engine lights?
How did you get to the benk 1 position 1sensor plug? do you have to squeeze it somehow to get it unlplugged
I installed full exhaust and new o2 sensors, when I installed the system
Thanks Buddy, I may end up doing the same. @@Twostallgarage
I have a 95 impala SS it won’t stay running unless I put my foot on the gas. Do you have any idea? I change the fuel pump The fuel filter, brand new
Is fuel pressure at the schrader valve
About 38 psi when you turn the ignition on?
Mines too! I was told by a mechanic that my fuel and oil pressure was good they can't seem to find what the issue is 😢@@Twostallgarage
@@alienfiend9793 check the IAC.
Nice ride!!! Where did you find that billet intake plug?
Thanks! I purchased that years ago on Street Trends. Unfortunately, they have closed.
@@Twostallgarage man I miss street trends. Thanks for vid ! Nice car
@@pfunk781 thanks! Yeah, they had some awesome parts for these cars.
Cleaning GENTILE parts! 😅
Great vid, do you still have your LT1? If so, check out my TB coolant bypass vid, we show how to keep the TB even cooler for a few extra ponies 🐴🐎.... Also, did you change your pcv?
Thanks, I’ll check it out! I still have it. I removed the PCV and added a catch can last year. Works well.
I know coolant bypass nosle is blocked of on throttle body on front and side but what is the other nosle that’s blocked off is that pic and why
The theory is you plum the hose from the over flow tank into the steel tube on the passenger side from its stock location, it won’t circulate coolant around the intake and give lower intake temps which provide more HP.. “allegedly” I just added a vacuum cap to mine to make it look cleaner in the engine bay. It’s just a show item and not needed.
@@Twostallgarage yeah I know but you had the top port and the bottom port blocked off on the side of throttle body I know the bottom hose is for the coolant bypass but the top port not sure if that’s pcvv but it’s blocked off
@@adrianbinger8397 I gotcha. Yeah, the other one was just the pvc port for the throttle body. I have a breather filter on the valve cover.
@@Twostallgarage ok cool got one more question havin a low idle stall issue like you where having changed coolant temp sensor and cleaning iac and cleaned throttle body was still running low and stalling today going to change throttle body seals and now change the iac valve see what happens any other tips?
@@adrianbinger8397 make sure the IAC is giving you a proper reading when testing it with an ohm meter, grounds are good/have proper continuity on each wire, and the plunger isn’t stuck like mine was.
What could the problem be with a lt1 ina 96 impala not going over 40?
You might have a dead spot on the TPS, issue with the abs system, or could be the transmission is beginning to fail.
Convertors
If I have a bad iac will it stumble at hwy speeds ?? I changed the tps i shouldmof did it while I was n there lol
Very well could.
@@Twostallgaragethanks bro u have helped me get my 94 better watching ur vids
Do I have to remove the throttle body to put tps on ???
No, but the torx screws are a pain to line up with it on.
🔥💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
My 95 ss when I put my car In reverse it shuts off/stalls out any idea what the cause is or we’re to start. It only happens in reverse
Any slipping on the trans? Torque converter might be locked up.
@@Twostallgarage no slipping. Thanks for the reply
@@pickingpanda1134did you ever find out the problem having exact same problem whenever you get a chance lmk thanks
Hi, I have ? My 95 impala lt1 start right up when cold. idle very smooth in.park. The problem I'm having when I try accelerate from a take off it has no low end power no back fire..It Bogs up to be speed...you have any idea what could that be? Ps I change wires optic spark cap
I’d start with the basics, but you probably have the spark plug wires out of whack. I’d revisit the firing order. I did this on mine and turned out I crossed two at the opti. Ran fine at idle, but back fired and bogged under load.
What headers and exhaust you running sounds good ?
Thanks, running Hooker headers and their aero chamber exhaust and mufflers.
@@Twostallgarage where did you buy the exhaust if you don’t mind me asking
@@josegalvan3152 street trends. They are not in business anymore.
@@Twostallgarageholyshit street trends is done ?? I used to get parts for my caprice😢
@@tkong35 yes, unfortunately they are. Last seen 2013/2014
My 95 will start and run about 5 seconds and shut off. After that it will start and immediately die. Anybody got some help on this.
Common thing of 5 second run I’d guess it’s your pass key fault. Even if you don’t have the light illuminated, it could cause issues.
What size hose you used?
For what, the vacuum port?
@@Twostallgarage yes my vacuum line is fine it’s the connector elbow that was dry rotten
@@pickingpanda1134 I used assorted pack of vacuum caps from the help section from the parts store. One common plug you could use is an old spark plug boot and trim to fit.
Ok hopefully someone can help me? I have thr problem of my car running for about an hour maybe 2 and thr whole car acceleration goes out and thr car stalls and shuts off. Give it a few mins the mf cranks back up but would eventually shut off. I haven't had it shut off in a min cause I haven't drove it a long distance. Has anyone had this problem? Also while in gear if it's driven for a long period once I put it in park and press the gas it has a sound as if there is something blocking the air flow. If I press the gas hard it'll flow thru. Anyone had this one also. I tried to explain best I could
What kind of car/motor/mods? Could be a number of things.
@@Twostallgarage 1996 impala. Stock LT1
@@thegreatest2547 start with checking first plate and all the intake from the air filter to the throttle body. Very simple to pull apart and inspect. Look for mouse houses and other debris that could block air flow. Next, check fuel pressure with a gauge. Schrader valve and fuel pressure gauge will can help you in this. (Watch my fuel pump video for more inside how too).
This will tell you if you have weak fuel pump or blockage in the lines, or maybe the fuel filter needs to be changed. You should have 35-45lbs of fuel pressure, key in and not running.
Next check the spark. Things might be getting hot (after your two hour run time) and moving. Test the ignition coil and check grounds. Then inspect plugs/wires. Also, check the vacuum tube from the intake elbow to the opti spark. Should have a good vacuum when the engines running to remove the oxidation from spark in the opti.
Do you have any check engine lights on?
The only check engine light I have on is a secondary air injection failure AKA smog pump nothing major
@@thegreatest2547 this could result then in too much fuel being put in and fouling plugs. Sounds like you need air pump delete/tune up/pcm flashed to delete the pump.
Fuel pressure regulator
What about it? My IAC was the issue. Did you have the same issues with the engine and it ended up being the regulator?
@Chris Kowalewski I'm going through it right now I changed the fuel pressure reg now replacing the crankcase valve and hoses
Vacuum leak
IAC was my issue.
Chevy o2 sensor
All new! IAC was my issue.
What headers are you using
Hooker
Did you have to do any modifications to get them too fit
@@87FOXI didn’t. Direct fit. Got them from Street Trends 12 years ago.
Would happen to know if they are 2285HKR because these they only ones I see