You perfectly explained the reason behind the "lifetime oil" claim earlier when you mentioned the cost of a replacement unit - and its (only) source. And of course any lubricant is a lifetime fill as long as you're "willing" to reduce the component's lifespan to that of the lubricant. Works out quite well for the supplier if the lubricant can keep things going just a _bit_ longer than the warranty period . . .. I bought an older car some years back that perfectly illustrated the hazards of running a transmission low on oil. It came with the original transmission - in boxes in the back of the car. The front countershaft bearing had worn to the point where balls could squeeze out of the races under load, and eventually lost enough that, combined with the mainshaft needle bearings wedging and galling from deflection, the input gear separated from the countergear enough to clash - and that was all she wrote. All 3 shafts were wiped out, countergear cluster and input gear were shredded, third output somehow also lost teeth, one of the sychro rings had split (from debris, I suppose) and the front cover had a big hole in it. Got a "good condition" replacement from a source I trusted - working pull from one of his cars - and pulled the case off just to check. And what do you know? Somehow the front counter bearing was missing a ball . . ..
As always one of the most intelligent, interesting, well spoken and knowledgeable people talking on the internet. It’s great to hear what you have to show and tell. I was waiting to see if removed the fill plug first? In my younger days, while working on a ship, I went to change oil in a gearbox on a fuel pump...... drained the oil first while fuel tanks were low, then stripped out the fill plug! Why didn’t I remove that first!!? Oh well scrambled around drilled out fill plug, refilled with oil and pumped fuel. Lesson learned- remove fill plug first.
The logic seems correct. Remove the fill plug first just in case you strip it. Then what? Not change your oil? Worry about it another time? You can get replacement plugs from BMW. Shocking it loose in the video before applying a wrench to it usually works. I have seen my share of fill/drain plugs and aluminum access plugs stripped because certified mechanics haven't developed skill levels. Thanks for watching and sharing your story.
@@GearBoxVideo Paul I have a 20 Toyota Hilux with a 6 speed I want to change the factory gear box oil to something better just to be sure whats a good choice?
Great video, Paul. Haven't seen anything from you in awhile. The whole "lifetime" fluid thing is a myth. I remember when Mercedes Benz claimed their automatic transmissions came with lifetime fluid. Well...the "lifetime" of that transmission was about 90,000 miles. At that point, the fluid was like black mud! Keep up the good work.
Great video. It was good to confirm the plug locations before I did the job. My fluid came out cleaner than yours, at 74k miles. Perhaps it had been changed before but with no history I'm happy to know it's been changed now.
Wonderful videos ,high quality footages and explanations on such a delicate part of cars that very often get neglected and cost alot to fix. thank you for all the information and advices you share! Greetings from south America 😁
Must be a German thing. For work, I bought a used German-built (Weiss) cam indexer (jig turntable) to use in a welding robot automation cell and got the same "lubed for life, do not change" line when inquiring on where to drain the oil (which was about the color of maple syrup after 17 years of use). No drain hole, our maintenance crew had to pump it out through a vent/fill hole. At least the owner's manual gave a oil capacity and oil (Shell Omala 680, 7 liters!). Still moved nice and held very good tolerances... and for the hilariously cheap price I found it for on eBay, was a massive "win" indeed.
@@GearBoxVideo Gary is correct, i watched this video start to finish and have no interest at all in BMWs or their gearboxes!! I now know a hell of a lot more about them than i ever would've if not for you, but i am more than happy to spend a bit of time learning something if the teacher knows how to deliver the subject matter.
These are some of the best videos i've seen on TH-cam, and non of the greed driven cash grab with an ad break every 2 minutes like most others do either. Top job, fantastic informationand very well explained! Do you ever do anything with the ZF6 from the 89-96 Corvettes? I have a 1993 Callaway Corvette that i have no issues with, but i will change the oil soon and after seeing your clutch release video i reckon i might swap out the master and slave cylinders at some point too, since the car rarely ever gets driven and the parts are so cheap anyway.
Awesome video! I always wanted to add some teflon to the threads of my drain plug and now i will. Very informative and great presentation and detail. Thank you!
Awesome Video, thanks for looking out for us man. I really appreciate the tips you give us! I'm Looking forward to your Tremec TKX review!!! I think I am going to choose this for my 1964 ranchero build, im waiting on the engine to be completed to drop it in!
Just a note. In verifying the correct MTF for my 2007 Z4 3.0si, it appears BMW changed to spec in March 2007. The difference being, prior production was 75w80, and post production is 75w90. I suppose the best way to verify is to see which LT version is posted on the transmission. Great video!
Nice!! All driveline components (not engine) should have their lubricant changed at 50,000 km for sure. There is a reason Hondas last longer, if you follow their lubrication change schedules. Honda maintenance schedules are about the 50k km interval for trans, transfer case and diffs... they must know something... :-) Also some of their lubricants are "Honda Oil" only so proper lube is very important ... :-)
That adage, of you, change the engine oil, why not the others. After years of warranty claims the 'Lifetime' stuff came about, from people not using the right fluids and over/underfilling or checking when cold when it is meant to be in an operating window range.
