Before I noticed the missing Romex connectors, another glaring code violation caught my attention. It appears the new LEDs are wired with 14/2 on a 20A circuit.14 gauge wire should only be used up to 15A. Either rewire with 12 gauge Romex or replace the 20A breaker with one that is 15A.
@@austinguiswite3137 good catch. I didn’t even think of that, mostly because when I add anything, I automatically get 12/2 w ground and not even bother with the 14.
Great informative video. But I believe I would use Romex connectors on my junction boxes. This holds the Romex in place and keeps it from being pulled out of the electrical connections. It also keeps it from rubbing on any sharp metal edges.
@@TechWithBrett I am curious about these lights; the junction boxes are very small. How many conductors are allowed in them? I am putting these in my bathroom renovation and I am using 12/2 cable. You appear to be using 14/2. NEC seems to indicate 2.25 sq inches per 12 gauge conductor in the box. If I do what you have done and use clamps, will I not have exceeded the provided box capacity? The ones I purchased do not have any description of the box capacity, they are very similar to the ones you installed. I wonder if a better way might be to use a transformer and supply only 24v DC to the lights in series.
When you buy the romex push in connectors for the junction box knockouts, make sure you don't buy the Heavy duty types that I did. They were such a huge pain to install and then I changed the lights out for a different style and they were even worse to remove. I mangled the boxes going in and out because the sheet metal is so thin and the connector tabs were incredibly stiff. I guess I got the ones for breaker panels. However, I just found some that have a split in the side and they are really easy to install and then remove if you need to. they hold the wires really well. It made me cry and die inside when I tried them.
@@TechWithBrett the Play Gradient wasn't out yet but here is my tik tok video of my setup vm.tiktok.com/ZMe1UDq92/ Also here is some additional lights I have in my setup. vm.tiktok.com/ZMe1U6AeP/
As others have mentioned the wires need to have the restraints in the cut out holes because you have cable against a sheet metal edge. If you ever get tired of that lighting, Globe electric makes a really nice dim to warm product line called Duo Bright. They’re water and dust rated, and insulation contact rated. They change color as you dim them, which is a very pleasing effect.
ikr? Everything in the US is dry wall so it's easy to make changes, here in Europe the way you'd go about this would be to install what we call "fake ceilings" which is basically dry wall was well, but your regular concrete ceiling stays under it.
If your house's ceiling is wood panel it works just the same, the cutting just takes a little longer. Plenty of houses don't have concrete ceilings, flats, however, are a different thing.
Nice work Brett, since it very simple to access the electrical boxes on the recessed lights, just get a dozen romex connecters and reset the romex wires in the boxes, Proper and Safe wiring. Before an electrical inspector on TH-cam see it, and I can stop worrying. Stay Safe.
Nice job but to avoid barriers use a stud finders to mark stud and fire block locations, also when fishing wire use a magnet to route the wire, this avoids having to cut extra holes in the ceiling. I'm an electrician, these are tricks of the trade.
What if you already have can lighting but you want to change them to these types of lights. I've already swit he'd them to led wafers but the screwed right into the light bulb socked so I didn't have to touch the wiring but I would like to switch to smart lights
Nice work. I went with Nicor's DLE line (6" in the ceilings and 4" in the bedroom closets). Is there no need to secure the Romex to each driver box with the appropriate fasteners? (In the knockout)?
How does this brand of led wafers perform with with the lutron caseta dimmer switch pd-6wcl...Do you get any issues...lutron site only have a few compatible led downlights...how did u know this onenwould work without any flickering or ghosting issues..thanks
If that was the breaker for the room, you need to use 12 gage wire, as per code the 14 gage is only aloud to be "fused" up to 15 amps in most places. Also you need to use a box connector where ever the cable enters a box. Other than that nice work!
I get how to kill the center old light and just use the power that was powering the old light and string it to each pod light. BUT what if I wanted to keep the center old light working as well?
