Just replaced the compressor in one of my Elements. Used Denso. Top bolt closest to driver side was the bear. Because the head got beat up a bit used it on passenger side during re-install. I also had the one 5.5 bolt strip…..what a pain. Your video was vital in getting the job done successfully and with minimal cursing. Thank you for , once again, a great video!!! Please keep making them!
omg my top pas side bolt stripped on my ac compresor. 20 years of salt riding played hell on my bolts. so dont panic. for anyone looking to solve this problem you can reach a sawzaw through the pas wheel area and i cut through the compressor housing and bolt.
Watched this video a few times and changed out my compressor last night, not as bad as I thought… the hardest part was drilling out the manifold on top of the air compressor. I was quoted $1800 and for under $400 in parts It was worth the couple of hours it took… thanks for making this video….
The only thing id add is by taking out the ac condenser fan its much easier to get to the top mounting bolts as well as remove your ac lines before removing the compressor. Especially if you are limited to basic tools and don’t have swivel sockets. Since your already disconnecting the electrical of the compressor all you have to do is remove the hood latch, loosen up the t-bar, and take off the expansion tank. Im always a fan of removing some easy components to put back than fight to reach hard to get bolts. Great video!
Thanks for making this vid. Liked and subbed. My 03 EX’s compressor is grinding and chattering now, and I’m fearing its impending demise. This video will be a great reference when I have to tackle the job.
I got quoted $1300 for a compressor replacement. No thank you. I've done the starter already and this looks to be about the same level of difficulty. I think the scariest part of this whole thing is drilling out those bolts because of the potential for spreading metal chips. Gonna attempt this myself.
@@clintsearcy3252 Did this job successfully yesterday. Couple of things to note. When I disconnected the first AC line from the compressor, there was still residual pressure in the line despite having brought it to an AC shop to get evacuated, not fun when you're lying on the ground. Safety squinters are a must when doing this step. I was able to get the two little bolts out successfully without stripping or breaking the heads off. I had them soaking in penetrating oil for a bit before loosening. Dropping the subframe wasn't that bad. Just gotta make sure you don't back out the rear bolts too much and that there's enough thread engagement to comfortably hold the subframe in place. I used a jackstand to support the weight on the front subframe.
Why didn’t you change the condenser also? I have experienced only changing the compressor then the metal shards from old compressor stuck in condenser, explodes new compressor. I change them both along with an accumulator.
I don't really think there were any metal shards in the system. The clutch went out. Since I've never opened a system like this before I figured I'd make it easy on myself.
Hi Clint. Love your content. My compressor is making a grinding noise. Had I watched your other video I would have tried replace the clutch but I already bought the compressor. I plan on doing it the hard way. Removing the front facia, radiator, condenser, fans. Plan on replacing all those parts in the process. What else would you recommend I replace while i have that access? It's an 04 with 165k. I'm usually a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but since I'm in deep I might as well.
If you drop the subframe, replacing the compressor is easy. Charging the system is not as tricky as the HVAC guys make it sound. The hard part is evacuating the Freon from the system but you can find a shop to do that.
@@clintsearcy3252 Hi Clint, Great videos! The compressor bolts are stuck. The main frame/sub frame bolt is also frozen. I decided to leave the compressor and removed the A/C clutch yesterday per your video. :).The friction plate was full of rust. The water pump is wobbly, so the removal is today. Because of the amount of noise, I'm thinking I should inspect the timing chain slack while I have it apart. I recently checked the oil screens, VTOC and by the tensioner but did not find any irregular sediment. There are no error codes, but the noise is bad enough that there could be a tensioner problem?? Maybe? Thanks!
Hi Clint, just wondering, can you please tell me the part number of the 10 mm bolts that you used where you replaced the 5.5 mm bolt? I will be doing the same job and I know that the inner 5.5 mm bolt is tight too. Because OEM said that I have to buy the whole compressor minus the clutch kit for about $400 coz they do not sell the 5.5 mm bolt nor that piece.
@@clintsearcy3252 Thanks man for the reply. Well, I would probably tackle the inner 5.5 mm bolt once I get the Ko-ken 5.5 mm Surface drive socket. I hate to round off the inner one, the outer one I got loosened it without any problem.
Nice job - a how-to video way overdue. I always thought that AC work was out of reach for DIY because pros usually need a licence on top of special equipment. But now, maybe not?
Glad it was helpful! Another option is to replace the compressor yourself and have the shop charge it. That way you avoid spending money on tools to might never need again or fiddling with gauges.
@@clintsearcy3252 That's a viable option and one I have considered but if there's still a leak, the shop wiill tack on more labour and potentially redo your compressor work or whatever else you replaced. Having a vacuum pump to test beforehand helps to confirm the system is tight and ready for the refrigerant but that's 90% of the cost right there. I hate paying mechanics labour for work I can do myself. That's why I did my own engine swap. Saved over $1000 in labour and tax.