If I may, another tip is to drain oil into sterile pan and then stir it slowly with a magnet. This helps analyze if any hard parts are damaged. Obviously, some syncros flecks may show up and is considered normal wear & tear if it isn't saturating the magnet with a single stir of the oil. If it's packed after 2 or 3 stirs and cleanups, well, now you got a problem that needs further investigation. Brings back memories of more than a few Ford F-250 ZF5 transmissions that couldn't handle the 6.9 / 7.3 L diesel output with maximum load. Cost more to rebuild them than they are worth, let alone find good quality rebuild parts. On some BMW 3 series cars, they don't install engine oil dipsticks. Only a warning light to get you back into the factory dealer system. 😳🤷🏻♂️
Hello, thank you for a great video. What you think about using redline D4 and D6 ATF for these manual transmissions as redline them self recommends them please?
I only recommend what viscosity BMW used. I don't mess around with alternative oils due to the fact that the transmissions were designed to work within certain parameters. Go outside of them and you MAY destroy your transmission.
Very nice car you have Paul! I guess lifetime in BMW language means "Within the warranty period". I always change the oil on my gearboxes, on my manual Lexus IS200 6 speed (Europe / Asia model only) the difference the new oil made was like night and day, easily the best 20 bucks spent on that car. Really like your videos, keep them coming!
I changed the factory gear oil out at just 17,000 total miles to a gear box specific oil to the Toyota 6 speed It shifted fine before now it's even smoother what I used was 75-W 80 also .
Hi Paul. Love your channel. I've watched all your videos and bought your Muncie 4-speed book. I am hoping that I never have to repair my Muncie 4-speed transmission in my 1970 Corvette convertible; however, I am hoping that I am using the best fluid possible. I have changed my oil one time in my transmission with the Driven brand, GO Conventional SAE 80W-90 GL-4 Gear Oil. I was hoping that you could confirm that I am using the best oil for my transmission or maybe recommend something better. It is a low mileage car (less than 20,000 miles) and I plan to change the oil every year. Thank you for all that you do!
Good video. I have rebuilt 2 T5's using your videos and your book. Were a couple of fun projects. I would like to hear your opinion regarding the relative merits of the T5 vs the AR5.
Great video, I have 2010 Z4 with 22k on the clock. Having watched this is I think I will change the oil. I do find the shift a little notchy at times. I just changed the oil in my 1939 German tractor gearbox last night. Straight 140 oil in that. Like thick syrup. The stuff that came out was way too thin. So I hope this will make it a bit quieter as It's close the original oil which is all quoted in Engler!
I'm extremely against any lifetime oil in any component on any vehicle. Oul is my pet peave automatic trans, transfer case and differentials 50K change fliud and clean+inspect all breathers. But i overdue fluid changes. I'm a Lucas oil additive fan? Whats your opinion on that. I like it for all fluids, power steering, engine, automatic trans, differentials I've never tried a manual trans product though. Im 40 started in a shop pushing a broom when I was 18. I was in the right place at the right time. I mean I do have good work ethic. Great channel I just found it. I've done alot of clutches big, small but never opened a manual trans. Very interesting. I subscribed. I 👍🏻🇺🇲
I never found the need for additives since you asked my opinion. Use a high grade lube for whatever app you need . Why would I buy for example a Lucas Gear Lube and then have them sell me an additive to make it work better?
Bravo, Paul 👏🏻 Great advice. I own a 08 E82, since new, with the GM 6L45 6spd auto, (Made in Strasbourg France) and it too has the lifetime oil label on the underside of the transmission. I only have 72,000kms on the car but I'm not too comfortable with the lifetime oil concept on the transmission. Wondering if you have any thoughts, even though I'm talking about the automatic. Btw, kudos to your buddy Saul there. Quite the shop and quite the ride! Ciao!
Thanks for this, would love to see some more content on the BMW ZF gearboxes. We're fitting a GS6X53DZ into an old Land Rover as they're supposed to be able to withstand a lot of torque, would be interested to see the internals in more detail to see how they're built to take this power. Regards Fred
Spent about 10 years doing manuals. Have seen gearboxes come in with just enough oil so it laps the front cluster gear and they were rebuildable-nothing short of miraculous. no scuffing or discolouration, Just replace bearings and seals and off they go. This week I finished assembly of a T56. Was shocking how much force i used to fit the 1/2 hub (5 tons) and the 5/6 mainshaft gear (7 tons). Is this usual. I usually pre fit new splines to check but was supplied the wrong gear and had the rest of the box assembled in this case.
Modern automatic transmissions from some manufacturers also have the same transmission fluid for life bullshit. Which I can assume will only last 100,000 miles or less before the transmission gives warning check lights from that point on. I can't believe they used alloy hardware in alloy cases, lubrication on the threads is a must as aluminium will bind up with similar alloys.
Paul, Which transfer pump were you using to fill your transmission? The cheap ones that the auto parts stores carry are junk and I'd like to get a good one. Thanks
Any downside to using magnetic drain plugs if clearance permits, or is it unnecessary on manuals? Thank you, and welcome back! I hope you've been doing well down there.
Many transmissions have magnets clipped or bonded to the inside of the case. So a plug is not necessary. I do think it is a better idea since you can clean plugs off during oil changes. All manual transmission will have dirt in them over time since there are no filters. The problem is you will always have some gunk on the magnet and that doesn't mean somnething is failing.
Excellent video Paul. New subscriber. I am getting ready to tackle this job myself, but want to replace the plugs with new. Are they the same plug or do they have different part numbers? Thanks again for the very informative video.
Fantastic video. Very informative. I also have a z4 3.0si manual, great little cars. The time has come for a gearbox oil change i was advised to a mix of redline MTF 75w80 and redline D4 ATF. How does this sound to you?
