Did this today and thanks for the advice in your video. A couple of things I found. Both back wheels have to be off the ground at the same time for the wheel hubs to turn. Also, I found that I had to flick the adjusting wheel towards the front of the vehicle in order to tighten the brakes on both sides. Thanks again.
Thanks, the toothed adjuster wheel can be inserted either way up, so could have possibly been fitted upside-down during a previous brake shoe change. Wheels should rotate independently with each off the ground in neutral but it will be more difficult to turn as the prop and transfer box will also spin.
There’s an adjustment nut under the centre counsel at the back in the rear passenger section. Just lift off the plastic tray and tighten othe nut with the handbrake off. You’ll see two cables running to the rear and one towards the handbrake.
I would personally have backed the handbrake main adjuster off completely before adjusting the shoes individually, then readjusted the lever travel with the main adjuster. Alternatively, leaving the h/brake lever on just one click before adjusting the shoes up guarantees no over adjustment. Works fine for me👍🏻
WARNING. Not always a quick fix Thanks for video. I went at it. The wheel that i was trying to rotate with the screwdriver popped off inside the hub. Now its rattling around and jamming if i rotate the hub. I need to get a mechanic friend to help me with it now. Thanks for informative video.
Thanks for letting us know. I’ve not had this happen, but I can see how it could occur as the adjuster is just floating between the shoes. You should able to remove the disc to retrieve it, as the shoes will retract under the springs. The disc locating screw may be hard to remove though if you can no longer apply the handbrake to lock the wheel.
I always use axle stands and put the spare wheel underneath too. There is a stand under there somewhere but may not be visible in the video. You don’t need to lecture me on health & safety!
Yes, as viewed from above. Flick the teeth to the left to expand the adjuster (more brakes) or to the right to reduce it (less brakes). This is the same on each side. The adjuster is on the rearward side of each back plate, so hole at 3 o’clock on left (UK passenger side) and 9 o’clock on right (UK drivers side).
It depends how much the hand brake is used. I would check them every 30-50k miles. Mine is now on 145k but still on the original shoes. I will renew them this year.
Did this today and thanks for the advice in your video. A couple of things I found. Both back wheels have to be off the ground at the same time for the wheel hubs to turn. Also, I found that I had to flick the adjusting wheel towards the front of the vehicle in order to tighten the brakes on both sides. Thanks again.
Thanks, the toothed adjuster wheel can be inserted either way up, so could have possibly been fitted upside-down during a previous brake shoe change. Wheels should rotate independently with each off the ground in neutral but it will be more difficult to turn as the prop and transfer box will also spin.
Simple video to make life easy. 20 minutes and job done. Thanks.
Thank you. This worked for me and made the car hold fine on hills! Only took about 1 hour total for both sides.
There’s an adjustment nut under the centre counsel at the back in the rear passenger section. Just lift off the plastic tray and tighten othe nut with the handbrake off. You’ll see two cables running to the rear and one towards the handbrake.
Yep, but that should only be used once each wheel has been adjusted independently.
I would personally have backed the handbrake main adjuster off completely before adjusting the shoes individually, then readjusted the lever travel with the main adjuster. Alternatively, leaving the h/brake lever on just one click before adjusting the shoes up guarantees no over adjustment. Works fine for me👍🏻
WARNING. Not always a quick fix
Thanks for video. I went at it. The wheel that i was trying to rotate with the screwdriver popped off inside the hub. Now its rattling around and jamming if i rotate the hub. I need to get a mechanic friend to help me with it now.
Thanks for informative video.
Thanks for letting us know. I’ve not had this happen, but I can see how it could occur as the adjuster is just floating between the shoes. You should able to remove the disc to retrieve it, as the shoes will retract under the springs. The disc locating screw may be hard to remove though if you can no longer apply the handbrake to lock the wheel.
Thanks really helpful
Helpful vid thanks for making it
Very helpful. Thanks.
under no circumstances work on a vehicle without an axle stand , how that jack is positioned its ready to chop your legs off when it falls
I always use axle stands and put the spare wheel underneath too. There is a stand under there somewhere but may not be visible in the video. You don’t need to lecture me on health & safety!
Hi. So anti clockwise to tighten and clock wise to slacking off ??.
Yes, as viewed from above. Flick the teeth to the left to expand the adjuster (more brakes) or to the right to reduce it (less brakes). This is the same on each side. The adjuster is on the rearward side of each back plate, so hole at 3 o’clock on left (UK passenger side) and 9 o’clock on right (UK drivers side).
How often the shoes (for the hand break) should be replaced ?
It depends how much the hand brake is used. I would check them every 30-50k miles. Mine is now on 145k but still on the original shoes. I will renew them this year.
Have you got the handbrake "On or Off" while your doing this ?
Off
Yes. hand brake is off while adusting