First time using your videos… Awesome job. Thank you so much. Very very informative, I bought the exact plane, put it all together, and upon doing my checks found that the rudder and the vertical stabilizer are definitely not lined up… Wondering if anyone else had this issue. I bought this from a local hobby shop… The only resolution I see to this is replacement of the rudder itself it looks to be deformed from the factory. I did have trouble getting the wings to bolt on the fuselage almost as if the screws were too short, but I did finally get it with some pressure. hopefully my Local, hobby shop will take care of me without me having to go through Horizon we shall see. 21:58
Thanks for watching! If by not lining up, you are saying that the rudder is at an angle to the vertical stabilizer when the pushrod is attached? If so, there are a few options here. First, power up the transmitter and bind the plane to the transmitter if it is the BNF version otherwise just power up the transmitter and connect the battery for the RTF since the transmitter is already bound. The plane will go through some checks by moving the control surfaces and a few beeps from the ESC. After all that is done, check the rudder alignment now that the servos have been powered up and centered. If the rudder isn't straight, you can remove the clevis on the rudder control horn and turn the clevis as it is threaded to the pushrod. Tightening the clevis will make the control rod shorter and moving the rudder towards the clevis side. Loosening the clevis will make the pushrod longer and move the rudder away from the clevis side. You should do this with the plane powered up as that will keep the servo centered. Many times when I assemble a plane the control surfaces are not aligned, but after powering up the servos, they are pretty close to being aligned or just need a turn or two of the clevis. It is rare they need more than that.
Great video..I love my cub but find it is difficult to get enough down elevator in Safe to bring the plane down in a controlled way. Plane likes to float Any ideas to get more throws in safe
That is usually a case of coming in too fast for a landing. I find with the Cub that I can cut the power to idle when turning downwind to base and keep it off until I touch down. If I need to add a little power to gain some altitude. Also work on bleeding off airspeed with the elevator when you are downwind, base, and then final. Lastly, don't be afraid of having a long final approach so you can use that to adjust your airspeed accordingly. It will like to float, so best to work with that and just plan for a long final. Once out of beginner mode, you can work on shortening your approach. Another option is to land in Intermediate mode so you have more elevator authority, but the root cause of the issue is too much air speed on approach.
Charging time depends greatly upon the charger being used, power output of the charger, and acceptable charge rate for the batteries. I have a Spektrum Smart S2200 and it will charge 2 2200 3S 30C Gen 2 Smart packs in about 15-20 minutes from storage voltage. With a Spektrum Smart charger and batteries, both communicate to each other so the batteries will charge at the correct rate and I don't have to do anything on the charger to properly charge batteries. I simply plug in the batteries and let the charger do the rest. It is by far the easiest way to charge LiPo batteries and the Smart batteries will automatically self discharge back to storage mode if I end up not using them within a week. This protects the battery cells.
If you are using the basic S120 Spektrum charger that came in the RTF bundle then yes it is incredibly slow because it is very basic. It took almost half a day to charge mine the first time I used it. If you are using a low amp charger then the light on the charger is WHITE before the purple flashing charging cycles show. If you can use a higher amp USB plug and cable (like your 20W smart phone chargers) then the light will be BLUE. If blue then it’ll be much faster but no way near a proper smart charger. I very quickly bought a proper Spektrum smart charger which can do my 3S 2200mah in less than 30 mins from storage voltage.
AS3X is the stability system which I think stands for Air Stability 3 Axis. There is an internal set of gyros inside the receiver that detect unintended inputs, such as wind or turbulence. The gyro sends a signal to the control surface to counter the wind or turbulence to allow the plane to fly smoother. I have a bunch of other videos that explain the system in more detail. The manual also has additional information. It is always good to check AS3X when getting a new plane ready to go.
@@BRGT350 Wish you or Anybody in TH-cam land would do a video on how the GPS, Landing assist, Airfield Geo fence works on this bird. Absolutely nobody has given it a shot. Very frustrating for those of us coming from Drones that make this function so easy to use. Yet the Carbon Cub S2 is not very user friendly and Someone should break it down into clear concise steps?
