I’ve learned more about these D2 cats than I have ever imagined! I’m hooked and can’t wait to see this old girl move on her own. Awesome job man! Thank you!
Your D2 build vids are awsome, I very much look forward to the first start- I´d bet 20$ on it lighting up in the first three crankshaft rotations after You give it fuel while cranking and stay running. You are putting it together with so much care and detail- I don´t see no reason why it shouldn´t pop up that instant You switch on fuel. Man, I really crave this first start. The way You´re taking us along for the ride is nicely entertaining, I just watched this for dinner, please take care, don´t let the Kung Flu get You...
I love your videos and you’re style. I may never have one of those machines, but your work ethic and technique translates to many other jobs. This should be standard for young folks to learn from. Thank you for posting.
Waiting for the moment of starting the D engine is more exciting than Christmas Eve, any chance of getting Senior to dress up like "Santa", and pull the starting lever?
I'm wide awake, it's morning here out in rural Cambodia. I'm stuck until this virus thing allows free travel again, so your videos keep me from going insane, lol. Great effort putting this together 👍, l enjoy every second of it. You've even taught this 71 year old to pay attention to detail when I'm repairing my car and bikes....
I have heard about your rebuilds for a while now. Finally had time to click on a link and watch one... then two, three, four....! Your presentation manner is excellent. Have a great day!
I can't wait to see the starting motor being rebuilt. I wish I could restore a tractor or crawler but I don't have the funds or the means to do so. That is why I love this channel. To see it all tacken apart, cleaned and reassembled is great. Keep up the good work.
Would not miss that episode. Every thing is looking good. I still say this engine will be just as good or better. That's my opinion. Never get tired of watching your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, yes !!! The correct length movie ! Well done. I think I’m not the only one to say I enjoyed a good length movie from you and 1113 tonight. Keep it up.
If modern transmissions were even half as robust as that clutch pack they would almost never wear out. Incredible engineering in the old stuff. I deal with old 2 stroke Detroits and just hard to beat the old ways.
Such patients professionalism and knowledge. It's a true honor getting to watch your videos. I too am waiting with great anticipation to hear it run, but I'm also in no rush at the same time. I really enjoyed getting to see every detail of the reassembly process.
Love your videos, you put so much effort into giving us the best video. Your attention to details just blows me away, I'm kinda like Rick when I'm working on stuff, but your teaching me to slow down and get it right, so thanks. There is a Caterpillar junk yard up the road from my house. But of course I live in Oregon, so not doing you any good, but I think of you and your dad every time I pass by it. Many thanks for the education ya'll are giving to people, need more like ya'll.
I watch about 10 different TH-cam channels this by far is the one I wait for each week. Outstanding mechanical skills, everything so meticulous. Toby I wish I had the patience you have. Keep up the good work!
Thank you enjoy all your videos. Love your H I mowed a lot of hay with a H and 7ft sickle bar mower in the big hole valley in Montana thanks for entertainment keep em coming
Watching your videos reminds me of working on Farm and Ranch equipment that hadn't been into a proper shop in a long time and on disassembly finding Nails substituted for Carter pins and handmade Woodruff keys that have been installed that were under size worn out collapse Springs with shims under them to get enough tension but resulted in coil binding. Gaskets made from cereal boxes the list goes on. Once I even found a case where they had attempted to weld a cylinder head on to the block to stop leakage.
Another fine description and reassembly of another beautiful sub assembly. Great job, Squatch. I've learned tons from you in methods and procedures that are invaluable Now, I just wish that I could get all the tools and RETAIN the knowledge!
##grandpa's opinion. As a farm boy in the AF back in the 1960s I was taught aircraft mechanics style . There was no parking a plane on the side of the road Then working in mining, I saw a lot of sloppy mechanics. You are aircraft qualified
"Idle hands do the devils work" sure enuf doesnt apply to you. I believe you get more done in 20 hrs than anybody else can do in a week. Keep at it, great videos.
Nice! Big step conquered like no other recorded and video'd before! Congratulations on the chapter by chapter build. Ready for the next section to make this book whole!
