Thanks for watching, I really appreciate the support! Dewalt is probably the best made heater on the market today: 75k BTU: amzn.to/3u9dJsv 190k BTU: amzn.to/364QkQM The MH line from Mr. Heater is a really solid "value" option too: amzn.to/3qBgMsD BRAND SPANKIN' NEW CHANNEL MERCH! teespring.com/stores/trial-n-error More monkey business? Find me on Facebook: facebook.com/TH-camTrialnerror/?view_public_for=232815904127596 Instagram: instagram.com/trialn_error_/
I got a Mr. Heater 75,000 BTU last year and had to replace the rubber hoses already, the air hose had so many holes that it wouldn't even start. If you do get it make sure to spray the hoses with a rubber protectant before the season, during the season, and after the season. I defiantly will be because getting those hoses out are a pain in the ass.
I was a service tech for a microwave company, and for moisture on the control board issues, the manufacturer had us pull the control board off, and coat the control board with clear furniture lacquer spray, about 3 coats of spray, letting it dry, then reinstall it, this worked very very well, you may want to try this with your control circuit board to protect it from moisture, just remove your control board, spray it with clear lacquer furniture spray, let it dry, then reassemble it, and test run the heater, this will keep your heater from suffering catastrophic electrical failure, due to moisture problems.
Temp Sensor Relocation: For those reading the comments for a follow-up on moving the ambient room tempeture sensor. On this model, the thermister room temperature senor bulb (small thermostat bulb that plugs into the circuit board to regulate room temperature on Pinnacle based heaters). I forget what the plug is labeled, but it’s towards the botrom of the circuit board and ends with "2". It has two very thin black wires (joined like speaker wires) that terminate at the sensor bulb, which is zip-tied towards the back/side of the fan motor. I cut the zip ties and ran the sensor right out the back through the intake grate. It sticks out about 2 inches. MUCH more stable temp readings, which improved the weird cycling. Hope this helps someone.
One option you could use if the thermostat is a continuing issue is to bypass the onboard thermostat, and get a plug in one. These can be hung on a wall, and function like a furnace or boiler thermostat.
Not a good idea, as the fan runs on after the flame goes out, to cool the burn chamber - if this doesn't happen the heat causes damage over time. This warning is actually written on the side of mine...
I just spent an hour viewing troubleshooting videos and this one is by far the most informative for my application. You mentioned that the heater should turn on and shut off based on the input from the thermostat. I have a brand new Mr Heater 180000 btu heater that shuts off after about 20 minutes and does not ever come back on, until the unit has completely cooled down, then I have to turn the switch off and unplug in order to get it to work again. This at least gives me some things to look at. Thanks.
I just watched your video and have recently bought the 80k btu dyna glo model from menards. I have it running on diesel #2 from the gas station. Before I bought it I did a lot of research on repairing them and maintaining them. So I want to bring up some points that may help others (and you) when running a Salamander/torpedo/whatever you want to call it. First, Running diesel is what I expect everyone is doing because kerosene is crazy expensive. However, Diesel gets thicker as the temp drops and tends to jell up below about 30F. So, Since all these heaters are really all the same you have to pay attention to what the temp is outside. I picked up some diesel conditioner to protect against jelling up in cold weather. The thicker the diesel gets the harder it is to inject it into the burner. This causes decreased flow and it will either not start or just start and quit after a minute or so. You have two options. You can adjust your pressure or add some diesel conditioner to it. I ran mine for an hour and it burns very clean. Hardly any noticeable diesel smell at all. If you are getting some smoke out of them or really smelly then your pressure might be too high or your injector nozzle might be somewhat clogged and dripping some down and then finally igniting. Take it apart and clean the nozzle. Just use some brake cleaner and a small diameter wire. The price point you buy at is important. The manufacturer has to build these with a price point in mind. So, Buying the cheapest will come with quality and build issues. I went with the 80k model because it has been mentioned that if your garage is uninsulated (1.5 car size garage) its better. Indeed it is. It warms it right up in about 10 minutes. I looked over the unit hardware wise and it seems to be of good build quality. If its not igniting and you hear it clicking then the igniter is fine. Its a fuel delivery problem. As for the thermostat, You can pick up an external one for about 44.oo bucks and use that. Just turn the built in one to max and use the inline external one. If you have the thermostat set at 70 and you are sweating then keep in mind that the temp at the heater is going to be less than what is farther up because hot air rises. Just set the thermostat lower on the unit. These units are pretty basic and I do have experience repairing all my cars/equipment/ect... so its not a big deal for me. I guess most important is do not cheap out on your selection for a heater. These heaters should go years with general maintenance like drain the fuel after winter is over. Use a conditioner in the colder weather. Pull the cover and clean it. Check the pressure every year to make sure you are in specs.
