Yes please part 2. Comparison in STOCK VS UPGRADE. 1.)Time for pumping up 4 tyres. 2.)Temperatures of the compressor during operation both cold and hot day on the field. 3.)Wear and Tear report (3-6-9-12 months). Your awesome. Your practical and making small adjustment to affordable products and enhancing it to last longer and functional and a lot cheaper to buy and build and probably a lot easier to fix and simple especially with taking out the circuit. Keep up the great work and keep it coming.
So we I've watched this 3 times now. Once by myself and twice with the boys. You blown their minds removing the computer board and operating it with the switch and solenoid. Part 2 should definitely include a white board of the wiring. Still trying to get the younger one to equivocate a relay to a solenoid.
I did some of those things to mine when I got mine. Went up to 1/4” npt from the 1/8” that was on there originally. Secondly added a pressure regulator. Reason is the compressor can output 150, while normal air tanks are rated for 100. So regulator is set below 100 for tank safety. Ditched the spring clamps for the battery connection in favor of adding 2 gauge ran up to the front, through a 200 amp continuous load relay, which is switched through my SPod. It works, and fills itself and my tank from dead flat to 100psi in 1 minute. Single ARB used to take 3, plus complicated wiring.
@@DirtLifestyle arb are sht, expensive crap... i have one of those comps, here in aus, called thumper.black.. 300lt. its hooked up to my f250, s/duty, air bags, & 2 fire extinguishers. with a cut off valve, say 120-180.o/c. pumps up my 35,s in 5 mins. i still think the power tank is best. will get one soon. trail recon, had 2 arb,s junk..[ i anodize sht blue, & it sells real fast.]. 62 f100 4x4,352 fe.. 75 cut swb highboy 4w disc,5 sp.. 82 bronc sas.. 02 s/duty, 4.2tdi, brazilian. &, a 73 chall. r/t. oh,,& 2 cats.. you want a laugh,,watch inskip beach 4x4.. might of said before...im 63,,wait till you......????????..............forget things....................
@@DirtLifestyle those CE, air switches, i been thru 5 of them, i switched them from the comp. to the air tank. 1 still blew, lasted 4 mins. the air line hole upgrade is good idea. im still using the airbag lines to the outlet. 6mm o/d. great vid.. i allways think of an 8cfm , 240 v, comp, hooked to an inverter. or,,110, to you..
Nice project. If you added power connectors like the ones on winches, the cables could be used as booster cables and to power the compressor. This way perhaps the compressor could fit in an ammo can. Good job!
Yes! Like the I believe their called “Anderson Plugs” used on Tow Trucks for their booster cables. Tow trucks never have to pop the hood they just plug in the cables… and those plugs I know for a fact can be ordered on Amazon.
I’ve almost done away w/ my booster cables, got one of those small (but powerful) boost packs, ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT THING!! I tested it out of box by totally disconnecting my battery and jumping my truck straight off the pack several times… works great, & have used it several times! Keep my cables as a contingency just incase. But I plan on getting the plugs and wiring to install one on both the front & back of my truck for easy access, and they can also be used for hooking up accessories when needed.
@@MinimaDomum I have the same set-up, but only at the rear. The inflation hose reaches all tyres on the Cruzer, and the 4 tyres on the caravan (but not the spare - I can check that when it's fitted.) I have an air line ✈ fitting on the compressor, but I'm really impressed with that simple idea for a manifold. That's next. 🙃
Great mod, you won't look back, I did this about 1 year ago increase fitting to 1/4 + update hoses and cable. Mine is permanently mounted behind back seats with a 12v boat blower blowing across it to keep it running cool. Then made my own twin tyre inflare deflation kit and it's quicker than a ARB DUEL 😀
FINALLY!!! Someone who knows to thread teflon tape on a fitting backwards!!!!!! That would drive my brother crazy when he worked in the geothermal field.
Great video. I bought one a few months back and thought it needed a few upgrades too. These will definitely help me out. I was also thinking an Anderson connector on the end of the new power cables. Then add an Anderson lead to the truck and one to the short ‘left over’ end of the cables with the clamps. Better/easier connection to your rig and still the option to “clamp on” to someone else’s battery/rig.
That is what I've done with mine. It seats in the back of my Montero permanently connected, but I can easily take it out and use the clamps. 3 Andersen plugs and some wire is what you need (careful with the gauge and long distance)
Between this and the on board air in the disco, I have a plan for my own WK2 air system. Thanks for the ideas, knowledge, and motivation. You inspire all of us.
When I was researching rebuilding my "Titan" branded compressor (physically identical to the larger smittybilt unit), smittybilt owners were recommending SuperLube with PTFE for the cylinder.