No! Depends on your oil label. The LT-2 is the same as RedLine MTL. People who think they are petroleum engineers mixing oils are idiots. Do the right thing. Either use the specified oil from BMW or the equivalent viscosity from another vendor. Must also be Gl4 ONLY.. Concept is to change the oil for the reasons mentioned in the video.
@@GearBoxVideo i also have the yellow LT2 sticker on my gearbox. I will take your advice despite what has been said on other forums. Thank your for the advice and keep the excellent videos coming.
Loved the video Paul, glad I stumbled upon it. I do have a stupid question. When you shock the drain plugs are you hitting them in such a way to loosen them or just hitting the plug at a right angle?
Usually I shock first in and try the Torz bit. If I feel it could strip then I'll hit it in the direction of loosening it New olugs are available from BMW
Thanks for these videos Paul! I changed the fluid with OEM on the same Getrag transmission (125k miles), but 2nd is still stiff when I down shift. You mentioned in another video that the synchro teeth can become worn and partially "block" the shift due to "over indexing". Have I understood this correctly?
Great video Paul! Would like to know your opinion on using products from business such as Team ZX1 and Faher? I haven’t used them myself, but have heard good things about from a few people.
Awesome video! Very informational thanks for sharing. Quick question regarding manual BMW transmissions like these. Reverse is usually left and forward on BMWs. Does this mean the reverse gear is on its own shaft alone? What is on the other side of the shaft? In other words what would happen if you bring the gear lever to the left over the reverse shaft and pulled back instead of pushed forward?
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks for the follow up! One more question, perhaps a little odd. I love your taste in metal/rock guitar music you put in your videos :) Would you happen to have a Spotify playlist or anything you could share?
Great video . This has confirmed to me to change the gearbox oil in my 2010 Z4 3.5i Stick shift. Redline is tricky to find over in the UK so looking at the Valvoline 75w-80 GL-4 MTF . any comments ?
Great video as always Paul I love how you explain what you're doing on your car and the other transmissions you're working on but I can't understand why BMW tells you that is a lifetime oil like you even explained here no oil is ever a lifetime I think BMW along with ZF do they want to see their transmissions FAIL . What is the purpose of stating not to change the oil , keep up the great videos .
I don't know why they state that either. However I always recommend changing oil especially in manual transmissions because there are no filters. Same goes for rear axles
I'm trying to resolve a 2 nd gear notchines that is a pain in the a.. The gearbox is a 711.655 Mercedes or a A2042603200, I had already changed the oil and put a Castrol syntax 75w90 wich helped but not resolved the issue . I ve r ead that an atf oil will help alot with that but I'm not sure . Thank you for the reply .
Awesome information and video. I'm a new subscriber now. Do you know if the 2003 3.0 E85 would have the same setup and procedure for draining and filling transmission oil? I recently purchased my Z4 with 96k miles and I doubt that the transmission has ever been serviced as it is not mentioned in the Carfax report. Mine shifts a little "notchy" as well, especially between 1st and 2nd. Also, what is your opinion on removing the clutch delay valve? A lot of people swear by it but I would appreciate the opinion of a pro.
Excellent video. Do you have any thoughts on if there is a way to improve the 1->2 shift in these transmissions? I have an M2 now and had an E85 Z4M, but both use relatively similar ZF boxes. I think the M2 just has carbon synchros. Anyway, the 1->2 shift is very notchy in these and has to be done slowly or you will grind. I'm going to change the fluid, but it is already very low viscosity. They are filling these now with BMW MTF-LT-5 which cross references with Pentosin FFL-3 which is a DCT oil. It's still 75W80, but the viscosity is on the very low end of the range. Some have claimed aftermarket transmission mounts have helped but not sure I want to go there yet.
The delay valve was to decrease drivetrain shock. The valve delays on release not on apply. What I have read on looking over BMW service notes was that the pilot bearing can drag. The grease apparantly can start to solidify. BMW sells a special grease for it. Dragging pilots can give the same notchy shifts as a poorly releasing clutch.
I figured you would know - I just purchased a Z4 E85 with the SMG transmission and have seen some video's of the SMG having an oil cooler, can you tell me if my Z4 has one? I took a brief look under it and did not see one but the heat shields may be covering it. Thanks
Have watched a dozen of your uploads and they are all excellent+. Just have a question, as I am trying to learn; so I get the action between the synchronizer rings and hub/slider assemblies for engaging the gears. What I don't understand is how the speed of the input and output shafts are equalized in between shifts. If anyone can tell me how that happens, thanks.
They don't have to be. The only synchronization has to be between the actual speed gear and output shaft. If the input is used as a direct drive like a 4th gear then the same thing applies
@@GearBoxVideo Just wondering if you're still considering doing the next video you've mentioned in this comment. I also have a Z4 and I'm interested in understanding more. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great info! I also have a have an e86 3.0si and I get a rattle noise in neutral when warm, there’s no noise when the transmission is cold. Once I press the clutch the noise is completely gone. I just changed the oil with the OEM BMW oil, no change regarding the noise. I’m thinking to use a thicker oil like redline MT90, do you think this is a good idea, considering there’s no noise at all when cold? Thank you!
hi paul what rear diff oil do you recommend for 2004 z4 e85 3.0i as ive brought the gearbox oil you recommend and want to know what diff oil you use thanks good video bud
I have same 6speed on mine. I really wanted to flat tow mine but people say that input shaft has to be running to spin the pump... I have read and also you stated that these don't have pumps, so does this mean I can flat tow mine? I really wanted to just hook it up to RV and find out...
