@@callumross406they’re not “held” in they have a plastic lip but even high dollar ones are that way and they all fall out regardless. It’s not wise to just take them off the rails without the plastic block to slide in behind it. I’ve rebuilt so many of these damn things on our robots at work because of people doing that.
@@lonewolftech There are usually some gaps between the balls as they need some play to be able to move around the corners. This is perfectly normal and doesn't impact the functionality.
@@lonewolftech i work with thk rails at work alot and have never once seen the bearings fall out if the rail is removed. Maybe thats just the brand though
A little, but I was freaking out more at 4:52, cause in the previous video he glued the board down with hot-snot! EDIT: my bad! Not the same guy, just the same machine. Turns out this guy used stand-offs in his build!
@@tde04014 It's not dangerous. These tools operate completely smoothly. And it's like driving a car to be honest. You feel what you are doing, and once experienced it's hard to make a mistake. Edit: That's what me as a carpenter would say that use this tool every single day. All though i would probably use a wood carving disc on an angle grinder instead. And the reason these tools are so smooth is because of the centrifugal force of the spinning blade, essentially making it a stabilisator.
Carbide dust is toxic use dust extraction! Standard abrasive cut off disks aren’t made for those forces. You are squaring the grinder to the base but is that the angle of the carbide?
Usually the kerf angle is alternating between teeth but I suppose if the results do the job then who cares! Great work. With a few developments to your design you could also make that work too! 😎
yes, though it looks like it has a compound angle (the back of the teeth is also angled) so it's fine-ish, you still get a single point of contact most of the time. edit: it seems like some carbide saws like that don't even have a compound angle, and are just flat and rely on the top angle only, so for one of those it would be perfectly fine.
you could just give your blades to the sharpening service it dosent cost much if you have multiple blades to sharpen or if its for a shitty circ saw with cheap blades just buy new ones and yeet the old ones out
Depends if it's a cross-cut or ripping blade. This setup would be fine for a ripping blade, but yes cross cuts alternate and this would ruin the bevels. Could fix that though by having it do every other tooth, then flip the blade over and reverse it or change the grinder angle.
Cutting edges are all about the rake and relief. This sharpening tools looks like it reduced the rake angle to zero, not good for wood or other soft materials.
Very fun project. Although that cutting wheel is for: acid resistant steel, aluminium, stainless steel, and carbon steel. It will not sharpen carbide toothed saw blades and they are not intended for side loads in application. Consider a search for "100mm Blade Sharpener for Grinding Carbide Cutter". These are diamond grit embedded in resin. The infeed would also need to be much slower with a solid repeatable tooth stop.
@@Bob_Adkins Thanks for the response Bob. "Any cheap wheel" can be misinterpreted. For best success look at what cheap blade sharpeners use with the correct arbor size. Many saw sharpening wheels I see are 120-150grit resin bonded diamond with a rigid hub as not too flexible depending on diameter. Typical saw sharpener wheels at 100-125mm are roughly 5mm thick aluminum hub and thin out at the grinding rim. The cheap coarser electroplated type wheels can work fine for some applications, but often chip carbide and overheat brittle edges defeating the intent of sharpening.
@LetsJeep, you can overheat on both plated and resin and on cbn ones too. Any would work just fine if you don't put too much pressure cause on the plated you will easily rip the Dimonds out compared to the resin one. Not to mention tungsten carbide isn't gonna wear has fast as hss so if your not doing it daily there's no reason to get resin ones.
Forgot to add, depending on the kind of carbide, you can sharpen them with normal abrasives since they all have different resistances to them. Obviously your not gonna be using aluminum oxide to do so
I actually build something very similar to this, but on a manual setup. And I sharpened bandsaw blades using it. Took a little time for each 131.5" bandsaw blade, but I can honestly tell you, those resharpened blades cut better then when they were new. And maybe that is because manually moving each tooth into their locked position made every tooth get the proper resharpening cut. I used a Dremel tool with a diamond disk and it worked perfectly. So thumbs Up for this design and setup...