Yes PLEASE do a second episode. I bought this compressor and have loved it but I could tell it needed a little help to be solid. I can't wait to follow your video step by step this weekend. Thank you for all the great tutorials and project ideas.
Love it! The fact that you had to simplify the device to make it more reliable says a lot about where we are in this world today. I swear if I had the capital I would start a company that did exactly this. Imagine the possibilities!
It's about cost. That PCB and components cost a few dollars to make. The solenoid he added was probably $10-30, and the pressure switch was probably around the same cost. So adding $20-40 or more in build cost to sell these at only $150 really dents the profits. You see how much work he had to do to it to make it a lot more robust, yet the build quality for the remaining parts can still be questionable.
I will use PM600 "military grease", I've been finding it pretty useful on the truck, as it has good temperature characteristics as a dynamic lubricant, and is also designated as a liquid o-ring.
I love the Compressor mods! I have a '79 JC-7 with an AC compressor conversion and an '07 JK with twin ARBs. On the KJ I connected 3 Ts together. This give me an input and 2 outputs on the driver side and 2 outputs on the passenger side (This is under the back seat). My input hose is long enough to reach my ARBs, and my outlets are long enough to reach both sides of the seat. I also have cut a 25' air hose into 6, 50" pieces (with ends) These will Velcro together and lay nicely under the back seat. It takes 2 pieces to reach the front, and one to reach the rear. I've also put a ball valve and a pressure gauge on my input line so that when I close the valve it show the pressure in the tires. I can inflate/deflate all 4 of my tires at once, or I can connect the pieces and make a 25 foot hose is someone else need air. :) Keep up the good work!
So awesome. Yea dude, MORE FAB!!! This would play well into that video where you made the manifold you tucked into the front bumper that was for suspension on the Disco (if I remember correctly). So yea man, PLEASE more of this! The fact you're taking PC boards and replacing them with simple switches is so badass. Gotta say, I've been disappointed with the "heros" I've chosen over the past 50 years, but you're the best one in the past couple decades. Rock on man. I hope to shake your hand some day.
If you want to add a "homemade tank" you could get whatever length of 4" copper tube and silver solder caps on with any connection size you want. It would help cool the air even more, especially it there is air flow. It isn't much storage but for this application more than enough. Having been in the compressed air industry for nearly 40 years, this is a great product for the price. Excellent mods done with the 1/8" to 1/4" size upgrade being understated in it's value. That will also help reduce heat load.
I was just trying to piece together what I’m needing for this. Plus I have Multiple rigs and can’t build a compressor in each one. So this is awesome for a good compressor set up to move from vehicle to vehicle for different trips. Also go in my construction truck to blow myself off before heading home to work.
Nice upgrades! I would consider adding a computer fan sized accordingly, to help cool that compressor in the ammo can, if you run it inside the can. Love the videos, keep it up, you keep me motivated
Since you're using a manifold that stays under pressure, I'd suggest installing a check valve into the supply line as the big compressors have. This will remove the constant pressure on the pistons at startup.
The startup pressure is less of an issue with this type of motor, and with such a short output pipe the check valve will do very little for startup pressure anyway.
@@xjinit The pipe is very short/small volume and this compressor moves a large volume of air so it'll pressurize very quickly therefore be of very little benefit. The pipe on a home compressor is typically much longer and the compressors are lower volume so it'll take several strokes to pressurize the pipe. Also, this type of motor isn't effected by startup torque like the motors used in home compressors which have a very hard time with startup. One of those without the pressure release often won't be able to get up to speed, it'll try 'till it burns up unless it has an overload breaker to protect it. I don't know of any 12v compressor that has a pressure relief and they all do fine, even those without a check valve.
The compressor has the 2 thick cables coming out (power/ground) and a small red wire. What is this small red wire? I noticed in some of your shots it's been bolted to ground
Napa was continually out of stock until I noticed a different Napa store that had a link to have it shipped to this store. So I did and picked it up a day later. So glad I found out that little option. So when on their site scroll to different stores and see if there’s the option to have it delivered to that store.
Toss a pressure regulator and gauge in front of your air hose quick connect. This allows you to set your target pressure on the regulator, connect the hose to your tire and just let it run until the pressure switch cuts power. No need to babysit it or keep checking pressures as you go.
Please do a part two. Some of your truck videos are exceeding my skills and budget. This is within my abilities (I could even repair the circuit on board but eliminating it is a reasonable plan).
Yes a Part 2 of this mod would be appreciated! I LOVE your Fab vids! Those interest me the MOST… I’m not as skilled as you, especially since I don’t have the shop space or tools that you have so that limits me. But I can do some intermediate level fab work.
