@@BadKarma714 Check out DSLR Video Shooter. Caleb makes great guides on individual cameras, and they are pretty cheap as well. Worth the price if you ask me, you'll learn everything that there is to know about the G7.
Remember kids, it sounds better if you talk INTO the microphone. 🤣🤷♂️ The automated noise reduction in Resolve seemed to hate it when I was off-axis--it made for a very muffled sound. But it only showed up on export and only for the first couple seconds of the clip. It sounded normal during playback. I wish there was a way to "apply" the effect like you can in Audition and most DAWs. Also, thumbs up if you stayed to hear the surprise at 19:47. 🤣👍
Lool again you basically nailed the Beta testing of DR by accident! xD 18 videos later, maybe their soft will end up being perfect, once you'll have missed the color grading after hitting the ND filter with your arm, & once you'll have sneezed while holding the tripod, & we'll discover some new quirks of DR Digital IS ... :D can't wait ^^ → DR brand new *Sneeze Shot Stabilization*
Gerald I’ve been here since your 6K subscriber days. So happy for your success. Your videos are an immense treasure trove of information for the community.
I use the Viltrox EF-M2 II on my Pocket 4K and have had nothing but pleasant experiences with it. When I'm wide open with my Rokinons, it does look very soft, but if stopped down to 2, the sharpness comes right back. I'm glad I didn't spend all that extra money on the Metabones, personally. Thank you for comparing these, as it proves you can finally buy an affordable AND high quality focal reducer.
Is that lens normally soft or does it only get soft on the speedbooster? If so then what's the point of getting the extra stop of light if you can't even use it?
Is anybody faced blurred image problem when using Viltrox and Rokinon? I changed 2 wide angle lenses because of this problem and still didn’t get rid off!
Hello Gerald That's insane. My Setup: Bmpcc4k, Metabones and Sigma 18-35 I use my bmpcc4 the Edelkrone Headplus and the Focus Module. Depending on the focal length, the focus was not right. I would never have come up with the idea to adjust this on my Metabone. Now it works perfectly. Thank you!
I don't have a MFT Camera. I don't use any adapters of any kind. I still watched the whole video. You're just incredibly thorough and I love the content. ✌️
I’m using the viltrox .71x adapter on my BMPCC4k and I never had an issue with it being really tight on the lens and it being a little loose on the BMPCC4k. Mine fit perfectly!
Dude, thanks, really interesting. I am a newb. I just got the 2013 bmpcc 4k. I am strongly considering going with the viltrox after watching this. Thanks again, great presentation! Good luck
One huge thing that I've run into is the flare when indoors backlit daylight through a window. I would say it is still somewhat sharp on my 18-35, but the biggest issue is loss of contrast and accurate color. It washes out the image considerably. Also at sunset when I'm filming couples portraits I get the same effect if the sun is in the frame. If you don't have a direct backlit light source the viltrox Ef-m2ii performs very well, but the second you backlight you lose enough quality where I would consider upgrading to metabones. Great comparison Gerald! I've always loved your videos! Edit - I've tested this with and without the Viltrox and the difference is very noticeable!
What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones
Once again...another fantastic video from you! I have 3 of the Viltrox models, (1) ver.-1 and (2) ver.-2's. Using them on 2 BMPK4K's and a GH5S. You're right about getting parfocal for the entire range. I always thought it was the lenses and not the back focus adjustments. After testing, one ver. 2 was dead on from the start but I had to adjust the others. Now the Sigma 18-35, 50-100 and Canon 70-200 2.8 mk2 all stay in focus through the entire range. Keep up the good, thorough, exhaustive, comprehensive...etc work! LOL. BTW, Ver.-1 is not nearly as bad as people claim.
I've been using Viltrox EF-M2 mark 1 with Sigma 18-35 and 50 for a year now and do not understand the hate! The softness is kind of like a built-in "pro mist filter", haha.. Viltrox is a great product for a dirt cheap price. Sadly after purchasing Meike Cine lenses 16 and 25, the Sigmas seem so ancient... there is no competition when it comes to handling the lens, Meike wins hands down. Also love how compact the Meike is compared to 18-35 with a speedbooster. Oh, yeah, if you want a good adapter without speedboosting or image quality loss, go with the Viltrox EF-M1 (adapted), works great!
It's ironic how the only people that really care about ultra sharpness and clarity are reviewers. 99% of real world photographers and videographers use mist filters/diffusers, ND filters, post production softening techniques to emulate older technology that all affect the image to a great degree because that's what people actually gravitate towards and what is more appealing to the eye. One look at any social media site and the look that people want isn't necessarily the sharpest possible image. Unless it's sports or animal documentaries, sharpness is absolutely important but shouldn't be the top priority for most people looking for new gear; when, much like in this case it's literally splitting hairs.
The main difference between Viltrox and Metabones is the flare and keeping contrast at full aperture even if the light source is not in the frame, direct to the camera. The difference in performances there (flare side) is huge. It's something you should include into the comparison because lots of people would regret buying the Viltrox when they discover that.
Thanks for sharing this. I have had the same experience. When backlighting a subject (for instance at sunset) washes out the image and essentially flares the entire image loosing some sharpness but mostly destroys the contrast. Tested without the Viltrox efm2 mkii with my Sigma 18-35 and the flare went away. It's almost now worth it to me to shoot with a straight adapter now or upgrade to metabones.
@@NolanGunn What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones.
I just picked up the Pixco speed booster, 2 days ago. Just $89 US on Amazon. I picked up the FD > MFT converter for classic Canon FD glass, which are all manual, and mine are primes. So the electronics are not an issue to me, only the glass and the mount quality. And while I haven't done pixel peeping just yet, the images immediately look sharper and brighter. My Canon FD 50/1.4 was already tack sharp and now is a tack sharp 35 mm/1.0. My 28/2.8 FD was only okay before. But now seems to be a much more crisp 20 mm/2.0. And the mounting both camera and lens side seem to be pretty much spot-on. So over all great value and highly recommended.
:) I love Viltrox speedboosters. Good to see they're getting better and closing that Metabones gap. I just hope they don't price creep. Appreciate the tests. Thanks Gerald.
Genuinely wouldn't be surprised if Wizard Gerald's next video was 'how I made my last video on my own and made it look like someone was holding the camera' 😂
woah that ending caught me off guard man, almost got a heart attack also really considering to get one of those Viltrox speedboosters now, primarily for adapting vintage glass to EF, then to MFT like my Meyer-optik Primotar or Zeiss QBM Planar
Thanks for the comparison Gerald, also helping me and my brother as newbies with a ton of your other videos so thank you! Picked up the Viltrox with your link just now 👌
When I tested Metabones and Viltrox with my BMPCC 4k, it wasn't even a question of how superior Metabones was. It retained full sharpness wide open to max aperture and it remained scary sharp while the Viltrox struggled faster than f/2.5. I also noticed some flaring with the Viltrox due to the lower quality optics. The durability and electronic responsiveness when adjusting settings was also more reliable on the Metabones. There was a clear winner to me but still, the Viltrox is so affordable it's worth starting out there.
