Best Off-road Air Compressor MODS.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- Today we are going to modify our Maxi trac Off-road air compressor! These NAPA Maxi trac compressors are fast and cheap but they really need help. With a little bit of elbow grease and some cheap parts from Harbor Freight I think we can make giant improvements. By the way, I have found that a lot of these same ideas could be used on the Smitty Built 2781 so if you have another type of tire filler/on board air compressor, these ideas might be useful!
If you liked this one and you want to see a part two, let me know in the comments 👍. I definitely plan on continuing to modify this compressor but if it's not a topic you are interested in then I won't turn it into a video.
Thanks for watching!
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#overland #offroad #4x4
Definitely need a second episode. I was super impressed with my compressor in stock configuration, but now I’m going to have to step up my game.
I use vaccuum grease for these types of applications, the low vapor pressure keeps it from volatalizing when your pump gets hot and gunking up system
Great suggestion thank you!
@@DirtLifestyle arb are sht, expensive crap... i have one of those comps, here in aus, called thumper.black.. 300lt. its hooked up to my f250, s/duty, air bags, & 2 fire extinguishers. with a cut off valve, say 120-180.o/c. pumps up my 35,s in 5 mins. i still think the power tank is best. will get one soon. trail recon, had 2 arb,s junk..[ i anodize sht blue, & it sells real fast.]. 62 f100 4x4,352 fe.. 75 cut swb highboy 4w disc,5 sp.. 82 bronc sas.. 02 s/duty, 4.2tdi, brazilian. &, a 73 chall. r/t. oh,,& 2 cats.. you want a laugh,,watch inskip beach 4x4.. might of said before...im 63,,wait till you......????????..............forget things....................
@@DirtLifestyle those CE, air switches, i been thru 5 of them, i switched them from the comp. to the air tank. 1 still blew, lasted 4 mins. the air line hole upgrade is good idea. im still using the airbag lines to the outlet. 6mm o/d. great vid.. i allways think of an 8cfm , 240 v, comp, hooked to an inverter. or,,110, to you..
@@DirtLifestyle do a vid on hooking it to 2. 5 gal tanks. oh,forgot,, you only have a toyota,,no room...nice paint job..lol...ausie sarcasm..ish..
So we I've watched this 3 times now. Once by myself and twice with the boys. You blown their minds removing the computer board and operating it with the switch and solenoid. Part 2 should definitely include a white board of the wiring. Still trying to get the younger one to equivocate a relay to a solenoid.
Yes please part 2. Comparison in STOCK VS UPGRADE.
1.)Time for pumping up 4 tyres.
2.)Temperatures of the compressor during operation both cold and hot day on the field.
3.)Wear and Tear report (3-6-9-12 months).
Your awesome. Your practical and making small adjustment to affordable products and enhancing it to last longer and functional and a lot cheaper to buy and build and probably a lot easier to fix and simple especially with taking out the circuit.
Keep up the great work and keep it coming.
Nice project. If you added power connectors like the ones on winches, the cables could be used as booster cables and to power the compressor. This way perhaps the compressor could fit in an ammo can. Good job!
Yes! Like the I believe their called “Anderson Plugs” used on Tow Trucks for their booster cables. Tow trucks never have to pop the hood they just plug in the cables… and those plugs I know for a fact can be ordered on Amazon.
I had the same idea, having the connectors also allows the cables and compressor to be stored separately and makes untangling cables easier.
I’ve almost done away w/ my booster cables, got one of those small (but powerful) boost packs, ABSOLUTELY LOVE THAT THING!! I tested it out of box by totally disconnecting my battery and jumping my truck straight off the pack several times… works great, & have used it several times! Keep my cables as a contingency just incase.
But I plan on getting the plugs and wiring to install one on both the front & back of my truck for easy access, and they can also be used for hooking up accessories when needed.
