Can't believe it , 4 hours later all done . Follow this video to the letter and it worked perfectly. My motor was full of water so I Followed the instructions and cleaned it with compressed air line and WD40 and it worked. It now located in the boot. And the roof is working again. Thrilled. Thank you 👍
You are the man! Bought a low-mileage 2007 Z4 3.0i with a “bad top” and “bad power mirrors” (from your videos and others I knew the rusted top motor was a very common issue). I used these “bad parts” as a bargaining point and scored my Zed for a very good price. Following your “top motor fix and relocate” video I replaced just the motor for $104.00 and relocated it into the boot as you did. Works like new! Another common issue is the power mirror switch (it’s located right under the cup holder and any drink sweat or bump spillage drips right onto the switch shorting it out). Ordered a used one from a wrecked Z4 for $32.00 and it fixed my power side mirror issue. Now I have a low-mileage, beautiful Z4 that works properly all the way around. Thank you mate for a brilliant video - love your vids.
This is a great modifaction and the video is excellent. Just be aware that the manual roof release cabel can give you real problems (particularly removing the pump motor). This if like mine it is routed down behind some plastic panelling at the very back, which is next to impossibe to see (let alone get to). The trouble is the cable isn't long enough to reach the new location as it is. I had to take the cable off from the pump and feed it back through back under the plastic. Which can only be done once you get the cable away from the plastic plate (on the pump) by cutting the plastic, that holds the outer cable. Another thing to note is that some pump motors (mine included) are welded to the drive coupling section. So if your buying a new motor make sure you buy the correct type!!! With or without the welded drive coupling section I hope this info is of some help to someone. Thanks for the execellent video DB 192.
@@rhythminblues8 That's very hard to tell. I know my Z4 had been given a new roof some time before I brought it. So whether the cable had been re-routed when that job was done is hard to tell. You might be lucky and it's not routed that way. Just a word of warning here. The hardest part is getting motor out with the plastic casing. The plastic casing on mine was cable tied right at the rear which was really difficult to get cut/clipped . It took me nearly 6 hours to get the thing out!! But once it was out and clear the job was relatively straight forward. And I have to say well worth the effort! Best of luck.👍
Best video on the internet for this project. Good job. This is my 2nd Z4 that the motor failed on and on my first one I did the official method of removing the entire top which was 12+ hours. Using this video, I did it in 2.5 hours.
Excellent video which enabled me to fix the problem for $100 using a new motor bought from eBay. It's a little challenging to get to the pump and then open/free the housing, but I prevailed and feel so satisfied to have fixed my baby and saved a whole lot of money. Thanks for putting this together.
Thanks for sharing your excellent video. When there wasn’t a repair shop in town (other than the BMW dealer) that offered to even look at my 2006 Z4 roof issue, I found and followed your video. Getting the top off the motor/pump housing and extracting the bottom part of the bucket wasn't easy and made up 85% of the project. The rest was a snap; I reconditioned the electric motor, and the roof was operating shortly thereafter. Thank you, db192.