Hi, which metabones version ar you talking about? is it the one exclusive to BMPCC 4k or the one for all MFT cameras? I'm debating whether I should get the "generic" one(about $400 on eBay) or the specifically designed one($600+) for my BMPCC 4k. Thank you in advance!
Freaking weird dude. JUST ordered the Bmpcc 4k last week with the viltrox ef-m2 II....and it will be paired with my already owned Sigma 18-35....then you release a video about that exact set up. What is life 😂
THANK you. i have all 3 in my cart between amazon and ebay and i'm anxiously trying to figure out wtf speedbooster of the 1 million in existence to use for the sigma 18-35mm and my BMPCC4K!!! I NEED TO SEE THIS SET UP )also if anyone can use them on the DJI RONIN S and how it handles all the weight! and i'll be set!
@@LinusKnight Replying to all a bit delayed, no the one-touch AF did not work for me. I ended up getting the follow focus unit for the ronin. Ive had no problems balancing the bmpcc+viltrox+sigma in its cage with the follow focus unit. The ronin-s is a beast, though you might need a cheese plate to offset the balance without a cage. Make Art Now has a video on that.
How the hell do you know ALL THIS SHIT? Well thanx bro for explaining all this to a dummy like me and making me understand the physics behind it all :)
@@aeroxtreme15 There are a couple of videos comparing different speedboosters. You can see that the Viltrox is wider than Metabones, Pixco, Zhingyi Turbo (or whatever it's called) etc. In one of the videos, the reviewer says explicitly that the Viltrox is 0.68x...so I assume he has measured it somehow. I'm fairly confident prime lenses were used in the videos, so there's no chance it was a mistake
@@Albanez39 I see, thanks for info. I'm planning to but this speed booster when I get the Panasonic G9 in January. I'm still confused on finding the the right equation for using crop sensor lenses for mft. I know when using ff lenses you times it to 1.9 or 2 then times it again with the focal reducer. How about using crop lenses.
@@aeroxtreme15 Okay, so...Lenses are always advertised in 35mm/FF focal length standard. That's why the classic zoom lens for FF is 24-70mm, while the Micro4/3 lens is 12-35mm. You always have to calculate the actual focal length yourself. If you used the 12-35mm lens on a FF camera, that would be the actual focal length, but on the Panasonic G9, the actual FL of that lens will be 24-70mm. So, if you compared a photo taken with a Canon FF camera on a 24mm focal length, with a photo taken with the G9 on a 12mm focal length, it would be the same... For every lens you'll have, be it a native Panasonic lens, or a Canon EF lens, or a vintage Russian lens, you'll have to multiply it's Focal Length by 2 to know the actual FL you're shooting on. This is for Panasonic Micro4/3 cameras; If you're using a Sony a6500 or a Canon 7D, you'll be dealing with an APS sensor, which is between 1.4 to 1.6 times (depending on brand) smaller than FF. Crop sensor lenses are built the same way as FF lenses, they just have lower diameter glass since they have a smaller sensor to cover. That's one reason why you can't adapt crop lenses on an FF camera, but you can adapt FF lenses on a crop camera. The other reason is Focal Flange Distance (FFD), which is often shorter on crop sensors and mirrorless cameras. This is the distance between the sensor/film and the rear element of the lens. Since Canon EF has a longer FFD than Micro4/3, you can adapt EF lenses on a Panasonic G9...but you can't do the opposite. FFD has nothing to do with sensor and lens dimension, it's just that newer mirrorless cameras have chosen to use a shorter FFD to allow you to use older lenses. e.g. You can't adapt Canon, M42, M39, OM lenses on a Nikon F camera, because Nikon F has one of the largest FFDs. But you can adapt all of the lenses I mentioned on a Panasonic G9. If you mount a smaller FFD lens on a bigger FFD camera, the rear element might end up touching the sensor and damaging it. This is something to be careful about! As long as the lens you want to adapt has a Larger/Longer FDD and was made for a Bigger sensor than your Panasonic G9, you can adapt it! Just make sure to find the right adapter, and that its quality is good enough. Most adapters will account for FFD and they'll have a specific length/depth to allow you to reach infinity focus...but some of the cheaper ones have an incorrect length/depth and you won't be able to focus to infinity. Good adapters (no element or electrical contacts) cost between $5 and $25. If they cost more, they have some additional feature (macro extension, electric contacts, shift capabilities, built in ND filters etc.) or are simply overpriced. Speedboosters are basically adapters which contain an element inside. This element takes the light rays coming through the lens, and concentrates them on the sensor. Since the lens is made for a bigger sensor, some of the light going through the lens would end up outside the sensor if a cheap adapter were to be used. With a speedbooster you gain more light and the focal length gets reduced a bit. I personally recommend the Viltrox. It's AS GOOD AS the overpriced Metabones speedboosters, while being more efficient (x0.68 instead of x0.71) and having a tighter fit. Metabones is often loose on the camera from what I read... As for the lenses, you'll save a great deal of money if you already own SLR lenses (Canon, Nikon, etc.)...you won't need to buy expensive Micro4/3 glass...but I suggest you get the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you'll be using your camera for video. You'll get Dual Stabilization (body and lens) and you'll have a great little lens for the streets, while traveling and so on; Micro4/3 lenses are incredibly small compared to those massive FF lenses, perhaps that's why they cost a lot. Probably the best tip I'll be giving you today: Find and buy vintage lenses!!! The Soviet M42 and M39 lenses are incredibly unique, mainly because of their swirly bokeh and creamy look. Japanese and German lenses are incredibly sharp, and you'll be baffled to find out that you can buy a great Canon FD prime for $30, while a modern Panasonic prime will cost you hundreds or thousands of Dollars/Euros. Check antique shops, garage sales, open air bazaars and what not. If you live in the US or a big European country, you'll find lots of vintage lenses in such places, and they're usually sold by people that have no idea of their value. If you're like me and don't have a lot of access to such lenses, ebay might be a great solutions. They are a bit more expensive online, but they're worth it if you can afford them. My end goal in regards to lenses is to own as many different Helios, Industar, Mir, Vega (Soviet) lenses, while also owning a complete set of Canon FD or Carl Zeiss primes for shooting video. Plus the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 for the stabilization, accurate colour rendition and other features that only modern (and native) lenses have.
Thanks man! Your BlackMagic videos have really helped me out. This is a huge purchase for me but I have been taking your advice. The camera should be in next month, can't wait to show you all what I am building~!
For those wondering…. Focus like once. I find on a far away object like a chain link fence though a focus card like his works better…. Then zoom out wide.. no tin focus? Rarely is.. and start adjusting rear rear optic…. (Back focus) is the term. Then zoom back in…. Looks good? Zoom back out…. Final adjustment.. then for laughs check mid distance. When I used broadcast cameras I would do it every week…. Temperature changes metal swelling in multiple pieces of different types and sizes of metal. That’s why broadcast has a thumb screw and a full sized ring (think of a 2nd aperture ring at the back of a broadcast lens). Backfocus becomes easy and quick.
