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Is the power capacity on the speakers for 1 speaker or both. I have a Yamaha MG16/6FX 16. My monitors are The Presonus Eris E3.5 and I have a Behringer U-Phoria UM2 Audio Interface. What should the specs of my amplifier be? Thanks in advance
@@AudioUniversity I need an amp to power the mixer. The monitors are going into the mixer. I just wanna make sure I dont blow anything out so I need to know what amp I need for that mixer
I was just stopping by and thought I'd take a short look. I'm not going to take the time and give you my resume, but everything you said was right on the money. You were however scratching the surface. One thing people should note. Power is normally measured at 1000 HZ for one minute, and not while the amplifier is producing an output under a range of frequencies continuously. All amplifier specs are fudged to make them appear better than they really are in a real world application. If someone listens to 10 watts RMS at 20 to 20 KHz with a 200 watt RMS amp and then listens to the same program material and speakers on an amplifier pushing 35 watts RMS. They will notice a huge difference in sound. It's always best in my opinion to find an amplifier with the widest possible frequency range, the most power and is within budgetary constraints. All audio engineers are super critical about sound quality. An amplifier that can go from dc to 30 KHz will struggle less to produce audio in the 20 to 20KHz range, and be able to more precisely control the movement of the speakers (damping factor) as well as a have higher dynamic range. I generally prefer to use Crown amps. I could go on but I'm going to cut this short and not steal your thunder. Have a great night.
I think he is merely trying to simplify it for us ignorant music fanatics who want better sound but we don’t know exactly how to get there. I think common sense would tell someone that they don’t wanna over amp the speaker or is it the speaker that over amps the amplifier. Ha either way common sense tells you it’s not the right way to go but then the ratings on the amps are not correct in description listings and the same with speakers. These are usually not correct either unless you test them. I know I don’t need a 7000 W precision power amp for six focal Access 6.5‘s and 2- 8” subs, but I bet it would sound good! As long as I didn’t turn it up too high. I don’t even know if I should use a mono block set up for six 6.5 speakers or if I should go with a 6 channel amp. I wish there was a way to understand the high-end components and how they work together so that I could provide high-quality sound for my 70 Mustang.
Can you help me solve : I have speakers that are rated 125w per channel x2 and nominal oms are 6. What amp specs do I need to shop for please ? Happy I found this video but still not sure what to buy...
@@PortofinoArts look for an amp that can provide 200 watts rms per channel at 8 ohms. Once installed, set your head unit at 75% of its max volume, set the gains so that the speakers are just below distortion (do NOT let the speakers distort!!!), and then never go above that volume on the head unit. For your setup, you should wear earplugs while setting gains.
This is the 6th video I have watched on yoire channel so far and I am absorbing so much information and education already and it is a absolute huge help! I started myself a project recently, bought a bunch of these old school concert speakers off a sound production guy, knowing this would not be a easy project with so much involved in sound itself, but I've read countless forums with None of them giving me the right education and information I need and youre channel dude is awesome! Love these videos and they have helped me learn so much about sound already! Especially this video as I have 8 speakers im doing up always wondered how many amps or what sort of amps would I need to be able to power the Goliath speakers and this has helped heaps! Looking forward to watching more
Just a thought... Instead of saying "we should use amplifiers with twice the amount of power then that of a speakers continuous power", we should rather say "we should use amplifiers with half the amount of power then that of a speakers peak power". The reason for this is, some speaker manufacturers continuous power is already half of its peak power capabilities. In other words, some speakers don't have a Program power rating. They'll just say, "Cont.Power = 500W & Peak Power = 1000W. If we go by the first rule, as in this video, we would choose an amp of double the continuous power and give the speaker 1000W, which is too much. If we follow the second rule, we would give the speaker 500W, which is the better choice in that case. Following the second rule, we would practically always be safe, regardless of the way manufacturers spec their speakers. BTW, I like your videos man! thanks.
Thanks, Christiaan. I like to choose amplifiers that provide headroom beyond the continuous power rating of the speaker. If you do this, just make sure not to turn the amp all of the way up past the sound of speaker distortion and the speaker will be safe from exceeding its peak rating.
Best video by far on TH-cam on this topic however I go a little differently on how I approach this. Firstly I match the dBu Outs and Ins, then If I have a Speaker with let's say 1000 watts continuous, and 4000 watts peak. I'll try to cover some portion of the in between section between continues and peak. To cover my back I'll also use a DSP, but to use a DSP you need to know the threshold at which we're going into peak territory. If I have an amp that does 1800 watts, then I'll do 10 x Log(AmpW/TargetW) So 10 x Log(1800/1000) which is -2.55 dB plus I like to round down to the first decimal to be extra safe since most DSPs don't have two decimal places so It's -2.6dB. So I set that as my threshold and everything after then is peaks and I allow for overshoot up to 0dBfs. It'd love to hear from you guys if you think I could do anything better than that as I'm always open in improving and new ways of going about these sort of things
For professional audio equipement it can be "easy". If you look at amplifier specs they will always give a the max output rating and also at what input the amplifier will deliver that power (typically +4dBu, some amps can have a switch to select different input sensitivities). If you choose a amplifier with 1dB of headroom (that's about 25% more power than what the speaker can handle) just set the output limiter on your DSP at +3dBu. You can lower the output limiter slightly if you want to play it safe, but a good professional speaker will be able to handle a little more than its specs. Very important : always have the gain/volume pots on your amplifiers at maximum! Of course if for example you have some crazy DJ that doesn't know the purpose of a VU meter (like a lot of them) you better lower your output limiters (or kick him in the nuts). In nearly 20 years I have never blown up a single speaker and wasn't afraid to sometimes drive them past their specs. Even all the installs I did in clubs have never seen a broken speaker component unless someone messed with the DSP.
@@ppdan Thats really interesting. Tbh something I've had in mind lately is that the wires also cause some attenuation and i feel as if it'd be a great idea when there's plenty of time on hands to take the time to measure the resistance and convert it to db to find the loss and make up for it on the amplifier so i can properly set the speaker to its rated limits. But I never knew about the fact that amplifiers have switchable input sensitivities, I only knew it was true for DSP's. In my opinion it'd set it as high as I can to improve the signal to noise ratio both on the dsp and Amplifier side which means it'd turn up the dsp output as high as i can and turn it down on the amp to have the least amount of noise. The only reason I woudn't do it though is in the case I have idiots who keep fucking around with the knobs without knowing what could come of it. The club I used to work at had a dj that would go to the back room and mess with the amp pots. So unfortunately we have to take those people into account in our calculations lol
Hello. I guess there is also a third spec important, namely speaker sensitivity, measured in dB/1watt/1meter distance. This actually tells you how loud a speaker will go at a certain volume knob position. If that spec is very low (f.i. 85dB) you automatically have to crank the volume kouder to get the same SPL as with one that does for instance 95 dB. This will eventually lead to amp clipping more rapidly as with the high sensitivity ones. My situation is: Amp - 170watt into 6ohm. Speaker - 6ohm 180 watt rms 93dB sensitivity. You will see this is not the ideal situation regarding RMS values, but I guess this is compensated by the high sensitivty so I do not have to crank it. In my home situation I almost never go beyond - 15dB below reference level (except for some low quality under saturated source material) because that actually makes my ears bleed in soms cases. -10 on the knob and I only have to wait for police knocking at my door. Under reverence level however still not any clipping present..my speakers are Infinity Delta 70 and sound great! My amp never gets hot also. I Actually do not have the financial means to buy seperate power amps that go 300-350 RMS. But I guess in my specific situation I do not really need that. What's your opinion on this? Greetz from Holland.
I don't know much about stereo systems, but I'm trying to learn. I'm not sure of what I need to be looking for in an amp. I plan on getting new door speakers also, there are door speakers in the front and back seat of my car. I have a box with 2 subs in it. So how many channels do I need my amp to have? Or should I run separate amps for the subs and door speakers?