Kinda reminds me of how some of the period and post lathe brakes would work. Not in the same system, the disconnect would be separate, but it's reminiscent. Heck, i bet you could take that unit as is, and just adapt it to a lathe's main shaft and that would be sufficient. For those that might not know, medium class and above lathes have both brakes and disconnects, it's aptly named "lathe break". Used to stop work really fast and speed up manufacturing process. Otherwise you'd have to wait for a huge amount of mass (in some of the biggun units) to stop, and that'd take forever.
That was an excellent comment give me an excellent visual picture of the results. Spent over ten years of my twenty year career in naval aviation teaching Support equipment rework and repair of the equipment to young and some older mechs how to fix them.It was a very rewarding time . Some of the equipment detail was very involved . Was able to introduce improvement process and make the equipment more effective and easier the maintain. You do an excellent job of explaining what you were doing. I have never gotten into the underside of dozers and what was involved in their maintenance.thanks for the information this eighty two year man was impressed with your presentation. Harry Jensen Vancouver Wa.
Came back to check out this video as pulled mine out. Was disengaging to easily at about half throttle. Had already tightened the adjusting screws once or twice already. Guess what the sleeve and dogs stayed in the clutch housing. Either wire locks gone, or never installed. Will find out when I pull the clutch housing cover as finally got new main clutch plates, and disc from General Gear and collar assembly from Florin. Love the sound of those clutch disc clinking. Your video's rock. Florin gave me a new P/N for 2A3688 - 3J4667. Hopefully it fits. I got the 2A3676 from Off Road Equipment, but if is as tight has you say I might go for the o-ring. Noting the sleeve screws and lock as will likely need those as well. Looks like Florin might be getting another order from me. Missing an exhaust gasket and a seal yet for the starting engine. I asked for 2 of the former, but they only put one on the order. Plus those other 2 locks. My starting engine has locks on the bolts holding the rear seal housing, none on the front housing. Didn't notice, or don't remember on your starting engine disassembly of yours did or not.
@@squatch253 Seems like an odd place to use fold over locks. My 5U parts manual does show the fold over locks, but it only starts at S/N 5U13237. Not even on the Iron Mistress? Maybe was a change some where along the line. I notice the manual also shows the longer cap screws for the pinion sleeve, and the lock tabs. That must have been a change as well some where along the line. I wonder how my pinion worked at all without those cap screws, and for how long. Only started having the issue in the last year. That could explain why it was kicking out when under compression at half throttle. Not enough friction somewhere to keep the dogs aligned on the stop. The screws may have been gone even longer, as only started having issues when I added oil to the pinion clutch housing which appears to have leaked into the bell housing. Perhaps that oil got in around the sleeve and reduced what ever bit of friction there was. Hopefully the dogs are still in good shape.
@@squatch253 Yeah! I can imagine. Testament to how well built things were. Like the Timex, takes a beating and keeps on ticking. People used to joke, don't clean of the dirt/rust, that is what is keeping it running/holding it together. :)
@@squatch253 My parts manual seems to have some errors on the pony engine. 14 head studs, but only 12 nuts. 6 locks for the rear cover, none on the front, and I didn't find any when I took it apart, so that jives. Have yet to see a part number for the spark plug guard, not in the book. Wonder if that is an aftermarket addition, or a custom job. I have seen at least 2 D2's with them. Later head design where plug is horizontal in the center of the head, instead of at an angle, from the top.
Finally got back to working on the D2. Getting some much needed rain so time to work indoors. Also had a week break due to sciatic acting up. Got the clutch cover off. Found the pinion sleeve. Not bolts, or locks, not even in the clutch housing. Either never installed, or came loose and went out the drain hole. Having trouble getting the latch nut off, awfully tight. How much pressure can I put on that pinion gear in the vise, before I break it? Letting that and the other nut soak in penetrating oil. The nut at the other end was tight as well, got it loose by engaging the clutch, and holding the latch nut. One was bound to loosen, or the clutch pack would slip. Maybe I should try putting that nut back on, put in the cotter pin, and clamp the nut in the vise. Then should be able to loosen the latch nut.