I have a 2000 M5 which has the Getrag 420g. Car has a 169k on it and the trans feels brand new. I have a habit of always double clutch rev matching my downshifts, do you think that helps longevity a lot or is it not necessary?
my 2003 Z4 isnt shifting smoothly. In fact, when starting off, I must go to 2nd gear, then to into first gear. Is this a sign of something yet to come?
Hi! I need your advice! I like to overthink and I can't sleep properly. I have 2007 E81 2.0 diesel and I bought MTF-LT-2 for my manual transmission. When I decided to change it I discovered a blue sticker on my transmission "MTF-LT-3 lifetime fluid..blah..blah.." Soo, I changed it and now I'm scared that it will damage something inside. Please, advise. Is that ok that I used MTF-LT-2 instead of MTF-LT-3 like the sticker said? What do you know? What do you think?
Have a 2004 bmw z4 with manual , under acceleration get a loud bang then jumps into neutral , usually 1st and 2nd .not sure where to start with this issue?
guys, something you don't get with 'manufacturers' lifetime. Lifetime = 5years/200 000km of life.....over that, they're not interested anymore about your car.......they want you to change your car every 5years at maximum. They don't care for anything else. Consume cars......
I have a mini Cooper that uses the same oil , being that it's also a BMW . Same crap , it says not to change the oil for the life of the car and not to change the engine oil for 10,000 lol , it's all quite ridiculous as far as I'm concerned.
Mad, these engineering decisions: let's never change the oil, and let's make the drain plug aluminium and with a hex hole. I mean, suppose you accidentally shift wrong and grind a gear. All those little filings will then circulate in the oil for a 'lifetime'?
I broke the third gear synchro ring in my 2007 Mini Cooper R 56 turbo...there are no hard parts available to rebuild that box...just seals and o-rings and such...got a used trans with 26,000 mi..new clutch...rear main...and dual mass flywheel...which I got for a deal at the Mini dealer for $ 980.00....now I drive it very carefully...cost me $ 3,600.00 to fix...thanks BMW...🤣🤣🤣...Oh yeah ...by the way ..there is no such thing as life time oil...😂😂
You perfectly explained the reason behind the "lifetime oil" claim earlier when you mentioned the cost of a replacement unit - and its (only) source.
And of course any lubricant is a lifetime fill as long as you're "willing" to reduce the component's lifespan to that of the lubricant. Works out quite well for the supplier if the lubricant can keep things going just a _bit_ longer than the warranty period . . ..
I bought an older car some years back that perfectly illustrated the hazards of running a transmission low on oil. It came with the original transmission - in boxes in the back of the car. The front countershaft bearing had worn to the point where balls could squeeze out of the races under load, and eventually lost enough that, combined with the mainshaft needle bearings wedging and galling from deflection, the input gear separated from the countergear enough to clash - and that was all she wrote. All 3 shafts were wiped out, countergear cluster and input gear were shredded, third output somehow also lost teeth, one of the sychro rings had split (from debris, I suppose) and the front cover had a big hole in it.
Got a "good condition" replacement from a source I trusted - working pull from one of his cars - and pulled the case off just to check. And what do you know? Somehow the front counter bearing was missing a ball . . ..
As always one of the most intelligent, interesting, well spoken and knowledgeable people talking on the internet. It’s great to hear what you have to show and tell. I was waiting to see if removed the fill plug first? In my younger days, while working on a ship, I went to change oil in a gearbox on a fuel pump...... drained the oil first while fuel tanks were low, then stripped out the fill plug! Why didn’t I remove that first!!? Oh well scrambled around drilled out fill plug, refilled with oil and pumped fuel.
Lesson learned- remove fill plug first.
The logic seems correct. Remove the fill plug first just in case you strip it. Then what? Not change your oil?
Worry about it another time? You can get replacement plugs from BMW. Shocking it loose in the video before applying a wrench to it usually works. I have seen my share of fill/drain plugs and aluminum access plugs stripped because certified mechanics haven't developed skill levels. Thanks for watching and sharing your story.
@@GearBoxVideo Paul I have a 20 Toyota Hilux with a 6 speed I want to change the factory gear box oil to something better just to be sure whats a good choice?
Another excellent video. Your 40 years of knowledge is much appreciated.
Thank you
Great video, Paul. Haven't seen anything from you in awhile. The whole "lifetime" fluid thing is a myth. I remember when Mercedes Benz claimed their automatic transmissions came with lifetime fluid. Well...the "lifetime" of that transmission was about 90,000 miles. At that point, the fluid was like black mud! Keep up the good work.
Great video. It was good to confirm the plug locations before I did the job. My fluid came out cleaner than yours, at 74k miles. Perhaps it had been changed before but with no history I'm happy to know it's been changed now.
Glad to know it helped
Wonderful videos ,high quality footages and explanations on such a delicate part of cars that very often get neglected and cost alot to fix.
thank you for all the information and advices you share! Greetings from south America 😁
Many thanks!
I discovered you because I watched the Eric The Car Guy trans rebuild video you made. Nice work sir.
