I used 50V caps at 22,000uF with a much much lower ESR... but only rated to 85C. Another thing I tend to do when soldering caps is to do 1 leg on each cap, then come back for the 2nd leg after doing a different cap to ensure no heat damage.
@ 20:40 , Whatever you used to install those crimps onto the wire, that is not the proper crimp tool for those crimps. You need something more akin to a molex pin crimping tool, as it will properly bend the ears of the crimp over and into the wire instead of just smashing it flat, and it will do the same on the ears over the insulation on the wire. You really wouldn't even need to solder the crimp to the wire with the proper crimper.
Loved this build, thanks for uploading! The copper links you added make the centre rail, or zero voltage as I understand it. If you left them out, could you make two separate single rail power supplies?
Hello Sir, many thx for these great videos ! I aim to build one of these Nelson Pass camp amps and i am still puzzled by PSU in dual mono. I was wondering whether your drawing @ 30:23 was supplying for each of the 2 channels rails +18v/0/-18v or 2 times 0/+18V as your toroidal trafos seems not to be center-tapped. Have you implemented with succces this dual mono ? Thx in advance for your comment and keep on the inspiring audio implementations ! Thierry
The centre tap is after the rectifiers 0v DC. You could implemented in a 18/0/18 at the transformer if you tied both 0v at the transformer. I just chose to do it way as I had the parts to hand.
Can you add a link to where you got the hookup diagrams from? Hadn't seen those at the DIYAudio forums. They look helpful! Also, for the LED orientation, as I understand it, the long lead (anode) should be in the left pad for both LED2 and LED3? Because long lead goes to the more positive, which means positive on the V+ side, and GND on the V- side?
Thanks for all the great videos! I'm building an F5T and find this video on the DIYAudioStore PSU boards very helpful. I'm looking into the possibility of using the perforated aluminum risers they also sell to make a tunnel for my transformers. Would it be a bad idea to mount the PSU boards on top of this tunnel? Depending on the configuration I could have 2cm or 5cm of clearance between the transformers and the top of the tunnel, and 1cm or 4cm of clearance on the filter caps, ~6cm total vertical clearance either way. Is this a bad idea, maybe for thermal or interference reasons? Or do you think I should I give it a whack? Thanks again either way!
@@thediyaudioimplementers1826 Awesome, thanks! I need a few more bits and bobs from that store anyways so I think I'll go for it. Somebody also pointed me in the direction of the F5X which uses a similar configuration as well. Thanks again!
Some weeks I think...I was not using the amp for long periods though. But when it blew the amp was on for quite a few hours which I would think the temp was rising all the time until it went into meltdown .
I cant say there is a big improvement really, if there is, its only small. It was a cheaper solution over a 500VA at the time. I recall they were at a reduced price.
That's one crappy piece of solder work my man. You apply the solder much too soon, not giving the part the opportunity to heath. That is also the reason why you have to apply solder on both sides of the board. The decent way to do it, is to give enough heath to one side of the board so the solder floods trough the hole. The way you do this, makes unreliable joints.
@@thediyaudioimplementers1826 They "work" but they diodes that get mounted to heatsink's are way to close. I have a few for my Aleph amplifiers and they sure are a Pita to use.
Never tried these PCBs and I don't think I would. I prefer using larger can-type caps with screw terminals for the connectors (I used Evox Rifa PEH169 in an Aleph build). These caps can be directly bolted to an insulated plate. Connections feel really solid.
All of tightly spaced, higher wattage resistors grouped between the caps looks to be something that should be redesigned, or at least, make a note to stagger them at different heights off of the board to give them more breathing space. I am betting that board will have a nice burnt looking spot on it soon.
I used 50V caps at 22,000uF with a much much lower ESR... but only rated to 85C. Another thing I tend to do when soldering caps is to do 1 leg on each cap, then come back for the 2nd leg after doing a different cap to ensure no heat damage.
@ 20:40 , Whatever you used to install those crimps onto the wire, that is not the proper crimp tool for those crimps. You need something more akin to a molex pin crimping tool, as it will properly bend the ears of the crimp over and into the wire instead of just smashing it flat, and it will do the same on the ears over the insulation on the wire. You really wouldn't even need to solder the crimp to the wire with the proper crimper.
Thanks for posting! Enjoyed seeing your layout and parts choices! I've built a mini-aleph in the past but tempted by one of the first watt models.
Dear Sir I would like to know what transformer to replace the present transformer in order to operate at 230V.Thanks
Outstanding video! Neat work !
Entertaining and educational! Thank you sir!