Not all impacts are created equal and rust can make matters worse. If I were in your position I would switch to a big breaker bar. www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html?campaignid=17890471891&adsetid=146321468544&product=60819&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjwge2iBhBBEiwAfXDBRys85nUaFQtrIna4D7fKqS_B2_eGZmFcrJ8m7Zh63DPLvIe2pV8xVBoC3-gQAvD_BwE
Thanks for the response! I got it done with a torque wrench… although… now I have an issue because the subframe isn’t dropping the way it did in your video… should note that mine is a 2005, did they change something so that it’s harder to access now?
@@clintsearcy3252 I removed all the bolts, and the subframe went no where. I ended up giving up on the “easy way” and just went with the long route… taking off the front, radiator, a/c condenser, etc….
great video! i now know how to drop the subframe...and what to expect with the little 5mm...the pain of the hot sun.....and what new part to buy....and how much freon....to buy the vacuum.... and at the end i was jamming in cold air with you....good time!
Hey Clint the 10s17c compressor is the upgraded model that uses a piston mechanism. I have to do another replacement and was thinking of making the leap to the piston model. How has it been working for you? Is the clutch mechanism more robust than the original model?
@@clintsearcy3252 I ordered the 10 S style. It’s supposed to be the model that supplants the original one. Original design is the scroll design that fails and the replacement is the piston design
The starter took me about an hour and a half from the bottom and doesn't require vacuum pumps, gauges or Freon so I would say the compressor is a little harder to replace.
Burning question as I come to grips with my own failing A/C: These Hondas (back in the day) were factory filled with R134a (replaced R12) which has been phased out itself now. R134a is no longer readily avaiable so only shops have it for legal top-up service - here in Canada. Where did you get those cans of true R134a??
It’s a pain in the ass job. I’d just pay the pros. Honestly an element is very reliable and rarely will cost you a lot except if the AC fails. The servo or actuator motor ($100 from Honda) that switches the heat on or AC gets dirt in the gears and stops working. Blow them clean with a can of air every year or compressor.After while it will go bad. It’s up above the fuse box. If you have no heat you can actuate it by hand in an emergency. It’s a pain to replace because it’s hard to get the two or three 7 mm screws out. Just a FYI.
These are 20 year old cars and a lot depends on how they were maintained over the years. I've had to replace a ton of stuff on mine but I have seen others that have had almost nothing done to them and are just fine.
Just replaced the compressor in one of my Elements. Used Denso. Top bolt closest to driver side was the bear. Because the head got beat up a bit used it on passenger side during re-install. I also had the one 5.5 bolt strip…..what a pain. Your video was vital in getting the job done successfully and with minimal cursing. Thank you for , once again, a great video!!! Please keep making them!
Just did my 05, with your help! It was very easy, just keep it in steps and it was perfect! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
omg my top pas side bolt stripped on my ac compresor. 20 years of salt riding played hell on my bolts. so dont panic. for anyone looking to solve this problem you can reach a sawzaw through the pas wheel area and i cut through the compressor housing and bolt.
I feel for you guys up north!
Watched this video a few times and changed out my compressor last night, not as bad as I thought… the hardest part was drilling out the manifold on top of the air compressor. I was quoted $1800 and for under $400 in parts It was worth the couple of hours it took… thanks for making this video….
Cha-Ching!! I'm glad to hear this worked for you.
@@clintsearcy3252 now only if you had a video on replacing your expansion valve with that complete my dilemma lol…
The only thing id add is by taking out the ac condenser fan its much easier to get to the top mounting bolts as well as remove your ac lines before removing the compressor. Especially if you are limited to basic tools and don’t have swivel sockets. Since your already disconnecting the electrical of the compressor all you have to do is remove the hood latch, loosen up the t-bar, and take off the expansion tank. Im always a fan of removing some easy components to put back than fight to reach hard to get bolts. Great video!
Good tips. I agree totally with removing the lines before removing the compressor from the mount.
I just did my daughter's '05 Element using this procedure. Made it easy peasy! Thanks!
Excellent!
Man, I love the detail. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks again for another money saving intervention
Thanks!! Are you suffering from a dead AC?
Thanks for making this vid. Liked and subbed. My 03 EX’s compressor is grinding and chattering now, and I’m fearing its impending demise. This video will be a great reference when I have to tackle the job.
It's not as hard as it seems.
Dude…you’re the man! Loved this video. Working on the courage to do this one.
You can do it! Just set aside a Saturday and make sure you have your tools and freon.
