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Yeah, read the directions. Work one side for a burr. Your going back and forth. Read ! I thought I'd learn from you , till you went stupid

Even your 3-year old videos are super helpful. Thanks Matt

galvanic corrosion, you cant have aluminum mounted to metal without some type of insulation in between, I cant believe engineers would even do that except knowing it will fail eventually so you have to purchase another one.

Thanks!

Wow did you save me some work! Mine was rotted in half ready to fall of the frame! Thank YOU! Have a beer on me.

What happened to the Teachable course?

A ferro rod

Ideal would be a mist of water

I have never seen someone so meticulous about mower blade sharpening. I guess that’s the difference between someone in your business and a mower shop

I started with the FPDMI no luck😢😢😢

Morning, Matt - I have earnestly considered enrolling in one of your course - however, I've got a boat-load of problems that I'm struggling through just now. It's been a very tough year. I have a bunch of challenges as well, that is - some handicaps and perhaps even my age? I'm trying to decide if I might be a good fit. I am aiming towards generating some extra income at this point with my TSPROF "Master Kit" and some miscellaneous accessories. I'm still learning, mostly by yours and others tutorials here on TH-cam. Too - I've been fascinated with everything having to do w/ sharpening tools, knives, scissors & so on since I was a youngster. It's very therapeutic, as we all know! Sure appreciate the work you put into producing these, thanks - take care...

P.S. I'm wondering about your little felt blocks that you used to carry on your website for the final burr removal? I keep forgetting to order one. Also, the ol' cork burr removal might be of some benefit?

Morning, Matt - I've been hoping you'd get around to the TSPROF. I heavily invested in their KO-3 "Master Kit," and several other accessories. I've only done a handful of knife blades, and three pairs of scissors. It's an incredibly well engineered & manufactured tool/system. I'm hoping to become proficient enough to start doing blades for some income. Really appreciate your taking the time & efforts to produce these tutorials. Thanks, and take care...

P.S. Matt...you make mention that if you were to do that blade on your Edge Pro, you'd "Be there all night." I get it - the blade needs re-profiling. Since I only have my TSPROF and no 1" x 30" what about using it (TSPROF.) with the ever-popular "Atoma 140" abrasive stone? It is said that it's excellent for re-profiling, and every time I try to order one up they are out-of-stock. Anyhow... I might at some point be able to swing a 1" x 30" from Harbor Freight, but I no longer have my shop - I'm just set up in my entry hall with my desk as my work bench, etc. ( I also repair/restore/conserve antique Connecticut clocks and American Civil War sabres, etc. ) My intentions are to only somehow generate some modest income from sharpening knives and scissors. Your thoughts, please?

Morning, Cap'n Matt - I managed to establish the "Mirror Edge" polish on my EDC Delica. Since, it's become dull as a butter knife from breaking down cardboard boxes for recycling, and I felt I'd need to put her back on my KO-3/TSPROF...but, saw my leather strop hanging nearby and decided to see what it could do for the VG-10 steel. It brought that mirror edge back in no time, and I was amazed. I'm still just learning my TSPROF, and I'd used the usual progression of the diamond abrasive stones. Then, I finished the process with the 3 micron diamond lapping film from Jende. Viola! It's a really good feeling just seeing that pretty edge whenever I use my knife. I've gotten quite alot from watching your tutorials. Your an excellent instructor, and I have actually considered joining up for some of your courses, but - have been going through some very rough waters for some time now. Perhaps in future? Thank you, Matt - take good care & God bless...

i was having those problems, shop replaced my module, now the same problem... no start with crank. when let sitting in the heat, it will start for a second, i think on fuel vapour.

MY GOD YOU COMMENTARY SUCKS, YOU ARE SO BORING. TRY TO GET YOUR DAY JOB BACK.