As others have attested, this is clearest, most instructive video on the subject. Thank you, db192!!! Two weekends of sweaty work and my 2003 Z4 3.0i convertible is back to life again! A couple of learnings from my experience: 1. The hardest part for me was getting the top of the housing off. I found the two visible zip ties (much obliged, db192, for the clearly marked pic!) and cut them without too much trouble. But after three hours of fishing around with my hands, a screwdriver, and a pry bar, and I just couldn't get the (untaped) lid to budge. Finally I wedged the pry bar against the outside (left side) of the housing top and used the side of vehicle as leverage and Voila! it popped off in one motion. I recommend this technique. Getting the bottom out was less trouble. Grab an edge of the housing with channel-lock pliers and pull hard to break that infernal last zip tie in the back at the bottom. The whole package came out (relatively) easily. Then release the various electrical and hydraulic lines from their molded channels on the bottom piece to release the hydraulic pump and motor from its watery prison. Mine was a soggy and rusty mess. NOTE: save the foam sound-proofing insulation. Wash it well and let it dry. It works well if using another container for the motor, as I did. 2. I decided to make life easier and purchase a relatively cheap ($80) new after-market motor. It had a welded-on (what's the word, flange? bracket?), the pointed-eared part that takes the two long hex-head screws to hold the motor onto the hydraulic pump. NOTE: while taking off the equivalent part that was not welded onto the OEM motor the linkage components: the metal pin, the nylon wheel, and that little metal piece that reinforces the center of the nylon wheel, came out suddenly along with some of the hydraulic fluid. My recommendation, if you face the same situation, is either to purchase a motor that does not have the flange/bracket welded on (this allows you to leave that piece and its component parts in place), or be prepared to reassemble it and replace some of the hydraulic fluid. I ended up draining the 20-year-old fluid from the pump and reservoir into a can and replacing it with OEM fluid. It was darker than the new OEM fluid, but not that bad, considering its age. 3. When these pieces (the metal linkage pin, nylon wheel, and a little metal reinforcement bar) come out, care must be taken to put them back together correctly. The little metal bar slides in through a same-sized slot on the back of the wheel (opposite the side with the holes). This is a critical part as is reinforces the half-moon hole in the wheel and gives a metal-to-metal connection to the drive shaft of the motor to prevent the nylon from wearing out. 4. The metal linkage pin slides loosely into a hole in the metal hydraulic pump wheel. It will fall out easily. My recommendation is to drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir (having fresh fluid to replace it) and stop worrying about having to hold the pump upside down to avoid losing fluid. Makes the whole process (which is already squeezed into a tight space) much easier assuming you have a pan or rags to catch the fluid. NOTE: I saw one video with great photos that shows a spring which fits around the metal pin. I suspect it functions to hold the nylon wheel firmly in place. After obsessing that I had somehow lost it (on the floor of the trunk/boot or worse, sucked into the electric motor by its magnets) I found at least one video that showed no such spring. I assume it varies by model. After a careful search, I assured myself that I had not lost a spring and subsequently found my motor works beautifully without one. 5. The metal pin needs to be in its metal hole and fit into one of the holes in the nylon wheel (whose half-moon hole is fitted on the half-moon drive shaft of the motor) while you line up the two holding bolts on the flange/bracket. I found it easiest to line everything up with one of the flange/bracket holes--metal pin, nylon hole (any of them), and flange/bracket hole all at 6 o'clock, holding them parallel to the ground and using gravity as a helper, and carefully assembling the motor onto the hydraulic pump. The first time I did this the pin apparently fell out, and while the motor was spinning away, it was not making linkage to the pump and therefore failing to lift the ragtop. NOTE: I did not have to remove or replace any O-rings in this arrangement, but have heard that in others you may need to in order to avoid double O-rings. 6. I initially planned to house my motor in a Tupperware cup and seal it with silicone caulk (per another video author's recommendation) and place it back in the now-cleaned-out drainage well. But the cup added a few inches to the total length of the pump/motor assembly and blocked the ragtop from fully retracting. So, I kept the motor in its sealed cup and relocated it, per db192's instructions, to the trunk/boot. Try and flood THAT motor, Mother Nature! 7. One benefit of the trunk relocation, BTW, is that is also further insulates the driver/passenger from the sound of the motor. Now, except for the top motor releasing the holding clamps, the entire ragtop retraction/lifting process is nearly silent. db192, you are the BEST!
Wow, perhaps the most informative, perfect and concise 'no flannel' video I've seen on youtube. Wished all videos were like this and straight to the point! Well done!
I wish I found this video earlier! Struggled to remove the roof until you showed me that the motor is accessible from the boot. Saved me so much time and effort 👌 going to tackle this unfinished job tomorrow thanks to you Also, that fact that you did this whilst fitting your camera through is pure talent👏👏 its such a tight space
Next weekend I’m diving into this. I don’t mind manually raising and lowering the hood (to be honest i very rarely ever raise it as I only drive the car on nice days), but it will be nice to have it working properly again!
Thanks. What a really well put together video. I have followed it with great success. My arms are a bit bruised from all the struggling to get the motor and housing out from a crowded spot. But still an excellent demonstration of how it all can be done which encouraged me to persist
Thank you for your feedback, it is lovely to hear that you found the video easy to follow and you managed to complete the job and save yourself some money. It’s an awkward job but very satisfying when you get the roof working again!