I bought a master about 8 years ago.. 135,000 btu and it has ran flawlessly. Just a few days ago I bought a 80,000 btu for a smaller shop. So far so good with the new one too although I did have to turn the pump pressure down because it was shooting 4in flames out the front!
I've never been around a torpedo heater that doesn't make horrible fumes. To me they're junk unless you're running it outside or in a garage with the doors open cause it will kill you with the doors shut
@@jfarmall77 Thats pretty funny. Its like your revealing a great secret that keeping the doors closed and running a heater will kill you. Ah, You do realize that suicide is done with the doors closed right? I mean we all get that. Did you really think your telling us some awesome 'Garage Heater' tip?
@@northpoint1039 the tip is get a quality heater so you can close the doors and get warm that's the purpose of a heater. If you want tons of heat and don't care about the doors open or breathing fumes and listening to a jet engine roaring then I guess the torpedo is alright but I don't care for all that nonsense when there's way better heaters. Now all that being said yes they do have a place if your laying under a piece of equipment on the frozen ground then I can forgive the noise and fumes blowing on me for warmth or if your in a half built structure or something and need heat they do that job well.
Just got a Remington 175k that's pretty similar to this one a few months ago for free it had been sitting outside for who knows how long and i left it outside since. opened the shell saw the lines were rotted in half replaced the lines runs fine thermostat works and i adjusted the pressure down from 10 to the recommended 7.5 on the side. been running fine and the rain and elements haven't gotten to the motherboard. i guess well see but no problems yet no fumes, no smoke, clean glow and no excess flames out the end!
I'm not a technician but mine is doing the same, but I plan on removing the electronic flame sensor. Seems like a regular problem with this type of setup
You can run some diesel fuel additive to it or in my case, I add about 1/8 cup rubbing alcohol to 10 gal of fuel. The alcohol also reduces the smell of diesel
Started mine up with semi jelled fuel. Ran for a little bit started smoking and quit. Fixed fuel problem but it won’t fire up again. John Deere 150 with thermostat
I have a old remmington 55 torpedo heater smaller but yes it does work has sat in elevator shaft pits and ran and ran and ran during cold winters for days at a time I bet it has 1 million miles on it if you converted hours to miles it has a spark plug for the ignitor it's probably from the late 80s love this heater still using it to this day
Good tips, mine has been sitting in he corner for 15 years, I may revisit it... Just curious as why you need one of them? how is the mini split doing at keeping up the heat in the garage? That is still my plan for my garage.
I just use it to get the garage up to temp initially. The mini split will do the job ( that's all I used last year) but it takes a couple hours to change the temp 30 degrees. With both of them going it takes 20 minutes to go from 30 degrees to 60. Once the garage is warm, I shut down the torpedo and the minisplit holds the temp no problem.
my suggestion relating to thermostat, this applies to regardless how well or bad it works, amazon/other there's these 30$~ wireless thermostats for 120v devices that are pretty awesome... they're built pretty cheaply but work(relay and wireless junk), plugs in between the heater and power source(standard looking 120v socket) than set the temperature on the remote and place the remote where ever you want it to reach that temperature(the temp sensor is in the remote) and done:D..... can set the tstat on the unit as a max limit or similar for safety
Buy a 120 volt tstat, mount it on the wall with a good 20 ft cord with a female end. Bypass the potentiometer in the unit so its always on when it has power, and plug it into the wall mounted thermostat?
Nice video. Just make sure that the Thermal Cutt-offs are not hidden in a sleeve connecting to that sensor that you intend to move. Otherwise the circuit won't open and prevent deadly failure.