Did the same to mine. Also aded tank and remote control. It started to leak back through the head gasket and ruened them. Made new ones from o ring material and added a one way valve to stop it from happening again.
Love the video I'm interested in doing the jumper cable and relay was wondering if you had a diagram on where the wires go to the relay end cables hard to see on video thanks for sharing
Not going to lie I went to napa the day after I watched this video the first time and looked around and found one of these sitting in the corner covered in dust and I bought it now I'm working on modifying mine similar to yours.
Fantastic job. One thing that I would add, is an inline circuit breaker or fuse for the power. It's always wise to have a protective fuse or breaker for electric accessories. Like a 125A or so size. I too would like to know where to buy these compressors! I found out about them just after they became out of stock at Napa.
Waiting on part two. Still learning mainly electrical so itd be nice for an update and maybe a quick walkthrough of how you did the things you did. TH-cam is my school now.
Awesome vid nate! Years ago i modded a smittybilt compressor similar to what you have done here. But i added a small 3" round x 6" long tank and a pressure gauge. I also added dual air chucks so if a buddy needs to fill tires, ive got a spare air line he can use.
Yes on a Part 2! A multi-tire inflator/defaltor is stupid easy and can be done for super cheap. A $5 3-way splitter with a cheap gauge and connectors is all you really need for a 2-tire setup. The hose is the most expensive part of the whole thing. For a 4-tire setup Amazon has a 7 port manifold that is perfect for $7. Minus hose, I'm in my 4-tire inflator/defaltor for less than $30. Word on the street is that Napa discontinued the compressor. It's out there under multiple different brand names, but for 2-4x the cost. Might be able to get some in from a wholesaler and fill the void that Napa is leaving. Have a Dirt Lifestyle branded compressor out there kicking ARB's ass all over the place. 😆
Nate, your videos keep getting better! I have the MORRflate version of this compressor and I'm really impressed with it. Your mods are terrific - you ought to make your own bolt-on manifold setup to sell to everyone who has this compressor so you can retire as a millionaire! Although the ammo can idea is great, the problem is that you need some way to radiate all the heat the compressor creates. Perhaps wiring up a 12v fan to suck air in one side of the ammo can, blow it across the heads, and vent it out the opposite side? That would keep hands from getting burnt and would protect all the fittings and wiring from getting banged around in the truck. I'll be your first customer. :)
If petroleum products degrade seals, we wouldn't put petrolatum, or hydraulic fluid, or various oils, or fuel, on every single rubber packing, seal, gasket and o-ring on a helicopter. In 40 years as a professional mechanic, ranging from heavy equipment to countless aircraft, I can count on one hand the times where a non-petroleum based lubricant is called for by a manufacturer or technical specifications.
@@jethro9341 Depends on what the seal is made out of and since there's no money in using seals that resist oil in a part that has no oil, companies dont do it.
I respectfully disagree. I used to be an industrial air compressor mechanic. I've worked on just about every style of compressor out there and units up to 150HP that were the size of pickup trucks. We used petroleum based lubricants on almost all seals, unless otherwise noted on the seal manufacturer's recommendations, which was practically never.
@@russellv6234 Your standard run of the mill seals, packings, o-rings, are fine with petroleum based products. The extra cost to a manufacturer would be a specialty seal that doesn't jive with petroleum products.
A good amount of water is compressed out of the air even with these small air compressors. My current project is adding water separators to my twin compressors so I am not continuously pumping water into my tires when airing up. It might be something worth researching for you.
I have the single cylinder version of this. Had to replace the relay, reseal all connections, and replace one of the exhaust port orings. Pretty sure the piston ring is teflon so I lubed it with triflow teflon grease. - 120 amp circuit breaker may be a good idea. Will also function as a switch so you don't have sparks when hooking up the battery clamps. - There are tons of these on alibaba/aliexpress. Shipping will be slower but the price is much lower.
I initially thought you were going to plumb your fittings and electrical into the ammo can and leave the compressor permanently in the can. Nicely done on the miss-direct. 🙂
Anderson connector for this would be a good option too. Amazon sells jumper cables with Anderson connectors; so easy to keep mobile if you throw it in the truck or off road trailer.
Really like the upgrades you made to this compressor! I’ve been considering buying a new compressor since I’ve had my little Viar for over 4 years now.
This was really cool. As always you put out content that makes me think about my setup and how I can make things more functional. Can’t wait for part 2!!
I bought one, and a week later bought another because it worked so well. Went back 2 weeks later to get one for my sister and they were out of stock, and also haven't been able to get another.
love that your back. and great video. I have the ARB twin cylinder with all the crap with a tank. really not happy with it. this will be a great upgrade
I would love to see a part 2 on this and I would also like to see a more detailed explanation of the wiring on the dual compressor set up on the discovery. Maybe even a comparison of the 2 systems I have a Viair OBA setup on my truck that is great but I would love to get a faster compressor
Great video Nate. This mods format is great and I think it has great potential for many other areas (how to do coilovers on the cheap, hydraulic brake mods, hydraulic steering mods etc.)