I've noticed the wattage/speaker calculations for guitar v power amps are completely different. Bass guitarist here, I was thinking about using a power amp with a preamp as an alternative to a guitar specific amp, and the recommendation for guitar amp wattage is less than the wattage of your guitar speakers, and you are expected to be able to max out the volume of your amp without clipping. I don't know why, but nobody ever talks about headroom for guitar amps, but for power amps you're recommended to get the rms wattage of at least double the rms wattage of your speaker, but isn't the peak power rating the "headroom?" If not, then a power amp with 400 watts is basically equivalent to a 200 watt guitar amp because you arent supposed to push a PA to max, but you are for a guitar amp. I'm not criticizing anyone I'm just confused and looking for an answer, if anybody knows I would really appreciate it.
I can't find an answer anywhere - getting mixed info so hoping you can help. I was given a Crown Amp that is 500W @ ohms and 400W @8 ohms. I bought a pair of Elac Unifi Reference speakers with a max rating of 140W @ 6 ohms. Is this too much power? In the video, you suggest doubling the continuous W rating, but in scenario, I'm 3x the power of the max rating. I plan to listen at moderate levels with the occasional loud setting so my volume level will be adjust accordingly. Is this still too much?? Help I don't want to blow my new speakers
That match is slightly imbalanced, however, it will be totally fine as long as you keep an ear out for distortion or physical bottoming out of your woofer cones if or when you turn up the volume too much. If you ever hear any "distressed" sounds coming from your speakers then you know the amp is delivering too much of its power into those speakers and therefore you should immediately turn the volume down before damaging them, but under most more "normal" or "moderate" as you say, listening levels, especially in a home environment, you should be totally fine with that combination, and as an added bonus, the extra power that amp has will allow for much greater headroom and it will also be running at a much lower than maximum output, which will make it sound better and run cooler and longer without any strain whatsoever on the amp itself. Crown makes some really good amps, and I used to have a PowerTech2 model myself, (350/8ohms, 500/4ohms), (I think that's what it was), and I was using it to power the only speakers I had at the time, which were "only" rated at 120W RMS, and as long as I didn't ever turn up the volume to the point where I drove those speakers into distortion or bottoming out of the woofers with too much and/or too loud of bass notes, then I never had ANY problems with that setup, and I had it for MANY years before upgrading to more power capable speakers, and it sounded absolutely awesome using that amp, MUCH better than it did when just driving them with an ordinary household surround receiver, which is much worse for speakers than an amp that can (potentially) deliver "too much" power, because in order for a relatively smaller wattage amp like a home surround sound receiver to get sufficiently loud, especially during a house party or whatever, that receiver has to work extremely hard, pretty much right at it's absolute maximum output power, which makes it run extremely hot AND sound rather "harsh", because it's running so very close to clipping, which is bad for the receiver, your speaker's tweeters, AND your ears! With a larger amp that puts out much more power than what is "needed" by your speakers, (i.e. their maximum power rating), the amp is much cleaner and "smoother" sounding, also running cooler, and besides, your speakers can also handle (for brief periods of time at least), considerably higher wattage than what their continuous RMS rating is, IF that power is totally clean and undistorted, as it will be from a considerably higher power capability amp like you have... Also, speakers will ONLY take whatever power they really NEED to operate and produce the sound you want from them, they DON'T usually take in everything that an amp COULD potentially deliver to them... Unless the amp powering them is underpowered instead, so it's MUCH better to have an amp that has MORE than enough power and it be running perfectly cleanly, basically in "idle" mode, (compared to what it's capable of), than it is to have an amp that is barely able to keep up because it's either underpowered or capable of ONLY producing as many watts as your speakers are rated for, and then having THAT amp running at its maximum output and possibly momentarily, every once in a while going into mild clipping distortion, which, like I said, makes it sound "harsh" and is damaging to your tweeters AND your ears, especially long term!
Thank you sir for your xplanation clear, easy to understand, im searching to match amplifier with speaker soon to buy.... Like to know about what to match getting to know how high is the wattage of speaker for amplifier not to damage amplifier or vice versa. I got my dec ision now. Thanks
will I hear a difference in sound quality and volume if I changed out my 25 watt speaker in my Fender 25 to a 50 watt speaker ? Is it worth it ??? Or leave well enough alone ...TYVM
I have a 4 channel amplifer with 200 w each and the maximum power is 8 Ohms. So i have 2 speakers which are 250 watts each and another speaker which is 200W RMS/350W peak at 8 Ohms and planning to buy a subwoofer which is Maximum Speaker Output Power 300 W power max , 150 w rms with 8 ohms impedance . My question is will my amplifier support that without getting any problems caused ? Thank you.
I have a question. Amplifier 1500w 8Ω, 3000w 4Ω per channel, when i put on him 2x 8Ω loudspeakers per channel (he works on 4Ω now), he gives 1500w per speaker or 3000w per speaker? Thank you.
Based on your video, I am correct in running 2 amps in bridged mode so they are 2x the output of the component speakers. What is the best way to set the gains for my setup? I'm worried I'm going to eventually blow my speakers; already installed in my vehicle. TIA
Good eve Audio University, so I have a minor problem, u said that if my speaker has a power rating of 100W then the Amplifier should have 200W (double the power rating of speaker) Wattage, but I have 2 identical Speaker with the specification of Power Rating: 100W, Impedance: 6 ohms, should I choose 400W Amplifier with 200W + 200W dual channel or should I stay on 200W Amplifier with 100W + 100W dual channel?
Hello! Please I would like a recommendation for the following: my speakers (KEF Q30, 6 ohm) only indicate the following amplifier requirement of 10-125 watts. In other words, in the manual, they do not indicate what the continuous power of the speakers is. Having said that, what will be the ideal amplifier power for them? Thanks in advance for any help.
Hey, awesome video! Your videos have been teaching me so much at a pace I can actually grasp. Wondering if this scenario is correct: I have 8 speakers, each RMS @ 25w (50w max) and are 4 ohm. I am going to run 4 + 4 in a series-parallel configuration. The 4 in series would be 16ohm, plus the other 4 in series would be 16 ohm. I would run both "stacks" we'll call them, in parallel. I now require an 8ohm amplifier. As my total RMS for all 8 speakers would be 200w (keeping in mind the rule to calculate amp power is RMS x 2). Would it be correct to assume I should be looking for a 400w amplifier for this config? Thanks again!
@AudioUniversity Hello, For a combination of speakers XS-162ES at front & XS-160ES at rear, which is a suitable amplifier among XM-GS4 or XM-4ES? I require to get crystal clear sound only with some good bass. I am NOT looking for very loud sound. What are the extra things to get from XM-4ES over XM-GS4, is it only loudness or the output is far better in terms of clarity? Is it worth the price if I install XM-4ES or XM-GS4 will meet my requirements? Please let me know. Thanks!
i have 2 vintage hifi speakers that say 160 watts on the back of each do they both add up meaning i need an amp of at least lets say 400 ish for headroom or does it only need 200-250 watts counting for both big confusion hope this makes sense
I have a 6 channel amplifier able to deliver 150x2 + 250w at 8ohm per channel.. would i be able to power 2 speakers that are 3 way, meaning one channel per speaker component? Would this be fine?
I am getting a Yamaha MG12XU mixing console. Is this machine itself an "amplifier"? My understanding is it is supposed to connect directly to speakers. But in the data sheet I don't find any WATTAGE spec for the output.....
Dear Sir, your explanation is valuable!!! I got unclear point on fixing subwoofer and other 2 way speakers. If we fix subwoofer to amplifier how can we fix it? Separately from a cable directly to amplifier? Or Can we fix Subwoofer and Other speaker from same cable to the amplifier???( Amplifier-Sub- Speaker chain????) Please what is the most effective and accurate way??? I am asking This question is only for passive Subwoofers. I think for active subwoofer we can pass the cable from Subwoofer to other speaker directly because Active subwoofer can extract its own frequency and release higher frequency to the other speakers. I don't know how far I am right?????? Please give me a clean eye on this. Thanks
Usually, you will run a subwoofer and a full-range speaker on separate amplifier channels. This lets you send different signals to each speaker cabinet, use an active crossover, and balance the system.
Hi . I just got my first mixer soundcraft notpad 8fx . For output I have only Xlr female conectors. I will be able to connect with a 2 female Xlr to 2 Male rca to a amplifier from where to run my roxel rbs-300 bookshelf speakers?
