Watched a few of your videos. Your information and the way you put it across is superb. It flows very well not a single pause. It really shows it’s ultra clear in your mind. Like it 👍🏻
I have a question. I recently got a new 2023 GSX-R1000 and the spring looks like the one depicted at 2:00 -- at the top where the end of the spring touches the coil, I am seeing wear on the coil from the spring end rubbing against the coil, causing paint to rub off, etc. Is this normal? Is it a sign the spring isn't properly adjusted? Manufacturing defect?
Thanks for your question. It is very unusual to have paint chip or rub off a spring from riding and to have debris you can see. I would ask the dealer for a review of the rear shock paint debris.
Quick question, my 97 TL1000s rotary damper is knackered, i bought a damper from hagon to suit my weight, and a hyperpro progressive spring. I'm gonna fit it myself, i build bespoke handling machines, so im, good with my hands but im no bike mechanic. With it been side mounted what pitfalls can i expect. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Has to be the same length shock at a minimum to get the swing arm angle correct. With the sp[ring being progressive. uou will need 8-12mm of static sag and see what rider sag you get post static measurement. Make surer you install a very thin cable tie on the shock shaft to assess travel used. Biggest enemy will be weight transfer to the rear under hard acceleration.
What about bikes with linear springs but then fitted with a progressive linkage? I have a monster S4 that has a linkage and a monster 1200 R that doesn’t. The R is harsh over the bumps in the road and I want to soften it off. I’m struggling to work out if a progressive spring would help or if the high speed damping is too hard and it’s hydraulically locking up. Thanks
For the R, check shock travel used first. A little grease on the shock shaft can reveal a great deal. 2. Soften preload and make sure you set rebound correctly with hot oil. 3. Ride normally for 40 minutes and review shock travel. Ideal is 2-3mm above the bumper.
How do you set sag with a progressive spring? I bought a set of öhlins for my triumph and it came with progressive springs 18-27NM/mm. Should I buy a set of linear instead?
Set 2 fixed points between rear axle and bodywork. Fuly extend and measure, set the bike under its own weight and measure, then have someone measure you.Record the numbers and do the maths. Then see how much actual shock travel you use via the shock shaft to see what you need (text book vs real world) davemosstuning.com/?s=setting+sag
Set sag at 35-40mm front and 30-35mm rear. Ride and monitor fork and shock travel used and optimize it appropriately (separate videos on fork and shock travel). Once testing is completed, remeasure and sag and find what was ideal for you and your motorcycle. Repeat the process for every motorcycle you own. It is worth a a couple of hours of work!
If you have the $$, linear is preferred for the forks and it will take some time to find the right rate. Same is true of the shocks. BUT, you have to be good enough to overpower the OEM springs first.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks for the reply. So if one does put in the effort to find the right rate then linear as I understood? Would make sense, a progressive spring one the other hand would be a better one fits all solution I guess.
@@Max-yy3lz Very well said and accurate. Do you want the right spring for you or one that kind of works? So, it depends on $$ and types of use as to what will have the best return on investment.
What are some reasons why my motorcyle would sit lower? I would typically be tip-toed, but now i'm able to plant my feet on the ground. No adjustments have been made. Would it be wear & tear on the rear shock?
1. Progressive springs are much softer and generally sag more, so if you reduce spring tension, you get much bigger sag numbers. 2. Oil in the forks and shock ages over time to become less viscous so the resting point drops a few millimeters. 3. The seat wears in and foam is more compressed so your feet are closer to the ground.
Maybe you finally hit puberty? Just kidding, one thing is your getting more confident in your riding where you used to feel barely in control you think of it as on tiptoe and now better planted but it is unlikely your bike is sagging 5 or 6 inches lower than before even with all the ideas that Dave brought up.