Truly enjoy this "rebuild series". I'm a bit surprised you didn't put any anti-seize on the shaft for that handle. For gaskets, I've found permatex is the best for those. Just a quick question on those caps, couldn't you just use a self tapping screw, slide hammer and pop those out. If you need to reuse, it's just as simple as using a torch to weld the screw hole closed, touch up with a die grinder or dremel, never know it was drilled. Great video as always. Cheers :)
This is addictive. Put 2 O rings in that space. If you put one the it will not create enough pressure on the OD, but it will go lateral. I have seen thin in hydraulic pistons. And I think is enough space for another one. Can't hurt.
I have been watching intently as you rebuilt the pinion drive. I have an old D4, my problem is the pinion won’t stay latched so i have to help it by holding up on the engagement lever. I will be watching to see how you adjust said pinion, or am I past the point of adjusting? Will it be a rebuild like 1113? You have already saved me from making 2 drastic mistakes, I was going to try to remove assembly without taking the starting motor off and the other video that showed the engagement rod and what happens if you try to remove things without having access to it and it falls out of place. Love the old cats, and your videos!!👍👍👍👍 till next time!!
@18:15 "... we'll be here for another thirty minutes if I get into that." Is that a promise? :D BTW, both the "engineer" and the "artist" in me agree on this: this clutch/spider/brake/shaft assembly is a damn nice piece of engineering.
Yep 25:19 need to visit and aquire and new H/F light . And I'd go into overtime watching your channel long before some paid sports star. You do this out of love for all things Yellow and loud.🤔
Am I right in thinking that the cavity with the gear that picks up the drive from the starting engine shares the oil in the rest of the starting mechanism?
You respect the old ways without eschewing the pragmatic. (I.e., the lock wire nuts vs. foldover locks, and the off-spec O ring instead of the original seal.) I like that, but I bet there are some gatekeepers on both sides that don't. Eff'em and feed'em fish heads. (Or lutefisk.)
I was curious about the wire secured bolts. Have you ever seen where the wire failed and the bolts became loose? Or do you simply prefer the foldovers ?
I just had those wire secured bolts fail on my d2, allowing the pinion gear to wander around and make terrifying noises when in clanked off the ring gear, more so going down hill than up hill. It seems that some moisture got into the main clutch housing (western Oregon, go figure) and corroded and weakened the wire, in addition to the wallowing of the threads. Thank a million for the part numbers to upgrade the cap screws and fold overs. If it weren’t for smart guys like you helping out guys like me, there’d be a lot more dead cats inn the woods.
Hi starting a d 4 engine just starting accidently pushed throttle in went high speed all of a sudden pup quit and diesel as well ..now pup will only turn to top dead center.then stop reverse by hand and same stop .to me I think pinion wont disengage ..what do you think
Like you, I marvel at the thought processes that led to these designs. Just curious, the drive looks to be the same as a 540 pto shaft. I was thinking that it would be an adaptation of a common shaft design if it is.
Squatch, what do the first two characters in the part numbers mean? 2A, 4B, 6D etc. Do they refer to a sub-assembly/area of the engine? I have searched but can't find an explanation.
Did you buff the pinion sleeve after removing it from the evaporust? Whenever I leave something in for 24 hours or more it turns dark w/that "carbon migration" and I am unable to remove the darkness. They say it doesn't hurt the metal, but I'd sure like to be able to get it back to it's natural metal color
Stupid question: At 27:15 it almost looks like one could get 2 of those substitute O-rings in there. Would that be a stupid idea or just not necessary?
Whoever designed the pinion drive was a certifiable genius. It's KISS.
As usual great videos. I honestly look forward to your videos. I hope everyone who watches the videos understands how much effort goes into it! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
What a beautifully complex
sub assembly.
Phrase of the day: “viscous drag”. Love it.
To be totally honest I like the longer videos! Thanks! Can’t wait until the power is put to ground!!!
