A bit of a random question but I figured you're the Alfa Romeo wizard so wanted to ask. If you convert an Alfa 156 from 1.6ts to 1.8ts do you need another ECU or the engine will run just fine? I only found very old forums and some were saying you don't have to change ECU it will read just fine and others said that you should. I'm looking for a final answer from you because you are very experienced with Alfas. The car seems to run fine but it the old ECU is going to cause any problems to the new engine I would like to know it now that it's early. Thank you❤️
Hello. Thanks for watching. To have a perfect working engine, you must have the proper ECU. For example, the 1.6 doesn't have the variable intake, the 1.8 and 2.0 do. The 1.6 ECU will not run that function
@@alfaromeonoproblem Will this damage the engine ? Because I can't fix it right away because of the cost of the swap. Can I run the engine like that? And for how long?
I learned 2 things form doing my lower wishbones (147). I did mine one at a time as the nearside wore out 2 years earlier. First, getting the old one out and the new one in is much easier if you jack the wheel to compress the suspension on the other side. (The chassis needs to be supported on axle stands under jacking points, to do this). This lifts the anti roll bar out of the way, so the new wishbone goes in easy. Second, new wishbones are supplied with the bushed clamps in the wrong position to fit flat against the subframe. Rotating them with mole grips or water pump pliers, so the clamp bases are parallel to the subframe makes cross-threading very unlikely. Personally I'd only buy TRW. Most of the others are crap, fit badly, and wear fast. Oh and top wishbones. After fitting the new one I struggled to lift the shock into the turret and get a nut on the top mount studs. Not enough arms, and arms not long enough! In the end I dropped a piece of cord through the hole in the turret and used the cord to lift the shock into position so I could get a nut on the top mount. I now do that every time. 4 top wishbones changed so far, even TRW can't survive a London MOT tester pinching the boot with his pry bar.
Thanks Bruno. Torque setting for bolts into subframe according to manual are 71 to 79 Nm if anyone is curious. I did one side last year now time for the other side including upper arm. This time I will remove the fork from the shock as it was a nuisance for me last time.
It can be done without cross threading the bolts and you don't need to remove so much. How I know? Because I did it. All you have to do is to use a leverage bar to put it in place, hold it and screw by hand. A long screwdriver can help too for aiming. I always start with the screw in the back at the aluminium part. You need a custom 36 for the axleshaft nut, a new nut, a really long and strong bar to unscrew it, so you can't do it quite easy... And also, it can be done without removing axle nut, but you'll work more.
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Thanks bruno, great alfa romeo master
Thanks for watching!
My 156 is lowered on suspension as well and that caused lots of negative camber on the front wheels. Is there a way to adjust the camber? Thanks!
No adjustments on camber. Do toe in 0,03 on each front wheel
A bit of a random question but I figured you're the Alfa Romeo wizard so wanted to ask. If you convert an Alfa 156 from 1.6ts to 1.8ts do you need another ECU or the engine will run just fine? I only found very old forums and some were saying you don't have to change ECU it will read just fine and others said that you should. I'm looking for a final answer from you because you are very experienced with Alfas. The car seems to run fine but it the old ECU is going to cause any problems to the new engine I would like to know it now that it's early. Thank you❤️
Hello. Thanks for watching. To have a perfect working engine, you must have the proper ECU. For example, the 1.6 doesn't have the variable intake, the 1.8 and 2.0 do. The 1.6 ECU will not run that function
@@alfaromeonoproblem Will this damage the engine ? Because I can't fix it right away because of the cost of the swap. Can I run the engine like that? And for how long?
@elite_dragon_6945 you can, you just will not have the best performance. Maybe even more emissions
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thanks a lot ❤️
Boas bruno, alguma marca a evitar? Ou marca sugerida dessa suspensão?
Olá. Evite praticamente todas. Use apenas TRW ou lemforder. Comprado em loja apenas. Tenho apanhado muitas falsificadas no autodoc
Tenho o canal todo em português se for melhor para si. Desculpe se já lhe disse isso.
I learned 2 things form doing my lower wishbones (147). I did mine one at a time as the nearside wore out 2 years earlier. First, getting the old one out and the new one in is much easier if you jack the wheel to compress the suspension on the other side. (The chassis needs to be supported on axle stands under jacking points, to do this). This lifts the anti roll bar out of the way, so the new wishbone goes in easy.
Second, new wishbones are supplied with the bushed clamps in the wrong position to fit flat against the subframe. Rotating them with mole grips or water pump pliers, so the clamp bases are parallel to the subframe makes cross-threading very unlikely. Personally I'd only buy TRW. Most of the others are crap, fit badly, and wear fast.
Oh and top wishbones. After fitting the new one I struggled to lift the shock into the turret and get a nut on the top mount studs. Not enough arms, and arms not long enough! In the end I dropped a piece of cord through the hole in the turret and used the cord to lift the shock into position so I could get a nut on the top mount. I now do that every time. 4 top wishbones changed so far, even TRW can't survive a London MOT tester pinching the boot with his pry bar.
Great work. Do you have video of changing bushigs on the lower control arms.
Hello. Thanks for watching. I do not, I'm waiting for a hydraulic press and then I will do it
THANK YOU. Great video! Thank you for keeping the Brera Spider alive!! Keep up the good work !!
Thank you very much!
Thanks Bruno. Torque setting for bolts into subframe according to manual are 71 to 79 Nm if anyone is curious. I did one side last year now time for the other side including upper arm. This time I will remove the fork from the shock as it was a nuisance for me last time.
Thank you very much for sharing that info
Thanks Bruno, I use Au todoc for my parts, but only buy the repitable brands such as TRW, is this okay or do you suspect they are not good still?
Hello. Most or all that I've seen from there are fake parts and or with defects.
It can be done without cross threading the bolts and you don't need to remove so much. How I know? Because I did it. All you have to do is to use a leverage bar to put it in place, hold it and screw by hand. A long screwdriver can help too for aiming. I always start with the screw in the back at the aluminium part. You need a custom 36 for the axleshaft nut, a new nut, a really long and strong bar to unscrew it, so you can't do it quite easy... And also, it can be done without removing axle nut, but you'll work more.
I know
It would be nice to see a film about Selespeed. Thanks for your work
Hello, thanks for watching. There are very few to no selespeed here in Portugal. For that it will be very difficult to record in one.
Hi Bruno, i have question unrelated to this but the busso v6 24v. If the thermostat fails does it fail stuck closed or open like the ts engines?..
Hello. I had one 12v that was stuck closed.. not good. On the 24v I do not know, sorry. There are so few here in Portugal
@@alfaromeonoproblem ok, then I will replace mine just to be sure.. Thanks for the info👍
Thanks dude 1:39 i have same noise started 2 weeks 😂😂 very annoying i go change that.
Thanks for watching. Make sure to confirm the issue before replacing.
I wish I had the same noise, but in my bed. If you know what I mean. :p
@DashCamSerbia though of that too! Lol
👍
Es wäre schön ein Film über Selespeed Danke für deine Arbeit
Can you translate to English or Portuguese?