I have them on the front and rear of my rig (anderson connectors) i use them for my winch, jumper cables, and compressor, very handy
@@MinimaDomum I have the same set-up, but only at the rear. The inflation hose reaches all tyres on the Cruzer, and the 4 tyres on the caravan (but not the spare - I can check that when it's fitted.) I have an air line ✈ fitting on the compressor, but I'm really impressed with that simple idea for a manifold. That's next. 🙃
Since you're using a manifold that stays under pressure, I'd suggest installing a check valve into the supply line as the big compressors have. This will remove the constant pressure on the pistons at startup.
The startup pressure is less of an issue with this type of motor, and with such a short output pipe the check valve will do very little for startup pressure anyway.
@@DonziGT230 there is usually a bleeder valve to clear the compressed air in the line that accompanies that check valve.
@@xjinit Yes, it's part of the pressure switch used on 'standard' compressors, and it'll do very little for this setup.
@@DonziGT230 can you elaborate?
@@xjinit The pipe is very short/small volume and this compressor moves a large volume of air so it'll pressurize very quickly therefore be of very little benefit. The pipe on a home compressor is typically much longer and the compressors are lower volume so it'll take several strokes to pressurize the pipe. Also, this type of motor isn't effected by startup torque like the motors used in home compressors which have a very hard time with startup. One of those without the pressure release often won't be able to get up to speed, it'll try 'till it burns up unless it has an overload breaker to protect it. I don't know of any 12v compressor that has a pressure relief and they all do fine, even those without a check valve.
I did some of those things to mine when I got mine. Went up to 1/4” npt from the 1/8” that was on there originally. Secondly added a pressure regulator. Reason is the compressor can output 150, while normal air tanks are rated for 100. So regulator is set below 100 for tank safety. Ditched the spring clamps for the battery connection in favor of adding 2 gauge ran up to the front, through a 200 amp continuous load relay, which is switched through my SPod. It works, and fills itself and my tank from dead flat to 100psi in 1 minute. Single ARB used to take 3, plus complicated wiring.
Toss a pressure regulator and gauge in front of your air hose quick connect. This allows you to set your target pressure on the regulator, connect the hose to your tire and just let it run until the pressure switch cuts power. No need to babysit it or keep checking pressures as you go.
Hello I can't find one
Great mod, you won't look back, I did this about 1 year ago increase fitting to 1/4 + update hoses and cable. Mine is permanently mounted behind back seats with a 12v boat blower blowing across it to keep it running cool. Then made my own twin tyre inflare deflation kit and it's quicker than a ARB DUEL 😀
When I was researching rebuilding my "Titan" branded compressor (physically identical to the larger smittybilt unit), smittybilt owners were recommending SuperLube with PTFE for the cylinder.
It would have been great to see metrics of before and after the rebuild.
- 15 to 40psi tire inflation time difference, etc.
Great tips for any mass produced air compressor! 1. Wiring. 2. Port upgrades
Anderson plugs - so the cable could also be used as batt start leads etc
Never use petroleum-based products- they degrade the seals. Silicone grease is the way to go as others have noted. Mod looks great!
use comprssor lube.
If petroleum products degrade seals, we wouldn't put petrolatum, or hydraulic fluid, or various oils, or fuel, on every single rubber packing, seal, gasket and o-ring on a helicopter. In 40 years as a professional mechanic, ranging from heavy equipment to countless aircraft, I can count on one hand the times where a non-petroleum based lubricant is called for by a manufacturer or technical specifications.
@@jethro9341 Depends on what the seal is made out of and since there's no money in using seals that resist oil in a part that has no oil, companies dont do it.
I respectfully disagree. I used to be an industrial air compressor mechanic. I've worked on just about every style of compressor out there and units up to 150HP that were the size of pickup trucks. We used petroleum based lubricants on almost all seals, unless otherwise noted on the seal manufacturer's recommendations, which was practically never.
@@russellv6234 Your standard run of the mill seals, packings, o-rings, are fine with petroleum based products. The extra cost to a manufacturer would be a specialty seal that doesn't jive with petroleum products.
Great video! I appreciate your desire to tweak and improve EVERYTHING, not just stick to one area of focus
I will use PM600 "military grease", I've been finding it pretty useful on the truck, as it has good temperature characteristics as a dynamic lubricant, and is also designated as a liquid o-ring.
