I strongly recommend you put a inline fuse or breaker on that connection coming off your bus. high amp breakers are cheap, resettable, and above all the safety factor! love the videos keep up the awesome builds.
We thought of nost if the improvements, hard mounting the comp on a cross bed tool box with jumper cables running to aux battery. Started with a 80 amp breaker and was tripping. Upped to a 100 fuse/breaker and no more issues.
I don't claim to be an expert, just basing this on past experience. I've had numerous job site compressors with a similar 90 deg short copper outlet from the "Head" like you have. All of them failed at one point from vibration cracking the pipe at the fitting. If possible adding a single coil in the line adds enough flex to make the connection less rigid and less prone to breakage. Alternatively having pre-cut extra pieces in your kit would allow for a quick change on the trail if needed.
Great video as always mate. I’d love to see this compressor tested side by side with a standard one for speed on inflating a set of tyres from x pressure to y pressure to see how much difference its all made.
My local corner hardware store here in SW Washington had one on the shelf for $129.99. I just picked it up, since I already have one I’d be happy to pass it on to you for what I paid.
This is exactly the kind of thing I think we all want to see. Clever little mods that get the most out of some of our everyday gear. Brilliant episodes. Can’t wait for part 3
This series is awesome! Those Anderson fittings would be awesome for a bunch of stuff. 1. Jumper cables that plug in on 1 side so you don’t have to open the hood. 2. Maybe somehow you can plug solar panels into it and charge the trucks battery when camping? 3. A spotlight could plug into it that can be used when working at night. 4. Potential welder plug (with modification)
Meanwhile most of these stuff we already use Anderson plugs for in Australia and have done for at least 10 years. There are things that you need to take into consideration. For jumper cables, the ones he used are inadequate. His 4 gauge cable is treated for about 500a he used either sb120 or sb175 Anderson which have 240a and 280a rated continuous draw respectively. So his jumper is now derated to that. So for a jumper cable you would need the sb350. But it would need a big isolator like the ones used for winches, or a big fuse, in the case of an isolator you presumably would need to open the hood to activate it. You don't want an always live electrical wire of that thickness under your hood. For solar panels it is always done through a DC-DC or an mppt but the SB50 and much lighter cable is all you need. I have several Anderson in my ute in several places for these type of scenarios. For the welder you would need again an sb350 and they are huge.
I commented forever ago about how your welding shots were better then most welding channels I just wanted to tell you that there is nothing else like your channel the hands on projects the diversity your production value is right beside of 4wd 247 and you don't even have a camera crew you don't get the perfect offroad footage with drones and a camera car but you still get awesome offroad shots I love the projects no matter how little or big the coustomization on your channel is unmatched love the content love the personality really love the channel with your advice I feel like I could tackle some awesome fab projects the knowledge that you've shared with me and many others will be appreciated for decades to come
Love these video's as I have also done this to my compressors as well. Except I went a little over board and joined 2 of these compressor's together. Ported the intake and exhaust, changed all the outlets to nothing smaller then 1/4" , swapped out the electronics for a 200amp Solenoid, obviously upgraded all the wiring and runs off a 175amp Anderson plug. All tucked away in a custom box that's running 4x 12v computer fans above the heads. One thing to note is you will find the limits of the valve in the tire at the pressure these run. And any mods will almost not Change the time it takes at all as the valve is your biggest restriction, unless you work a way out to up the pressure. But when pumping all 4 up at the same time that's where the improvement can be seen. I compared the difference by filling my workshop compressor tank from 0-40psi and timed it. Single unmodified compressor did it in 54sec, ported/modified single compressor did it in 46sec, 2 modified compressors joined did it in 23sec! I'm keen to see how far you go with this compressor. I like your idea of adding extra valves in the head!
I know I'm late to the party but I had the same idea lol was thinking I can buy 2 of these and design the block to conjoin them into an H4 configuration, route the lines through a finned reservoir to help cool the air and not bother with fans since I'll be aired up before it gets any serious heat lol
A lot of auto AC compressors (like a York) use reed valves, I'm sure the local wrecking yards are full of them. I ported the head on my old Masterflow single cylinder version of that thing, and it made a noticeable difference. One thing to keep an eye on is the connecting rod bearing, I had one go bad (after several years) and it knocked like crazy, but they are easy to replace with a better quality one, they're just peened in place, at least on mine. I used to pick them up for $25 before the offroad community discovered them! Love your channel.
As far as the reeds go, I've seen the Aussies use their feeler gauges cut down to fix or upgrade. Also, to crimp bigger gauge wires, I cut the appropriate sized nut in half and squeeze everything together in a vice.
