So we I've watched this 3 times now. Once by myself and twice with the boys. You blown their minds removing the computer board and operating it with the switch and solenoid. Part 2 should definitely include a white board of the wiring. Still trying to get the younger one to equivocate a relay to a solenoid.
Yes please part 2. Comparison in STOCK VS UPGRADE. 1.)Time for pumping up 4 tyres. 2.)Temperatures of the compressor during operation both cold and hot day on the field. 3.)Wear and Tear report (3-6-9-12 months). Your awesome. Your practical and making small adjustment to affordable products and enhancing it to last longer and functional and a lot cheaper to buy and build and probably a lot easier to fix and simple especially with taking out the circuit. Keep up the great work and keep it coming.
@@DirtLifestyle arb are sht, expensive crap... i have one of those comps, here in aus, called thumper.black.. 300lt. its hooked up to my f250, s/duty, air bags, & 2 fire extinguishers. with a cut off valve, say 120-180.o/c. pumps up my 35,s in 5 mins. i still think the power tank is best. will get one soon. trail recon, had 2 arb,s junk..[ i anodize sht blue, & it sells real fast.]. 62 f100 4x4,352 fe.. 75 cut swb highboy 4w disc,5 sp.. 82 bronc sas.. 02 s/duty, 4.2tdi, brazilian. &, a 73 chall. r/t. oh,,& 2 cats.. you want a laugh,,watch inskip beach 4x4.. might of said before...im 63,,wait till you......????????..............forget things....................
@@DirtLifestyle those CE, air switches, i been thru 5 of them, i switched them from the comp. to the air tank. 1 still blew, lasted 4 mins. the air line hole upgrade is good idea. im still using the airbag lines to the outlet. 6mm o/d. great vid.. i allways think of an 8cfm , 240 v, comp, hooked to an inverter. or,,110, to you..
FINALLY!!! Someone who knows to thread teflon tape on a fitting backwards!!!!!! That would drive my brother crazy when he worked in the geothermal field.
Nice project. If you added power connectors like the ones on winches, the cables could be used as booster cables and to power the compressor. This way perhaps the compressor could fit in an ammo can. Good job!
Yes! Like the I believe their called “Anderson Plugs” used on Tow Trucks for their booster cables. Tow trucks never have to pop the hood they just plug in the cables… and those plugs I know for a fact can be ordered on Amazon.
I’ve almost done away w/ my booster cables, got one of those small (but powerful) boost packs, ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT THING!! I tested it out of box by totally disconnecting my battery and jumping my truck straight off the pack several times… works great, & have used it several times! Keep my cables as a contingency just incase. But I plan on getting the plugs and wiring to install one on both the front & back of my truck for easy access, and they can also be used for hooking up accessories when needed.
@@MinimaDomum I have the same set-up, but only at the rear. The inflation hose reaches all tyres on the Cruzer, and the 4 tyres on the caravan (but not the spare - I can check that when it's fitted.) I have an air line ✈ fitting on the compressor, but I'm really impressed with that simple idea for a manifold. That's next. 🙃
I did some of those things to mine when I got mine. Went up to 1/4” npt from the 1/8” that was on there originally. Secondly added a pressure regulator. Reason is the compressor can output 150, while normal air tanks are rated for 100. So regulator is set below 100 for tank safety. Ditched the spring clamps for the battery connection in favor of adding 2 gauge ran up to the front, through a 200 amp continuous load relay, which is switched through my SPod. It works, and fills itself and my tank from dead flat to 100psi in 1 minute. Single ARB used to take 3, plus complicated wiring.
Since you're using a manifold that stays under pressure, I'd suggest installing a check valve into the supply line as the big compressors have. This will remove the constant pressure on the pistons at startup.
The startup pressure is less of an issue with this type of motor, and with such a short output pipe the check valve will do very little for startup pressure anyway.
@@xjinit The pipe is very short/small volume and this compressor moves a large volume of air so it'll pressurize very quickly therefore be of very little benefit. The pipe on a home compressor is typically much longer and the compressors are lower volume so it'll take several strokes to pressurize the pipe. Also, this type of motor isn't effected by startup torque like the motors used in home compressors which have a very hard time with startup. One of those without the pressure release often won't be able to get up to speed, it'll try 'till it burns up unless it has an overload breaker to protect it. I don't know of any 12v compressor that has a pressure relief and they all do fine, even those without a check valve.
Great mod, you won't look back, I did this about 1 year ago increase fitting to 1/4 + update hoses and cable. Mine is permanently mounted behind back seats with a 12v boat blower blowing across it to keep it running cool. Then made my own twin tyre inflare deflation kit and it's quicker than a ARB DUEL 😀
If petroleum products degrade seals, we wouldn't put petrolatum, or hydraulic fluid, or various oils, or fuel, on every single rubber packing, seal, gasket and o-ring on a helicopter. In 40 years as a professional mechanic, ranging from heavy equipment to countless aircraft, I can count on one hand the times where a non-petroleum based lubricant is called for by a manufacturer or technical specifications.
@@jethro9341 Depends on what the seal is made out of and since there's no money in using seals that resist oil in a part that has no oil, companies dont do it.
I respectfully disagree. I used to be an industrial air compressor mechanic. I've worked on just about every style of compressor out there and units up to 150HP that were the size of pickup trucks. We used petroleum based lubricants on almost all seals, unless otherwise noted on the seal manufacturer's recommendations, which was practically never.
@@russellv6234 Your standard run of the mill seals, packings, o-rings, are fine with petroleum based products. The extra cost to a manufacturer would be a specialty seal that doesn't jive with petroleum products.