I was surprised how well the autofocus worked on both adapters, I've barely even tried to video autofocus with either of my Metabones adapters (EF to E and EF to M43). One thing I would say is that the Metabones was able to track your face pretty well, but the background was pulsing the entire time. I wouldn't consider this usable for anything other than a Vlog-style video. Great video and I love your new transitions and the hand held camera work
@Gerald Undone I would love to see an episode talking about and comparing Canon EF-S glass on the 0.71x speedboosters. I know everyone uses the Sigma 18-35mm, but for example, I've heard good things about the Canon 17-55mm which would get you to f/2 with lens stabilization. But my understanding is also that you also have to remove some stuff off of the back of the lens to make EF-S lenses work... Anyway, it seems like there's maybe enough there to do a short episode about!
Brilliant information. Thank you. Technically the best YT photography reviewer out there by far. I own the Canon M50. Love its compactness etc and was considering a speed booster for adapting ef L lenses in the future for that almost full frame look and the better low light performance of the aperture change. All the best 👍📷
I had the Metabones originally on my GH5 and tried out the Viltrox MKI and agreed the quality difference wasnt worth the swap. But I tried the new MKII with the newest firmware and swapped to viltrox a week later. The auto focus didnt bother me since I don't do VLOGS or anything along that line. But I honestly dont notice a difference in my workflow or video quality since swapping. I only notice the extra $300 i got back.
@@imiy Sensor image stabilization works with any lens, but you won't have Dual IS since you are not using native Panasonic lenses. Panasonic's internal stabilization is better than in every other DSLM, but you won't get that impeccable stabilization the GH5 is known for. IBIS is so good just because the sensor and lens work together.
@@imiy Not very familiar with the Blackmagic 4K. Are you talking about Electronic IS inside the camera, or lens stabilization (Vibration Control etc.)? EIS should work if the Blackmagic has that feature. As for lens stabilization I have no idea...it should work as long as the speedbooster has electrical contacts. I have never been satisfied with Vibration Control in EF lenses though...seems like placebo more than actual stabilization.
you solved my problem as deciding between the Viltrox Mark ll vs the high price Metabones. You let me know the Viltrox was very capable of giving me what I wanted as far as sharpeness ,quality
I am fine with my Viltrox MII I only use Manual focus lenses. I did notice that had to turn my inner glass on the Viltrox all the way to get infinity focus which you will not get with your parafocal test. You should have done a infinity focus on all of them. Mine was not getting even close to infinity until I turned it all the way.. thanks!
It’s probably a good idea to mention that by changing a focal reducers back focus adjustment to try and make a zoom more par focal means you’re likely tailoring it to a lens specifically and might screw up the back focus for other lenses... Example is if you mix primes and zooms or have multiple zooms.
A speed booster with the Sigma 18-35mm zoom was a big thing back in the day. I missed the party because I didn't get a BMPCC4K until last summer. This is an interesting video, but I never considered going the speed booster route because I'm already so happy with my collection of micro 4/3 lenses. The Sigma has 17 elements in 12 groups 810 grams. The Metabones speed booster has 6 elements in 4 groups 300 grams. You end up with a beast of a lens with 23 elements in 16 groups that weighs 1,110 grams and costs US$1,348. The Olympus 12-40mm f2.8 native mft lens has a reasonable 14 elements in 9 groups, weighs 382 grams and costs $999. I only use zoom lenses outdoors so I'm happy with an Olympus 12-45mm f4 lens that weighs just 254 grams.
It would be very cool if you could compare the viltrox EF II with the viltrox nikon mount version. I know that not many people care about Nikon lenses this days but... I do :) . Great video man as always! Have a great one!
TIPS FOR 1st GEN VILTROX: After some surgery I just managed to adjust my Viltrox EF-M2 (first gen) to get my Sigma DC 17-50 parfocal. The problem I encountered was that I couldn't turn the speedboster lens enough to arrive at the parfocal point. So I screwed off and removed the lens and saw some heat-glue protruding on the inside of the circular pcb-board wich I removed with a bent surgury knife. After that I could screw the lens about one turn more then before and that was enough to hit the spot of parfocalness! Hope this helps someone else as well!
5% less sharpness is not an issue. But the loose play when mounted might be a deal breaker. Consider we use manual focus for GH5 and bmpcc 4k. If you rack focus and the lens has loose play, it will shows in the image.
One of the big things I feel was missing from this video is the optical characteristics of the three adapters. In my experience the EF-M2 was more prone to flaring and contrast reduction. So flagging the lens, if possible, was more important.
I find myself always wanting to rent instead of buying cameras these days, albeit I will be buying a small camera to replace my old unit that I keep around.
Gerald, this is an important question. Please tell me that you have some kind of a script when you’re doing this amazing information download to us viewers. Because if you don’t, it’s clear that you are actually a sentient being from another universe, that clearly is purple.
You mentioned that the difference between the boosters might show up more when the lens is a wider focal length and opened at a larger aperture, but when you compared the boosters you did not mention either the focal length or the aperture. I wonder if the lens was set at the most “demanding” setting of wide open aperture and widest focal length?
Maybe Viltrox aims at users leaving the adapter on the lens. I remember reading somewhere photojournalists like the the play on old Nikon camera because it make changing lenses quicker. Not sure, on this point, that Viltrox aimed at that ... perhaps it's a production control issue. From what I read, if you have the money, get Metabones - if you don't, Viltrox gives you the best cost/benefit solution.
There is another factor at play here. While the Blackmagic mount is MFT and there is a presumption that the sensor is MFT, it is not. It is more correctly a Super-16 sensor. MFT sensors are 17.3mm x 13mm, while the Blackmagic sensor is 18.96 x 10mm. While it doesn’t seem like much, it is 9.16% wider and so is more significant than people realise. That extra width would have factored into the need for the new design in addition to sensor stack thickness. BTW, I discovered something new I had not considered before in regard to parfocalness. I made an inquiry to Sony support regarding parfocalness of the 10-18mm f4 and 18-105mm f4. The answer was that neither lens is technically parfocal but that the lens instructs the body to use CAF to give the same de facto result as being parfocal. It seems electronics is upending our expectations of hardware :) it also means that in some circumstances the lens might not behave precisely as we expect if the solution was hardware based, but has the benefit of relatively lower price for the performance level.
Quick question! The play you get with the viltrox, will that be an issue during manual focus? Will you see a bit of jostle when you’re turning the focus ring? Great video, and very honest.
