Great fix on the new alternator, I have to say that neither of those belts look quite right, I think you're right when you say that it could rip the earth of its axis, please give us advance warning!! or get Rusty to bark a bit .... Great video, Ill have to look that other guy up on TH-cam ....... Good luck from Spain!!
Well done Elin!! It’s great that you have that other guy on TH-cam to help you!! You two would make a great team! Like having two people in one! Looking forward to the engine install. 👍
I learned a lot today watching this episode. Thank you for that. I agree with your reply in comments... where do you stop, an owner has to decide in many cases, that's enough or that's all I can afford even when you can see things that would be nice to do. The bell housing painting can't be seen by most onlookers, so it's a no go.
Looking good Elin, (I’m pretty positive your the only man I know that got a twin brother that’s actually a few years younger ha ha!) - Stay blessed buddy 🙏🖖
You should use permatex high tack on those cam plugs ,so thay do not leak i have gotten engines back from machine shop already installed plug and they have leaked ,it will give you piece of mind .
Brilliant Elin.. That was really interesting to see how you got that alternator to fit.. I seem to remember that once upon a time there was an alternator made that looked like the original dynamo. Don't know if they're available any longer, but if the owner is using the TR-4 regularly, it's probably easier to have a conversional alternator which will be far easier for a none specialist garage to replace/repair when the time comes provided they don't loose your AF/Metric fitting 😂..
They are expensive and as far as I know unreliable due to overheating. The dynamo casing does not allow for proper cooling. That info is from a few years ago so they might have improved it already, I don't know. But they are still expensive
@@RustyBeauties Indeed Elin.. I heard the same thing about the high cost, overheating and the subsequent unreliably .. I have always come from a 'practical' place rather than trying to fake originality ..
Hi Elin, couple of points. I have been told that the three bolts which fasten the dynamo/alternator bracket to the block run directly into a gallery, so was advised to use a sealer on the threads and also wire lock to prevent them vibrating loose with catastrophic fluid loss. To be honest I did not investigate, but followed the advice. Secondly, when I fitted the same rubber type of rear crankshaft seal, the instructions said to check the protrusion of the flywheel attachment bolts through the crank flange and to trim them flush to ensure there was no stick-out which could tear up the seal. Did you check that? My 4A had single-use stretch-bolts rather than the repeat use type with tab washers, so there could be a difference in length between the types. I am looking forward to the next episode when you put the completed engine and gearbox assembly back in the car, as I am pretty close to that step myself, so will be interested in the sequence you use for fitting the gearbox mount etc.
Hmm, I haven't checked those holes, but I am pretty sure I would have noticed if they were through. I chased the threads, so if my tap went all the way it was gonna be quite obvious. Yes, the instructions mention about that as the after market bolts vary in length, but the original ones fit well. The conversion seal and the original one mount the exact same way, so if the bolts worked well with the original they wouldn't interfere with the conversion either.
Elin did you (or the owner) consider going with a “narrow belt kit”? The advantages are replacement belts can be found in local auto part stores, and it puts a lot less strain the the water pump bearing.
No, I never thought of installing that kit on any of my TR3,4 engine rebuilds. Maybe in the future. The owner of this one already had the new pump with the wide pulley purchased anyway.
Hi Elin can you spin the front plate of the alternator round so the adjustment hole is closest to the block so the adjuster doesn’t have to go over the body of the alternator with the fixed hole in the alternator and the slotted part to the engine I seem to remember that’s how you changed which side of the engine the alternator mounted Mike
No, the whole front half of the alternator is one piece. It is not just a plate in the front. But it is not a big deal. I already modified the tensioner and it works great.
You take out the screws holding the two halves of the alternator together and clock the position relative to the back halve,either way sounds like you sorted it out👍
@@shaftbox I see what you mean. The mounting hole becomes a tensioner and vice versa. It might be possible even though one hole is threaded and one is not, which is not a big deal. But even if that is possible, the position of the "eye for the tensioner would be too close to the engine in a place where it won't help. I might show it in video
Is it possible that the bushing on the transmission gets pushed in beyond the bolt hole and when a bolt is inserted it would prevent the bushing from walking out?