Can you do a video on how you wired that solenoid to the compressor. That is a great idea. I like the idea of getting rid of the board just not completely sure on the wiring.
The compressor has the 2 thick cables coming out (power/ground) and a small red wire. What is this small red wire? I noticed in some of your shots it's been bolted to ground
Toss a pressure regulator and gauge in front of your air hose quick connect. This allows you to set your target pressure on the regulator, connect the hose to your tire and just let it run until the pressure switch cuts power. No need to babysit it or keep checking pressures as you go.
Napa was continually out of stock until I noticed a different Napa store that had a link to have it shipped to this store. So I did and picked it up a day later. So glad I found out that little option. So when on their site scroll to different stores and see if there’s the option to have it delivered to that store.
I know it's been a while since you made this video, but I just got one of these, different brand, and was wondering if you can provide a schematic for the electrical mods and a little more info?
Love the video I'm interested in doing the jumper cable and relay was wondering if you had a diagram on where the wires go to the relay end cables hard to see on video thanks for sharing
Love it! The fact that you had to simplify the device to make it more reliable says a lot about where we are in this world today. I swear if I had the capital I would start a company that did exactly this. Imagine the possibilities!
It's about cost. That PCB and components cost a few dollars to make. The solenoid he added was probably $10-30, and the pressure switch was probably around the same cost. So adding $20-40 or more in build cost to sell these at only $150 really dents the profits. You see how much work he had to do to it to make it a lot more robust, yet the build quality for the remaining parts can still be questionable.
I love the Compressor mods! I have a '79 JC-7 with an AC compressor conversion and an '07 JK with twin ARBs. On the KJ I connected 3 Ts together. This give me an input and 2 outputs on the driver side and 2 outputs on the passenger side (This is under the back seat). My input hose is long enough to reach my ARBs, and my outlets are long enough to reach both sides of the seat. I also have cut a 25' air hose into 6, 50" pieces (with ends) These will Velcro together and lay nicely under the back seat. It takes 2 pieces to reach the front, and one to reach the rear. I've also put a ball valve and a pressure gauge on my input line so that when I close the valve it show the pressure in the tires. I can inflate/deflate all 4 of my tires at once, or I can connect the pieces and make a 25 foot hose is someone else need air. :) Keep up the good work!
Yes PLEASE do a second episode. I bought this compressor and have loved it but I could tell it needed a little help to be solid. I can't wait to follow your video step by step this weekend. Thank you for all the great tutorials and project ideas.
If you want to add a "homemade tank" you could get whatever length of 4" copper tube and silver solder caps on with any connection size you want. It would help cool the air even more, especially it there is air flow. It isn't much storage but for this application more than enough. Having been in the compressed air industry for nearly 40 years, this is a great product for the price. Excellent mods done with the 1/8" to 1/4" size upgrade being understated in it's value. That will also help reduce heat load.
Great video. I bought one a few months back and thought it needed a few upgrades too. These will definitely help me out. I was also thinking an Anderson connector on the end of the new power cables. Then add an Anderson lead to the truck and one to the short ‘left over’ end of the cables with the clamps. Better/easier connection to your rig and still the option to “clamp on” to someone else’s battery/rig.
That is what I've done with mine. It seats in the back of my Montero permanently connected, but I can easily take it out and use the clamps. 3 Andersen plugs and some wire is what you need (careful with the gauge and long distance)
When I was researching rebuilding my "Titan" branded compressor (physically identical to the larger smittybilt unit), smittybilt owners were recommending SuperLube with PTFE for the cylinder.
Did the same to mine. Also aded tank and remote control. It started to leak back through the head gasket and ruened them. Made new ones from o ring material and added a one way valve to stop it from happening again.
I will use PM600 "military grease", I've been finding it pretty useful on the truck, as it has good temperature characteristics as a dynamic lubricant, and is also designated as a liquid o-ring.
I was just trying to piece together what I’m needing for this. Plus I have Multiple rigs and can’t build a compressor in each one. So this is awesome for a good compressor set up to move from vehicle to vehicle for different trips. Also go in my construction truck to blow myself off before heading home to work.
Between this and the on board air in the disco, I have a plan for my own WK2 air system. Thanks for the ideas, knowledge, and motivation. You inspire all of us.
A good amount of water is compressed out of the air even with these small air compressors. My current project is adding water separators to my twin compressors so I am not continuously pumping water into my tires when airing up. It might be something worth researching for you.
Please do a part two. Some of your truck videos are exceeding my skills and budget. This is within my abilities (I could even repair the circuit on board but eliminating it is a reasonable plan).
Yes on a Part 2! A multi-tire inflator/defaltor is stupid easy and can be done for super cheap. A $5 3-way splitter with a cheap gauge and connectors is all you really need for a 2-tire setup. The hose is the most expensive part of the whole thing. For a 4-tire setup Amazon has a 7 port manifold that is perfect for $7. Minus hose, I'm in my 4-tire inflator/defaltor for less than $30. Word on the street is that Napa discontinued the compressor. It's out there under multiple different brand names, but for 2-4x the cost. Might be able to get some in from a wholesaler and fill the void that Napa is leaving. Have a Dirt Lifestyle branded compressor out there kicking ARB's ass all over the place. 😆
Anderson connector for this would be a good option too. Amazon sells jumper cables with Anderson connectors; so easy to keep mobile if you throw it in the truck or off road trailer.
