Love your videos. You always think of the regular guy who doesn’t have specialized tools and I really appreciate that. All the knowledge and tips you provide are so valuable. Please keep up the great work! Thanks for doing what you do.
You may have mentioned it some where else , it may have been a good time to also mention MLS head gaskets and compression increases and can be torqued in steps to appx. 40 foot pounds . I never liked the idea of stretch bolts or partial turns after a certain torque , no way to predict the final torque , you can not condition steel to stretch the exact same amount , but , thats just me . Another thing is exhaust studs that can be a big problem , I have a rear exhaust stud with about a half thread gone , when I finally worked the nut off without destroying the other threads , I had a couple 1/4" stainless steel washers I drilled out to 5/16" , dressed with a file , and used them to keep the nut back away from the bad thread , I used CLR several times on the stud threads and a small wire brush to remove rust from the threads , washed it off and put anti sieze on the stud , started and let cool a few times to burn off the oil in the anti seize > maybe you got some better ways of dealing with these studs and removing them without breaking them ....... Thats a really nice looking jug you got there !
If I have enough threads to use two jam nuts tightened together than I remove it that way but sometimes I have to tig weld a nut on and remove it. In you situation I probably would have done the same.
Thanks for the compliment means alot to know your work is appreciated. The proof on that was high enough I could have run the bike of it. I hadn't cut it yet.
When replacing lifters and pushrods should you also get new rocker arms and rocker arm shafts? They should include them in big bore and camchest kits don't you think. I've heard some twin cams have annoying tick from rocker arm shaft moving and hitting against bolt as they wear out..
What I recommend is to measure everything to make sure there well within the service wear limits. I was trained and firmly believe that it's a waist of money to replace parts that are not close to the limits. When it comes to the tick, more often than not that comes from the choice of cam someone put in. If they chose a cam with high lift and ramps down to close fast, than the valve will hit the seat with more force making more valve train noise. If you take a mechanic stethoscope and listen to the valves before you modify the engine, than if you do have a tik it well probably be coming from the same place and sound like the same sound just louder. Just check the rocker shaft to Make sure you can't move them. There pressed in so you shouldn't be able to turn them by hand.
I like your style. Good stuff... Hell, we're practically neighbors! I'm from N. Ms. Bought 3 bikes from Bumpus, Collierville. I do my own wrenching over here too. I don't trust nobody! Carry on...
@@DeathProofProductions I checked the crank pinion runout tonight, it’s at.0075 to .008. Should I do the bottom end too? Or is it acceptable for chain drive cams? I’ve seen so much differing opinions on this my damned head is about to spin or blow up…
@@DeathProofProductions No sir, it's tore down to do the heads and cams. If I need to pull it I will. I don't want to put the time, effort, and dollars into it to have it destroy itself.
that rear cylinder rocker bolts are a bugger to get out I used Electrician's Mini Ratchet with a 3/16 bit but to get them back in an torqued down it takes dogbones? those are pricey how do you torque them? dogbone? or jus by feel?
Do you have an opinion on head gasket thickness? Placing an order with cyco gaskets and I see they have .030 & .040 options for twin cam head gasket. Going to be going through my “new-to-me” ‘05 Electra glide with 88 TC shortly. Videos are awesome, keep em coming!
Yes sir...good content... Would you have to up the throttle body size if you have the heads ported?... That's crazy there's only that little wear in the cylinders after 100 thou and all these yahoos buying brand new m8 107 and 114 and the getting 131 kits installed on brand spanking new motors .....blows my mind. I wish I had money to throw away like that.
its right on the edge of needing to go to a bigger throttle body. twin cams can go a long time. the white electra glide i have here has about 250000 on it with no compression loss.
@@DeathProofProductions wow that's amazing. And it still has the stock cast pistons?....and if you would tear it down to do the gaskets and breather wouldn't it be ideal to put forges pistons in it?....or are cast good enough for everyday street riding. Thanks for responding back bay the way man.
No this bike is my paint guys brothers, this will be the only mods he will do so we didn't do adjustable. He was just wanting a little more grunt for our trips out west.
Hey bubba I have an 08 softail 96ci that I recently acquired, got her runnin she idled fine turned it off now its dumping oil in the front cylinder so much so that when I lean the bike to the right it drips out the pipe... not to bother you brother but any information would be a huge help.
I noticed on my early model 2000 dyna manual it says to torque the head bolts to 84-108 in lbs then 144-168 followed my a 90 degree turn but for newer Dyna models 2006 and above the torquing is a bit different 120-144 in lbs then 15-17 ft lbs then a 90 degree turn is that an update or just for newer model dynas
Yeah I don't know why they do that I noticed when I worked at the dealership they changed all torque values up or down all the time. I use what I have had the best results over the past 27 years to run with.