That was probably the idea, but they gave up on it with the later transmissions for TR6, they don't have the bolt hole on the bellhousing. Also the available bushings now do not have the hole
When using a torque wrench it’s essential that the the bolt being torqued is not already tight , the torque wrench “must” be able to turn a significant amount before it clicks , i’ve often seen mechanics do bolts up with a power tool and when the torque wrench is applied it clicks straight away , in this case the bolt may already be overtightened . I have worked in a railway workshop where this has happened and in consequence a bolt has snapped and caused a derailment , be warned.
It would have been far easier to remake the mounting plate on the block by cutting the end tab and moving it forward to match the back mount on the alternator
True! But that would eliminate one of the 3 bolts holding the bracket to the block and even if I did that I would have made a long bolt for more rigidity. That wide belt is able to rip the earth off of its axis LOL
The belt on the TR4 is much wider than the TR6 and wouldn't fit in the original pulley of the alternator. It is true that the alternator will run slower with this pulley, but alternators produce more than enough power at much lower RPM and if the generator was producing somewhat enough with the RPM set by this pulley, that RPM will be more than sufficient fore the alternator.
I have been watching and have to say love it But please can we sorry u think about weight less and use the benefit of all the new improved parts you can get buy to up grade the car power and in result fit sound deeding to improve the cot pit have a look at the show king-dig design on discovery try and find the episode where he’s rebuilding a fibreglass Mercedes gullwing the car is just stunning but my point I up to dat but with all the benefits of Morden Materials If I had the opportunity I do it with a e type🎉 Thanks Peter Warwickshire uk
Elin, you need to give your overalls a wash. Not good to have grease and oil next to the skin as there is a risk of cancer in later life. As for the rest just keep doing what you do.
When dong work like that there is always something else that needs to be taken care of.... where do you stop? I had a chat with the owner about that. It is hard to decide how far to go. If it is my car, believe me, it will end up as a ground up restoration as one thing leads to another and.... you know how it works. If I clean and paint the bellhousing, the engine bay would look bad. If I clean and paint the engine bay then the exterior will spoil the look.... So we decided with the owner to draw a line and not go farther than where we are already.
Oh dear - you can get an alternator that has been installed into the original Dynamo casing. So preserving the original look. What a pity to spoil the originality.
There are 3 schools of owners, purists, practical and opportunists. Purists are obviously all for originality, the practical ones are like me, who would do minor improvements and re-designs in order to make their ride more comfortable and reliable without changing anything major on the car and finally the opportunists are the ones who would do all kinds of mods including engine swaps or converting their car to electric for example as long as at the end the car is still recognizable as whatever make and model it is. I think all 3 types deserve respect for their decision to belong to one of these groups as it takes a lot of knowledge and investment to restore their car the way they chose to. But being in one of these 3 groups doesn't make the other two groups wrong. I respect purists a lot and I respect the restomoders as well for their engineering and problem solving. So I expect also my decisions about my car and the decision of this car's owner to be respected. There is nothing wrong with installing a reliable alternator , which changes slightly a car that is not original anyway. The alternator that you are talking about is way more expensive than the TR6 alternator and from what I've heard (not first hand experience, so I might be wrong) they are unreliable as the dinamo case does not allow for proper cooling. I know someone, who had to return 2 of these as they failed. And it requires rewiring of the car anyway so the originality is still spoiled. But again, I would respect anyone's decision to go with it.
Thanks for your great videos. I am from Germany and own a TR4 which I wanna restore this beautiful car. Your videos help me a lot.
O yeah. I’m having a beer with you Elin! Looking forward to the install.
Thanks for the informative videos always look forward to them.
And there we have it. Absolute proof that Beer improves a strep throat.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for your videos. I re-learn so much watching you work. And I also learn all kinds of new tricks and tips!
Great fix on the new alternator, I have to say that neither of those belts look quite right, I think you're right when you say that it could rip the earth of its axis, please give us advance warning!! or get Rusty to bark a bit ....
Great video, Ill have to look that other guy up on TH-cam .......
Good luck from Spain!!