I have coagulated fuel clumps in my tank. I bought this heater second hand and changed the nozzle, filters, fuel gauge / cap, tire tubes, bought a fuel pressure gauge for it, and changed the fuel lines and filter. I didn't buy an ignitor yet as that was a bit pricey and I didn't buy a complete control panel because $$$ and I wanted to test things out first I believe I tested the photo cell and it's working. So I'm feeling pretty good about it But I wanted to how to clean the coagulated Fuel out of the tank ? Heater was made in 2007 and it visually looks like it didn't have much use. but the fuel pump was caked up with dust from cutting Sheetrock from a job the previous owner was doing. I cleaned all that out.
I have a 2 year old Craftsman heater that sputters when amd if it runs then blows smoke puffs and dies, i took it apart and its like brand new clean, emptied the fuel which look fine. no improvement. I will try moving the igniter like u did.
Mine did that, mine had water in fuel i believe, i put some gel out in it, and turned the psi a half turn at a time, then once it stopped shutting off, backed it off a half turn. want the front cone nose red, but a little dim in the middle, flames shouldn’t be spitting out and it shouldn’t be all bright red.
@Thomas_post I emptied the fuel and didn't see water, idjusted the nozzle and it worked perfect for a while then quit, currently it's working great but have no reason why.
Hooked mine up to an old school mercury switched thermostat which regulates the heat better, the new electronic thermostats only run heating elements not motors
2 minutes in. You mention clips. Those are Tinnamin clips. Yes the sheetmetal is thin but the clips are actually a good thing, even on thick sheetmetal
Picked up a reddy heat one that didn't fire up and took it home oiled up the baerings and what not and it fired right up. Paid 30$ for it. It pays to know how to fix stuff
I have a master 80k radiant heater. It runs for a minute and shuts off. I did everything in trouble shooting and still does it. What do you think the pressure is correct it seems to lose it's electrical connection to the motor.
I'm im desperate need of help. I have a Master heater 200,000btu unit that uses a pp200 ignitor. We were pulling it apart and it all worked beforehand but we broke the ignitor. Every pp200 ignitor I have bought since, looks different (round opposed to flat) and will not ignite. Any thoughts?
Try tweaking the position of the ignitor...the shape difference isn't really that big of a deal but it may just NOT be in the fuel/air path quite right....also make sure its electrically identical....The new ignitor that is so its operating temp is hot enough
I have to assume that either you don't use it much, or miracles are real. It's not that it's impossible for them to do what they're supposed to do but it sure is an uphill battle lol. Thank you for watching
@Trialnerror IDk sometimes every day, sometimes every other week, lately been dragging it around unfreezing pipes, been the more dependable of my 3 heaters, crazy I know. Maybe 10 years ago they made a half decent 80K.
I just got a used 80K master one. And it is 2 years old. Sucker blows really well. Can’t wait to learn and maintain the parts inside to make it last until I build a big shop and upgrade to more Btu model. But this one seems great so far 👌
I have a Dewalt 180 5K BTU and for some reason it’s just spitting out fuel I have the PSI set at seven which is what it’s recommended and I can’t keep a steady flame any thoughts?
Can anyone direct me why my dewalt 125,000 won't catch a flame? I hold the button down but no flame starts. Before it would catch a small flame but none at all now. That's the way I bought it also. Just needing a little help to get it started before I give up and throw it out
My pockets don't go that deep my friend lol. Would have loved to but then again, I would have probably drilled through one of the lines putting my lift in lmao. I use this heater to get the space up to temp fast then use the heat pump HVAC to keep it warm.
@@joemizer I hear ya, but the Heat Pump option and this heater cost me about $700 total. Between the cost of a boiler, a flu/chimney, another oil tank, pumps and manifold I'd easily be up around $5k and that style heat is not great at getting a space up to temp quickly. They are great at keeping a steady temp but take a long time to heat the thermal mass of a cold floor. In a garage that isn't used everyday, I'd be wasting money.
@@joemizer It's nice to be able to have a conversation with person and not have it resort to name calling. I really appreciate guys like you that watch my channel and add their POV's/knowledge. Thanks man!
