I think your passion for tree work is your biggest asset. It's more than just a job, it's a way of life. I've been doing tree work for about 20yrs and the guys that come through with a real passion for tree work are few and far between. Those are the guys we try to hold on to at our place. Just remain teachable, there's always something new to learn and every tree is different. Also, I recommend investing in some good carbide bits.
Back in the day when I used to play around with 2 stroke in outboards we would port the transfer ports higher mill the head down and run race fuel in it. We get 30-40% increase in power. Also played around with Nitrous oxide on some hill climbing bikes we blew up a few engines doing that.
I am truly a fan of u human! Bud u have been making great videos for awhile I’m a 9 year climber 14 years in tree service all around and it’s all I know but to see the love for the work you do shows through your videos.. we all come with a past of some sort but you made me a believer and pushed me through some hard times just showing your audience that look this is me who I am take it or leave it attitude but at the end of the day it might be a job to most but to a certain group of us who just don’t come to work for a paycheck it’s a way of life n it made me realize how much of my time is takin up by work come home fix this saw get this rope spliced make its do that to make tomorrow more enjoyable n u share tips n tricks with your own disclaimer lol just know bud you truly impacted my life in a great way ! Keep them videos coming n keep them tops flying climb safe brother
Woah, the timing will change when you take off material from the top and bottom. Sides only unless you get a degree wheel and take off only what is allowed. You may have gotten lucky on this round.
nice work. I love porting chainsaw cylinders. make sure you chamfer the ports when you're done so there's no sharp edges for the piston rings to get hung up on
I noticed a bit of a lip on the inside after porting it, took some scotch bright and knocked it down. Next time will take the tip and chamfer the edges. Thanks for the heads up =)
Pretty cool work man, very straight forward. Looks like you widened the exhaust port more than anything, and that will give it more flow potential, without changing the timing too much, or decreasing your trapped volume. If you change the port height you change the timing and decrease the trapped volume, but you do typically move the peak power higher in the rpm range. Most stuff in porting is a trade off, you gain this, but lose a little of that. Putting a chamfer, or tiny bevel, on the port windows after you do any modification can greatly increase you piston ring life too.
Went mostly on the sides, as you mentioned. Did some reading before attempting, am pretty happy with the outcome for a first time. I've been eyeballing the kits at www.ccspecialtytool.com/, bit pricey for something I won't be doing a whole lot of though. Perhaps in the future, can't really justify it now though.
I've found those 'ridges' you speak of to be present more often than not and oftentimes just OEM like that (I don't use stihl though in fact mostly low-end gear so less precision expected anyway) Am glad to see it go well but wish you'd timed your cuts beforehand, I've been using that (a 3-cut 'speed time', I do 2 or 3 timed attempts for a best time, it's the best benchmark I've found so far!) Will be doing an almost-identically invasive 'port job' on my lil 25cc today, also opening up its muffler (when choosing your cut spot(s), what consideration do you put into "crap getting into the engine"? No muffler would be 'optimal' so far as restrictions removed but, despite it still being a 1-way system, am guessing crap would get into the cylinder from the exposed port....I don't know how to best consider that when doing muffler :/ ) What fuel(s) are you using? I'm still unable to find when/where benefits in power are gained from using stronger fuels ie Stihl pre-mix instead of my usual ethanol-free generic....also have to imagine that gas//oil ratio would benefit from some tweaking at some point of modifications&fuel-improvement but not sure how much lower on oil% to go (I already have a 10% sway as I use 45:1 for everything since I've got many 40:1's and 50:1's and figured it worth seeing if 45:1 would be fine and it has been, will be ceasing that now though and using more precise mixes depending on which unit I'm fueling)
Is the 270/271 cheaper than the 260/261 in the US? The 27x seems like a heavier, detuned saw, spur sprocket, toolless bar tensioner (not a big fan, but that is subjective I guess). I've never held one in my hands, but had a few years with a 261 now. I'd trade the 261 for a husq 346xpg any day. The extra engine rpm is just amazing, and it lasts quiet a bit longer on the same amount of fuel. I'm curious - what saws do you run and what size bars? I'd be interested to know chain type too :-) Nice videos too!
The 261 is more expensive than the 271. 261 is a pro level saw, 271 is in there "farm/ranch" line. I have a video is which I compare the 261 to a 291 and show what the differences are between the pro saws and the consumer saws. Currently I'm running MS201T C-M, 16" bar MS261 C-M, 18" bar MS270, 18" bar MS440, 30" bar MS661 C-M, 36" bar "just bought this morning, I'll have a video of it up tomorrow night" The 201, 270, and 661 are my own, the 261 and 440 are the companies. We also have a couple more 201t's, some 290's for the ground guys, a 660, and an old 090.