I am not sure how the GPS works as the model my nephew has doesn't include the GPS module. We did install the Landing Assist Sensor that I had from another plane and that works great. That uses a pair of photo eye sensors to determine the altitude and coupled with the gyro system in the receiver, it knows the attitude of the model. The pilot controls the throttle since the system doesn't know speed. The photo sensors help manage the descent by measuring the ground distance and the gyros work to keep the plane level and on a constant glideslope. Depending on the plane, the system flares the plane or adds power at touchdown. The Cub being a tail dragger doesn't land nose up, but rather level, so the system does that. It works really well and after a few flights with it, my nephew was ready to try it without the sensor.
@@BRGT350 Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, in reading all the info on the landing assist, it really seems like something I could use! BUT AGAIN, nobody on TH-cam shows how this feature works. So frustrating for me......thanks agin though.
Great video and nice tips as well as pre flight preparations. One issue I'm having with this plane is that I can't land it in the begginer or intermediate mode, as the nose won't go down unless I apply throttle. I can only land in advanced mode. Is anyone experiencing this? Or what am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Beginner mode does give the plane additional upward pitch by changing the elevator, but only a few degrees. The plane will start to lose altitude in beginner mode if the power is pulled back under 40%. At idle, it would settle into a nice glide slope for landing. Applying throttle to get the nose to come down isn't normal and is actually backwards of what should happen. You control speed with the elevator and altitude with throttle, meaning on landing if you add power, you gain altitude. You bleed off airspeed by pulling back on the elevator and gain it by pushing it forward. Because the Cub is rather floaty, and even more so in beginner mode due to the elevator positioning, you should be able to cut the power to 0 when you are on the base leg of the landing and turning final. Your final approach should be done with the power off and you should just be managing the speed with the elevator. Based on your comment, I would go back and do a few checks. First is to make sure the CG is correct per the manual. Next would be to put the plane in experienced mode, zero the elevator trim on the transmitter, and then use a credit card or straight edge to make the sure the elevator is aligned with the horizontal stab. If you then go into beginner mode, you should see the elevator change a few degrees. Go back to experienced mode and confirm it is centered. Then go fly the plane. Take off in beginner mode, climb to a comfortable altitude at 50% throttle and then put it into experienced mode. The plane should stay level or drop the nose by a few degrees, but mostly stay perfectly level. If it isn't, do you flight trimming in experienced mode. Any trimming in beginner mode is negated by SAFE. You should be able to fly hands off in experienced mode at 50% throttle without any need to give the plane any inputs. That means the plane is balanced and trimmed. Go back into beginner mode, and set up for a landing. When you make the turn from downwind to base, be about 25% power, and then gradually reduce to 0% as you make the turn from base to final. You may be too high on downwind and base, meaning you are too high for final and having too much airspeed, which is causing the nose to stay up and SAFE prevents you from pushing the nose down too far. I am guessing the issue is either the plane is out of trim or you are coming in too fast on landing. Try that and let me know the results.
@BRGT350 Thank you so much for the detailed answer and tips, it makes a lot of sense, I think my error is that I'm still applying throttle on final. I'll try your tops on my next flight and will comment here. Thanks!
I have his and hers of this plane. I salvaged a LONG control wire from a Blixler. I got the flaps to work ONCE. Have you tried to get them to work with this radio?
I haven't tried flaps yet as it is my nephew's plane and he is still learning the basics. He is a bit out from learning how to use flaps. He has flown solo on beginner mode, but not much past that. Once he is comfortable flying in intermediate or experienced mode, then I can look at adding in the flaps.
these are more of the pre-preflight checks. Once at the flying field, there are preflight checks that are also done before each flight. Checking the control surfaces for movement/direction/hinges, motor runup to check for vibration, battery voltage check, wing bolts are tight, battery hatch secured, transmitter charged, timer set, and landing gear are in good working order are done before each flight at the field.
You could place it on top of the wing and fuselage so that the center of the GoPro is in line with the CG balance point on the wings. For example, if the manual states the CG is 80mm back from the leading edge of the wing, then the center of the GoPro needs to be 80mm from the leading edge of the wing as well, but also centered on the fuselage to avoid the GoPro wanting to tip the plane to a side. I don't have the manual available to check the CG number, but it is in there and that is where you want to place the camera. I would expect some additional drag from the camera and that along with the weight will reduce flight times and require more throttle to fly.
Taking a little time up front to make sure everything works is always a good idea. As a result of the checks, the plane didn't need any trimming and has been a fantastic trainer out of the box. My nephew, who is in the thumbnail picture, has had 5 flights so far and is pretty much ready to solo.