I like the DIY manifold. It also acts as an after cooler in addition to the copper tube. I have a power plant winch with built in compressor which has a tiny aluminum tank with a similar pressure switch. A small aluminum tank as a base (thick rectangular plate) would be nice and it would reduce the cycling of the compressor increasing longevity.
Agreed on the tank. Need to swap out alu distrubtion block with something with abit more volume. But if it's primarily used for tyres it won't stop / start that often
Can you do a video on how you wired that solenoid to the compressor. That is a great idea. I like the idea of getting rid of the board just not completely sure on the wiring.
Thank you for the video. I have one sitting on the bench thinking about extending power to the rear of my Bronco so I did not have to lift the hood each time I wanted to use the compressor. You are correct, the power leads are inadequate for a 90A load.
This is exactly the kinds of modifications I've been looking at applying to my pump. In regards to a safe lubricant, silicone grease (which is what most vacuum grease is) is excellent for these applications. It doesn't affect the rubber gaskets, and can withstand high temperatures well.
Did a similar thing with a smittybuilt compressor and used welding leads from a local supply store and some old battery clamps cause I needed longer leads to reach all tires without moving the compressor. Those coupled with a short 3/8” air hose and pressure switch worked great. My dad now has it and haven’t had any issues.
@@wesman7837 since space is a commodity in my jeep with the family in, the leads take less space than the longer hose and since we don’t trailer it, this worked best for our needs and application.
HI NATE 👋 THANK YOU 🙏 I LOVE WATCHING 👀 YOU DO MODS , ADVENTURES WITH FAMILY & FRIENDS ! WOULD LIKE TO SEE 👀 A PART TWO IF YOU WANT & HAVE THE TIME ! BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 THANK YOU 🙏 GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏
Definitely need a second episode. I was super impressed with my compressor in stock configuration, but now I’m going to have to step up my game.
Yes please part 2. Comparison in STOCK VS UPGRADE.
1.)Time for pumping up 4 tyres.
2.)Temperatures of the compressor during operation both cold and hot day on the field.
3.)Wear and Tear report (3-6-9-12 months).
Your awesome. Your practical and making small adjustment to affordable products and enhancing it to last longer and functional and a lot cheaper to buy and build and probably a lot easier to fix and simple especially with taking out the circuit.
Keep up the great work and keep it coming.
So we I've watched this 3 times now. Once by myself and twice with the boys. You blown their minds removing the computer board and operating it with the switch and solenoid. Part 2 should definitely include a white board of the wiring. Still trying to get the younger one to equivocate a relay to a solenoid.
I did some of those things to mine when I got mine. Went up to 1/4” npt from the 1/8” that was on there originally. Secondly added a pressure regulator. Reason is the compressor can output 150, while normal air tanks are rated for 100. So regulator is set below 100 for tank safety. Ditched the spring clamps for the battery connection in favor of adding 2 gauge ran up to the front, through a 200 amp continuous load relay, which is switched through my SPod. It works, and fills itself and my tank from dead flat to 100psi in 1 minute. Single ARB used to take 3, plus complicated wiring.
I use vaccuum grease for these types of applications, the low vapor pressure keeps it from volatalizing when your pump gets hot and gunking up system
Great suggestion thank you!
@@DirtLifestyle arb are sht, expensive crap... i have one of those comps, here in aus, called thumper.black.. 300lt. its hooked up to my f250, s/duty, air bags, & 2 fire extinguishers. with a cut off valve, say 120-180.o/c. pumps up my 35,s in 5 mins. i still think the power tank is best. will get one soon. trail recon, had 2 arb,s junk..[ i anodize sht blue, & it sells real fast.]. 62 f100 4x4,352 fe.. 75 cut swb highboy 4w disc,5 sp.. 82 bronc sas.. 02 s/duty, 4.2tdi, brazilian. &, a 73 chall. r/t. oh,,& 2 cats.. you want a laugh,,watch inskip beach 4x4.. might of said before...im 63,,wait till you......????????..............forget things....................
@@DirtLifestyle those CE, air switches, i been thru 5 of them, i switched them from the comp. to the air tank. 1 still blew, lasted 4 mins. the air line hole upgrade is good idea. im still using the airbag lines to the outlet. 6mm o/d. great vid.. i allways think of an 8cfm , 240 v, comp, hooked to an inverter. or,,110, to you..
