Thank you .I've watched a few videos from other sites, you have actually shown how the bell cover separates. So many have skipped that part which renders the entire video usless if you can't mount the thing. We'll done. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Few comments. First, the transformers sold today will work. Second the adapter at the chime is not needed with the doorbell 2 and other models. Third, you need to see if your chime is mechanical or digital. If you don't see the metal strike for the chime, you'll likely need the diode (read the instructions on this one). Finally, if you have an Echo or Alexa device, skip the Ring-brand doorbell chime for upstairs or other locations. You can add the Ring skill to Alexa and then it can either play the doorbell chime on any Alexa device, if you want, or I created a voice announcement, "Someone is at the front door." You can then also do it with Ring cameras, "Motion detected in ___ room," or similar. I had a Ring Chime Pro and then tossed it in a drawer once I realized the Echo did it all. Plus I don't have the Wifi 'noise traffic' a Pro extender creates. (There's two chime models: pro and standard. Pro is a wifi extender) OK, one more comment, you can also stack 2 of the adapters. If you noticed, Dustin shows the adapter that tilts forward, and then another one that tilts upward. Ring gives you longer screws to be used for up to 2 stacked adapters. So, you can angle forward and up. However, it's not recommended to use a 3rd and you'd have to buy it seperately anyway.
I can't thank you enough for this video, it was fantastic. I just installed my Ring doorbell with your excellent help. I would only add that you'll need the QR code from the device to activate the doorbell, so install the app on your phone first - easier to scan the QR code before the device is installed. MANY THANKS for your excellen help!
THANK YOU SOO MUCH!! you went over the everything we need to know. other videos left the box that connects to the actual doorbell. I'm not sure i would've paid attention to the orientation of ring and probably would've had to turn it upside down. even letting us know not to let the wires touch - GREAT GUIDANCE. def giving you a follow
This was the most useful video on installing a wired Ring doorbell that I've found on YT. Even though it may seem like a minor point, I like the fact that you reminded folks to be sure to put the mounting screws in at a slight angle if they're going to use the adapter plate that turns the Ring a number of degrees to the side, as was the case in your installation. Had I not seen this video, I probably would have put the screws straight in, thus causing a problem when I went to put the cover plate on. Thanks for posting such a good video.
Thank you for your video. I watched the stuff from RING and a few other before I found yours. Your video was the most complete and useful. I watched it a few times before I even opened the box and then had it open while I installed it in case I missed something and got stuck. It was very useful.
Great video. Can you make one showing your install of the low voltage circuit for those that don't have existing wires. I'm running on batteries and would like something permanent. Thank you again for your videos.
It's super easy. You need an AC transformer something between I don't remember the exact range but between 12 and 24 volts works great. Hope the transformer up to 120 volts to power it and then you just need 18/2 wire to go from the transformer to the doorbell and you're good to go
Most times when it's old work Ill put a 2gang old work cut in or smart box in the wall underneath a switch (100% absolutely make sure that the transformer fits inside of the box you pick out, and that the box fits inside of the wall cavity. I have made that mistake on my first ring install and I was pissed since I didn't have anything else . I'll run 14/ 2 from the switch to my new 2gang box and 18/2 from my two gang box to my doorbell. The transformer will go inside of the 2 gang box with a blank cover on it
Ditto. I’m in a 95-ish year old house with brick on the front that has never had a doorbell. So I’m curious about not only the installation of the complete system but fishing the wire with brick. Is there a wireless version? Maybe that would be easier.
@@RJR5243 Thanks for the idea, but my main entrance is under roof on the north side of the house. I think, after looking, that one of the battery powered options is my best way to go. Still wouldn’t mind seeing an installation from scratch- especially fishing the wires through/behind brick. It would be good info in case I decide to go that route. Maybe it’s not that practical, though. 🤷♂️
Be advised some video doorbells require larger transformers. I’ve had to upgrade some chime transformer that were only 10va to 30va to get, I think it was a Nest, to work properly.
Ive had the same issue when I first did one. You dont even find that you need a 30kva untill the very back of the Ring instruction manual under troubleshooting. The ring actually burnt up a 10va transformer
Was going to post saying the same thing. I'd replace the 10VA transformers on any new install, it's $20. If you have problems and contact support, one of the first things they want to validate is the power supply. And the existing transformer is likely as old as the house.
The Nest is a pain in the.... I've had to change out the transformer AND the old bell wires to get them to work. AND for some reason, if you have the Nest Thermostat, the doorbell has to pair with that to finish setting up. If your doorbell and thermostat are too far apart....you're screwed. Ring is good though, no complaints.
Definitely with the ring pro needed to upgrade my transformer to 30va. And further depending on the vintage your wiring might not support the current for that. I had voltage errors on my ring even after upgrading it. Turns out when my house was built they ran a standard Ethernet cable from the transformer in the garage to the chime to the bell button at the door and split the cable in the middle at the chime to make the additional pairs - super tiny gauge wires. Ring's tech support advised me to double up the pairs on each side to carry the extra current but took a fair bit of detective work with a toner to figure out how it was wired to begin with. Once the aha light bulb went off a quick diagram of what actually went to what from where made it easy to do what Ring was suggesting and it's worked perfect ever since, but definitely not the easy install and you're done shown here unfortunately. In an ideal world I would have been able to run new doorbell wire but the way my home is that simply was not practical. Just know the wired smart doorbells can turn into more of a project than you'd expect..
EXCELLENT VIDEO>... The BEST I have seen yet... Now I won't be so scared to do this... Thank you for sharing this great video... NOTE: The background noise/music is unnecessary... it just gets in the way of hearing you talk. All we want to do is HEAR YOU TALK...