SAFE can be turned on and off via a 3-position switch. AS3X is on all the time, but doesn't interfere with your control of the aircraft. It acts like shock absorbers for your airplane by dialing out disruptions from the environment. Flying without AS3X would be like driving your car without shock absorbers. Not ideal unless the road or air is perfectly smooth. I have flown planes with and without the AS3X system and always prefer AS3X as the air is never dead calm. AS3X doesn't interfere with your ability to fly the aircraft as any input from the pilot overwrites the AS3X system. Even full scale aircraft use a similar system to AS3X to reduce pilot workload. I was just reading the other day about how the Garmin GPS autopilot for general aviation aircraft has the ability to automatically adjust trim and control surface inputs to dial out wind, thermals, and turbulence. It sees the input from those events and adjusts accordingly.
Question, I've flew my cub a few times and add flaps to mine. Now I can't get the gryo to work have you had any issues with it? I still have the 3 modes but when you tip it so far it doesn't try to level it's self anymore I've made a new plane on my nx8 transmitter without the flaps plugged in and everything
I haven't installed the flaps on the Cub, but the addition of flaps shouldn't cause any issues with SAFE or AS3X. I would do the following checks; 1) in SAFE beginner mode, raise the throttle to over 25% and then back to idle. Check SAFE by lifting the right wing and see if the right aileron lifts, do the same for the left wing and see if the left aileron goes up. That will tell you if SAFE is working. Both SAFE and AS3X need the throttle advanced to over 25% to get them to activate. 2) Verify the 3-position switch on the transmitter isn't assigned to both flaps and SAFE. If the flaps and SAFE are on the same switch, that could be causing the receiver to become confused. It could be a case where deploying the flaps is changing the SAFE modes at the same time. 3) Check SAFE beginner, intermediate, and experience modes with flaps up, take-off flaps, and landing flaps as that will tell you if the flaps are on the same switch. I am betting the issue isn't with the Cub, but the transmitter switch assignments.
I plugged in my battery and the ailerons on either side have moved opposite directions, and the rudder is turned to move the plane to the right. I can’t seem to control the plane at all or turn on the propeller and I’m not entirely sure why. Got any suggestions for troubleshooting or a guide in addition to the instruction manual?
Sounds like something went wrong in the startup procedure. Start with the transmitter off and battery unplugged. Turn on the transmitter first, then plug in the battery, place the plane on level ground for a few seconds. The ailerons, elevator, and rudder will all move back and forth as part of the start up. If you plug in the battery before turning on the transmitter, the plane may have lost bind and you need to follow the binding instructions. Typically, unplugging everything and following the start up process as listed above will fix it. Never plug in the battery without the transmitter being turned on first. To turn off, unplug the battery first and then turn off the transmitter. The transmitter is always first on and last off.
sounds good! Hopefully that is it. The way it was acting is how a plane acts when it isn't bound to a transmitter or the transmitter is turned off. If it needs to be reconnected to the transmitter, it is easy to do. Insert the bind plug into the receiver, plug in the battery, turn on the transmitter while holding down the bind/panic button, and the plane should go through a movement of all the control surfaces to indicate it has been bound to the transmitter. Remove the bind plug, unplug the battery, turn off the transmitter, and then go through a normal start-up to make sure everything works. I can't recall if the Carbon Cub is one of the planes that must be sitting on the landing gear for a few seconds during power-up to calibrate the gyro. Some of my planes do that and others don't, so I can't recall all the ones that need that step.
You can use your finger tips to balance the plane, and that should get you close enough. I would take a marker and put a dot at the CG location on the wings, using a ruler to measure the distance properly, and then put your finger tips on the dots and lift the plane. If it tips forward, then it is nose heavy, tips back it is tail heavy, sits level means the CG is good to go. I did all my checks using the finger tip method when I was starting out and it got me close enough until I bought the Dubro CG Machine when I moved into more complex and higher performance aircraft where CG is vital.
Another question for you as I have the exact plane. The manual says the CG is 65MM from the leading edge of the wing. This is 2.5 inches and I marked this on the wings with a black sharpie. In order to balance the plane as you suggested below with my fingers, I need to move the battery all the way forward (towards the propeller) in the battery compartment. Does that sound right? Appreciate your help.
Yep, that sounds ok. Each plane and battery are slightly different so some may need the battery further forward, some farther back, and some in the middle.