@@dadjujus it was a major sweat. brute force kind of worked in the end. i took the cover off the housing first. then pulled the motor out, approaching from the boot. i took the brown sludgy water out next. the bottom bucket is held in by a bracket towards the front of the car and i think you basically have to break that. i finally managed it by approaching the area from behind the drivers seat and pulling with mole grip type things. i was so pleased when it came out without breaking anything since it looked impossible for a while. good luck
Great video! No way I would have been able to do the job without it, it would have cost me a lot to get it fixed, thanks a lot!! After 6 months of the roof not working I decided to have a go at trying to access the motor from the boot. Surprisingly I was able to unhook the clip that holds the top of the case (that holds the motor inside it) using a pick tool which had a hook shape at the end. Once unclipped used a screwdriver to lift open the case from all sides. I thought at that point the motor would just lift out but this was not the case as some of the cables were being held by the cable ties at the rear of the bottom part of the case / bucket. I spent a couple of hours trying to break the cable ties etc but did not succeed. However, in the end I was able to pull out the motor enough by repositioning the cables so that it was no longer in the water and was now positioned vertically alongside the sidewall of the car. I was able to position the motor with the electrical connections towards the rear of the car so i could see them and the hydraulics towards the front of the car. Then sprayed some WD40 in the motor and bingo was able to get it started. Tested it a few times, and the roof opened and closed. Using a cable tie I secured the motor in this position to the side wall (you can thread the cable tie through the metal strip that is already there ). All in all really happy with the result as it cost me nothing apart from a little bit of time and some WD40!
There's been others but obviously this is the best, DB knows what lighting is.. all the other repair video turn black when they went into the motor section.. Also who gives negative on this.. easily the best one..
Hi, just wanted to say thank you for such a great video, I must have watched and paused it 20 times in total, but somehow, with a little bit of luck I've managed to fix my roof, I'm so chuffed, thanks again 🤟👍
Hello ,i do it and get the motor out the bucket but stil i cant pull the wiring , i think its stuck under the bucket. how i can solve it and also how i can get the bucket out. thanks
This is a very informative and and easy to follow guide. Thank you DB192 I thought the biggest hurdle was removing the motor and housing from that drain well, now I finally crossed all the hurdles along the way, especially the pin to allow manual open/close, I am now seeing fluid dripping near the left rear wheel, and tapped it up twice. Any idea who's the culprit?
Brilliant, when I get a Z4 I will make the modification before it gets wet! Thanks for the great video, much easier than I thought it would be, I may get a few scratches as you did, but it would not beat me Lol ;) Cheers :)
At 0:43 you should how to remove that plastic seam. In my car that seam doesn't come off, I tried with all kinds of prying tools and plier, nothing moves. It look like I would need to break it to remove it. Any advice?
It was as easy for me as it looked in the video, it should come off with very little effort. I just pulled on the corner and it popped off. Does your car have previous owners? Could one of them have glued it together?
Finally got it. Getting the bottom of the motor container out was tough. The little button that disables the hydraulics was stuck so that took a little while to figure out. Overall this was one of the hardest DIY projects that I have ever done.
@@db192awesome video man. Every step. Would you be able to know why my top wont come down? The emergency override latch is broken and when i press the button i hear the motor going but the top wont move or even if I tried putting the top down manually i can onñy get it to go about one 3rd of the way then it wont go any further like something is blocking it. Any ideas ? Thank you in advance
@@Tutankhamun88 I took the steel cable loose that is supposed to let you disable the hydraulics. Then I used wd 40 and pushed the button in and out until it would release and stay in the out position. Hope this helps.
Just done mine but too bad my motor can’t be repair and luckily I found an old cordless drill’s motor , I have to to do a little customize for it to work with the pump but the result is perfect, will order a new motor today in case my customized going wrong xD
The exact same thing is happening to mine I’ll be checking it out on Sunday so wish me luck hopefully the motor hasn’t gone but if it has you’ve saved me spending £800 😅
Yesterday I found an oil leakage on my garage floor near the left rear wheel, exactly where the drain hole should eject rain water coming from the electric roof housing ... and in fact electric roof was not working properly: it was necessary to manually operate it to close it. When I pushed the "close button" I could hear the electric motor running, but it was like there was not enough hydraulic pressure to lift it up. I hope it's just a pipe not fixed well that caused the fluid leakage...and maybe fixing it and refilling hydraulic fluid is sufficient to have a fully working electric roof! Now I'll follow your instructions (seem the best so far on TH-cam) and keep you and everyone reading this comment updated on my work. Since I'm removing the assembly "electric motor/hydraulic pump”, I'm also going to relocate it into the trunk.
