I doubt I'll make a how to. I probably just made this to show family. I don't even recall what I said in the video, but it a 12v "one wire", internally regulated alternator new from oreillys. Fits an old chevy truck. I tossed most of the old wires and the old regulator. The gauges are either automotive or replicas from ebay. They need 12v+, and 12v-...that's it. You can run power through a key or switch. What are you dealing with?
@@thuhintimidator I appreciate the reply and now understand reason for video. I am working on my 1974 Massey Fergurson 175 to fix my fuel gauge which I did but upon looking there was a red wire to from the oil pressure switch to the ammeter which was fried and then taped up! I just so happened to touch the wire on the alternator and it came off in my hand, it was stuck in but not crimped! So I went digging! Not much is hooked up the way my wiring diagram is! There was no ground from the oil gauge to the fuel tank screw, which I did install. My oil pressure switch has 3 flat prongs, 2 copper and one silver. The silver I assume is a ground? The replacements show only 2 flat prongs! According to diagram a pink 18ga wire runs from fuel gauge to oil pressure switch which I installed. And there is a pink 18ga wire that runs from Ammeter to oil pressure switch "terminal having adjustment set screw" which I don't have! It appears to be on the side from ammeter running with the wire going to alternator yellow and green wire. I dont know where to hook up pink wire from ammeter to oil pressure switch! I do not know much about wiring at all and I don't know if I have made any sense to you here!!! Any help of understanding would be appreciated! Windy
@@wc3033 I can relate. I had the intention of repairing mine the way it was originally...but when I pulled the cowlings off none of the wiring was like the original diagrams...tape everywhere...broken wires...colors don't match etc. I got so frustrated with the externally regulated system and the unnecessary complicated nature of it that I decided I could make more sense of it taking it all out and starting over. I might have spent $300 all together on the alternator, tachometer drive adapter and cable, gauges etc. And I ended up with a system I could figure out. I probably paid more for the aftermarket fuel gauge sending unit that would work with the fuel gauge...and I had to reverse the soldering connection inside the sending unit to get the right readings vs backwards readings...not as easy to demonstrate or explain...but it CAN be figured out. :) My advice depends on your goal. If you are going for factory original for a show tractor...I'm out, sorry. I don't understand it well enough. If you are going for simple, functional, select few gauges just to make sure your tractor is ok...then get rid of some of the factory stuff and use 12v automotive gauges. I did that for the oil pressure and water temperature. I used Equus gauges I think, amazon probably. Easy to wire from a cheap switch you can put in yourself that just runs to the battery. Simple and functional. I also did that for the battery voltage gauge...I got rid of the ammeter and went to voltmeter. Granted I did switch the alternator by that point...but if it will charge the battery on its own now, then just splice in the gauges you want and let it be. Lastly, a tidbit on some of your questions. Gauges with 3 prongs often had a ground, and power, and then a light bulb power. You can use test leads aka jumper wires to check the gauge prongs...have one go to ground and one go to 12v +...touch them to the gauge prongs in different orders till the gauge acts the right way. lots of sparks means those two prongs probably do the same thing (like one is 12v+ for the gauge and one is 12v + for the light bulb)...so the 3rd prong is probably ground. Newer gauges often have two or 3 prongs...one or two will be 12v +. Hope that helps. Electrical stuff is the worst...which is why I switched away completely from factory massey ferguson wiring minus the starter wiring.
@@wc3033 Not a lot of help or relevant info, but you are welcome. If you want more info for switching I can probably find the tachometer drive adapter and cable, plus gauges that I bought. I could link them somewhere or just pass on the info. Otherwise, best of luck to you. These old tractors are great...just old. :)
While I can appreciate your work, there is nothing to really see here! I really Needed to see how you rewired your gauges. Step by step! Oh well
I doubt I'll make a how to. I probably just made this to show family. I don't even recall what I said in the video, but it a 12v "one wire", internally regulated alternator new from oreillys. Fits an old chevy truck. I tossed most of the old wires and the old regulator. The gauges are either automotive or replicas from ebay. They need 12v+, and 12v-...that's it. You can run power through a key or switch.
What are you dealing with?
@@thuhintimidator I appreciate the reply and now understand reason for video. I am working on my 1974 Massey Fergurson 175 to fix my fuel gauge which I did but upon looking there was a red wire to from the oil pressure switch to the ammeter which was fried and then taped up! I just so happened to touch the wire on the alternator and it came off in my hand, it was stuck in but not crimped! So I went digging! Not much is hooked up the way my wiring diagram is! There was no ground from the oil gauge to the fuel tank screw, which I did install. My oil pressure switch has 3 flat prongs, 2 copper and one silver. The silver I assume is a ground? The replacements show only 2 flat prongs! According to diagram a pink 18ga wire runs from fuel gauge to oil pressure switch which I installed. And there is a pink 18ga wire that runs from Ammeter to oil pressure switch "terminal having adjustment set screw" which I don't have! It appears to be on the side from ammeter running with the wire going to alternator yellow and green wire. I dont know where to hook up pink wire from ammeter to oil pressure switch! I do not know much about wiring at all and I don't know if I have made any sense to you here!!!
Any help of understanding would be appreciated!
Windy
@@wc3033 I can relate. I had the intention of repairing mine the way it was originally...but when I pulled the cowlings off none of the wiring was like the original diagrams...tape everywhere...broken wires...colors don't match etc. I got so frustrated with the externally regulated system and the unnecessary complicated nature of it that I decided I could make more sense of it taking it all out and starting over. I might have spent $300 all together on the alternator, tachometer drive adapter and cable, gauges etc. And I ended up with a system I could figure out. I probably paid more for the aftermarket fuel gauge sending unit that would work with the fuel gauge...and I had to reverse the soldering connection inside the sending unit to get the right readings vs backwards readings...not as easy to demonstrate or explain...but it CAN be figured out. :)
My advice depends on your goal. If you are going for factory original for a show tractor...I'm out, sorry. I don't understand it well enough. If you are going for simple, functional, select few gauges just to make sure your tractor is ok...then get rid of some of the factory stuff and use 12v automotive gauges. I did that for the oil pressure and water temperature. I used Equus gauges I think, amazon probably. Easy to wire from a cheap switch you can put in yourself that just runs to the battery. Simple and functional. I also did that for the battery voltage gauge...I got rid of the ammeter and went to voltmeter. Granted I did switch the alternator by that point...but if it will charge the battery on its own now, then just splice in the gauges you want and let it be.
Lastly, a tidbit on some of your questions. Gauges with 3 prongs often had a ground, and power, and then a light bulb power. You can use test leads aka jumper wires to check the gauge prongs...have one go to ground and one go to 12v +...touch them to the gauge prongs in different orders till the gauge acts the right way. lots of sparks means those two prongs probably do the same thing (like one is 12v+ for the gauge and one is 12v + for the light bulb)...so the 3rd prong is probably ground. Newer gauges often have two or 3 prongs...one or two will be 12v +.
Hope that helps. Electrical stuff is the worst...which is why I switched away completely from factory massey ferguson wiring minus the starter wiring.
@@thuhintimidator Thank you for the information!
@@wc3033 Not a lot of help or relevant info, but you are welcome. If you want more info for switching I can probably find the tachometer drive adapter and cable, plus gauges that I bought. I could link them somewhere or just pass on the info. Otherwise, best of luck to you. These old tractors are great...just old. :)