I like to put some scotch 2228 moisture sealing electrical tape over the terminals especially if there's aluminum siding your installing it on or flashing for a door. I find it helps keep the moisture at bay from corroding the terminals as you find with most 10 plus year old push buttons and being the reason they commonly fail.
In my experience, you want to check for compatibility of the existing chime with the model of video doorbell first. I've followed Amazon installers and homeowners to get these things working. I've had to install a diode, upgrade Xfmrs to 30Volt Amp, replace chimes, and cut out plastic J boxes that house the xfmr behind an electronic chime to make room for the larger xfmr. The bigger xfmr is sometimes needed to provide sufficient power needed to ring the chime and, drive the video.
As a life long electrician usually not allow to cut parts of flimsy electrical boxes. At a continuimg education class guy from UL stated that even though every sparky has made a knockout in a PVC box to extend a circuit its not legal. Have to ne extra carefull and cover your butt due to some sum bag ambulance chasing lawyers who would sue their own mother. Had bosses that wanted me to do serious violations. Told them to please placebitbin writing and I want a witness to sign it so I could cover my own butt. They always backed down.
You totally skipped over the part I needed to watch - how you connect the wires to the current (old) chime. I’ve done this but do not get any chime from it when the Ring doorbell is pressed. 😕😕
I work for a home security company and I install about a hundred doorbell cams a year. The old cams we had only required 12-24vac and worked fine on the 16vac/10va transformers but the new ones require 1 amp of power and need the 16vac/30va transformers. I’m not a licensed electrician so I have to tell customers to get the transformer replaced by a pro even tho it’s easy enough for me I can’t take on the liability. Otherwise we have to bypass a transformer to run a wire to a plug in transformer to a receptacle. (Which I think looks ghetto but I can only do so much, I always recommend to get the transformer replaced, but some customers are too cheap) You should show how to swap a transformer or how a dual button system or dual chime box works too.
Common places it find the transformer is in the basement, attic, garage, entry closet, hall closet, furnace closet, utility room, and when you’re all out of places to look, check behind the chime box. Lots of newer houses use a double gang box behind the chime and stuff a transformer in it. I’m curious where else have you guys found transformers? When all else fails I have to fish an 18/2 wire to the nearest receptacle into a plug-in transformer. But you’ll need that chime extender.
I was hoping you would show more about the installation of the doorbell wiring and the transformer. For the life of me, I couldn't find the transformer in my condo, but I finally found in a box in the wall behind the doorbell chime. I'm pretty sure it's not up to code, but I can't find an electrician to touch it, and I'm not sure how easy it would be to move the transformer to another location and pull new doorbell wiring. Signed, an IT guy who has enjoyed learning electrical from your videos
Two questions: 1. What does the power pack actually do? 2. If the doorbell button simply closes a circuit, then how does the Ring button get its DC power?
It definitely depends there is so many different possibilities with parts combinations but just make sure at least it is GFCI protected and is weather and tamper resistant if it's below 6'7" if above it can be non tamper as for the cover 18" or more of over hang eve or porch it can be a flapper cover if less bubble style of your choice also weather caulking the top of the box if bell box is a good idea@@jemmadraper5900
I had the same problem ~~~~~The guy who installed the doorbell transformer when our house was built was too lazy to write "doorbell" on the electric service panel. So, just today (since our new Ring is supposed to be delivered tomorrow), I had to have my wife stand outside the front door (while we were using our cell phones as walkie-talkies) and as I turned off one breaker at a time, I told her (via cell phone) to ring the doorbell. When, after turning about 10 breakers off and on again, the door bell went silent, I then knew which breaker controlled the doorbell transformer. In my case, it's the same breaker that controls the hard wired smoke detectors. It'd be a lot easier if the electrician would have written "doorbell" on the service panel door, but, all in all, the walkie talkie method wasn't hard. I just had to re-set the time on the microwave and one alarm clock - which happens anyway when we occasionally get power outages. Of course, a more drastic step would be to turn off the main breaker. Then, for sure, you'd have a number of clocks, etc., to re-set. The one-breaker-at-a-time method only took me about 5 minutes, tops. Hope this helps.
Just an FYI. The reason your screws aren't flush on the angle bracket is you've got the bracket on the wrong way. The flat part should be on the wall with the open side exposed. They don't tell you that on the included instructions.
In this particular video the installer shows the angle bracket mounted with the exposed side facing in too the building and the flat side out. Which is it and does it really matter
After looking at the video a few times it is kind of deceiving. At 3:45 it looks like the angle bracket is exposed side facing into the house . Then at around 4:06 it almost looks like there is 2 parts to the bracket and the flat side is flush to the house. Deceiving.
@allenandlaurendarie5607 just pointing it out. I have the same unit and it does matter if details are important. In person you will feel the ring rock on the screws because they aren't flush. I found this out when I installed it.
... 4:40 ... I checked my typical/original doorbell to be sure it worked before installing the RING as you did. The doorbell chime is not working. The part at 4:40 IS needed to make the chime function? Thank you. . Jeff .
Thank you, beautifully explained. You missed how to connect the power pack to an already existing chime. Is it mandatory? What if i dont do it? How do I connect it?
Great video. We didn't see you go to the breaker box to switch off breaker. Is that necessary or just more of belts and suspenders type precaution? Thanks
I didn't switch anything off, no problems. Also, I tried the Ring w/o the power pack and it worked but the motion sensor was erratic and a dull hum could be heard from the chime box. Installed the power pack (just loosened the two screws and slid the connectors in, didn't turn off breakers). Everything works perfectly.