Hi there Completely new at car sound systems. My mate gave me a Starsound SSWD 4000d2 subwoofer.. Wanted to find out what kinda of Amp I would be looking at?
Dear Sir, if you have any chance please create a video for the concept of Power Compression of loudspeakers. I think it is also an important part of the speaker's study.
I have a pair of 16 ohms speakers, were used by a McGregor mono double deck for mobile discos, now my son wants to do the same but the McGregor no longer works, so what amp would be ideal for the pair of speakers at 16 ohms.....thanks
Amplifiers: The controversy over tubes vs solid state presists. When response, modulation distortion and transient intermodulation distortion are below certain levels (< 1%) there should be no audible difference. Speaker wires: It can be solid, stranded, copper, oxygen free copper, silver, etc.--or even "magic" wire--as long as the resistance is kept to be less than 5% of the speaker impedance. There is no listening difference as long as the wire is of adequate size. Bear in mind, a well-designed amplifier will not have a problem with any of these wires. CD players: In the 1980's, people spoke of experiencing "no air" and "aggression" while listening to digital recordings. Today we understand the principles which are fundamental to this phenomenon, we name it Jitter, we test it, calculate it and dress it with numbers, systemize it and describe it entirely. Jitter has always been and still is the worst enemy of the digital audio format. And today it is understood. Fact: Digital audio data is 'just' 0's and 1's. There may be many formats (.wav, .aif, CD-audio) but the information is still digital. There is no loss during format conversion, provided the formats don't utilize compression. Fact: Copying CD's (if they aren't damaged physically) is a lossless procedure. You can extract CD-audio with your computer and generate a file on your hard disk. Compare this file with the file created when you extract the same audio using a $30,000 player, the resulting two files are identical. The question which naturally arises out of this paradox is: why does the $30,000 player sound better? Before we answer that question, let us first understand that at the Digital Out of a $100 CD-player we have the same 1's and 0's as we do in the $30,000 player. The only difference is in the Jitter content. Jitter only means that the data (the 1's and the 0's) is not perfectly time-aligned, but is transmitted either slightly earlier or later than it should be in the ideal case. However, this time flaw is not as great as to cause a digital error (data fallout). Now if you know that, then you must ask: so why does one CD-transport cost much more than another? Ah, Jitter. The cheap ones shake and the expensive ones don't. Well, that's true. The entire audio business of CD transports and DACs is built on the totally backward setup of the CD player containing the Master Clock and the DAC being the Slave. This results in the entire palette of innovations to lessen Jitter, starting from air drives to expensive digital cable technologies with complex math to reduce line-induced Jitter, to very carefully filtered power supplies, to all sorts of very necessary things when you want to achieve the least possible Jitter. So we have the worst possible digital scenario bringing in the most possible amount of money, because it is extremely difficult to annihilate Jitter when the CD player is the Master Clock. If you're looking for quality, this is stupid, to say the least! The whole setup should be different. As is the standard case in any pro-audio studio, it is always the playing device, the DAC, which is the Master Clock. The clock is located right next to the converter chips. That way, no line induced Jitter can appear. This clock signal is then taken from the DAC device and is used as the clock input of the signal source device, say the computer, the DAT player, or the CD player. Yes, in that setup, the CD player is receiving a more jittered clock than the DAC is, but that doesn't matter, because the DAC is doing the audio playing. When the Jittered audio signal arrives at the DAC, it is quantized into place temporally and is then played, in perfect synch with the clock oscillator, which is right next to it. But oh! In that case, you can use a $100 CD-player with a very poor power supply, a digital cable made from your average household extension cord, and still get a better sound than you'd be getting if you spent $30,000 on the best transport and digital cable! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, this is the naked, uncensored, plain truth about CD players and DACs. Their Master/Slave relationship is BACKWARDS and their prices therefore HIGH. If you don't believe this, then all you need to do is record digitally your favorite tune from a $100 CD player into your computer (provided you have a soundcard and software that doesn't add yet more lies into the equation, which is often the case, so beware!) Then borrow the most expensive CD transport you can get your hands on and repeat the experiment. The resulting sound files aren't just similar, they are identical! But the $30,000 player sounds better! How do you get them to sound the same? You only need to slave the transports to a DAC in Digital Master Mode. That's it. Identical sound, guaranteed. The least possible Jitter. The least loss.
Hello there, I would like to ask if it is possible to connect an 8ohm SPEAKER to a 4ohms AMPLIFIER? I got this 8ohm Yamaha SM15IV speakers @ 500watts cont. power rating and looking for a compatible amplifier but the thing is there are no 8ohm amps available locally so I am asking if it is possible to use a 2x1500watts, 4ohm amp with those speakers?
I guess the "pick an amplifier with 2 times the continuous power rating of the speakers" rule doesn't apply for me since in my small diy proyect I have a speaker with a max power rate of 25W and the continious power rate is 15W. The double would be 30W, exceeding the max. power rate and potentially damaging my speaker. Isn't it?
Hello sir your vedio really helps. But can I have question? I have two speakers 8oms each but my amplier is speaker connectors A or B 6oms min ànd B+A speaker is 12oms min. Can I connect the two speaker in the amplier or not? please really need answer
With 8 ohm apm and four 8 ohm speakers (two per channel) i end up with either 4 ohms or 16 ohms on speaker end, which is safer with 8 ohm apm, or what can I do to have same ohms on both ends
Is it possible to use a 3.7v battery in the 80w or 50w amplifier or 2* 40w speakers, maybe it doesn't want to be maxed, but the sound seems to be static sound
I'd love to in future videos! I've got a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe amplifier and a 1953 Lectrolab amplifier. My guitars are a Fender American Deluxe Strat (2010) and a 1953 Silvertone 1408. What do you play?
Hi bro! I have old Bose pls1210, its said 85w. I connect it with my Sennheiser hd6xx through 6.3mm and its sound pretty nice. Is 85w too much, i mean if there is any chance it harm my headphones?
Can you help me solve : I have speakers that are rated 125w per channel x2 and nominal oms are 6. What amp specs do I need to shop for please ? Happy I found this video but still not sure what to buy... anyone?
I have a planet audio 1500w monoblock amp and has 750w at 4ohms am i able to use 2 10 inch 750w sundown subs with this amp how do i run an amp on 4 ohms and will 2 750w subs work on this setup?
Can you please help me..... I am trying to make a Bluetooth speaker does input voltage important or the current? example a 21700 battery has output 3.7v and 30A that's 111w total and my speaker rms is 40w is that okay? or does more voltage better?
This is a great video, I have lost HTRT3 Subwoofer while shiping and left with only soundbar, can you please suggest me an Amp and subwoofer i can probably fit in for sounbar ?
those are PA speakers and PA amps (the speakon connectors on both the speakers and the amp is a dead giveaway), are those really for the home or for a concert because both those are not designed for the home at all.
Yes. Although the same principles apply to both home and professional audio systems, the example shown in this video is a live sound reinforcement system.
Hi Kyle, thanks for an awesome video, can you please help me in a situation where the continuous power is not given in the specs of a specific amplifier. I have noticed numerous occasions online where only the output power is given or only the peak/maximum power is given for an amplifier or even a speaker, some speakers even shows a numerical value with ohms and watts, without showing peak or continuous. How would one determine the continuous power in these cases?
Hi mate! I got focal flax evo ps 165 fxe speakers( 80 watt rms, 160 watt max power), can i use mosconi gladen zero 4 amplifier which is showing 1,2 channels are 100 watt 3,4 channels are 210 watt? Waiting for your reply
Thank you very much for explaining. But I am choosing to buy four Pioneer TS-VR170C speakers and the best amp which pioneer provides is GM-DX874. There is no amp which can provide higher than this. Could you please help and let me know whether this four channel amp is sufficuent for 4 speakers mentioned above?
What if I measure impedance 8Ohm on 4 Ohm speaker - and technical specs for the same speaker vary from 4 Ohm to 16 Ohms. (By different manufactures - same speaker same serial number)?