The mr heater forced air heaters are not good at all we tried the 75,000 btu model on our farm and the part where the nozzle screwed into would start to disinigrate .
this guy has nothing to do but put down the manufacturer, its like he got fired from them ?? and on the thermostat ??? adjust the potentiometer to make the thermostat more accurate, thats what the potentiometer does. its always easier to knock someone elses work. and complaining about a fossil fuel heater?? well why are you fixing it then ?? this looks like he misadjusted the pressure and also loosened the fan blade. this is a set up for more clicks and likes.
Cheap chineseium manufacture lol Good vid U did as I would do to remidy the poor/no fire run problem and good point to adjust the fuel/air mix with the lid on as it will change on/off 😊
I have always bought propane torpedo heaters. Propane torpedo heaters and propane heaters in general hardly ever give you any problems other than an occasional thermocouple going bad every blue moon., and I do mean every blue moon if ever.
This is what a crybaby looks like. 😢😵 If you want better quality spend more money , there's nothing wrong with that heater. Moving that temp sensor away from the combustion chamber will probably burn your shop/garage down, just leave it alone, your not a space heater engineer. 🤔💩
i am sticking with the old SKOOL TORPEDO HEATERS! NO ELECTRONICS OF GARBAGE THERMOS STAT CRAP a plain spark plug & no circuit board.. just a basic fan + reset switch Bypassed the FLAME CENSOR so it will run rather or not if it sees flame... no ERROR CODES or the trash that comes with new torpedo heaters.. CIRCUIT BOARDS, just another piece of CHIT to go bad....
@Trialnerror I find that pretty hard to believe seeing as though I own a speed shop and build multiple chassis a year and doesn't look anything like that mess.
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate the support! Dewalt is probably the best made heater on the market today:
75k BTU: amzn.to/3u9dJsv
190k BTU: amzn.to/364QkQM
The MH line from Mr. Heater is a really solid "value" option too: amzn.to/3qBgMsD
BRAND SPANKIN' NEW CHANNEL MERCH! teespring.com/stores/trial-n-error
More monkey business? Find me on Facebook: facebook.com/TH-camTrialnerror/?view_public_for=232815904127596
Instagram: instagram.com/trialn_error_/
Dewalt still the best made? Need a heater for new pole barn
I have the dewalt 190,000 btu, problems right out of box. Even after adjusting fuel pressure still hit in miss if it runs.
I got a Mr. Heater 75,000 BTU last year and had to replace the rubber hoses already, the air hose had so many holes that it wouldn't even start. If you do get it make sure to spray the hoses with a rubber protectant before the season, during the season, and after the season. I defiantly will be because getting those hoses out are a pain in the ass.
I was a service tech for a microwave company, and for moisture on the control board issues, the manufacturer had us pull the control board off, and coat the control board with clear furniture lacquer spray, about 3 coats of spray, letting it dry, then reinstall it, this worked very very well, you may want to try this with your control circuit board to protect it from moisture, just remove your control board, spray it with clear lacquer furniture spray, let it dry, then reassemble it, and test run the heater, this will keep your heater from suffering catastrophic electrical failure, due to moisture problems.
Temp Sensor Relocation:
For those reading the comments for a follow-up on moving the ambient room tempeture sensor. On this model, the thermister room temperature senor bulb (small thermostat bulb that plugs into the circuit board to regulate room temperature on Pinnacle based heaters). I forget what the plug is labeled, but it’s towards the botrom of the circuit board and ends with "2". It has two very thin black wires (joined like speaker wires) that terminate at the sensor bulb, which is zip-tied towards the back/side of the fan motor. I cut the zip ties and ran the sensor right out the back through the intake grate. It sticks out about 2 inches. MUCH more stable temp readings, which improved the weird cycling.
Hope this helps someone.
One option you could use if the thermostat is a continuing issue is to bypass the onboard thermostat, and get a plug in one. These can be hung on a wall, and function like a furnace or boiler thermostat.
I've used those in the past as well and forgot all about them. Good idea!
Not a good idea, as the fan runs on after the flame goes out, to cool the burn chamber - if this doesn't happen the heat causes damage over time. This warning is actually written on the side of mine...