Thanks
Must be a German thing. For work, I bought a used German-built (Weiss) cam indexer (jig turntable) to use in a welding robot automation cell and got the same "lubed for life, do not change" line when inquiring on where to drain the oil (which was about the color of maple syrup after 17 years of use). No drain hole, our maintenance crew had to pump it out through a vent/fill hole. At least the owner's manual gave a oil capacity and oil (Shell Omala 680, 7 liters!). Still moved nice and held very good tolerances... and for the hilariously cheap price I found it for on eBay, was a massive "win" indeed.
@GearBoxVideo Paul, in my opinion you are the authority on manual gearboxes. Thanks for the video and the advice.
Wow, thanks
@@GearBoxVideo Gary is correct, i watched this video start to finish and have no interest at all in BMWs or their gearboxes!! I now know a hell of a lot more about them than i ever would've if not for you, but i am more than happy to spend a bit of time learning something if the teacher knows how to deliver the subject matter.
Appreciate that. Thanks
Congratulations on your 40th year! Aloha from Hawaii.
Thank you
Excellent information, as my mechanic explained it’s no just the mileage on the car it’s also the age of the oil: keep it fresh!
100. I love your channel .. always great information and congratulations on 40 years you are the man!!
Awesome! Thank you!
These are some of the best videos i've seen on TH-cam, and non of the greed driven cash grab with an ad break every 2 minutes like most others do either. Top job, fantastic informationand very well explained!
Do you ever do anything with the ZF6 from the 89-96 Corvettes? I have a 1993 Callaway Corvette that i have no issues with, but i will change the oil soon and after seeing your clutch release video i reckon i might swap out the master and slave cylinders at some point too, since the car rarely ever gets driven and the parts are so cheap anyway.
Do the oil change and maintain good clutch components. The killer is low or dirty oil and clutch release. ZF parts are expensive.
@@GearBoxVideo Will do :) Cheers mate!
Awesome video! I always wanted to add some teflon to the threads of my drain plug and now i will. Very informative and great presentation and detail. Thank you!
Glad to see you back man, great information as always. Hope everything is going ok for you.👍
Much appreciated
Great job , thanks
Awesome Video, thanks for looking out for us man. I really appreciate the tips you give us! I'm Looking forward to your Tremec TKX review!!! I think I am going to choose this for my 1964 ranchero build, im waiting on the engine to be completed to drop it in!
Thanks. Finishing up on the TKX video
Thankyou again my friend.i love to see a pro sharing intimate knowledge with others.LUDGHUM
Another great video and you've got a nice ride there.
Thank you
The telfon tape should keep the plugs from seizing in there also... even if you didn't need them to stop leaks.
Just a note. In verifying the correct MTF for my 2007 Z4 3.0si, it appears BMW changed to spec in March 2007. The difference being, prior production was 75w80, and post production is 75w90. I suppose the best way to verify is to see which LT version is posted on the transmission.
Great video!
If its the same transmission it is a mute point. Redline MTL is what I used
Nice!! All driveline components (not engine) should have their lubricant changed at 50,000 km for sure. There is a reason Hondas last longer, if you follow their lubrication change schedules. Honda maintenance schedules are about the 50k km interval for trans, transfer case and diffs... they must know something... :-) Also some of their lubricants are "Honda Oil" only so proper lube is very important ... :-)
That adage, of you, change the engine oil, why not the others.
After years of warranty claims the 'Lifetime' stuff came about, from people not using the right fluids and over/underfilling or checking when cold when it is meant to be in an operating window range.
If I may, another tip is to drain oil into sterile pan and then stir it slowly with a magnet.
This helps analyze if any hard parts are damaged. Obviously, some syncros flecks may show up and is considered normal wear & tear if it isn't saturating the magnet with a single stir of the oil. If it's packed after 2 or 3 stirs and cleanups, well, now you got a problem that needs further investigation.
Brings back memories of more than a few Ford F-250 ZF5 transmissions that couldn't handle the 6.9 / 7.3 L diesel output with maximum load. Cost more to rebuild them than they are worth, let alone find good quality rebuild parts.
On some BMW 3 series cars, they don't install engine oil dipsticks. Only a warning light to get you back into the factory dealer system. 😳🤷🏻♂️
The whole concept is to keep it dealer only
Really enjoy your videos very informative.
Welcome back! The cheapest things you can put into a car are fas and oil. . .
Hello, thank you for a great video. What you think about using redline D4 and D6 ATF for these manual transmissions as redline them self recommends them please?
I only recommend what viscosity BMW used. I don't mess around with alternative oils due to the fact that the transmissions were designed to work within certain parameters. Go outside of them and you MAY destroy your transmission.
Very nice car you have Paul! I guess lifetime in BMW language means "Within the warranty period". I always change the oil on my gearboxes, on my manual Lexus IS200 6 speed (Europe / Asia model only) the difference the new oil made was like night and day, easily the best 20 bucks spent on that car. Really like your videos, keep them coming!
Thank you
Paul your 6 speed is clean.
I changed the factory gear oil out at just 17,000 total miles to a gear box specific oil to the Toyota 6 speed It shifted fine before now it's even smoother what I used was 75-W 80 also .
Paul I can't see any gear box filled for lifetime, what were they thinking?
Hi Paul. Love your channel. I've watched all your videos and bought your Muncie 4-speed book. I am hoping that I never have to repair my Muncie 4-speed transmission in my 1970 Corvette convertible; however, I am hoping that I am using the best fluid possible. I have changed my oil one time in my transmission with the Driven brand, GO Conventional SAE 80W-90 GL-4 Gear Oil. I was hoping that you could confirm that I am using the best oil for my transmission or maybe recommend something better. It is a low mileage car (less than 20,000 miles) and I plan to change the oil every year. Thank you for all that you do!