We have had several great flights now. Wish I had watched this first for the indicator led on the windshield…. Excellent video! When we got home I discovered we have lots of turn in the rudder. Im not sure why - last flight was smooth but the field is not perfectly flat grass. I unplugged and replugged the battery and the plane tried to calibrate and it believes we are good to go but we can’t fly or taxi making a hard turn. Something is wrong. Was thinking of removing the wings to see if the servo or servo wheel dislodged. I can’t reach that servo from the battery bay. Sound like a plan? This is an amazingly easy plane to fly (rookie here). When you do a low and slow fly by with this thing it is nearly silent and looks great in the air.
You will only need FAA Remote ID if you are not flying at a FRIA location. If you are flying at a location that requires Remote ID, you will need to purchase the Remote ID module for the Carbon Cub.
@@BRGT350 Thank you, I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure this out. Trying to sift through the FAA website to register is nauseating. I did get registered with the AMA, and my local flying club is a FRIA accredited site, but their club posting says I have to be a club member, join the AMA, and register with the FAA. I have a plane like in your video, as well as the Cub SS, they both fly great, but I have to tell you, I'm ready to throw in the towel on all of this nonsense. It's no wonder this hobby can't thrive like it once did!
I just now discovered your channel. It is very good so keep up the good work. I have subscribed.
Thank you!!
First time using your videos… Awesome job. Thank you so much. Very very informative, I bought the exact plane, put it all together, and upon doing my checks found that the rudder and the vertical stabilizer are definitely not lined up… Wondering if anyone else had this issue. I bought this from a local hobby shop… The only resolution I see to this is replacement of the rudder itself it looks to be deformed from the factory. I did have trouble getting the wings to bolt on the fuselage almost as if the screws were too short, but I did finally get it with some pressure. hopefully my Local, hobby shop will take care of me without me having to go through Horizon we shall see. 21:58
Thanks for watching! If by not lining up, you are saying that the rudder is at an angle to the vertical stabilizer when the pushrod is attached? If so, there are a few options here. First, power up the transmitter and bind the plane to the transmitter if it is the BNF version otherwise just power up the transmitter and connect the battery for the RTF since the transmitter is already bound. The plane will go through some checks by moving the control surfaces and a few beeps from the ESC. After all that is done, check the rudder alignment now that the servos have been powered up and centered. If the rudder isn't straight, you can remove the clevis on the rudder control horn and turn the clevis as it is threaded to the pushrod. Tightening the clevis will make the control rod shorter and moving the rudder towards the clevis side. Loosening the clevis will make the pushrod longer and move the rudder away from the clevis side. You should do this with the plane powered up as that will keep the servo centered. Many times when I assemble a plane the control surfaces are not aligned, but after powering up the servos, they are pretty close to being aligned or just need a turn or two of the clevis. It is rare they need more than that.
@@BRGT350 thanks for all your info… I did take it back to the hobby shop and they replace the tail rudder for me. It was deformed from the factory.
great, glad they helped out!
Great video..I love my cub but find it is difficult to get enough down elevator in Safe to bring the plane down in a controlled way. Plane likes to float Any ideas to get more throws in safe
That is usually a case of coming in too fast for a landing. I find with the Cub that I can cut the power to idle when turning downwind to base and keep it off until I touch down. If I need to add a little power to gain some altitude. Also work on bleeding off airspeed with the elevator when you are downwind, base, and then final. Lastly, don't be afraid of having a long final approach so you can use that to adjust your airspeed accordingly. It will like to float, so best to work with that and just plan for a long final. Once out of beginner mode, you can work on shortening your approach. Another option is to land in Intermediate mode so you have more elevator authority, but the root cause of the issue is too much air speed on approach.
Thanks for the great Tips... great job.. Mine is on order.. 73
Thanks and enjoy the Cub! It is a fantastic trainer and one that will set you up well for higher powered taildraggers such as the Timber and warbirds.
Very helpful, thank you!
Hi just got mine I’m concerned about the charging time of my battery I’m just wondering how long it takes for your battery to charge
Charging time depends greatly upon the charger being used, power output of the charger, and acceptable charge rate for the batteries. I have a Spektrum Smart S2200 and it will charge 2 2200 3S 30C Gen 2 Smart packs in about 15-20 minutes from storage voltage. With a Spektrum Smart charger and batteries, both communicate to each other so the batteries will charge at the correct rate and I don't have to do anything on the charger to properly charge batteries. I simply plug in the batteries and let the charger do the rest. It is by far the easiest way to charge LiPo batteries and the Smart batteries will automatically self discharge back to storage mode if I end up not using them within a week. This protects the battery cells.