Whoever it was did the same thing in my whole basement and I have considered ripping the whole thing out and starting over. I was the one that filled the holes.
You have to use non metallic push connector so the cable is secure in the jbox hole. Also will be better if you use wirenuts instead of those push in connectors. Lights are too close to the wall
Are all 9 cans on one switch, or on that one light outlet? I want to add some much needed light down in my basement, but there is only 2 lights attached to my switch. If I can replace the 1 (one is at the base of the stairs, the other is in a different room) at the base of the stairs with some cans like those spread out without overloading anything and still be safe then I might have to do that.
@@TechWithBrett Thanks for the update. If I do follow through it would be max 6, its mainly to replace 1 pull cord light further in the basement, and of course to replace the one bulb at the base of the stairs.
I’ve worked with these plenty of times. If you cut your hole to the right size with a hole saw, you won’t have any air gap issues. I keep my 4 inch and 6 inch hole saws in my box. Those two springs are very strong and will hold it snug against the drywall. They will snap your finger too so watch out. For those bulbs that are wet area rated, they come with a ring gasket that goes around the top lip of the wafer to work as a moisture barrier. I’ve installed those over my shower and bath tub.
I watch alot of these remolding videos. It seems I never see strapped ceilings in them. The drywall is screwed right to the joists. I did all my work in Massachusetts, and every ceiling is strapped with 3/4" pine perpendicular with the joists. For several reasons. Are we the only place in the country that does things right?
Yes I like the strapping especially for running the wires but new codes wouldn't allow batt insulation on the strapping in our new addition. Inspector said our options were cellulose fill or foam for the roof.
So on the actually light that is only changing the color temperature and not the brightness of light. So you have to change temperature on the light but the brightness is from the switch.
I thought it was just me seeing that ceiling just like you said someone put mud on it like hell. Me as a DIY-er I can't install such beautiful lights with a horrible ceiling. I feel putting the fanciest suit on but with dusty or muddy shoes on.
Almost looked like it was supposed to be an Italian plaster finish. If it wasn't that, it really was a bad look and I could see where the holes were patched too! Better to get some all purpose mud and skim coat the thing and, for goodness sake, use flat paint on it!
I would have first redone the ceilings, somebody did a bad job with the sheetrock compound and sanding. At the very least paint it a flat white, looks like there is a sheen.
So funny watching American houses. They seem like playhouses where you can poke and make holes everywhere. I guess it makes DIY easier than in the reinforced concrete fortresses we have to build in my country :-)
Replace it?? Should last more than 30,000 hours though. Even if you can't get that manufacturer any more, just pull down the old light and the junction box and buy a new, very similar one. Yeah, it's not unscrew and screw in easy like an incandescent or cfl bulb, but not terribly complicated either.
not living in a drywall home sucks... every wall is basically solid concrete and installing cables is basically impossible after construction, scewing anything into the wall requires stone drill bits and a hammer drill
Works exactly the same in almost every house I've seen in Europe, flats are of course different thing as your ceiling is at the same time the floor of the upstairs neighbour. Which is also the same situation in the US 😉
@@iLoveTheseRemoras well dosn't work in my House and wont work in other houses I know around here. You can't drill such giant holes in concrete ceilings.
I considered going with a traditional can and installing Philips Hue recessed lights in each can but that is around $55 per light where this was $30 per light and I didn't need to purchase a can. Long term I think this was a better option.
Dude nooooooooo you can run romex into a bare hole like that!!! I appreciate the DIY and project looks good but man make sure you are using the proper supplies. You can use the cheap plastic romex clamps and it will protect the wire from the metal edges of the box, surprised it didn’t come with them. Good job otherwise though!