This is awesome! I'll hold off on modding mine until yours gets some mileage on it, but these mods look fantastic! Thank you for not just doing all of this off camera.
always be sure to fuse leads coming off the battery! OEM always have fusible links, or fuses, aftermarket is no different. triple insulating isn't a good replacement for proper fusing practices. can even do a circuit breaker for ease of resetting if fuse replacement/cost/time is a concern
a simple solution could be a large circuit breaker in between the battery and bus bar that he is using. that way he can easily disconnect power to the aftermarket and leave all the toyota directly connected to the battery
heaps of OEM battery wires are missing fuses, especially on older rigs, but I agree, a row of nice fat ANL fuses built into the buss bar is what I use on stuff like this
You can wire out everything using Andersons including ditching all "cigarette" plugs and going with Powerwerx Powerpole at 45amps over 10gauge wiring. They have everything for expansion and connection. Everything from solar to lighting to fridge etc. all on Powerpoles. I use the large Andersons with 1/0 welders copper for distribution from front to rear to the auxillary, from auxillary batt (LiFEPO) and a 300amp marine switch to tie it all together. I WILL be getting that compressor with the mods you've incorporated to back feed my on board Viair system for better faster flow in air ups. GREAT videos man, keep it up!
Hey, great idea on increasing intake air BUT BAD BAD BAD for your compressor. The location of air intake on sides is specifically designed to draw air over cylinder head fins and cause a cooling affect. Think of it as forcing air flow across cylinder on hardly motor as you drive. If you sit on red light for a long time it overheats because there is no air flow. So since you did a hole on top you MUST add a few cheap 12v computer fans or something to force air across your cylinder fins to draw that heat away because radiating heat (which is only way to dissipate heat now since your mod) is not enough especially if in that ammo box you will burn up your cylinder seals or warp the metal. Good luck. Great ideas by the way.
CFM GAINS: Search for "rotameter PRM 400 LPM" to help quantify your CFM gains. If this compressor really does put out 300LPM free flow (likely less), a 400LPM rotameter should still fall in the ballpark. These mechanical flow meters always have some restriction as well (suspends a physical weight inside a tapered tube) so it's not exactly "free flow" anymore and will measure a little less than actual. If it pegs, try filling a tire at 10psi or more (meter can handle 100psi) till you get a solid reading. Digging this mod series. Keep it up Nate!
Great video series ! Power Poles rock, I use them for EVERYTHING on my truck - all sizes, and you are correct, soldering crimped connections is unnecessary (except in emergencies) , ask the FAA
All i know is… That piano music in this video is the absolute jam lol. Sweet little groove had me bobbing me head while you tinkered on the compressor :)
I also have been running a Anderson plug on my front bar of my 4x4 for a compressor, solar panel, 12 volt shower and for also being able to plug a charger into it when it's sitting in the shed for weeks at a time.
I'm currently running the same compressor. I was hesitant at first .. you know the adage "you get what you pay for" ... but so far I've been impressed. I'm watching intently and look forward to more videos on how you modify this compressor improving basic performance and reliability.
For the reeds you can use feeler gauge I used them to repair a small outboard motor. 👍 Worked great. or go to a motor cycle shop and see what they have. Great project. 😁👍
Great videos! I strongly suggest a Circuit Breaker within a few inches from battery! I've used 500a breakers from battery banks that were pumping over 5000 watts to sound system. Breakers would "buzz" when slightly overloaded, but instantly open when shorted! Fuses only work once! Tiny 4 gauge wire would vaporize! Also, a one farad capacitor on the bus would extend the life of all the electronic stuff!
excellent video, I'm glad you mentioned making sure to take extra precautions with insulation when installing the Anderson connection wires. That's not something that a lot of people mention when doing something like that, even though it seems like it should be common knowledge!
Good to know you're in the NW.. I'm in the Everett area and have owned a semi-serious off-road vehicle - nicest vehicle I've ever owned - for two years now. Need to catch up on wear parts from two previous owners lack of maintenance, and get 18" wheels (smallest I can fit for more A/T tire options) so I can start doing some wheeling. As well as some other off-road upgrades. Came across your videos a couple of weeks ago and like what I've seen so far including this super cool compressor series. Thank you!
Nate, I like your thinking. Just a note on the electrical work, consider putting a large amp Fuse ( like 100 to 200 AMP )to save your truck from fire if a short to ground should occur. I was installing a large cable upgrade to my jeep when I had a short to ground and the large fuse 250 Amp saved my rig. I used ANL style fuses they have large AMP ratings. Keep up the great work.
Have you thought about fitting a air chamber to store air as you use it to give it some flexibility and to reduce the heat build up, just like the big air compressers. Old 2 stroke motorcycles had reed valve's made out of a plastic, polymer type of reed with a curved back plate, something like that or actually have a look at the way the 2 stroke Reed valves work. Try securing the Anderson plugs in a more secure and sturdy part of the chassy so it does not put excess ware and strain on the cables.
You will really appreciate having the anderson connecter's on front and rear of your vehicle. I've been using them for many years, from jumper cables winch connections on and on.
Same. Nice being able to unplug my winch if I just want to take my bumper off or being able to plug up a set of jumper cables without opening the hood.
I also have Anderson plugs on my plow truck. It runs the main power for the plow along with winch, jumpers. You could hook up solar charger along with other options. Just put a power cut off close to the battery if you are worried about it.