DONE!!! I removed roof motor/hydraulic pump and relocated it in the boot (your video is very good but a 3D animation with the location of the ties would be perfect, maybe I can provide it in the future). However, I discovered that the oil leakage is not caused by the hydraulic pump or the pipes...it comes probably from the left hinge, s**t!
@@alexc.7561 Hey Alex, so did you have to replace the motor or top up the hydraulic fluid? My roof motor makes a spinning noise when I hold the close/open button. So I'm wondering if the roof motor is alright, but perhaps it doesn't have enough hydraulic fluid.
@@kashifhaque2085 hi kashif, I topped up hydraulic fluid with Febi-bilstein 02615 1L (less than 15€) and now the leakage is basically negligible.... probably the old 18yo oil was too fluid (loss of viscosity) so it penetrates the seals more. The electro-hydraulic roof operation is now working at least! However, left hinge should be replaced or restored in any case since I can hear it's not working well and maybe this is causing non-symmetrical movement of the roof with increased risk of damaging plastic components of the roof frame.
@@kashifhaque2085 it's plausible that you have the same problem I had 4 month ago. So: Relocate the motor in the trunk. Change or repair motor if it's rusted; if it's not, just buy hydraulic fluid and fill it, and try.
The motor is installed in the drainage channel where the water builds up and floods the casing. Best way to avoid it is to relocate the motor to the boot/trunk or keep the drainage tubes clear so the water flows away properly.
Excellent video! Great to see it's possible to fix this without removing the entire top. I started the process but I am unable to get the top cover off the motor housing. Mine has tape around it and I can't get it all the tape off. One thing that you were unable to show is how and when you remove two of the more difficult wire ties. Can you answer these questions for me? You were able to remove the motor when you removed the top of the motor cover without clipping the back wire tie on the housing? Which wire ties did you need to cut just to get the motor out? Was there just the two of the three that you noted with red arrows (not the third one on the back off the housing)? You removed the motor housing after you removed the motor, how did you get the back wire tie of the housing off, were you able to get your hand behind and cut or did you just pull housing until it broke? To get to the back wire tire, you needed to get the top cover off the housing to have enough room to get your hand back there to cut?
Sorry Bruce I completely missed your comments. If you are still trying to remove the roof motor then it’s best to get the top off the housing anyway you can, you don’t need to keep the housing if you are relocating the motor to the back. Once you have the motor itself out you can get to the last cable tie right at the bottom, or just pull the housing until it snaps.
Great Video, I found threading a wire cable through the hole on the bottom housing allowed me to just pull it out really easy as the cable tie snapped straight away.
This guy made it look simple. I'm not an Electrician or a Mechanic, but after watching this, I am still not a Electrician or Mechanic, ok, goodnight. I'd just pay a skillful Mechanical Electrical guy like him to do it for me.
I assure you that I am neither a mechanic or electrician too! It’s easy enough to do and will hopefully save you some 💵 by doing it yourself. The hardest bit is getting the top off the motor housing, if you try it be as forceful as you can. I spent 30 minutes trying to finesse it and about 5 minutes when I decided to use brute force.
Once I got the top off the housing and the motor out, there is a lot more room to get a pair of long nose pliers down there, grabbed it and twisted until it snapped.
Have you managed to get the tape off? If you have its then about get something long enough to pry it open, try a little crowbar or a long spanner. Just keep attached the bottom edge of the top section of the housing and eventually it will come apart. Let me know how you get on
Try getting the motor out of the housing first and get all the cables out of the way. Then give the housing a good pull to snap the cable tie. You don’t to worry about breaking the plastic housing as you won’t need it if relocating to the boot.
Don’t make the mistake of trying this. It’s no where near as simple as he makes it look. I have got the motor out of the bottom part of the container but I can’t get it loose. The lines seem to run under the bottom part. Also the part where he says he needed two hands to do part of it is BS. It’s only possible to get in one hand and you can never see what you’re doing. You may think that I may be incompetent but I have pretty good mechanical skills and this is one of the hardest things I have ever tried. I changed the whole top a VW cabrio and it was easier than this. His motor had been out before or it would have had tape on it. Some of the blame goes to BMW. Who puts an electrical part where the water drains.