So awesome. Yea dude, MORE FAB!!! This would play well into that video where you made the manifold you tucked into the front bumper that was for suspension on the Disco (if I remember correctly). So yea man, PLEASE more of this! The fact you're taking PC boards and replacing them with simple switches is so badass. Gotta say, I've been disappointed with the "heros" I've chosen over the past 50 years, but you're the best one in the past couple decades. Rock on man. I hope to shake your hand some day.
I have a Tireflate which is the same basic compressor. I hesitate to call the bag that came with it even remotely adequate. I eventually found a Craftsman Tool Bag at a garage sale for a couple of dollars that makes a better case for the compressor. However, one of my initial ideas was this very same ammo can idea. I haven't spent the time to do the build yet, but I was stoked to find out that I wasn't the first one to come up with this idea. That pressure switch makes a big difference as to the usability of the compressor.
Fantastic job. One thing that I would add, is an inline circuit breaker or fuse for the power. It's always wise to have a protective fuse or breaker for electric accessories. Like a 125A or so size. I too would like to know where to buy these compressors! I found out about them just after they became out of stock at Napa.
I bought one, and a week later bought another because it worked so well. Went back 2 weeks later to get one for my sister and they were out of stock, and also haven't been able to get another.
With the costs of the upgrades added to the original purchase price what is the cost “ as modified” compared to purchasing a compressor at the actual price? Thanks.
For lube, I'd recommend having some kind of pull through oiler on the inlet filter to draw in a small amount of air tool oil to keep everything lubed up. A second note, if you mount it inside a box of sorts, I'd run a small fan, like a PC fan to pull air through the box and keep it from overheating. I'd tie it in to the pressure switch, so whenever the compressor kicks on, the fan kicks on.
@@caseybacker8809 if you pull air through it'll help to cool the air lines as well. I still think with a few breather holes with no fan, the compressor will get way hotter than if it were outside the can.
Including the compressor price and everything you did to it... what was the overall cost? And after all the mods.... what's the longest you could run it for before overheating?
Did a similar thing with a smittybuilt compressor and used welding leads from a local supply store and some old battery clamps cause I needed longer leads to reach all tires without moving the compressor. Those coupled with a short 3/8” air hose and pressure switch worked great. My dad now has it and haven’t had any issues.
@@wesman7837 since space is a commodity in my jeep with the family in, the leads take less space than the longer hose and since we don’t trailer it, this worked best for our needs and application.
I have the single cylinder version of this. Had to replace the relay, reseal all connections, and replace one of the exhaust port orings. Pretty sure the piston ring is teflon so I lubed it with triflow teflon grease. - 120 amp circuit breaker may be a good idea. Will also function as a switch so you don't have sparks when hooking up the battery clamps. - There are tons of these on alibaba/aliexpress. Shipping will be slower but the price is much lower.
I’d love to see a full on board air install with it and a small tank. I’ve been collecting parts for and waiting for my baby Viair to die to do a permanent install. But kind of settling on the smittybilt do to availability and space constraints.
One of the cool modes you can do. Somthing that I did. Is to put a Bluetooth switch on it. Then you really control it from anywhere. Don't have run between the wheels to the off switch. Also. This is a standard Chinese compressors you don't have to buy the same one. All the compressors that look like him are the same. They sell it in a ton of different colors
I have an EZFLATE M.O.A.B. compressor that looks exactly like the one you have. I also didn’t like that flimsy little hose they had coming out of the header, so I took it apart, drilled the hole out, tapped it and installed a regular air hose coupler. I haven’t tested it yet, but seeing the difference in ID of the hose fitting and the coupler I put in, I’m thinking it’ll flow much better, as you said Nate.
Not going to lie I went to napa the day after I watched this video the first time and looked around and found one of these sitting in the corner covered in dust and I bought it now I'm working on modifying mine similar to yours.
I think this is a brilliant idea. I've never considered any improvements to my compressor (different type), but the issues you fixed an yours are most likely common to all lower budget compact compressors. Could you post a wiring diagram for the switch and relay? Thanks!
You should look up "XT90" Connectors. They are for RC cars. They are rated for 90 amps continuous. I regularly push 150amps though them for 5 to 10sec at a time with no issue. "The XT90s" has a built in resistor that prevents sparks when it's connected.
I called my local Napa because online it said that if it wasn't available, to call your local store and they could order it for you. I'm in NorCal and my store looked it up and said they weren't "allowed" to order it. I guess I'll just have to keep checking back for availability.
It would have been great to see metrics of before and after the rebuild. - 15 to 40psi tire inflation time difference, etc. Great tips for any mass produced air compressor! 1. Wiring. 2. Port upgrades
Waiting on part two. Still learning mainly electrical so itd be nice for an update and maybe a quick walkthrough of how you did the things you did. TH-cam is my school now.
Harbor Freight had a tiny 2gallon 110v compressor that I was going to convert to 12v, the problem is I still use it all the time and they have since discontinued it. A airhorn tank is like 2.3 gallon and would be a nice addition to what you have.... My intentions were to use a aquick connector for the battery side and build a set of jumper cables and battery charger also that runs through that quick connector.
For tapping npt threads in thicker materials grab a tapered reamer. Tapered threads require a tapered hole to not be milling material by hand when tapping.
Great video!! I already added the pressure switch to mine, and now I wanna replace the electrical wires like you did. Could you share a diagram of how you connected everything? Also, shouldn't there be a fuse somewhere?