Great video. I bought one a few months back and thought it needed a few upgrades too. These will definitely help me out. I was also thinking an Anderson connector on the end of the new power cables. Then add an Anderson lead to the truck and one to the short ‘left over’ end of the cables with the clamps. Better/easier connection to your rig and still the option to “clamp on” to someone else’s battery/rig.
That is what I've done with mine. It seats in the back of my Montero permanently connected, but I can easily take it out and use the clamps. 3 Andersen plugs and some wire is what you need (careful with the gauge and long distance)
I was just trying to piece together what I’m needing for this. Plus I have Multiple rigs and can’t build a compressor in each one. So this is awesome for a good compressor set up to move from vehicle to vehicle for different trips. Also go in my construction truck to blow myself off before heading home to work.
A good amount of water is compressed out of the air even with these small air compressors. My current project is adding water separators to my twin compressors so I am not continuously pumping water into my tires when airing up. It might be something worth researching for you.
Would you mind showing your electrical schematic for replacing the solid state circuit board?
FINALLY!!! Someone who knows to thread teflon tape on a fitting backwards!!!!!! That would drive my brother crazy when he worked in the geothermal field.
Love it! The fact that you had to simplify the device to make it more reliable says a lot about where we are in this world today. I swear if I had the capital I would start a company that did exactly this. Imagine the possibilities!
It's about cost. That PCB and components cost a few dollars to make. The solenoid he added was probably $10-30, and the pressure switch was probably around the same cost. So adding $20-40 or more in build cost to sell these at only $150 really dents the profits. You see how much work he had to do to it to make it a lot more robust, yet the build quality for the remaining parts can still be questionable.
If you want to add a "homemade tank" you could get whatever length of 4" copper tube and silver solder caps on with any connection size you want. It would help cool the air even more, especially it there is air flow. It isn't much storage but for this application more than enough. Having been in the compressed air industry for nearly 40 years, this is a great product for the price. Excellent mods done with the 1/8" to 1/4" size upgrade being understated in it's value. That will also help reduce heat load.
Love these videos! It’s great to see alternative DIY videos. Not everyone has $500+ to spend on an ARB.
Napa was continually out of stock until I noticed a different Napa store that had a link to have it shipped to this store. So I did and picked it up a day later. So glad I found out that little option. So when on their site scroll to different stores and see if there’s the option to have it delivered to that store.
1st: your a fabricator, make your own “ammo can” that will fit properly.
2nd: I would really like to see a detailed mod video for the ARB twin compressor (onboard). Tanks manifolds etc., I know you’ve touched on it briefly before…
In my Overland build (I’m still saving/shopping for my dream truck (‘01-‘06 GMC SIERRA 1500 Ext Cab Z71)), I had thoughts of when I fab my bumpers to turn at least one/both of them into an air tank for that purpose.
I think the best mod for the ARB Twin is the mod I did, I sold it for over 3X of what I paid for the MaxiTrac that replaced it.
I’d love to see a full on board air install with it and a small tank. I’ve been collecting parts for and waiting for my baby Viair to die to do a permanent install. But kind of settling on the smittybilt do to availability and space constraints.
Fantastic job. One thing that I would add, is an inline circuit breaker or fuse for the power. It's always wise to have a protective fuse or breaker for electric accessories. Like a 125A or so size.
I too would like to know where to buy these compressors! I found out about them just after they became out of stock at Napa.
Between this and the on board air in the disco, I have a plan for my own WK2 air system. Thanks for the ideas, knowledge, and motivation. You inspire all of us.
I have the single cylinder version of this. Had to replace the relay, reseal all connections, and replace one of the exhaust port orings. Pretty sure the piston ring is teflon so I lubed it with triflow teflon grease.
- 120 amp circuit breaker may be a good idea. Will also function as a switch so you don't have sparks when hooking up the battery clamps.
- There are tons of these on alibaba/aliexpress. Shipping will be slower but the price is much lower.