It can be done, took me longer to edit the video than complete the task. I think you’re right about the motor being out before, I was pleasantly surprised that there was no tape to battle with. I did manage to get both hands in there by lying on my back in the boot and reaching above my head, it’s possible if you can fold your body up enough. You can always leave the bottom part in there if you can get the hoses free enough to pull the motor out and relocate to the boot. Failing that you can try some mole grips on the edge of the housing and give it a good tug to break free the cable ties. Persevere with it and you’ll have that drop top working ready for summer time!
Does relocating the motor to the trunk have any affect on the red release tab function for manually putting the top up and down? Does it still work like it should?
Brilliant video and very helpful commentary. The roof motor on my Z4 has failed so I might attempt to fix/replace it myself. Failing that, can I pop round to you for you to do it for me 😂 I’ll pay a decent hourly rate 😅
Thank you, glad it helped. The hardest part is getting the cable ties off but some perseverance and you’ll get it. Ask me any questions if you get stuck!
Great video, little harder to take apart but got it working after 3 years, save my self like 3000 dls. I just need to work in the relocation but for now im happy it was just a matter of replacing the motor
I have gotten to the motor housing, used goo gone and gotten the tape off. Any additional tips to getting the top of the housing off? I have been trying for a week 🤣
Thanks for the video, i wouldnt have even attempted this without it so very much appreciated!! Decided to give it a go today - started so well but now I’m stuck. Managed to get the top of the cover off, which wasn’t too bad tbh. The motor came out after a bit of wrangling but can’t break the lines free of the bottom of the cover. I can feel a cable tie near the bottom but not sure if it’s the ones holding the cables or the bottom of the cover. Can’t get anything in to cut it and it seems to keeping the cover from moving. Also there isn’t much movement to try to wrench it out with brute force. Got an endoscope coming tomorrow so hopefully that will help me get a craft knife in there. Any tips or tricks (and save the small amount of skin that’s left on my fingers)
Well done! I think I was lucky and had a worn out cable tie holding the bottom section in. Now you can get the roof working and enjoy the sunshine! Apologies for delay in replying I’ve been away on holiday.
I actually have the reverse problem....my hood won't collapse to sit flush on the parcel shelf. It sort of just sits above the locked position. Any ideas on how to fix this?
It may be the motor that latches the roof down from the front edge of the roof, or it may be that the roof isn’t folding all the way back down. Try pushing the roof down slightly when it’s folded and pushing the button, if it latches then it may be that the roof isn’t folding down all the way.
It appears on my 04 Z4 the hydraulic lines aren’t long enough to give enough slack to comfortably move the motor to the trunk, going to have to cut a window for the lines PRIOR to replacing the motor to give more leeway. Any ideas on this/was that year made with shorter hydraulic lines? Going to try this anyway.
Not sure on different years having shorter lines but there may be more cable ties that you need cut off. Have you tried feeling with your hand to see if they are snagged on something in the drainage well? Hope you get it sorted!
Some peel it off or cut with a blade, you can access the back of it from the cabin. Sit on the seat and reach past the fabric panels and you’ll be able to get at the tape from the other side. Once you have most of it off then pry the housing open, don’t worry about damaging it as you won’t need it again. I would be careful with drilling as you don’t want to damage the motor inside!
Have you topped up the hydraulic fluid? What colour does the light flash next to the roof open button? Is it orange or red? Does the roof unlatch from the windscreen?
Hello not sure about Norwich, I’m based in Reading so it’s 3 hours or so of driving. Can you try it yourself? It’s not too difficult and probably only 2 hours of work or so.
Any idea why mine might be sticking. Just a slight amount of pressure will get it to let go to retract. Doesn't seem to have any movement issues after that?
Try checking hydraulic fluid level, if you have the motor relocated to the boot it will be easy to top it up by taking out the screw on top of the reservoir and using a syringe or a steady hand to top it up.
Get a light and look through past the fabric from the cabin just behind the seat. You should be able to look straight down onto the pump and see if it’s snagging anywhere.