Nicely done! Just so we're clear, it can only sharpen one size blade unless you were to move the distance of the bed to the grinder, and the start-stop mechanism pusher. Speaking of which, that start-stop pusher was absolutely genius! Great work
The detent mechanism should engage on teeth that have already been sharpened, i.e. shortly after the grinding wheel. This means that you still have an angular offset for the first few teeth, but after the first sharpened tooth arrives at the notch, the angles to the grinding wheel remain identical. With your setup, you have 3/4 unsharpened teeth as an index - so you would have to let the blade grind 1 3/4 rounds. Right?
Good observation. A better solution is to index on the gullet of the teeth rather than on the carbide cutting surface. So, install a smaller diameter wheel on the indexer/switch.
Great build. Simple and smart. My only suggestion would be to account for the kerf. You could do this by adjusting the sharpening angle and sharpening every other tooth. Then flip the blade and do it again. If you ruin the kerf, your blade is way more likely to catch on your piece. Not a problem for a chop saw but very dangerous on a table or circular saw. Anyway, love the build!
I don't think you're right with these tungsten tip blades. To my eye each tip is set at the same angle, only the( secondary?) relief angle on the rear of the tips alternate.
To sharpen a blade properly, you need to do tops and faces. I generally don't recommend people attempt to grind tops at home because you can really mess up the geometry, and cutting performance. But you seem like you could figure it out. Take 300 micron off the tops, 30 from faces, for best results. You'll get about 8-12 sharpens per blade this way.
In the slide, you loast a ball. The slider are delivered with a plastic rail to enshure that the balls are not get lost. So, you sould not remove the slider from a rail without mount the dummy.. The basic material is wood. This sould be replaced by ALU or other more robust material.
A lovely job, well crafted. However I'm surprised you didn't make more use of 3D printed components - most of the small parts you made from ply would have been well suited to 3D printing.
Yup. That's called an 'escapement' mechanism. In a watch or clock this is used to control the release of mechanical energy from the main spring, taking its timing control from the balance spring assembly.
Great and well thought-out build, but given the price of a new wood blade, does it offer value for money? I don't use circular saws so I'm not sure how often they need to be replaced but here in the UK the blades appear to be only £6-£10 each
excellent engineering by all means very impressed by the ingenuity BUT the problem here is that your design will work only for blades that have straight blades, blades that are angled will be destroyed, also blades that have way more teeth than your micro switch roller can count. blade with 60, 80 or even 100 teeth will cause the roller to skip over them.
Very cool project. It'd be neat if you sold Kits so that People could build it themselves. I'd buy one if you did. You wouldn't need to include the grinder and just let folks pick their own out. The cheapest sharpener I could find with a quick search is $130 off of Amazon, but most of them cost 200+. I don't know how practical it'd be to sell kits of this though so maybe it's not worth it. Either way, nice work! Sub earned :D And that tape wrapping mechanism is pretty neat too!
The switch is only there to provide holding force with its spring loaded roller, not to be a switch. Without it, the blade would just go back and forth due to the friction in the other springy thing.
Yes, well done. Very plywoody. And sensible of you to have gone for the necessary precision where it counted but resorted to more janky methods where it didn't matter so much. Also, a drill press and a belt sander seem to make 3d printing unnecessary in many cases.
Tolle Idee, leider so wie gebaut nur einmal und auch nur mit diesem Sägeblatt zu nutzen. Alles ist verklebt und verschraubt sodass nichts einzustellen geht. Nicht einmal das bereits geschliffene Blatt geht ein zweites Mal zu schleifen ohne die Konstruktion zu ändern. Schade um die Arbeit
Sei doch nocht so ein Mießepeter. 😉 Der Winkelschleifer lässt sich mit der Halterung etwas verschieben, sieht man im Video weil die Löcher in der Halterung etwas größer gebohrt sind als die Schrauben die das Ding an der Bodenplatte festhalten. Ganz interessante Konstruktion klar nur für eine Segeblattgröße geeignet. Ist ja auch nur ein Kunstruktionsbeispiel kann man ja selber verfeinern mit Langlöchern und Schraubknöpfen oder etwas größer bauen und an verschiedene Segeblättergrößen anpassen.
