my main sharpening machine is a 2x72 belt grinder. Essential to using a belt grinder to sharpen is speed control over the motor so metal can be removed in a slow, controllable manner and heat build up can be managed. Anyway, I did a lot of scissor sharpening freehand on the belt grinder and was happy with the results. I kept looking at scissor specific systems, but didn't buy into one until I started sharpening enough scissors to think about a faster process. I thought long and hard about buying the clamp and arm from the Wolff Industries machines and adapting them to my belt grinder. Instead, I decided to get the entire Twice As Sharp system. I did not like it for various reasons and ended up adapting the clamp and arm to the belt grinder. Doing that got me a very effective scissor sharpening system. I do have to do a couple minutes of setup when I want to d scissors, but it's not much more than dragging out the TAS. Also, with all the belts available, much better results than with the TAS.
@@capnmatt41 Yes, I grind against a platen. I try not to sharpen anything, scissors or otherwise, with concave bevels. One issue I've run into is vibration on scissors with longer blades. With a 2" wide belt, there's a lot of metal being ground (vibrated) at one time and the rigidity offered by the clamp can't deal with it. I'm thinking the solution will be getting a belt splitter and making the belts 1". Overall, I much prefer using the TAS clamp over freehand. I wish it was burlier, and might machine a heavy duty copy one day.
Thanks for sharing all of that info on scissors, Matt. I can see where I the twice as sharp can save time. What kind of scissors can you do on that one as opposed to the other machine you showed? I am loving the idea of finding a used one.
I had to think about this for a minute...I'm not sure I've come across a pair of scissors that I have not been able to do on the 327 / A1 / Twice as Sharp (TAS). Those bandage scissors were a good example of some challenges with other sharpening systems.
That's nice to hear. I love my Edge Pro, but scissor setup and sharpening can take time. Results are great. However Saving time and being able to sharpen more scissors plus garden shears in the same time is compelling. Keeping my eye out for a Twice as Sharp.
I sharpen bandage scissors for my work in orthopedics. It's not easy, I use my Tormek but it's mostly modified free hand. Then a file and a fine stone to finish. I'm not a member yet of the guild yet. But I would be happy to share more details for my strategy. Like you I also do not separate the scissors. I have found it causes non-repairable damage to the screw.. The tough part is most medium $ bandage scissors have micro serrations. Let me know if you would like a detailed explanation, too long to put in a video response.
@@capnmatt41 Thanks Matt, I will send an email with some details. I'm for sure down with a phone contact or something, I love sharing information with other sharpeners. My email is coniff3@yahoo.com so you will recognize it when it comes in, just in case it alerts as "unknown" or "trash". It's going to take me a little to get something together, you can expect my email in a few days. Thanks Matt, love what you are doing.
No market for sharpening? If you think about it there is virtually nothing that mankind manufacturers or builds that doesn't involve cutting tools: everything is cut. Even the teeth on excavation equipment needs sharpening. I think the red thread lock is for any loose screws. The UK changed to metric in the early seventies so imperial measured replacements are now hard to find; so if if we come across an old item with a loose fitting screw/bolt , we would pack it out or use thread lock.
Thanks @Hollow Dog! I hope I showed that I did check the second blade to make sure it was at the same angle, and I'd love to know more context around the recommendation to hot hone the anvil blade. Appreciate your comment!
@@capnmatt41 I'm not much on a lot of typing so here is something for a manufacture. "There are many advantages to using a serrated edge scissors. First it is a common misconception that both blades are serrated. When used in crafting a scissors works best with one serrated edge. Serrated blades hold onto material much better than polished blades. This means you do not have to risk pushing or folding on your material. When cutting multiple layers of fabric, a serrated edge is recommended. A serrated blade is less likely to slip on a fabrics surface. Certain kinds of material are also very lightweight or silky, using a serrated edge will keep up from slipping or fraying when cut. Lastly a serrated blade last longer than the traditional polished edge."
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Ken onion with the grinding attachment it has an angle adjustment.