Dirt, I just finished watching both videos of the mods to your little twin cylinder compressor. I recently had a Viair go south on me (which I never liked in the first place) and I'm on the hunt for a replacement. I really like the twin cylinder versions vs the single cylinder ones. I really like the mods you made to it. I've dealt with air compressors for decades both at home and mobile. For home units there's not a lot that can be done to improve them. But for the smaller mobile ones, like 12V units, yep, just like you're doing, improvements can be made. As maybe has already been stated, I'd like to have seen some test comparison numbers on a bone stock unit and the modified one you're working with: 1. A flow and time test to fill a given sized tire from trail pressure to street pressure on stock vs modified 2. An amp draw or any current or voltage draw measurement on the stock unit while working on filling a tire, vs the modified one with the much larger electrical cables. I too have been using Anderson connectors for my electrical connections on my compressors etc. for years and years. They're great and very durable. Thanks for taking the time to video all those mods on that little compressor. About 99.999% of the off roaders could care less about improved efficiency and just simply put up with what ever comes out of the box. I like improvements on that stuff, just like what you're doing. Keep up the good work. Scott
Good job! I like the Anderson connectors, I have one connected to my truck battery which is handy to connect jumper cables to jump someone's vehicle, without having to pop the hood on my 4x4 F350. Plus you can do all the things you talked about connect an inverter easily or other 12V accessories.
Nate I've built a set of jumper cable the same way and plan on using the Anderson connectors on my compressor too. cooling that compressor is tough but i just place it in front of the jeeps grill and the radiator fan moves enough air to cool it. for the carry handle ..... fab up a new baseplate with a handle integrated into it.
Nate You should run another line with Anderson connectors to the back of the truck so you can run your winch on the trailer or on your extra winch on the trailer hitch for the rear so if you get into a hairy situation off road you can use both winches when necessary.
To do that safely he would need a sb350 Anderson connector and properly sized wire. A 12000lb winch can draw 430a so the medium duty Anderson like the ones he used (sb120 or sb175) would melt and the wire may even catch fire.
Nate your brain must never rest. You definitely like squeezing everything out of your equipment and making it the most functional item possible. Great video and I am so glad you have expanded upon your original idea!! Can’t wait to see what is next!!
definitely the best 12v air compressor mods video hands down. Keep doing what you do! I’d love to get my hands on a MAXI track products but they aren’t available through Napa in canada. I think you comparing the modded one vs how the manufacture sells them, will be a great video and test!
I picked up this compressor last year and also used jumper cable wires and Anderson connectors. So much better than the stock wires and alligator clips. Also did the pressure switch mod to auto shutoff to prevent over pressurization.
I did the SAME EXACT thing for my compressor and jumper cables last year, lol. Great minds and somehow mind keeps up. My jumper Anderson ends join to make a comple set. Separated, one side will connect to the compressor and allow clamping to a different battery, and the other side connects to the truck to jump someone without lifting the hood. I'm VERY interested to see what other accessories you rig to hook to the truck.
About 5 years ago I ported out one of these compressors same as yours, it was 18% faster afterwards. I drilled out the ports in the head under the reeds, enlarged the intake and cut up the air filter housing. Stock on a 33x12.5r15 0-40psi was 3 minutes, 58 seconds and ported was 3:15. I think you've gone down the right path reducing the voltage drop, mine was a whole minute slower running off my other 4wd with an inadequate alternator! (11.5v vs 14.15v!) If you want to fit bigger reeds I think cutting up some feeler gauges would work well.
If we had more/better manufacturing infrastructure in this country, I bet you could simply design your own compressor set up and sell it. I'm loving these mods!
There's tons of infrastructure. Puma makes compressors then resells them under tons of suppliers...they're here in the US...but the costs like labor is very different so the pricing is different
Dude, this series is sick. I always wanted to see Anderson connectors utilized outside the warehouse. You just confirmed my theory. Opened up a whole lot of possibilities. Thanks bro I appreciate you.
Great idea on using the motorcycle type of filter to open up the air intake flow! Nice use of the andersson connectors also oh I have a beefy crimper if you ever want to borrow it.
Good video. As a former old school machinist you can improve finish and tool life by spraying some Kerosene when machining aluminum. Just a helpful suggestion.
Love the Anderson connector added under the hood. I think I’m gonna do the same thing to my Colorado and do a similar setup just to make airing up easier.
@10:30 someone forgot to put their heat shrink on before the cable termination :) been there, done that... a million times haha. Absolutely love your videos!
Note instead of running just heavier cable, you should always fuse between ur battery and bus bar suitable to the cable and then each accessory should be individually fused as per the equipment specs!
Same on the solder, but after having attended several different courses over the years taught me that PROPER crimping is superior for high vibration applications.
yep. no soldering on vehicles. unless you can tie down both ends of the connection properly. but surely not for hot or ground leads of the starter battery. solder ain't a good conducter.
i put that power port on my power wagon and it was the best thing i've ever done. i jump vehicle vehicles with it, i modded my ARB twin suitcase compressor to just plug in, it's awesome!
Lets see another one part 4 , love these vids i just got a GSPSCN TWIN CYLINDER, basically just like yours and im gonna do a mod or two that you did ,, so yea love to see a part 4. Thanks nate..
I'm thinking... enlarge the output port. Not too much. (Don't know how much) Small hole = high pressure, small flow, large hole = high flow low pressure. The seal on the port is the tricky bit. Great video.
