Fantastic work! When my filament turns up I'm going to try and print some with my 0.15mm nozzle and 20 micron layer height. That should make for a super detailed picture, although they will be *long* prints!
Would you please make a video showing how to stack the layers in fusion or any other cad program or in Bambu slicer if not needed to use a cad program before printing. Thank you so much !!
After creating the stl files in lithophane maker you need to select all of them and drop them into bambu slicer at the same time. You should then get a pop up box asking if you want to load files as a single object with multiple parts, select yes. The stl files should now be aligned and you can change the color of each stl file under the objects button.
While it is true that Prusa bought Printed Solid, Printed Solid still maintains their Jesse filament so there is no change from the video. Unfortunately that does mean it is only available in the US via the printed solid website.
@@PatternToPrint my bad. I never caught the name of the filament in the video I watched of yours. Just went to to the Printed solid site and was redirected to Pursa. But did see the filament you just mentioned. Jeez thanks for the VERY prompt reply. Watching more of your videos now. I am New to this and just got an x1 carbon. Very intrigued by the lithophane process. I am in Vietnam and it is not available here. Again thanks so much.
Hi Jason, not sure If you see comments on this video since it from 2 years ago. at 9:58 You state you make the lithophane layers as 0.05. 1) Is that the Lithophane resolution in Lithophanemaker? or that setting something else? 2) Does this imply the Color layers and Lithophane have different layer? [aside from the 1st layer]
The setting for lithophane maker for the color layers I have at 0.08. The 0.05 is the slicer setting for the white lithophane top to get good resolution. The setting for the lithophane resolution in the maker defaults to 0.25, which works well for a 0.4 nozzle. You will get better results if you drop the 0.25 number a bit is you have a smaller nozzle. It will dramatically increase the file size though.
@@PatternToPrint so that is two seperate settings. The lithophane layers isn't defined in lithophanemaker unlike the colors layer or first layer and is slicer only setting. Correct? That said, how does one have different layer height for color layer and lithophane layers? Is that slicer specric setting, which is not currently in Bambu Studios? Regarding lithophane resolution Is there any point in decreasing the number [aside from file size]? Is the nozzle size limiting factor so best to keep it at 0.25? Aka 0.1 or 0.05 is no different since limited by nozzle size?
@@LinhNguyen-qg3oj I haven't done one of these yet on the Bambu so I'm not sure how to do this in that slicer. In simplify 3D I'm able to change the layer thickness based on height, so I can from z height 0-0.48 print 0.08 layers and z>0.48 print at 0.05. How to do that in Bambu slicer I haven't investigated. On the lithophane resolution I don't know the optimum level for each nozzle size, for my 0.25 nozzle prints I set it all the way down to 0.06 (any lower timed out the server). The resulting files were like 500mb. I don't know if I repeated the same print at 0.15 if there would be a noticeable difference.
That would depend on how the slicer handles it. The main thing is that you would need the printer to pause after it finished each color on each layer so you could change the filament to the next one. Each slicer would handle this differently so I can't give a specific answer.
@unlock-er the name of each created stl tells you which colour it is, so in the object menu of the slicer you can select each one and set the colour to match.
Hi! I really love your video but have one issue. Printed solid filaments are available onpy in US and Canada. Could you recomend some filamants available in eu?
I unfortunately don't know of good filaments for this in the EU. When I started working on this technique I used filaments that were designed for printers that mixed colors in the hot end, but that isn't much of a market theses days.
A true master of his craft. Can you teach me how to fold up that blue screen? I have one and it's never been properly put away because I can never figure out how!
You mention doing this with a single extruder by making 16 filament swaps. Any idea where I can find a guide on this? I tried doing it on my mk3s (slicing in Cura) by triggering a filament change each layer, but this ended up printing colors where it should only be white. I'm guessing I'm messing up a setting somewhere...