@@DirtLifestyle do a vid on hooking it to 2. 5 gal tanks. oh,forgot,, you only have a toyota,,no room...nice paint job..lol...ausie sarcasm..ish..
Nice project. If you added power connectors like the ones on winches, the cables could be used as booster cables and to power the compressor. This way perhaps the compressor could fit in an ammo can. Good job!
Yes! Like the I believe their called “Anderson Plugs” used on Tow Trucks for their booster cables. Tow trucks never have to pop the hood they just plug in the cables… and those plugs I know for a fact can be ordered on Amazon.
I had the same idea, having the connectors also allows the cables and compressor to be stored separately and makes untangling cables easier.
I’ve almost done away w/ my booster cables, got one of those small (but powerful) boost packs, ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT THING!! I tested it out of box by totally disconnecting my battery and jumping my truck straight off the pack several times… works great, & have used it several times! Keep my cables as a contingency just incase.
But I plan on getting the plugs and wiring to install one on both the front & back of my truck for easy access, and they can also be used for hooking up accessories when needed.
I have them on the front and rear of my rig (anderson connectors) i use them for my winch, jumper cables, and compressor, very handy
@@MinimaDomum I have the same set-up, but only at the rear. The inflation hose reaches all tyres on the Cruzer, and the 4 tyres on the caravan (but not the spare - I can check that when it's fitted.) I have an air line ✈ fitting on the compressor, but I'm really impressed with that simple idea for a manifold. That's next. 🙃
Great video! I appreciate your desire to tweak and improve EVERYTHING, not just stick to one area of focus
Great mod, you won't look back, I did this about 1 year ago increase fitting to 1/4 + update hoses and cable. Mine is permanently mounted behind back seats with a 12v boat blower blowing across it to keep it running cool. Then made my own twin tyre inflare deflation kit and it's quicker than a ARB DUEL 😀
FINALLY!!! Someone who knows to thread teflon tape on a fitting backwards!!!!!! That would drive my brother crazy when he worked in the geothermal field.
Anderson plugs - so the cable could also be used as batt start leads etc
Love these videos! It’s great to see alternative DIY videos. Not everyone has $500+ to spend on an ARB.
Great video. I bought one a few months back and thought it needed a few upgrades too. These will definitely help me out. I was also thinking an Anderson connector on the end of the new power cables. Then add an Anderson lead to the truck and one to the short ‘left over’ end of the cables with the clamps. Better/easier connection to your rig and still the option to “clamp on” to someone else’s battery/rig.
That is what I've done with mine. It seats in the back of my Montero permanently connected, but I can easily take it out and use the clamps. 3 Andersen plugs and some wire is what you need (careful with the gauge and long distance)
Between this and the on board air in the disco, I have a plan for my own WK2 air system. Thanks for the ideas, knowledge, and motivation. You inspire all of us.
When I was researching rebuilding my "Titan" branded compressor (physically identical to the larger smittybilt unit), smittybilt owners were recommending SuperLube with PTFE for the cylinder.
Yes PLEASE do a second episode. I bought this compressor and have loved it but I could tell it needed a little help to be solid. I can't wait to follow your video step by step this weekend. Thank you for all the great tutorials and project ideas.
Love it! The fact that you had to simplify the device to make it more reliable says a lot about where we are in this world today. I swear if I had the capital I would start a company that did exactly this. Imagine the possibilities!
It's about cost. That PCB and components cost a few dollars to make. The solenoid he added was probably $10-30, and the pressure switch was probably around the same cost. So adding $20-40 or more in build cost to sell these at only $150 really dents the profits. You see how much work he had to do to it to make it a lot more robust, yet the build quality for the remaining parts can still be questionable.
I will use PM600 "military grease", I've been finding it pretty useful on the truck, as it has good temperature characteristics as a dynamic lubricant, and is also designated as a liquid o-ring.
I love the Compressor mods! I have a '79 JC-7 with an AC compressor conversion and an '07 JK with twin ARBs. On the KJ I connected 3 Ts together. This give me an input and 2 outputs on the driver side and 2 outputs on the passenger side (This is under the back seat). My input hose is long enough to reach my ARBs, and my outlets are long enough to reach both sides of the seat. I also have cut a 25' air hose into 6, 50" pieces (with ends) These will Velcro together and lay nicely under the back seat. It takes 2 pieces to reach the front, and one to reach the rear. I've also put a ball valve and a pressure gauge on my input line so that when I close the valve it show the pressure in the tires. I can inflate/deflate all 4 of my tires at once, or I can connect the pieces and make a 25 foot hose is someone else need air. :) Keep up the good work!
So awesome. Yea dude, MORE FAB!!!
This would play well into that video where you made the manifold you tucked into the front bumper that was for suspension on the Disco (if I remember correctly).
