You were 100% clipping. That's why your subwoofer (as you put it) didn't like the frequency. Most newer amplifier power ratings are conducted with a one kilohertz test tone... Whereas back in the day, we would test twenty hertz to twenty kilohertz. By cranking your bass knob, you are causing your amplifier to clip much earlier. Regardless, it's an interesting video.
Awesome video just what i was looking for. My brother and I have been screwing around trying to do this for the last few weeks and I kinda figured that we weren't testing volts, amps or rms correctly. We are using Klein tools clamp meters as well, he just bought one for this reason and I already had one. I like your teaching style you don't just stand around holding the camera pointing to stuff and loosely explaining how to do it you are actually doing it and explain exactly what you do. Thanks!
@@peerguy He's about as good at math as he is on doing car interiors. That's the most low rent hooptiemobile I've ever seen. He probably built his subwoofer box with popsicle sticks.
now now fellas, go ezy on him. he just found out on camera that that subwoofer his buddy sold him really isnt what he thought he was buying, bottoming out @ 440 watts. 8-x....great info thank you
I appreciate the videos and learn more and more. I need to ask, though, I always hear consistent power is a must for a system regardless if it is a 12, 14 or 16 volts. A suggestion, make a video on power and everything that must be considered.
A clamp meter is never used clamping it on both wires...... Doing so will cancel each other out due to the opposing magnetic fields and having a false reading. Only one wire is to be measured, normally the Positive.
Ok, having been around the same old block a few times... You should state what input noise you are using, white noise, pink noise, and what they are weighted at. Or a sine at whatever freq and what is the Q? A singular sine at lets say 1K test tone will give a different response to when a different load is added. The load will respond differently to freq depending on the manufacturer specs for the speaker type(high - mid - low or whatever config). In this case^ you are taking the lowest freq to try do an RMS measurement. But what is the crossover slope and are there errant freq that are just generating heat, since the efficiency of a speaker is better measured at dB SPL @ 1m for total output. You are rating power consumption and not the end result, if this is for finding out what your total current draw would be at the lowest freq range, then yes it will exponentially decrease as you head up in the freq range which will give you a ballpark figure. So as a base measurement you will get an estimate, but no where close to what the actual draw is vs. the output.
@@mashedpotatoes5323 No. You are wrong... clamp meters can go much higher than that to over a 1000 amps after which the induction current will no longer display. You could also do a comparative using the relevant curve increase to get a standard measurement
This is not accurate way of finding wattage, just a ballpark at said freq.. phase angle and amp efficiency at said frequency has to be accounted for and factored in to get real world Rms wattage. There is some wrong with that sub.
Can you make this type of vid (getting correct wattage); setting up a 4 channel amp in bridge mode?? I needed more power for the speakers so I am running two 4channels in bridge mode to the doors. Worried something is gonna blow bc I never saw them meter anything during install. TIA!
so on the last run, 28x24 is 672 watts? i'm really surprised the sub is bottoming out at that wattage.. all the more reason for a 4th order, eh? good video bro
Yea man I have no clue why the sub is making noise without clipping or dirty power at that power level. I'm thinking it's the box is either to big or the sub has an issue idk. I'm lost as to why the sub makes the noise after a certain volume level it's weird. I will consider a 4th order to come I'm sure :)
@@JacobViral2 also make sure there's no coil rub if you can move the sub up and down. sub seems mounted center but if it's not maybe the coil moves around during high excursion? try touching the spider pressing down in random spots and see if there's any ticks. other wise my recommendation of the hd10 d1 is at full tilt. good value good power handling sub 1500w rms 3k max 3 inch vc 300 oz mag
@@notyobiz6207 to add to what he just said in speakers with tight voice coils and boxes with un even pressures you can get cone rock where instead of the cone going linearly in and out the uneven pressures in the box can cause the cone to go in and crooked causing voice coil rubbing and eventuall damage, the soultion in high spl pro audio is to have the 4 ports on the corners of the sub , or at least 2 ports on the left and right of woofer, or just one big ass slot
It’s kinda odd that reputable companies like DD audio recommend this for “ clamping am amp “ it can be useful info with an Oscope b/c the Oscope tells you how clean the waveform is.