Looks pretty cool but there are lots of flaws, the teeth are normally anggled slightly with alternating angles, and normally we would cut the top as well...but since this is in your shop you can sharpen more frequently...also, my dad has copd from saw sharpening for years, and most of that was wet sharpening wearing a mask, so some dust extraction would be wise
You need to sharpen only the face of the carbide, which is flat. The alternately angled tips aren't touched and are still angled until a lot of sharpening.
Removing the rail from linnear bearings is crazy work
Those bearing look like they are held in. Some cheap ones are
He lost balls… there should be no gaps and he had gaps.. however this isn’t that important here.
@@callumross406they’re not “held” in they have a plastic lip but even high dollar ones are that way and they all fall out regardless. It’s not wise to just take them off the rails without the plastic block to slide in behind it. I’ve rebuilt so many of these damn things on our robots at work because of people doing that.
@@lonewolftech There are usually some gaps between the balls as they need some play to be able to move around the corners. This is perfectly normal and doesn't impact the functionality.
@@lonewolftech i work with thk rails at work alot and have never once seen the bearings fall out if the rail is removed. Maybe thats just the brand though
This project is considerably more sophisticated than your video implies. You’ve done an amazing job of engineering and made it look simple. Good job!
The video makes it obvious that this is a substantial project.
Did anyone else freak out at 2:21 lol
A little, but I was freaking out more at 4:52, cause in the previous video he glued the board down with hot-snot!
EDIT: my bad! Not the same guy, just the same machine. Turns out this guy used stand-offs in his build!
10:50 look a little dangerous, specially at 10:56
I 100% expected the balls to fall out - it kind of confused me why they didn't, but otherwise didn't think anything of it. 😅
@@tde04014also, why not just cut a much larger slot, so that he can change disks easier? Unless he plans on just undoing the hose clamps each time.
@@tde04014 It's not dangerous. These tools operate completely smoothly. And it's like driving a car to be honest. You feel what you are doing, and once experienced it's hard to make a mistake. Edit: That's what me as a carpenter would say that use this tool every single day. All though i would probably use a wood carving disc on an angle grinder instead. And the reason these tools are so smooth is because of the centrifugal force of the spinning blade, essentially making it a stabilisator.
Carbide dust is toxic use dust extraction! Standard abrasive cut off disks aren’t made for those forces. You are squaring the grinder to the base but is that the angle of the carbide?
As long the grinder face is off from the center of the axis to the top (towards the carbide side) it should be fine, but the extracrion is deff a must
You worry about safety to much, it’s safe how no need for dust extraction 😂
@@diymaster101 a wise man once said, “At some point you have to realise safety is a waste of time” -Stockton Rush
@@jules9094 very good words.🤝
@@jules9094His dismiss of safety even took him to the bottom of the ocean. Who can claim that for himself?
Usually the kerf angle is alternating between teeth but I suppose if the results do the job then who cares! Great work. With a few developments to your design you could also make that work too! 😎
yes, though it looks like it has a compound angle (the back of the teeth is also angled) so it's fine-ish, you still get a single point of contact most of the time.
edit: it seems like some carbide saws like that don't even have a compound angle, and are just flat and rely on the top angle only, so for one of those it would be perfectly fine.
you could just give your blades to the sharpening service it dosent cost much if you have multiple blades to sharpen or if its for a shitty circ saw with cheap blades just buy new ones and yeet the old ones out
@@Salamibro you could just have everything as a service or you could learn to do it yourself.