My OCD appreciates your trimming cotter pins to the proper length.
Haha!
Hey KD I was in 498 back in the mid 80’s! LDCK 2AD I knew a Pearce in truck Platoon
This is the educational film the Cat mechanic many decade ago would look at.
I’ve learned more about these D2 cats than I have ever imagined! I’m hooked and can’t wait to see this old girl move on her own. Awesome job man! Thank you!
Your D2 build vids are awsome, I very much look forward to the first start- I´d bet 20$ on it lighting up in the first three crankshaft rotations after You give it fuel while cranking and stay running. You are putting it together with so much care and detail- I don´t see no reason why it shouldn´t pop up that instant You switch on fuel.
Man, I really crave this first start. The way You´re taking us along for the ride is nicely entertaining, I just watched this for dinner, please take care, don´t let the Kung Flu get You...
Your videos are never boring. I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for your reply. It takes me back to the 80s when i start working for a Dealership.
I love your videos and you’re style. I may never have one of those machines, but your work ethic and technique translates to many other jobs. This should be standard for young folks to learn from. Thank you for posting.
I couldn't agree more!
I wish Squatch and you tube were around 35 years ago when I was working on a D2!
Popcorn ready for the starting engine build. Really looking forward to that.
Same here
Been waiting for this starting engine also, can’t wait.
Waiting for the moment of starting the D engine is more exciting than Christmas Eve, any chance of getting Senior to dress up like "Santa", and pull the starting lever?
I'm wide awake, it's morning here out in rural Cambodia. I'm stuck until this virus thing allows free travel again, so your videos keep me from going insane, lol.
Great effort putting this together 👍, l enjoy every second of it.
You've even taught this 71 year old to pay attention to detail when I'm repairing my car and bikes....
Toby you underestimate your loyal followers, who would go to sleep when this gem is being put back together? Thank you for another great episode.
I have heard about your rebuilds for a while now. Finally had time to click on a link and watch one... then two, three, four....! Your presentation manner is excellent. Have a great day!
Thanks so much for going through that parts breakdown and evaluation.
That is just a beautiful assembly beautifully described and filmed. Stellar!!!
For the time period the engineers that came up with that were brilliant.
I am always amazed at the Brilliance of these designers engineers and Machinist that developed these engines back in the day.
You are an excellent teacher, passionate enthusiast and competent mechanic. Someday I want to find/restore a grader...looking forward to that build
only "competent"?? ouch!
I can't wait to see the starting motor being rebuilt. I wish I could restore a tractor or crawler but I don't have the funds or the means to do so. That is why I love this channel. To see it all tacken apart, cleaned and reassembled is great. Keep up the good work.
Good video Toby - thanks for taking us along. Your such a good instructor!
Would not miss that episode. Every thing is looking good. I still say this engine will be just as good or better. That's my opinion. Never get tired of watching your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, yes !!! The correct length movie ! Well done. I think I’m not the only one to say I enjoyed a good length movie from you and 1113 tonight. Keep it up.
Quote of the day for me was"an that's all there is to it " great video as always 💪👍
I'm really looking forward to the start engine rebuild! Great video!
If modern transmissions were even half as robust as that clutch pack they would almost never wear out. Incredible engineering in the old stuff. I deal with old 2 stroke Detroits and just hard to beat the old ways.
Yahoo, I've been looking forward to the starting engine rebuild! Great video Squatch. You do an excellent job with your editing too
Such patients professionalism and knowledge. It's a true honor getting to watch your videos. I too am waiting with great anticipation to hear it run, but I'm also in no rush at the same time. I really enjoyed getting to see every detail of the reassembly process.
Love your videos, you put so much effort into giving us the best video. Your attention to details just blows me away, I'm kinda like Rick when I'm working on stuff, but your teaching me to slow down and get it right, so thanks. There is a Caterpillar junk yard up the road from my house. But of course I live in Oregon, so not doing you any good, but I think of you and your dad every time I pass by it. Many thanks for the education ya'll are giving to people, need more like ya'll.