I just spent an hour viewing troubleshooting videos and this one is by far the most informative for my application. You mentioned that the heater should turn on and shut off based on the input from the thermostat. I have a brand new Mr Heater 180000 btu heater that shuts off after about 20 minutes and does not ever come back on, until the unit has completely cooled down, then I have to turn the switch off and unplug in order to get it to work again. This at least gives me some things to look at. Thanks.
I just watched your video and have recently bought the 80k btu dyna glo model from menards. I have it running on diesel #2 from the gas station. Before I bought it I did a lot of research on repairing them and maintaining them. So I want to bring up some points that may help others (and you) when running a Salamander/torpedo/whatever you want to call it.
First, Running diesel is what I expect everyone is doing because kerosene is crazy expensive. However, Diesel gets thicker as the temp drops and tends to jell up below about 30F. So, Since all these heaters are really all the same you have to pay attention to what the temp is outside. I picked up some diesel conditioner to protect against jelling up in cold weather. The thicker the diesel gets the harder it is to inject it into the burner. This causes decreased flow and it will either not start or just start and quit after a minute or so. You have two options. You can adjust your pressure or add some diesel conditioner to it.
I ran mine for an hour and it burns very clean. Hardly any noticeable diesel smell at all. If you are getting some smoke out of them or really smelly then your pressure might be too high or your injector nozzle might be somewhat clogged and dripping some down and then finally igniting. Take it apart and clean the nozzle. Just use some brake cleaner and a small diameter wire.
The price point you buy at is important. The manufacturer has to build these with a price point in mind. So, Buying the cheapest will come with quality and build issues. I went with the 80k model because it has been mentioned that if your garage is uninsulated (1.5 car size garage) its better. Indeed it is. It warms it right up in about 10 minutes. I looked over the unit hardware wise and it seems to be of good build quality.
If its not igniting and you hear it clicking then the igniter is fine. Its a fuel delivery problem. As for the thermostat, You can pick up an external one for about 44.oo bucks and use that. Just turn the built in one to max and use the inline external one. If you have the thermostat set at 70 and you are sweating then keep in mind that the temp at the heater is going to be less than what is farther up because hot air rises. Just set the thermostat lower on the unit. These units are pretty basic and I do have experience repairing all my cars/equipment/ect... so its not a big deal for me.
I guess most important is do not cheap out on your selection for a heater. These heaters should go years with general maintenance like drain the fuel after winter is over. Use a conditioner in the colder weather. Pull the cover and clean it. Check the pressure every year to make sure you are in specs.
I bought a master about 8 years ago.. 135,000 btu and it has ran flawlessly. Just a few days ago I bought a 80,000 btu for a smaller shop. So far so good with the new one too although I did have to turn the pump pressure down because it was shooting 4in flames out the front!
Thanks for sharing
I've never been around a torpedo heater that doesn't make horrible fumes. To me they're junk unless you're running it outside or in a garage with the doors open cause it will kill you with the doors shut
@@jfarmall77 Thats pretty funny. Its like your revealing a great secret that keeping the doors closed and running a heater will kill you. Ah, You do realize that suicide is done with the doors closed right? I mean we all get that. Did you really think your telling us some awesome 'Garage Heater' tip?
@@northpoint1039 the tip is get a quality heater so you can close the doors and get warm that's the purpose of a heater. If you want tons of heat and don't care about the doors open or breathing fumes and listening to a jet engine roaring then I guess the torpedo is alright but I don't care for all that nonsense when there's way better heaters. Now all that being said yes they do have a place if your laying under a piece of equipment on the frozen ground then I can forgive the noise and fumes blowing on me for warmth or if your in a half built structure or something and need heat they do that job well.
Just got a Remington 175k that's pretty similar to this one a few months ago for free it had been sitting outside for who knows how long and i left it outside since. opened the shell saw the lines were rotted in half replaced the lines runs fine thermostat works and i adjusted the pressure down from 10 to the recommended 7.5 on the side. been running fine and the rain and elements haven't gotten to the motherboard. i guess well see but no problems yet no fumes, no smoke, clean glow and no excess flames out the end!
Depending on torpedo heaters is an excellent training class in troubleshooting. Freezing provides a strong incentive.