Hey man! I don't catch all your videos but do when I can and really liking them keep up the good work! Just got my 038 super back togethe with a magnum top end some mild porting intake/exhaust/transfers but have to go pick up some parts lost the chain tensor so cant even test it out 🙄 have a run sxs with old man's ms290 vs 038 super stock and worn out 038. Same bars same chains was a interesting race now cant wait to drop it in some wood to break it in!
Just breaking into the bigger mods myself. Only advice I have that's worth a damn is don't try a mod for the first time on a saw you actually need to be reliable.
Good job for a first timer, it gives us amateurs and hobbists the incentive to do it too. By the way, that hammer and sickle tattoo is right where it belongs, in the armpit.
But it made more torque. Lots more torque. Which is what we're all after aren't we. So I would say that for a first go he did pretty good, and improved his saws output. Nobody and I mean nobody is born with a Dremel in their hand. We all have to start somewhere, and he has started here. And.. his saw makes more power. Result. Onwards and upwards he goes!
You said you'd only been working there about two months boss, how did you get into climbing and rigging so quickly?? Awesome vids btw, subscribed last night.
A little over 4 months now. I was a salesman at a Kubota/John Deere/Stihl dealer, and fell in love with chainsaws. Which led me to the other climbers on youtube, and I fell in love with climbing. As a salesman I worked with some of the tree guys in the area and talked my way on at T&L. As I find it a passion, I spend much of my off time studying, and or actually climbing/working on climbing, so I'm picking it up pretty quick. Didn't hurt that our second crews climber suddenly up and left to Minnesota. Leaving a vacant spot right about the time I was confident enough to work on my own. Glad you like the movies, I'll keep doing them as long as the job is worthy, nobody wants to see 5 hours of honeysuckle chopping, lol.
+Human That's an awesome story. I'm passionate about chainsaws and the fresh cut smell of trees and oil! I had an 880 magnum at one point with a 32" bar. Beast of a saw, made the body know you were using it. I'd love to get on a crew even as a ground guy. Love it. Love your passion, rock on Human
I did this to my MS880. It didn't do anything, but lost power. When I took it back to the dealer he said the warranty would have covered it, but I ruined the saw when I took a dremmel to the intake and exhaust. Too bad, it was only a week old. Stihl is a PoS! I'll never buy another that's for sure. $1,600 down the drain
Very nice job on the porting, great video! Can I ask you a video question please, how the videos are joined together when you are making the cuts with the freshly ported cylinders, you have 2 cameras, and what program or system is used? Thank you.
Yeah, most of the material I took away was on the sides, didn't want to do exactly what you're warning about. Mostly just polished the top and bottom to knock off any sharp corners from the casting process. Also didn't do anything with the transfer ports, need to do some more studying and get some more tools before I take that just.
The only way you change the port timing is if you raise the port roof at the port entry in the cylinder. As long as your away from the actual opening on the plane of the cylinder wall you WILL NOT change the port timing on any 2 stroke. I've built over 100 performance 2 stroke engines (mostly 2 stroke ATVs)
my thoughts exactly , the engine seemed reving without resistance ,, no real "bark" and grunt like i like to hear ,, or there are many different chains available (gauge, pitch, etc) that really let you get optimal cut. Not just the standard all-around chain most shops will sell ya , and even a stroke or two per tooth with a good file on chain fresh outta the package or off the roll seems to cut better. nothing i hate more than a saw that sounds whiny instead of barking when you make em bite :P ..... I spent many years falling with a saw in Nortern Alberta, with saws of all kind, some that weighed in pretty damn heavy ,,, IMO the saw is a given ,,,, the chain i have a lot of control over ,, just search "chainsaw chain chart" to see some of the options
Yeah man. The claws just get old sometimes, gotta switch it up a bit, keep it fresh. Working on making an adamantium chain right now, still don't have the science quite figured out though. Might just bite the bullet and try to get the Prof to look into it.
Human :) My first attempt at porting (1984 vw GTI throttle body retro fit) I found using a carbide bit on a dremel just didn't provide the torque needed but putting that same bit on a drill did the trick and took off a whole lot more material.