I don't have a guide on it since I haven't done it myself that way, I just know it could be possible (though complicated). I think in the end you would need to create multiple gcode files, one for each color/layer. So for the first layer with color you would put in the cyan filament with the layer 1 cyan gcode, then switch to magenta and run the layer 1 magenta gcode and so on. Admittedly not simple.
has anyone tried a clear filament for the first layer instead of white? my MMU only does 4 materials so i'd have to swap the clear for white after the first layer is done, but i thought that might reduce the amount of light needed to get it to show nicely
@@PatternToPrint it worked but white still seems to look more clear at really thin layer heights, for anyone else in the future wondering this. i also tried printing the color layers flat, then sliced and printed the lithophane part vertically for better resolution, but at first glance it doesn't seem to work well. i haven't tested it with a proper light box though, so maybe with adequate lights it'll look ok. i might also need to use clear epoxy and my vacuum chamber or something to get better light transmission. it seems the color and white not being physically melted into each other really breaks up the light and not much makes it all the way out. i didn't bother trying printing all of it vertical, as obviously it would result in a billion color changes and take a century to print
![[Lithophane tips] 10 Things I Wish I Knew Before Making Lithophane - 3D Printing](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3teKRhzTORY/mqdefault.jpg)
Fantastic. You explained it well.
CHEP!!!
It would be awesome to see a video how to do this on an Ender 3 step by step think this is amazing.
get the transparent PETG for color mask. Also true CMY filaments are available in the market. That picture will be more saturated.
Fantastic work! When my filament turns up I'm going to try and print some with my 0.15mm nozzle and 20 micron layer height. That should make for a super detailed picture, although they will be *long* prints!
Incredible Jason!!!!
Jason don't forget to join forces with Vicky Somma! Because with some geometry you can now LITERALLY PRINT stained glass panels!
Your are the man! Creative stuff 🤙
Hi, so I have to print four times in different color and then glue them? I have Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
Thank you
You would need to use an AMS to print it all at once, not possible to print colors separately and glue them together.
Would you please make a video showing how to stack the layers in fusion or any other cad program or in Bambu slicer if not needed to use a cad program before printing. Thank you so much !!
After creating the stl files in lithophane maker you need to select all of them and drop them into bambu slicer at the same time. You should then get a pop up box asking if you want to load files as a single object with multiple parts, select yes. The stl files should now be aligned and you can change the color of each stl file under the objects button.
Awesome video
How can I get that pattern?
Printed solid 3d was bought out by Prusa……what is the name of the filament your recommending to use from them?
While it is true that Prusa bought Printed Solid, Printed Solid still maintains their Jesse filament so there is no change from the video. Unfortunately that does mean it is only available in the US via the printed solid website.
@@PatternToPrint my bad. I never caught the name of the filament in the video I watched of yours. Just went to to the Printed solid site and was redirected to Pursa. But did see the filament you just mentioned. Jeez thanks for the VERY prompt reply. Watching more of your videos now. I am New to this and just got an x1 carbon. Very intrigued by the lithophane process. I am in Vietnam and it is not available here. Again thanks so much.
Hi Jason, not sure If you see comments on this video since it from 2 years ago. at 9:58 You state you make the lithophane layers as 0.05.
1) Is that the Lithophane resolution in Lithophanemaker? or that setting something else?
2) Does this imply the Color layers and Lithophane have different layer? [aside from the 1st layer]
The setting for lithophane maker for the color layers I have at 0.08. The 0.05 is the slicer setting for the white lithophane top to get good resolution. The setting for the lithophane resolution in the maker defaults to 0.25, which works well for a 0.4 nozzle. You will get better results if you drop the 0.25 number a bit is you have a smaller nozzle. It will dramatically increase the file size though.
@@PatternToPrint so that is two seperate settings.
The lithophane layers isn't defined in lithophanemaker unlike the colors layer or first layer and is slicer only setting. Correct?
That said, how does one have different layer height for color layer and lithophane layers? Is that slicer specric setting, which is not currently in Bambu Studios?