Great videos :) We have a similar compressor for cheaps here in Oz. 1. Question: Why not remove the powder coating from the heads so the alloy can do it's job of dissipating heat better?
Strips of "spring steel", comes in a range of thicknesses, then you can shape it with a belt sander or similar. I've done it on larger air compressors.
Jump charging another vehicle. Andersons are great to use, and allow you to deliver power anywhere. Pro tip, when you solder your connectors. DO NOT leave the wire in there. Roll up some solder and stuff it into the connector cold, add more rolled up solder to the desired fill when hot. Precut your wire to the desired depth, heat the connector with your torch. Then shove the end in when it's nice and ready, should take no longer than 5 seconds. Once your wire is in, hold it straight for at least 30 seconds, that makes sure the connection is solid and cooled. The vise will help cool it, but the connector will stay hot. Look forward to see what you do for the trailer power.
I'll be honest Nate, when you were talking about cutting big holes in the "head", and some sort of filter, I pictured velocity stacks with filters like on vintage streetbikes.
Love this series.i wish so badly I could get my hands on one of these compressors. Question though. Have you thought of the molded bolt through holes on the Anderson connectors. There is a recess on one side to capture the bolt head or nut. Certainly your skills with nutcerts would come in handy here. Would love to hear your thoughts on why or why not.
I run Anderson connectors on all my vehicles and I added them to both ends of my jumper cables that came from my kit from Amazon, so I can plug vehicle-vehicle, vehicle to hitch mounted winch (front, back and soon side mounted on my Jeep) or in a pinch I can connect multiple lengths together if need be. I use a 300a marine circuit breaker to shut power off when not in use. Oh and I can recharge my camper reserve battery
Like the bus bar, I have the same one. I've wanted this napa compressor since I saw it but i have a 24V battery powered unit that works great. After seeing the mods you have pioneered I may go find one. I use Anderson connectors for several hi amp situations from a single lead off battery.
Soon as I saw you use jumper cables, you had a new subscriber!! Ive bought and use jumper cable for years! Everyone gave me shit when i would buy a set of 2 or 4 gauge ofc cables and cut them up when i got home! So much cheaper than going and purchasing ofc wire at the local radio shack or tractor supply. 😅
My compressor sits in a TOUGH brand cargo box in my bed. I also have my 6 agm deep cycle battery bank inside as well. I'm installing a universal 12v HF electric auto cooling fan inside the box as well before summer. Hopefully that will keep it cooler inside there.
At work I use SMC brand Digital flow meters, definitely have been thinking about borrowing one to see how many CFM I have flowing from my AC compressor conversion. You can use feeler gauges as reeds!
I strongly recommend you put a inline fuse or breaker on that connection coming off your bus. high amp breakers are cheap, resettable, and above all the safety factor! love the videos keep up the awesome builds.
We thought of nost if the improvements, hard mounting the comp on a cross bed tool box with jumper cables running to aux battery. Started with a 80 amp breaker and was tripping. Upped to a 100 fuse/breaker and no more issues.
I was just going to post the same thing. Fuse everything that is not going to the starter or fuse box.
I don't claim to be an expert, just basing this on past experience. I've had numerous job site compressors with a similar 90 deg short copper outlet from the "Head" like you have. All of them failed at one point from vibration cracking the pipe at the fitting. If possible adding a single coil in the line adds enough flex to make the connection less rigid and less prone to breakage. Alternatively having pre-cut extra pieces in your kit would allow for a quick change on the trail if needed.
Great video as always mate. I’d love to see this compressor tested side by side with a standard one for speed on inflating a set of tyres from x pressure to y pressure to see how much difference its all made.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
Me too! I'm still trying to source another oem one
My local corner hardware store here in SW Washington had one on the shelf for $129.99. I just picked it up, since I already have one I’d be happy to pass it on to you for what I paid.
@@krweatherl I’d take it if he doesnt.
@@pnwexplorer5343 if he doesn’t take it, I’ll let you know
This is exactly the kind of thing I think we all want to see. Clever little mods that get the most out of some of our everyday gear. Brilliant episodes. Can’t wait for part 3
This series is awesome! Those Anderson fittings would be awesome for a bunch of stuff.
1. Jumper cables that plug in on 1 side so you don’t have to open the hood.
2. Maybe somehow you can plug solar panels into it and charge the trucks battery when camping?
3. A spotlight could plug into it that can be used when working at night.
4. Potential welder plug (with modification)
Meanwhile most of these stuff we already use Anderson plugs for in Australia and have done for at least 10 years.
There are things that you need to take into consideration.
For jumper cables, the ones he used are inadequate. His 4 gauge cable is treated for about 500a he used either sb120 or sb175 Anderson which have 240a and 280a rated continuous draw respectively. So his jumper is now derated to that.
So for a jumper cable you would need the sb350. But it would need a big isolator like the ones used for winches, or a big fuse, in the case of an isolator you presumably would need to open the hood to activate it. You don't want an always live electrical wire of that thickness under your hood.
For solar panels it is always done through a DC-DC or an mppt but the SB50 and much lighter cable is all you need. I have several Anderson in my ute in several places for these type of scenarios.
