A good way to reduce fluid loss is to put some cling film over the res and screw the filler cap down. It stops air getting in at the top and prevents fluid coming out at the bottom. You should do this whenever you expose your brakes to atmosphere. Just make sure you remove the film when you are done otherwise your brakes aren't going to work properly.
Great video very helpful just to add , I just changed both ABS pressure sensors rather than get oem at £150 a piece I was recommended some off of eBay £20 each, didn’t undo any of the other pipes I rested the new one close to the one coming out, unscrewed the old one and quickly put the new one back in, done this with both , so far the brakes feel fine (no bleeding done) and the dash lights have gone out no diagnostics used …
I’ve been having this issue a few days. Thought my gearbox was failing again. Seeing this gives me hope it’s just a sensor again. Out with INPA this afternoon I think
Hi, If you remove the brake lines above the sensors will you need to do a full bleed on the system and will you need a diagnostic's to bleed the system has these two lines go directly into the ABS ?
I didn’t have to plug the car in to bleed the ABS pump after replacement but was so long ago now I would have to watch the video myself to watch how I completed the swap lol
Hello mate, thanks for the vid. So I think on the scan tool the sensor readings come up as circuit 1, & 2. So should circuit 1 be the sensor closer to the bulkhead or the one further forward? thanks
So long ago now I can’t recall ☹️ Un-plug one of the sensors and run diagnostic - the fault will show as sensor not present then you know 👍 You can also switch the plugs around also which adds to the confusion if some one has removed them before
As far as I know the rear near side speed sensor is the one that will throw the speedo offline if it fails. (Might be the offside one but I'm positive it is definitely one of the rears). These bloody things are a pain in the arse though, even after replacing the error can still sometimes be there as any corrosion or gunk buildup on the abs reluctor ring can replicate the same fault. Ask me how I know! ;) lol
As the sensors can be plugged in either one they can vary if some one has un-plugged one before. The solution is to un-plug one sensor, turn on the ignition and read the fault code again as it will bring up a fault for sensor 1 or 2 disconnected then you know for sure 👍
I have the trifecta still have to change one DSC sensor however I did find that out that the rear brake light wires that come through the trunk split After Time I just had to replace two of them and got rid of like 4 codes just worth it to check
I didn’t disconnect the battery for the ABS sensor just make sure the ignition is completely off. Obviously if you wanted to disconnect the negative that would be the safest way to avoid any potential issues.
So I know you changed the front DSC sensor, but do you think it's possible to get the 27mm on the rear DSC sensor? I have tested, and diagnosed that my rear one (sensor #1 according to INPA) is the one that has failed, and I have a replacement on hand.
I have changed a rear one, from memory you need to un-screw one of the lines, it’s not a massive job just skin removal trying to get into the gaps is a pain
Also un-plug sensor one and check again as the sensors and cables can be swapped so if some one has played with the loom they maybe switched round (right pain if you remove the wrong one)
I used the cheapest 27mm ratchet ring spanner from china for the rear. I had just one click to work with. I didn't remove anything else, although I tried and failed. It was impossible to get the right torque on the new sensor. So I tightened, drove, checked for weeps with paper towel and tightened some more.
BMW 34521164458 Ate 55CP09-0x I got a chinese 43CP5-x that worked. The chinese one was same silver colour like in the video. The original BMW/Ate one was brassy/coppery coloured. The corrosion performance of the different metals could be different. But I don't suppose it matters on old cars.
Not wishing to ruin a good post,l managed to find a pair of wheel speed sensors on E-Bay . OEM £26.00. ABS SENSOR £16.50,,though did see one after buying for £12.99. ??
The non-genuine ones including the ones that claim to be genuine are often fake replicas looking on the M3 forums for under £20 which fail again shortly, for the extra £15/20 for a genuine Bosch Wheel speed sensor I was happy to pay the extra after the trouble it caused my SMG when it failed on a drive as it acted very strange and ruined a good breakfast drive. The ABS pressure sensor I went Genuine but then that did fail it only shuts down the traction control which I switch off when I get in the car anyway, just my ocd can’t hack dash light faults 🙈
A good way to reduce fluid loss is to put some cling film over the res and screw the filler cap down. It stops air getting in at the top and prevents fluid coming out at the bottom. You should do this whenever you expose your brakes to atmosphere. Just make sure you remove the film when you are done otherwise your brakes aren't going to work properly.
Great video very helpful just to add , I just changed both ABS pressure sensors rather than get oem at £150 a piece I was recommended some off of eBay £20 each, didn’t undo any of the other pipes I rested the new one close to the one coming out, unscrewed the old one and quickly put the new one back in, done this with both , so far the brakes feel fine (no bleeding done) and the dash lights have gone out no diagnostics used …
Glad it helped 👍
I stuck with OEM as didn’t fancy risking it with a pattern and having to change again 😅
I’ve been having this issue a few days. Thought my gearbox was failing again. Seeing this gives me hope it’s just a sensor again. Out with INPA this afternoon I think
Crazy how much carnage one of these little sensors causes when they fail 😅
Great video. Though I wish you had gone into more detail on the pressure sensor. Thanks!
