Man…finally went directly to your page and you’ve been busy upgrading your shop over the last two years! Congrats! I’m on the grant list for the Avid 4x4. If you have time down the road I’d like to bend your ear a bit. I know vectric 12 pretty well, but even though I retook 3D cad years ago I’m not up to date.
Thanks for the Video - well done. I use WD-40 with great results on my mill and lathe. Use the spray bottle giving a squirt every few seconds. It will be a bit messy and make sure the room is well ventilated. Or... use compressed air to evacuate the chips and cool the cutter. Look up the correct speeds and feeds in the Machinery's Handbook (number of flutes is part of the equation). They have a formula or look up table that will give you a good starting point and troubleshooting guide. Even though the setup looks ridgid, it does not have enough mass to damp vibration. There are resonant frequencies you want to avoid. Experiment and good luck.
I'd recommend coated 3 flute roughing end mills (actully chamfer mills) for aluminum from Maritool. Work great for roughing out pockets, holes, and part perimeters in aluminum, copper, and bronze. They have good chip evacuation and "chip breaker" geometry. Even with a Unist MQL system on my ShopSabre 23 I had some non rougher style end mills have chip weld issues in for example holes close to tool diameter or small deepish pockets, Maritool roughers haven't had any chip welding issues and are at a decent price. I use 1-3 flute finishing end mills for a final pass, Maritool but also a couple other companies.
Two things you need for aluminium, higher speed and use single flute mills, better still use DLC coated single flute mills, no mist or cooling required. With single flute you want 18-24k RPM. If you use other bits and get build up of ali on the bit that won't come off, soak it for a few hours what you call Lye, to dissolve the alu.
I’m looking to buy a cheap cnc for for joinery but more for tenons or box joints dovetails unique joints! Do you think the bed can be altered to make an vertical table for this machine
Lol, no. It has a hybrid aluminum/mdf spoil board that was installed at the start of the video and never removed. The mdf boards are removable so they can be replaced when they're 'spoiled'. That's why the aluminum t slots and fasteners are all set well below the surface of the mdf - so they don't come in contact with the endmill.
It can be done with the machine, of course, but I just hit them with a file because it's quicker than creating the g-code for a one-off. In Easel, at least. If I were batch processing the gear then I would take the time to set up the code and machine to do everything. Probably use a different software altogether.
I mill aluminum without coolant. You probably milled too slow and your endmill rubbed instead of cutting the aluminum. It will dull the endmill too. Use mills with 1-2 tooth’s for milling aluminum.
Used 70 ipm feed rate @ 12000 rpm. I just found a video from NymoLabs showing how they used 30 ipm but at 30000 rpm and no coolant. Recommendations are all over the place lol. I think I should stock up on endmills and spend some time creating a test file with a range of settings. I definitely don't have the best endmills for this. Just the general purpose hss 2 flute spiral. From what I understand a single flute is best, with a higher helix angle?
@@JamesBiggar ok... I answerded here on my iPad and it got deleted. Im trying again shorter. 12k rpm with 70ipm is fast. I dont think you really milled that fast. I would use 12k rpm with 30-50ipm with a 6mm endmill with 2 tooths for 6061 aluminium.
@@JamesBiggar ok figured out why YT is deleting my comments. I recommended a App and YT dont like the name of the App. FS***Wizz**ar**d P**RO for iOS or Android. Remove the *
@@JamesBiggar i cant give you the name of the app im using for feeds and speeds. YT is deleting any comment when i writing the name in any way. IDK what the problem is here. I send a email with the app name for feeds and speeds.
That's what the settings were so yes, that's how fast I was milling. I've also tried 12k rpm with 30, 40, and 50 ipm on a test sample yesterday, noticeably slower and produced worse results. I think NymoLabs settings are a good place to start, but I'm going to make a test file with settings ranging between the numbers all you folks have been giving to try to figure out why there's such a difference in your experiences. Too many discrepancies.
Great idea tightening the back…. Moving forward then tightening the front! Thanks for that tip!
Man…finally went directly to your page and you’ve been busy upgrading your shop over the last two years! Congrats! I’m on the grant list for the Avid 4x4. If you have time down the road I’d like to bend your ear a bit. I know vectric 12 pretty well, but even though I retook 3D cad years ago I’m not up to date.