I’ve never done this to a Harley, air cooled VW but not a Harley. I have installed S&S gear drive cams in my 2000 FLSTS and Screaming Eagle cam kit with the orange cam plate and hydraulic tensioner in my 2004, FLHTCI. All that said, do you need to remove the tappet covers to remove the cylinders?
I had an exhaust stud break in the rear cylinder and had to tear into it. Is there a way to slide the cylinder onto the piston without taking it off the arm? I appreciate your content btw
I compress the rings with a ring compressor. Then I slide the cylinder over top of the piston and tap it on using the end of a hammer handle. Thanks for the compliment.
Just removed my cylinder head off because I cracked it trying to remove an exhaust stud my question is do I need to replace the cylinder studs I’ve look at the manual and it doesn’t say they are 1 time use so I’m trying to figure out whether they are reusable but I will be changing the female thread bolts that go onto the studs from the cylinder head
@@DeathProofProductionshey there again just had another question, I don’t need to worry about replacing the cylinder base o ring do I? I only took the head off not the cylinder.
if its a freshly honed cylinder with new rings, then you have to make sure the rings are gaped correctly so the engine doesn't burn oil and loose compression. If its a high mile engine than you just check it, and if its out of spec than you bore it out.
@@DeathProofProductions on my 14 StreetGlide I am doing a 107 big bore kit. tw555 cams. 10.25:1 pistons and new 2-1-2 exhaust. contemplating on head porting. Looking forward to a little extra giddy up.
@@DeathProofProductions according to the parts manual 16775-99b uses the o-rings. However after contacting harley seems that's correct you don't use those o-rings. Nice that they gave me the o rings when I picked up the head gaskets.
If you're going to do a how to video why don't you say what you're doing like when you're putting the lifters together. Stop trying to be a cowboy and explain what you're doing. I appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge but tell us exactly what you're doing, bro.
I cleaned the threads of the bolts before adding loctite. The Harley factory never told me when I was being certified by them that I had to clean the oil off the entire bolt for the loctite to work. They just trained me to clean the threads. That was back in 2002 so maybe things have changed since then. I would have filmed it but I figure if someone has enough skill to tear into the engine they have enough brains to clean the threads before applying loctite.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D2 | Fall | เครื่องร้อน พร้อมลุย](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JO2_bLow_1Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Love your videos. You always think of the regular guy who doesn’t have specialized tools and I really appreciate that. All the knowledge and tips you provide are so valuable. Please keep up the great work! Thanks for doing what you do.
means alot thanks.
I really do appreciate the no nonsense approach to the video. I don't need 2hrs of video to get the idea.
Thankyou.
nicely done. no frills no yadda yadda crap, just straight forward clean work and specs to boot!! Subbed
Thanks
Great work reassembling my build your video is tons of info. Not BS thanks for what you do.
Thanks for the compliment.
Some folk just born cool ...
there are no words.
you are the best. Hug strong from ITALY.
Thanks for the compliment.
You may have mentioned it some where else , it may have been a good time to also mention MLS head gaskets and compression increases and can be torqued in steps to appx. 40 foot pounds . I never liked the idea of stretch bolts or partial turns after a certain torque , no way to predict the final torque , you can not condition steel to stretch the exact same amount , but , thats just me . Another thing is exhaust studs that can be a big problem , I have a rear exhaust stud with about a half thread gone , when I finally worked the nut off without destroying the other threads , I had a couple 1/4" stainless steel washers I drilled out to 5/16" , dressed with a file , and used them to keep the nut back away from the bad thread , I used CLR several times on the stud threads and a small wire brush to remove rust from the threads , washed it off and put anti sieze on the stud , started and let cool a few times to burn off the oil in the anti seize > maybe you got some better ways of dealing with these studs and removing them without breaking them ....... Thats a really nice looking jug you got there !
If I have enough threads to use two jam nuts tightened together than I remove it that way but sometimes I have to tig weld a nut on and remove it. In you situation I probably would have done the same.
Great video! And to finish it off with a swig of fkn home brewed shine wow. This guys a legend
Thanks for the compliment means alot to know your work is appreciated. The proof on that was high enough I could have run the bike of it. I hadn't cut it yet.
When replacing lifters and pushrods should you also get new rocker arms and rocker arm shafts? They should include them in big bore and camchest kits don't you think. I've heard some twin cams have annoying tick from rocker arm shaft moving and hitting against bolt as they wear out..
What I recommend is to measure everything to make sure there well within the service wear limits. I was trained and firmly believe that it's a waist of money to replace parts that are not close to the limits. When it comes to the tick, more often than not that comes from the choice of cam someone put in. If they chose a cam with high lift and ramps down to close fast, than the valve will hit the seat with more force making more valve train noise. If you take a mechanic stethoscope and listen to the valves before you modify the engine, than if you do have a tik it well probably be coming from the same place and sound like the same sound just louder. Just check the rocker shaft to Make sure you can't move them. There pressed in so you shouldn't be able to turn them by hand.