As a professional lighting designer, these lights are the worst way to light a room that isn’t a morgue! The beam angle is way too wide, there is excessive glare and the colour temperature is way too cool. Also a grid arrangement is very bad design, the only spaces this arrangement is good for would be a perhaps a workshop space with requirements for blanket illumination. This is terrible for a domestic setting. The light emitting elements should not be visible in the space, the light should be directed to where it’s needed and ideally should have some ‘rise and fall’ to help the room feel more homely. Also warmer colour temperatures such as 2700k is more suitable. Fair play for making a good video but this is really not a good design for most people.
I don't know who mudded your ceiling, but you need to get your money back. So bad! If you use the lights on the 3000-5000k setting, they will show every defect.
You need approved connectors for the Romex that goes into the junction boxes. Otherwise, nice job!
Not sure how I missed that. Thanks!
I was just at the point of him wiring the junction boxes and I'm like "WWWWAAAIIIIITTTT, you're missing......"
Before I noticed the missing Romex connectors, another glaring code violation caught my attention. It appears the new LEDs are wired with 14/2 on a 20A circuit.14 gauge wire should only be used up to 15A. Either rewire with 12 gauge Romex or replace the 20A breaker with one that is 15A.
@@austinguiswite3137 good catch. I didn’t even think of that, mostly because when I add anything, I automatically get 12/2 w ground and not even bother with the 14.
@@john_thorpe Thanks guys for all the help!
I put this project off for years but in the end it was totally worth the time it took! I much prefer this install over traditional canned lights.
My first shout out in a TH-cam video, ha ha. Nice video, my friend. Great job on the lights. Now I want to do my basement!
Oh wow! We see those lights everywhere!
Great informative video. But I believe I would use Romex connectors on my junction boxes. This holds the Romex in place and keeps it from being pulled out of the electrical connections. It also keeps it from rubbing on any sharp metal edges.
Great tip, thank you!
ooooooo
@@TechWithBrett I am curious about these lights; the junction boxes are very small. How many conductors are allowed in them? I am putting these in my bathroom renovation and I am using 12/2 cable. You appear to be using 14/2. NEC seems to indicate 2.25 sq inches per 12 gauge conductor in the box. If I do what you have done and use clamps, will I not have exceeded the provided box capacity? The ones I purchased do not have any description of the box capacity, they are very similar to the ones you installed. I wonder if a better way might be to use a transformer and supply only 24v DC to the lights in series.
Nice job, love those wafer style lights! Dimmable & option to change the Kelvin rating!
When you buy the romex push in connectors for the junction box knockouts, make sure you don't buy the Heavy duty types that I did. They were such a huge pain to install and then I changed the lights out for a different style and they were even worse to remove. I mangled the boxes going in and out because the sheet metal is so thin and the connector tabs were incredibly stiff. I guess I got the ones for breaker panels. However, I just found some that have a split in the side and they are really easy to install and then remove if you need to. they hold the wires really well. It made me cry and die inside when I tried them.
I did a Phillips Hue sync box and love it! You won't regret it and watching movies will never be the same!
What lights are you using? I'm also thinking about trying out the Play Gradient so it should looked pretty cool.
@@TechWithBrett the Play Gradient wasn't out yet but here is my tik tok video of my setup vm.tiktok.com/ZMe1UDq92/
Also here is some additional lights I have in my setup. vm.tiktok.com/ZMe1U6AeP/
These have been a game changer doesn't matter if there's a stud dosnt matter where the stud is you could install these anywhere
That turned out pretty good. The sat really flush to the ceiling.
Yes and no. Just build a drop down ceiling. Then run the wiring above. The hardest part is finishing of the ceiling.
I had a home built and I made sure I had recess lighting in every room and hallways. Very nice video.
Great job, thanks for showing everything needed along with links.
the plaster on the ceiling need doing before lights
There was some... I didn't do it.
nice work man, i think its hard to capture the before and after on the camera. but looks really good.
As others have mentioned the wires need to have the restraints in the cut out holes because you have cable against a sheet metal edge. If you ever get tired of that lighting, Globe electric makes a really nice dim to warm product line called Duo Bright. They’re water and dust rated, and insulation contact rated. They change color as you dim them, which is a very pleasing effect.