I have a Dayton 55000 btu that will only start if the top is off. I’m thinking too low air pressure?? What’s your guys thoughts??
I'm not a technician but mine is doing the same, but I plan on removing the electronic flame sensor. Seems like a regular problem with this type of setup
@@richardc3208 That's the primary safety on these. You want it to stop if it flames out.
Boss got one of those for the shop. When warm out It works great, until it's cold outside then it doesn't run at all. Just perfect
LMAO, sounds about right.
@@Trialnerror something to do with that stupid thermostat set up. Just give me one with a plug that fires it up. More crap, more to break
You can run some diesel fuel additive to it or in my case, I add about 1/8 cup rubbing alcohol to 10 gal of fuel. The alcohol also reduces the smell of diesel
Started mine up with semi jelled fuel. Ran for a little bit started smoking and quit. Fixed fuel problem but it won’t fire up again. John Deere 150 with thermostat
Did changing the position of the temp sensor do anything?
I have to say you are very pragmatic when it comes to this review! And that is why I am here! 😁🛫
I have a old remmington 55 torpedo heater smaller but yes it does work has sat in elevator shaft pits and ran and ran and ran during cold winters for days at a time I bet it has 1 million miles on it if you converted hours to miles it has a spark plug for the ignitor it's probably from the late 80s love this heater still using it to this day
I have a master MH-135T-KFA it only blowing out flumes but when I take the cover off it work fine
Good tips, mine has been sitting in he corner for 15 years, I may revisit it... Just curious as why you need one of them? how is the mini split doing at keeping up the heat in the garage? That is still my plan for my garage.
I just use it to get the garage up to temp initially. The mini split will do the job ( that's all I used last year) but it takes a couple hours to change the temp 30 degrees. With both of them going it takes 20 minutes to go from 30 degrees to 60. Once the garage is warm, I shut down the torpedo and the minisplit holds the temp no problem.
my suggestion relating to thermostat, this applies to regardless how well or bad it works, amazon/other there's these 30$~ wireless thermostats for 120v devices that are pretty awesome... they're built pretty cheaply but work(relay and wireless junk), plugs in between the heater and power source(standard looking 120v socket) than set the temperature on the remote and place the remote where ever you want it to reach that temperature(the temp sensor is in the remote) and done:D..... can set the tstat on the unit as a max limit or similar for safety
kerosene v diesel or jet fuel…. Better burning, smelling, longevity? other perks or undesirables? Thanks!
Buy a 120 volt tstat, mount it on the wall with a good 20 ft cord with a female end. Bypass the potentiometer in the unit so its always on when it has power, and plug it into the wall mounted thermostat?
Thanks for the informative video. What is that gauge model# or could you suggest one ? Thanks for your time
I heard all of the different brand torpedo heaters are made by the same company. Is that true?
Most (including Dewalt/Master) are made by ITI in China, just different levels of manufacture.
Nice video. Just make sure that the Thermal Cutt-offs are not hidden in a sleeve connecting to that sensor that you intend to move. Otherwise the circuit won't open and prevent deadly failure.
What causes the screw to not adjust the psi and have slight fuel smell when burning
I have coagulated fuel clumps in my tank. I bought this heater second hand and changed the nozzle, filters, fuel gauge / cap, tire tubes, bought a fuel pressure gauge for it, and changed the fuel lines and filter. I didn't buy an ignitor yet as that was a bit pricey and I didn't buy a complete control panel because $$$ and I wanted to test things out first I believe I tested the photo cell and it's working. So I'm feeling pretty good about it But I wanted to how to clean the coagulated Fuel out of the tank ? Heater was made in 2007 and it visually looks like it didn't have much use. but the fuel pump was caked up with dust from cutting Sheetrock from a job the previous owner was doing. I cleaned all that out.
Are John Deere torpedo heaters any good?
What would be the issue if you have fuel leaking out the front where the flame comes out?
Turn your pump pressure down or at least check the pressure
@@dave_1958 I’ll try that. It’s almost at 5
@@donvillo1 what size btu do you own
@@dave_1958 125,000 btu
Nice video, good production values. Did you move the sensor like you mentioned?
