Haven't turned a pen yet (still saving for a lathe). Your videos have taught me a lot. I really can't wait to get started and just wanted to thank you for the inspiration to try something new. The information and techniques have been invaluable.
@@ChadSchimmel Seriously your crew is the best. Hey Chad question: I was making a Celtic knot pen and was doing pretty good until cut #4 and it blew up on me! it scared the crap out of me! I was using a chop saw with a plywood jig I made to hold the blank. I think maybe the teeth were too aggressive. I do have two chop saws so I thought I would just get a 10" fine tooth blade for one. BUT, in your opinion, what is the best option for making those cuts? Mini chop saw with a very fine blade? or a 10" fine toothed blade? I am focused on ease of use and clean cuts. Thanks Chad!
I needed to make a special pen for a friend who is celebrating a special birthday. She is very proud of her Welsh parentage and so I thought the Celtic knot would be perfect for her. I just wanted to say that I followed your guide and applied it to a Beaufort Ink pen kit and am really pleased with the results. I found a local supplier here in the UK for the compound laminate, which is 3mm thick, coincidentally the same width as the kerf left by my saw blade. I would definitely highlight to anyone thinking of trying this that it is really important to follow your instructions, and to also take some time to build the jig for the chop/mitre saw; it takes all the guesswork out of positioning the blank every time a cut is made, as well as making it safer, too. I have never done any laminating work before, so this is a first for me and I'm pleased with the way it has turned out. The compound laminate comes in lots of different colours but obviously most of it is covered up and gets chopped out under turning. I was hoping that some of the colour would survive the turning process, which it did and I am pleased to say that the finished piece has flecks of red around the edges of the segments. Thank you for a really informative video. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more.
Thats awesome! Thanks so much for giving that feedback and the tips as well! And I also post videos on my store youtube @TurnersTv if you want to also check that out. we are working on posting more turning videos there as well :-)
sure, when I do them now, I cut all the way through, it makes it easier, and yes round is fine, you just have to have each side marked well (its easier with square)
of you set the saw cut depth to allow a 1/16 remaining depth after the cut then you dont have to worry about re-claming and tryig to re-align cut sections.
I came across your channel a month or so ago and watched this celtic knot video. I watched it again to be sure I heard correctly what you said quite early in the video. You said that you did not think it mattered how thick the inlay material is as long as you reference the same end each time you cut the blank. I will give you that the one end, lets say the top for reference, of the knots will be in the same vertical position in the blank no matter what thickness inlay you use. But unless you use inlay material the same thickness as the saw kerf, each cut will stairstep the the thickness of the inlay plus or minus the thickness of the saw kerf. Example: The inlay material is 3 mm and the saw kerf is 2 mm. The second cut will result in the bottom half of the first inlay being moved down the blank 1 mm. The third cut will move the the first inlay another 1 mm down the blank (now 2 mm lower) and the the second inlay down1 mm lower. Make the fourth cut and the first inlay will be down 3 mm, second inlay down 2 mm, third inlay down 1 mm, with the fourth inlay where all the inlays should be to make the "perfect symmetrical knot". The thicker the inlay material the more offset the rings will be. Fine if that is the knot you are looking form go for it. With the looks of your demonstration knot your blade kerf is very close to the inlay thickness you are using. I can see where you can get the impression it shouldn't matter as long as you start the cut in the same position. I though that too until I tried it some time ago. To verify it I just finished a knot with not the same thickness inlay as the blade kerf and I'd consider it firewood. I would hate to have someone go down your suggested path to be disappointed with the results on a project piece. I did subscribe and look forward to your future videos. FYI
I am still looking for a supplier here in Australia. I prices Turners Warehouse $5 a sheet awesome I will get 2. Shipping $56. That stopped me in my tracks. Back to plastic cards. I could add aluminum easy enough. So I will have to make my own. Or keep looking for composite sheeting.
Dude ... dust mask! I get that you're filming, but that dust when you sand the insert flat is totally toxic, as is the acrylic blank dust. MASK! Should be using a mask anytime you sand acrylic, or metal for that matter. Now that I think about it, there are woods you shouldn't turn or sand without a mask. Cherry is pitchy. Exotics have all kinds of oils (that you actually have to clean with acetone before you glue them to anything else or they won't hold) that can't be good for the lungs. I see that you're all about safety when cutting and turning, but extend that to breathing. When you sand, I note that all of the dust comes toward you. Will be the same on the lathe.
@@ChadSchimmel Safety, you know. Some of those exotics as well as resin are extremely toxic. Might not have any bad effects now, but years from now ...
Thanks for a very clear explanation. Cutting all the way through was the cause of the misalignment.
Haven't turned a pen yet (still saving for a lathe). Your videos have taught me a lot. I really can't wait to get started and just wanted to thank you for the inspiration to try something new. The information and techniques have been invaluable.
Thanks so much,glad you like them
Turners Warehouse is AWESOME!
Thanks Mike!!
@@ChadSchimmel Seriously your crew is the best. Hey Chad question: I was making a Celtic knot pen and was doing pretty good until cut #4 and it blew up on me! it scared the crap out of me! I was using a chop saw with a plywood jig I made to hold the blank. I think maybe the teeth were too aggressive. I do have two chop saws so I thought I would just get a 10" fine tooth blade for one. BUT, in your opinion, what is the best option for making those cuts? Mini chop saw with a very fine blade? or a 10" fine toothed blade? I am focused on ease of use and clean cuts. Thanks Chad!
Great tutorial! Love the celtic knot design.