For the welder you would need again an sb350 and they are huge.
I commented forever ago about how your welding shots were better then most welding channels I just wanted to tell you that there is nothing else like your channel the hands on projects the diversity your production value is right beside of 4wd 247 and you don't even have a camera crew you don't get the perfect offroad footage with drones and a camera car but you still get awesome offroad shots I love the projects no matter how little or big the coustomization on your channel is unmatched love the content love the personality really love the channel with your advice I feel like I could tackle some awesome fab projects the knowledge that you've shared with me and many others will be appreciated for decades to come
Love these video's as I have also done this to my compressors as well. Except I went a little over board and joined 2 of these compressor's together. Ported the intake and exhaust, changed all the outlets to nothing smaller then 1/4" , swapped out the electronics for a 200amp Solenoid, obviously upgraded all the wiring and runs off a 175amp Anderson plug. All tucked away in a custom box that's running 4x 12v computer fans above the heads. One thing to note is you will find the limits of the valve in the tire at the pressure these run. And any mods will almost not Change the time it takes at all as the valve is your biggest restriction, unless you work a way out to up the pressure. But when pumping all 4 up at the same time that's where the improvement can be seen. I compared the difference by filling my workshop compressor tank from 0-40psi and timed it. Single unmodified compressor did it in 54sec, ported/modified single compressor did it in 46sec, 2 modified compressors joined did it in 23sec! I'm keen to see how far you go with this compressor. I like your idea of adding extra valves in the head!
Awesome…LOL, yep, port and polish Schrader valves & stems.
I just pull the needle valve out when doing big tires. I have a quick coupler fitting that threads on the valve stem.
Turbo Charged portable Compressors
I'm doing something similar but with a 10-gallon air brake tank added on.
I know I'm late to the party but I had the same idea lol was thinking I can buy 2 of these and design the block to conjoin them into an H4 configuration, route the lines through a finned reservoir to help cool the air and not bother with fans since I'll be aired up before it gets any serious heat lol
You’re 1 talented cat! I absolutely love watching your channel. The creativity you come up with…. Priceless!
PT3? Lol I have a different brand but it probably comes from the same factory so I’m definitely going to dive in to mine soon! Love the videos
A lot of auto AC compressors (like a York) use reed valves, I'm sure the local wrecking yards are full of them.
I ported the head on my old Masterflow single cylinder version of that thing, and it made a noticeable difference.
One thing to keep an eye on is the connecting rod bearing, I had one go bad (after several years) and it knocked like crazy, but they are easy to replace with a better quality one, they're just peened in place, at least on mine.
I used to pick them up for $25 before the offroad community discovered them!
Love your channel.
As far as the reeds go, I've seen the Aussies use their feeler gauges cut down to fix or upgrade.
Also, to crimp bigger gauge wires, I cut the appropriate sized nut in half and squeeze everything together in a vice.
That’s brilliant. Gonna remember that
This is awesome! I'll hold off on modding mine until yours gets some mileage on it, but these mods look fantastic! Thank you for not just doing all of this off camera.
always be sure to fuse leads coming off the battery! OEM always have fusible links, or fuses, aftermarket is no different. triple insulating isn't a good replacement for proper fusing practices.
can even do a circuit breaker for ease of resetting if fuse replacement/cost/time is a concern
Agree, especially in a spot where it can easily get smooshed in an accident or coming off a rock wrong.
a simple solution could be a large circuit breaker in between the battery and bus bar that he is using. that way he can easily disconnect power to the aftermarket and leave all the toyota directly connected to the battery
heaps of OEM battery wires are missing fuses, especially on older rigs, but I agree, a row of nice fat ANL fuses built into the buss bar is what I use on stuff like this
Absolutely love this series. It may be my favorite of all your video series. So good!
Great! Glad you are enjoying it!
I like the Anderson connectors I use them for jumping customers for my business great idea for the compressor so you don't need to open the hood
You can wire out everything using Andersons including ditching all "cigarette" plugs and going with Powerwerx Powerpole at 45amps over 10gauge wiring. They have everything for expansion and connection. Everything from solar to lighting to fridge etc. all on Powerpoles. I use the large Andersons with 1/0 welders copper for distribution from front to rear to the auxillary, from auxillary batt (LiFEPO) and a 300amp marine switch to tie it all together. I WILL be getting that compressor with the mods you've incorporated to back feed my on board Viair system for better faster flow in air ups. GREAT videos man, keep it up!
Hey, great idea on increasing intake air BUT BAD BAD BAD for your compressor. The location of air intake on sides is specifically designed to draw air over cylinder head fins and cause a cooling affect. Think of it as forcing air flow across cylinder on hardly motor as you drive. If you sit on red light for a long time it overheats because there is no air flow. So since you did a hole on top you MUST add a few cheap 12v computer fans or something to force air across your cylinder fins to draw that heat away because radiating heat (which is only way to dissipate heat now since your mod) is not enough especially if in that ammo box you will burn up your cylinder seals or warp the metal. Good luck. Great ideas by the way.