600 scissors a week! That’s 5 minutes per scissor, 10 hours per day, 6 days per week. That’s a grind!
my main sharpening machine is a 2x72 belt grinder. Essential to using a belt grinder to sharpen is speed control over the motor so metal can be removed in a slow, controllable manner and heat build up can be managed. Anyway, I did a lot of scissor sharpening freehand on the belt grinder and was happy with the results. I kept looking at scissor specific systems, but didn't buy into one until I started sharpening enough scissors to think about a faster process. I thought long and hard about buying the clamp and arm from the Wolff Industries machines and adapting them to my belt grinder. Instead, I decided to get the entire Twice As Sharp system. I did not like it for various reasons and ended up adapting the clamp and arm to the belt grinder. Doing that got me a very effective scissor sharpening system. I do have to do a couple minutes of setup when I want to d scissors, but it's not much more than dragging out the TAS. Also, with all the belts available, much better results than with the TAS.
I've thought about that. Do you grind against the platen?
@@capnmatt41 Yes, I grind against a platen. I try not to sharpen anything, scissors or otherwise, with concave bevels. One issue I've run into is vibration on scissors with longer blades. With a 2" wide belt, there's a lot of metal being ground (vibrated) at one time and the rigidity offered by the clamp can't deal with it. I'm thinking the solution will be getting a belt splitter and making the belts 1". Overall, I much prefer using the TAS clamp over freehand. I wish it was burlier, and might machine a heavy duty copy one day.
Thanks for sharing all of that info on scissors, Matt. I can see where I the twice as sharp can save time. What kind of scissors can you do on that one as opposed to the other machine you showed? I am loving the idea of finding a used one.
I had to think about this for a minute...I'm not sure I've come across a pair of scissors that I have not been able to do on the 327 / A1 / Twice as Sharp (TAS). Those bandage scissors were a good example of some challenges with other sharpening systems.
That's nice to hear. I love my Edge Pro, but scissor setup and sharpening can take time. Results are great. However Saving time and being able to sharpen more scissors plus garden shears in the same time is compelling. Keeping my eye out for a Twice as Sharp.
I sharpen bandage scissors for my work in orthopedics. It's not easy, I use my Tormek but it's mostly modified free hand. Then a file and a fine stone to finish. I'm not a member yet of the guild yet. But I would be happy to share more details for my strategy. Like you I also do not separate the scissors. I have found it causes non-repairable damage to the screw.. The tough part is most medium $ bandage scissors have micro serrations. Let me know if you would like a detailed explanation, too long to put in a video response.
Yeah man, I'm interested. Maybe we can connect by phone or something. Hit me up at matt@americanedgesharpening.com
Thanks!
@@capnmatt41 Thanks Matt, I will send an email with some details. I'm for sure down with a phone contact or something, I love sharing information with other sharpeners. My email is coniff3@yahoo.com so you will recognize it when it comes in, just in case it alerts as "unknown" or "trash".
It's going to take me a little to get something together, you can expect my email in a few days.
Thanks Matt, love what you are doing.
No market for sharpening? If you think about it there is virtually nothing that mankind manufacturers or builds that doesn't involve cutting tools: everything is cut. Even the teeth on excavation equipment needs sharpening.
I think the red thread lock is for any loose screws. The UK changed to metric in the early seventies so imperial measured replacements are now hard to find; so if if we come across an old item with a loose fitting screw/bolt , we would pack it out or use thread lock.
Matt
Don't assume both blades are the same angle.
Try NOT honing the anvil blade.
Thanks @Hollow Dog!
I hope I showed that I did check the second blade to make sure it was at the same angle, and I'd love to know more context around the recommendation to hot hone the anvil blade. Appreciate your comment!
@@capnmatt41
I'm not much on a lot of typing so here is something for a manufacture.
"There are many advantages to using a serrated edge scissors. First it is a common misconception that both blades are serrated. When used in crafting a scissors works best with one serrated edge. Serrated blades hold onto material much better than polished blades. This means you do not have to risk pushing or folding on your material.
When cutting multiple layers of fabric, a serrated edge is recommended. A serrated blade is less likely to slip on a fabrics surface. Certain kinds of material are also very lightweight or silky, using a serrated edge will keep up from slipping or fraying when cut. Lastly a serrated blade last longer than the traditional polished edge."