Hey Matt. Just discovered your channel, and love the different stuff you sharper. I am learning to be able to sharpen my own stuff, not really as a biz. However, even now I end up sharpening stuff for friends & fam. I have a cleaver similar to this one. Got it from my father, who was a meat cutter all his life. Mine is very similar, but only 8". Shape is same, but tip of mine does not curve up as much as yours. Mine's in better condition, probably because it was rarely used after about early 1970's I think. I am guessing both of them are probably from the 1940's +/-. Back in the 1960s and earlier, meat markets used to get their beef delivered as fore & hind quarters. They hung in the walk-in cooler. Meat cutters would bring one out over his shoulder and break it down by hand on the bench. The cleavers would be used to break apart the joints I think. If I remember accurately, in the mid-late 1970's that part of the processing would get done at plants, as it is now. I have a very cool sharpening rig my father got and gave to me in the early 1980s when his meat dept at a large grocery chain was being remodeled. They were throwing it out. It's an oil stone setup where the stones mount in a triangle arrangement with an axle in the middle. This sits in a metal box filled with oil. You can loosen the knobs on each end of the axle and rotate the axle, thereby rotating stones through the oil bath, and with the one you want (course, medium, fine) on top to use next. Made by Sorensen, stones are 11.5"x2.5"x.5". Thanks for the great videos!

Kudos!

Definitely interested to see how this works for you.

Nice video - I bought (7) wedges on Ebay for $23 and just wired brushed and sharpened them Next I will paint. I found an axe on the edge of a log with hammer works great to split large logs. Take care and be safe!

My sharpening method is a rigid knife blade across which I move the sharpener - this tool gives me the options

Very good video with great information! Thanks much! Looking for the reinstall video now ..

I am so glad that you did all of this. I learn from others mistakes and victories. I have been pulling my hair out with trying to figure out this problem. I even went as far as getting a remanufactured pcm brain and having it programmed to my truck. It ran perfect for 2 months after that, just lucky. It’s the same problem all over again and then i seen your video. Thank you so much. Same actual problem

Thanks for your well done video. What is the advantages / disadvantages between sharpeners like the TSPROF and an EdgePro sharpener?

I store my pencil eraser in there to clean ceramic rods and diamond plates

I had similar symptoms with my 99 f-150 and it turned out to be the relay that drives the fuel pump. In my case that relay was under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box. I started getting a lot of strange issues back in 2015 and when the truck would refuse to start after a lot of cranking and then would start no problem a few hours later I started to suspect it wasn't the pump. I also put a gauge on the fuel line and could see the pressure was zero and was not hearing the whirring noise from the tank when the key was turned to the on position but not started. but back to all the strange issues. it turns out that all the electro-mechanical things (like relays) were degrading. If the truck was in a mood and wouldn't start, I could thump that relay and like magic the truck would start on the first crank. I replaced it and haven't had an issue since. Being curious, I carefully opened the bad relay and saw how the contacts were glazed over with black deposits. After seeing that, I decided to just replace all the relays in that box. All the mystery issues have gone away now. On another note, a lot of rubber and a few other electro-mechanical things failed on me also. there is a exhaust gas valve or solenoid near the break master cylinder that had a similar issue and was throwing engine codes indicating emissions control which made my truck fail state inspections. Long story short, Ford didn't make this truck to last forever. delicate electronics and formerly robust rubber hoses start to degrade but the good news is a lot of these things are easy to get your hands on way before you try and pull the tank down which I also attempted at first but stopped short when a friend recommended looking at the fuel pressure first. that suggestion saved me so much headache and sent me down the correct and much less hassle path.

Way to go buddy! I had no idea. I’m going to check that before I do anything else 👍🫡

I love spherical washers😎 Lathes are awesome. Just used my PM lathe and Mill to make “slipakniven” style extensions for my Tormeks with 10” CBN and leather hones. The new Tormek KS123 makes things even easier! Greetings from SoCal 😎

Is it available in India?