This is exactly the kinds of modifications I've been looking at applying to my pump. In regards to a safe lubricant, silicone grease (which is what most vacuum grease is) is excellent for these applications. It doesn't affect the rubber gaskets, and can withstand high temperatures well.
Superlube from Harbor Freight would be perfect. Extra heat resist, stays where u put it.
After you have tested & refined it, I would like you to build one for me, to be used as a permanently mounted one, in the cavity of the rear quater panel in my 80 Series Landcruiser. But I would then need it shipped to Australia 😁
I love the Compressor mods! I have a '79 JC-7 with an AC compressor conversion and an '07 JK with twin ARBs. On the KJ I connected 3 Ts together. This give me an input and 2 outputs on the driver side and 2 outputs on the passenger side (This is under the back seat). My input hose is long enough to reach my ARBs, and my outlets are long enough to reach both sides of the seat. I also have cut a 25' air hose into 6, 50" pieces (with ends) These will Velcro together and lay nicely under the back seat. It takes 2 pieces to reach the front, and one to reach the rear. I've also put a ball valve and a pressure gauge on my input line so that when I close the valve it show the pressure in the tires. I can inflate/deflate all 4 of my tires at once, or I can connect the pieces and make a 25 foot hose is someone else need air. :) Keep up the good work!
Anderson connector for this would be a good option too. Amazon sells jumper cables with Anderson connectors; so easy to keep mobile if you throw it in the truck or off road trailer.
I think this is a brilliant idea. I've never considered any improvements to my compressor (different type), but the issues you fixed an yours are most likely common to all lower budget compact compressors. Could you post a wiring diagram for the switch and relay? Thanks!
Did the same to mine. Also aded tank and remote control. It started to leak back through the head gasket and ruened them. Made new ones from o ring material and added a one way valve to stop it from happening again.
Including the compressor price and everything you did to it... what was the overall cost? And after all the mods.... what's the longest you could run it for before overheating?
Yes PLEASE do a second episode. I bought this compressor and have loved it but I could tell it needed a little help to be solid. I can't wait to follow your video step by step this weekend. Thank you for all the great tutorials and project ideas.
Glad to see you used blue monster teflon tape! In my personal opinion it’s the best you can get for most applications.
I like the DIY manifold. It also acts as an after cooler in addition to the copper tube. I have a power plant winch with built in compressor which has a tiny aluminum tank with a similar pressure switch. A small aluminum tank as a base (thick rectangular plate) would be nice and it would reduce the cycling of the compressor increasing longevity.
L
Agreed on the tank. Need to swap out alu distrubtion block with something with abit more volume. But if it's primarily used for tyres it won't stop / start that often
I would love to see a digital electronic pressure switch that you could set the pressure on to auto shut off at desired pressure
Great project and improvements you've made to that system! Not sure if it will get enough air flow in the ammo can unless you drill some holes in the can?
He’s not using the ammo can.
You wouldn't use the compressor while the ammo can is closed, for one it would suck itself into a vacuum, but you wouldn't want to compromise the can's seal when not in use so you don't have water or mud damage.
For lube, I'd recommend having some kind of pull through oiler on the inlet filter to draw in a small amount of air tool oil to keep everything lubed up.
A second note, if you mount it inside a box of sorts, I'd run a small fan, like a PC fan to pull air through the box and keep it from overheating. I'd tie it in to the pressure switch, so whenever the compressor kicks on, the fan kicks on.
Or if you put it in the ammo can just make some ventilation ports/holes/vents etc
@@caseybacker8809 if you pull air through it'll help to cool the air lines as well. I still think with a few breather holes with no fan, the compressor will get way hotter than if it were outside the can.
These compressors aren't meant for high pressure starts so my suggestion is a low pressure switch like 45- 60on off. Just a thought
@@benrossbach6501 put in a check valve so it doesn't have to start under load.