Regarding lithophane resolution
Is there any point in decreasing the number [aside from file size]? Is the nozzle size limiting factor so best to keep it at 0.25? Aka 0.1 or 0.05 is no different since limited by nozzle size?
@@LinhNguyen-qg3oj I haven't done one of these yet on the Bambu so I'm not sure how to do this in that slicer. In simplify 3D I'm able to change the layer thickness based on height, so I can from z height 0-0.48 print 0.08 layers and z>0.48 print at 0.05. How to do that in Bambu slicer I haven't investigated. On the lithophane resolution I don't know the optimum level for each nozzle size, for my 0.25 nozzle prints I set it all the way down to 0.06 (any lower timed out the server). The resulting files were like 500mb. I don't know if I repeated the same print at 0.15 if there would be a noticeable difference.
@@PatternToPrint Thanks for all your responses. Doesn't seem like there an option anyways since 0.08 is smallest layer high for 0.4 nozzle.
What would be the order of colour for filament changes for non MMU printer please? Thanks
That would depend on how the slicer handles it. The main thing is that you would need the printer to pause after it finished each color on each layer so you could change the filament to the next one. Each slicer would handle this differently so I can't give a specific answer.
@@PatternToPrint Sure, that part works for me, the issue is for me not knowing which color filament to change it to.
@unlock-er the name of each created stl tells you which colour it is, so in the object menu of the slicer you can select each one and set the colour to match.
Hi! I really love your video but have one issue. Printed solid filaments are available onpy in US and Canada. Could you recomend some filamants available in eu?
I unfortunately don't know of good filaments for this in the EU. When I started working on this technique I used filaments that were designed for printers that mixed colors in the hot end, but that isn't much of a market theses days.
What do you do with these prints? What's the point of them? It's just printed plastic
Why have I never seen this and why aren't there more people doing this?
A true master of his craft. Can you teach me how to fold up that blue screen? I have one and it's never been properly put away because I can never figure out how!
The next time I put it away will be the first time I put it away :) I don't know either.
Detailed. Nice
Great video and prints! I've been debating getting a Palette 2 for awhile. Love the shirt too (from the U.P.)
You mention doing this with a single extruder by making 16 filament swaps. Any idea where I can find a guide on this? I tried doing it on my mk3s (slicing in Cura) by triggering a filament change each layer, but this ended up printing colors where it should only be white. I'm guessing I'm messing up a setting somewhere...
I don't have a guide on it since I haven't done it myself that way, I just know it could be possible (though complicated). I think in the end you would need to create multiple gcode files, one for each color/layer. So for the first layer with color you would put in the cyan filament with the layer 1 cyan gcode, then switch to magenta and run the layer 1 magenta gcode and so on. Admittedly not simple.
@@PatternToPrint Ahhh OK. I thought it would just be a matter of changing filament each layer, but it's not looking like that's all there is to it.
@@dungeonsdragonsderrick8029 CNC kitchen talks about one way it could be done manually in his newest video. th-cam.com/video/ULK1XiMbelU/w-d-xo.html
Genious!
Excellent video!! Very well explained!
has anyone tried a clear filament for the first layer instead of white? my MMU only does 4 materials so i'd have to swap the clear for white after the first layer is done, but i thought that might reduce the amount of light needed to get it to show nicely
I have not tried that but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
@@PatternToPrint it worked but white still seems to look more clear at really thin layer heights, for anyone else in the future wondering this. i also tried printing the color layers flat, then sliced and printed the lithophane part vertically for better resolution, but at first glance it doesn't seem to work well. i haven't tested it with a proper light box though, so maybe with adequate lights it'll look ok. i might also need to use clear epoxy and my vacuum chamber or something to get better light transmission. it seems the color and white not being physically melted into each other really breaks up the light and not much makes it all the way out. i didn't bother trying printing all of it vertical, as obviously it would result in a billion color changes and take a century to print
Awesome video, thanks! 💖
great video, love it!
Super good i Lieke it👍🤣👍
💕🔥👍