Thank you
I needed to make a special pen for a friend who is celebrating a special birthday. She is very proud of her Welsh parentage and so I thought the Celtic knot would be perfect for her. I just wanted to say that I followed your guide and applied it to a Beaufort Ink pen kit and am really pleased with the results. I found a local supplier here in the UK for the compound laminate, which is 3mm thick, coincidentally the same width as the kerf left by my saw blade. I would definitely highlight to anyone thinking of trying this that it is really important to follow your instructions, and to also take some time to build the jig for the chop/mitre saw; it takes all the guesswork out of positioning the blank every time a cut is made, as well as making it safer, too. I have never done any laminating work before, so this is a first for me and I'm pleased with the way it has turned out.
The compound laminate comes in lots of different colours but obviously most of it is covered up and gets chopped out under turning. I was hoping that some of the colour would survive the turning process, which it did and I am pleased to say that the finished piece has flecks of red around the edges of the segments.
Thank you for a really informative video. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more.
Thats awesome! Thanks so much for giving that feedback and the tips as well! And I also post videos on my store youtube @TurnersTv if you want to also check that out. we are working on posting more turning videos there as well :-)
I bought the 2mm and 3mm segmented material from y'all about 6 months ago and have made several celtic knots. looks great and very easy to work with
Great to hear, thank you
Awesome video And Yea! Wallstreet pen kit.
Right on!
Outstanding video! Thanks for all the info!
Thanks glad you enjoyed it.
That is a cool pattern 👍🏽yay
Thank you
Bravo
I made this , aluminium drinks can , black plastic from CD case ,,. Thanks for showing how to do this ,,. Stay safe,, Regards Alf
Can you insert a thick piece into any size cut? Can you use a round piece to start instead of a square? Thanks
sure, when I do them now, I cut all the way through, it makes it easier, and yes round is fine, you just have to have each side marked well (its easier with square)
Where did you get that sanding disc on the lathe and great tutorial!!
Can you do this method with a hardwood such as white oak or hickory?
sure, you can use what materials you like. The creativity is part of the fun!
Where did you get that sanding disc that connects to lathe? Do you sell that blank at Turners warehouse?
We should have that in stock at Turners and blanks that look similar
where did you get the alum.and black pieces
We sell them at a store I own, Turners Warehouse
I bought the 3 layer insert and it has a plastic film on it, does that need to be removed?
Yes the film should come off. Sorry for the delayed reply!! Hope it has worked out well for ya
You mentioned pvc plugs?
Thank you! where do you buy your aluminum foil? I can't find any.
all the supplies are in the description, here is the segmenting material www.turnerswarehouse.com/products/segmenting-material?variant=21749699838035
Where do I purchase materials
of you set the saw cut depth to allow a 1/16 remaining depth after the cut then you dont have to worry about re-claming and tryig to re-align cut sections.
thanks :-)
Did you use the 2mm or 3mm segment material
I came across your channel a month or so ago and watched this celtic knot video. I watched it again to be sure I heard correctly what you said quite early in the video. You said that you did not think it mattered how thick the inlay material is as long as you reference the same end each time you cut the blank. I will give you that the one end, lets say the top for reference, of the knots will be in the same vertical position in the blank no matter what thickness inlay you use. But unless you use inlay material the same thickness as the saw kerf, each cut will stairstep the the thickness of the inlay plus or minus the thickness of the saw kerf. Example: The inlay material is 3 mm and the saw kerf is 2 mm. The second cut will result in the bottom half of the first inlay being moved down the blank 1 mm. The third cut will move the the first inlay another 1 mm down the blank (now 2 mm lower) and the the second inlay down1 mm lower. Make the fourth cut and the first inlay will be down 3 mm, second inlay down 2 mm, third inlay down 1 mm, with the fourth inlay where all the inlays should be to make the "perfect symmetrical knot". The thicker the inlay material the more offset the rings will be. Fine if that is the knot you are looking form go for it. With the looks of your demonstration knot your blade kerf is very close to the inlay thickness you are using. I can see where you can get the impression it shouldn't matter as long as you start the cut in the same position. I though that too until I tried it some time ago. To verify it I just finished a knot with not the same thickness inlay as the blade kerf and I'd consider it firewood. I would hate to have someone go down your suggested path to be disappointed with the results on a project piece. I did subscribe and look forward to your future videos. FYI
Nice job. Why not use a wingnut instead of a wrench?
It would be better, I used only stuff I had on hand
I used a 6mm through-hole thumb nut on my jig.
Yeah
I am still looking for a supplier here in Australia. I prices Turners Warehouse $5 a sheet awesome I will get 2. Shipping $56. That stopped me in my tracks. Back to plastic cards. I could add aluminum easy enough. So I will have to make my own. Or keep looking for composite sheeting.
$50 shipping to Australia, what the heck???
Dude ... dust mask! I get that you're filming, but that dust when you sand the insert flat is totally toxic, as is the acrylic blank dust. MASK!
Should be using a mask anytime you sand acrylic, or metal for that matter. Now that I think about it, there are woods you shouldn't turn or sand without a mask. Cherry is pitchy. Exotics have all kinds of oils (that you actually have to clean with acetone before you glue them to anything else or they won't hold) that can't be good for the lungs. I see that you're all about safety when cutting and turning, but extend that to breathing. When you sand, I note that all of the dust comes toward you. Will be the same on the lathe.
totally true, thanks for looking out :-)
@@ChadSchimmel Safety, you know. Some of those exotics as well as resin are extremely toxic. Might not have any bad effects now, but years from now ...