Always use a silicone based Grease. I work for a fastener company and I repair compressors, gas and electric. A lot of these oil free compressors have leather rings in them that wear out over time and they're pretty much crap. So if you can use lube always use silicone based. Plastics and rubbers are petroleum products so if you use a petroleum product with them they will deteriorate pretty quickly at high temperatures.
Pretty sure I bought the last one in Washington today! Napa I got it from was holding it for a guy in Spokane and he ended up not wanting it. So they called me and said he didn’t want to drive that far to get it and if I could be to their shop by 5 they’d sell it to me! And I made it!
On the battery/power cable connections. Instead of semi-permanently attaching the cable use a Hyclat connector. Then have a duplicate cable so the two can be attached together too retain the ability as a jumper cable. Or you could have the mating Hyclat connector already wired to your vehicle. Just looking at ways to have multiple uses of the cable assembly.
Great project and improvements you've made to that system! Not sure if it will get enough air flow in the ammo can unless you drill some holes in the can?
You wouldn't use the compressor while the ammo can is closed, for one it would suck itself into a vacuum, but you wouldn't want to compromise the can's seal when not in use so you don't have water or mud damage.
Nice upgrades! I would consider adding a computer fan sized accordingly, to help cool that compressor in the ammo can, if you run it inside the can. Love the videos, keep it up, you keep me motivated
I would love to see a part 2 on this and I would also like to see a more detailed explanation of the wiring on the dual compressor set up on the discovery. Maybe even a comparison of the 2 systems I have a Viair OBA setup on my truck that is great but I would love to get a faster compressor
1st: your a fabricator, make your own “ammo can” that will fit properly. 2nd: I would really like to see a detailed mod video for the ARB twin compressor (onboard). Tanks manifolds etc., I know you’ve touched on it briefly before… In my Overland build (I’m still saving/shopping for my dream truck (‘01-‘06 GMC SIERRA 1500 Ext Cab Z71)), I had thoughts of when I fab my bumpers to turn at least one/both of them into an air tank for that purpose.
Ok so i did some digging, the “mystery pcb” is the thermal protect. You adding bigger gauge wire and removing that is certainly going to smoke those motors and you’re running the risk of fire. Always size wires appropriately.
Thanks for showing us the mods for this compressor. Just so you know the equivalent EZ FLATE M.O.A.B compressor is available but price was a lot higher then the NAPA Compressor. The EZ flate was priced at $229.99 plus shipping cost of $42 but if you are in the Military or a Veteran you can get a discount through GOVX that would pay half your shipping cost. It looks like this company received a shipment recently around the end of July so not too sure how many more they have in stock after my purchase yesterday.
I initially thought you were going to plumb your fittings and electrical into the ammo can and leave the compressor permanently in the can. Nicely done on the miss-direct. 🙂
I used “Super Lube” synthetic grease on mine…No it’s not Anal Lube but it’s something we use in the Aviation industry… Unfortunately you won’t be able to use it for painting unless you use a dryer and can clean up the air because the silicone will Fish-Eye paint. I’ll never use it for this, but thought I’d mention that. I modified mine back in October of last year so it’s interesting to see there are others that have gone way above mods on this little beast! Great Video!
Clear silicone brake grease, works for a lot of things. I plan similar things in hard mounting a smitty 5.6, with 35's the smaller one isnt doing it anymore, and thats with a 3 gallon tank.
So we I've watched this 3 times now. Once by myself and twice with the boys. You blown their minds removing the computer board and operating it with the switch and solenoid. Part 2 should definitely include a white board of the wiring. Still trying to get the younger one to equivocate a relay to a solenoid.
Yes please part 2. Comparison in STOCK VS UPGRADE.
1.)Time for pumping up 4 tyres.
2.)Temperatures of the compressor during operation both cold and hot day on the field.
3.)Wear and Tear report (3-6-9-12 months).
Your awesome. Your practical and making small adjustment to affordable products and enhancing it to last longer and functional and a lot cheaper to buy and build and probably a lot easier to fix and simple especially with taking out the circuit.
Keep up the great work and keep it coming.
Definitely need a second episode. I was super impressed with my compressor in stock configuration, but now I’m going to have to step up my game.
I use vaccuum grease for these types of applications, the low vapor pressure keeps it from volatalizing when your pump gets hot and gunking up system
Great suggestion thank you!
@@DirtLifestyle arb are sht, expensive crap... i have one of those comps, here in aus, called thumper.black.. 300lt. its hooked up to my f250, s/duty, air bags, & 2 fire extinguishers. with a cut off valve, say 120-180.o/c. pumps up my 35,s in 5 mins. i still think the power tank is best. will get one soon. trail recon, had 2 arb,s junk..[ i anodize sht blue, & it sells real fast.]. 62 f100 4x4,352 fe.. 75 cut swb highboy 4w disc,5 sp.. 82 bronc sas.. 02 s/duty, 4.2tdi, brazilian. &, a 73 chall. r/t. oh,,& 2 cats.. you want a laugh,,watch inskip beach 4x4.. might of said before...im 63,,wait till you......????????..............forget things....................
@@DirtLifestyle those CE, air switches, i been thru 5 of them, i switched them from the comp. to the air tank. 1 still blew, lasted 4 mins. the air line hole upgrade is good idea. im still using the airbag lines to the outlet. 6mm o/d. great vid.. i allways think of an 8cfm , 240 v, comp, hooked to an inverter. or,,110, to you..
@@DirtLifestyle do a vid on hooking it to 2. 5 gal tanks. oh,forgot,, you only have a toyota,,no room...nice paint job..lol...ausie sarcasm..ish..