I have a 2 year old Craftsman heater that sputters when amd if it runs then blows smoke puffs and dies, i took it apart and its like brand new clean, emptied the fuel which look fine. no improvement. I will try moving the igniter like u did.
Mine did that, mine had water in fuel i believe, i put some gel out in it, and turned the psi a half turn at a time, then once it stopped shutting off, backed it off a half turn. want the front cone nose red, but a little dim in the middle, flames shouldn’t be spitting out and it shouldn’t be all bright red.
@Thomas_post I emptied the fuel and didn't see water, idjusted the nozzle and it worked perfect for a while then quit, currently it's working great but have no reason why.
Hooked mine up to an old school mercury switched thermostat which regulates the heat better, the new electronic thermostats only run heating elements not motors
That's the way to do it. The internal thermo is garbage.
Another TH-cam genius
2 minutes in. You mention clips. Those are Tinnamin clips. Yes the sheetmetal is thin but the clips are actually a good thing, even on thick sheetmetal
I found four of these in a dumpster and they all work just fine just trying to learn about them a little bit
I can understand finding them there lol.
@@Trialnerror 😂
That's a great find though. They are worth good money all jokes aside. Nice score! @@tennesseeoutlaw4563
@@Trialnerror thanks I plan on keeping two and selling the others if they break I’m not going to be mad cause they was free lol
Picked up a reddy heat one that didn't fire up and took it home oiled up the baerings and what not and it fired right up. Paid 30$ for it. It pays to know how to fix stuff
I have a master 80k radiant heater. It runs for a minute and shuts off. I did everything in trouble shooting and still does it. What do you think the pressure is correct it seems to lose it's electrical connection to the motor.
I'd like to get one for my garage for the winter, but they're so ridiculously priced up here (Canada) that it's just not cost effective for me.
Buy used. Just bought 3 for $60 to see if they work
As always, great video. Any progress on the car.
Thanks Paul. Nothing new this week anyway. Weather started to warm up so I've been doing some work outside finally!
I'm im desperate need of help. I have a Master heater 200,000btu unit that uses a pp200 ignitor. We were pulling it apart and it all worked beforehand but we broke the ignitor. Every pp200 ignitor I have bought since, looks different (round opposed to flat) and will not ignite. Any thoughts?
Try tweaking the position of the ignitor...the shape difference isn't really that big of a deal but it may just NOT be in the fuel/air path quite right....also make sure its electrically identical....The new ignitor that is so its operating temp is hot enough
I have a Dyna glow pro 135000
Won't fire up with top shroud on .
Amy ideas??
Low fuel pressure or ignition is gapped too far. The increased air flowing through the chamber with the top on is putting out the inadequate flame.
Have had my little 80k heater for 10 years and I only now know its apparently crap. lol.
I have to assume that either you don't use it much, or miracles are real. It's not that it's impossible for them to do what they're supposed to do but it sure is an uphill battle lol. Thank you for watching
@Trialnerror IDk sometimes every day, sometimes every other week, lately been dragging it around unfreezing pipes, been the more dependable of my 3 heaters, crazy I know. Maybe 10 years ago they made a half decent 80K.
I just got a used 80K master one. And it is 2 years old. Sucker blows really well. Can’t wait to learn and maintain the parts inside to make it last until I build a big shop and upgrade to more Btu model. But this one seems great so far 👌
Desa heaters are good heaters the later ones with the hot surface ignition modules. Then run with an external thermostat.
I have a dayton 110,000 and it starts runs for a minute or 5 minutes then shuts off n blows a huge cloud of smoke ?
I have a Dewalt 180 5K BTU and for some reason it’s just spitting out fuel I have the PSI set at seven which is what it’s recommended and I can’t keep a steady flame any thoughts?
Bad nozzle...Or weak ignition temp
I rather get one that has failed that is going to the trash and fix it. Most take little to fix. The 40 year plus old ones are built like tanks.
didn't learn much, if anything. But you made me feel better. Least my Desa/Remington is better
When someone tries to help, I was raised to simply say thank you, not criticize their effort.