One tip distin is to add the ring pro transformer because usually the transformer the people have is only a 10v. And the ring needs atleast a 16v but the universal trans they sell at home depot offers the 16-24v. But not the VA required so I have found you need to use the ring trans it will give you the required VA. 👍
Good info. My Nest hardwired just crapped out and unfortunately Nest/Google doesn’t support them anymore. So sadly I need to replace it. This seems way too easy. And I’ll just remove the old Nest plate and install the new Ring plate right in its place. Probably only need a little stucco patch and paint when I’m done. Thanks again!
What's required if I do not have a doorbell currently? Can I tap off an existing branch circuit, use a transformer and hit the chime and then to the ring? Do I need a chime if there isn't an existing system?2nd year Apprentice electrician here
At 5:10 you see him ready to attach the two wires to the FRONT and the TRANS terminals. It appears the wires already on those two screws are the regular 110V wires. On my terminals, the two wires are low voltage (I tested by touch and there is no current I can feel from either, yet my doorbell works AND my outdoor doorbell button is lit up. Is there any need for me to install the little included step-down device?
I wish you could have added the final view from the cameras view point to see how much the angle frame helped the installation for this type of side installation.
I bought a hardwired RING basic doorbell for my 82 year-old, mostly deaf, mother, so she would receive visual notification of visitors that would alert her on her cellphone, which is also hooked up to her hearing aids. Because my elderly mother is in a fixed income, and not very technologically proficient, I opted for the most basic, simple, least expensive version that is supposed to replace any existing hardwired doorbell and can be installed by almost anyone with minimal electrical or mechanical skill, like myself. I do have some knowledge about home maintenance and repairs, however-so I first checked the specs on her existing 40 year-old doorbell that worked perfectly since installation long before my family purchased the house- and the specs for the transformer were in line with the requirements for the basic hardwired RING. I even checked the wiring with a voltmeter and the reading confirmed the power was adequate. I then followed the installation instructions meticulously and upon completion the RING doorbell failed to function, supposedly due to inadequate power from the transformer. Tracking down the transformer was more difficult and when I finally located it, in the darkest, most inaccessible creepy old closet in the garage, nestled among 50-year-old cobwebs and God knows how many spider carcasses, not to mention the still living crawling things that probably reside there, I had to throw in the towel. I’m handy, but fuck spiders in my hair- and I don’t give up easily so this was a moment of great frustration for me. Dejected and angry, I uninstalled the RING, defeated, and reinstalled the old doorbell. At this point I had already drilled holes in the brick to mount the new button, which was larger than the old one so the old holes were hidden behind hit- to do this I had to purchase a masonry bit for my drill- needless to say I was EXTREMELY unhappy having to mount the old button, leaving the two new holes visible. My mother’s home, while old, is very nice-she keeps things very neat and tidy and while two small screw holes may not seem like a big deal to most, my mom HATES flaws like that. Still, I carefully rewired the old button and securely mounted it to its original 40 year location only to discover- IT NO LONGER WORKED!!! After 40+ years of flawless operation!!!! I was already wary of RING because the wiring instructions intentionally bypassed the chime, so that by installing the RING, you lost the regular chime function of the existing doorbell- of course, in order to retain regular doorbell function RING required an upgrade to the next model, which was 2.5 times the cost of the basic. This, I felt, was an underhanded, intentional effort to force customers to purchase the more expensive model by purposely configuring their product in a way that unnecessarily disconnected the existing doorbell chime. So when I found my old doorbell suddenly broken after attempting to install the RING, I researched the basic model online and found, unsurprisingly, that countless other customers all experienced the same issue, regardless of the type, model, manufacturer, age or configuration of their existing and previously functional doorbell. When I contacted RING I was told they would be happy to “fix” the problem their product caused by replacing my transformer for “free” IF I upgraded to their model that cost 2.5 times more than the basic version. WHAT A COMPLETE SCAM. That fraudulent, unscrupulous company is selling thousands of unsuspecting customers a product that will damage their personal property, thereby forcing them into spending more than double their original investment or else the customer, while they may be refunded, will no longer have a functional doorbell and face a much more difficult and expensive repair as a result. For many people, especially senior citizens like my 82 year old mother, who are concerned about home safety and want a video doorbell for personal security, but who may also be living in a fixed income, attempting the very simple RING basic installation is already a challenge, so to then be confronted with a transformer malfunction or more complex electrical wiring issue, they are totally out of their depth and stuck with no doorbell at all or forced to purchase a RING PRO, that they cannot afford and may not even be able to operate or understand. FURTHERMORE, after the RING BASIC damages their existing transformer, the installation of another wired doorbell, the installation of the RING PRO doorbell or even the repair/replacement of their now faulty transformer will doubtless require they acquire the assistance of someone with some level of technical knowledge or professional experience to locate the old transformer and solve the problem. What if the transformer is in the crawl space??? How the hell could my 82-year-old mother ever resolve the problem caused by the CROOKS AT RING, without paying somebody??? Now, I know I can go buy a transformer and face my fear of spiders and swap it out, but that will set me back at least $30 and an hour or two of my time, not to mention subject me to extreme emotional angst, when prior to making the mistake of assuming a company as well-known and heavily promoted as RING would be peddling a decent product that functioned as promised and treat customers fairly, my mother had a perfectly good, functional, reliable doorbell that never gave her any problems. If there is any advice you can offer me, regarding my current dilemma after I GOT TOTALLY DEFRAUDED, CHEATED, SCAMMED, AND RIPPED OFF BY THE SCANDALOUS, UNETHICAL THIEVING CORPORATE CRIMINALS AT RING, WHO CON TENS OF THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS AND CHEAT AND LIE FOR PROFIT, I would be very grateful. As of right now, I plan to install a motion activated camera that has nothing to do with the now broken doorbell, and with a gun to my head I will force myself to install a new wired doorbell and transformer- troubleshooting the old bell and transformer seems daunting and like it may lengthen the amount of time I have to spend in the creepy, dark, dirty cabinet in the garage with the 50 year old spider nest.