Anderson plugs - so the cable could also be used as batt start leads etc
Can you post a pick of your wiring in the relay to the pressure switch?
FINALLY!!! Someone who knows to thread teflon tape on a fitting backwards!!!!!! That would drive my brother crazy when he worked in the geothermal field.
Nice project. If you added power connectors like the ones on winches, the cables could be used as booster cables and to power the compressor. This way perhaps the compressor could fit in an ammo can. Good job!
Yes! Like the I believe their called “Anderson Plugs” used on Tow Trucks for their booster cables. Tow trucks never have to pop the hood they just plug in the cables… and those plugs I know for a fact can be ordered on Amazon.
I had the same idea, having the connectors also allows the cables and compressor to be stored separately and makes untangling cables easier.
I’ve almost done away w/ my booster cables, got one of those small (but powerful) boost packs, ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT THING!! I tested it out of box by totally disconnecting my battery and jumping my truck straight off the pack several times… works great, & have used it several times! Keep my cables as a contingency just incase.
But I plan on getting the plugs and wiring to install one on both the front & back of my truck for easy access, and they can also be used for hooking up accessories when needed.
I have them on the front and rear of my rig (anderson connectors) i use them for my winch, jumper cables, and compressor, very handy
@@MinimaDomum I have the same set-up, but only at the rear. The inflation hose reaches all tyres on the Cruzer, and the 4 tyres on the caravan (but not the spare - I can check that when it's fitted.) I have an air line ✈ fitting on the compressor, but I'm really impressed with that simple idea for a manifold. That's next. 🙃
I did some of those things to mine when I got mine. Went up to 1/4” npt from the 1/8” that was on there originally. Secondly added a pressure regulator. Reason is the compressor can output 150, while normal air tanks are rated for 100. So regulator is set below 100 for tank safety. Ditched the spring clamps for the battery connection in favor of adding 2 gauge ran up to the front, through a 200 amp continuous load relay, which is switched through my SPod. It works, and fills itself and my tank from dead flat to 100psi in 1 minute. Single ARB used to take 3, plus complicated wiring.
Since you're using a manifold that stays under pressure, I'd suggest installing a check valve into the supply line as the big compressors have. This will remove the constant pressure on the pistons at startup.
The startup pressure is less of an issue with this type of motor, and with such a short output pipe the check valve will do very little for startup pressure anyway.
@@DonziGT230 there is usually a bleeder valve to clear the compressed air in the line that accompanies that check valve.
@@xjinit Yes, it's part of the pressure switch used on 'standard' compressors, and it'll do very little for this setup.
@@DonziGT230 can you elaborate?
@@xjinit The pipe is very short/small volume and this compressor moves a large volume of air so it'll pressurize very quickly therefore be of very little benefit. The pipe on a home compressor is typically much longer and the compressors are lower volume so it'll take several strokes to pressurize the pipe. Also, this type of motor isn't effected by startup torque like the motors used in home compressors which have a very hard time with startup. One of those without the pressure release often won't be able to get up to speed, it'll try 'till it burns up unless it has an overload breaker to protect it. I don't know of any 12v compressor that has a pressure relief and they all do fine, even those without a check valve.
Great mod, you won't look back, I did this about 1 year ago increase fitting to 1/4 + update hoses and cable. Mine is permanently mounted behind back seats with a 12v boat blower blowing across it to keep it running cool. Then made my own twin tyre inflare deflation kit and it's quicker than a ARB DUEL 😀
Never use petroleum-based products- they degrade the seals. Silicone grease is the way to go as others have noted. Mod looks great!
use comprssor lube.
If petroleum products degrade seals, we wouldn't put petrolatum, or hydraulic fluid, or various oils, or fuel, on every single rubber packing, seal, gasket and o-ring on a helicopter. In 40 years as a professional mechanic, ranging from heavy equipment to countless aircraft, I can count on one hand the times where a non-petroleum based lubricant is called for by a manufacturer or technical specifications.
@@jethro9341 Depends on what the seal is made out of and since there's no money in using seals that resist oil in a part that has no oil, companies dont do it.
I respectfully disagree. I used to be an industrial air compressor mechanic. I've worked on just about every style of compressor out there and units up to 150HP that were the size of pickup trucks. We used petroleum based lubricants on almost all seals, unless otherwise noted on the seal manufacturer's recommendations, which was practically never.
@@russellv6234 Your standard run of the mill seals, packings, o-rings, are fine with petroleum based products. The extra cost to a manufacturer would be a specialty seal that doesn't jive with petroleum products.
Can you do a video on how you wired that solenoid to the compressor. That is a great idea. I like the idea of getting rid of the board just not completely sure on the wiring.
Did you ever figure out how the solenoid was wired?
The compressor has the 2 thick cables coming out (power/ground) and a small red wire. What is this small red wire? I noticed in some of your shots it's been bolted to ground
Great video! I appreciate your desire to tweak and improve EVERYTHING, not just stick to one area of focus
Toss a pressure regulator and gauge in front of your air hose quick connect. This allows you to set your target pressure on the regulator, connect the hose to your tire and just let it run until the pressure switch cuts power. No need to babysit it or keep checking pressures as you go.
Hello I can't find one
Would you mind showing your electrical schematic for replacing the solid state circuit board?
Napa was continually out of stock until I noticed a different Napa store that had a link to have it shipped to this store. So I did and picked it up a day later. So glad I found out that little option. So when on their site scroll to different stores and see if there’s the option to have it delivered to that store.