Thanks for watching. The Driven Oil is a great oil to use
@@GearBoxVideo Thank you!!!
Great info, thanks!!😎🙏🏽
Good video. I have rebuilt 2 T5's using your videos and your book. Were a couple of fun projects. I would like to hear your opinion regarding the relative merits of the T5 vs the AR5.
Great video, I have 2010 Z4 with 22k on the clock. Having watched this is I think I will change the oil. I do find the shift a little notchy at times. I just changed the oil in my 1939 German tractor gearbox last night. Straight 140 oil in that. Like thick syrup. The stuff that came out was way too thin. So I hope this will make it a bit quieter as It's close the original oil which is all quoted in Engler!
I'm extremely against any lifetime oil in any component on any vehicle. Oul is my pet peave automatic trans, transfer case and differentials 50K change fliud and clean+inspect all breathers. But i overdue fluid changes. I'm a Lucas oil additive fan? Whats your opinion on that. I like it for all fluids, power steering, engine, automatic trans, differentials I've never tried a manual trans product though. Im 40 started in a shop pushing a broom when I was 18. I was in the right place at the right time. I mean I do have good work ethic. Great channel I just found it. I've done alot of clutches big, small but never opened a manual trans. Very interesting. I subscribed. I 👍🏻🇺🇲
I never found the need for additives since you asked my opinion. Use a high grade lube for whatever app you need . Why would I buy for example a Lucas Gear Lube and then have them sell me an additive to make it work better?
Bravo, Paul 👏🏻
Great advice.
I own a 08 E82, since new, with the GM 6L45 6spd auto, (Made in Strasbourg France) and it too has the lifetime oil label on the underside of the transmission.
I only have 72,000kms on the car but I'm not too comfortable with the lifetime oil concept on the transmission.
Wondering if you have any thoughts, even though I'm talking about the automatic.
Btw, kudos to your buddy Saul there. Quite the shop and quite the ride!
Ciao!
Running a ZF automatic just a quart low can burn up the transmission
Thanks for this, would love to see some more content on the BMW ZF gearboxes. We're fitting a GS6X53DZ into an old Land Rover as they're supposed to be able to withstand a lot of torque, would be interested to see the internals in more detail to see how they're built to take this power. Regards Fred
I'm trying to get a few more cheap cores in that may have case damage. So they sell for parts only
Spent about 10 years doing manuals. Have seen gearboxes come in with just enough oil so it laps the front cluster gear and they were rebuildable-nothing short of miraculous. no scuffing or discolouration, Just replace bearings and seals and off they go. This week I finished assembly of a T56. Was shocking how much force i used to fit the 1/2 hub (5 tons) and the 5/6 mainshaft gear (7 tons). Is this usual. I usually pre fit new splines to check but was supplied the wrong gear and had the rest of the box assembled in this case.
Modern automatic transmissions from some manufacturers also have the same transmission fluid for life bullshit. Which I can assume will only last 100,000 miles or less before the transmission gives warning check lights from that point on. I can't believe they used alloy hardware in alloy cases, lubrication on the threads is a must as aluminium will bind up with similar alloys.
The concept is that they all have the Same thermal expansion properties because they are made of the same alloys... Until you have to remove them.
Paul, Which transfer pump were you using to fill your transmission? The cheap ones
that the auto parts stores carry are junk and I'd like to get a good one. Thanks
Find an old Alemite one. The one that was used was from the 60's
@@GearBoxVideo that old school pump was very cool.
Any downside to using magnetic drain plugs if clearance permits, or is it unnecessary on manuals?
Thank you, and welcome back! I hope you've been doing well down there.
Many transmissions have magnets clipped or bonded to the inside of the case. So a plug is not necessary. I do think it is a better idea since you can clean plugs off during oil changes. All manual transmission will have dirt in them over time since there are no filters. The problem is you will always have some gunk on the magnet and that doesn't mean somnething is failing.
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks! Yeah, a few micrograms of rubbings/gunk can look creepy. Enjoy the drive!
You're a true master!
Excellent video Paul. New subscriber. I am getting ready to tackle this job myself, but want to replace the plugs with new. Are they the same plug or do they have different part numbers? Thanks again for the very informative video.
I got my plugs from BMW parts direct I also use Northwest BMW. FCP euro also carries them
Fantastic video. Very informative. I also have a z4 3.0si manual, great little cars. The time has come for a gearbox oil change i was advised to a mix of redline MTF 75w80 and redline D4 ATF. How does this sound to you?
No! Depends on your oil label. The LT-2 is the same as RedLine MTL. People who think they are petroleum engineers mixing oils are idiots. Do the right thing. Either use the specified oil from BMW or the equivalent viscosity from another vendor. Must also be Gl4 ONLY.. Concept is to change the oil for the reasons mentioned in the video.
@@GearBoxVideo i also have the yellow LT2 sticker on my gearbox. I will take your advice despite what has been said on other forums. Thank your for the advice and keep the excellent videos coming.
Loved the video Paul, glad I stumbled upon it. I do have a stupid question. When you shock the drain plugs are you hitting them in such a way to loosen them or just hitting the plug at a right angle?