I personally have noticed that leaving intake port little rough on surface makes engine rev better, I just have one 26cc weedeater going in rc-boat. Changed carb from 40cc chainsaw, ported it, dropped cylinder 0.1mm, added nipple to crank case to get pressure for the fuel pump, dremeled the shit out of transfer ports just so that the piston ring stays together, changed ignition timing and chopped 0.1mm off from the exhaust side of the piston and also lightened it a little in a lathe. Oh yes and milled the pistons intake sleeve to match the intake manifold. Crazy engine..
I think your passion for tree work is your biggest asset. It's more than just a job, it's a way of life.
I've been doing tree work for about 20yrs and the guys that come through with a real passion for tree work are few and far between. Those are the guys we try to hold on to at our place. Just remain teachable, there's always something new to learn and every tree is different.
Also, I recommend investing in some good carbide bits.
Carbide bits? What are those sir?
@@PimSchouten they are the type of tips that you want for grinding. If you look it up, it will tell you in much better detail than I could.
Mr Magoo thank you very much sir
The way that last cookie zipped of the chain at the end really showed how much rpm that thing is really whipping out.
Back in the day when I used to play around with 2 stroke in outboards we would port the transfer ports higher mill the head down and run race fuel in it. We get 30-40% increase in power. Also played around with Nitrous oxide on some hill climbing bikes we blew up a few engines doing that.
I am truly a fan of u human! Bud u have been making great videos for awhile I’m a 9 year climber 14 years in tree service all around and it’s all I know but to see the love for the work you do shows through your videos.. we all come with a past of some sort but you made me a believer and pushed me through some hard times just showing your audience that look this is me who I am take it or leave it attitude but at the end of the day it might be a job to most but to a certain group of us who just don’t come to work for a paycheck it’s a way of life n it made me realize how much of my time is takin up by work come home fix this saw get this rope spliced make its do that to make tomorrow more enjoyable n u share tips n tricks with your own disclaimer lol just know bud you truly impacted my life in a great way ! Keep them videos coming n keep them tops flying climb safe brother
Woah, the timing will change when you take off material from the top and bottom. Sides only unless you get a degree wheel and take off only what is allowed. You may have gotten lucky on this round.
nice work. I love porting chainsaw cylinders. make sure you chamfer the ports when you're done so there's no sharp edges for the piston rings to get hung up on
I noticed a bit of a lip on the inside after porting it, took some scotch bright and knocked it down. Next time will take the tip and chamfer the edges. Thanks for the heads up =)
Friend, how best to position the L nozzle on the carburetor?
Remember kids, money DOES grow on trees. You just gotta climb up there and get it!!!
Pretty cool work man, very straight forward. Looks like you widened the exhaust port more than anything, and that will give it more flow potential, without changing the timing too much, or decreasing your trapped volume. If you change the port height you change the timing and decrease the trapped volume, but you do typically move the peak power higher in the rpm range. Most stuff in porting is a trade off, you gain this, but lose a little of that. Putting a chamfer, or tiny bevel, on the port windows after you do any modification can greatly increase you piston ring life too.
Went mostly on the sides, as you mentioned. Did some reading before attempting, am pretty happy with the outcome for a first time. I've been eyeballing the kits at www.ccspecialtytool.com/, bit pricey for something I won't be doing a whole lot of though. Perhaps in the future, can't really justify it now though.
@@Human1337 Friend, how best to position the L nozzle on the carburetor?
Could you feel the power gained from the porting?
Awesome video, I would like to do this to my stihl 461 .
I've found those 'ridges' you speak of to be present more often than not and oftentimes just OEM like that (I don't use stihl though in fact mostly low-end gear so less precision expected anyway) Am glad to see it go well but wish you'd timed your cuts beforehand, I've been using that (a 3-cut 'speed time', I do 2 or 3 timed attempts for a best time, it's the best benchmark I've found so far!) Will be doing an almost-identically invasive 'port job' on my lil 25cc today, also opening up its muffler (when choosing your cut spot(s), what consideration do you put into "crap getting into the engine"? No muffler would be 'optimal' so far as restrictions removed but, despite it still being a 1-way system, am guessing crap would get into the cylinder from the exposed port....I don't know how to best consider that when doing muffler :/ )
What fuel(s) are you using? I'm still unable to find when/where benefits in power are gained from using stronger fuels ie Stihl pre-mix instead of my usual ethanol-free generic....also have to imagine that gas//oil ratio would benefit from some tweaking at some point of modifications&fuel-improvement but not sure how much lower on oil% to go (I already have a 10% sway as I use 45:1 for everything since I've got many 40:1's and 50:1's and figured it worth seeing if 45:1 would be fine and it has been, will be ceasing that now though and using more precise mixes depending on which unit I'm fueling)
I have a Ms 180 but it doesn't have a case it's just a small motor in the middle of a plastic how do you do those
Is the 270/271 cheaper than the 260/261 in the US? The 27x seems like a heavier, detuned saw, spur sprocket, toolless bar tensioner (not a big fan, but that is subjective I guess). I've never held one in my hands, but had a few years with a 261 now. I'd trade the 261 for a husq 346xpg any day. The extra engine rpm is just amazing, and it lasts quiet a bit longer on the same amount of fuel. I'm curious - what saws do you run and what size bars? I'd be interested to know chain type too :-) Nice videos too!