If you are using the basic S120 Spektrum charger that came in the RTF bundle then yes it is incredibly slow because it is very basic. It took almost half a day to charge mine the first time I used it.
If you are using a low amp charger then the light on the charger is WHITE before the purple flashing charging cycles show. If you can use a higher amp USB plug and cable (like your 20W smart phone chargers) then the light will be BLUE. If blue then it’ll be much faster but no way near a proper smart charger.
I very quickly bought a proper Spektrum smart charger which can do my 3S 2200mah in less than 30 mins from storage voltage.
Very helpful, thanks. I'm curious how you got all the huge Hobbyzone stickers off
We didn't remove any stickers. As it looks in the video is how it looked right out of the box.
Great video again.....thorough, concise, easy to understand.....except for AS-3-X. What is that?
AS3X is the stability system which I think stands for Air Stability 3 Axis. There is an internal set of gyros inside the receiver that detect unintended inputs, such as wind or turbulence. The gyro sends a signal to the control surface to counter the wind or turbulence to allow the plane to fly smoother. I have a bunch of other videos that explain the system in more detail. The manual also has additional information. It is always good to check AS3X when getting a new plane ready to go.
@@BRGT350 Wish you or Anybody in TH-cam land would do a video on how the GPS, Landing assist, Airfield Geo fence works on this bird. Absolutely nobody has given it a shot. Very frustrating for those of us coming from Drones that make this function so easy to use. Yet the Carbon Cub S2 is not very user friendly and Someone should break it down into clear concise steps?
I am not sure how the GPS works as the model my nephew has doesn't include the GPS module. We did install the Landing Assist Sensor that I had from another plane and that works great. That uses a pair of photo eye sensors to determine the altitude and coupled with the gyro system in the receiver, it knows the attitude of the model. The pilot controls the throttle since the system doesn't know speed. The photo sensors help manage the descent by measuring the ground distance and the gyros work to keep the plane level and on a constant glideslope. Depending on the plane, the system flares the plane or adds power at touchdown. The Cub being a tail dragger doesn't land nose up, but rather level, so the system does that. It works really well and after a few flights with it, my nephew was ready to try it without the sensor.
@@BRGT350 Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, in reading all the info on the landing assist, it really seems like something I could use! BUT AGAIN, nobody on TH-cam shows how this feature works. So frustrating for me......thanks agin though.
Great video and nice tips as well as pre flight preparations. One issue I'm having with this plane is that I can't land it in the begginer or intermediate mode, as the nose won't go down unless I apply throttle. I can only land in advanced mode. Is anyone experiencing this? Or what am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Beginner mode does give the plane additional upward pitch by changing the elevator, but only a few degrees. The plane will start to lose altitude in beginner mode if the power is pulled back under 40%. At idle, it would settle into a nice glide slope for landing. Applying throttle to get the nose to come down isn't normal and is actually backwards of what should happen. You control speed with the elevator and altitude with throttle, meaning on landing if you add power, you gain altitude. You bleed off airspeed by pulling back on the elevator and gain it by pushing it forward. Because the Cub is rather floaty, and even more so in beginner mode due to the elevator positioning, you should be able to cut the power to 0 when you are on the base leg of the landing and turning final. Your final approach should be done with the power off and you should just be managing the speed with the elevator. Based on your comment, I would go back and do a few checks. First is to make sure the CG is correct per the manual. Next would be to put the plane in experienced mode, zero the elevator trim on the transmitter, and then use a credit card or straight edge to make the sure the elevator is aligned with the horizontal stab. If you then go into beginner mode, you should see the elevator change a few degrees. Go back to experienced mode and confirm it is centered. Then go fly the plane. Take off in beginner mode, climb to a comfortable altitude at 50% throttle and then put it into experienced mode. The plane should stay level or drop the nose by a few degrees, but mostly stay perfectly level. If it isn't, do you flight trimming in experienced mode. Any trimming in beginner mode is negated by SAFE. You should be able to fly hands off in experienced mode at 50% throttle without any need to give the plane any inputs. That means the plane is balanced and trimmed. Go back into beginner mode, and set up for a landing. When you make the turn from downwind to base, be about 25% power, and then gradually reduce to 0% as you make the turn from base to final. You may be too high on downwind and base, meaning you are too high for final and having too much airspeed, which is causing the nose to stay up and SAFE prevents you from pushing the nose down too far. I am guessing the issue is either the plane is out of trim or you are coming in too fast on landing. Try that and let me know the results.