Looks great 👍
I really loved watching, very instructive..!
With the concrete ceilings we have in Europe it will be a lot more difficult !
ikr? Everything in the US is dry wall so it's easy to make changes, here in Europe the way you'd go about this would be to install what we call "fake ceilings" which is basically dry wall was well, but your regular concrete ceiling stays under it.
If your house's ceiling is wood panel it works just the same, the cutting just takes a little longer. Plenty of houses don't have concrete ceilings, flats, however, are a different thing.
I caught the JerryRigEverything reference! Love it!
Nice work Brett, since it very simple to access the electrical boxes on the recessed lights, just get a dozen romex connecters and reset the romex wires in the boxes, Proper and Safe wiring. Before an electrical inspector on TH-cam see it, and I can stop worrying. Stay Safe.
Thanks! I plan to make an update.
Nice job but to avoid barriers use a stud finders to mark stud and fire block locations, also when fishing wire use a magnet to route the wire, this avoids having to cut extra holes in the ceiling. I'm an electrician, these are tricks of the trade.
Wow, gr8 work. Gr8 video in show how EZ 2 install & what 2 do when there is stud in the way. Thx 4 sharing on Utube.
These wafer lights are usually only 1/2" thick - same thickness as the drywall - so it will fit in the hole without touching the joist or rafter.
Gotta use cable clamp on those junction boxes.
WoW that's nice, great review as always.👍🔥
Thank you for muting when said Hey Google mine would been confused I don't have any wafer lights. Thanks for sharing your video with us.
What if you already have can lighting but you want to change them to these types of lights. I've already swit he'd them to led wafers but the screwed right into the light bulb socked so I didn't have to touch the wiring but I would like to switch to smart lights
Great content, do u only need one junction box ?
Installed these puck lights in my daughters basement last night!
Looks great
Do you have a link to the blog? Doing something similar and would appreciate advice on the layout
I recently updated my garage with these "Ensenior 6 Inch Ultra-Thin LED" at Amazon!
So what exactly did you end up doing about that one light that was sitting kind of off-kilter because the joist was in the way?
Do you know how thick of a ceiling these can support? Im interested in going through a tongue and groove ceiling over drywall.
Nice video sir
Looks good. Don't we have to put in a wire holder in the junction box hole
Yes. I missed that part and need to go back and do it.
This is awesome. Do you have a wiring diagram?
Yes great video thanks 🍺🍺🍺🔥🔥🔥
Nice work. I went with Nicor's DLE line (6" in the ceilings and 4" in the bedroom closets). Is there no need to secure the Romex to each driver box with the appropriate fasteners? (In the knockout)?
hi Bret, could you do a video on wyze thermostat too please, i bought one but hesitant to install it seems complicated thanks
how can you wire first light from the power source ? is that from swich or something else?
Does the recess kit comes with knob too for changing brightness? Phipis hue has knob.
Great video
What Kelvin temperature did you use?
How does this brand of led wafers perform with with the lutron caseta dimmer switch pd-6wcl...Do you get any issues...lutron site only have a few compatible led downlights...how did u know this onenwould work without any flickering or ghosting issues..thanks
If that was the breaker for the room, you need to use 12 gage wire, as per code the 14 gage is only aloud to be "fused" up to 15 amps in most places. Also you need to use a box connector where ever the cable enters a box. Other than that nice work!
I get how to kill the center old light and just use the power that was powering the old light and string it to each pod light. BUT what if I wanted to keep the center old light working as well?
awesome work! just one question: why did you permanently close where the originals lights were? Normally you should never let a junction box hidden...
Who did the plaster job on that roof?
Whoever it was did the same thing in my whole basement and I have considered ripping the whole thing out and starting over.
I was the one that filled the holes.
@@TechWithBrett
Learned now that ceiling is inside, roof outside! :)
Nice lights!