I watch about 10 different TH-cam channels this by far is the one I wait for each week. Outstanding mechanical skills, everything so meticulous. Toby I wish I had the patience you have. Keep up the good work!
A very well thought out piece of engineering and a good explanation of it’s function.
It will be nice to see the guts of the starting motor. You make it look easy. Great series. Big thumbs up 👍
Thanks for the great video Squatch. Now I know why dads old 2T D4 used to unlatch before the diesel engine fully started.
Hi I like you videos.I am from South Africa and a new subscriber
Another good one! Followed all the way through from beginning to end. I find this engine build immensely interesting.
Thank you enjoy all your videos. Love your H I mowed a lot of hay with a H and 7ft sickle bar mower in the big hole valley in Montana thanks for entertainment keep em coming
Watching your videos reminds me of working on Farm and Ranch equipment that hadn't been into a proper shop in a long time and on disassembly finding Nails substituted for Carter pins and handmade Woodruff keys that have been installed that were under size worn out collapse Springs with shims under them to get enough tension but resulted in coil binding.
Gaskets made from cereal boxes the list goes on. Once I even found a case where they had attempted to weld a cylinder head on to the block to stop leakage.
Great length! Love that you give us links to go back to see indepth builds, it does keep the pace going!
Really enjoy watching as you put these assemblies together. Industrial art at its finest!
Quite a complex little piece, that engagement device. Enjoyed this one very much, thank you.
What a treat to see someone so very good at this work!
I really appreciate your attention to detail in the work, and the video presentation. Nice job!
Another fine description and reassembly of another beautiful sub assembly. Great job, Squatch. I've learned tons from you in methods and procedures that are invaluable
Now, I just wish that I could get all the tools and RETAIN the knowledge!
I truly enjoy the detail you provide in all your videos!
Another great vid Squatch, thanks.
##grandpa's opinion. As a farm boy in the AF back in the 1960s I was taught aircraft mechanics style . There was no parking a plane on the side of the road Then working in mining, I saw a lot of sloppy mechanics. You are aircraft qualified
This is very informative; thanks a lot!
Looks great, meticulous as always, looking forward to start engine build
Always enjoyable. Full watch and thumbs up!
It’s fun to watch you having fun.
gotta love that evaporust. used it many times
That was memorable. Looking forward to the starter engine build too.
"Idle hands do the devils work" sure enuf doesnt apply to you. I believe you get more done in 20 hrs than anybody else can do in a week. Keep at it, great videos.
Nice! Big step conquered like no other recorded and video'd before! Congratulations on the chapter by chapter build. Ready for the next section to make this book whole!
Looking forward to the starting engine rebuild very much so
Solid guy😊👍 great mechanic /also SR.😊👍
You were born to late you would have been the cat man to go to for repairs 👍
Kinda reminds me of how some of the period and post lathe brakes would work. Not in the same system, the disconnect would be separate, but it's reminiscent. Heck, i bet you could take that unit as is, and just adapt it to a lathe's main shaft and that would be sufficient.
For those that might not know, medium class and above lathes have both brakes and disconnects, it's aptly named "lathe break". Used to stop work really fast and speed up manufacturing process. Otherwise you'd have to wait for a huge amount of mass (in some of the biggun units) to stop, and that'd take forever.
Love the vids man your getting her done can't wait to see her running
Another awesome video. More things I didn’t know and very useful information!! Keep it up!! Good Job
Always a great Interesting video!!
Ireally like that assembly and how it works.
Loved it as always
I'm going watch this again because I might of missed something.
😊😊👍👍👍💝🍵🍵🍵💥🌎
Good build clip, enjoyed watching.
26:35 It makes all of the inside parts find their way to the outside :-). Enjoy the visual !
That was an excellent comment give me an excellent visual picture of the results. Spent over ten years of my twenty year career in naval aviation teaching Support equipment rework and repair of the equipment to young and some older mechs how to fix them.It was a very rewarding time . Some of the equipment detail was very involved . Was able to introduce improvement process and make the equipment more effective and easier the maintain. You do an excellent job of explaining what you were doing. I have never gotten into the underside of dozers and what was involved in their maintenance.thanks for the information this eighty two year man was impressed with your presentation. Harry Jensen Vancouver Wa.