Can anyone direct me why my dewalt 125,000 won't catch a flame? I hold the button down but no flame starts. Before it would catch a small flame but none at all now. That's the way I bought it also. Just needing a little help to get it started before I give up and throw it out
good job. Hopefully since I moved to Fla. I will never need my torpedo.( oh wait that is a beer I do like) Heater. But enjoyed the video
Didn’t you do radiant floors? Why you need heater. Lol
My pockets don't go that deep my friend lol. Would have loved to but then again, I would have probably drilled through one of the lines putting my lift in lmao. I use this heater to get the space up to temp fast then use the heat pump HVAC to keep it warm.
@@Trialnerror installing radian isn’t that expensive. Just tubing and 2”insulation
@@joemizer I hear ya, but the Heat Pump option and this heater cost me about $700 total. Between the cost of a boiler, a flu/chimney, another oil tank, pumps and manifold I'd easily be up around $5k and that style heat is not great at getting a space up to temp quickly. They are great at keeping a steady temp but take a long time to heat the thermal mass of a cold floor. In a garage that isn't used everyday, I'd be wasting money.
@@Trialnerror you make a good point.
@@joemizer It's nice to be able to have a conversation with person and not have it resort to name calling. I really appreciate guys like you that watch my channel and add their POV's/knowledge. Thanks man!
Used motor oil? I saw one that also is cordless but didn’t know they made cordless
Nope, too thick. These will run on any light dinosaur remnants but no heavy oils. The only cordless oil feed one's I know of are wick style heaters .
Thanks
The mr heater forced air heaters are not good at all we tried the 75,000 btu model on our farm and the part where the nozzle screwed into would start to disinigrate .
My master heater has been perfect for about 9 years now so don't know what your talking about them being junk
Garbage....as seen in this video.
this guy has nothing to do but put down the manufacturer, its like he got fired from them ?? and on the thermostat ??? adjust the potentiometer to make the thermostat more accurate, thats what the potentiometer does.
its always easier to knock someone elses work. and complaining about a fossil fuel heater?? well why are you fixing it then ??
this looks like he misadjusted the pressure and also loosened the fan blade.
this is a set up for more clicks and likes.
"This guy" is me. I'm guessing you currently work for them. Thanks for playing but the video speaks for itself.
The temp swing on these are entirely too far.
Cheap chineseium manufacture lol Good vid U did as I would do to remidy the poor/no fire run problem and good point to adjust the fuel/air mix with the lid on as it will change on/off 😊
I have always bought propane torpedo heaters. Propane torpedo heaters and propane heaters in general hardly ever give you any problems other than an occasional thermocouple going bad every blue moon., and I do mean every blue moon if ever.
Agreed, I have one of them as well. Great heaters that burn clean but they are expensive to operate.
Really? Those master heaters are very expensive.
This is what a crybaby looks like. 😢😵
If you want better quality spend more money , there's nothing wrong with that heater. Moving that temp sensor away from the combustion chamber will probably burn your shop/garage down, just leave it alone, your not a space heater engineer. 🤔💩
Wow, you're an angry dude. Get well soon buddy.
I must say a great out of the gate upload. That's definitely a piece of sh!t. You proved it. I know you have more in the chamber. .
i am sticking with the old SKOOL TORPEDO HEATERS!
NO ELECTRONICS OF GARBAGE THERMOS STAT CRAP
a plain spark plug & no circuit board.. just a basic fan + reset switch
Bypassed the FLAME CENSOR so it will run rather or not if it sees flame...
no ERROR CODES or the trash that comes with new torpedo heaters.. CIRCUIT BOARDS,
just another piece of CHIT to go bad....
I too like to live dangerously ;) I'm with you right up to bypassing the photo sensor. That can make a big whoopsi.
👍👍
I learned sum stuf.
Thank you, enjoy the stuf that was learnd
Made in China: NO SHAME, WE HAVE!
If you are suggesting Mr. Heater is better, you are delusional. They are all the same quality. This is bullshit.
You seem like the kinda guy that voted for kamala
Talk about a dumb guess. Guess you missed the TRUMP banner and bumper stickers in the garage. Great prediction professor.
Clean your garage.
Clean garages are for people that don't use them to build things.
@Trialnerror I find that pretty hard to believe seeing as though I own a speed shop and build multiple chassis a year and doesn't look anything like that mess.