Great video probably doing this job soon but I will just take it to a shop to get the vacuum and ac recharge done
Fantastic!
Eyyy wtf this channel is legit and you only have 1k subscribers?! Mind blown 🤯
Exactly!
great video like always and again Thank you for sending me the A/C pulley🔥🔥🥃
No problem 👍 Did you get the package?
@@clintsearcy3252 it should be here by Tuesday👍🏼
I got quoted $1300 for a compressor replacement. No thank you. I've done the starter already and this looks to be about the same level of difficulty. I think the scariest part of this whole thing is drilling out those bolts because of the potential for spreading metal chips. Gonna attempt this myself.
Let me know how it turns out.
@@clintsearcy3252 Did this job successfully yesterday. Couple of things to note. When I disconnected the first AC line from the compressor, there was still residual pressure in the line despite having brought it to an AC shop to get evacuated, not fun when you're lying on the ground. Safety squinters are a must when doing this step. I was able to get the two little bolts out successfully without stripping or breaking the heads off. I had them soaking in penetrating oil for a bit before loosening. Dropping the subframe wasn't that bad. Just gotta make sure you don't back out the rear bolts too much and that there's enough thread engagement to comfortably hold the subframe in place. I used a jackstand to support the weight on the front subframe.
@@clintsearcy3252 With that said, thank you very much for this video! Immensely helpful.
Why didn’t you change the condenser also?
I have experienced only changing the compressor then the metal shards from old compressor stuck in condenser, explodes new compressor. I change them both along with an accumulator.
I don't really think there were any metal shards in the system. The clutch went out. Since I've never opened a system like this before I figured I'd make it easy on myself.
Hopefully you reply! What about back flushing the condenser? Wouldn’t that flush out any metal that might be in there?
Yeah. Typically those need to be replaced to warrant the new compressor.
Hi Clint. Love your content. My compressor is making a grinding noise. Had I watched your other video I would have tried replace the clutch but I already bought the compressor. I plan on doing it the hard way. Removing the front facia, radiator, condenser, fans. Plan on replacing all those parts in the process. What else would you recommend I replace while i have that access? It's an 04 with 165k. I'm usually a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but since I'm in deep I might as well.
All I have replaced is the compressor and the hose. The rest I'll replace when they fail.
Nice work Clint! That was well worth the $1100 savings. When ours quits working, I will probably give it a shot now that I have seen what is involved.
If you drop the subframe, replacing the compressor is easy. Charging the system is not as tricky as the HVAC guys make it sound. The hard part is evacuating the Freon from the system but you can find a shop to do that.
Thank you for the video.... great job.
Thank you too!
Took me bout 3 hrs on my 03 accord v6 long vacuum
Did you do it from below or above?
@@clintsearcy3252 above removed alternator
Clint, If I remove the PS pump and alternator, couldn't it be lifted straight out?
I can't say. I've never tried it. Plus I think getting the lines off is easier from the underside.
@@clintsearcy3252 Agreed, it's top and bottom.
Thanks! Dont we need to add 4.5oz of pag to the compressor?
This one came with the oil already in it.
Clint, how would you handle it, if the four bottom bolts were rusted in?
The sub frame bolts or the bolts holding in the compressor?
@@clintsearcy3252 Hi Clint, Great videos! The compressor bolts are stuck. The main frame/sub frame bolt is also frozen. I decided to leave the compressor and removed the A/C clutch yesterday per your video. :).The friction plate was full of rust. The water pump is wobbly, so the removal is today. Because of the amount of noise, I'm thinking I should inspect the timing chain slack while I have it apart. I recently checked the oil screens, VTOC and by the tensioner but did not find any irregular sediment. There are no error codes, but the noise is bad enough that there could be a tensioner problem?? Maybe? Thanks!
Hi Clint, just wondering, can you please tell me the part number of the 10 mm bolts that you used where you replaced the 5.5 mm bolt? I will be doing the same job and I know that the inner 5.5 mm bolt is tight too. Because OEM said that I have to buy the whole compressor minus the clutch kit for about $400 coz they do not sell the 5.5 mm bolt nor that piece.
I don't really have a part number for the bolts I used. I just looked around in my bolt bucket till I found one that works.
@@clintsearcy3252 Thanks man for the reply. Well, I would probably tackle the inner 5.5 mm bolt once I get the
Ko-ken 5.5 mm Surface drive socket. I hate to round off the inner one, the outer one I got loosened it without any problem.
Nice job - a how-to video way overdue. I always thought that AC work was out of reach for DIY because pros usually need a licence on top of special equipment. But now, maybe not?
Glad it was helpful! Another option is to replace the compressor yourself and have the shop charge it. That way you avoid spending money on tools to might never need again or fiddling with gauges.