Hello please guide me am having a proton bass bin rated 2400 watts at 4 ohms. now i want to buy Audio center A13 power amplifier but when i check the spec is 8Ω Stereo Power ,RMS/CH 1200W and 4Ω Stereo Power ,RMS/CH 1800W and 2Ω Stereo Power, RMS/CH 2500W and 8Ω Bridged Mono Power, RMS 3600W 4Ω Bridged Mono Power, RMS 5400W. when i do my calculation it says i need 3600 watts per channel is this amp good ?
Need a help here anyway to prevent my concerns!:D I have two cabinets: Marshall 1922 (unit impedance: 8Ω mono, 16Ω stereo) and Marshall Code 412 (unit impedance: 8Ω ) Can I connect my Marshall MG100HGFX (speaker min. 4Ω load) by just simply plugging these two cabinets into this amp (8+8) ?)
Hey bro I have a quick question what cabinet should I buy? I have a mark bass combo amp at 8ohms but I want a cabinet because my combo alone isn’t too loud but I don’t wanna over heat it
Only the continuous power rating of the speakers on a given channel. It’s helpful to think of each channel of the amplifier as an independent amp (assuming you aren’t bridging or using an amp with flex power).
Hi, I have a vintage amp and my output is 16 ohms. I have a single woofer ( 16 ohm) and Tweeter (16 ohm) hooked up to the amp through a cross-over. My tweeter is toast so I bought a new Tweeter from Pyle ( PH-391) but it is only 8 ohms. How do I wire this into my set up. My cross-over has a 15 ohm and 33 ohm resistor along with a 3.0 uf Capacitor. Do these new tweeters even need a cross-over ..I am confused. Any help appreciated.
I have 2 3-way component speakers (Audison APK 163) for the front and back. I also have a Audison APBX 10 AS2 Prima Subwoofer. What is the best amplifier for this set-up of 12 total speakers and a subwoofer?
All this idiocy like 400 watts amps. For years now, my amps don't go over 2 x 10 Watts. connected to 95db floor standing units, at nominal 6 Ohm. If the volume knob, is around 11 O Clock, it's already very loud!
What should i look at in a amp? The continuous, program power, rms or peak? Its confusing. I have 2 rockville rated at 500w rms 750 program power and 1000 peak. I looked up how to get the continuous power and it said to divide the program power by 2 so the speakers continuous power is 375?
Hi .. wonderful channel. I need help please !! I have a line 6 Helix with a Harley Benton gpa-100 (solid state 100W at 8 ohms) poweramp. I want to use a guitar cab for stage sound and rehearsal. I'm considering building a 112 Celestion F12-X200 200W (8 ohms) . Would it be the Harley Benton suitable for this 200W speaker ? Thnx
I didn't quite get this. I've always thought that the amp has to be lower than the speaker so that even if the amp is turned all the way to the max it won't blow up the speakers. In my case I have the following Sansui 881 - 60wpc / 4 - 16 ohm Monitor Audio Studio 2 - 100w 8ohm / sensitivity 89dB Monitor Audio R352 - 100w 8ohm / sensitivity 91dB I never really go past half the volume with my amp and for the most part I listen to it at quarter the volume as it's rather loud but I'm just confused with all the speaker - amp matching now. I really like this amp but do I really need 40W speakers now? The MA Studio 2 are already pretty small (bookshelf type). 2:18 What does "too much power mean" in the case of this video he's buying a 800W amplifier for a 500W speaker. What I had in mind was that if say my amp does 510w and the speakers can only manage 500w it will blow up the speakers. He claims in the end that it is recommended that the amp should have twice (2X) the power rating of the speaker. Dazzled! On top of that people online claim that wattage numbers were lower in the 70's (when the Sansui 881 was built) than they are now. You go figure it out.
Your current setup is ok - just make sure you don’t overdrive the input of your amplifier in an attempt to make it louder. My recommendation is just that - a recommendation. Remember that 2 times the power is only a 3dB increase. So, though it may seem like overkill, thinking about power in watts can sometimes be deceiving.
@@AudioUniversity "Overdrive the input" meaning sending higher signal in the AUX terminals? I think this can only be done if I put another amplified signal through the amplifier. I only use sources that have no higher power than powering earphones (smartphone, laptop, tuner, CD player). I had a look at the manual yesterday and although I thought I couldn't break anything in an amplifier I've notice there is a warning that in dual channel output (A+B or A+C) only speakers rated 8 & 16 ohms should be used. Using a system speaker with an impedance lower than 8ohm would reduce the composite impedance in each channel to lower than 4ohm and would lead to the breakdown of the unit. Anyway. Many thanks for getting back to me!
Hello, what would I need to properly power 4ohm 84db 30-100w speakers? Specifically I’m looking for an AVR that can handle it properly or AVR/AMP combo
so for PA rule of thumb is amp should have a higher RMS rating than the speaker, ideally double right? but what about guitar amp head to cabinet speaker matching? from what ive read it is reversed, guitar amp speaker's rms should be large enough enough to cover the rms of the amp? these rules really confuses me
Sir, an stereo amplifier 100w+100w ( 8ohm-8ohm impedance). In bridging mono connection, yes, it will become 400w mono, is their impedance increase also in mono?
Need help setting up your listening space? Check out this free resource I've created for you...
Speaker Placement Guide: audiouniversityonline.com/speaker-placement-guide/
Is the power capacity on the speakers for 1 speaker or both. I have a Yamaha MG16/6FX 16. My monitors are The Presonus Eris E3.5 and I have a Behringer U-Phoria UM2 Audio Interface. What should the specs of my amplifier be? Thanks in advance
The Presonus Eris E3.5 monitors have a built-in amplifier, so no amplifier is required!
@@AudioUniversity I need an amp to power the mixer. The monitors are going into the mixer. I just wanna make sure I dont blow anything out so I need to know what amp I need for that mixer
Are you trying to find a replacement power supply for the mixer?
@@AudioUniversity No. I was told that the mixer needs a power amp to be used by the guy I bought it from
I was just stopping by and thought I'd take a short look. I'm not going to take the time and give you my resume, but everything you said was right on the money. You were however scratching the surface. One thing people should note. Power is normally measured at 1000 HZ for one minute, and not while the amplifier is producing an output under a range of frequencies continuously. All amplifier specs are fudged to make them appear better than they really are in a real world application. If someone listens to 10 watts RMS at 20 to 20 KHz with a 200 watt RMS amp and then listens to the same program material and speakers on an amplifier pushing 35 watts RMS. They will notice a huge difference in sound. It's always best in my opinion to find an amplifier with the widest possible frequency range, the most power and is within budgetary constraints. All audio engineers are super critical about sound quality. An amplifier that can go from dc to 30 KHz will struggle less to produce audio in the 20 to 20KHz range, and be able to more precisely control the movement of the speakers (damping factor) as well as a have higher dynamic range. I generally prefer to use Crown amps. I could go on but I'm going to cut this short and not steal your thunder. Have a great night.
Do you know what amplifier will be better, I have 4 infinity kappas 93ix
I think he is merely trying to simplify it for us ignorant music fanatics who want better sound but we don’t know exactly how to get there. I think common sense would tell someone that they don’t wanna over amp the speaker or is it the speaker that over amps the amplifier. Ha either way common sense tells you it’s not the right way to go but then the ratings on the amps are not correct in description listings and the same with speakers. These are usually not correct either unless you test them. I know I don’t need a 7000 W precision power amp for six focal Access 6.5‘s and 2- 8” subs, but I bet it would sound good! As long as I didn’t turn it up too high. I don’t even know if I should use a mono block set up for six 6.5 speakers or if I should go with a 6 channel amp. I wish there was a way to understand the high-end components and how they work together so that I could provide high-quality sound for my 70 Mustang.
I Jus appreciate the knowledge I’m a up and coming sound engineer myself so I’m learning so much from all of you
Can you help me solve : I have speakers that are rated 125w per channel x2 and nominal oms are 6. What amp specs do I need to shop for please ? Happy I found this video but still not sure what to buy...
@@PortofinoArts look for an amp that can provide 200 watts rms per channel at 8 ohms. Once installed, set your head unit at 75% of its max volume, set the gains so that the speakers are just below distortion (do NOT let the speakers distort!!!), and then never go above that volume on the head unit. For your setup, you should wear earplugs while setting gains.