Thanks for the Video - well done. I use WD-40 with great results on my mill and lathe. Use the spray bottle giving a squirt every few seconds. It will be a bit messy and make sure the room is well ventilated. Or... use compressed air to evacuate the chips and cool the cutter. Look up the correct speeds and feeds in the Machinery's Handbook (number of flutes is part of the equation). They have a formula or look up table that will give you a good starting point and troubleshooting guide. Even though the setup looks ridgid, it does not have enough mass to damp vibration. There are resonant frequencies you want to avoid. Experiment and good luck.
I'd recommend coated 3 flute roughing end mills (actully chamfer mills) for aluminum from Maritool. Work great for roughing out pockets, holes, and part perimeters in aluminum, copper, and bronze. They have good chip evacuation and "chip breaker" geometry. Even with a Unist MQL system on my ShopSabre 23 I had some non rougher style end mills have chip weld issues in for example holes close to tool diameter or small deepish pockets, Maritool roughers haven't had any chip welding issues and are at a decent price. I use 1-3 flute finishing end mills for a final pass, Maritool but also a couple other companies.
Awesome video like always James. It's looks like you're having a great time, super creative.
Thanks Mayhem!
Machine looks stiff where needed, a quality product and good value. The ability to machine aluminum is awesome.
Two things you need for aluminium, higher speed and use single flute mills, better still use DLC coated single flute mills, no mist or cooling required. With single flute you want 18-24k RPM. If you use other bits and get build up of ali on the bit that won't come off, soak it for a few hours what you call Lye, to dissolve the alu.
Great video and review, seems like a very capable machine. Thanks!
Lovin it. If I had a wish I’d wish for a video about 3D Printing in metal, titanium specifically.
I’m looking to buy a cheap cnc for for joinery but more for tenons or box joints dovetails unique joints! Do you think the bed can be altered to make an vertical table for this machine
James I have a question! I just ordered a 6040 and I’m curious if there’s anything I need to known when concerting to easel? Thank you
Also… did I see no spoil board under the boxes? Just curious!
Lol, no. It has a hybrid aluminum/mdf spoil board that was installed at the start of the video and never removed. The mdf boards are removable so they can be replaced when they're 'spoiled'. That's why the aluminum t slots and fasteners are all set well below the surface of the mdf - so they don't come in contact with the endmill.
What happened to your e bike? And what was its top speed bro?
How did you get the angle edges on the edges. Is that just from sanding? I’m assuming it is because you used a 2d cut path right?
It can be done with the machine, of course, but I just hit them with a file because it's quicker than creating the g-code for a one-off. In Easel, at least. If I were batch processing the gear then I would take the time to set up the code and machine to do everything. Probably use a different software altogether.
@@JamesBiggarI’m trying to do this exact project. I just ordered a 6040. Where did you get the file for your sprocket from?
I mill aluminum without coolant. You probably milled too slow and your endmill rubbed instead of cutting the aluminum. It will dull the endmill too.
Use mills with 1-2 tooth’s for milling aluminum.
Used 70 ipm feed rate @ 12000 rpm. I just found a video from NymoLabs showing how they used 30 ipm but at 30000 rpm and no coolant. Recommendations are all over the place lol. I think I should stock up on endmills and spend some time creating a test file with a range of settings. I definitely don't have the best endmills for this. Just the general purpose hss 2 flute spiral. From what I understand a single flute is best, with a higher helix angle?
@@JamesBiggar ok... I answerded here on my iPad and it got deleted. Im trying again shorter.
12k rpm with 70ipm is fast. I dont think you really milled that fast. I would use 12k rpm with 30-50ipm with a 6mm endmill with 2 tooths for 6061 aluminium.
@@JamesBiggar ok figured out why YT is deleting my comments. I recommended a App and YT dont like the name of the App.
FS***Wizz**ar**d P**RO for iOS or Android. Remove the *
@@JamesBiggar i cant give you the name of the app im using for feeds and speeds. YT is deleting any comment when i writing the name in any way. IDK what the problem is here.
I send a email with the app name for feeds and speeds.
That's what the settings were so yes, that's how fast I was milling. I've also tried 12k rpm with 30, 40, and 50 ipm on a test sample yesterday, noticeably slower and produced worse results. I think NymoLabs settings are a good place to start, but I'm going to make a test file with settings ranging between the numbers all you folks have been giving to try to figure out why there's such a difference in your experiences. Too many discrepancies.
it's completely new
WD40 works better with aluminum