Depends if it's a cross-cut or ripping blade. This setup would be fine for a ripping blade, but yes cross cuts alternate and this would ruin the bevels. Could fix that though by having it do every other tooth, then flip the blade over and reverse it or change the grinder angle.
Cutting edges are all about the rake and relief. This sharpening tools looks like it reduced the rake angle to zero, not good for wood or other soft materials.
Very fun project. Although that cutting wheel is for: acid resistant steel, aluminium, stainless steel, and carbon steel. It will not sharpen carbide toothed saw blades and they are not intended for side loads in application. Consider a search for "100mm Blade Sharpener for Grinding Carbide Cutter". These are diamond grit embedded in resin. The infeed would also need to be much slower with a solid repeatable tooth stop.
Any cheap diamond wheel that's thin and will fit the arbor works fine.
@@Bob_Adkins Thanks for the response Bob. "Any cheap wheel" can be misinterpreted. For best success look at what cheap blade sharpeners use with the correct arbor size. Many saw sharpening wheels I see are 120-150grit resin bonded diamond with a rigid hub as not too flexible depending on diameter. Typical saw sharpener wheels at 100-125mm are roughly 5mm thick aluminum hub and thin out at the grinding rim. The cheap coarser electroplated type wheels can work fine for some applications, but often chip carbide and overheat brittle edges defeating the intent of sharpening.
@LetsJeep, you can overheat on both plated and resin and on cbn ones too. Any would work just fine if you don't put too much pressure cause on the plated you will easily rip the Dimonds out compared to the resin one. Not to mention tungsten carbide isn't gonna wear has fast as hss so if your not doing it daily there's no reason to get resin ones.
Forgot to add, depending on the kind of carbide, you can sharpen them with normal abrasives since they all have different resistances to them. Obviously your not gonna be using aluminum oxide to do so
I actually build something very similar to this, but on a manual setup. And I sharpened bandsaw blades using it. Took a little time for each 131.5" bandsaw blade, but I can honestly tell you, those resharpened blades cut better then when they were new. And maybe that is because manually moving each tooth into their locked position made every tooth get the proper resharpening cut. I used a Dremel tool with a diamond disk and it worked perfectly. So thumbs Up for this design and setup...
Nicely done! Just so we're clear, it can only sharpen one size blade unless you were to move the distance of the bed to the grinder, and the start-stop mechanism pusher.
Speaking of which, that start-stop pusher was absolutely genius! Great work
Watch the "Twin Peaks" intro. Best saw blade sharpener example.
Then watch the rest of it..
As someone already pointed out the grinder disc is not ideal. However I really liked the clever mechanism built with limited tools
The detent mechanism should engage on teeth that have already been sharpened, i.e. shortly after the grinding wheel.
This means that you still have an angular offset for the first few teeth, but after the first sharpened tooth arrives at the notch, the angles to the grinding wheel remain identical.
With your setup, you have 3/4 unsharpened teeth as an index - so you would have to let the blade grind 1 3/4 rounds.
Right?
Good observation. A better solution is to index on the gullet of the teeth rather than on the carbide cutting surface. So, install a smaller diameter wheel on the indexer/switch.
Excellent design.
That is a winner! Nice work and great presentation. Job well done.
Id suggest using a diamond wheel for carbide and dust extraction but really nice project
Pure Genius! I'm inspired to try and make it. Thank you
Well done sir. Creative mind creates useful tools with minimal costs. Thanks for uploading this video. Best regards
This is genius because it self-centers on each step precisely.
Twin Peaks vibes for sure
Glad those 9 seconds of TV history lives rent free in someone else's brain too.
@@dougmccleanbrooding sound track is all this needs
Brilliant work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice job, truly genius
Clever little tool. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Been a long time fan of your videos and they just keep getting better and better; absolutely fantastic stuff!
You make it look so easy, thank you.
Yes, well done!