Hi Gerald! There is one advantage that the Metabones has that I do not think is available on the Viltrox versions. In that the Metabones can drive some lenses (such as my original EF 300mm F2.8L, EF or the EF85 1.2L or the two Canon hybrid EF cinema zooms) that need power to focus on cameras such as the GH5 which does not pass power from the camera to those lenses and several others. This can be done by feeding power from the smallest 5V 1.amp power bank to the micro usb input socket on the Metabones which can be easily added to a camera or rig with some inventiveness! 😎🙏🏾
Thanks for this super informative video. At the start, you mentioned that you are using the the bmpcc4k and a metabones .712 speedbooster to shoot the video. Can you tell us what lens you are using, and the distance (approx) you are from the camera at the start?
I see the latest price for the BMPCC 6k is at $1995.00 - does that make for a better purchase, being that with this BMPCC 4k($1300.00) - Adding the metabones ($695.00) $1900.00 - Doesnt it make sense to purchase the 6k - being that it is a "EF" mount?
I believe the bulk of cost is the lens elements on these adapters. Lenses are built with high precision mechanical devices - chips are cheap, mechanics is expensive. This last result (15:24) made me want to save money and get the Metabones. Oh ... I take photos mostly and depending on the use, I'd get one Viltrox for each lens and go with it! BTW, from what I know, the focus thing is firmware correctable. It seems Metabones people did a really awesome job on improving the camera autofocus by adding some dampening in the system. I wonder if Viltrox had an open API for the firmware ...
What focus the image is the lens - that's basically its job - but what sets the lens on focus is the camera. The uncertain focus is a characteristic of Lumix cameras - a better comparison would the adapter against a similar native MFT lens.
i see where the new metabones excel but still doesnt justify the price difference! i gone with the viltrox. thanks for these videos. and fuck your intro, this tune plays in my head the whole day :D:D TAM DAM TARADADAMMM
Having used both the Metabones wins by a mile. Let me break it down. Yes, the Viltrox is cheaper... but, you can get a used Metabones, and there, the difference, gets much smaller. The Viltrox flares like crazy. I'm not talking about nice flares that add to your images. I'm talking about a solid wash over the image that makes you do lighting acrobatics to get them off. Not with the Metabones. Not at all. Also, the Metabones seem to add quality to your glass. I myself use Nikon lenses (all manual) and the quality I get out of the AIS lenses is insane. I switch to a Nikon camera and they are not as sharp. Third. The Viltrox washes your colors a bit. Don't ask me why or how, these are things I noticed after two years of working with both adapters. You hit it right on the money about the wiggling on the Viltrox. THIS WILL AFFECT YOUR FOCUS. BIG TIME. I pair the camera with a Nikon 80-200 f2.8. At 200mm getting focus is mind-boggling horrible. The Viltrox washes your image and it becomes harder and harder to find a sweet spot. I have gone back and forth between both of them and yes, the Metabones wins by a lot. Better quality. Better glass. Far more reliable and... always looks better. Now, are you on a budget and you can't afford one? The VIltorx will do the job... but beware, the ballet for quality is going to be present at all times. You can work around the quirks... but the quirks will be there. Can you add them to your style of shooting? Sure... but be aware that matching with other cameras will be a challenge. Thanks for this review. M.
Hi Gerald, I'm just wondering, are you trusting the peaking without really checking focus for these tests. I mean I have experienced very slight out of focus images when using peaking alone.. But anyways, thanks for all you're doing, I'm amazed.. Cheers, Steen.
I believe the metabones is measured in T* where as the VILTROX may be f* by the sounds of it. That would account for the difference in iris display. Not sure it's to do with just rounding up or down. The T* calculation accounts for actual optical transmission not just the theoretical equation. Not sure if that is helpful to anybody but I believe that's the discrepancy in those read outs.
It’s a good idea to gave more than 1 focal reducer/ speed booster as I realized after switching my sigma 18-35 off for my canon 24-105 lens and couldn’t really find the infinity focus spot...needed to adjust the back focus again...so now I just leave the adapter on each respective lens. Oh and I was able to get the 0.71 ultra metabones for 300 on kijiji!
Yeah, I also like marrying them to the lens. But for those on a budget, the next best thing is putting little marks on the reducer so you can switch back and forth.
🔥
I love your videos bro I got a lumix G7 cuz you have one same with my 60D can you make a video on what settings you use on the Lumix G7
@@BadKarma714 Check out DSLR Video Shooter. Caleb makes great guides on individual cameras, and they are pretty cheap as well. Worth the price if you ask me, you'll learn everything that there is to know about the G7.
Remember kids, it sounds better if you talk INTO the microphone. 🤣🤷♂️
The automated noise reduction in Resolve seemed to hate it when I was off-axis--it made for a very muffled sound. But it only showed up on export and only for the first couple seconds of the clip. It sounded normal during playback. I wish there was a way to "apply" the effect like you can in Audition and most DAWs. Also, thumbs up if you stayed to hear the surprise at 19:47. 🤣👍
Lool again you basically nailed the Beta testing of DR by accident! xD 18 videos later, maybe their soft will end up being perfect, once you'll have missed the color grading after hitting the ND filter with your arm, & once you'll have sneezed while holding the tripod, & we'll discover some new quirks of DR Digital IS ... :D can't wait ^^ → DR brand new *Sneeze Shot Stabilization*
You stay classy, Gerald Undone
I don't even own a BMPCC4k and I still watched. When I see purple and Gerald, I click.
Gerald I’ve been here since your 6K subscriber days. So happy for your success. Your videos are an immense treasure trove of information for the community.
Thanks, Jesse! That means a lot. Appreciate your continued support and viewership. Cheers! 😃🙏💜
@@kezzatube45 Cheers
Finally an in depth, objective as much as possible and honest review of the speedboosters. Subscribing to this channel.
Good to see you venturing outside, hope it wasn't too scary :) As to the content, very good and highly informative so thanks for that.
I use the Viltrox EF-M2 II on my Pocket 4K and have had nothing but pleasant experiences with it. When I'm wide open with my Rokinons, it does look very soft, but if stopped down to 2, the sharpness comes right back. I'm glad I didn't spend all that extra money on the Metabones, personally. Thank you for comparing these, as it proves you can finally buy an affordable AND high quality focal reducer.
Yeah man, same. Although the contact on the Viltrox went out after 6 months. Optical quality is legit tho.
I've heard you are not able to use manual focus lenses on the viltrox, is that accurate for the ef-m2?
@@chiokehart-kelly3481 Not true. I'm using the Rokinon Cine DS lens set with my Viltrox. Works just fine.
Is that lens normally soft or does it only get soft on the speedbooster? If so then what's the point of getting the extra stop of light if you can't even use it?
Is anybody faced blurred image problem when using Viltrox and Rokinon? I changed 2 wide angle lenses because of this problem and still didn’t get rid off!
Seems like the viltrox+cropping and a little post sharpening would save some money and still be a good combo! Great video Gerald👌🏽👌🏽
It’s insane I’ve waited for this review for almost 2 years wow. Thank you!
That parafocal hack man... is AWESOME!! I now have a parafocal 18-35 Hurray!!!
Hello Gerald
That's insane.