Great video , your information is the best. THANKS
Thank you for that means alot.
I like your style. Good stuff...
Hell, we're practically neighbors! I'm from N. Ms. Bought 3 bikes from Bumpus, Collierville. I do my own wrenching over here too. I don't trust nobody! Carry on...
the bike I'm wrenching on was bought in Jackson
Excellent. I ride up there once & a while.
I live in the ozarks now but I got friends that still live there
Спасибо за видео, очень приятно вас смотреть.
nothing like washing shine down wt a beer. great vid, tks.
Bedankt voor de video het is van pas gekomen 😉
I like 04 twin cams best
Me to that's what my heratage is.
Great video! Got my 2012 Ultra TC 103 top end tore down. Had the heads ported by Mega-Flo and new cam chest, Woods 555 cam. Waiting some small parts…
Thanks, sounds like a it's gonna be a strong build. I've had good luck with the 555 cam.
@@DeathProofProductions I checked the crank pinion runout tonight, it’s at.0075 to .008. Should I do the bottom end too? Or is it acceptable for chain drive cams? I’ve seen so much differing opinions on this my damned head is about to spin or blow up…
Do you have the engine out of the bike.
@@DeathProofProductions No sir, it's tore down to do the heads and cams. If I need to pull it I will. I don't want to put the time, effort, and dollars into it to have it destroy itself.
It's within the service limit. If the engine was out I might consider it but it's fine.
I bet you could run that bike on the home brew. Damn good videos.
Probably so, thanks for the compliment.
Awesome
that rear cylinder rocker bolts are a bugger to get out I used Electrician's Mini Ratchet with a 3/16 bit but to get them back in an torqued down it takes dogbones? those are pricey how do you torque them? dogbone? or jus by feel?
It's ok to just go by feel but don't forget the blue loctite.
Good video bro. I feel like some home brew myself
We know that you are the MAN! peace ✌️ on2's
Thanks
Do you have an opinion on head gasket thickness? Placing an order with cyco gaskets and I see they have .030 & .040 options for twin cam head gasket. Going to be going through my “new-to-me” ‘05 Electra glide with 88 TC shortly. Videos are awesome, keep em coming!
I would go with .030 just to get the added compression for a little more grunt. Thanks for the compliment on the vids.
Thanks
Yes sir...good content...
Would you have to up the throttle body size if you have the heads ported?...
That's crazy there's only that little wear in the cylinders after 100 thou and all these yahoos buying brand new m8 107 and 114 and the getting 131 kits installed on brand spanking new motors .....blows my mind. I wish I had money to throw away like that.
its right on the edge of needing to go to a bigger throttle body. twin cams can go a long time. the white electra glide i have here has about 250000 on it with no compression loss.
@@DeathProofProductions wow that's amazing. And it still has the stock cast pistons?....and if you would tear it down to do the gaskets and breather wouldn't it be ideal to put forges pistons in it?....or are cast good enough for everyday street riding. Thanks for responding back bay the way man.
its just for touring. just needed a little more grunt on the bottom to pull the rocky mt a little better. forged are really for full on racing.
I knew a guy named Michael Mitchell when I was a kid. did you grow up near memphis.
@@DeathProofProductions ...na man, born and raised 47 years ago in Pittsburgh pa...
Do you have adjustable pushrods on this rig? I put a little spicier cam in mine last May and put in the adjustables in and what a time saver!
No this bike is my paint guys brothers, this will be the only mods he will do so we didn't do adjustable. He was just wanting a little more grunt for our trips out west.
Great video 👍
Thanks
Hey bubba I have an 08 softail 96ci that I recently acquired, got her runnin she idled fine turned it off now its dumping oil in the front cylinder so much so that when I lean the bike to the right it drips out the pipe... not to bother you brother but any information would be a huge help.
Is there oil on the spark plug.
@@DeathProofProductions Yes, oil and raw fuel
Do you have access to a compression gage. I bet you got a broke ring or a hole in the piston.
Anymore of that homemade brew?
No it's been awhile since I made some, been to busy.
How did you get the intake manifold back into the heads?
It's a little tricky, u just got to play with it on the late model twin cams.
Can you send me the info on getting my twin cam heads done by you guys , thanks for your time and help.
You talking about just the porting and polish.
Well done 👍
thanks
I noticed on my early model 2000 dyna manual it says to torque the head bolts to 84-108 in lbs then 144-168 followed my a 90 degree turn but for newer Dyna models 2006 and above the torquing is a bit different 120-144 in lbs then 15-17 ft lbs then a 90 degree turn is that an update or just for newer model dynas
Yeah I don't know why they do that I noticed when I worked at the dealership they changed all torque values up or down all the time. I use what I have had the best results over the past 27 years to run with.