22 to 20 isn't even half a thousand watts based on you saying you need to multiple the two numbers. You gotta be more clear on exactly what your doing. Do you multiple then times by 2? Cause that would equal 880 watts but what you said only equals 440
@@JacobViral2 so i was doing 2 ohm × 650 watts target with a square root being 36 volts with multimeter but are you really sappost to count ohm rise as well when doing this to set gains or is mutiplying by the standing ohm is the way?
What I'm trying to figure out is how is 22 x 20 just under a thousand? Its just under half a thousand by more than 10 percent!! 440 is only 44 percent of a thousand. One is just under a thousand also when compared to a billion or trillion I think maybe the method might work especially since I'll never be able to afford a real SMD AMM1 or any other kind of audio analyzer. It seems sound. But that math, my god
You're measurement is incorrect... You don't consider the Frequency Effect - AC Meters are sensitive to frequency and should not be used on frequencies other than design frequency. The manufactures rate these meter’s accuracy based on being able to produce a displayed reading that is accurate to some amount, usually in root mean square. If you look at the specs for a digital meter they will degrade the accuracy as the frequency goes up. This should give you a clue. A digital meter has to convert the signal from analog to digital. To do this with any accuracy for a constantly changing voltage, you have to take enough samples to do accurate RMS calculations. So the clock rate of the A/D converter has to be high enough to take these samples and send them to the embedded processor to make the calculations and display them.
Fuse Size? How come everyone is taking the output watts then dropping say 0.8% for loss in a “Class-D” amp, 13.8Vdc supply with a 1,000 watt amp and coming up with 90 amp fuse to protect the input. The power solving math doesn’t work like that on an expense “Buck to Buck” boost to run a “Class-D” amp output. The amp clamp should be on the alternator B+ supply side to measure the amps drawn, not output. This is off topic as I know you are discussing “Clipping” frequency’s but they are not using voltage drop for wire sizing or a good amp clamp on power supply, then purchase the fuse closest to input needs then undersize if the values fall in between fuses. A small ANL as with most fuses will handle in-rush current in cold equipment for several seconds until it warms up, then current drops. The box, technical service will tell you one thing but an amp clamp will show actual amperage requirements. Who wants a thermal event. Add amp #1, amp #2 and DSP if any then pick a fuse for each, add those up and for heavens sake add that fuse at the battery or alternator source! DK, ASE master tech since 1978
Noooooo! U didn't just say ur not going to hit clipping (when EVERYONE watching this except true audiophile installers/salesman.. WILL NOT know their clipping volume on their deck OR sub... Not saying ur wrong at all... But I would say to "turn it up on deck, lowest gain setting, then increase gain to distortion, and back it off a MM.... Then... Find out all that
Loved this lesson just wish I had a lot of meters to measure my system nice work Jacob I hope we meet one day and you film my ride and I give you a demo. I need a ssa meter to measure my dbs😀
@@JacobViral2 I appreciate it. I could be doing this wrong, but followed everything, just listening to music, strong bass music, and the volts and clamp barely get high, and the car is booming. Volts are at like 1.3 and amps are at like .8. What does this mean? Hard to believe that multiplying this is the wattage coming out of the amp. I must be doing this wrong or lack understanding. Any advice?
@@alwaysbeeurself I always like to test one frequency with the volume max near clip so it's measurable. Lower volume on music will be harder but yes works. usually not 100% eff but gives ball park.