My Setup: Bmpcc4k, Metabones and Sigma 18-35
I use my bmpcc4 the Edelkrone Headplus and the Focus Module. Depending on the focal length, the focus was not right. I would never have come up with the idea to adjust this on my Metabone. Now it works perfectly. Thank you!
I don't have a MFT Camera. I don't use any adapters of any kind. I still watched the whole video. You're just incredibly thorough and I love the content. ✌️
Thanks so much! 😃🙏
I’m using the viltrox .71x adapter on my BMPCC4k and I never had an issue with it being really tight on the lens and it being a little loose on the BMPCC4k. Mine fit perfectly!
Dude, thanks, really interesting. I am a newb. I just got the 2013 bmpcc 4k. I am strongly considering going with the viltrox after watching this. Thanks again, great presentation! Good luck
“I’m Gerald Undone and I only wanted to see you laughing in the purple rain”
One huge thing that I've run into is the flare when indoors backlit daylight through a window. I would say it is still somewhat sharp on my 18-35, but the biggest issue is loss of contrast and accurate color. It washes out the image considerably. Also at sunset when I'm filming couples portraits I get the same effect if the sun is in the frame. If you don't have a direct backlit light source the viltrox Ef-m2ii performs very well, but the second you backlight you lose enough quality where I would consider upgrading to metabones. Great comparison Gerald! I've always loved your videos! Edit - I've tested this with and without the Viltrox and the difference is very noticeable!
What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones
@@mogyesz225 I'll try it! Have you heard of that being the issue?
Once again...another fantastic video from you! I have 3 of the Viltrox models, (1) ver.-1 and (2) ver.-2's. Using them on 2 BMPK4K's and a GH5S. You're right about getting parfocal for the entire range. I always thought it was the lenses and not the back focus adjustments. After testing, one ver. 2 was dead on from the start but I had to adjust the others. Now the Sigma 18-35, 50-100 and Canon 70-200 2.8 mk2 all stay in focus through the entire range. Keep up the good, thorough, exhaustive, comprehensive...etc work! LOL. BTW, Ver.-1 is not nearly as bad as people claim.
I'm so ready for the Magic Lantern Raw vs. Blackmagic Raw video... Lets get UNDONE!!!!
like it's 1999
Thomas Donalek like it’s 2009
I've been using Viltrox EF-M2 mark 1 with Sigma 18-35 and 50 for a year now and do not understand the hate! The softness is kind of like a built-in "pro mist filter", haha.. Viltrox is a great product for a dirt cheap price. Sadly after purchasing Meike Cine lenses 16 and 25, the Sigmas seem so ancient... there is no competition when it comes to handling the lens, Meike wins hands down. Also love how compact the Meike is compared to 18-35 with a speedbooster. Oh, yeah, if you want a good adapter without speedboosting or image quality loss, go with the Viltrox EF-M1 (adapted), works great!
It's ironic how the only people that really care about ultra sharpness and clarity are reviewers. 99% of real world photographers and videographers use mist filters/diffusers, ND filters, post production softening techniques to emulate older technology that all affect the image to a great degree because that's what people actually gravitate towards and what is more appealing to the eye. One look at any social media site and the look that people want isn't necessarily the sharpest possible image. Unless it's sports or animal documentaries, sharpness is absolutely important but shouldn't be the top priority for most people looking for new gear; when, much like in this case it's literally splitting hairs.
The main difference between Viltrox and Metabones is the flare and keeping contrast at full aperture even if the light source is not in the frame, direct to the camera.
The difference in performances there (flare side) is huge. It's something you should include into the comparison because lots of people would regret buying the Viltrox when they discover that.
Even the Mark II viltrox? Does this happen on the Mark II viltrox too?
Thanks for sharing this. I have had the same experience. When backlighting a subject (for instance at sunset) washes out the image and essentially flares the entire image loosing some sharpness but mostly destroys the contrast. Tested without the Viltrox efm2 mkii with my Sigma 18-35 and the flare went away. It's almost now worth it to me to shoot with a straight adapter now or upgrade to metabones.
@@NolanGunn What if you put black tape around the connection so the light doesn't leak in? I know it's not a professional solution, but considering Viltrox's price this shouldn't be a reason to pay 4 times more for the Metabones.
I just picked up the Pixco speed booster, 2 days ago. Just $89 US on Amazon. I picked up the FD > MFT converter for classic Canon FD glass, which are all manual, and mine are primes. So the electronics are not an issue to me, only the glass and the mount quality. And while I haven't done pixel peeping just yet, the images immediately look sharper and brighter. My Canon FD 50/1.4 was already tack sharp and now is a tack sharp 35 mm/1.0. My 28/2.8 FD was only okay before. But now seems to be a much more crisp 20 mm/2.0. And the mounting both camera and lens side seem to be pretty much spot-on. So over all great value and highly recommended.
The Portraitist Do you have any video with the Pixco speedbooster and Canon Fd lenses with thr bmpcc 4k ?
@@SiloneulaFishingProductions H. No, I use it with a Lumix G85.
:) I love Viltrox speedboosters. Good to see they're getting better and closing that Metabones gap. I just hope they don't price creep.
Appreciate the tests. Thanks Gerald.
Every time I need technical question answered about cameras/video I look to see if you have done a video on it 👌🏽 just what I needed thank you!
Moving outside to get more samples and examples! Amazing work, appreciate your efforts!
Genuinely wouldn't be surprised if Wizard Gerald's next video was 'how I made my last video on my own and made it look like someone was holding the camera' 😂
Very informative video, thank for the comparison and the tip on how to make zoom lenses parfocal!
woah that ending caught me off guard man, almost got a heart attack
also really considering to get one of those Viltrox speedboosters now, primarily for adapting vintage glass to EF, then to MFT like my Meyer-optik Primotar or Zeiss QBM Planar
I have no idea what he is talking, but I like it!
Thanks for the comparison Gerald, also helping me and my brother as newbies with a ton of your other videos so thank you! Picked up the Viltrox with your link just now 👌
When I tested Metabones and Viltrox with my BMPCC 4k, it wasn't even a question of how superior Metabones was. It retained full sharpness wide open to max aperture and it remained scary sharp while the Viltrox struggled faster than f/2.5. I also noticed some flaring with the Viltrox due to the lower quality optics. The durability and electronic responsiveness when adjusting settings was also more reliable on the Metabones. There was a clear winner to me but still, the Viltrox is so affordable it's worth starting out there.
Hi, which metabones version ar you talking about? is it the one exclusive to BMPCC 4k or the one for all MFT cameras? I'm debating whether I should get the "generic" one(about $400 on eBay) or the specifically designed one($600+) for my BMPCC 4k. Thank you in advance!
Love my G85 and sigma 18-35 combo with viltrox EF-M2. So much value
Freaking weird dude. JUST ordered the Bmpcc 4k last week with the viltrox ef-m2 II....and it will be paired with my already owned Sigma 18-35....then you release a video about that exact set up. What is life 😂
Did the auto focus worked for you? thanks
does it work with cannon lense?