This is the 6th video I have watched on yoire channel so far and I am absorbing so much information and education already and it is a absolute huge help! I started myself a project recently, bought a bunch of these old school concert speakers off a sound production guy, knowing this would not be a easy project with so much involved in sound itself, but I've read countless forums with None of them giving me the right education and information I need and youre channel dude is awesome! Love these videos and they have helped me learn so much about sound already! Especially this video as I have 8 speakers im doing up always wondered how many amps or what sort of amps would I need to be able to power the Goliath speakers and this has helped heaps! Looking forward to watching more
Just a thought... Instead of saying "we should use amplifiers with twice the amount of power then that of a speakers continuous power", we should rather say "we should use amplifiers with half the amount of power then that of a speakers peak power". The reason for this is, some speaker manufacturers continuous power is already half of its peak power capabilities. In other words, some speakers don't have a Program power rating. They'll just say, "Cont.Power = 500W & Peak Power = 1000W. If we go by the first rule, as in this video, we would choose an amp of double the continuous power and give the speaker 1000W, which is too much. If we follow the second rule, we would give the speaker 500W, which is the better choice in that case. Following the second rule, we would practically always be safe, regardless of the way manufacturers spec their speakers.
BTW, I like your videos man! thanks.
Thanks, Christiaan. I like to choose amplifiers that provide headroom beyond the continuous power rating of the speaker. If you do this, just make sure not to turn the amp all of the way up past the sound of speaker distortion and the speaker will be safe from exceeding its peak rating.
Honestly you have a very good point. You would always be safe in that way, compared to the other way.
Best video by far on TH-cam on this topic however I go a little differently on how I approach this. Firstly I match the dBu Outs and Ins, then If I have a Speaker with let's say 1000 watts continuous, and 4000 watts peak. I'll try to cover some portion of the in between section between continues and peak. To cover my back I'll also use a DSP, but to use a DSP you need to know the threshold at which we're going into peak territory. If I have an amp that does 1800 watts, then I'll do 10 x Log(AmpW/TargetW) So 10 x Log(1800/1000) which is -2.55 dB plus I like to round down to the first decimal to be extra safe since most DSPs don't have two decimal places so It's -2.6dB. So I set that as my threshold and everything after then is peaks and I allow for overshoot up to 0dBfs. It'd love to hear from you guys if you think I could do anything better than that as I'm always open in improving and new ways of going about these sort of things
For professional audio equipement it can be "easy".
If you look at amplifier specs they will always give a the max output rating and also at what input the amplifier will deliver that power (typically +4dBu, some amps can have a switch to select different input sensitivities).
If you choose a amplifier with 1dB of headroom (that's about 25% more power than what the speaker can handle) just set the output limiter on your DSP at +3dBu.
You can lower the output limiter slightly if you want to play it safe, but a good professional speaker will be able to handle a little more than its specs.
Very important : always have the gain/volume pots on your amplifiers at maximum!
Of course if for example you have some crazy DJ that doesn't know the purpose of a VU meter (like a lot of them) you better lower your output limiters (or kick him in the nuts).
In nearly 20 years I have never blown up a single speaker and wasn't afraid to sometimes drive them past their specs. Even all the installs I did in clubs have never seen a broken speaker component unless someone messed with the DSP.
@@ppdan Thats really interesting. Tbh something I've had in mind lately is that the wires also cause some attenuation and i feel as if it'd be a great idea when there's plenty of time on hands to take the time to measure the resistance and convert it to db to find the loss and make up for it on the amplifier so i can properly set the speaker to its rated limits. But I never knew about the fact that amplifiers have switchable input sensitivities, I only knew it was true for DSP's. In my opinion it'd set it as high as I can to improve the signal to noise ratio both on the dsp and Amplifier side which means it'd turn up the dsp output as high as i can and turn it down on the amp to have the least amount of noise. The only reason I woudn't do it though is in the case I have idiots who keep fucking around with the knobs without knowing what could come of it. The club I used to work at had a dj that would go to the back room and mess with the amp pots. So unfortunately we have to take those people into account in our calculations lol
Hello. I guess there is also a third spec important, namely speaker sensitivity, measured in dB/1watt/1meter distance. This actually tells you how loud a speaker will go at a certain volume knob position. If that spec is very low (f.i. 85dB) you automatically have to crank the volume kouder to get the same SPL as with one that does for instance 95 dB. This will eventually lead to amp clipping more rapidly as with the high sensitivity ones. My situation is: Amp - 170watt into 6ohm. Speaker - 6ohm 180 watt rms 93dB sensitivity. You will see this is not the ideal situation regarding RMS values, but I guess this is compensated by the high sensitivty so I do not have to crank it. In my home situation I almost never go beyond - 15dB below reference level (except for some low quality under saturated source material) because that actually makes my ears bleed in soms cases. -10 on the knob and I only have to wait for police knocking at my door. Under reverence level however still not any clipping present..my speakers are Infinity Delta 70 and sound great! My amp never gets hot also. I Actually do not have the financial means to buy seperate power amps that go 300-350 RMS. But I guess in my specific situation I do not really need that. What's your opinion on this? Greetz from Holland.
😵💫
what is negative db. Boss pro s1 has -+3db and fender venue s2 has -24 db. Which one is louder?
More power is better more dynamic
I don't know much about stereo systems, but I'm trying to learn. I'm not sure of what I need to be looking for in an amp. I plan on getting new door speakers also, there are door speakers in the front and back seat of my car. I have a box with 2 subs in it. So how many channels do I need my amp to have? Or should I run separate amps for the subs and door speakers?
My speakers have built-in sub 135w(subwoofer) + 45w(main) RMS per channel. I will purchase 600watts amplifier is what safe/okay?
Hoping someone will reply..
Great explanation in only 5 minutes, thanks!
I've noticed the wattage/speaker calculations for guitar v power amps are completely different. Bass guitarist here, I was thinking about using a power amp with a preamp as an alternative to a guitar specific amp, and the recommendation for guitar amp wattage is less than the wattage of your guitar speakers, and you are expected to be able to max out the volume of your amp without clipping. I don't know why, but nobody ever talks about headroom for guitar amps, but for power amps you're recommended to get the rms wattage of at least double the rms wattage of your speaker, but isn't the peak power rating the "headroom?" If not, then a power amp with 400 watts is basically equivalent to a 200 watt guitar amp because you arent supposed to push a PA to max, but you are for a guitar amp. I'm not criticizing anyone I'm just confused and looking for an answer, if anybody knows I would really appreciate it.
My jbl control 5 is 4 ohms, do u think what amplifier should i use?
Very helpful video. Now i have an idea what speaker is fit to my crown ma5000i.
Glad to hear that, Chi Sena! Thanks!
I can't find an answer anywhere - getting mixed info so hoping you can help. I was given a Crown Amp that is 500W @ ohms and 400W @8 ohms. I bought a pair of Elac Unifi Reference speakers with a max rating of 140W @ 6 ohms. Is this too much power? In the video, you suggest doubling the continuous W rating, but in scenario, I'm 3x the power of the max rating. I plan to listen at moderate levels with the occasional loud setting so my volume level will be adjust accordingly. Is this still too much?? Help I don't want to blow my new speakers
That match is slightly imbalanced, however, it will be totally fine as long as you keep an ear out for distortion or physical bottoming out of your woofer cones if or when you turn up the volume too much. If you ever hear any "distressed" sounds coming from your speakers then you know the amp is delivering too much of its power into those speakers and therefore you should immediately turn the volume down before damaging them, but under most more "normal" or "moderate" as you say, listening levels, especially in a home environment, you should be totally fine with that combination, and as an added bonus, the extra power that amp has will allow for much greater headroom and it will also be running at a much lower than maximum output, which will make it sound better and run cooler and longer without any strain whatsoever on the amp itself.