Usually I shock first in and try the Torz bit. If I feel it could strip then I'll hit it in the direction of loosening it New olugs are available from BMW
Thanks for these videos Paul!
I changed the fluid with OEM on the same Getrag transmission (125k miles), but 2nd is still stiff when I down shift. You mentioned in another video that the synchro teeth can become worn and partially "block" the shift due to "over indexing". Have I understood this correctly?
Great video Paul!
Would like to know your opinion on using products from business such as Team ZX1 and Faher?
I haven’t used them myself, but have heard good things about from a few people.
Don't know anything about those companies
Awesome video! Very informational thanks for sharing. Quick question regarding manual BMW transmissions like these. Reverse is usually left and forward on BMWs. Does this mean the reverse gear is on its own shaft alone? What is on the other side of the shaft? In other words what would happen if you bring the gear lever to the left over the reverse shaft and pulled back instead of pushed forward?
It won't move to someplace not intended in the design.
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks for the follow up! One more question, perhaps a little odd. I love your taste in metal/rock guitar music you put in your videos :) Would you happen to have a Spotify playlist or anything you could share?
My current work is drums and recording engineer on an album called snake pit therapy by Sunny Vincent. I know that is on Spotify
@@GearBoxVideo Will check it out thank you!
Great video . This has confirmed to me to change the gearbox oil in my 2010 Z4 3.5i Stick shift. Redline is tricky to find over in the UK so looking at the Valvoline 75w-80 GL-4 MTF . any comments ?
Never used it
Can skiping gears on manual damage gearbox and how often should change gearbox oil thanks
If I heard you right you said all manual trans have dirt in them? Why is that?
Nature of the transmission. Synchros produce particles that float in the oil. Any gear clash leaves particles in the oil. No filters
@@GearBoxVideo thanks for all the great content!
Thank you. Please share it
Great video as always Paul I love how you explain what you're doing on your car and the other transmissions you're working on but I can't understand why BMW tells you that is a lifetime oil like you even explained here no oil is ever a lifetime I think BMW along with ZF do they want to see their transmissions FAIL .
What is the purpose of stating not to change the oil , keep up the great videos .
I don't know why they state that either. However I always recommend changing oil especially in manual transmissions because there are no filters. Same goes for rear axles
I use a metal gear box suction gun I purchased in the 70’s for my Muncie and Axle in my 1970 Z28.
Z4 E89, best gearbox oil i have tried Redline MT-LV. Still not the best box for smooth shifts, but sig, improvement with MT-LV.
Hey nice video !! I have a question does atf work on a mercedes manual transmission? Thank you.
Depends on what the transmission calls for. You just don't start putting any oil on it
I'm trying to resolve a 2 nd gear notchines that is a pain in the a.. The gearbox is a 711.655 Mercedes or a A2042603200, I had already changed the oil and put a Castrol syntax 75w90 wich helped but not resolved the issue . I ve r ead that an atf oil will help alot with that but I'm not sure . Thank you for the reply .
Awesome information and video. I'm a new subscriber now. Do you know if the 2003 3.0 E85 would have the same setup and procedure for draining and filling transmission oil? I recently purchased my Z4 with 96k miles and I doubt that the transmission has ever been serviced as it is not mentioned in the Carfax report. Mine shifts a little "notchy" as well, especially between 1st and 2nd. Also, what is your opinion on removing the clutch delay valve? A lot of people swear by it but I would appreciate the opinion of a pro.
Yes however some Getrag and ZF boxes have different viscosity ratings.
Excellent video. Do you have any thoughts on if there is a way to improve the 1->2 shift in these transmissions? I have an M2 now and had an E85 Z4M, but both use relatively similar ZF boxes. I think the M2 just has carbon synchros. Anyway, the 1->2 shift is very notchy in these and has to be done slowly or you will grind. I'm going to change the fluid, but it is already very low viscosity. They are filling these now with BMW MTF-LT-5 which cross references with Pentosin FFL-3 which is a DCT oil. It's still 75W80, but the viscosity is on the very low end of the range. Some have claimed aftermarket transmission mounts have helped but not sure I want to go there yet.
You could try deleting your clutch delay valve.
@@jahswanson2504 Did, doesn’t help the shift. Does help clutch engagement feel though.
The delay valve was to decrease drivetrain shock. The valve delays on release not on apply. What I have read on looking over BMW service notes was that the pilot bearing can drag. The grease apparantly can start to solidify. BMW sells a special grease for it. Dragging pilots can give the same notchy shifts as a poorly releasing clutch.
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks. That's good to know as it ages. The M2 is a 2021 build and has done it since new so I am assuming it's just how they shift.
I figured you would know - I just purchased a Z4 E85 with the SMG transmission and have seen some video's of the SMG having an oil cooler, can you tell me if my Z4 has one? I took a brief look under it and did not see one but the heat shields may be covering it. Thanks
Some coolers are oart of the main radiator. I would not know
Paul your BMW was very clean underneath must be very low miles?
40k range at that time
Have watched a dozen of your uploads and they are all excellent+. Just have a question, as I am trying to learn; so I get the action between the synchronizer rings and hub/slider assemblies for engaging the gears. What I don't understand is how the speed of the input and output shafts are equalized in between shifts. If anyone can tell me how that happens, thanks.
They don't have to be. The only synchronization has to be between the actual speed gear and output shaft. If the input is used as a direct drive like a 4th gear then the same thing applies
what are your thoughts on the uuc redline 75w-140ns mixed with regular mtf 75w-90/75w-80 for single mass flywheels?