Just hire a professional to skim coat the ceilings to a level 5 finish.
Is there any glare when the two cans by the TV are on?
I'm definitely too stupid to do this. Looks good!
You have to use non metallic push connector so the cable is secure in the jbox hole.
Also will be better if you use wirenuts instead of those push in connectors.
Lights are too close to the wall
Can you use these on already recess lighting ?
Great job! Thanx!
Don't forget the box plastic clips like I did.
Are all 9 cans on one switch, or on that one light outlet? I want to add some much needed light down in my basement, but there is only 2 lights attached to my switch. If I can replace the 1 (one is at the base of the stairs, the other is in a different room) at the base of the stairs with some cans like those spread out without overloading anything and still be safe then I might have to do that.
All cans are on one light switch. Definitely looks into how many lights you can add per circuit. That is a part I would need to do some research on.
@@TechWithBrett Thanks for the update. If I do follow through it would be max 6, its mainly to replace 1 pull cord light further in the basement, and of course to replace the one bulb at the base of the stairs.
Pretty cool
Thanks for sharing!
Hello. Where did you get your blue couch?? Thank you
It is the Kivik series from Ikea.
Thanks for sharing.
U mentioned bridge? What model
Any experience with air coming through? Just wanna know if I should get the wafers or airlocked cans.
I’ve worked with these plenty of times. If you cut your hole to the right size with a hole saw, you won’t have any air gap issues. I keep my 4 inch and 6 inch hole saws in my box. Those two springs are very strong and will hold it snug against the drywall. They will snap your finger too so watch out. For those bulbs that are wet area rated, they come with a ring gasket that goes around the top lip of the wafer to work as a moisture barrier. I’ve installed those over my shower and bath tub.
What happened with that rough ceiling finish?
It was the people that finished the basement before us. But sure what happened there.
Do these emit RFI? Radio frequency interference?
I can't get mine snug with the ceiling. Huge gap. Any tips?
Your ceiling may be partially uneven, but make sure there is nothing in the way of the clamp so it can fit flush on both sides.
Thank You Brett 🙂
Saving to my, "Smart Home 101" Playlist 📲 🏘️
😊,
JaneLee 🕊️ - in Suburban Philadelphia
1/31/21
That is what I want to do as well thank you for the tips
I watch alot of these remolding videos. It seems I never see strapped ceilings in them. The drywall is screwed right to the joists. I did all my work in Massachusetts, and every ceiling is strapped with 3/4" pine perpendicular with the joists. For several reasons. Are we the only place in the country that does things right?
Yes I like the strapping especially for running the wires but new codes wouldn't allow batt insulation on the strapping in our new addition. Inspector said our options were cellulose fill or foam for the roof.
@@oldgoldtopgoldtop6039 that's a bullshit rule. Just more rules for the sake of having rules.
Why didn't you set the brightness to full bright on the lights then control the dim with the dimmer switch?
So on the actually light that is only changing the color temperature and not the brightness of light. So you have to change temperature on the light but the brightness is from the switch.
@@TechWithBrett OH! Thanks!
What if your wafer light only has white and black, no ground?
Need a romex connector and you can put 2 wires into 1 hole
Damn, those are some Janky AF ceilings and walls! Like slapping mud onto a fkn hut! Great video BTW!
I thought it was just me seeing that ceiling just like you said someone put mud on it like hell. Me as a DIY-er I can't install such beautiful lights with a horrible ceiling. I feel putting the fanciest suit on but with dusty or muddy shoes on.
@@pwisc2115 Totally agree 100%
Almost looked like it was supposed to be an Italian plaster finish. If it wasn't that, it really was a bad look and I could see where the holes were patched too! Better to get some all purpose mud and skim coat the thing and, for goodness sake, use flat paint on it!
What is the size of the room please?
The room is 16.5" by 17.5".
he seems so proud of himself well he did it so yea. ladies now you try and when u fall maybe then we'll be equal.