Super keen to hear your experience
THANK you. i have all 3 in my cart between amazon and ebay and i'm anxiously trying to figure out wtf speedbooster of the 1 million in existence to use for the sigma 18-35mm and my BMPCC4K!!! I NEED TO SEE THIS SET UP )also if anyone can use them on the DJI RONIN S and how it handles all the weight! and i'll be set!
@@LinusKnight Replying to all a bit delayed, no the one-touch AF did not work for me. I ended up getting the follow focus unit for the ronin. Ive had no problems balancing the bmpcc+viltrox+sigma in its cage with the follow focus unit. The ronin-s is a beast, though you might need a cheese plate to offset the balance without a cage. Make Art Now has a video on that.
How the hell do you know ALL THIS SHIT?
Well thanx bro for explaining all this to a dummy like me and making me understand the physics behind it all :)
When I saw that Thumbnail face in my sub feed I felt blessed. 💙
Gorgeous.
The Viltrox EF-M2 is actually an x0.68 reducer.
They market it as x0.71 since it's a more popular reduction ratio.
Really? I thought that viltrox is only 0.71x
Thanks for the info!
@@aeroxtreme15 There are a couple of videos comparing different speedboosters. You can see that the Viltrox is wider than Metabones, Pixco, Zhingyi Turbo (or whatever it's called) etc. In one of the videos, the reviewer says explicitly that the Viltrox is 0.68x...so I assume he has measured it somehow. I'm fairly confident prime lenses were used in the videos, so there's no chance it was a mistake
@@Albanez39 I see, thanks for info. I'm planning to but this speed booster when I get the Panasonic G9 in January. I'm still confused on finding the the right equation for using crop sensor lenses for mft. I know when using ff lenses you times it to 1.9 or 2 then times it again with the focal reducer. How about using crop lenses.
@@aeroxtreme15 Okay, so...Lenses are always advertised in 35mm/FF focal length standard. That's why the classic zoom lens for FF is 24-70mm, while the Micro4/3 lens is 12-35mm. You always have to calculate the actual focal length yourself. If you used the 12-35mm lens on a FF camera, that would be the actual focal length, but on the Panasonic G9, the actual FL of that lens will be 24-70mm.
So, if you compared a photo taken with a Canon FF camera on a 24mm focal length, with a photo taken with the G9 on a 12mm focal length, it would be the same...
For every lens you'll have, be it a native Panasonic lens, or a Canon EF lens, or a vintage Russian lens, you'll have to multiply it's Focal Length by 2 to know the actual FL you're shooting on. This is for Panasonic Micro4/3 cameras; If you're using a Sony a6500 or a Canon 7D, you'll be dealing with an APS sensor, which is between 1.4 to 1.6 times (depending on brand) smaller than FF.
Crop sensor lenses are built the same way as FF lenses, they just have lower diameter glass since they have a smaller sensor to cover. That's one reason why you can't adapt crop lenses on an FF camera, but you can adapt FF lenses on a crop camera. The other reason is Focal Flange Distance (FFD), which is often shorter on crop sensors and mirrorless cameras. This is the distance between the sensor/film and the rear element of the lens. Since Canon EF has a longer FFD than Micro4/3, you can adapt EF lenses on a Panasonic G9...but you can't do the opposite. FFD has nothing to do with sensor and lens dimension, it's just that newer mirrorless cameras have chosen to use a shorter FFD to allow you to use older lenses. e.g. You can't adapt Canon, M42, M39, OM lenses on a Nikon F camera, because Nikon F has one of the largest FFDs. But you can adapt all of the lenses I mentioned on a Panasonic G9.
If you mount a smaller FFD lens on a bigger FFD camera, the rear element might end up touching the sensor and damaging it. This is something to be careful about!
As long as the lens you want to adapt has a Larger/Longer FDD and was made for a Bigger sensor than your Panasonic G9, you can adapt it! Just make sure to find the right adapter, and that its quality is good enough. Most adapters will account for FFD and they'll have a specific length/depth to allow you to reach infinity focus...but some of the cheaper ones have an incorrect length/depth and you won't be able to focus to infinity. Good adapters (no element or electrical contacts) cost between $5 and $25. If they cost more, they have some additional feature (macro extension, electric contacts, shift capabilities, built in ND filters etc.) or are simply overpriced.
Speedboosters are basically adapters which contain an element inside. This element takes the light rays coming through the lens, and concentrates them on the sensor. Since the lens is made for a bigger sensor, some of the light going through the lens would end up outside the sensor if a cheap adapter were to be used. With a speedbooster you gain more light and the focal length gets reduced a bit.
I personally recommend the Viltrox. It's AS GOOD AS the overpriced Metabones speedboosters, while being more efficient (x0.68 instead of x0.71) and having a tighter fit. Metabones is often loose on the camera from what I read...
As for the lenses, you'll save a great deal of money if you already own SLR lenses (Canon, Nikon, etc.)...you won't need to buy expensive Micro4/3 glass...but I suggest you get the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you'll be using your camera for video. You'll get Dual Stabilization (body and lens) and you'll have a great little lens for the streets, while traveling and so on; Micro4/3 lenses are incredibly small compared to those massive FF lenses, perhaps that's why they cost a lot.
Probably the best tip I'll be giving you today: Find and buy vintage lenses!!! The Soviet M42 and M39 lenses are incredibly unique, mainly because of their swirly bokeh and creamy look. Japanese and German lenses are incredibly sharp, and you'll be baffled to find out that you can buy a great Canon FD prime for $30, while a modern Panasonic prime will cost you hundreds or thousands of Dollars/Euros.
Check antique shops, garage sales, open air bazaars and what not. If you live in the US or a big European country, you'll find lots of vintage lenses in such places, and they're usually sold by people that have no idea of their value. If you're like me and don't have a lot of access to such lenses, ebay might be a great solutions. They are a bit more expensive online, but they're worth it if you can afford them.
My end goal in regards to lenses is to own as many different Helios, Industar, Mir, Vega (Soviet) lenses, while also owning a complete set of Canon FD or Carl Zeiss primes for shooting video. Plus the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 for the stabilization, accurate colour rendition and other features that only modern (and native) lenses have.
But lower is better in this case anyway.
Thanks man! Your BlackMagic videos have really helped me out. This is a huge purchase for me but I have been taking your advice. The camera should be in next month, can't wait to show you all what I am building~!
Tip: When back focusing a lens. Find the minimum focal distance and adjust to that. You won't have to "trial and error" to find perfect parafocal.
Dustin Gillum can you elaborate please? Thank You.
What do you mean?