Hi Dave thanks to share this. Question for a travel bike with electronic suspension like ktm 1290 super adventure to travel heavy loaded two persons + luggage like 230kg of load , you recommend progressive suspension or linear? I have the possibility to buy a ktech linear 210n/mm or hyperpro progresive 170n/mm - 230n/mm currently my stock ktm is using 160n/mm i think linear.
Service the oil? Are you kidding me? I would have to take half the bike apart just to get my my hand on the rear shock. I would rather just put up with it then service it every 7000 miles. All I want is a spring that does not bottom out. On rough roads, I will live with the fact I just need to slow down since the rebound does not match the road surface. Bike manufactures need to stop screwing around and build bikes we can service. I should not have to take 20 screws, bolts and panels off just to change oil in a shock. I understand people who race need to do all this but 99 percent of us doe not race. I buy a 15 - 25 thousand dollars bike and the first thing I have to is replace the fork springs and the rear spring. That's BS.
When you build a bike that is sold worldwide, I guess 30+% are going to be disappointed given the weight range and loading up for touring with a passenger. Thankfully the aftermarket helps substantially outside of "bling". Point taken on the time it takes to get shocks out. Some are a couple of minutes, others are 30 minutes or more.
@@catalystreactionsbw That is why it needs to serviceable. A bike which can be purchased by a 120 pound woman or a 250 pound man needs to be adjust at the time of sale and the process needs to be easy. In stead we take springs out and throw them away. AND I had a friend fide my 800GS and do some quick stop. She is 140 pounds and she too bottomed out the front springs. I'm 6 foot 4 220 and ride with people much bigger than I am.
Watched a few of your videos. Your information and the way you put it across is superb. It flows very well not a single pause. It really shows it’s ultra clear in your mind. Like it 👍🏻
Thanks for your thoughts and review. I appreciate the kind words as I am always working to improve.
I have a question. I recently got a new 2023 GSX-R1000 and the spring looks like the one depicted at 2:00 -- at the top where the end of the spring touches the coil, I am seeing wear on the coil from the spring end rubbing against the coil, causing paint to rub off, etc. Is this normal? Is it a sign the spring isn't properly adjusted? Manufacturing defect?
Thanks for your question. It is very unusual to have paint chip or rub off a spring from riding and to have debris you can see. I would ask the dealer for a review of the rear shock paint debris.
Great explanation
Quick question, my 97 TL1000s rotary damper is knackered, i bought a damper from hagon to suit my weight, and a hyperpro progressive spring. I'm gonna fit it myself, i build bespoke handling machines, so im, good with my hands but im no bike mechanic. With it been side mounted what pitfalls can i expect. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Has to be the same length shock at a minimum to get the swing arm angle correct. With the sp[ring being progressive. uou will need 8-12mm of static sag and see what rider sag you get post static measurement. Make surer you install a very thin cable tie on the shock shaft to assess travel used. Biggest enemy will be weight transfer to the rear under hard acceleration.
What about bikes with linear springs but then fitted with a progressive linkage? I have a monster S4 that has a linkage and a monster 1200 R that doesn’t. The R is harsh over the bumps in the road and I want to soften it off. I’m struggling to work out if a progressive spring would help or if the high speed damping is too hard and it’s hydraulically locking up. Thanks
For the R, check shock travel used first. A little grease on the shock shaft can reveal a great deal. 2. Soften preload and make sure you set rebound correctly with hot oil. 3. Ride normally for 40 minutes and review shock travel. Ideal is 2-3mm above the bumper.
How do you set sag with a progressive spring? I bought a set of öhlins for my triumph and it came with progressive springs 18-27NM/mm. Should I buy a set of linear instead?
Set 2 fixed points between rear axle and bodywork. Fuly extend and measure, set the bike under its own weight and measure, then have someone measure you.Record the numbers and do the maths. Then see how much actual shock travel you use via the shock shaft to see what you need (text book vs real world) davemosstuning.com/?s=setting+sag
how do you set sag for progressive springs?