CFM GAINS: Search for "rotameter PRM 400 LPM" to help quantify your CFM gains. If this compressor really does put out 300LPM free flow (likely less), a 400LPM rotameter should still fall in the ballpark. These mechanical flow meters always have some restriction as well (suspends a physical weight inside a tapered tube) so it's not exactly "free flow" anymore and will measure a little less than actual. If it pegs, try filling a tire at 10psi or more (meter can handle 100psi) till you get a solid reading. Digging this mod series. Keep it up Nate!
loving this series cant wait to see what you do next,
Thanks!
Great video series ! Power Poles rock, I use them for EVERYTHING on my truck - all sizes, and you are correct, soldering crimped connections is unnecessary (except in emergencies) , ask the FAA
All i know is… That piano music in this video is the absolute jam lol. Sweet little groove had me bobbing me head while you tinkered on the compressor :)
Thanks man!
Franklin pump part two this is so cool because they sell the same brand in New Zealand can’t wait to do the same😊
I also have been running a Anderson plug on my front bar of my 4x4 for a compressor, solar panel, 12 volt shower and for also being able to plug a charger into it when it's sitting in the shed for weeks at a time.
Love the mindset and creative thoughts along with the can do and this is how. Thanks
I'm currently running the same compressor. I was hesitant at first .. you know the adage "you get what you pay for" ... but so far I've been impressed. I'm watching intently and look forward to more videos on how you modify this compressor improving basic performance and reliability.
Love this! Those connectors are great. They have smaller ones that are single pole but can connect together. So you can make a color coded plug
Owsome cant wait for part 3.
Cheers. 🍻
For the reeds you can use feeler gauge I used them to repair a small outboard motor. 👍 Worked great. or go to a motor cycle shop and see what they have. Great project. 😁👍
This is the stuff that is fun to GEEK out on!!!
Nate is a national treasure!
I enjoy seeing your problem-solving approach. I see some overlap with your compressor mods and two stroke engine tuning.
Great videos! I strongly suggest a Circuit Breaker within a few inches from battery! I've used 500a breakers from battery banks that were pumping over 5000 watts to sound system. Breakers would "buzz" when slightly overloaded, but instantly open when shorted! Fuses only work once! Tiny 4 gauge wire would vaporize! Also, a one farad capacitor on the bus would extend the life of all the electronic stuff!
excellent video, I'm glad you mentioned making sure to take extra precautions with insulation when installing the Anderson connection wires. That's not something that a lot of people mention when doing something like that, even though it seems like it should be common knowledge!
I love Anderson connectors. I have them on the front, rear and interior of my Rubicon. You might investigate two stroke outboard motors for reeds.
I'd love to see some pics of your setup. I just got a Rubicon and am looking to do at least a set of Anderson connectors on the front.
Good to know you're in the NW.. I'm in the Everett area and have owned a semi-serious off-road vehicle - nicest vehicle I've ever owned - for two years now. Need to catch up on wear parts from two previous owners lack of maintenance, and get 18" wheels (smallest I can fit for more A/T tire options) so I can start doing some wheeling. As well as some other off-road upgrades.
Came across your videos a couple of weeks ago and like what I've seen so far including this super cool compressor series. Thank you!
Nate, I like your thinking. Just a note on the electrical work, consider putting a large amp Fuse ( like 100 to 200 AMP )to save your truck from fire if a short to ground should occur. I was installing a large cable upgrade to my jeep when I had a short to ground and the large fuse 250 Amp saved my rig. I used ANL style fuses they have large AMP ratings. Keep up the great work.
Good job. The key to more air is more stroke which will pull and push more air.
Have you thought about fitting a air chamber to store air as you use it to give it some flexibility and to reduce the heat build up, just like the big air compressers.
Old 2 stroke motorcycles had reed valve's made out of a plastic, polymer type of reed with a curved back plate, something like that or actually have a look at the way the 2 stroke Reed valves work.
Try securing the Anderson plugs in a more secure and sturdy part of the chassy so it does not put excess ware and strain on the cables.
You will really appreciate having the anderson connecter's on front and rear of your vehicle. I've been using them for many years, from jumper cables winch connections on and on.
That's what I use for jumper cables
Same. Nice being able to unplug my winch if I just want to take my bumper off or being able to plug up a set of jumper cables without opening the hood.
YES, I planned to install Anderson plugs on front & rear of my rig for cables/accessories.
I also have Anderson plugs on my plow truck. It runs the main power for the plow along with winch, jumpers. You could hook up solar charger along with other options.
Just put a power cut off close to the battery if you are worried about it.
Dirt,
I just finished watching both videos of the mods to your little twin cylinder compressor. I recently had a Viair go south on me (which I never liked in the first place) and I'm on the hunt for a replacement. I really like the twin cylinder versions vs the single cylinder ones. I really like the mods you made to it. I've dealt with air compressors for decades both at home and mobile. For home units there's not a lot that can be done to improve them. But for the smaller mobile ones, like 12V units, yep, just like you're doing, improvements can be made.