Crown makes some really good amps, and I used to have a PowerTech2 model myself, (350/8ohms, 500/4ohms), (I think that's what it was), and I was using it to power the only speakers I had at the time, which were "only" rated at 120W RMS, and as long as I didn't ever turn up the volume to the point where I drove those speakers into distortion or bottoming out of the woofers with too much and/or too loud of bass notes, then I never had ANY problems with that setup, and I had it for MANY years before upgrading to more power capable speakers, and it sounded absolutely awesome using that amp, MUCH better than it did when just driving them with an ordinary household surround receiver, which is much worse for speakers than an amp that can (potentially) deliver "too much" power, because in order for a relatively smaller wattage amp like a home surround sound receiver to get sufficiently loud, especially during a house party or whatever, that receiver has to work extremely hard, pretty much right at it's absolute maximum output power, which makes it run extremely hot AND sound rather "harsh", because it's running so very close to clipping, which is bad for the receiver, your speaker's tweeters, AND your ears!
With a larger amp that puts out much more power than what is "needed" by your speakers, (i.e. their maximum power rating), the amp is much cleaner and "smoother" sounding, also running cooler, and besides, your speakers can also handle (for brief periods of time at least), considerably higher wattage than what their continuous RMS rating is, IF that power is totally clean and undistorted, as it will be from a considerably higher power capability amp like you have...
Also, speakers will ONLY take whatever power they really NEED to operate and produce the sound you want from them, they DON'T usually take in everything that an amp COULD potentially deliver to them... Unless the amp powering them is underpowered instead, so it's MUCH better to have an amp that has MORE than enough power and it be running perfectly cleanly, basically in "idle" mode, (compared to what it's capable of), than it is to have an amp that is barely able to keep up because it's either underpowered or capable of ONLY producing as many watts as your speakers are rated for, and then having THAT amp running at its maximum output and possibly momentarily, every once in a while going into mild clipping distortion, which, like I said, makes it sound "harsh" and is damaging to your tweeters AND your ears, especially long term!
whats is your recommended amplifier for a 1000w speaker
Thank you sir for your xplanation clear, easy to understand, im searching to match amplifier with speaker soon to buy.... Like to know about what to match getting to know how high is the wattage of speaker for amplifier not to damage amplifier or vice versa. I got my dec ision now. Thanks
will I hear a difference in sound quality and volume if I changed out my 25 watt speaker in my Fender 25 to a 50 watt speaker ? Is it worth it ??? Or leave well enough alone ...TYVM
I have Accuphase P300L & 260 i wanted to now what speakers are more suitable
I have a 4 channel amplifer with 200 w each and the maximum power is 8 Ohms.
So i have 2 speakers which are 250 watts each and another speaker which is 200W RMS/350W peak at 8 Ohms and planning to buy a subwoofer which is Maximum Speaker Output Power 300 W power max , 150 w rms with 8 ohms impedance .
My question is will my amplifier support that without getting any problems caused ?
Thank you.
I have a question.
Amplifier 1500w 8Ω, 3000w 4Ω per channel, when i put on him 2x 8Ω loudspeakers per channel (he works on 4Ω now), he gives 1500w per speaker or 3000w per speaker?
Thank you.
Based on your video, I am correct in running 2 amps in bridged mode so they are 2x the output of the component speakers. What is the best way to set the gains for my setup? I'm worried I'm going to eventually blow my speakers; already installed in my vehicle.
TIA
Good eve Audio University, so I have a minor problem, u said that if my speaker has a power rating of 100W then the Amplifier should have 200W (double the power rating of speaker) Wattage, but I have 2 identical Speaker with the specification of Power Rating: 100W, Impedance: 6 ohms, should I choose 400W Amplifier with 200W + 200W dual channel or should I stay on 200W Amplifier with 100W + 100W dual channel?
Hello! Please I would like a recommendation for the following: my speakers (KEF Q30, 6 ohm) only indicate the following amplifier requirement of 10-125 watts. In other words, in the manual, they do not indicate what the continuous power of the speakers is. Having said that, what will be the ideal amplifier power for them? Thanks in advance for any help.
Is it ok using a loudspeaker horn that is rated 16ohms with an amp that has 8ohms impedance?
Yes you can do it. But it will not work very well in same watts speaker. If you have 8 ohm 100watts amplifier. You can use 16. Ohm 50 watts speakers.
which amplifier do you recommend for a couple of JBL TLC 5000 ?
I have 2 jbl jrx 200s, the correct amp would be a 500 watt amp correct???
Hey, awesome video! Your videos have been teaching me so much at a pace I can actually grasp.
Wondering if this scenario is correct: I have 8 speakers, each RMS @ 25w (50w max) and are 4 ohm. I am going to run 4 + 4 in a series-parallel configuration. The 4 in series would be 16ohm, plus the other 4 in series would be 16 ohm. I would run both "stacks" we'll call them, in parallel. I now require an 8ohm amplifier. As my total RMS for all 8 speakers would be 200w (keeping in mind the rule to calculate amp power is RMS x 2). Would it be correct to assume I should be looking for a 400w amplifier for this config? Thanks again!
@AudioUniversity
Hello,
For a combination of speakers XS-162ES at front & XS-160ES at rear, which is a suitable amplifier among XM-GS4 or XM-4ES?
I require to get crystal clear sound only with some good bass. I am NOT looking for very loud sound.
What are the extra things to get from XM-4ES over XM-GS4, is it only loudness or the output is far better in terms of clarity?
Is it worth the price if I install XM-4ES or XM-GS4 will meet my requirements?
Please let me know. Thanks!
If speaker 2000watts at 8impedene which amplifier is best in 8impedence to handle the speaker
i have 2 vintage hifi speakers that say 160 watts on the back of each
do they both add up meaning i need an amp of at least lets say 400 ish for headroom
or does it only need 200-250 watts counting for both big confusion hope this makes sense
You’ll need an amp with two channels. The power of the amp is usually described in Watts per channel.
I have a 6 channel amplifier able to deliver 150x2 + 250w at 8ohm per channel.. would i be able to power 2 speakers that are 3 way, meaning one channel per speaker component? Would this be fine?
I am getting a Yamaha MG12XU mixing console. Is this machine itself an "amplifier"? My understanding is it is supposed to connect directly to speakers. But in the data sheet I don't find any WATTAGE spec for the output.....
Dear Sir, your explanation is valuable!!!
I got unclear point on fixing subwoofer and other 2 way speakers.
If we fix subwoofer to amplifier how can we fix it? Separately from a cable directly to amplifier? Or Can we fix Subwoofer and Other speaker from same cable to the amplifier???( Amplifier-Sub- Speaker chain????)
Please what is the most effective and accurate way???
I am asking This question is only for passive Subwoofers.
I think for active subwoofer we can pass the cable from Subwoofer to other speaker directly because Active subwoofer can extract its own frequency and release higher frequency to the other speakers.
I don't know how far I am right??????
Please give me a clean eye on this.
Thanks
Usually, you will run a subwoofer and a full-range speaker on separate amplifier channels. This lets you send different signals to each speaker cabinet, use an active crossover, and balance the system.
this video was so easy to follow thank you so much.
I appreciate you watching, SnukkieBoy! Glad it was helpful to you.
Thank you Mr. Medvedev.
Hi . I just got my first mixer soundcraft notpad 8fx . For output I have only Xlr female conectors. I will be able to connect with a 2 female Xlr to 2
Male rca to a amplifier from where to run my roxel rbs-300 bookshelf speakers?
Hi there
Completely new at car sound systems. My mate gave me a Starsound SSWD 4000d2 subwoofer.. Wanted to find out what kinda of Amp I would be looking at?
what is negative db. Boss pro s1 has -+3db and fender venue s2 has -24 db. Which one is louder?
Dear Sir, if you have any chance please create a video for the concept of Power Compression of loudspeakers.
I think it is also an important part of the speaker's study.
Thanks, Praneeth! I'll add it to the list!
I want to sing before a small public gathering wt equipments should i use? 🙏🙏
I would recommend a powered speaker. The QSC K-Series is a good option.
@@AudioUniversity and what amplifier should i use fr dt one ?
Good morning,I have Maxx-on SSA-160 amplifier with two 120watt 16oms driver unit.what is the best connection to use,is parallels or series?