For those wondering…. Focus like once. I find on a far away object like a chain link fence though a focus card like his works better…. Then zoom out wide.. no tin focus? Rarely is.. and start adjusting rear rear optic…. (Back focus) is the term. Then zoom back in…. Looks good? Zoom back out…. Final adjustment.. then for laughs check mid distance. When I used broadcast cameras I would do it every week…. Temperature changes metal swelling in multiple pieces of different types and sizes of metal. That’s why broadcast has a thumb screw and a full sized ring (think of a 2nd aperture ring at the back of a broadcast lens). Backfocus becomes easy and quick.
this guy is one of the most reasonable guys on you tube.
12:11 Blackmagic Marker really threw me for a moment haha
own the viltrox ef-2 for a couple of years...love them.
I was surprised how well the autofocus worked on both adapters, I've barely even tried to video autofocus with either of my Metabones adapters (EF to E and EF to M43). One thing I would say is that the Metabones was able to track your face pretty well, but the background was pulsing the entire time. I wouldn't consider this usable for anything other than a Vlog-style video. Great video and I love your new transitions and the hand held camera work
Thanks, Philip! And yeah, I agree. I think it was able to keep better focus because of the constant pulsing. But I agree on the usage.
@@geraldundone BMPCC seems do not have continue AF, what camera are you using for this test?
Next intro : what's happening everybody this is Garled undone and it's time to party!
@Gerald Undone I would love to see an episode talking about and comparing Canon EF-S glass on the 0.71x speedboosters. I know everyone uses the Sigma 18-35mm, but for example, I've heard good things about the Canon 17-55mm which would get you to f/2 with lens stabilization.
But my understanding is also that you also have to remove some stuff off of the back of the lens to make EF-S lenses work... Anyway, it seems like there's maybe enough there to do a short episode about!
Thanks for this comparison! You're the best!
Brilliant information. Thank you. Technically the best YT photography reviewer out there by far. I own the Canon M50. Love its compactness etc and was considering a speed booster for adapting ef L lenses in the future for that almost full frame look and the better low light performance of the aperture change.
All the best 👍📷
Nice work GU, just what I was looking for. Big thumbs up 👍
I had the Metabones originally on my GH5 and tried out the Viltrox MKI and agreed the quality difference wasnt worth the swap. But I tried the new MKII with the newest firmware and swapped to viltrox a week later. The auto focus didnt bother me since I don't do VLOGS or anything along that line. But I honestly dont notice a difference in my workflow or video quality since swapping. I only notice the extra $300 i got back.
What about image stabilization? Will it work with viltrox II?
@@imiy Sensor image stabilization works with any lens, but you won't have Dual IS since you are not using native Panasonic lenses. Panasonic's internal stabilization is better than in every other DSLM, but you won't get that impeccable stabilization the GH5 is known for. IBIS is so good just because the sensor and lens work together.
@@Albanez39 I actually own pocket 4k and being interested in whether the lens stabilization will work when using Metabones or Viltrox adapter.
@@imiy Not very familiar with the Blackmagic 4K. Are you talking about Electronic IS inside the camera, or lens stabilization (Vibration Control etc.)?
EIS should work if the Blackmagic has that feature. As for lens stabilization I have no idea...it should work as long as the speedbooster has electrical contacts. I have never been satisfied with Vibration Control in EF lenses though...seems like placebo more than actual stabilization.
@@imiy IS works with the Pocket 4K and the Viltrox (at least with my Canon 55-250mm)
Impressive accurate and useful. Thx a lot👍
you solved my problem as deciding between the Viltrox Mark ll vs the high price Metabones. You let me know the Viltrox was very capable of giving me what I wanted as far as sharpeness ,quality
I am fine with my Viltrox MII I only use Manual focus lenses. I did notice that had to turn my inner glass on the Viltrox all the way to get infinity focus which you will not get with your parafocal test. You should have done a infinity focus on all of them. Mine was not getting even close to infinity until I turned it all the way.. thanks!
And turn it all the way in the opposite way and you will make any lense a macro lense ;)
Thank you for the tip with the powerfocal :) it is much better now👍 amazing 😊
best thumbnail yet
It’s probably a good idea to mention that by changing a focal reducers back focus adjustment to try and make a zoom more par focal means you’re likely tailoring it to a lens specifically and might screw up the back focus for other lenses... Example is if you mix primes and zooms or have multiple zooms.
A speed booster with the Sigma 18-35mm zoom was a big thing back in the day. I missed the party because I didn't get a BMPCC4K until last summer. This is an interesting video, but I never considered going the speed booster route because I'm already so happy with my collection of micro 4/3 lenses. The Sigma has 17 elements in 12 groups 810 grams. The Metabones speed booster has 6 elements in 4 groups 300 grams. You end up with a beast of a lens with 23 elements in 16 groups that weighs 1,110 grams and costs US$1,348. The Olympus 12-40mm f2.8 native mft lens has a reasonable 14 elements in 9 groups, weighs 382 grams and costs $999. I only use zoom lenses outdoors so I'm happy with an Olympus 12-45mm f4 lens that weighs just 254 grams.
Dude, you should consider teaching. You explain things so clearly and very easy to follow!
Thanks so much, Gabe!
He is teaching! I come to class quite often!
It would be very cool if you could compare the viltrox EF II with the viltrox nikon mount version. I know that not many people care about Nikon lenses this days but... I do :) . Great video man as always! Have a great one!
I'm imagining the stack of Gerald's helper elves standing on each others' shoulders to match his height.
TIPS FOR 1st GEN VILTROX: After some surgery I just managed to adjust my Viltrox EF-M2 (first gen) to get my Sigma DC 17-50 parfocal. The problem I encountered was that I couldn't turn the speedboster lens enough to arrive at the parfocal point. So I screwed off and removed the lens and saw some heat-glue protruding on the inside of the circular pcb-board wich I removed with a bent surgury knife. After that I could screw the lens about one turn more then before and that was enough to hit the spot of parfocalness! Hope this helps someone else as well!
5% less sharpness is not an issue. But the loose play when mounted might be a deal breaker. Consider we use manual focus for GH5 and bmpcc 4k. If you rack focus and the lens has loose play, it will shows in the image.
The quality of your videos is insane its like zack snyder youtuber.
One of the big things I feel was missing from this video is the optical characteristics of the three adapters. In my experience the EF-M2 was more prone to flaring and contrast reduction. So flagging the lens, if possible, was more important.
Thank you for this very detailed insight 👍
Dude your gonna be hella popular one day all you need now is time.
Thanks! Answered all of the things I have been pondering.
I hit like just for the thumbnail before I even watched the video
These speed booster tests are great and all but they need a null test of how the image looks without any speed booster.
I find myself always wanting to rent instead of buying cameras these days, albeit I will be buying a small camera to replace my old unit that I keep around.
great content as usual!! keep up the good work!
What is the opinion on the szcam?
Gerald, this is an important question. Please tell me that you have some kind of a script when you’re doing this amazing information download to us viewers. Because if you don’t, it’s clear that you are actually a sentient being from another universe, that clearly is purple.
Was the autofocus test done on the bmpcc4K? That looks like it's tracking the subject moving forward/back, which I didn't think the pocket could do?