Did you think about using an Andersen connector instead of keeping that long cable attached at all times? Seems like being able to disconnect that cable would help with storage
Also, sorry if I missed it but do you have a fuse somewhere in there? It would be a bummer to have a big uncontrolled electrical fire if something in the motor decided to let go
Love the video! I’m really excited to see part 2!
Great job on the upgrades, thanks for the ideas. Let’s see part 2 for sure. Have fun camping. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
I'd love to see a second episode, for sure! Once you make your ultimate, decked out version of this compressor, and if you can find more of these, might be an awesome thing for a giveaway? 🤔
Yes on a Part 2!
A multi-tire inflator/defaltor is stupid easy and can be done for super cheap. A $5 3-way splitter with a cheap gauge and connectors is all you really need for a 2-tire setup. The hose is the most expensive part of the whole thing. For a 4-tire setup Amazon has a 7 port manifold that is perfect for $7. Minus hose, I'm in my 4-tire inflator/defaltor for less than $30.
Word on the street is that Napa discontinued the compressor. It's out there under multiple different brand names, but for 2-4x the cost. Might be able to get some in from a wholesaler and fill the void that Napa is leaving. Have a Dirt Lifestyle branded compressor out there kicking ARB's ass all over the place. 😆
If you do the ammo can (which i think is a good idea), you should add some computer fans to help cool the compressor off. Looks great nate!
I did something similar with a smaller hf compressor and was planning on doing similar mods on this exact one. Love this type of versatility.
Please do a part two. Some of your truck videos are exceeding my skills and budget. This is within my abilities (I could even repair the circuit on board but eliminating it is a reasonable plan).
Great Video! I would've loved to see a before and after test for temperatures and CFM output.
Nice upgrades! I would consider adding a computer fan sized accordingly, to help cool that compressor in the ammo can, if you run it inside the can. Love the videos, keep it up, you keep me motivated
I was thinking the same. But he did say it was for storage.
I would love to see a part 2 on this and I would also like to see a more detailed explanation of the wiring on the dual compressor set up on the discovery. Maybe even a comparison of the 2 systems I have a Viair OBA setup on my truck that is great but I would love to get a faster compressor
This was genius! Makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't make it this way originally. What about doing this on the Smittybilt compressor?
I'd love to see some more done with this. Porting the heads, fitting it into the can, anything.
So awesome. Yea dude, MORE FAB!!!
This would play well into that video where you made the manifold you tucked into the front bumper that was for suspension on the Disco (if I remember correctly).
So yea man, PLEASE more of this! The fact you're taking PC boards and replacing them with simple switches is so badass.
Gotta say, I've been disappointed with the "heros" I've chosen over the past 50 years, but you're the best one in the past couple decades.
Rock on man. I hope to shake your hand some day.
Very helpful. Never realized could do mods like this & you plan it so well. Also great job explaining why you're modding
I love it brother ‼️💪
Your the man ‼️
So smart 💪
Please do a part 2 on THIS...
I can't wait to see the final product bro 💪‼️
part 2 of the Frankenstein pump please
Awesome additions. I put Anderson plugs on my compressors to eliminate the alligator clips
I initially thought you were going to plumb your fittings and electrical into the ammo can and leave the compressor permanently in the can. Nicely done on the miss-direct. 🙂
Greetings from Reno, Nevada.
Headed to Amazon. I overland in a 2014 E-250.
I’m in Fernley and haven’t been able to find one of these compressors 🙄 Built 2008 JKU 😎
Harbor Freight had a tiny 2gallon 110v compressor that I was going to convert to 12v, the problem is I still use it all the time and they have since discontinued it. A airhorn tank is like 2.3 gallon and would be a nice addition to what you have.... My intentions were to use a aquick connector for the battery side and build a set of jumper cables and battery charger also that runs through that quick connector.
Dude I do like this but what about doing a video on turning a sanden AC compressor into a air pump. I’m gonna upgrade my AC on my square body suburban which will move my AC compressor to the left side of the engine. Well I’m thinking I’ll go to the junk yard get a good sanden and mount it where my old axial used to be. Convert it to a compressor for a tank and have a simple switch to activate it when I need it
That Wrap or paint job on that Taco is dope
I bought one, and a week later bought another because it worked so well. Went back 2 weeks later to get one for my sister and they were out of stock, and also haven't been able to get another.
