Tried it a few times- found it took ages to dry, on tricky fixes (last used on a 1/32 Westland Lynx) was not very effective-ended up daring to use poly, fortunately worked alright. My hint is let it cure for 15 mins before glueing parts..otherwise am not convinced it is worth more than PVA, which is much cheaper.
I haven't actually tried to see whether it does this, but I'm pretty sure that it doesnt as it creates a mark itself. It wont get rid of the clouding, as its permanent damage
I, bought myself a bottle of this and used a test canapy to see if it gave you the effect of glass rather than plastic.... It completely fogged over. I was so happy I didn't us it on my 1/24 Hurricane as I'd planned.... Where did I go wrong? Any advice or tips greatly excepted 😁👍👍.
Oh dear! Clearfix is used as an alternative to the normal poly cement. It wont change the look of the plastic clear parts, but it reduces the chances of the glue fogging the clear parts. I've had no issues when gluing my clear parts down with Clearfix. I'm sorry to hear you have had a bad experience! PVA glue also works to secure the clear parts in place without it fogging up. I think I will make a better video in the future of Canopy Parts to hopefully help people more than this older video! If you need any more help, dont hesitate to ask :)
@@DomsScaleModels thanks for the reply....... I only noticed my cock up last night DOOH! I didn't realise what a difference 1 extra word made, until I tried using Clearfix as Clear... 😒😒. Enjoy your helpful content.
I've never tried Clearfix with photo etched parts, so I would advise to use what your would normally use! If you end up trying it, please let me know the results so I can answer the same question if it occurs again :)
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Might try that if it drys quicker than Krystal clear
Yeah, it does dry pretty quickly from my own experience
Tried it a few times- found it took ages to dry, on tricky fixes (last used on a 1/32 Westland Lynx) was not very effective-ended up daring to use poly, fortunately worked alright. My hint is let it cure for 15 mins before glueing parts..otherwise am not convinced it is worth more than PVA, which is much cheaper.
Can this also get rid of glue marks as well
I haven't actually tried to see whether it does this, but I'm pretty sure that it doesnt as it creates a mark itself. It wont get rid of the clouding, as its permanent damage
Good vid Dom! 👍
I, bought myself a bottle of this and used a test canapy to see if it gave you the effect of glass rather than plastic.... It completely fogged over. I was so happy I didn't us it on my 1/24 Hurricane as I'd planned.... Where did I go wrong? Any advice or tips greatly excepted 😁👍👍.
Oh dear! Clearfix is used as an alternative to the normal poly cement. It wont change the look of the plastic clear parts, but it reduces the chances of the glue fogging the clear parts. I've had no issues when gluing my clear parts down with Clearfix. I'm sorry to hear you have had a bad experience! PVA glue also works to secure the clear parts in place without it fogging up. I think I will make a better video in the future of Canopy Parts to hopefully help people more than this older video! If you need any more help, dont hesitate to ask :)
@@DomsScaleModels thanks for the reply....... I only noticed my cock up last night DOOH! I didn't realise what a difference 1 extra word made, until I tried using Clearfix as Clear... 😒😒. Enjoy your helpful content.
Can we also use it for applying photo etched parts? Thanks
I've never tried Clearfix with photo etched parts, so I would advise to use what your would normally use! If you end up trying it, please let me know the results so I can answer the same question if it occurs again :)
Model minutes sent me
Good vid
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it
You could just use pva glue instead of clearfix to glue clear parts which also doesn’t nasty fumes