Quick question. The small
Red wire of the motor is for the thermal. Where do you connect that too? Thanks
I know it's been a while since you made this video, but I just got one of these, different brand, and was wondering if you can provide a schematic for the electrical mods and a little more info?
Love the video I'm interested in doing the jumper cable and relay was wondering if you had a diagram on where the wires go to the relay end cables hard to see on video thanks for sharing
How did you wire in the relay and pressure switch?
Love it! The fact that you had to simplify the device to make it more reliable says a lot about where we are in this world today. I swear if I had the capital I would start a company that did exactly this. Imagine the possibilities!
It's about cost. That PCB and components cost a few dollars to make. The solenoid he added was probably $10-30, and the pressure switch was probably around the same cost. So adding $20-40 or more in build cost to sell these at only $150 really dents the profits. You see how much work he had to do to it to make it a lot more robust, yet the build quality for the remaining parts can still be questionable.
I love the Compressor mods! I have a '79 JC-7 with an AC compressor conversion and an '07 JK with twin ARBs. On the KJ I connected 3 Ts together. This give me an input and 2 outputs on the driver side and 2 outputs on the passenger side (This is under the back seat). My input hose is long enough to reach my ARBs, and my outlets are long enough to reach both sides of the seat. I also have cut a 25' air hose into 6, 50" pieces (with ends) These will Velcro together and lay nicely under the back seat. It takes 2 pieces to reach the front, and one to reach the rear. I've also put a ball valve and a pressure gauge on my input line so that when I close the valve it show the pressure in the tires. I can inflate/deflate all 4 of my tires at once, or I can connect the pieces and make a 25 foot hose is someone else need air. :) Keep up the good work!
Yes PLEASE do a second episode. I bought this compressor and have loved it but I could tell it needed a little help to be solid. I can't wait to follow your video step by step this weekend. Thank you for all the great tutorials and project ideas.
If you want to add a "homemade tank" you could get whatever length of 4" copper tube and silver solder caps on with any connection size you want. It would help cool the air even more, especially it there is air flow. It isn't much storage but for this application more than enough. Having been in the compressed air industry for nearly 40 years, this is a great product for the price. Excellent mods done with the 1/8" to 1/4" size upgrade being understated in it's value. That will also help reduce heat load.
Great video. I bought one a few months back and thought it needed a few upgrades too. These will definitely help me out. I was also thinking an Anderson connector on the end of the new power cables. Then add an Anderson lead to the truck and one to the short ‘left over’ end of the cables with the clamps. Better/easier connection to your rig and still the option to “clamp on” to someone else’s battery/rig.
That is what I've done with mine. It seats in the back of my Montero permanently connected, but I can easily take it out and use the clamps. 3 Andersen plugs and some wire is what you need (careful with the gauge and long distance)
When I was researching rebuilding my "Titan" branded compressor (physically identical to the larger smittybilt unit), smittybilt owners were recommending SuperLube with PTFE for the cylinder.
Did the same to mine. Also aded tank and remote control. It started to leak back through the head gasket and ruened them. Made new ones from o ring material and added a one way valve to stop it from happening again.
Why didn’t you switch the ground instead of the 12 volt lead through the relay, like the original wiring was designed?
I will use PM600 "military grease", I've been finding it pretty useful on the truck, as it has good temperature characteristics as a dynamic lubricant, and is also designated as a liquid o-ring.
I was just trying to piece together what I’m needing for this. Plus I have Multiple rigs and can’t build a compressor in each one. So this is awesome for a good compressor set up to move from vehicle to vehicle for different trips. Also go in my construction truck to blow myself off before heading home to work.
Between this and the on board air in the disco, I have a plan for my own WK2 air system. Thanks for the ideas, knowledge, and motivation. You inspire all of us.
A good amount of water is compressed out of the air even with these small air compressors. My current project is adding water separators to my twin compressors so I am not continuously pumping water into my tires when airing up. It might be something worth researching for you.
Great job on the upgrades, thanks for the ideas. Let’s see part 2 for sure. Have fun camping. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Love the ammo can idea
Glad to see you used blue monster teflon tape! In my personal opinion it’s the best you can get for most applications.
Love these videos! It’s great to see alternative DIY videos. Not everyone has $500+ to spend on an ARB.
Please do a part two. Some of your truck videos are exceeding my skills and budget. This is within my abilities (I could even repair the circuit on board but eliminating it is a reasonable plan).
That Wrap or paint job on that Taco is dope
Custom bed on that Taco is pretty awesome also
Yes on a Part 2!
A multi-tire inflator/defaltor is stupid easy and can be done for super cheap. A $5 3-way splitter with a cheap gauge and connectors is all you really need for a 2-tire setup. The hose is the most expensive part of the whole thing. For a 4-tire setup Amazon has a 7 port manifold that is perfect for $7. Minus hose, I'm in my 4-tire inflator/defaltor for less than $30.
Word on the street is that Napa discontinued the compressor. It's out there under multiple different brand names, but for 2-4x the cost. Might be able to get some in from a wholesaler and fill the void that Napa is leaving. Have a Dirt Lifestyle branded compressor out there kicking ARB's ass all over the place. 😆
Anderson connector for this would be a good option too. Amazon sells jumper cables with Anderson connectors; so easy to keep mobile if you throw it in the truck or off road trailer.
I would love to see a digital electronic pressure switch that you could set the pressure on to auto shut off at desired pressure
So awesome. Yea dude, MORE FAB!!!
This would play well into that video where you made the manifold you tucked into the front bumper that was for suspension on the Disco (if I remember correctly).