Well done Elin!! It’s great that you have that other guy on TH-cam to help you!! You two would make a great team! Like having two people in one! Looking forward to the engine install. 👍
It’s actually his twin brother although they’re a few years apart 😂🤣😂🤣
I learned a lot today watching this episode. Thank you for that. I agree with your reply in comments... where do you stop, an owner has to decide in many cases, that's enough or that's all I can afford even when you can see things that would be nice to do. The bell housing painting can't be seen by most
onlookers, so it's a no go.
It looks great and the colors mesh well.
I did! I did move my head to the left. LOL
LOL, I knew I wasn't the only one :)
The anticipation is growing.
This is exciting. 💯
Can't wait to see what it looks like in.
Thx elin
I promise: If I'll ever get the money for a car like that, you will get your fair share ... Great explanation in all detail in any of your vids, thx.
Rusty is magic. He keeps teleporting in your intro and outro.
Can Dave do that too?
Good job as usual
Looking good Elin, (I’m pretty positive your the only man I know that got a twin brother that’s actually a few years younger ha ha!) - Stay blessed buddy 🙏🖖
LOL
19mm=3/4” ha ! Still British!!
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
You should use permatex high tack on those cam plugs ,so thay do not leak i have gotten engines back from machine shop already installed plug and they have leaked ,it will give you piece of mind .
Brilliant Elin.. That was really interesting to see how you got that alternator to fit.. I seem to remember that once upon a time there was an alternator made that looked like the original dynamo. Don't know if they're available any longer, but if the owner is using the TR-4 regularly, it's probably easier to have a conversional alternator which will be far easier for a none specialist garage to replace/repair when the time comes provided they don't loose your AF/Metric fitting 😂..
They are expensive and as far as I know unreliable due to overheating. The dynamo casing does not allow for proper cooling. That info is from a few years ago so they might have improved it already, I don't know. But they are still expensive
@@RustyBeauties Indeed Elin.. I heard the same thing about the high cost, overheating and the subsequent unreliably .. I have always come from a 'practical' place rather than trying to fake originality ..
Hi Elin, couple of points. I have been told that the three bolts which fasten the dynamo/alternator bracket to the block run directly into a gallery, so was advised to use a sealer on the threads and also wire lock to prevent them vibrating loose with catastrophic fluid loss. To be honest I did not investigate, but followed the advice.
Secondly, when I fitted the same rubber type of rear crankshaft seal, the instructions said to check the protrusion of the flywheel attachment bolts through the crank flange and to trim them flush to ensure there was no stick-out which could tear up the seal. Did you check that? My 4A had single-use stretch-bolts rather than the repeat use type with tab washers, so there could be a difference in length between the types.
I am looking forward to the next episode when you put the completed engine and gearbox assembly back in the car, as I am pretty close to that step myself, so will be interested in the sequence you use for fitting the gearbox mount etc.
Hmm, I haven't checked those holes, but I am pretty sure I would have noticed if they were through. I chased the threads, so if my tap went all the way it was gonna be quite obvious.
Yes, the instructions mention about that as the after market bolts vary in length, but the original ones fit well. The conversion seal and the original one mount the exact same way, so if the bolts worked well with the original they wouldn't interfere with the conversion either.
Elin did you (or the owner) consider going with a “narrow belt kit”? The advantages are replacement belts can be found in local auto part stores, and it puts a lot less strain the the water pump bearing.
No, I never thought of installing that kit on any of my TR3,4 engine rebuilds. Maybe in the future. The owner of this one already had the new pump with the wide pulley purchased anyway.
Hi Elin can you spin the front plate of the alternator round so the adjustment hole is closest to the block so the adjuster doesn’t have to go over the body of the alternator with the fixed hole in the alternator and the slotted part to the engine I seem to remember that’s how you changed which side of the engine the alternator mounted
Mike
No, the whole front half of the alternator is one piece. It is not just a plate in the front. But it is not a big deal. I already modified the tensioner and it works great.