Great build. Simple and smart. My only suggestion would be to account for the kerf. You could do this by adjusting the sharpening angle and sharpening every other tooth. Then flip the blade and do it again. If you ruin the kerf, your blade is way more likely to catch on your piece. Not a problem for a chop saw but very dangerous on a table or circular saw. Anyway, love the build!
I don't think you're right with these tungsten tip blades. To my eye each tip is set at the same angle, only the( secondary?) relief angle on the rear of the tips alternate.
This is clever, no grinding sparks as well !!!!
Wow 😲😳 great job
Excellent video
Very clever design. 👍
I like these kind of stuff! Well done!
Correct sharpening should be done every other tooth with a slight angle, and it is also necessary to sharpen the back of the tooth.
CA is the real star.
Plenty good enough for any home woodwork shop.
👍
Very cool idea, well done!
Well done Creative man
Well done.
Wow amazing man!
Well done very ingenious, gives me ideas for automatic chainsaw sharpener.
Very clever chap.
Brilliant! I made a jig to sharpen saw blades, but it isn’t automated. Yours is much more elegant.
Great job 👏 a very useful device tip top sharp saw blades 👍
Capolavoro....🙏
Impressionnant du très bon travail félicitations
Very clever!
Sehr sehr stark
To sharpen a blade properly, you need to do tops and faces.
I generally don't recommend people attempt to grind tops at home because you can really mess up the geometry, and cutting performance.
But you seem like you could figure it out.
Take 300 micron off the tops, 30 from faces, for best results.
You'll get about 8-12 sharpens per blade this way.
Very well done
Very clever indeed!
Awesome!
Love this project. End up subscribing.
Thankyou
А разве все зубья точаться в одну сторону? У них же чередуется угол атаки.
Ну, подумаешь - диск сгорит... В следующий раз повезет!
Зато ноготочки как у девочки. Завидуйте, противные🤣
@@СтепанСтепанов-м4изовите доктора дью
Danke schön Meister...
Twin Peaks intro shows an entirely mechanical blade sharpener in a mill
Nice build!
Wow! Thanks.
This is epic! Subscribed
Super intelligent and useful .
Недостаток только один - не проигрывает виниловые пластинки! (Шучу!)
Would adding ca glue to the tapped wood threads increase their strength? (Prior to using them)
для заточки нужен алмазный диск .отрезным диском не точат
*twin peaks into starts to play*
Needs more close-up on the abrasive wheel hitting the blade, in slow motion, with the Twin Peaks theme song playing.
Куета, там через зуб угол заточки зеркальный. Плюс зачаивать надо минимум алмазом.
Well done 🫡
Though it'll probably be fine, you might want to consider strengthening the threaded wood holes with your favorite... (thin) CA Glue ;)
By the way, look up Twin Peaks Intro. There's a bigger sharpening machine, or actually two for different tooth shapes...
Wood! The other metal!
In the slide, you loast a ball. The slider are delivered with a plastic rail to enshure that the balls are not get lost. So, you sould not remove the slider from a rail without mount the dummy..
The basic material is wood. This sould be replaced by ALU or other more robust material.
Someone got access to the old Popular Science magazines and some ballaweeze.
A lovely job, well crafted. However I'm surprised you didn't make more use of 3D printed components - most of the small parts you made from ply would have been well suited to 3D printing.
The spring loaded mechanism 9:55 reminds me of a mechanical clock.
Yup. That's called an 'escapement' mechanism. In a watch or clock this is used to control the release of mechanical energy from the main spring, taking its timing control from the balance spring assembly.
What about the cutting face angle ?
I'd love to see you make something like this to sharpen a chainsaw blade.
Great and well thought-out build, but given the price of a new wood blade, does it offer value for money? I don't use circular saws so I'm not sure how often they need to be replaced but here in the UK the blades appear to be only £6-£10 each
You need the twin peaks intro themetune
excellent engineering by all means very impressed by the ingenuity BUT the problem here is that your design will work only for blades that have straight blades, blades that are angled will be destroyed, also blades that have way more teeth than your micro switch roller can count. blade with 60, 80 or even 100 teeth will cause the roller to skip over them.