~5% accuracy of Your clamp meter, non-TRUE-RMS volt meter with ~10% accuracy and most of all, no phase shift measurement between Voltage and Current... absolutely useless video Jacob. It would be much closer to the real numbers if You measured max DC current going to the amp and multiply it by the lowest DC voltage seen by the input (during the load), and the result to be multiplied by 0.8 (typical Class D efficiency)
so if you have a true rms meter it will work? i have some nice uni-t meters with ac\dc clamp, a/c dc in rush, true rms, all the bells and whistles . . .there has to be a way to this, but i cant find a single video on how to due it properly
Thank You ! Finally someone said it...but it is only the beginning. For real though, & I say this with respect...please pull this video, as it is riddled with confusing & conflicting methods of what should be simple audio configuration. For the most part you are informative, not quite subscriber ready..but hey..You had a bad day...& knowledgeable people have told you long enough. Just because you can broadcast, & starving for an audience.. doesn't mean you should be part of the plague by presenting misleading media. Thank you for your efforts.
The only thing I got out of that was he was able to find results that were good for him..as far as the lesson ..Talks way to fast like he in rush to catch a plane..us nebees..don't know all the terminology...I have Noo idea where he connected the volt meter... The only thing I got out of it is what to use an that it can be done
Who taught you this and also did you get a second opinion or research yourself? Any information in life should always be questioned as well as have multiple confirming sources at bare minimum especially when making a how to video that could lead to many people following bad practices. Still entertaining though and your 2 x 4’s crack me up every time 🤣🤣🤣
I'm confused on how you do math, you took 22 volts x 22amps and got "a little under a 1000 watts"??... My math got about 440 watts....and then you took 28v x 24 amps and got "700 to 800 watts"....again my math got 672 watts. Not sure why you are exaggerating it makes no sense to in your "concept" as you seem to say. Oh, and you soo were clipping, anyone who does audio knows you were clipping and clipping HARD
Clamp Meter I use: amzn.to/2OSgDRm & amzn.to/3co0YBe
THANKS FOR WATCHING and SUBSCRIBING! MORE VIDEOS TO COME!
Can u put the clamp meter on the positive wire of the amp instead of the speaker positive wire.?
Put the subwoofer in the box like it’s meant the air is what helps keeps it from being bottomed out in the air keeps the speaker cooled
Or idk keep it around recommended wattage like he clearly states he's going above that
You were 100% clipping. That's why your subwoofer (as you put it) didn't like the frequency. Most newer amplifier power ratings are conducted with a one kilohertz test tone... Whereas back in the day, we would test twenty hertz to twenty kilohertz. By cranking your bass knob, you are causing your amplifier to clip much earlier. Regardless, it's an interesting video.
Awesome video just what i was looking for. My brother and I have been screwing around trying to do this for the last few weeks and I kinda figured that we weren't testing volts, amps or rms correctly. We are using Klein tools clamp meters as well, he just bought one for this reason and I already had one. I like your teaching style you don't just stand around holding the camera pointing to stuff and loosely explaining how to do it you are actually doing it and explain exactly what you do. Thanks!
Your welcome thanks for watching and subscribing.
22x20 = 440 how come you said almost 1000 watts?
Ask his middle school math teacher how good he was in basic maths..
@@peerguy He's about as good at math as he is on doing car interiors. That's the most low rent hooptiemobile I've ever seen. He probably built his subwoofer box with popsicle sticks.
now now fellas, go ezy on him. he just found out on camera that that subwoofer his buddy sold him really isnt what he thought he was buying, bottoming out @ 440 watts. 8-x....great info thank you
@@pryngeyes haha great fun 🤩
I'm glad I wasn't the only one questioning this gentlemen
"That's 22 and 20...that was a little under a thousand watts to that sub."
Uhh...Nope! 22v x 20a = 440 watts
I appreciate the videos and learn more and more. I need to ask, though, I always hear consistent power is a must for a system regardless if it is a 12, 14 or 16 volts. A suggestion, make a video on power and everything that must be considered.
A clamp meter is never used clamping it on both wires...... Doing so will cancel each other out due to the opposing magnetic fields and having a false reading. Only one wire is to be measured, normally the Positive.
He clamped both positive speaker wires.