On the battery/power cable connections. Instead of semi-permanently attaching the cable use a Hyclat connector. Then have a duplicate cable so the two can be attached together too retain the ability as a jumper cable. Or you could have the mating Hyclat connector already wired to your vehicle. Just looking at ways to have multiple uses of the cable assembly.
Can you do a video on how you wired that solenoid to the compressor. That is a great idea. I like the idea of getting rid of the board just not completely sure on the wiring.
Did you ever figure out how the solenoid was wired?
Not going to lie I went to napa the day after I watched this video the first time and looked around and found one of these sitting in the corner covered in dust and I bought it now I'm working on modifying mine similar to yours.
Custom bed on that Taco is pretty awesome also
Thank you for the video. I have one sitting on the bench thinking about extending power to the rear of my Bronco so I did not have to lift the hood each time I wanted to use the compressor. You are correct, the power leads are inadequate for a 90A load.
Waiting on part two. Still learning mainly electrical so itd be nice for an update and maybe a quick walkthrough of how you did the things you did. TH-cam is my school now.
For tapping npt threads in thicker materials grab a tapered reamer. Tapered threads require a tapered hole to not be milling material by hand when tapping.
I have a Tireflate which is the same basic compressor. I hesitate to call the bag that came with it even remotely adequate. I eventually found a Craftsman Tool Bag at a garage sale for a couple of dollars that makes a better case for the compressor. However, one of my initial ideas was this very same ammo can idea. I haven't spent the time to do the build yet, but I was stoked to find out that I wasn't the first one to come up with this idea. That pressure switch makes a big difference as to the usability of the compressor.
Definitely a cool video. 100% want to see more videos about your compressor and how you adapt it to a tank.
I have an EZFLATE M.O.A.B. compressor that looks exactly like the one you have. I also didn’t like that flimsy little hose they had coming out of the header, so I took it apart, drilled the hole out, tapped it and installed a regular air hose coupler. I haven’t tested it yet, but seeing the difference in ID of the hose fitting and the coupler I put in, I’m thinking it’ll flow much better, as you said Nate.
Nate, your videos keep getting better! I have the MORRflate version of this compressor and I'm really impressed with it. Your mods are terrific - you ought to make your own bolt-on manifold setup to sell to everyone who has this compressor so you can retire as a millionaire! Although the ammo can idea is great, the problem is that you need some way to radiate all the heat the compressor creates. Perhaps wiring up a 12v fan to suck air in one side of the ammo can, blow it across the heads, and vent it out the opposite side? That would keep hands from getting burnt and would protect all the fittings and wiring from getting banged around in the truck. I'll be your first customer. :)
THANK YOU! I'll probably build the same thing! But I have a problem with moisture freezing in the lines when airing up in the winter.
Very interesting, I have no idea what I would use that for, but I would like to see more videos about it.
Love the video I'm interested in doing the jumper cable and relay was wondering if you had a diagram on where the wires go to the relay end cables hard to see on video thanks for sharing
Thanks for showing us the mods for this compressor. Just so you know the equivalent EZ FLATE M.O.A.B compressor is available but price was a lot higher then the NAPA Compressor. The EZ flate was priced at $229.99 plus shipping cost of $42 but if you are in the Military or a Veteran you can get a discount through GOVX that would pay half your shipping cost. It looks like this company received a shipment recently around the end of July so not too sure how many more they have in stock after my purchase yesterday.
This was cool, Nate. Would definitely love to see more of this kind of tinkering/tweaking/modding content.
Did a similar thing with a smittybuilt compressor and used welding leads from a local supply store and some old battery clamps cause I needed longer leads to reach all tires without moving the compressor. Those coupled with a short 3/8” air hose and pressure switch worked great. My dad now has it and haven’t had any issues.
Why not just use a 25' hose or even 50' hose if you're pulling a trailer? You don't need to move the compressor.