Thank you for posting the build. I'm curious about the thermistor that is connected from the pcb to the chassis. Why is one needed there?
Loved this build, thanks for uploading! The copper links you added make the centre rail, or zero voltage as I understand it. If you left them out, could you make two separate single rail power supplies?
I believe this would mess up the grounding
Thanks for the great videos!
What is that clamshell AC cable you have called? I want to get one for my bench.
😃
Also, why the extra optional resistors in positions R_optional_3 and R_optional_4?
Ty for the video.
Hello Sir, many thx for these great videos ! I aim to build one of these Nelson Pass camp amps and i am still puzzled by PSU in dual mono. I was wondering whether your drawing @ 30:23 was supplying for each of the 2 channels rails +18v/0/-18v or 2 times 0/+18V as your toroidal trafos seems not to be center-tapped. Have you implemented with succces this dual mono ? Thx in advance for your comment and keep on the inspiring audio implementations ! Thierry
The centre tap is after the rectifiers 0v DC. You could implemented in a 18/0/18 at the transformer if you tied both 0v at the transformer. I just chose to do it way as I had the parts to hand.
Any help with 5he schematics,...andvwhat parts you need..and where did you got them from.? Thank you!
All the info is available here:- diyAudio Power Supply Circuit Board v3 illustrated build guide. I use Mouser/Farnell and RS for components.
Can you add a link to where you got the hookup diagrams from? Hadn't seen those at the DIYAudio forums. They look helpful! Also, for the LED orientation, as I understand it, the long lead (anode) should be in the left pad for both LED2 and LED3? Because long lead goes to the more positive, which means positive on the V+ side, and GND on the V- side?
There is no link. They are my own drawings. Sorry.
Thanks for all the great videos! I'm building an F5T and find this video on the DIYAudioStore PSU boards very helpful. I'm looking into the possibility of using the perforated aluminum risers they also sell to make a tunnel for my transformers. Would it be a bad idea to mount the PSU boards on top of this tunnel? Depending on the configuration I could have 2cm or 5cm of clearance between the transformers and the top of the tunnel, and 1cm or 4cm of clearance on the filter caps, ~6cm total vertical clearance either way. Is this a bad idea, maybe for thermal or interference reasons? Or do you think I should I give it a whack? Thanks again either way!
Apologies, I said aluminum but the risers are actually galvanized steel, I believe.
@@ph0enixr Give it a go, many have done exactly this and worked well for them. Good luck with the build...
@@thediyaudioimplementers1826 Awesome, thanks! I need a few more bits and bobs from that store anyways so I think I'll go for it. Somebody also pointed me in the direction of the F5X which uses a similar configuration as well. Thanks again!
Nice workmanship. How long was that spade connector in use before it failed?
Some weeks I think...I was not using the amp for long periods though. But when it blew the amp was on for quite a few hours which I would think the temp was rising all the time until it went into meltdown .
By using two transformers, do you notice a big improvement?
I cant say there is a big improvement really, if there is, its only small. It was a cheaper solution over a 500VA at the time. I recall they were at a reduced price.
@@thediyaudioimplementers1826 Thanks for your reply. What are the sonic differences between the F6 and the Aleph?
@@orioldepagesmoyes5978 The F6 is slightly more 'organic' sweeter sounding to my ears but very little between them overall. IMO
That's one crappy piece of solder work my man. You apply the solder much too soon, not giving the part the opportunity to heath. That is also the reason why you have to apply solder on both sides of the board. The decent way to do it, is to give enough heath to one side of the board so the solder floods trough the hole. The way you do this, makes unreliable joints.
Thanks for your comment….Ive never had a bad joint in 25 years.
no fuses huh
The only fuse is in the IEC none on the dc as per Nelson Pass design but you could put some in..
I have these ame PCB's and id have to say they are the worst PSU boards i have ever used ! What a crappy Design !
Not sure crappy describes them correctly, a quirky design and they do the job as intended.
@@thediyaudioimplementers1826 They "work" but they diodes that get mounted to heatsink's are way to close. I have a few for my Aleph amplifiers and they sure are a Pita to use.
Never tried these PCBs and I don't think I would. I prefer using larger can-type caps with screw terminals for the connectors (I used Evox Rifa PEH169 in an Aleph build). These caps can be directly bolted to an insulated plate. Connections feel really solid.
@@ssmith954 the Diodes are way to close and a really horrible design layout. Not recommended at all.
All of tightly spaced, higher wattage resistors grouped between the caps looks to be something that should be redesigned, or at least, make a note to stagger them at different heights off of the board to give them more breathing space. I am betting that board will have a nice burnt looking spot on it soon.