So yea man, PLEASE more of this! The fact you're taking PC boards and replacing them with simple switches is so badass.
Gotta say, I've been disappointed with the "heros" I've chosen over the past 50 years, but you're the best one in the past couple decades.
Rock on man. I hope to shake your hand some day.
Thanks for this amazing video..
Could you please show us the solenoid diagram with the pressure switch??😊
I have a Tireflate which is the same basic compressor. I hesitate to call the bag that came with it even remotely adequate. I eventually found a Craftsman Tool Bag at a garage sale for a couple of dollars that makes a better case for the compressor. However, one of my initial ideas was this very same ammo can idea. I haven't spent the time to do the build yet, but I was stoked to find out that I wasn't the first one to come up with this idea. That pressure switch makes a big difference as to the usability of the compressor.
Awesome additions. I put Anderson plugs on my compressors to eliminate the alligator clips
Fantastic job. One thing that I would add, is an inline circuit breaker or fuse for the power. It's always wise to have a protective fuse or breaker for electric accessories. Like a 125A or so size.
I too would like to know where to buy these compressors! I found out about them just after they became out of stock at Napa.
I bought one, and a week later bought another because it worked so well. Went back 2 weeks later to get one for my sister and they were out of stock, and also haven't been able to get another.
With the costs of the upgrades added to the original purchase price what is the cost “ as modified” compared to purchasing a compressor at the actual price? Thanks.
Part 2 for sure. I want to have a tank on mine so I can use it for air horns... keep up the good work sir.
For lube, I'd recommend having some kind of pull through oiler on the inlet filter to draw in a small amount of air tool oil to keep everything lubed up.
A second note, if you mount it inside a box of sorts, I'd run a small fan, like a PC fan to pull air through the box and keep it from overheating. I'd tie it in to the pressure switch, so whenever the compressor kicks on, the fan kicks on.
Or if you put it in the ammo can just make some ventilation ports/holes/vents etc
@@caseybacker8809 if you pull air through it'll help to cool the air lines as well. I still think with a few breather holes with no fan, the compressor will get way hotter than if it were outside the can.
These compressors aren't meant for high pressure starts so my suggestion is a low pressure switch like 45- 60on off. Just a thought
@@benrossbach6501 put in a check valve so it doesn't have to start under load.
Including the compressor price and everything you did to it... what was the overall cost? And after all the mods.... what's the longest you could run it for before overheating?
Did a similar thing with a smittybuilt compressor and used welding leads from a local supply store and some old battery clamps cause I needed longer leads to reach all tires without moving the compressor. Those coupled with a short 3/8” air hose and pressure switch worked great. My dad now has it and haven’t had any issues.
Why not just use a 25' hose or even 50' hose if you're pulling a trailer? You don't need to move the compressor.
@@wesman7837 since space is a commodity in my jeep with the family in, the leads take less space than the longer hose and since we don’t trailer it, this worked best for our needs and application.
Greetings from Reno, Nevada.
Headed to Amazon. I overland in a 2014 E-250.
I’m in Fernley and haven’t been able to find one of these compressors 🙄 Built 2008 JKU 😎
One of if not the best compressor mod videos on the net.
I have the single cylinder version of this. Had to replace the relay, reseal all connections, and replace one of the exhaust port orings. Pretty sure the piston ring is teflon so I lubed it with triflow teflon grease.
- 120 amp circuit breaker may be a good idea. Will also function as a switch so you don't have sparks when hooking up the battery clamps.
- There are tons of these on alibaba/aliexpress. Shipping will be slower but the price is much lower.
Glad to see you up and well after round 2 of covid!
I’d love to see a full on board air install with it and a small tank. I’ve been collecting parts for and waiting for my baby Viair to die to do a permanent install. But kind of settling on the smittybilt do to availability and space constraints.
One of the cool modes you can do. Somthing that I did. Is to put a Bluetooth switch on it. Then you really control it from anywhere. Don't have run between the wheels to the off switch. Also. This is a standard Chinese compressors you don't have to buy the same one. All the compressors that look like him are the same. They sell it in a ton of different colors
I have an EZFLATE M.O.A.B. compressor that looks exactly like the one you have. I also didn’t like that flimsy little hose they had coming out of the header, so I took it apart, drilled the hole out, tapped it and installed a regular air hose coupler. I haven’t tested it yet, but seeing the difference in ID of the hose fitting and the coupler I put in, I’m thinking it’ll flow much better, as you said Nate.
Not going to lie I went to napa the day after I watched this video the first time and looked around and found one of these sitting in the corner covered in dust and I bought it now I'm working on modifying mine similar to yours.
I think this is a brilliant idea. I've never considered any improvements to my compressor (different type), but the issues you fixed an yours are most likely common to all lower budget compact compressors. Could you post a wiring diagram for the switch and relay? Thanks!
Definitely a cool video. 100% want to see more videos about your compressor and how you adapt it to a tank.
You should look up "XT90" Connectors. They are for RC cars. They are rated for 90 amps continuous. I regularly push 150amps though them for 5 to 10sec at a time with no issue. "The XT90s" has a built in resistor that prevents sparks when it's connected.
Awesome. Want to see it in the ammo can.
I called my local Napa because online it said that if it wasn't available, to call your local store and they could order it for you. I'm in NorCal and my store looked it up and said they weren't "allowed" to order it. I guess I'll just have to keep checking back for availability.
Same problem here 🙄
It would have been great to see metrics of before and after the rebuild.
- 15 to 40psi tire inflation time difference, etc.