Next intro you should say "This town ain't big enough for the two of us"
"Telecentric" I'm impressed!
I approve of this thumbnail
I approve of your avatar! Haha. Thanks, Peter!
You mentioned that the difference between the boosters might show up more when the lens is a wider focal length and opened at a larger aperture, but when you compared the boosters you did not mention either the focal length or the aperture. I wonder if the lens was set at the most “demanding” setting of wide open aperture and widest focal length?
Maybe Viltrox aims at users leaving the adapter on the lens. I remember reading somewhere photojournalists like the the play on old Nikon camera because it make changing lenses quicker. Not sure, on this point, that Viltrox aimed at that ... perhaps it's a production control issue. From what I read, if you have the money, get Metabones - if you don't, Viltrox gives you the best cost/benefit solution.
There is another factor at play here. While the Blackmagic mount is MFT and there is a presumption that the sensor is MFT, it is not. It is more correctly a Super-16 sensor. MFT sensors are 17.3mm x 13mm, while the Blackmagic sensor is 18.96 x 10mm. While it doesn’t seem like much, it is 9.16% wider and so is more significant than people realise. That extra width would have factored into the need for the new design in addition to sensor stack thickness.
BTW, I discovered something new I had not considered before in regard to parfocalness. I made an inquiry to Sony support regarding parfocalness of the 10-18mm f4 and 18-105mm f4. The answer was that neither lens is technically parfocal but that the lens instructs the body to use CAF to give the same de facto result as being parfocal. It seems electronics is upending our expectations of hardware :) it also means that in some circumstances the lens might not behave precisely as we expect if the solution was hardware based, but has the benefit of relatively lower price for the performance level.
Gotta say I love the funny face thumbnail lol
Quick question! The play you get with the viltrox, will that be an issue during manual focus? Will you see a bit of jostle when you’re turning the focus ring?
Great video, and very honest.
Excellent stuff. A little manual focusing can make up for the slight autofocus difference. Viltrox not looking too shabby.
That intro was fantastic.
I’m here for the thumbnail 😂
Hi Gerald! There is one advantage that the Metabones has that I do not think is available on the Viltrox versions. In that the Metabones can drive some lenses (such as my original EF 300mm F2.8L, EF or the EF85 1.2L or the two Canon hybrid EF cinema zooms) that need power to focus on cameras such as the GH5 which does not pass power from the camera to those lenses and several others. This can be done by feeding power from the smallest 5V 1.amp power bank to the micro usb input socket on the Metabones which can be easily added to a camera or rig with some inventiveness! 😎🙏🏾
Why does Gerald look like an NPC doing a demo when he's doing the autofocus test 😂
Thanks for this super informative video. At the start, you mentioned that you are using the the bmpcc4k and a metabones .712 speedbooster to shoot the video. Can you tell us what lens you are using, and the distance (approx) you are from the camera at the start?
Great research there!
A rare day when Gerald's wife (I presume) has nothing going on and helps him film.
"it looks better than four times less money" amen brother
I see the latest price for the BMPCC 6k is at $1995.00 - does that make for a better purchase, being that with this BMPCC 4k($1300.00) - Adding the metabones ($695.00) $1900.00 - Doesnt it make sense to purchase the 6k - being that it is a "EF" mount?
no 4K Braw on bmpcck 4k
I believe the bulk of cost is the lens elements on these adapters. Lenses are built with high precision mechanical devices - chips are cheap, mechanics is expensive. This last result (15:24) made me want to save money and get the Metabones. Oh ... I take photos mostly and depending on the use, I'd get one Viltrox for each lens and go with it!
BTW, from what I know, the focus thing is firmware correctable. It seems Metabones people did a really awesome job on improving the camera autofocus by adding some dampening in the system. I wonder if Viltrox had an open API for the firmware ...
So does the viltrox compete with metabones? What exactly is the difference? My budget is low so I’m thinking about buying it.
I learned a lot through this video, thank you
What focus the image is the lens - that's basically its job - but what sets the lens on focus is the camera. The uncertain focus is a characteristic of Lumix cameras - a better comparison would the adapter against a similar native MFT lens.
i see where the new metabones excel but still doesnt justify the price difference! i gone with the viltrox. thanks for these videos. and fuck your intro, this tune plays in my head the whole day :D:D TAM DAM TARADADAMMM
Having used both the Metabones wins by a mile. Let me break it down. Yes, the Viltrox is cheaper... but, you can get a used Metabones, and there, the difference, gets much smaller. The Viltrox flares like crazy. I'm not talking about nice flares that add to your images. I'm talking about a solid wash over the image that makes you do lighting acrobatics to get them off. Not with the Metabones. Not at all. Also, the Metabones seem to add quality to your glass. I myself use Nikon lenses (all manual) and the quality I get out of the AIS lenses is insane. I switch to a Nikon camera and they are not as sharp. Third. The Viltrox washes your colors a bit. Don't ask me why or how, these are things I noticed after two years of working with both adapters. You hit it right on the money about the wiggling on the Viltrox. THIS WILL AFFECT YOUR FOCUS. BIG TIME. I pair the camera with a Nikon 80-200 f2.8. At 200mm getting focus is mind-boggling horrible. The Viltrox washes your image and it becomes harder and harder to find a sweet spot. I have gone back and forth between both of them and yes, the Metabones wins by a lot. Better quality. Better glass. Far more reliable and... always looks better. Now, are you on a budget and you can't afford one? The VIltorx will do the job... but beware, the ballet for quality is going to be present at all times. You can work around the quirks... but the quirks will be there. Can you add them to your style of shooting? Sure... but be aware that matching with other cameras will be a challenge. Thanks for this review. M.
Hi Gerald, I'm just wondering, are you trusting the peaking without really checking focus for these tests. I mean I have experienced very slight out of focus images when using peaking alone.. But anyways, thanks for all you're doing, I'm amazed.. Cheers, Steen.
The focus lines on the Pocket 4K are stellar. I usually do a 2x zoom for confirmation as well.
@@geraldundone, thought so, great work and thanks😊
I believe the metabones is measured in T* where as the VILTROX may be f* by the sounds of it. That would account for the difference in iris display. Not sure it's to do with just rounding up or down. The T* calculation accounts for actual optical transmission not just the theoretical equation. Not sure if that is helpful to anybody but I believe that's the discrepancy in those read outs.
It’s a good idea to gave more than 1 focal reducer/ speed booster as I realized after switching my sigma 18-35 off for my canon 24-105 lens and couldn’t really find the infinity focus spot...needed to adjust the back focus again...so now I just leave the adapter on each respective lens. Oh and I was able to get the 0.71 ultra metabones for 300 on kijiji!
Yeah, I also like marrying them to the lens. But for those on a budget, the next best thing is putting little marks on the reducer so you can switch back and forth.
Next intro for when you review a micro 4/3's camera or gear : The smaller the size the longer the length ;)
Great review! Everything I needed to know.
Phenomenal video very detailed work . Thanks