Ok, having been around the same old block a few times... You should state what input noise you are using, white noise, pink noise, and what they are weighted at. Or a sine at whatever freq and what is the Q? A singular sine at lets say 1K test tone will give a different response to when a different load is added. The load will respond differently to freq depending on the manufacturer specs for the speaker type(high - mid - low or whatever config). In this case^ you are taking the lowest freq to try do an RMS measurement. But what is the crossover slope and are there errant freq that are just generating heat, since the efficiency of a speaker is better measured at dB SPL @ 1m for total output. You are rating power consumption and not the end result, if this is for finding out what your total current draw would be at the lowest freq range, then yes it will exponentially decrease as you head up in the freq range which will give you a ballpark figure. So as a base measurement you will get an estimate, but no where close to what the actual draw is vs. the output.
This is also why you are clipping.
Your the best bro been watching your video's for years and years 😊
thanks ruben
Might be wrong, but you could likely use two voltage meters. One set to volts, other to amps.
Almost all multimeters can only measure up to 10amps, so yes you are wrong.
@@mashedpotatoes5323 No. You are wrong... clamp meters can go much higher than that to over a 1000 amps after which the induction current will no longer display. You could also do a comparative using the relevant curve increase to get a standard measurement
Great explanation, but looks like you gotta issues with your system. Are you running it at 4ohms or something?
I have that same yellow multimeter I think everybody just about owns that same model
This is not accurate way of finding wattage, just a ballpark at said freq.. phase angle and amp efficiency at said frequency has to be accounted for and factored in to get real world Rms wattage.
There is some wrong with that sub.
Can you make this type of vid (getting correct wattage); setting up a 4 channel amp in bridge mode??
I needed more power for the speakers so I am running two 4channels in bridge mode to the doors.
Worried something is gonna blow bc I never saw them meter anything during install.
TIA!
Youl be fine just make sure your bridge amps isn’t past 4 ohm as most bridges 4 channels are only 4 ohm stable
so on the last run, 28x24 is 672 watts? i'm really surprised the sub is bottoming out at that wattage.. all the more reason for a 4th order, eh? good video bro
for temporary you could put it magnet side down for more cone control (box is 1.2 and magnet takes up room so maybe less space could do that?)
Yea man I have no clue why the sub is making noise without clipping or dirty power at that power level. I'm thinking it's the box is either to big or the sub has an issue idk. I'm lost as to why the sub makes the noise after a certain volume level it's weird. I will consider a 4th order to come I'm sure :)
@@JacobViral2 also make sure there's no coil rub if you can move the sub up and down. sub seems mounted center but if it's not maybe the coil moves around during high excursion? try touching the spider pressing down in random spots and see if there's any ticks. other wise my recommendation of the hd10 d1 is at full tilt. good value good power handling sub 1500w rms 3k max 3 inch vc 300 oz mag
@@notyobiz6207 to add to what he just said in speakers with tight voice coils and boxes with un even pressures you can get cone rock where instead of the cone going linearly in and out the uneven pressures in the box can cause the cone to go in and crooked causing voice coil rubbing and eventuall damage, the soultion in high spl pro audio is to have the 4 ports on the corners of the sub , or at least 2 ports on the left and right of woofer, or just one big ass slot
Will this work the same on brazillian amps? I heard its inaccurate on brazillan amps
I honestly do not now as I've never tested so don't want to be say sorry.
this works on any amp. its ohms law. this us pure math
When your playing music will it be playing steadily at 50hz/60hz why not set everything with typical music you would play everyday ?
For testing power it’s easier to read by tone instead of music. But you can do either works for you
@@JacobViral2 thanks brotha jus was curious leading car Audio quite rapid
Nice system👍 but you're subwoofer doesn't seem to like anything. Is the box-size right?
It is tuned high and still breaking in. Idk if the box is to big or small unsure tbh.
It’s kinda odd that reputable companies like DD audio recommend this for “ clamping am amp “ it can be useful info with an Oscope b/c the Oscope tells you how clean the waveform is.
so um just curious. What frequency did that sub prefer in that enclosure?