So yea man, PLEASE more of this! The fact you're taking PC boards and replacing them with simple switches is so badass.
Gotta say, I've been disappointed with the "heros" I've chosen over the past 50 years, but you're the best one in the past couple decades.
Rock on man. I hope to shake your hand some day.
Great job on the upgrades, thanks for the ideas. Let’s see part 2 for sure. Have fun camping. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Glad to see you used blue monster teflon tape! In my personal opinion it’s the best you can get for most applications.
If you want to add a "homemade tank" you could get whatever length of 4" copper tube and silver solder caps on with any connection size you want. It would help cool the air even more, especially it there is air flow. It isn't much storage but for this application more than enough. Having been in the compressed air industry for nearly 40 years, this is a great product for the price. Excellent mods done with the 1/8" to 1/4" size upgrade being understated in it's value. That will also help reduce heat load.
Very helpful. Never realized could do mods like this & you plan it so well. Also great job explaining why you're modding
How did you wire in the relay and pressure switch?
I love it brother ‼️💪
Your the man ‼️
So smart 💪
Please do a part 2 on THIS...
I can't wait to see the final product bro 💪‼️
Definitely a cool video. 100% want to see more videos about your compressor and how you adapt it to a tank.
I was just trying to piece together what I’m needing for this. Plus I have Multiple rigs and can’t build a compressor in each one. So this is awesome for a good compressor set up to move from vehicle to vehicle for different trips. Also go in my construction truck to blow myself off before heading home to work.
Can you post a pick of your wiring in the relay to the pressure switch?
I did something similar with a smaller hf compressor and was planning on doing similar mods on this exact one. Love this type of versatility.
Awesome additions. I put Anderson plugs on my compressors to eliminate the alligator clips
Nice upgrades! I would consider adding a computer fan sized accordingly, to help cool that compressor in the ammo can, if you run it inside the can. Love the videos, keep it up, you keep me motivated
I was thinking the same. But he did say it was for storage.
Glad to see you up and well after round 2 of covid!
Since you're using a manifold that stays under pressure, I'd suggest installing a check valve into the supply line as the big compressors have. This will remove the constant pressure on the pistons at startup.
The startup pressure is less of an issue with this type of motor, and with such a short output pipe the check valve will do very little for startup pressure anyway.
@@DonziGT230 there is usually a bleeder valve to clear the compressed air in the line that accompanies that check valve.
@@xjinit Yes, it's part of the pressure switch used on 'standard' compressors, and it'll do very little for this setup.
@@DonziGT230 can you elaborate?
@@xjinit The pipe is very short/small volume and this compressor moves a large volume of air so it'll pressurize very quickly therefore be of very little benefit. The pipe on a home compressor is typically much longer and the compressors are lower volume so it'll take several strokes to pressurize the pipe. Also, this type of motor isn't effected by startup torque like the motors used in home compressors which have a very hard time with startup. One of those without the pressure release often won't be able to get up to speed, it'll try 'till it burns up unless it has an overload breaker to protect it. I don't know of any 12v compressor that has a pressure relief and they all do fine, even those without a check valve.
Greetings from Reno, Nevada.
Headed to Amazon. I overland in a 2014 E-250.
I’m in Fernley and haven’t been able to find one of these compressors 🙄 Built 2008 JKU 😎
The compressor has the 2 thick cables coming out (power/ground) and a small red wire. What is this small red wire? I noticed in some of your shots it's been bolted to ground
Napa was continually out of stock until I noticed a different Napa store that had a link to have it shipped to this store. So I did and picked it up a day later. So glad I found out that little option. So when on their site scroll to different stores and see if there’s the option to have it delivered to that store.
Part 2 for sure. I want to have a tank on mine so I can use it for air horns... keep up the good work sir.
Custom bed on that Taco is pretty awesome also
That Wrap or paint job on that Taco is dope
Toss a pressure regulator and gauge in front of your air hose quick connect. This allows you to set your target pressure on the regulator, connect the hose to your tire and just let it run until the pressure switch cuts power. No need to babysit it or keep checking pressures as you go.
Hello I can't find one
This was cool, Nate. Would definitely love to see more of this kind of tinkering/tweaking/modding content.
Please do a part two. Some of your truck videos are exceeding my skills and budget. This is within my abilities (I could even repair the circuit on board but eliminating it is a reasonable plan).
Quick question. The small
Red wire of the motor is for the thermal. Where do you connect that too? Thanks
I'd love to see some more done with this. Porting the heads, fitting it into the can, anything.
Great Video! I would've loved to see a before and after test for temperatures and CFM output.