@@DeathProofProductions great I’ll go off the 84-108 then 144-168 in lbs followed with a 90 degree thank you man I appreciate it
I’ve never done this to a Harley, air cooled VW but not a Harley. I have installed S&S gear drive cams in my 2000 FLSTS and Screaming Eagle cam kit with the orange cam plate and hydraulic tensioner in my 2004, FLHTCI.
All that said, do you need to remove the tappet covers to remove the cylinders?
No you can leave them on unless there weeping oil than it's a good time to replace the gaskets.
Hey man I’m getting ready to do this, can I ask for your help if need?? Or he’ll buy you a beer?!
If I can help you in any way just email me at the channels email.
@@DeathProofProductions thanks
It was a good video till the cloudy shine and the gay beer came out 🤣 just kidding killer walk thru man better than most I’ve seen for sure 👍🏻
It was cloudy it was kind off a rush distillation process the guy was coming to get the bike and wanted some Ozark shine. Normally I still it twice..
Thank you for all your videos!! Got a qck question could you talk about how to put in the wrist pin circlip? been at it for 2 days
Put one end in then using a small flathead screwdriver walk the other half in.
Duuuuude... I mean such a simple explanation and it f#$#%ing worked!!
Thank you
I had an exhaust stud break in the rear cylinder and had to tear into it. Is there a way to slide the cylinder onto the piston without taking it off the arm? I appreciate your content btw
I compress the rings with a ring compressor. Then I slide the cylinder over top of the piston and tap it on using the end of a hammer handle. Thanks for the compliment.
I was wondering if there’s a way I can reach you. After putting things back together I have smoke
Email me at davethom2004flstc@.gmail.com
I missed seeing you replace the compression release valve.??
That year didn't have them.
Just removed my cylinder head off because I cracked it trying to remove an exhaust stud my question is do I need to replace the cylinder studs I’ve look at the manual and it doesn’t say they are 1 time use so I’m trying to figure out whether they are reusable but I will be changing the female thread bolts that go onto the studs from the cylinder head
no your fine they can be reused, just make sure you tighten them like the service manual shows.
@@DeathProofProductions thank you
@@DeathProofProductionshey there again just had another question, I don’t need to worry about replacing the cylinder base o ring do I? I only took the head off not the cylinder.
What happens if you don’t gap the piston rings?
if its a freshly honed cylinder with new rings, then you have to make sure the rings are gaped correctly so the engine doesn't burn oil and loose compression. If its a high mile engine than you just check it, and if its out of spec than you bore it out.
Good to know. Thanks for the reply!
I assume you find it easier to put the piston in the cylinder first to be more beneficial?
Yes
@@DeathProofProductions I just took mine apart today. rockers, and heads are off. ;) On my way.. ;). Will slide the cylinders off tomorrow ;-)
Good deal, what all are you doing to it.
@@DeathProofProductions on my 14 StreetGlide I am doing a 107 big bore kit. tw555 cams. 10.25:1 pistons and new 2-1-2 exhaust. contemplating on head porting. Looking forward to a little extra giddy up.
If your doing all that I would definitely do heads as well, you will get the best out of everything your doing.
I'd like to get my twin cam heads done can you send me the info on getting my heads don.
Sorry for delay been tied up with this shoulder surgery. Watch my video on how to install cams 07-17 it has the info at the beginning.
no o-rings underneath the head gasket?
If your using part number 16787-99a or 16775-99b you don't use the o ring. They made that change around 2003.
@@DeathProofProductions according to the parts manual 16775-99b uses the o-rings. However after contacting harley seems that's correct you don't use those o-rings. Nice that they gave me the o rings when I picked up the head gaskets.
If I didn't live so far away, I'd bring you some work.
what area you live in.
@@DeathProofProductions - I'm in Texas.
what part
@@DeathProofProductions I'm North of Dallas County in a town called Plano.
hell i was in dallas last weekend watching the misfits concert. your not vary far. what projects you got going on .
Can you hydrolock head bolts
Not really, but you can do it to lots of other bolts. Ask me how I know
If you're going to do a how to video why don't you say what you're doing like when you're putting the lifters together. Stop trying to be a cowboy and explain what you're doing. I appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge but tell us exactly what you're doing, bro.
you talking about the way i keep the lifters in the case when installing the cam plate.
Let's go Brandon
wow made me cringe putting Loctite on dirty bolts with oil on them lol good luck
I cleaned the threads of the bolts before adding loctite. The Harley factory never told me when I was being certified by them that I had to clean the oil off the entire bolt for the loctite to work. They just trained me to clean the threads. That was back in 2002 so maybe things have changed since then. I would have filmed it but I figure if someone has enough skill to tear into the engine they have enough brains to clean the threads before applying loctite.
🍎 brandy... from north ga mts... Firm Handshakes 🤝