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Keep doing these. You are very easy to understand. 🙏🏼💚

For solvent/cleaner outdoors, diesel fuel works well. Insidoors? I learned from Hobby Hardwood Alabama (has TH-cam channel), try Cotton Picker Spindle Cleaner/Detergent. It's a water-soluable oil. He uses it on his sawmill blades. I want to try it on my chainsaw chains.

I bought my Super Jolly from Sharpening Supplies too. They are helpful and their prices are good too. By the way, the Tecomec variant they sell, is made in ITALY...good stuff!

You said you use a 1/8 wheel for everything. I thought the 1/8 wheel was for 3/8 LP and .325 chain, while the 3/16 wheel is for 3/8 (.375) chain. Table in manual says either size wheel for 3/8. Your theme here was about how to set it for "everything" without changing up (and killing time). Afterall, we bought these sharpeners to achieve repeatable uniform results, in a time efficient manner. Thanks for sharing!

The angles and performance have more to do with, how hard the wood is, how fast or aggressive the cutter, and either how efficiently or fast and smooth the cut is versus longevity of the cutting edge. Practically, your experience varies basically on wood type versus chain grind, cutter profile, saw power, cutter pattern and chain type, bar length, chain speed (bar length, sproket, and saw power together), saw tuning/performance, plus environmental factors and user parameters. Even the manufacturers make "compromises" to box an all-around chain. They use grinders too that have tolerances +/-. You could adjust a little for hard or soft wood, not just the cutter, but also depth gauge/raker, but it won't be as versatile. Competitions are set under ideal condiditions to limit other factors/ variabilty. The real world has rocks, nails, wire, and other things from one stem to another.

how to you make them even????? the edge pro requires a stone that's the same thickness along its length.

Can I sharpen my d2 knives on this?

Thanks so much for your video. I will look at mine. Thanks again

Maybe your experience is different than mine, but I have found that the majority of serated knives that I get don't actually need any grinding done and I can just skip to the last step of belts along the back side and the wire wheel in the inside of the serrations

Thanks for the heads up Matt!

It doesn’t rain where I live in the desert so we have no corrosion

But, as the diameter of the abrasive wheel wears, the left cutters will be less tilt and the outer more? No. Perhaps a CBN type wheel would abate such variation. The Super Jolly has an adjustment to compensate for diameter wear, but as that is adjusted the degree markers for tilt get out of index, same reason.. My solution was to forget the tilt, set the adjustment for centering the wheel as needed, and I also switched to CBN wheels.

Most of what I have seen says you do one side of the knife until you get a burr then do the other side with the same number of passes.

I have come to the conclusion that the 10 degree drop with chisel chain is not desirable in hard wood. It seems to cut faster for a few cuts, but dulls quickly. With the Super Jolly, I do have to adjust the cutting "length" when switching from one side to the other; not much but just a bit. Otherwise the left side cutters would be a little shorter than the right ones.

Thank you so much for posting this video. You have saved me a lot of time, effort and money. Your diagnosis was spot on for my truck. I replaced that desentigrating module and it started right up and runs fine. Again, many thanks!!

If you are still servicing this account, please please consider wearing cut resistant gloves and some type of shoes. Otherwise, quite impressed.

I sure am glad you were being properly supervised....if only they stayed that young just a little longer...

TSPROF is absolutely the best of its format…

"NON-SERVICABLE" relay CAN be replaced! Bought exact replacement relay on Ebay. It was a chore pulling the fuse box out, and then taking out all of the fuses in order to open the box and expose the circuit board and relay - but in my case, it was worth the time and trouble rather than paying hundreds of dollars for a replacement fuse box! Besides, I like to fix things myself! Maybe I'll make a video!

My truck stopped running after I think someone fucked with it. Checked my spark plugs and checked my coils, all are good to go. But I'm still trying to figure out why it doesn't crack over. It acts like it wants too, but never does. Should I check the pump and fuel filter? Or do you think it could be another issue?