I have a pair of 16 ohms speakers, were used by a McGregor mono double deck for mobile discos, now my son wants to do the same but the McGregor no longer works, so what amp would be ideal for the pair of speakers at 16 ohms.....thanks
Amplifiers:
The controversy over tubes vs solid state presists. When response, modulation distortion and transient intermodulation distortion are below certain levels (< 1%) there should be no audible difference.
Speaker wires:
It can be solid, stranded, copper, oxygen free copper, silver, etc.--or even "magic" wire--as long as the resistance is kept to be less than 5% of the speaker impedance. There is no listening difference as long as the wire is of adequate size. Bear in mind, a well-designed amplifier will not have a problem with any of these wires.
CD players:
In the 1980's, people spoke of experiencing "no air" and "aggression" while listening to digital recordings. Today we understand the principles which are fundamental to this phenomenon, we name it Jitter, we test it, calculate it and dress it with numbers, systemize it and describe it entirely. Jitter has always been and still is the worst enemy of the digital audio format. And today it is understood.
Fact: Digital audio data is 'just' 0's and 1's. There may be many formats (.wav, .aif, CD-audio) but the information is still digital. There is no loss during format conversion, provided the formats don't utilize compression.
Fact: Copying CD's (if they aren't damaged physically) is a lossless procedure. You can extract CD-audio with your computer and generate a file on your hard disk. Compare this file with the file created when you extract the same audio using a $30,000 player, the resulting two files are identical.
The question which naturally arises out of this paradox is: why does the $30,000 player sound better?
Before we answer that question, let us first understand that at the Digital Out of a $100 CD-player we have the same 1's and 0's as we do in the $30,000 player. The only difference is in the Jitter content. Jitter only means that the data (the 1's and the 0's) is not perfectly time-aligned, but is transmitted either slightly earlier or later than it should be in the ideal case. However, this time flaw is not as great as to cause a digital error (data fallout).
Now if you know that, then you must ask: so why does one CD-transport cost much more than another? Ah, Jitter. The cheap ones shake and the expensive ones don't.
Well, that's true. The entire audio business of CD transports and DACs is built on the totally backward setup of the CD player containing the Master Clock and the DAC being the Slave. This results in the entire palette of innovations to lessen Jitter, starting from air drives to expensive digital cable technologies with complex math to reduce line-induced Jitter, to very carefully filtered power supplies, to all sorts of very necessary things when you want to achieve the least possible Jitter. So we have the worst possible digital scenario bringing in the most possible amount of money, because it is extremely difficult to annihilate Jitter when the CD player is the Master Clock. If you're looking for quality, this is stupid, to say the least!
The whole setup should be different. As is the standard case in any pro-audio studio, it is always the playing device, the DAC, which is the Master Clock. The clock is located right next to the converter chips. That way, no line induced Jitter can appear. This clock signal is then taken from the DAC device and is used as the clock input of the signal source device, say the computer, the DAT player, or the CD player. Yes, in that setup, the CD player is receiving a more jittered clock than the DAC is, but that doesn't matter, because the DAC is doing the audio playing. When the Jittered audio signal arrives at the DAC, it is quantized into place temporally and is then played, in perfect synch with the clock oscillator, which is right next to it.
But oh! In that case, you can use a $100 CD-player with a very poor power supply, a digital cable made from your average household extension cord, and still get a better sound than you'd be getting if you spent $30,000 on the best transport and digital cable! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, this is the naked, uncensored, plain truth about CD players and DACs. Their Master/Slave relationship is BACKWARDS and their prices therefore HIGH.
If you don't believe this, then all you need to do is record digitally your favorite tune from a $100 CD player into your computer (provided you have a soundcard and software that doesn't add yet more lies into the equation, which is often the case, so beware!) Then borrow the most expensive CD transport you can get your hands on and repeat the experiment. The resulting sound files aren't just similar, they are identical!
But the $30,000 player sounds better! How do you get them to sound the same? You only need to slave the transports to a DAC in Digital Master Mode. That's it. Identical sound, guaranteed. The least possible Jitter. The least loss.
Bro i have seen many kinds of speaker video s
Your ones is the best i have seen thanks a lot
Wow, thanks!
Hello there, I would like to ask if it is possible to connect an 8ohm SPEAKER to a 4ohms AMPLIFIER? I got this 8ohm Yamaha SM15IV speakers @ 500watts cont. power rating and looking for a compatible amplifier but the thing is there are no 8ohm amps available locally so I am asking if it is possible to use a 2x1500watts, 4ohm amp with those speakers?
I guess the "pick an amplifier with 2 times the continuous power rating of the speakers" rule doesn't apply for me since in my small diy proyect I have a speaker with a max power rate of 25W and the continious power rate is 15W. The double would be 30W, exceeding the max. power rate and potentially damaging my speaker. Isn't it?
I have 2 ohm subs, what ohm amplifier do I need to power my 2ohm subs?
Hello sir your vedio really helps.
But can I have question? I have two speakers 8oms each but my amplier is speaker connectors A or B 6oms min ànd B+A speaker is 12oms min. Can I connect the two speaker in the amplier or not? please really need answer
It sounds like connecting 1 speaker will be ok, only using 1 channel. But using both channels at once, the amp isn't rated to power 8 ohm speakers.
@@AudioUniversity thank you so much for responding my questions it really helps🥰
Dude I have 2 3ohm speaker so which amplifier should I use
With 8 ohm apm and four 8 ohm speakers (two per channel) i end up with either 4 ohms or 16 ohms on speaker end, which is safer with 8 ohm apm, or what can I do to have same ohms on both ends
Is it possible to use a 3.7v battery in the 80w or 50w amplifier or 2* 40w speakers, maybe it doesn't want to be maxed, but the sound seems to be static sound
Two thumbs up, Kyle. Thank you.
Kyle, I see that you are a guitarist. I have been playing, for a long time myself. Show us your gear, if you don't mind.
I'd love to in future videos!
I've got a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe amplifier and a 1953 Lectrolab amplifier.
My guitars are a Fender American Deluxe Strat (2010) and a 1953 Silvertone 1408.
What do you play?
@@AudioUniversity I've got a 1980 Gibson "Firebrand" SG, that I bought in 1982.
That’s awesome! Nice!
What do you mean by singal amplifier meaning what amplifier powering 2 speakers ??
Do you have a good video that explains watts and db? Still not sure what the difference is.
Hi bro! I have old Bose pls1210, its said 85w. I connect it with my Sennheiser hd6xx through 6.3mm and its sound pretty nice.
Is 85w too much, i mean if there is any chance it harm my headphones?
Can you help me solve : I have speakers that are rated 125w per channel x2 and nominal oms are 6. What amp specs do I need to shop for please ? Happy I found this video but still not sure what to buy...
anyone?
I have a planet audio 1500w monoblock amp and has 750w at 4ohms am i able to use 2 10 inch 750w sundown subs with this amp how do i run an amp on 4 ohms and will 2 750w subs work on this setup?
If your main power amp has a low out wattage but u plan to attach a preamp for added power does this still put strain on main amp?
The input of the power amp is line level - at some point, the input will be overdriven if you pre-amplify the signal too much.
Can you please help me..... I am trying to make a Bluetooth speaker does input voltage important or the current? example a 21700 battery has output 3.7v and 30A that's 111w total and my speaker rms is 40w is that okay? or does more voltage better?
This is a great video, I have lost HTRT3 Subwoofer while shiping and left with only soundbar, can you please suggest me an Amp and subwoofer i can probably fit in for sounbar ?
Hi. The speaker power rating or RMS, is total watt for each speaker or pair?
What's the cable do I need to set up a laptop to a Denon Dn-hd2500 I'm using passive speakers
Would you suggest me spakers for nx audio ex 1400 amplifier...
Thanking you...
those are PA speakers and PA amps (the speakon connectors on both the speakers and the amp is a dead giveaway), are those really for the home or for a concert because both those are not designed for the home at all.
Yes. Although the same principles apply to both home and professional audio systems, the example shown in this video is a live sound reinforcement system.
Clear and informational video. Very nice job.
Can i use pioneer hpm 100 with kenwood ka 801 ?