@BRGT350 Thank you so much for the detailed answer and tips, it makes a lot of sense, I think my error is that I'm still applying throttle on final. I'll try your tops on my next flight and will comment here. Thanks!
I have his and hers of this plane. I salvaged a LONG control wire from a Blixler. I got the flaps to work ONCE. Have you tried to get them to work with this radio?
I haven't tried flaps yet as it is my nephew's plane and he is still learning the basics. He is a bit out from learning how to use flaps. He has flown solo on beginner mode, but not much past that. Once he is comfortable flying in intermediate or experienced mode, then I can look at adding in the flaps.
Those "little checks" are what we flight mechanics call a "preflight". ;)
these are more of the pre-preflight checks. Once at the flying field, there are preflight checks that are also done before each flight. Checking the control surfaces for movement/direction/hinges, motor runup to check for vibration, battery voltage check, wing bolts are tight, battery hatch secured, transmitter charged, timer set, and landing gear are in good working order are done before each flight at the field.
hello from belgium.....where i can put a GoPro on this plane with out changing the cg? i just finish my maiden flight with this plane. awesome!
You could place it on top of the wing and fuselage so that the center of the GoPro is in line with the CG balance point on the wings. For example, if the manual states the CG is 80mm back from the leading edge of the wing, then the center of the GoPro needs to be 80mm from the leading edge of the wing as well, but also centered on the fuselage to avoid the GoPro wanting to tip the plane to a side. I don't have the manual available to check the CG number, but it is in there and that is where you want to place the camera. I would expect some additional drag from the camera and that along with the weight will reduce flight times and require more throttle to fly.
@@BRGT350 big thanks dude! i ll check the manual ...have a good day ;)
no problem, happy to help!
Nice tip and trick
Taking a little time up front to make sure everything works is always a good idea. As a result of the checks, the plane didn't need any trimming and has been a fantastic trainer out of the box. My nephew, who is in the thumbnail picture, has had 5 flights so far and is pretty much ready to solo.
@@BRGT350 yup and thank so much my friend and it my note
Great instructional video Bryan!!
Thanks Steve! If you are ever looking for a nice flying Carbon Cub, this is one I highly suggest!
Getting back into flying after many years. Can you turn off the safe and ax3s stuff? I do not want that on. I want a pure flying experience.
SAFE can be turned on and off via a 3-position switch. AS3X is on all the time, but doesn't interfere with your control of the aircraft. It acts like shock absorbers for your airplane by dialing out disruptions from the environment. Flying without AS3X would be like driving your car without shock absorbers. Not ideal unless the road or air is perfectly smooth. I have flown planes with and without the AS3X system and always prefer AS3X as the air is never dead calm. AS3X doesn't interfere with your ability to fly the aircraft as any input from the pilot overwrites the AS3X system. Even full scale aircraft use a similar system to AS3X to reduce pilot workload. I was just reading the other day about how the Garmin GPS autopilot for general aviation aircraft has the ability to automatically adjust trim and control surface inputs to dial out wind, thermals, and turbulence. It sees the input from those events and adjusts accordingly.
Question, I've flew my cub a few times and add flaps to mine. Now I can't get the gryo to work have you had any issues with it? I still have the 3 modes but when you tip it so far it doesn't try to level it's self anymore I've made a new plane on my nx8 transmitter without the flaps plugged in and everything
I haven't installed the flaps on the Cub, but the addition of flaps shouldn't cause any issues with SAFE or AS3X. I would do the following checks; 1) in SAFE beginner mode, raise the throttle to over 25% and then back to idle. Check SAFE by lifting the right wing and see if the right aileron lifts, do the same for the left wing and see if the left aileron goes up. That will tell you if SAFE is working. Both SAFE and AS3X need the throttle advanced to over 25% to get them to activate. 2) Verify the 3-position switch on the transmitter isn't assigned to both flaps and SAFE. If the flaps and SAFE are on the same switch, that could be causing the receiver to become confused. It could be a case where deploying the flaps is changing the SAFE modes at the same time. 3) Check SAFE beginner, intermediate, and experience modes with flaps up, take-off flaps, and landing flaps as that will tell you if the flaps are on the same switch. I am betting the issue isn't with the Cub, but the transmitter switch assignments.