"Nice Cans"
Amazing job, but I think you look like Josh Homme🤣
Don’t you need to seal the opening with an approved connector? Unless you live in 3rd world country with no codes... nice vid
I now know I need to do that. I will be fixing. Thanks!
it's a lot of work but it looks so good tho!
100%! I'm glad I just went for it.
I would have first redone the ceilings, somebody did a bad job with the sheetrock compound and sanding. At the very least paint it a flat white, looks like there is a sheen.
I would have made them worse... I like the idea of the flat paint though.
@@TechWithBrett Yes and the flat paint will do a better job of hiding the flaws in the ceiling.
So funny watching American houses. They seem like playhouses where you can poke and make holes everywhere. I guess it makes DIY easier than in the reinforced concrete fortresses we have to build in my country :-)
This room looks like a Studio for family entertainment, who need a concrete dungeon?
@@ramonfunes3542 Ehh we do. Earthquakes up to 6 on Richter. :-)
So... what happens when they burn out?
Replace it?? Should last more than 30,000 hours though. Even if you can't get that manufacturer any more, just pull down the old light and the junction box and buy a new, very similar one. Yeah, it's not unscrew and screw in easy like an incandescent or cfl bulb, but not terribly complicated either.
But what happens when one goes out????
You can just replace that LED light. Right after the junction box there is an adapter that you can easily remove and replace the LED wafer.
@@TechWithBrett ah ha, thank you!
not living in a drywall home sucks... every wall is basically solid concrete and installing cables is basically impossible after construction, scewing anything into the wall requires stone drill bits and a hammer drill
👌
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooook
Don't forgot to add the push in connectors into each light box knock out. Looks like I forgot those.
WARNING! Make sure this installation is up to your local electrical code!!!
"Chain them all together" aka "run them in series"
Ur cool
You are too.
Cut a whole in yout ceiling! Unfortunatly that wont work in Europe.
Works exactly the same in almost every house I've seen in Europe, flats are of course different thing as your ceiling is at the same time the floor of the upstairs neighbour. Which is also the same situation in the US 😉
@@iLoveTheseRemoras well dosn't work in my House and wont work in other houses I know around here.
You can't drill such giant holes in concrete ceilings.
Why not use smart lights ? its crazy to me.
I considered going with a traditional can and installing Philips Hue recessed lights in each can but that is around $55 per light where this was $30 per light and I didn't need to purchase a can. Long term I think this was a better option.
Hi
10% enough )))
you need to turn off the electricity ? i just did it while it was on lmao
I go 5000k everywhere
Man just use a hole saw ?
Dude nooooooooo you can run romex into a bare hole like that!!! I appreciate the DIY and project looks good but man make sure you are using the proper supplies. You can use the cheap plastic romex clamps and it will protect the wire from the metal edges of the box, surprised it didn’t come with them. Good job otherwise though!
I learned my lesson. Thanks!
V
As a professional lighting designer, these lights are the worst way to light a room that isn’t a morgue! The beam angle is way too wide, there is excessive glare and the colour temperature is way too cool. Also a grid arrangement is very bad design, the only spaces this arrangement is good for would be a perhaps a workshop space with requirements for blanket illumination. This is terrible for a domestic setting. The light emitting elements should not be visible in the space, the light should be directed to where it’s needed and ideally should have some ‘rise and fall’ to help the room feel more homely. Also warmer colour temperatures such as 2700k is more suitable. Fair play for making a good video but this is really not a good design for most people.
I don't know who mudded your ceiling, but you need to get your money back. So bad! If you use the lights on the 3000-5000k setting, they will show every defect.
And any finish other than dead flat or matte ain't gonna help matters either!
H
Stopped watching at 6:06 lol
I thought it was Waffle Lights
I'm truly not sure what I should be calling them.
@@TechWithBrett Either way is good, but now I am hungry :)