You take out the screws holding the two halves of the alternator together and clock the position relative to the back halve,either way sounds like you sorted it out👍
@@shaftbox I see what you mean. The mounting hole becomes a tensioner and vice versa. It might be possible even though one hole is threaded and one is not, which is not a big deal. But even if that is possible, the position of the "eye for the tensioner would be too close to the engine in a place where it won't help. I might show it in video
Is it possible that the bushing on the transmission gets pushed in beyond the bolt hole and when a bolt is inserted it would prevent the bushing from walking out?
That was probably the idea, but they gave up on it with the later transmissions for TR6, they don't have the bolt hole on the bellhousing. Also the available bushings now do not have the hole
When using a torque wrench it’s essential that the the bolt being torqued is not already tight , the torque wrench “must” be able to turn a significant amount before it clicks , i’ve often seen mechanics do bolts up with a power tool and when the torque wrench is applied it clicks straight away , in this case the bolt may already be overtightened .
I have worked in a railway workshop where this has happened and in consequence a bolt has snapped and caused a derailment , be warned.
It would have been far easier to remake the mounting plate on the block by cutting the end tab and moving it forward to match the back mount on the alternator
True! But that would eliminate one of the 3 bolts holding the bracket to the block and even if I did that I would have made a long bolt for more rigidity. That wide belt is able to rip the earth off of its axis LOL
Why change the pulley? Alternator will now turn less turns for every crank revolution?
The belt on the TR4 is much wider than the TR6 and wouldn't fit in the original pulley of the alternator. It is true that the alternator will run slower with this pulley, but alternators produce more than enough power at much lower RPM and if the generator was producing somewhat enough with the RPM set by this pulley, that RPM will be more than sufficient fore the alternator.
Yes. Thank you.
Not many car owners get a video record of the work done on their car. I think you should charge and extra $1000 for it!
I think that TH-cam guy's name is "Elaine"....
I have been watching and have to say love it
But please can we sorry u think about weight less and use the benefit of all the new improved parts you can get buy to up grade the car power and in result fit sound deeding to improve the cot pit have a look at the show king-dig design on discovery try and find the episode where he’s rebuilding a fibreglass Mercedes gullwing the car is just stunning but my point I up to dat but with all the benefits of Morden Materials
If I had the opportunity I do it with a e type🎉
Thanks Peter Warwickshire uk
Elin, you need to give your overalls a wash. Not good to have grease and oil next to the skin as there is a risk of cancer in later life. As for the rest just keep doing what you do.
Believe me, they get washed regularly. I have 4 pairs. But they all look like this even cleaned :) They are stained permanently.
The bellhousing spoils the look considering all your work cant it be cleaned painted too
When dong work like that there is always something else that needs to be taken care of.... where do you stop? I had a chat with the owner about that. It is hard to decide how far to go. If it is my car, believe me, it will end up as a ground up restoration as one thing leads to another and.... you know how it works. If I clean and paint the bellhousing, the engine bay would look bad. If I clean and paint the engine bay then the exterior will spoil the look.... So we decided with the owner to draw a line and not go farther than where we are already.
Oh dear - you can get an alternator that has been installed into the original Dynamo casing. So preserving the original look. What a pity to spoil the originality.
There are 3 schools of owners, purists, practical and opportunists. Purists are obviously all for originality, the practical ones are like me, who would do minor improvements and re-designs in order to make their ride more comfortable and reliable without changing anything major on the car and finally the opportunists are the ones who would do all kinds of mods including engine swaps or converting their car to electric for example as long as at the end the car is still recognizable as whatever make and model it is. I think all 3 types deserve respect for their decision to belong to one of these groups as it takes a lot of knowledge and investment to restore their car the way they chose to. But being in one of these 3 groups doesn't make the other two groups wrong. I respect purists a lot and I respect the restomoders as well for their engineering and problem solving. So I expect also my decisions about my car and the decision of this car's owner to be respected. There is nothing wrong with installing a reliable alternator , which changes slightly a car that is not original anyway.
The alternator that you are talking about is way more expensive than the TR6 alternator and from what I've heard (not first hand experience, so I might be wrong) they are unreliable as the dinamo case does not allow for proper cooling. I know someone, who had to return 2 of these as they failed. And it requires rewiring of the car anyway so the originality is still spoiled. But again, I would respect anyone's decision to go with it.