You probably could make one that uses the chop saw in place.
Great video, you have a new subscriber!!!
using the limit switch as an index rather than for an electric signal, interesting.
Русское произношение так и прёт... 😁😁😁
Подозреваю, не русское. Русским монетизацию отключили, им перед англоязычными расстилаться не надо.
@@_MadFox, Дык, русскоговорящие не только в России живут. 😁😁😁
Very cool project. It'd be neat if you sold Kits so that People could build it themselves. I'd buy one if you did. You wouldn't need to include the grinder and just let folks pick their own out. The cheapest sharpener I could find with a quick search is $130 off of Amazon, but most of them cost 200+. I don't know how practical it'd be to sell kits of this though so maybe it's not worth it. Either way, nice work! Sub earned :D
And that tape wrapping mechanism is pretty neat too!
I was expecting the switch to do something but you didn't wire it up. Will that be something you do in another video?
The switch is only there to provide holding force with its spring loaded roller, not to be a switch. Without it, the blade would just go back and forth due to the friction in the other springy thing.
I need a pro version of this, very cool
Yes, well done. Very plywoody. And sensible of you to have gone for the necessary precision where it counted but resorted to more janky methods where it didn't matter so much. Also, a drill press and a belt sander seem to make 3d printing unnecessary in many cases.
Would work even better with a diamond wheel cutting the carbide teeth 😊
This guy should re-engineer all the over engineered products. Great job!
"Over engineering" is the result of lack of ideas for simple solutions.
Tolle Idee, leider so wie gebaut nur einmal und auch nur mit diesem Sägeblatt zu nutzen. Alles ist verklebt und verschraubt sodass nichts einzustellen geht. Nicht einmal das bereits geschliffene Blatt geht ein zweites Mal zu schleifen ohne die Konstruktion zu ändern. Schade um die Arbeit
Sei doch nocht so ein Mießepeter. 😉
Der Winkelschleifer lässt sich mit der Halterung etwas verschieben, sieht man im Video weil die Löcher in der Halterung etwas größer gebohrt sind als die Schrauben die das Ding an der Bodenplatte festhalten.
Ganz interessante Konstruktion klar nur für eine Segeblattgröße geeignet. Ist ja auch nur ein Kunstruktionsbeispiel kann man ja selber verfeinern mit Langlöchern und Schraubknöpfen oder etwas größer bauen und an verschiedene Segeblättergrößen anpassen.
The best material for the mounting hardware is Aluminum or brass not wood, it can also be machined with the same cutting tools used for wood.
Yeah but it's much more expensive and you need other tools to work with it.
@@skunkjobb The same wood tools.
E.T. approves.
did you really make threads in plywood and then put bolt inside?
Yes because its brand new blade😅
I WAS LITERALLY JUST THINKING ABOUT THIS THE OTHER DAY !!!! 😍
Looks pretty cool but there are lots of flaws, the teeth are normally anggled slightly with alternating angles, and normally we would cut the top as well...but since this is in your shop you can sharpen more frequently...also, my dad has copd from saw sharpening for years, and most of that was wet sharpening wearing a mask, so some dust extraction would be wise
You need to sharpen only the face of the carbide, which is flat. The alternately angled tips aren't touched and are still angled until a lot of sharpening.
How did it cause COPD? I need to take more precautions
@MightyGimp very fine particles getting into his lungs, his first sharpening machines used vacuums instead of wet sharpening.
No ha tocado la planitud de ningun diente .
Idea buena !!
El disco no esta correctamente colocado .
Twin Peaks vibes
A non-canadian Matthias Wandel!
pruning a thread in a tree?
Well, there goes your incompetence.
Thanks but we will continue sending ours out
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Поставь алмазный диск для керамогранита.
А этот выбрось.
За идею ПЯТЬ