The 261 is more expensive than the 271. 261 is a pro level saw, 271 is in there "farm/ranch" line. I have a video is which I compare the 261 to a 291 and show what the differences are between the pro saws and the consumer saws.
Currently I'm running
MS201T C-M, 16" bar
MS261 C-M, 18" bar
MS270, 18" bar
MS440, 30" bar
MS661 C-M, 36" bar "just bought this morning, I'll have a video of it up tomorrow night"
The 201, 270, and 661 are my own, the 261 and 440 are the companies. We also have a couple more 201t's, some 290's for the ground guys, a 660, and an old 090.
Hey man! I don't catch all your videos but do when I can and really liking them keep up the good work! Just got my 038 super back togethe with a magnum top end some mild porting intake/exhaust/transfers but have to go pick up some parts lost the chain tensor so cant even test it out 🙄 have a run sxs with old man's ms290 vs 038 super stock and worn out 038. Same bars same chains was a interesting race now cant wait to drop it in some wood to break it in!
Supermassive black hole! Or at least a little larger exhaust hole. Cool maybe I’ll do it to my saw.
Awesome vid short and to the point , gonna try this done a few muffler mods so far I haven't broke down to do major tweaks yet
Just breaking into the bigger mods myself. Only advice I have that's worth a damn is don't try a mod for the first time on a saw you actually need to be reliable.
Great job sir,cuts great.All I have are stihl chainsaws.
Good job for a first timer, it gives us amateurs and hobbists the incentive to do it too. By the way, that hammer and sickle tattoo is right where it belongs, in the armpit.
Yeah I mean it says a lot about someone who puts that commie trash on their body like wth!
Do you have the yellow dot full chisel chain or green dot on there?
Great to see you back in business and out of the wheel chair!
this is way before accident jackass
Do you have the time difference on cutting for the before and after?
@Camp'n Outdoors what did he do wrong?
@Camp'n Outdoors thanks for the insight, most people would spew bs but im happy you were actually helpful, thanks.
But it made more torque. Lots more torque. Which is what we're all after aren't we. So I would say that for a first go he did pretty good, and improved his saws output. Nobody and I mean nobody is born with a Dremel in their hand. We all have to start somewhere, and he has started here. And.. his saw makes more power. Result. Onwards and upwards he goes!
Awesome video, any differences and or notices LOL? I'm loving it LOL
Super tough to lock up, got a crap ton of torque.
You said you'd only been working there about two months boss, how did you get into climbing and rigging so quickly?? Awesome vids btw, subscribed last night.
A little over 4 months now. I was a salesman at a Kubota/John Deere/Stihl dealer, and fell in love with chainsaws. Which led me to the other climbers on youtube, and I fell in love with climbing. As a salesman I worked with some of the tree guys in the area and talked my way on at T&L. As I find it a passion, I spend much of my off time studying, and or actually climbing/working on climbing, so I'm picking it up pretty quick. Didn't hurt that our second crews climber suddenly up and left to Minnesota. Leaving a vacant spot right about the time I was confident enough to work on my own. Glad you like the movies, I'll keep doing them as long as the job is worthy, nobody wants to see 5 hours of honeysuckle chopping, lol.
+Human That's an awesome story. I'm passionate about chainsaws and the fresh cut smell of trees and oil! I had an 880 magnum at one point with a 32" bar. Beast of a saw, made the body know you were using it. I'd love to get on a crew even as a ground guy. Love it. Love your passion, rock on Human
Justin Church
You too man!
I have to try this! Thanks for the vid!
I did this to my MS880. It didn't do anything, but lost power. When I took it back to the dealer he said the warranty would have covered it, but I ruined the saw when I took a dremmel to the intake and exhaust. Too bad, it was only a week old. Stihl is a PoS! I'll never buy another that's for sure. $1,600 down the drain
@@FISHH00KSUnless you destroyed the saw you could get new parts to put it back to factory for minimal money compared to a 1600 pile of scrap
@@FISHH00KS stihl makes the best chainsaws. C-m's are amazing!