As maybe has already been stated, I'd like to have seen some test comparison numbers on a bone stock unit and the modified one you're working with:
1. A flow and time test to fill a given sized tire from trail pressure to street pressure on stock vs modified
2. An amp draw or any current or voltage draw measurement on the stock unit while working on filling a tire, vs the modified one with the much larger electrical cables.
I too have been using Anderson connectors for my electrical connections on my compressors etc. for years and years. They're great and very durable. Thanks for taking the time to video all those mods on that little compressor. About 99.999% of the off roaders could care less about improved efficiency and just simply put up with what ever comes out of the box. I like improvements on that stuff, just like what you're doing. Keep up the good work.
Scott
That so-satisfying "click" when the Anderson contact go home properly
Ported heads, free flow air filter, next velocity stacks & roller cam?! Ah back to my youth!
Lol yes dude! Me too
Good job! I like the Anderson connectors, I have one connected to my truck battery which is handy to connect jumper cables to jump someone's vehicle, without having to pop the hood on my 4x4 F350. Plus you can do all the things you talked about connect an inverter easily or other 12V accessories.
Nate I've built a set of jumper cable the same way and plan on using the Anderson connectors on my compressor too. cooling that compressor is tough but i just place it in front of the jeeps grill and the radiator fan moves enough air to cool it. for the carry handle ..... fab up a new baseplate with a handle integrated into it.
Dang, FUSE MAN, A FUSE! Now thats a NICE set up!
Always inspiring! I have no need to upgrade my compressor but definitely want to get out and work on the rig.
Nate
You should run another line with Anderson connectors to the back of the truck so you can run your winch on the trailer or on your extra winch on the trailer hitch for the rear so if you get into a hairy situation off road you can use both winches when necessary.
To do that safely he would need a sb350 Anderson connector and properly sized wire. A 12000lb winch can draw 430a so the medium duty Anderson like the ones he used (sb120 or sb175) would melt and the wire may even catch fire.
I have made my own compressor reeds before just find the right material and cut them out. Great video, lots of good ideas.
Nate your brain must never rest. You definitely like squeezing everything out of your equipment and making it the most functional item possible. Great video and I am so glad you have expanded upon your original idea!! Can’t wait to see what is next!!
Great ideas Nate thanks. My maxitrax has been great so far
Very cool series. Nice, on the ground engineering. 👌
This is ABSOLUTELY amazing
Such an interesting little project…great stuff as always Nate 👍🏻
Very nice! Now permanently mount that air compressor with a switch wired in somewhere and a gauge further out
definitely the best 12v air compressor mods video hands down. Keep doing what you do! I’d love to get my hands on a MAXI track products but they aren’t available through Napa in canada. I think you comparing the modded one vs how the manufacture sells them, will be a great video and test!
Thank you! I plan on a side by side comparison in the final episode 👍
I picked up this compressor last year and also used jumper cable wires and Anderson connectors. So much better than the stock wires and alligator clips. Also did the pressure switch mod to auto shutoff to prevent over pressurization.
I did the SAME EXACT thing for my compressor and jumper cables last year, lol. Great minds and somehow mind keeps up.
My jumper Anderson ends join to make a comple set. Separated, one side will connect to the compressor and allow clamping to a different battery, and the other side connects to the truck to jump someone without lifting the hood.
I'm VERY interested to see what other accessories you rig to hook to the truck.
About 5 years ago I ported out one of these compressors same as yours, it was 18% faster afterwards. I drilled out the ports in the head under the reeds, enlarged the intake and cut up the air filter housing. Stock on a 33x12.5r15 0-40psi was 3 minutes, 58 seconds and ported was 3:15. I think you've gone down the right path reducing the voltage drop, mine was a whole minute slower running off my other 4wd with an inadequate alternator! (11.5v vs 14.15v!) If you want to fit bigger reeds I think cutting up some feeler gauges would work well.
If we had more/better manufacturing infrastructure in this country, I bet you could simply design your own compressor set up and sell it. I'm loving these mods!
There's tons of infrastructure. Puma makes compressors then resells them under tons of suppliers...they're here in the US...but the costs like labor is very different so the pricing is different
Interesting. Really looking forward to some of your adventures.
Man I love this series. Thanks Nate
Dude, this series is sick. I always wanted to see Anderson connectors utilized outside the warehouse. You just confirmed my theory. Opened up a whole lot of possibilities. Thanks bro I appreciate you.
Look up solder slugs. They're the best thing for making battery cables. Great video!!!
Great idea on using the motorcycle type of filter to open up the air intake flow!
Nice use of the andersson connectors also oh I have a beefy crimper if you ever want to borrow it.
You're gettin jacked Nate! Lookin swoll
Good video. As a former old school machinist you can improve finish and tool life by spraying some Kerosene when machining aluminum. Just a helpful suggestion.
Interesting! Thanks for the tip!
Love the Anderson connector added under the hood. I think I’m gonna do the same thing to my Colorado and do a similar setup just to make airing up easier.
G’Day from Australia, love the video 👍
@10:30 someone forgot to put their heat shrink on before the cable termination :) been there, done that... a million times haha. Absolutely love your videos!
Note instead of running just heavier cable, you should always fuse between ur battery and bus bar suitable to the cable and then each accessory should be individually fused as per the equipment specs!