Hi Kyle, thanks for an awesome video, can you please help me in a situation where the continuous power is not given in the specs of a specific amplifier. I have noticed numerous occasions online where only the output power is given or only the peak/maximum power is given for an amplifier or even a speaker, some speakers even shows a numerical value with ohms and watts, without showing peak or continuous. How would one determine the continuous power in these cases?
Hello i have 3w bluetooth amplifier and i have 15w 4ohms speaker is this ok t
With my 3w amplifier please let me know the answer..
If the specs of speaker show a range of power values, for example 20 watts -300 watts, which value do you go by? the min, the mid, or the max?
So what would the max watt power amp you would be able to use then ?
Can we connect 50w two speaker to 50watt amplifier will it load
How many watts speakers do i need for 25w per channel at 4ohms ?
Hi mate!
I got focal flax evo ps 165 fxe speakers( 80 watt rms, 160 watt max power), can i use mosconi gladen zero 4 amplifier which is showing 1,2 channels are 100 watt 3,4 channels are 210 watt? Waiting for your reply
can i use my bluetooth headset amplifier to connected speaker amplifier ,using it to make bluetooth speaker and what can i do at connection
Question please, can we power a setup in f 2 E118 sub and E112 tops with one GXD 8 ? 🙏🏽
Thank you very much for explaining.
But I am choosing to buy four Pioneer TS-VR170C speakers and the best amp which pioneer provides is GM-DX874. There is no amp which can provide higher than this.
Could you please help and let me know whether this four channel amp is sufficuent for 4 speakers mentioned above?
What if I measure impedance 8Ohm on 4 Ohm speaker - and technical specs for the same speaker vary from 4 Ohm to 16 Ohms. (By different manufactures - same speaker same serial number)?
This is great info, I am thinking of getting a new amp for my disk cutter....
Hello please guide me am having a proton bass bin rated 2400 watts at 4 ohms. now i want to buy Audio center A13 power amplifier but when i check the spec is 8Ω Stereo Power ,RMS/CH 1200W and 4Ω Stereo Power ,RMS/CH 1800W and 2Ω Stereo Power, RMS/CH 2500W and
8Ω Bridged Mono Power, RMS 3600W
4Ω Bridged Mono Power, RMS 5400W. when i do my calculation it says i need 3600 watts per channel is this amp good ?
i have a pair of Kicker CS series speakers and it says the RMS for it is 75. how many watts does my amplifier need to be?
Can i hook a 1000w 8ohm speaker to behringer km1700?
Need a help here anyway to prevent my concerns!:D
I have two cabinets: Marshall 1922 (unit impedance: 8Ω mono, 16Ω stereo) and Marshall Code 412 (unit impedance: 8Ω )
Can I connect my Marshall MG100HGFX (speaker min. 4Ω load) by just simply plugging these two cabinets into this amp (8+8) ?)
I have a pioneer elite A20 50 watts per channel. Can u please recommend me a good speaker for this amplifier. I appreciate this so much. Thank u Donna
Hey bro I have a quick question what cabinet should I buy? I have a mark bass combo amp at 8ohms but I want a cabinet because my combo alone isn’t too loud but I don’t wanna over heat it
3:08 Does that mean the continuous power rating of all speakers that i intend to connect to the amp combined?
Only the continuous power rating of the speakers on a given channel. It’s helpful to think of each channel of the amplifier as an independent amp (assuming you aren’t bridging or using an amp with flex power).
I have 2 8 ohm speakers that say to use with 5-300 watt amplifiers. What is a 5-300 watt amplifier? 5 channel 300 watt amplifier?
GXD8's are great. I love mine! You can set the limmiter to 500w in this case.
please can you make video about line array speakers ( active and passive speakers )
Hi, I have a vintage amp and my output is 16 ohms. I have a single woofer ( 16 ohm) and Tweeter (16 ohm) hooked up to the amp through a cross-over.
My tweeter is toast so I bought a new Tweeter from Pyle ( PH-391) but it is only 8 ohms. How do I wire this into my set up.
My cross-over has a 15 ohm and 33 ohm resistor along with a 3.0 uf Capacitor.
Do these new tweeters even need a cross-over ..I am confused. Any help appreciated.
I have 2 3-way component speakers (Audison APK 163) for the front and back. I also have a Audison APBX 10 AS2 Prima Subwoofer. What is the best amplifier for this set-up of 12 total speakers and a subwoofer?
All this idiocy like 400 watts amps. For years now, my amps don't go over 2 x 10 Watts. connected to 95db floor standing units, at nominal 6 Ohm. If the volume knob, is around 11 O Clock, it's already very loud!
I love your videos and I learn a lot from you but please just asking you to help me with my phonic XP 5000 how will I use it for my speaker.?
What should i look at in a amp? The continuous, program power, rms or peak? Its confusing. I have 2 rockville rated at 500w rms 750 program power and 1000 peak. I looked up how to get the continuous power and it said to divide the program power by 2 so the speakers continuous power is 375?
Hi .. wonderful channel. I need help please !! I have a line 6 Helix with a Harley Benton gpa-100 (solid state 100W at 8 ohms) poweramp. I want to use a guitar cab for stage sound and rehearsal. I'm considering building a 112 Celestion F12-X200 200W (8 ohms) . Would it be the Harley Benton suitable for this 200W speaker ? Thnx
I didn't quite get this.
I've always thought that the amp has to be lower than the speaker so that even if the amp is turned all the way to the max it won't blow up the speakers.
In my case I have the following
Sansui 881 - 60wpc / 4 - 16 ohm
Monitor Audio Studio 2 - 100w 8ohm / sensitivity 89dB
Monitor Audio R352 - 100w 8ohm / sensitivity 91dB
I never really go past half the volume with my amp and for the most part I listen to it at quarter the volume as it's rather loud but I'm just confused with all the speaker - amp matching now. I really like this amp but do I really need 40W speakers now? The MA Studio 2 are already pretty small (bookshelf type).
2:18 What does "too much power mean" in the case of this video he's buying a 800W amplifier for a 500W speaker. What I had in mind was that if say my amp does 510w and the speakers can only manage 500w it will blow up the speakers. He claims in the end that it is recommended that the amp should have twice (2X) the power rating of the speaker. Dazzled!
On top of that people online claim that wattage numbers were lower in the 70's (when the Sansui 881 was built) than they are now. You go figure it out.
Your current setup is ok - just make sure you don’t overdrive the input of your amplifier in an attempt to make it louder.
My recommendation is just that - a recommendation. Remember that 2 times the power is only a 3dB increase. So, though it may seem like overkill, thinking about power in watts can sometimes be deceiving.
@@AudioUniversity "Overdrive the input" meaning sending higher signal in the AUX terminals?
I think this can only be done if I put another amplified signal through the amplifier. I only use sources that have no higher power than powering earphones (smartphone, laptop, tuner, CD player).
I had a look at the manual yesterday and although I thought I couldn't break anything in an amplifier I've notice there is a warning that in dual channel output (A+B or A+C) only speakers rated 8 & 16 ohms should be used. Using a system speaker with an impedance lower than 8ohm would reduce the composite impedance in each channel to lower than 4ohm and would lead to the breakdown of the unit.
Anyway. Many thanks for getting back to me!
Maaaan content is really wicked! Love it 🙏🔥🔥🔥
Thanks, Peter Piper! Glad you enjoy it.
Let me see if i understood: my amplifier works at 50w per channel, so i have to buy speakers that can handle 25w?
Hello, what would I need to properly power 4ohm 84db 30-100w speakers? Specifically I’m looking for an AVR that can handle it properly or AVR/AMP combo
so for PA rule of thumb is amp should have a higher RMS rating than the speaker, ideally double right?
but what about guitar amp head to cabinet speaker matching? from what ive read it is reversed, guitar amp speaker's rms should be large enough enough to cover the rms of the amp?
these rules really confuses me
Sir, an stereo amplifier 100w+100w ( 8ohm-8ohm impedance). In bridging mono connection, yes, it will become 400w mono, is their impedance increase also in mono?
Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/2eKHQQRLpW0/w-d-xo.html
How do you size an amp for speaker tat has a high and low frequency ratings such as the JBL 4892?
Great video my man!