I'm pretty sure that mount is backwards. the cover doest go on flush when you have it the way you have it. the screws to attach the camera to the mount also are more difficult to put in when it's backwards.
I would love to see a video of you covering different burial depths for trenching jobs. There are a lot of different depths depending on how the circuit is installed.
Private User, Brian Baldwin. and 0509kj are all correct. BEFORE you even start the install, VERIFY your existing doorbell transformer voltage and VA rating. That is the one critical thing never mentioned in any of the Doorbell Cam lecture. From all the doorbell cams I looked at, they mention an operating voltage range (okay, no problem there) and leave it at that. Not a hint of checking to see what you have. After installing and the cam and it not working I checked my doorbell voltage. I have a 10 Volt 5VA transformer wired with #26 telephone wire. Not even close to what the cam needs to operate. Now I have to change the transformer to 16 Volt 30VA, and maybe the chime as well, to get it to work. BEFORE you even start the install, VERIFY your existing doorbell voltage and transformer VA rating.
Just a heads up if this has not been mentioned. The base plate is installed backwards causing a gap between the baseplate and the ring unit. Recommend flipping over.
Do you have to have the original chime box from your home for it to work? Or can it work through just the additional ring chimebox that plugs into the wall?
Normies like me want smart home diy vids from actual electricians. I wrote Dustin about it. Yes he's a bad ass but he's selling himself to new customers.
I saw this bid a month after a friend hooked my ring 4 to my doorbell and just realized by watching your video that i can hookit up to my indoor chime. Is is too late to do it now? I understand you need to have it hooked prior to activating your ring. 😢
Followed your instructions to a T. When I turned my breaker back on the chime would not stop ringing. Turned it back off, checked all wires and connections. Turned breaker back on and chime would not stop ringing constantly so ran around to the front of the house to see if the doorbell had power, by the time I got there my chime stopped(thought that was good) but no power at the doorbell. So I uninstalled everything and put original doorbell back on and now there is no power at the doorbell. Did I burn out the transformer? Kind of at a loss here as the house is only 6 months old.
Im not an electrician but he mentions that touching the wires (after removing the doorbell) signals the chime to go off And to be careful not to accidently make them touching when connecting the wires to the ring.
Thank you .I've watched a few videos from other sites, you have actually shown how the bell cover separates. So many have skipped that part which renders the entire video usless if you can't mount the thing. We'll done. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Few comments. First, the transformers sold today will work. Second the adapter at the chime is not needed with the doorbell 2 and other models. Third, you need to see if your chime is mechanical or digital. If you don't see the metal strike for the chime, you'll likely need the diode (read the instructions on this one). Finally, if you have an Echo or Alexa device, skip the Ring-brand doorbell chime for upstairs or other locations. You can add the Ring skill to Alexa and then it can either play the doorbell chime on any Alexa device, if you want, or I created a voice announcement, "Someone is at the front door." You can then also do it with Ring cameras, "Motion detected in ___ room," or similar. I had a Ring Chime Pro and then tossed it in a drawer once I realized the Echo did it all. Plus I don't have the Wifi 'noise traffic' a Pro extender creates. (There's two chime models: pro and standard. Pro is a wifi extender) OK, one more comment, you can also stack 2 of the adapters. If you noticed, Dustin shows the adapter that tilts forward, and then another one that tilts upward. Ring gives you longer screws to be used for up to 2 stacked adapters. So, you can angle forward and up. However, it's not recommended to use a 3rd and you'd have to buy it seperately anyway.
I ain't putting no Jeff Bezos spy named Alexa in my house.
Bravo
I can't thank you enough for this video, it was fantastic. I just installed my Ring doorbell with your excellent help. I would only add that you'll need the QR code from the device to activate the doorbell, so install the app on your phone first - easier to scan the QR code before the device is installed. MANY THANKS for your excellen help!
THANK YOU SOO MUCH!! you went over the everything we need to know. other videos left the box that connects to the actual doorbell. I'm not sure i would've paid attention to the orientation of ring and probably would've had to turn it upside down. even letting us know not to let the wires touch - GREAT GUIDANCE. def giving you a follow
Thanks! A friend asked if I could install her Ring doorbell, I didn't know what was involved and your video really helped!
This was the most useful video on installing a wired Ring doorbell that I've found on YT. Even though it may seem like a minor point, I like the fact that you reminded folks to be sure to put the mounting screws in at a slight angle if they're going to use the adapter plate that turns the Ring a number of degrees to the side, as was the case in your installation. Had I not seen this video, I probably would have put the screws straight in, thus causing a problem when I went to put the cover plate on. Thanks for posting such a good video.
Thank you for your video. I watched the stuff from RING and a few other before I found yours. Your video was the most complete and useful. I watched it a few times before I even opened the box and then had it open while I installed it in case I missed something and got stuck. It was very useful.
Great video. Can you make one showing your install of the low voltage circuit for those that don't have existing wires. I'm running on batteries and would like something permanent. Thank you again for your videos.