I plugged in my battery and the ailerons on either side have moved opposite directions, and the rudder is turned to move the plane to the right. I can’t seem to control the plane at all or turn on the propeller and I’m not entirely sure why. Got any suggestions for troubleshooting or a guide in addition to the instruction manual?
Sounds like something went wrong in the startup procedure. Start with the transmitter off and battery unplugged. Turn on the transmitter first, then plug in the battery, place the plane on level ground for a few seconds. The ailerons, elevator, and rudder will all move back and forth as part of the start up. If you plug in the battery before turning on the transmitter, the plane may have lost bind and you need to follow the binding instructions. Typically, unplugging everything and following the start up process as listed above will fix it. Never plug in the battery without the transmitter being turned on first. To turn off, unplug the battery first and then turn off the transmitter. The transmitter is always first on and last off.
@@BRGT350 thanks for your reply! I’ll try this and report back with the results
sounds good! Hopefully that is it. The way it was acting is how a plane acts when it isn't bound to a transmitter or the transmitter is turned off. If it needs to be reconnected to the transmitter, it is easy to do. Insert the bind plug into the receiver, plug in the battery, turn on the transmitter while holding down the bind/panic button, and the plane should go through a movement of all the control surfaces to indicate it has been bound to the transmitter. Remove the bind plug, unplug the battery, turn off the transmitter, and then go through a normal start-up to make sure everything works. I can't recall if the Carbon Cub is one of the planes that must be sitting on the landing gear for a few seconds during power-up to calibrate the gyro. Some of my planes do that and others don't, so I can't recall all the ones that need that step.
Followed the tips and got it working!
Great!! Glad that worked out!
How do you determine the CG without that CG stand you have? Do I need to go purchase one of those stands? Please advise.
You can use your finger tips to balance the plane, and that should get you close enough. I would take a marker and put a dot at the CG location on the wings, using a ruler to measure the distance properly, and then put your finger tips on the dots and lift the plane. If it tips forward, then it is nose heavy, tips back it is tail heavy, sits level means the CG is good to go. I did all my checks using the finger tip method when I was starting out and it got me close enough until I bought the Dubro CG Machine when I moved into more complex and higher performance aircraft where CG is vital.
Another question for you as I have the exact plane. The manual says the CG is 65MM from the leading edge of the wing. This is 2.5 inches and I marked this on the wings with a black sharpie. In order to balance the plane as you suggested below with my fingers, I need to move the battery all the way forward (towards the propeller) in the battery compartment. Does that sound right? Appreciate your help.
Yep, that sounds ok. Each plane and battery are slightly different so some may need the battery further forward, some farther back, and some in the middle.
We have had several great flights now. Wish I had watched this first for the indicator led on the windshield…. Excellent video!
When we got home I discovered we have lots of turn in the rudder. Im not sure why - last flight was smooth but the field is not perfectly flat grass. I unplugged and replugged the battery and the plane tried to calibrate and it believes we are good to go but we can’t fly or taxi making a hard turn. Something is wrong.
Was thinking of removing the wings to see if the servo or servo wheel dislodged. I can’t reach that servo from the battery bay. Sound like a plan?
This is an amazingly easy plane to fly (rookie here). When you do a low and slow fly by with this thing it is nearly silent and looks great in the air.
Is the Carbon Club S2 FCC Remote ID compliant?
You will only need FAA Remote ID if you are not flying at a FRIA location. If you are flying at a location that requires Remote ID, you will need to purchase the Remote ID module for the Carbon Cub.
@@BRGT350 Thank you, I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure this out. Trying to sift through the FAA website to register is nauseating.
I did get registered with the AMA, and my local flying club is a FRIA accredited site, but their club posting says I have to be a club member, join the AMA, and register with the FAA.
I have a plane like in your video, as well as the Cub SS, they both fly great, but I have to tell you, I'm ready to throw in the towel on all of this nonsense.
It's no wonder this hobby can't thrive like it once did!
@@DonTimmons-kh4dz Thank the f-ing drone dicks for the FAA nonsense. I just got my certification today and waiting on the AMA membership.
😏 "promo sm"