Came back to check out this video as pulled mine out. Was disengaging to easily at about half throttle. Had already tightened the adjusting screws once or twice already. Guess what the sleeve and dogs stayed in the clutch housing. Either wire locks gone, or never installed. Will find out when I pull the clutch housing cover as finally got new main clutch plates, and disc from General Gear and collar assembly from Florin.
Love the sound of those clutch disc clinking. Your video's rock. Florin gave me a new P/N for 2A3688 - 3J4667. Hopefully it fits. I got the 2A3676 from Off Road Equipment, but if is as tight has you say I might go for the o-ring. Noting the sleeve screws and lock as will likely need those as well. Looks like Florin might be getting another order from me. Missing an exhaust gasket and a seal yet for the starting engine. I asked for 2 of the former, but they only put one on the order. Plus those other 2 locks. My starting engine has locks on the bolts holding the rear seal housing, none on the front housing. Didn't notice, or don't remember on your starting engine disassembly of yours did or not.
@@squatch253 Seems like an odd place to use fold over locks. My 5U parts manual does show the fold over locks, but it only starts at S/N 5U13237. Not even on the Iron Mistress? Maybe was a change some where along the line. I notice the manual also shows the longer cap screws for the pinion sleeve, and the lock tabs. That must have been a change as well some where along the line. I wonder how my pinion worked at all without those cap screws, and for how long. Only started having the issue in the last year. That could explain why it was kicking out when under compression at half throttle. Not enough friction somewhere to keep the dogs aligned on the stop. The screws may have been gone even longer, as only started having issues when I added oil to the pinion clutch housing which appears to have leaked into the bell housing. Perhaps that oil got in around the sleeve and reduced what ever bit of friction there was. Hopefully the dogs are still in good shape.
@@squatch253 Yeah! I can imagine. Testament to how well built things were. Like the Timex, takes a beating and keeps on ticking. People used to joke, don't clean of the dirt/rust, that is what is keeping it running/holding it together. :)
@@squatch253 My parts manual seems to have some errors on the pony engine. 14 head studs, but only 12 nuts. 6 locks for the rear cover, none on the front, and I didn't find any when I took it apart, so that jives. Have yet to see a part number for the spark plug guard, not in the book. Wonder if that is an aftermarket addition, or a custom job. I have seen at least 2 D2's with them. Later head design where plug is horizontal in the center of the head, instead of at an angle, from the top.
Finally got back to working on the D2. Getting some much needed rain so time to work indoors. Also had a week break due to sciatic acting up. Got the clutch cover off. Found the pinion sleeve. Not bolts, or locks, not even in the clutch housing. Either never installed, or came loose and went out the drain hole.
Having trouble getting the latch nut off, awfully tight. How much pressure can I put on that pinion gear in the vise, before I break it? Letting that and the other nut soak in penetrating oil. The nut at the other end was tight as well, got it loose by engaging the clutch, and holding the latch nut. One was bound to loosen, or the clutch pack would slip. Maybe I should try putting that nut back on, put in the cotter pin, and clamp the nut in the vise. Then should be able to loosen the latch nut.
Well with a bit of heat and persuasion got it all apart.
Good Video
Great video as always......Bring it on, we've been waiting for the pony show to commence!!
Heck of away to end my day watching some Squatch!!!!!
Truly enjoy this "rebuild series". I'm a bit surprised you didn't put any anti-seize on the shaft for that handle. For gaskets, I've found permatex is the best for those. Just a quick question on those caps, couldn't you just use a self tapping screw, slide hammer and pop those out. If you need to reuse, it's just as simple as using a torch to weld the screw hole closed, touch up with a die grinder or dremel, never know it was drilled. Great video as always. Cheers :)
A thing of beauty... Great video.
That was fricken awesome!! Keep up the good work.
Thumbs down? Really, what's not to like about this video?