38-52hz
Is there a way to lower box rise ? A smaller box maybe?
Every little change can affect it and no real true answer as so many variables. Trial and error.
If I’m wired @.2OHMS am i dividing the 2 numbers and then what do I do exactly?
It’ll just show you the result regardless of that your wiring at.
22 to 20 isn't even half a thousand watts based on you saying you need to multiple the two numbers. You gotta be more clear on exactly what your doing. Do you multiple then times by 2? Cause that would equal 880 watts but what you said only equals 440
Hi Jacob what’s a good decibel meter app. New sub here
Hey man welcome, so I use the SSA xplicitaudio.com/product-category/installation/tools/?ref=3229 example but also alot use the mini lab or spllab.
what head unit is that?
was this with your subsonic all the way open?
It was up quite a bit for this.
sp what if you are clipping before rated rms output
Just voltage drop and impedance ohm rise, so will see less than rated
@@JacobViral2 so i was doing 2 ohm × 650 watts target with a square root being 36 volts with multimeter but are you really sappost to count ohm rise as well when doing this to set gains or is mutiplying by the standing ohm is the way?
Does the speaker actually need to plugged in?
Yes so the amp had a impedance to measure from.
Will this work only with one multimeter? Thanks
No you need to be able to find the amps
@@russelhouck143 same
Yes you can
1st time measure volt
2nd time measure ampere
Ok
I’m sorry but did you watch the video? Wtf 😬 sure do whatever you want don’t do it the way he explained
If you have a UEI clamp meter you can measure both at the same time. That’s the only meter I know that will do that.
What I'm trying to figure out is how is 22 x 20 just under a thousand? Its just under half a thousand by more than 10 percent!! 440 is only 44 percent of a thousand. One is just under a thousand also when compared to a billion or trillion
I think maybe the method might work especially since I'll never be able to afford a real SMD AMM1 or any other kind of audio analyzer. It seems sound. But that math, my god
Your reading the voltage in AC mode??
Yes
What in the live in a vannnnnn......down by the r....i....v....e....r is gooooiiiinnngggg onnnnn right heeeerrrrreeeee!?! Lol
You're measurement is incorrect...
You don't consider the Frequency Effect - AC Meters are sensitive to frequency and should not be used on frequencies other than design frequency.
The manufactures rate these meter’s accuracy based on being able to produce a displayed reading that is accurate to some amount, usually in root mean square. If you look at the specs for a digital meter they will degrade the accuracy as the frequency goes up.
This should give you a clue. A digital meter has to convert the signal from analog to digital. To do this with any accuracy for a constantly changing voltage, you have to take enough samples to do accurate RMS calculations. So the clock rate of the A/D converter has to be high enough to take these samples and send them to the embedded processor to make the calculations and display them.
Did you get that 2x4 car stereo install kit from Crutchfield? 😂
Maybe 😂
Fuse Size? How come everyone is taking the output watts then dropping say 0.8% for loss in a “Class-D”
amp, 13.8Vdc supply with a 1,000 watt amp and coming up with 90 amp fuse to protect the input. The power solving math doesn’t work like that on an expense “Buck to Buck” boost to run a “Class-D” amp output.
The amp clamp should be on the alternator B+ supply side to measure the amps drawn, not output.
This is off topic as I know you are discussing “Clipping” frequency’s but they are not using voltage drop for wire sizing or a good amp clamp on power supply, then purchase the fuse closest to input needs then undersize if the values fall in between fuses. A small ANL as with most fuses will handle in-rush current in cold equipment for several seconds until it warms up, then current drops.
The box, technical service will tell you one thing but an amp clamp will show actual amperage requirements. Who wants a thermal event.
Add amp #1, amp #2 and DSP if any then pick a fuse for each, add those up and for heavens sake add that fuse at the battery or alternator source!
DK, ASE master tech since 1978
Love you videos man awesome teacher !