Set sag at 35-40mm front and 30-35mm rear. Ride and monitor fork and shock travel used and optimize it appropriately (separate videos on fork and shock travel). Once testing is completed, remeasure and sag and find what was ideal for you and your motorcycle. Repeat the process for every motorcycle you own. It is worth a a couple of hours of work!
@@catalystreactionsbwmy front shock has 72mm total stroke and my rear has 87 should I follow the sag you provided?
@BboyEMC 30% front and rear as total sag between static and rider, then assess travel used in forks and shock.
@@catalystreactionsbwdoes it mean that its not necessary to have the same sag for front and rear?
. @BboyEMC That is correct - you need what you need.... Every suspension per model has different spring rates.
Is it possible to buy an aftermarket coil spring? Where?
Any suspension shop or online from companies like Race Tech, GP Suspension, K-Tech, Nitron etc.
What is prefered on the track? linear or progressive? especially in forks.
If you have the $$, linear is preferred for the forks and it will take some time to find the right rate. Same is true of the shocks. BUT, you have to be good enough to overpower the OEM springs first.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks for the reply. So if one does put in the effort to find the right rate then linear as I understood?
Would make sense, a progressive spring one the other hand would be a better one fits all solution I guess.
@@Max-yy3lz Very well said and accurate. Do you want the right spring for you or one that kind of works? So, it depends on $$ and types of use as to what will have the best return on investment.
What are some reasons why my motorcyle would sit lower? I would typically be tip-toed, but now i'm able to plant my feet on the ground. No adjustments have been made. Would it be wear & tear on the rear shock?
1. Progressive springs are much softer and generally sag more, so if you reduce spring tension, you get much bigger sag numbers. 2. Oil in the forks and shock ages over time to become less viscous so the resting point drops a few millimeters. 3. The seat wears in and foam is more compressed so your feet are closer to the ground.
Its not your bike...
Your shrinking im afraid
Also, as the tire wears it gets smaller
Take your stilettos off
Maybe you finally hit puberty? Just kidding, one thing is your getting more confident in your riding where you used to feel barely in control you think of it as on tiptoe and now better planted but it is unlikely your bike is sagging 5 or 6 inches lower than before even with all the ideas that Dave brought up.
Hi Dave thanks to share this. Question for a travel bike with electronic suspension like ktm 1290 super adventure to travel heavy loaded two persons + luggage like 230kg of load , you recommend progressive suspension or linear?
I have the possibility to buy a ktech linear 210n/mm or hyperpro progresive 170n/mm - 230n/mm
currently my stock ktm is using 160n/mm i think linear.
Generally linear is much easier to deal with and not so spongy especially when loaded with a passenger and gear IMHO.
Service the oil? Are you kidding me? I would have to take half the bike apart just to get my my hand on the rear shock. I would rather just put up with it then service it every 7000 miles. All I want is a spring that does not bottom out. On rough roads, I will live with the fact I just need to slow down since the rebound does not match the road surface. Bike manufactures need to stop screwing around and build bikes we can service. I should not have to take 20 screws, bolts and panels off just to change oil in a shock. I understand people who race need to do all this but 99 percent of us doe not race. I buy a 15 - 25 thousand dollars bike and the first thing I have to is replace the fork springs and the rear spring. That's BS.
When you build a bike that is sold worldwide, I guess 30+% are going to be disappointed given the weight range and loading up for touring with a passenger. Thankfully the aftermarket helps substantially outside of "bling". Point taken on the time it takes to get shocks out. Some are a couple of minutes, others are 30 minutes or more.
@@catalystreactionsbw That is why it needs to serviceable. A bike which can be purchased by a 120 pound woman or a 250 pound man needs to be adjust at the time of sale and the process needs to be easy. In stead we take springs out and throw them away. AND I had a friend fide my 800GS and do some quick stop. She is 140 pounds and she too bottomed out the front springs. I'm 6 foot 4 220 and ride with people much bigger than I am.