Love the ammo can idea
Yes a Part 2 of this mod would be appreciated! I LOVE your Fab vids! Those interest me the MOST… I’m not as skilled as you, especially since I don’t have the shop space or tools that you have so that limits me. But I can do some intermediate level fab work.
Did the same to mine. Also aded tank and remote control. It started to leak back through the head gasket and ruened them. Made new ones from o ring material and added a one way valve to stop it from happening again.
Excellent video. Part 2, add the tank!
Yes definitely keen to see more mods for these compressors please.
One of if not the best compressor mod videos on the net.
Part two sir
We love this small tinkering stuff
Nice video man. Just the content us regular diy’ers want!
This is awesome, I'd like to have something like that to use for airbags, train horns, and onboard air.
I like that you mix in these non vehicle mods and builds with the rest of the content.
Love the video I'm interested in doing the jumper cable and relay was wondering if you had a diagram on where the wires go to the relay end cables hard to see on video thanks for sharing
Just got myself the exact same one and planning on making upgrades to it, definitely didn't think of those. Thanks! Awesome info.
What a fun little project...hell yeah, I'd like to see a part two, three, and so on.
This build/modification is awesome! I definitely like the idea of improving a product that will extend its life. Definitely a great video Nate!!
Not going to lie I went to napa the day after I watched this video the first time and looked around and found one of these sitting in the corner covered in dust and I bought it now I'm working on modifying mine similar to yours.
Fantastic job. One thing that I would add, is an inline circuit breaker or fuse for the power. It's always wise to have a protective fuse or breaker for electric accessories. Like a 125A or so size.
I too would like to know where to buy these compressors! I found out about them just after they became out of stock at Napa.
Waiting on part two. Still learning mainly electrical so itd be nice for an update and maybe a quick walkthrough of how you did the things you did. TH-cam is my school now.
Loving the disco in the ba k mate and excellent video on the diy
Awesome vid nate! Years ago i modded a smittybilt compressor similar to what you have done here. But i added a small 3" round x 6" long tank and a pressure gauge. I also added dual air chucks so if a buddy needs to fill tires, ive got a spare air line he can use.
Old fire extinguishers work well for tanks...
Yes on a Part 2!
A multi-tire inflator/defaltor is stupid easy and can be done for super cheap. A $5 3-way splitter with a cheap gauge and connectors is all you really need for a 2-tire setup. The hose is the most expensive part of the whole thing. For a 4-tire setup Amazon has a 7 port manifold that is perfect for $7. Minus hose, I'm in my 4-tire inflator/defaltor for less than $30.
Word on the street is that Napa discontinued the compressor. It's out there under multiple different brand names, but for 2-4x the cost. Might be able to get some in from a wholesaler and fill the void that Napa is leaving. Have a Dirt Lifestyle branded compressor out there kicking ARB's ass all over the place. 😆
Hell yeah we wanna see more! Nice work.
Nate, your videos keep getting better! I have the MORRflate version of this compressor and I'm really impressed with it. Your mods are terrific - you ought to make your own bolt-on manifold setup to sell to everyone who has this compressor so you can retire as a millionaire! Although the ammo can idea is great, the problem is that you need some way to radiate all the heat the compressor creates. Perhaps wiring up a 12v fan to suck air in one side of the ammo can, blow it across the heads, and vent it out the opposite side? That would keep hands from getting burnt and would protect all the fittings and wiring from getting banged around in the truck. I'll be your first customer. :)
Never use petroleum-based products- they degrade the seals. Silicone grease is the way to go as others have noted. Mod looks great!
use comprssor lube.
If petroleum products degrade seals, we wouldn't put petrolatum, or hydraulic fluid, or various oils, or fuel, on every single rubber packing, seal, gasket and o-ring on a helicopter. In 40 years as a professional mechanic, ranging from heavy equipment to countless aircraft, I can count on one hand the times where a non-petroleum based lubricant is called for by a manufacturer or technical specifications.
@@jethro9341 Depends on what the seal is made out of and since there's no money in using seals that resist oil in a part that has no oil, companies dont do it.
I respectfully disagree. I used to be an industrial air compressor mechanic. I've worked on just about every style of compressor out there and units up to 150HP that were the size of pickup trucks. We used petroleum based lubricants on almost all seals, unless otherwise noted on the seal manufacturer's recommendations, which was practically never.
@@russellv6234 Your standard run of the mill seals, packings, o-rings, are fine with petroleum based products. The extra cost to a manufacturer would be a specialty seal that doesn't jive with petroleum products.
A good amount of water is compressed out of the air even with these small air compressors. My current project is adding water separators to my twin compressors so I am not continuously pumping water into my tires when airing up. It might be something worth researching for you.