It's super easy. You need an AC transformer something between I don't remember the exact range but between 12 and 24 volts works great. Hope the transformer up to 120 volts to power it and then you just need 18/2 wire to go from the transformer to the doorbell and you're good to go
Most times when it's old work Ill put a 2gang old work cut in or smart box in the wall underneath a switch (100% absolutely make sure that the transformer fits inside of the box you pick out, and that the box fits inside of the wall cavity. I have made that mistake on my first ring install and I was pissed since I didn't have anything else . I'll run 14/ 2 from the switch to my new 2gang box and 18/2 from my two gang box to my doorbell.
The transformer will go inside of the 2 gang box with a blank cover on it
Ditto. I’m in a 95-ish year old house with brick on the front that has never had a doorbell. So I’m curious about not only the installation of the complete system but fishing the wire with brick.
Is there a wireless version? Maybe that would be easier.
@@fomoco300k There is a solar-panel charger for the Ring.That may be a lot easier to install.
@@RJR5243 Thanks for the idea, but my main entrance is under roof on the north side of the house. I think, after looking, that one of the battery powered options is my best way to go.
Still wouldn’t mind seeing an installation from scratch- especially fishing the wires through/behind brick. It would be good info in case I decide to go that route. Maybe it’s not that practical, though. 🤷♂️
Be advised some video doorbells require larger transformers. I’ve had to upgrade some chime transformer that were only 10va to 30va to get, I think it was a Nest, to work properly.
Thank you for making this point!!
This here! I think all of the smart doorbells are rated for 25-30va. Which is well above most standard doorbell
Ive had the same issue when I first did one. You dont even find that you need a 30kva untill the very back of the Ring instruction manual under troubleshooting. The ring actually burnt up a 10va transformer
Was going to post saying the same thing. I'd replace the 10VA transformers on any new install, it's $20. If you have problems and contact support, one of the first things they want to validate is the power supply. And the existing transformer is likely as old as the house.
The Nest is a pain in the.... I've had to change out the transformer AND the old bell wires to get them to work. AND for some reason, if you have the Nest Thermostat, the doorbell has to pair with that to finish setting up. If your doorbell and thermostat are too far apart....you're screwed. Ring is good though, no complaints.
So. I did this less then a year a go. You rocked the 12 volts chime. The chime is a ding dong, but i feel more validation that youa said the same.
Definitely with the ring pro needed to upgrade my transformer to 30va. And further depending on the vintage your wiring might not support the current for that. I had voltage errors on my ring even after upgrading it. Turns out when my house was built they ran a standard Ethernet cable from the transformer in the garage to the chime to the bell button at the door and split the cable in the middle at the chime to make the additional pairs - super tiny gauge wires. Ring's tech support advised me to double up the pairs on each side to carry the extra current but took a fair bit of detective work with a toner to figure out how it was wired to begin with. Once the aha light bulb went off a quick diagram of what actually went to what from where made it easy to do what Ring was suggesting and it's worked perfect ever since, but definitely not the easy install and you're done shown here unfortunately. In an ideal world I would have been able to run new doorbell wire but the way my home is that simply was not practical. Just know the wired smart doorbells can turn into more of a project than you'd expect..
Hi Buddy your video is so simple to follow I have seen others makes so complicated and you get confused. Thank you
Huge thanks! Got my doorbell installed without getting zapped.
EXCELLENT VIDEO>... The BEST I have seen yet...
Now I won't be so scared to do this...
Thank you for sharing this great video...
NOTE: The background noise/music is unnecessary... it just gets in the way of hearing you talk.
All we want to do is HEAR YOU TALK...
Excellent video! The best I’ve seen on this doorbell. Thanks so much!!
I wish you would have filmed exactly what you did in that chime box!
EXACTLY!! I was all good until up to that point..
Freeze the picture, it’s pretty easy to see what and where the chime thing goes.
I didn't have to do anything to my chime box so I am confused. I don't recall my Ring coming with that part
I like to put some scotch 2228 moisture sealing electrical tape over the terminals especially if there's aluminum siding your installing it on or flashing for a door. I find it helps keep the moisture at bay from corroding the terminals as you find with most 10 plus year old push buttons and being the reason they commonly fail.
Just use Noalox...
In my experience, you want to check for compatibility of the existing chime with the model of video doorbell first. I've followed Amazon installers and homeowners to get these things working. I've had to install a diode, upgrade Xfmrs to 30Volt Amp, replace chimes, and cut out plastic J boxes that house the xfmr behind an electronic chime to make room for the larger xfmr. The bigger xfmr is sometimes needed to provide sufficient power needed to ring the chime and, drive the video.
As a life long electrician usually not allow to cut parts of flimsy electrical boxes. At a continuimg education class guy from UL stated that even though every sparky has made a knockout in a PVC box to extend a circuit its not legal. Have to ne extra carefull and cover your butt due to some sum bag ambulance chasing lawyers who would sue their own mother. Had bosses that wanted me to do serious violations. Told them to please placebitbin writing and I want a witness to sign it so I could cover my own butt. They always backed down.
You totally skipped over the part I needed to watch - how you connect the wires to the current (old) chime. I’ve done this but do not get any chime from it when the Ring doorbell is pressed. 😕😕
I work for a home security company and I install about a hundred doorbell cams a year. The old cams we had only required 12-24vac and worked fine on the 16vac/10va transformers but the new ones require 1 amp of power and need the 16vac/30va transformers. I’m not a licensed electrician so I have to tell customers to get the transformer replaced by a pro even tho it’s easy enough for me I can’t take on the liability. Otherwise we have to bypass a transformer to run a wire to a plug in transformer to a receptacle. (Which I think looks ghetto but I can only do so much, I always recommend to get the transformer replaced, but some customers are too cheap) You should show how to swap a transformer or how a dual button system or dual chime box works too.