Yes a Part Two!! Well done Nate!
Same on the solder, but after having attended several different courses over the years taught me that PROPER crimping is superior for high vibration applications.
yep. no soldering on vehicles. unless you can tie down both ends of the connection properly. but surely not for hot or ground leads of the starter battery. solder ain't a good conducter.
Very good ides that i have been thinking of doing to my compressor.
Love these compressor upgrade videos!
i put that power port on my power wagon and it was the best thing i've ever done. i jump vehicle vehicles with it, i modded my ARB twin suitcase compressor to just plug in, it's awesome!
hmm now you got me thinking about some possible upgrades to my smittybilt A/C! Great video!
A/C = Air Conditioning
Do it! I want these videos to inspire you to get in the garage and get creative 👊
Love the updates. I picked up this compressor recently, and look forward to hear your long term testing and make mine better!
How recently and where? Every Napa I check says they're out of stock for the foreseeable future.
@@CameronShute a few months ago. I ordered it online and picked it up a few days later at a local store.
Gotcha. Yeah I'm a little late to this party 😂 oh well, use the one I got 'til she blows!
Nice! More mods and updates on the way 👍
Lets see another one part 4 , love these vids i just got a GSPSCN TWIN CYLINDER, basically just like yours and im gonna do a mod or two that you did ,, so yea love to see a part 4. Thanks nate..
Love it man, this kind of stuff is why I watch the channel man…super cool mods, thanks for the upload..:)
Keep Em Comming Bro Love it
2 stroke motorcycle engines usually have reeds, maybe you find some that match your needs.
Thanks!
I'm thinking... enlarge the output port. Not too much. (Don't know how much) Small hole = high pressure, small flow, large hole = high flow low pressure. The seal on the port is the tricky bit.
Great video.
I use the anderson connectors for winch quick connects, jumper cables, and a rod holder for battery welding.
Very cool mods. From one fabricator to another. 👍👍
Thanks brother 👊
Great videos :) We have a similar compressor for cheaps here in Oz. 1. Question: Why not remove the powder coating from the heads so the alloy can do it's job of dissipating heat better?
EXCELLENT idea!
Really enjoy watching your upgrades. For some of the cooling you could try to cut fins in your manifold for more surface area.
All these fancy mods ain't even got a go handle! lol good work Nate
Strips of "spring steel", comes in a range of thicknesses, then you can shape it with a belt sander or similar. I've done it on larger air compressors.
Very cool. Love doing stuff like this too. 🍻
Jump charging another vehicle. Andersons are great to use, and allow you to deliver power anywhere. Pro tip, when you solder your connectors. DO NOT leave the wire in there. Roll up some solder and stuff it into the connector cold, add more rolled up solder to the desired fill when hot. Precut your wire to the desired depth, heat the connector with your torch. Then shove the end in when it's nice and ready, should take no longer than 5 seconds. Once your wire is in, hold it straight for at least 30 seconds, that makes sure the connection is solid and cooled. The vise will help cool it, but the connector will stay hot. Look forward to see what you do for the trailer power.
I'll be honest Nate, when you were talking about cutting big holes in the "head", and some sort of filter, I pictured velocity stacks with filters like on vintage streetbikes.
you could use 12v delta fans usually come in 4in/120mm(?) and you'd be looking for spring steel possibly feeler gages would work
Love this series.i wish so badly I could get my hands on one of these compressors. Question though. Have you thought of the molded bolt through holes on the Anderson connectors. There is a recess on one side to capture the bolt head or nut. Certainly your skills with nutcerts would come in handy here. Would love to hear your thoughts on why or why not.
I'm going to build a different bumper and I want to address this when I do 👍
Good plan
Awesome! Thanks for the update
I run Anderson connectors on all my vehicles and I added them to both ends of my jumper cables that came from my kit from Amazon, so I can plug vehicle-vehicle, vehicle to hitch mounted winch (front, back and soon side mounted on my Jeep) or in a pinch I can connect multiple lengths together if need be. I use a 300a marine circuit breaker to shut power off when not in use. Oh and I can recharge my camper reserve battery
Man, I love your cost saving tips! Thanks for helping me save $$
Like the bus bar, I have the same one. I've wanted this napa compressor since I saw it but i have a 24V battery powered unit that works great. After seeing the mods you have pioneered I may go find one. I use Anderson connectors for several hi amp situations from a single lead off battery.
Soon as I saw you use jumper cables, you had a new subscriber!! Ive bought and use jumper cable for years! Everyone gave me shit when i would buy a set of 2 or 4 gauge ofc cables and cut them up when i got home! So much cheaper than going and purchasing ofc wire at the local radio shack or tractor supply. 😅
My compressor sits in a TOUGH brand cargo box in my bed. I also have my 6 agm deep cycle battery bank inside as well. I'm installing a universal 12v HF electric auto cooling fan inside the box as well before summer. Hopefully that will keep it cooler inside there.
Really well thought out, great work as always 😎
At work I use SMC brand Digital flow meters, definitely have been thinking about borrowing one to see how many CFM I have flowing from my AC compressor conversion.
You can use feeler gauges as reeds!