@@wesman7837 since space is a commodity in my jeep with the family in, the leads take less space than the longer hose and since we don’t trailer it, this worked best for our needs and application.
This is awesome, I'd like to have something like that to use for airbags, train horns, and onboard air.
I could see it getting really hot inside the ammo can. You could cut a small hole in one side and use a 12v computer fan to take care of that, and another hole for intake/exhaust. Put a fan grille on it for the same size fan so nobody loses a finger.
Awesome. Want to see it in the ammo can.
Just got myself the exact same one and planning on making upgrades to it, definitely didn't think of those. Thanks! Awesome info.
I've been looking for one myself! I knew I should have grabbed one when I first seen it but I waited for reviews first and now impossible to find one.
The same compressor (but unbranded) can be found on Alibaba. It's likely the ae manufacturing facility as the napa one with less QA in the process.
put it in the ammo can w/ the switch & gauge mounted to the outside of the can & mount the ammo can onto a 2-3 gal tank then run quick ports to all 4 corners of your rig & maybe the bumper.
I'm impressed that these claim to flow more than the ARB Twin. I might have to pick one up and fiddle with it. I'd be interested to see what other modifications might help improve it. I wonder if opening the case and also having larger gauge going directly to the motor would help too? Maybe trying to port the areas where the reed valves are for more flow?
If I'm not mistaken, ARB states flow @30psi and those cheap compressors states @0psi
Once they get some pressure, flow decrease significantly.
Maxitrac is advertised as 300lpm(no advertised pressure, I would assume 0 though), arb twin is 174.7lpm(@0psi). Sounds like BS numbers from maxitrac, where as I feel ARB does some level of testing. There’s no way the maxitrac is ‘twice the speed’ of an ARB twin.
Need pt 2. I've been looking for a good air compressor setup for building an on board air bag setup. I've also always used white lithium on air compressor seals.
Those appear to be teflon rings, indicating this is an oil-less compressor and typical for smaller models - the addition of a lubricant can actually reduce performance in this type of compressor, as well as attract/collect debris that accelerates wear. The lubricant you found on one side makes this a mystery worth investigating, if they are teflon then you can expect improved performance from a thorough cleaning
Awesome vid nate! Years ago i modded a smittybilt compressor similar to what you have done here. But i added a small 3" round x 6" long tank and a pressure gauge. I also added dual air chucks so if a buddy needs to fill tires, ive got a spare air line he can use.
Old fire extinguishers work well for tanks...
I gotta do this to mine! I was wanting to install a pressure switch and my hose failed on my second use.
You should make those manifolds for us that have these.
This is really cool. Well done. I guess you like to use it in multiple vehicles, which is why you aren't hard mounting it in the truck.
A comparison between the ARB Twin setup and this would be great info. Like time to fill all 4 35s from 15 psi or something. A comparison to a stock unit as well would be awesome too.
Find a carpenter with a burnt up hotdog compressor. You can reuse the tanks and they fit inside most truck frame rails out of sight.
Clear silicone brake grease, works for a lot of things. I plan similar things in hard mounting a smitty 5.6, with 35's the smaller one isnt doing it anymore, and thats with a 3 gallon tank.
I like it, great job. I think I would use a Anderson connector for the jumper cables to compressor. I think I would use Synthetic grease I use on Poly bushings.
Outstanding! I mentioned on IG that I have been thinking of making many of the same mods to my Napa compressor. Picked it up early 2021 and have been happy but knew it was capable of more. I was planning on the 200amp relay and ditching the electronics because I want to be able to mount this are the rear of my 4Runner along with a tank since there's no long a spare tire back there. I knew the electronics were not going to withstand exposure.
I would have recommended not using the ammo can, at least not for mounting. These things get hot and need the air ventilation to keep cool. It's fine for transport and storage, but not for use, at least not without modding the ammo can (vents, maybe even a couple 120mm fans.... hmmm....)
Thanks for the video, pretty much confirmed that what I was thinking about will be suitable. Plus you gave me a couple other ideas (hard line, etc)