Always difficult to film & carry out the job on your own, later videos have got much better (at least I think so lol)
Hi, If you remove the brake lines above the sensors will you need to do a full bleed on the system and will you need a diagnostic's to bleed the system has these two lines go directly into the ABS ?
I didn’t have to plug the car in to bleed the ABS pump after replacement but was so long ago now I would have to watch the video myself to watch how I completed the swap lol
Hello mate, thanks for the vid. So I think on the scan tool the sensor readings come up as circuit 1, & 2. So should circuit 1 be the sensor closer to the bulkhead or the one further forward? thanks
So long ago now I can’t recall ☹️
Un-plug one of the sensors and run diagnostic - the fault will show as sensor not present then you know 👍
You can also switch the plugs around also which adds to the confusion if some one has removed them before
@@stoneautomotive this is why he was asking you which was sensor 1 since someone could have switched them.
As far as I know the rear near side speed sensor is the one that will throw the speedo offline if it fails. (Might be the offside one but I'm positive it is definitely one of the rears). These bloody things are a pain in the arse though, even after replacing the error can still sometimes be there as any corrosion or gunk buildup on the abs reluctor ring can replicate the same fault. Ask me how I know! ;) lol
Thanks, very straightforward.
Glad to hear 👍
Do you know which of the dcs pressure sensors are #1 and #2? Today I got the 5E21 code pressure sensor 2, but I don’t know which one of them that is?
As the sensors can be plugged in either one they can vary if some one has un-plugged one before.
The solution is to un-plug one sensor, turn on the ignition and read the fault code again as it will bring up a fault for sensor 1 or 2 disconnected then you know for sure 👍
just had the pressure sensor go on mine, caused the dsc and handbrake amber light to stay on all the time
Changing this senser made it go away?
@@mylespeek5055 yep that was the issue
I have the trifecta still have to change one DSC sensor however I did find that out that the rear brake light wires that come through the trunk split After Time I just had to replace two of them and got rid of like 4 codes just worth it to check
Do you need to undo the battery terminal whilst doing this not thinking about any kind of shock I’m thinking does it do anything to any software
I didn’t disconnect the battery for the ABS sensor just make sure the ignition is completely off. Obviously if you wanted to disconnect the negative that would be the safest way to avoid any potential issues.
Sound how many sensors got to each back wheel I noticed two in the plastic box oh and nice m3 that mine is a convertible 👍
Can you tell me what age is your BMW, and it is diesel or gasoline?
Year : 2003 - Engine : 3.2 litre straight six - Petrol/ gasoline (standard M3 engine)
So I know you changed the front DSC sensor, but do you think it's possible to get the 27mm on the rear DSC sensor? I have tested, and diagnosed that my rear one (sensor #1 according to INPA) is the one that has failed, and I have a replacement on hand.
I have changed a rear one, from memory you need to un-screw one of the lines, it’s not a massive job just skin removal trying to get into the gaps is a pain
Also un-plug sensor one and check again as the sensors and cables can be swapped so if some one has played with the loom they maybe switched round (right pain if you remove the wrong one)
Yeah that's what I did to check. Does the hard line leak when you remove it?
I used the cheapest 27mm ratchet ring spanner from china for the rear. I had just one click to work with. I didn't remove anything else, although I tried and failed. It was impossible to get the right torque on the new sensor. So I tightened, drove, checked for weeps with paper towel and tightened some more.
Wish switching the pressure sensors was this easy on the US version!!!
I assume the access is poor on the left hand drive cars?
what part number was that presure sensor?
Unfortunately it was some time ago now so can’t recall, it was listed under e46 M3 on the Bosch web site (still going strong now)
BMW 34521164458
Ate 55CP09-0x
I got a chinese 43CP5-x that worked. The chinese one was same silver colour like in the video. The original BMW/Ate one was brassy/coppery coloured. The corrosion performance of the different metals could be different. But I don't suppose it matters on old cars.
FunGames, would you sen me link? 🙏😊
@@weni83 Just search those part numbers on aliexpress and you will find plenty.
Changed front and back wheel speed sensors same lights on any ideas ?
If you have used cheap/Ebay sensors that will cause nothing but headache, genuine BMW or Bosch units
Might change the ABS Sensor under bonnet or maybe both of them.The remark about E-Bay USED Sensors is unwarranted because you can buy OEM NEW.
steering angle sensor. either calibrate or replace.
Not wishing to ruin a good post,l managed to find a pair of wheel speed sensors on E-Bay . OEM £26.00. ABS SENSOR £16.50,,though did see one after buying for £12.99. ??
The non-genuine ones including the ones that claim to be genuine are often fake replicas looking on the M3 forums for under £20 which fail again shortly, for the extra £15/20 for a genuine Bosch Wheel speed sensor I was happy to pay the extra after the trouble it caused my SMG when it failed on a drive as it acted very strange and ruined a good breakfast drive. The ABS pressure sensor I went Genuine but then that did fail it only shuts down the traction control which I switch off when I get in the car anyway, just my ocd can’t hack dash light faults 🙈
My xi only have one where is the other one
No idea I’m afraid, I only own an e46 M3
Nice videos!
Thank you 😊
Wow