I stick to stock viscosities. I don't believe if compensating for harmonic clatter by adding a heaver weight oil.
Nice car and great video... :-)
Nice video Paul. I suspect BMW will be making more money just swapping trans more often rather than repair them?
Bmw manual transmissions are non. Service. You have to buy cores for parts. I'm working on doing a full video on these in the future
@@GearBoxVideo Just wondering if you're still considering doing the next video you've mentioned in this comment. I also have a Z4 and I'm interested in understanding more. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Yes I am when I get the cores and time
Great info!
I also have a have an e86 3.0si and I get a rattle noise in neutral when warm, there’s no noise when the transmission is cold. Once I press the clutch the noise is completely gone. I just changed the oil with the OEM BMW oil, no change regarding the noise. I’m thinking to use a thicker oil like redline MT90, do you think this is a good idea, considering there’s no noise at all when cold? Thank you!
I have this problem from time to time. I think its the dual mass flywheel springs either hanging up or getting weaker.
hi paul what rear diff oil do you recommend for 2004 z4 e85 3.0i as ive brought the gearbox oil you recommend and want to know what diff oil you use thanks good video bud
I used the Driven racing GL5 lube in my diff.
I have same 6speed on mine. I really wanted to flat tow mine but people say that input shaft has to be running to spin the pump... I have read and also you stated that these don't have pumps, so does this mean I can flat tow mine? I really wanted to just hook it up to RV and find out...
No a manual 6 speed will get destroyed flat towing it
Putting a "Lifetime Oil" sticker on a gear box? they should know I will change the factory oil out so I know what I have
in the gear box.
I have a 2000 M5 which has the Getrag 420g. Car has a 169k on it and the trans feels brand new. I have a habit of always double clutch rev matching my downshifts, do you think that helps longevity a lot or is it not necessary?
Lifetime, sure. 100k miles and it's dead. That's the life of the vehicle right? 🙃
Good job sir
Thank you
my 2003 Z4 isnt shifting smoothly. In fact, when starting off, I must go to 2nd gear, then to into first gear. Is this a sign of something yet to come?
could be poor clutch release
Surprised you didnt put magnetic plugs in it Paul.
Don't be. They are a unique thread. Maybe a simple future product. These are not standard pipe plugs threads found on most US cars.
nice home shop
Hi! I need your advice!
I like to overthink and I can't sleep properly.
I have 2007 E81 2.0 diesel and I bought MTF-LT-2 for my manual transmission.
When I decided to change it I discovered a blue sticker on my transmission "MTF-LT-3 lifetime fluid..blah..blah.." Soo, I changed it and now I'm scared that it will damage something inside. Please, advise. Is that ok that I used MTF-LT-2 instead of MTF-LT-3 like the sticker said? What do you know? What do you think?
shouldve used same spec
Today’s day.. did it give you any problem?
Have a 2004 bmw z4 with manual , under acceleration get a loud bang then jumps into neutral , usually 1st and 2nd .not sure where to start with this issue?
The "bang" is the the transmission slider getting knocked out of gear. Could be as simple as linkage bushings, bad mounts or internal
Thanks , to check the linkage bushings does exhaust and driveshaft need to be dropped?
guys, something you don't get with 'manufacturers' lifetime. Lifetime = 5years/200 000km of life.....over that, they're not interested anymore about your car.......they want you to change your car every 5years at maximum. They don't care for anything else. Consume cars......
Hi! How much fluid did you use?
You fill to the level of the fill plug. You need to start with 2 quarts
@@GearBoxVideo but you dont remember the exact amount? Manual says 1,5 quarts
I'd be interested.
BMW z4(E85) n46b20b ,6 speed (2006)
1.Motor oil type(4.25L / 5-30 LL4)
2.gear oil type ( ? ,?) liter?
3.differential oil type( ? ,?) liter?
thanks...
Thanks for posting. Did you notice any difference in shifting after fluid change?
Yes and I did mention it at the end
@@GearBoxVideo thank you. Some how I missed it.
re watch the video he talked about it ..
Although BMW advises no oil changes, ironically ZF does not. Ultimately it is BMW's prerogative as the OEM but ZF designed the boxes...
💖💖💖💖👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I have a mini Cooper that uses the same oil , being that it's also a BMW . Same crap , it says not to change the oil for the life of the car and not to change the engine oil for 10,000 lol , it's all quite ridiculous as far as I'm concerned.
some people run ATF instead of MTF ... some BMW boxes are labeled ATF some MTF ... ?! guess both work
Manual Transmission Fluid - Automatic Transmission Fluid. Whatever is specified you should use.
Mad, these engineering decisions: let's never change the oil, and let's make the drain plug aluminium and with a hex hole. I mean, suppose you accidentally shift wrong and grind a gear. All those little filings will then circulate in the oil for a 'lifetime'?
Sealed for life = good till warranty is over... :-)
I broke the third gear synchro ring in my 2007 Mini Cooper R 56 turbo...there are no hard parts available to rebuild that box...just seals and o-rings and such...got a used trans with 26,000 mi..new clutch...rear main...and dual mass flywheel...which I got for a deal at the Mini dealer for $ 980.00....now I drive it very carefully...cost me $ 3,600.00 to fix...thanks BMW...🤣🤣🤣...Oh yeah ...by the way ..there is no such thing as life time oil...😂😂