Common places it find the transformer is in the basement, attic, garage, entry closet, hall closet, furnace closet, utility room, and when you’re all out of places to look, check behind the chime box. Lots of newer houses use a double gang box behind the chime and stuff a transformer in it. I’m curious where else have you guys found transformers? When all else fails I have to fish an 18/2 wire to the nearest receptacle into a plug-in transformer. But you’ll need that chime extender.
@@PrivateUser1 we used to mount our transformers right to the side of the electrical panel
How can I test for this?
Good info
I was hoping you would show more about the installation of the doorbell wiring and the transformer. For the life of me, I couldn't find the transformer in my condo, but I finally found in a box in the wall behind the doorbell chime. I'm pretty sure it's not up to code, but I can't find an electrician to touch it, and I'm not sure how easy it would be to move the transformer to another location and pull new doorbell wiring.
Signed, an IT guy who has enjoyed learning electrical from your videos
What is the little power pack for that you attached in the chime or ringer box? Why is it needed when the system is already powered by A/C?
Two questions: 1. What does the power pack actually do? 2. If the doorbell button simply closes a circuit, then how does the Ring button get its DC power?
That’s why you add the jumper in the chime - it makes the wires to the bell push live.
There’s a step down transformer he showed in the beginning of the video
Do u have a video on how to install outdoor electric socket?
It’s storing energy to run the camera
It definitely depends there is so many different possibilities with parts combinations but just make sure at least it is GFCI protected and is weather and tamper resistant if it's below 6'7" if above it can be non tamper as for the cover 18" or more of over hang eve or porch it can be a flapper cover if less bubble style of your choice also weather caulking the top of the box if bell box is a good idea@@jemmadraper5900
Hey man. Got my ring bell this morning. Going to use it today!
Thanks again
How do you cut the power? Normally I never see anything labeled as doorbell in an electrical panel
I had the same problem ~~~~~The guy who installed the doorbell transformer when our house was built was too lazy to write "doorbell" on the electric service panel. So, just today (since our new Ring is supposed to be delivered tomorrow), I had to have my wife stand outside the front door (while we were using our cell phones as walkie-talkies) and as I turned off one breaker at a time, I told her (via cell phone) to ring the doorbell. When, after turning about 10 breakers off and on again, the door bell went silent, I then knew which breaker controlled the doorbell transformer. In my case, it's the same breaker that controls the hard wired smoke detectors. It'd be a lot easier if the electrician would have written "doorbell" on the service panel door, but, all in all, the walkie talkie method wasn't hard. I just had to re-set the time on the microwave and one alarm clock - which happens anyway when we occasionally get power outages. Of course, a more drastic step would be to turn off the main breaker. Then, for sure, you'd have a number of clocks, etc., to re-set. The one-breaker-at-a-time method only took me about 5 minutes, tops. Hope this helps.
you can also always just flip the main switch for a project of this length.
Just an FYI. The reason your screws aren't flush on the angle bracket is you've got the bracket on the wrong way. The flat part should be on the wall with the open side exposed. They don't tell you that on the included instructions.
In this particular video the installer shows the angle bracket mounted with the exposed side facing in too the building and the flat side out. Which is it and does it really matter
After looking at the video a few times it is kind of deceiving. At 3:45 it looks like the angle bracket is exposed side facing into the house . Then at around 4:06 it almost looks like there is 2 parts to the bracket and the flat side is flush to the house. Deceiving.
@allenandlaurendarie5607 just pointing it out. I have the same unit and it does matter if details are important. In person you will feel the ring rock on the screws because they aren't flush. I found this out when I installed it.
... 4:40 ... I checked my typical/original doorbell to be sure it worked before installing the RING as you did.
The doorbell chime is not working.
The part at 4:40 IS needed to make the chime function?
Thank you.
. Jeff .
Ding Dong!!! Thanks again Dustin!!!
Thanks, easier to follow than the package directions.
Thank you, beautifully explained. You missed how to connect the power pack to an already existing chime. Is it mandatory? What if i dont do it? How do I connect it?
Wait, what does the power pack do? What happens if you don't install it and turn the power on?
thats what i was confused on. thought it was a transformer but idk
Very helpful, I actually installed mine with your help! Thanks
EXCELLENT VIDEO 👍👍. Thank you sir.
You should do more simple all around home stuff like this for beginners more often. Outside outlets extensions to storage areas ext.
@@Tre16 I got my certificate as a electrician dummy, I do maintenance saying for people that want to do simple task around there home.
Thank you, the videos you're talking about are exactly ones I would want. I'm not an electrician.
@@Tre16😮😢 you
Great video. We didn't see you go to the breaker box to switch off breaker. Is that necessary or just more of belts and suspenders type precaution? Thanks
I didn't switch anything off, no problems. Also, I tried the Ring w/o the power pack and it worked but the motion sensor was erratic and a dull hum could be heard from the chime box. Installed the power pack (just loosened the two screws and slid the connectors in, didn't turn off breakers). Everything works perfectly.
One tip distin is to add the ring pro transformer because usually the transformer the people have is only a 10v. And the ring needs atleast a 16v but the universal trans they sell at home depot offers the 16-24v. But not the VA required so I have found you need to use the ring trans it will give you the required VA. 👍
Does the transformer have to be 24v? I don't remember but I've always used the tri-transformer
How do you find the transformer in the house?
Thank you for posting this helpful video
Thank you this is the best help video I ever saw. Great job
Great and clear video. Thank you for spending the time to explain this 🎉
Thanks to your awesome instructions I was able to install my Ring Pro.