Did u do the transfers?? where's ur degree wheel? What were your starting and finishing #'s?
Very nice job on the porting, great video! Can I ask you a video question please, how the videos are joined together when you are making the cuts with the freshly ported cylinders, you have 2 cameras, and what program or system is used? Thank you.
I use Adobe premiere pro. Can adjust the size and cropping of each video to have multiple ones up on screen at the same time.
Human , what cameras ? thanks.
I've 2 gopros, a canon T5, and the camera on my phone. Mostly use the gopros though, easiest/fastest/most convenient.
you're only sposed to do the sides because you run risk of changing the timing on the top and bottom
Yeah, most of the material I took away was on the sides, didn't want to do exactly what you're warning about. Mostly just polished the top and bottom to knock off any sharp corners from the casting process. Also didn't do anything with the transfer ports, need to do some more studying and get some more tools before I take that just.
The only way you change the port timing is if you raise the port roof at the port entry in the cylinder. As long as your away from the actual opening on the plane of the cylinder wall you WILL NOT change the port timing on any 2 stroke. I've built over 100 performance 2 stroke engines (mostly 2 stroke ATVs)
U can mirror polish the exhaust side but not intake
Why not the intake?
The rakers could probably come down a littler to match the higher power. Saw would then be tuned to the chain.
I agree, I had just made that chain fresh as to get a good baseline. Rakers could be dropped quite a bit on that 18" bar I think.
my thoughts exactly , the engine seemed reving without resistance ,, no real "bark" and grunt like i like to hear ,, or there are many different chains available (gauge, pitch, etc) that really let you get optimal cut. Not just the standard all-around chain most shops will sell ya , and even a stroke or two per tooth with a good file on chain fresh outta the package or off the roll seems to cut better. nothing i hate more than a saw that sounds whiny instead of barking when you make em bite :P ..... I spent many years falling with a saw in Nortern Alberta, with saws of all kind, some that weighed in pretty damn heavy ,,, IMO the saw is a given ,,,, the chain i have a lot of control over ,, just search "chainsaw chain chart" to see some of the options
Did you do the exhaust
Yeah, it was in an earlier video
Mr RAGE
I didn't know wolverine uses a chainsaw
Yeah man. The claws just get old sometimes, gotta switch it up a bit, keep it fresh. Working on making an adamantium chain right now, still don't have the science quite figured out though. Might just bite the bullet and try to get the Prof to look into it.
Human :)
My first attempt at porting (1984 vw GTI throttle body retro fit) I found using a carbide bit on a dremel just didn't provide the torque needed but putting that same bit on a drill did the trick and took off a whole lot more material.
jbbolts
Nice, I'll have to try that. Thanks for the tip
Polish the exhaust ports not the intake. Fuel tends to drag on polished surfaces!
Yes indeed!
Wow nice to know thanks
Ever thought about doing the gulf ball effect on the intake side
I personally have noticed that leaving intake port little rough on surface makes engine rev better, I just have one 26cc weedeater going in rc-boat. Changed carb from 40cc chainsaw, ported it, dropped cylinder 0.1mm, added nipple to crank case to get pressure for the fuel pump, dremeled the shit out of transfer ports just so that the piston ring stays together, changed ignition timing and chopped 0.1mm off from the exhaust side of the piston and also lightened it a little in a lathe. Oh yes and milled the pistons intake sleeve to match the intake manifold. Crazy engine..
nice work
So, you got more hp ??
Yep
nice video and walk through. gonna have to try this on my 036 pro. need to rebuild it.
nicely done if you want to get into it more check out CC specialties
Gee.....thanks for that Mr. Reilly.....
You just took away my next couple paychecks, lol. =)
I cut my rakers off I cut it wide open
Port job should net you about a 1/8th of a horse. I've seen as good as a 1/4 horse gains.
I did a little ms 210c man and it's a cutter it might be faster than the 270
Do you have a hammer and sickle tattoo?
Yeah, and he has the iron cross
I noticed the commi tattoo as well🤦♂️
@@TheRoadhammer379 lol, what a pos
Interesting tattoo, big communist guy.
He also has an iron cross, does that make him a nazi too, moron.
Seems like you wasted your time and likely ruined your engine with no noticeable change in your saw.
Ten Millimeter do you know anything about engines
Your porting action was a bit x rated
That's just hogging out the exhaust....true porting does the intake, exhaust and top of piston......
Sometimes you dont need to grind alot. Sometimes you just dont need to touch certain port.