Thanks Greg glad to help. Subscribe if you haven’t
Noooooo! U didn't just say ur not going to hit clipping (when EVERYONE watching this except true audiophile installers/salesman.. WILL NOT know their clipping volume on their deck OR sub... Not saying ur wrong at all... But I would say to "turn it up on deck, lowest gain setting, then increase gain to distortion, and back it off a MM.... Then... Find out all that
Lowest "amp" gain setting... And use the amp gain WITH FULL POWER/Volume
You got all that power going to that one sub geez
👍 yep thanks for watching! More videos of my newer setup on the channel
Loved this lesson just wish I had a lot of meters to measure my system nice work Jacob I hope we meet one day and you film my ride and I give you a demo. I need a ssa meter to measure my dbs😀
672w rms
Thanks man. I was wondering how to do that.
You're welcome glad to help
Thanks bro
Glad to help
You got the voltmeter on the wrong setting you have it on AC instead of DC
Go-Rilla gotta get myself a clamp. :-)
can i just do this test by playing music instead of a test tone?
Correct
@@JacobViral2 I appreciate it. I could be doing this wrong, but followed everything, just listening to music, strong bass music, and the volts and clamp barely get high, and the car is booming. Volts are at like 1.3 and amps are at like .8. What does this mean? Hard to believe that multiplying this is the wattage coming out of the amp. I must be doing this wrong or lack understanding. Any advice?
@@alwaysbeeurself I always like to test one frequency with the volume max near clip so it's measurable. Lower volume on music will be harder but yes works. usually not 100% eff but gives ball park.
Voltage is on AC.?
~5% accuracy of Your clamp meter, non-TRUE-RMS volt meter with ~10% accuracy and most of all, no phase shift measurement between Voltage and Current... absolutely useless video Jacob. It would be much closer to the real numbers if You measured max DC current going to the amp and multiply it by the lowest DC voltage seen by the input (during the load), and the result to be multiplied by 0.8 (typical Class D efficiency)
so if you have a true rms meter it will work? i have some nice uni-t meters with ac\dc clamp, a/c dc in rush, true rms, all the bells and whistles . . .there has to be a way to this, but i cant find a single video on how to due it properly
I bet that subwoofer hits!!!
Hey man nice sub
thanks Aneel!
22*20 is not just under 1000... Why don't you match the amp to the power handling of the sub and the speakers so you don't clip🙄
that’s not what clipping is
Thank You ! Finally someone said it...but it is only the beginning. For real though, & I say this with respect...please pull this video, as it is riddled with confusing & conflicting methods of what should be simple audio configuration. For the most part you are informative, not quite subscriber ready..but hey..You had a bad day...& knowledgeable people have told you long enough. Just because you can broadcast, & starving for an audience.. doesn't mean you should be part of the plague by presenting misleading media. Thank you for your efforts.
Yeah you got a crappy sub if it's bottoming out at less than 500 watts....
Way too much wood in that ford
So your sub can't handle shit, it looks big for nothing 😂 even he could not give us how much power Hus amp is actually putting out.
Dam don't have a clamp meter
The only thing I got out of that was he was able to find results that were good for him..as far as the lesson ..Talks way to fast like he in rush to catch a plane..us nebees..don't know all the terminology...I have Noo idea where he connected the volt meter... The only thing I got out of it is what to use an that it can be done
Very nice
Who taught you this and also did you get a second opinion or research yourself? Any information in life should always be questioned as well as have multiple confirming sources at bare minimum especially when making a how to video that could lead to many people following bad practices. Still entertaining though and your 2 x 4’s crack me up every time 🤣🤣🤣
Jacob 👌💣👌
Denis :)
@@JacobViral2 you are audio scientist yeahhh
Lol
I'm confused on how you do math, you took 22 volts x 22amps and got "a little under a 1000 watts"??... My math got about 440 watts....and then you took 28v x 24 amps and got "700 to 800 watts"....again my math got 672 watts. Not sure why you are exaggerating it makes no sense to in your "concept" as you seem to say. Oh, and you soo were clipping, anyone who does audio knows you were clipping and clipping HARD