Thank you it was helpful 🙏🏽
Big up from Scotland mate
Good info. My Nest hardwired just crapped out and unfortunately Nest/Google doesn’t support them anymore. So sadly I need to replace it. This seems way too easy. And I’ll just remove the old Nest plate and install the new Ring plate right in its place. Probably only need a little stucco patch and paint when I’m done. Thanks again!
Omg I didn’t realize I needed a mounting plate. I never saw information about this before I purchased 😅
What's required if I do not have a doorbell currently? Can I tap off an existing branch circuit, use a transformer and hit the chime and then to the ring? Do I need a chime if there isn't an existing system?2nd year Apprentice electrician here
Ring just wants 24v to work. Yes you can tap off something to put in a transformer.
Your comment about the Chime addition, you can also link RING to your Alexa. That way you can see who's at your door and always hear the ring.
Thank you for this video. It helps a lot!
Thank you. Where can I purchase the ring chime adapter that you installed in your existing chime box?
At 5:10 you see him ready to attach the two wires to the FRONT and the TRANS terminals. It appears the wires already on those two screws are the regular 110V wires. On my terminals, the two wires are low voltage (I tested by touch and there is no current I can feel from either, yet my doorbell works AND my outdoor doorbell button is lit up. Is there any need for me to install the little included step-down device?
Sir I’m definitely subscribing to your channel
About to do the same at my house. Simple and quick vid, thanks!
Thanks for the video!!
Can you please share the steps in case there are 2 chimes in the house for a doorbell
Thanks for cheering this video is helpful for me,
You sort of blew through the Power Pack install. Which wires go where and why do we need this. Explain please.
This was so helpful!
Hello. Can you do a video showing installing 2 rings (front and back door). And maybe installing a chime if you don’t have
Good Video!! Helpful and Informative....Thanks
I wish you could have added the final view from the cameras view point to see how much the angle frame helped the installation for this type of side installation.
Thank you for the video. Very informative. My only question is what do I do with the transformer once I locate it?
I wanted to hear the why we need to turn off the electric and see the final connection of the wires to the chime
Fantastic video, brother.
Informative and concise.
Nicely done.
Great video thanks for taking the time to share it with us
is there a way to locate or test the transformer for the right voltage?
I bought a hardwired RING basic doorbell for my 82 year-old, mostly deaf, mother, so she would receive visual notification of visitors that would alert her on her cellphone, which is also hooked up to her hearing aids. Because my elderly mother is in a fixed income, and not very technologically proficient, I opted for the most basic, simple, least expensive version that is supposed to replace any existing hardwired doorbell and can be installed by almost anyone with minimal electrical or mechanical skill, like myself. I do have some knowledge about home maintenance and repairs, however-so I first checked the specs on her existing 40 year-old doorbell that worked perfectly since installation long before my family purchased the house- and the specs for the transformer were in line with the requirements for the basic hardwired RING. I even checked the wiring with a voltmeter and the reading confirmed the power was adequate. I then followed the installation instructions meticulously and upon completion the RING doorbell failed to function, supposedly due to inadequate power from the transformer. Tracking down the transformer was more difficult and when I finally located it, in the darkest, most inaccessible creepy old closet in the garage, nestled among 50-year-old cobwebs and God knows how many spider carcasses, not to mention the still living crawling things that probably reside there, I had to throw in the towel. I’m handy, but fuck spiders in my hair- and I don’t give up easily so this was a moment of great frustration for me. Dejected and angry, I uninstalled the RING, defeated, and reinstalled the old doorbell. At this point I had already drilled holes in the brick to mount the new button, which was larger than the old one so the old holes were hidden behind hit- to do this I had to purchase a masonry bit for my drill- needless to say I was EXTREMELY unhappy having to mount the old button, leaving the two new holes visible. My mother’s home, while old, is very nice-she keeps things very neat and tidy and while two small screw holes may not seem like a big deal to most, my mom HATES flaws like that. Still, I carefully rewired the old button and securely mounted it to its original 40 year location only to discover- IT NO LONGER WORKED!!! After 40+ years of flawless operation!!!! I was already wary of RING because the wiring instructions intentionally bypassed the chime, so that by installing the RING, you lost the regular chime function of the existing doorbell- of course, in order to retain regular doorbell function RING required an upgrade to the next model, which was 2.5 times the cost of the basic. This, I felt, was an underhanded, intentional effort to force customers to purchase the more expensive model by purposely configuring their product in a way that unnecessarily disconnected the existing doorbell chime. So when I found my old doorbell suddenly broken after attempting to install the RING, I researched the basic model online and found, unsurprisingly, that countless other customers all experienced the same issue, regardless of the type, model, manufacturer, age or configuration of their existing and previously functional doorbell. When I contacted RING I was told they would be happy to “fix” the problem their product caused by replacing my transformer for “free” IF I upgraded to their model that cost 2.5 times more than the basic version. WHAT A COMPLETE SCAM. That fraudulent, unscrupulous company is selling thousands of unsuspecting customers a product that will damage their personal property, thereby forcing them into spending more than double their original investment or else the customer, while they may be refunded, will no longer have a functional doorbell and face a much more difficult and expensive repair as a result. For many people, especially senior citizens like my 82 year old mother, who are concerned about home safety and want a video doorbell for personal security, but who may also be living in a fixed income, attempting the very simple RING basic installation is already a challenge, so to then be confronted with a transformer malfunction or more complex electrical wiring issue, they are totally out of their depth and stuck with no doorbell at all or forced to purchase a RING PRO, that they cannot afford and may not even be able to operate or understand. FURTHERMORE, after the RING BASIC damages their existing transformer, the installation of another wired doorbell, the installation of the RING PRO doorbell or even the repair/replacement of their now faulty transformer will doubtless require they acquire the assistance of someone with some level of technical knowledge or professional experience to locate the old transformer and solve the problem. What if the transformer is in the crawl space??? How the hell could my 82-year-old mother ever resolve the problem caused by the CROOKS AT RING, without paying somebody??? Now, I know I can go buy a transformer and face my fear of spiders and swap it out, but that will set me back at least $30 and an hour or two of my time, not to mention subject me to extreme emotional angst, when prior to making the mistake of assuming a company as well-known and heavily promoted as RING would be peddling a decent product that functioned as promised and treat customers fairly, my mother had a perfectly good, functional, reliable doorbell that never gave her any problems.