Cant wait for The next episod.. 😁
Awsome video man. Made my day.
This is addictive. Put 2 O rings in that space. If you put one the it will not create enough pressure on the OD, but it will go lateral. I have seen thin in hydraulic pistons. And I think is enough space for another one. Can't hurt.
Can't wait to see this cat running 😉😊🖒
Built like a 30 lb Swiss watch. Sure looks nice all cleaned up.
I have been watching intently as you rebuilt the pinion drive. I have an old D4, my problem is the pinion won’t stay latched so i have to help it by holding up on the engagement lever. I will be watching to see how you adjust said pinion, or am I past the point of adjusting? Will it be a rebuild like 1113? You have already saved me from making 2 drastic mistakes, I was going to try to remove assembly without taking the starting motor off and the other video that showed the engagement rod and what happens if you try to remove things without having access to it and it falls out of place. Love the old cats, and your videos!!👍👍👍👍 till next time!!
Check out the video he linked on adjusting things on the D4, I'm pretty sure he covered this exact problem.
Squatch253 I thank you for the advice, I will try tightening the latches. You have some great videos, will be watching more of them!!👍👍👍👍
@18:15 "... we'll be here for another thirty minutes if I get into that." Is that a promise? :D
BTW, both the "engineer" and the "artist" in me agree on this: this clutch/spider/brake/shaft assembly is a damn nice piece of engineering.
Yep 25:19 need to visit and aquire and new H/F light . And I'd go into overtime watching your channel long before some paid sports star. You do this out of love for all things Yellow and loud.🤔
No Sir,...I do not go to sleep during these videos,..if I did I would miss something interesting.
Good golly, man! Very well done. Interesting.
Great video. Thanks.
Hope you get the starting engine video out soon.
Am I right in thinking that the cavity with the gear that picks up the drive from the starting engine shares the oil in the rest of the starting mechanism?
You respect the old ways without eschewing the pragmatic.
(I.e., the lock wire nuts vs. foldover locks, and the off-spec O ring instead of the original seal.)
I like that, but I bet there are some gatekeepers on both sides that don't. Eff'em and feed'em fish heads.
(Or lutefisk.)
Ship in a bottle, made me laugh!
No seals were injured in the making of this episode! 😁
What about cOtters?
I was curious about the wire secured bolts. Have you ever seen where the wire failed and the bolts became loose? Or do you simply prefer the foldovers ?
I just had those wire secured bolts fail on my d2, allowing the pinion gear to wander around and make terrifying noises when in clanked off the ring gear, more so going down hill than up hill. It seems that some moisture got into the main clutch housing (western Oregon, go figure) and corroded and weakened the wire, in addition to the wallowing of the threads.
Thank a million for the part numbers to upgrade the cap screws and fold overs. If it weren’t for smart guys like you helping out guys like me, there’d be a lot more dead cats inn the woods.
Craftman! Nice to watch.
Hi starting a d 4 engine just starting accidently pushed throttle in went high speed all of a sudden pup quit and diesel as well ..now pup will only turn to top dead center.then stop reverse by hand and same stop .to me I think pinion wont disengage ..what do you think
What would something like 5j1113 be worth when it’s all completed. Seems like something that’s basically restored to OE condition would be priceless?
Squatch253 I love that you keep this history alive. Will watch your videos until the end!
Like you, I marvel at the thought processes that led to these designs. Just curious, the drive looks to be the same as a 540 pto shaft. I was thinking that it would be an adaptation of a common shaft design if it is.
Squatch, what do the first two characters in the part numbers mean? 2A, 4B, 6D etc. Do they refer to a sub-assembly/area of the engine? I have searched but can't find an explanation.
Did you buff the pinion sleeve after removing it from the evaporust? Whenever I leave something in for 24 hours or more it turns dark w/that "carbon migration" and I am unable to remove the darkness. They say it doesn't hurt the metal, but I'd sure like to be able to get it back to it's natural metal color
Stupid question: At 27:15 it almost looks like one could get 2 of those substitute O-rings in there. Would that be a stupid idea or just not necessary?