I have the single cylinder version of this. Had to replace the relay, reseal all connections, and replace one of the exhaust port orings. Pretty sure the piston ring is teflon so I lubed it with triflow teflon grease.
- 120 amp circuit breaker may be a good idea. Will also function as a switch so you don't have sparks when hooking up the battery clamps.
- There are tons of these on alibaba/aliexpress. Shipping will be slower but the price is much lower.
I initially thought you were going to plumb your fittings and electrical into the ammo can and leave the compressor permanently in the can. Nicely done on the miss-direct. 🙂
Very interesting, I have no idea what I would use that for, but I would like to see more videos about it.
Anderson connector for this would be a good option too. Amazon sells jumper cables with Anderson connectors; so easy to keep mobile if you throw it in the truck or off road trailer.
Cool video. Heck of an engineer!
Really like the upgrades you made to this compressor! I’ve been considering buying a new compressor since I’ve had my little Viar for over 4 years now.
My Viair has been getting weak too. Been a great little system but doesn't recover like it used too.
This was really cool. As always you put out content that makes me think about my setup and how I can make things more functional. Can’t wait for part 2!!
I bought one, and a week later bought another because it worked so well. Went back 2 weeks later to get one for my sister and they were out of stock, and also haven't been able to get another.
Waiting for part 2 and your review on how the changes worked!
Unreal. Gonna do this to mine here in Aus.
Keep up the good work🤘
If you do the ammo can (which i think is a good idea), you should add some computer fans to help cool the compressor off. Looks great nate!
This is really cool. Well done. I guess you like to use it in multiple vehicles, which is why you aren't hard mounting it in the truck.
love that your back. and great video. I have the ARB twin cylinder with all the crap with a tank. really not happy with it. this will be a great upgrade
You’re ridiculously meticulously good! I’m subscribed now.
I would love to see a part 2 on this and I would also like to see a more detailed explanation of the wiring on the dual compressor set up on the discovery. Maybe even a comparison of the 2 systems I have a Viair OBA setup on my truck that is great but I would love to get a faster compressor
Awesome. Want to see it in the ammo can.
Awesome. Looks like the ghostbusters trap. Looks great
Would you mind showing your electrical schematic for replacing the solid state circuit board?
Great video Nate. This mods format is great and I think it has great potential for many other areas (how to do coilovers on the cheap, hydraulic brake mods, hydraulic steering mods etc.)
I'm literally copying this, absolutely brilliant
Definitely in for part 2. Lots of potential here
I like the DIY manifold. It also acts as an after cooler in addition to the copper tube. I have a power plant winch with built in compressor which has a tiny aluminum tank with a similar pressure switch. A small aluminum tank as a base (thick rectangular plate) would be nice and it would reduce the cycling of the compressor increasing longevity.
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Agreed on the tank. Need to swap out alu distrubtion block with something with abit more volume. But if it's primarily used for tyres it won't stop / start that often
thank you for shaving the great video
lot of great detail in your video
from Australia
Can you do a video on how you wired that solenoid to the compressor. That is a great idea. I like the idea of getting rid of the board just not completely sure on the wiring.
Did you ever figure out how the solenoid was wired?
Thank you for the video. I have one sitting on the bench thinking about extending power to the rear of my Bronco so I did not have to lift the hood each time I wanted to use the compressor. You are correct, the power leads are inadequate for a 90A load.
Great job, appreciate it, keep it up the amazing work.
I would love to see a digital electronic pressure switch that you could set the pressure on to auto shut off at desired pressure
This is exactly the kinds of modifications I've been looking at applying to my pump. In regards to a safe lubricant, silicone grease (which is what most vacuum grease is) is excellent for these applications. It doesn't affect the rubber gaskets, and can withstand high temperatures well.
Superlube from Harbor Freight would be perfect. Extra heat resist, stays where u put it.
Did a similar thing with a smittybuilt compressor and used welding leads from a local supply store and some old battery clamps cause I needed longer leads to reach all tires without moving the compressor. Those coupled with a short 3/8” air hose and pressure switch worked great. My dad now has it and haven’t had any issues.
Why not just use a 25' hose or even 50' hose if you're pulling a trailer? You don't need to move the compressor.
@@wesman7837 since space is a commodity in my jeep with the family in, the leads take less space than the longer hose and since we don’t trailer it, this worked best for our needs and application.
HI NATE 👋
THANK YOU 🙏
I LOVE WATCHING 👀 YOU DO MODS , ADVENTURES WITH FAMILY & FRIENDS ! WOULD LIKE TO SEE 👀 A PART TWO IF YOU WANT & HAVE THE TIME ! BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 THANK YOU 🙏 GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏
You just showed me how to fix everything I dislike about my Viair 450p... Thanks!