If there is any advice you can offer me, regarding my current dilemma after I GOT TOTALLY DEFRAUDED, CHEATED, SCAMMED, AND RIPPED OFF BY THE SCANDALOUS, UNETHICAL THIEVING CORPORATE CRIMINALS AT RING, WHO CON TENS OF THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS AND CHEAT AND LIE FOR PROFIT, I would be very grateful. As of right now, I plan to install a motion activated camera that has nothing to do with the now broken doorbell, and with a gun to my head I will force myself to install a new wired doorbell and transformer- troubleshooting the old bell and transformer seems daunting and like it may lengthen the amount of time I have to spend in the creepy, dark, dirty cabinet in the garage with the 50 year old spider nest.
Very informative, thank you !!
Awesome explaining everything simply ty
Thanks for this!!!!!!!
you never show how to turn power off other than that great video
I'm pretty sure that mount is backwards. the cover doest go on flush when you have it the way you have it. the screws to attach the camera to the mount also are more difficult to put in when it's backwards.
Mine was installed last week. They never turned off the power. Were they hoping for some workman's comp?
was hoping you'd show how to run a low voltage wire line
Thank you Sir🙏
I would love to see a video of you covering different burial depths for trenching jobs. There are a lot of different depths depending on how the circuit is installed.
Private User, Brian Baldwin. and 0509kj are all correct. BEFORE you even start the install, VERIFY your existing doorbell transformer voltage and VA rating. That is the one critical thing never mentioned in any of the Doorbell Cam lecture. From all the doorbell cams I looked at, they mention an operating voltage range (okay, no problem there) and leave it at that. Not a hint of checking to see what you have. After installing and the cam and it not working I checked my doorbell voltage. I have a 10 Volt 5VA transformer wired with #26 telephone wire. Not even close to what the cam needs to operate. Now I have to change the transformer to 16 Volt 30VA, and maybe the chime as well, to get it to work. BEFORE you even start the install, VERIFY your existing doorbell voltage and transformer VA rating.
This is so very true, as this should be the first step. I wonder how many people have returned to the big box store to get this transformer.
What about wiring for a door bell without existing wire
Can I hook up a video doorbell without cutting the power since it’s low voltage?
Did you do it without cutting the power?
@@Najerafamilyadventure yes
Can u just use the plug in chime instead of the apt chime if i dosent work
Great video man!!
Just a heads up if this has not been mentioned. The base plate is installed backwards causing a gap between the baseplate and the ring unit. Recommend flipping over.
In the uk installing a new circuit from the distribution board required electrical installation certificate.
Do you have to have the original chime box from your home for it to work? Or can it work through just the additional ring chimebox that plugs into the wall?
people need to select digital.or mechanical.for type of chime
What would the wiring diagram look like for two Ring Doorbells and one 16V transformer with two screw terminals?
Can you do one for a new install? More modern off an outlet with USB-C transformer built in
Hey Thanks. Our house has wireless chime. So how can find where the transformer is to connect the ring power pack.
Very helpful. Thanks very much.
Great video but how do you connect the power pack to the chime?
Appreciate the tutorial…clear and easy to follow…thanks!
Explain what the box for the chime is for and purpose and how to install
Can you do a video on a complete install? As in if someone doesn't have an existing doorbell wired in. So how to install the wiring for a doorbell.
Great video, thanks, man!
How did you get the power to the door bell cut off?? It would helpful if you could show how to identify the circuit breaker for the door bell
thx man really needed this
Question, the piece you added into the chime box allows the chime to sound with the ring doorbell?
I like how Dustin has to clarify that he's an electrician. Like Bruce Lee saying he's a badass fighter.
Normies like me want smart home diy vids from actual electricians. I wrote Dustin about it. Yes he's a bad ass but he's selling himself to new customers.
I saw this bid a month after a friend hooked my ring 4 to my doorbell and just realized by watching your video that i can hookit up to my indoor chime. Is is too late to do it now? I understand you need to have it hooked prior to activating your ring. 😢
Good video.
Thank you.
P.S. if you can please show us the best way to do run the wire or an easy way to run the wire for the doorbell.
Followed your instructions to a T. When I turned my breaker back on the chime would not stop ringing. Turned it back off, checked all wires and connections. Turned breaker back on and chime would not stop ringing constantly so ran around to the front of the house to see if the doorbell had power, by the time I got there my chime stopped(thought that was good) but no power at the doorbell. So I uninstalled everything and put original doorbell back on and now there is no power at the doorbell. Did I burn out the transformer? Kind of at a loss here as the house is only 6 months old.
Im not an electrician but he mentions that touching the wires (after removing the doorbell) signals the chime to go off
And to be careful not to accidently make them touching when connecting the wires to the ring.
What's the piece you put in the mechanical chime do , what I don't like about Ring is that it does ring just once ,thank you
Great Video!!!! Thank You