@@clintsearcy3252 That's a viable option and one I have considered but if there's still a leak, the shop wiill tack on more labour and potentially redo your compressor work or whatever else you replaced. Having a vacuum pump to test beforehand helps to confirm the system is tight and ready for the refrigerant but that's 90% of the cost right there. I hate paying mechanics labour for work I can do myself. That's why I did my own engine swap. Saved over $1000 in labour and tax.
Hi thanks for the great tutorial. 1100 labor can't be accepted. My honda accord shows some.bad symptoms. I will refer to your work.when it fails
What year is your accord? I used to have a 97.
My front motor mount will not budge with my impact wrench, and I PB blasted the heck out of it… any suggestions?
Not all impacts are created equal and rust can make matters worse. If I were in your position I would switch to a big breaker bar.
www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html?campaignid=17890471891&adsetid=146321468544&product=60819&store=&gclid=CjwKCAjwge2iBhBBEiwAfXDBRys85nUaFQtrIna4D7fKqS_B2_eGZmFcrJ8m7Zh63DPLvIe2pV8xVBoC3-gQAvD_BwE
Thanks for the response! I got it done with a torque wrench… although… now I have an issue because the subframe isn’t dropping the way it did in your video… should note that mine is a 2005, did they change something so that it’s harder to access now?
@@DS-vs6jw not that I know of. Did you loosen the rear bolt and remove the front bolts?
@@clintsearcy3252 I removed all the bolts, and the subframe went no where. I ended up giving up on the “easy way” and just went with the long route… taking off the front, radiator, a/c condenser, etc….
@@DS-vs6jw Could not you have just removed the PS pump and Alternator and lifted it out?
Did you have to replace the AC Condenser? I have to do the exact job on my 07 element EX and I'm debating if I should replace the AC Condenser.
I didn't replace the condenser. Lots of shops recommend you do so but I think that's being overly cautious.
great video! i now know how to drop the subframe...and what to expect with the little 5mm...the pain of the hot sun.....and what new part to buy....and how much freon....to buy the vacuum.... and at the end i was jamming in cold air with you....good time!
That's great to hear. Thank you so much.
Hey Clint the 10s17c compressor is the upgraded model that uses a piston mechanism. I have to do another replacement and was thinking of making the leap to the piston model. How has it been working for you?
Is the clutch mechanism more robust than the original model?
wait i'm wrong. backwards. you got another scroll type model. damnit.
The one I installed is the OEM Denso unit. I figure if it's good for 300,000 miles that's what I would go with.
@@clintsearcy3252 I ordered the 10 S style. It’s supposed to be the model that supplants the original one. Original design is the scroll design that fails and the replacement is the piston design
So what’s worse to install ac compressor or starter?
The starter took me about an hour and a half from the bottom and doesn't require vacuum pumps, gauges or Freon so I would say the compressor is a little harder to replace.
Burning question as I come to grips with my own failing A/C: These Hondas (back in the day) were factory filled with R134a (replaced R12) which has been phased out itself now. R134a is no longer readily avaiable so only shops have it for legal top-up service - here in Canada. Where did you get those cans of true R134a??
I just walked into AutoZone and bought it off the shelf.
@@clintsearcy3252 Dang! Costs me over $60 CDN to ship a can of that from somewhere in the US through eBay. WTF?
@@canuckfixit7722 that's the price you pay for all those free goodies up there in the great white north!
It’s a pain in the ass job. I’d just pay the pros. Honestly an element is very reliable and rarely will cost you a lot except if the AC fails. The servo or actuator motor ($100 from Honda) that switches the heat on or AC gets dirt in the gears and stops working. Blow them clean with a can of air every year or compressor.After while it will go bad. It’s up above the fuse box. If you have no heat you can actuate it by hand in an emergency. It’s a pain to replace because it’s hard to get the two or three 7 mm screws out. Just a FYI.
These are 20 year old cars and a lot depends on how they were maintained over the years. I've had to replace a ton of stuff on mine but I have seen others that have had almost nothing done to them and are just fine.
Harbor freight has good vacuum pump
Good to know. And AutoZone has the gauges set on the loaner tool list.
Curios if I need car running to drain freon as my serpentine belt broke . Thoughts anyone ? Ty
Nope, no need to run the ran to drain the Freon
@@clintsearcy3252 cheers!
"Hotter than Satans Taint!" HAHAHA!
I can not over stress this... it was hot.
Where did you buy yours from ?
Rock Auto
How long did this repair take you?
I'd say I spent about 2 hours swapping the compressor. Then another hour pulling the vacuum and charging the system.
Super illegal to just let the refrigerant out like that
I didn't let the refrigerant out. The shop collected it.
Way to much editing
What do you think should have been included that wasn't?