Great tips for any mass produced air compressor! 1. Wiring. 2. Port upgrades
Waiting on part two. Still learning mainly electrical so itd be nice for an update and maybe a quick walkthrough of how you did the things you did. TH-cam is my school now.
If you do the ammo can (which i think is a good idea), you should add some computer fans to help cool the compressor off. Looks great nate!
Cool video. Heck of an engineer!
Harbor Freight had a tiny 2gallon 110v compressor that I was going to convert to 12v, the problem is I still use it all the time and they have since discontinued it. A airhorn tank is like 2.3 gallon and would be a nice addition to what you have.... My intentions were to use a aquick connector for the battery side and build a set of jumper cables and battery charger also that runs through that quick connector.
This is awesome, I'd like to have something like that to use for airbags, train horns, and onboard air.
For tapping npt threads in thicker materials grab a tapered reamer. Tapered threads require a tapered hole to not be milling material by hand when tapping.
I like that you mix in these non vehicle mods and builds with the rest of the content.
I'd love to see some more done with this. Porting the heads, fitting it into the can, anything.
Great video!!
I already added the pressure switch to mine, and now I wanna replace the electrical wires like you did.
Could you share a diagram of how you connected everything?
Also, shouldn't there be a fuse somewhere?
part 2 of the Frankenstein pump please
Always use a silicone based Grease. I work for a fastener company and I repair compressors, gas and electric. A lot of these oil free compressors have leather rings in them that wear out over time and they're pretty much crap. So if you can use lube always use silicone based. Plastics and rubbers are petroleum products so if you use a petroleum product with them they will deteriorate pretty quickly at high temperatures.
Pretty sure I bought the last one in Washington today! Napa I got it from was holding it for a guy in Spokane and he ended up not wanting it. So they called me and said he didn’t want to drive that far to get it and if I could be to their shop by 5 they’d sell it to me! And I made it!
On the battery/power cable connections. Instead of semi-permanently attaching the cable use a Hyclat connector. Then have a duplicate cable so the two can be attached together too retain the ability as a jumper cable. Or you could have the mating Hyclat connector already wired to your vehicle. Just looking at ways to have multiple uses of the cable assembly.
Great project and improvements you've made to that system! Not sure if it will get enough air flow in the ammo can unless you drill some holes in the can?
He’s not using the ammo can.
You wouldn't use the compressor while the ammo can is closed, for one it would suck itself into a vacuum, but you wouldn't want to compromise the can's seal when not in use so you don't have water or mud damage.
The pressure switch I have used is the 90 to 150 on my morrflate compressor
Nice upgrades! I would consider adding a computer fan sized accordingly, to help cool that compressor in the ammo can, if you run it inside the can. Love the videos, keep it up, you keep me motivated
I was thinking the same. But he did say it was for storage.
I would love to see a part 2 on this and I would also like to see a more detailed explanation of the wiring on the dual compressor set up on the discovery. Maybe even a comparison of the 2 systems I have a Viair OBA setup on my truck that is great but I would love to get a faster compressor
1st: your a fabricator, make your own “ammo can” that will fit properly.
2nd: I would really like to see a detailed mod video for the ARB twin compressor (onboard). Tanks manifolds etc., I know you’ve touched on it briefly before…
In my Overland build (I’m still saving/shopping for my dream truck (‘01-‘06 GMC SIERRA 1500 Ext Cab Z71)), I had thoughts of when I fab my bumpers to turn at least one/both of them into an air tank for that purpose.
I think the best mod for the ARB Twin is the mod I did, I sold it for over 3X of what I paid for the MaxiTrac that replaced it.
So have you found where to buy them and the best lube to use?
Ok so i did some digging, the “mystery pcb” is the thermal protect. You adding bigger gauge wire and removing that is certainly going to smoke those motors and you’re running the risk of fire. Always size wires appropriately.
inside the metal ammo box no venting will make it get really hot like a little oven. nicee work
Excellent video. Part 2, add the tank!
Thanks for showing us the mods for this compressor. Just so you know the equivalent EZ FLATE M.O.A.B compressor is available but price was a lot higher then the NAPA Compressor. The EZ flate was priced at $229.99 plus shipping cost of $42 but if you are in the Military or a Veteran you can get a discount through GOVX that would pay half your shipping cost. It looks like this company received a shipment recently around the end of July so not too sure how many more they have in stock after my purchase yesterday.
Great Video! I would've loved to see a before and after test for temperatures and CFM output.
I love it brother ‼️💪
Your the man ‼️
So smart 💪
Please do a part 2 on THIS...
I can't wait to see the final product bro 💪‼️
I initially thought you were going to plumb your fittings and electrical into the ammo can and leave the compressor permanently in the can. Nicely done on the miss-direct. 🙂
I used “Super Lube” synthetic grease on mine…No it’s not Anal Lube but it’s something we use in the Aviation industry… Unfortunately you won’t be able to use it for painting unless you use a dryer and can clean up the air because the silicone will Fish-Eye paint. I’ll never use it for this, but thought I’d mention that.
I modified mine back in October of last year so it’s interesting to see there are others that have gone way above mods on this little beast!
Great Video!
Clear silicone brake grease, works for a lot of things. I plan similar things in hard mounting a smitty 5.6, with 35's the smaller one isnt doing it anymore, and thats with a 3 gallon tank.
This is really cool. Well done. I guess you like to use it in multiple vehicles, which is why you aren't hard mounting it in the truck.
Part two sir
We love this small tinkering stuff
Yes definitely keen to see more mods for these compressors please.