If you have the motor and hydraulic lines freed from the plastic house you can always try brute force, accessing from the passenger seat reaching past the inside roof fabric or if that fails it can always stay in there. I used the brute force method, those cable ties will be pretty old and brittle by now so they will break eventually
Thank you. The under cover is held in by a zip tie that you need to either cut or snap off. At 3:25 on the video I show the under cover and the broken zip tie. I managed to pull it hard and break the zip tie away or you can get some cutters with a long handle and try to reach it from inside the cabin, you can put your hand down past the roof lining to get the correct angle. Hope that helps, let me know how you get on.
I was told the motor must be facing upwards(after relocation) or it may not function properly. have you had any problems with it just sitting in there?Thanks.
Fantastic video. One question as I noticed you only replaced the motor. Would it be better to replace the whole hydro unit while the unit is removed or do you feel the motor replacement should be sufficient?
Thank you, glad it helped. I managed to get the motor working again so it was zero cost to me! Unless there is something wrong with the hydraulic pump I wouldn’t say that you need to replace it. If the pump fails at a future time at least the unit is in the boot so it will be easy to get to.
@@db192 I followed the plan and the prior owner must have started it but not moved it. The motor looks in very good shape. It is sounding normal on the first five seconds then goes to a high pitch. I’m wondering what exactly could be defective. Next step is to pop the motor off the hydraulic unit. Perhaps it needs fluid? Thanks in advance.
@@heynowjerry definitely worth topping up the hydraulic fluid, mine needed a top up recently, use a syringe to put the fluid in to avoid any mess. Does the motor spin when you press the roof open button? I had to film it whilst it was separate from the hydraulic pump then watch the video back. Or you can get someone else to press the button whilst you watch.
Hi. Im doing this but I cant pull out the motor . there is one hose attached to the black plastic in motor also the electrical cables are too short. I dont know if it's short or stuck. Please helllllllp ! 😭😭😭
You have to feel down with you hand, you will find a cable tie is holding it in. If really can’t find it try to get the motor out of the plastic unit then pull the plastic part out very hard to break the cable ties.
Have you removed any tape? If not that’s the first thing and you can get a better angle to remove it if you sit in the car and reach down past the inner lining. If the tape is off you will need a long pry bar or something similar to lever under the edge of the top cover. Don’t worry about damaging it, you won’t need it again. Once you have the motor out, you will need to pull hard on the bottom cover to snap the cable tie holding it in. There is only one and it will break eventually, just be careful of the hydraulic lines that sit underneath the bottom cover.
How do you remove the last cable tie? Your video said it’s impossible to get to it without removing the roof??? Help. I cannot get the motor out of the housing.
It’s definitely possible without taking off the roof! The motor should lift out of the housing after you have removed the first 2 cable ties. Get a light and look through past the fabric from the cabin just behind the seat. You should be able to look straight down onto the pump and see if it’s snagging anywhere.
Got the pump out, filled it up. All working but I cannot get the base cup out. There a cable tie far deep down there. But I’m so happy with working now. Relocated to the boot
@@deeniy9375 that cup can stay in there if you’re not bothered about it, we’ll don’t on getting it sorted, it’s such a good feeling having the roof down after you fixed it. It’s like a little reward for your hard work and every time you drive it.
Do you have any information on replacing the individual lift cylinders? I guess the passenger side is leaking. I haven't open it up look yet but fluid is leaking out on the ground on the passenger side.
I’m afraid that’s where my knowledge runs out, luckily mine isn’t leaking so I’ve not had to tackle that problem yet. Fingers crossed I don’t have to as I think the roof has to come off to access them.
Hey great video I got my motor to my trunk and the motor is working now, but there was no fluid in my hydraulics so i filled it up. Do you know if i have to bleed the system?
@@ColtonThompsonx does it unlatch from the edge of the windscreen? Have you checked the parcel shelf is seated properly? What colour is the light next to the button when you press it?
@DB 192 it unlatches from the windshield and the windows roll down if that’s what you mean. The parcel shelf is in correctly and the light i get is solid red when pressing the button down (i can hear the motor running) and then it’s blinking red if i stop pressing the button
@@ColtonThompsonx might be a silly question but have you manually opened or closed your roof? Could be that the little red pull cord is still in the open position
This is gold. You really should throw up a patreon for this. People would tip you. As you know this is a pretty universal problem for E85 owners. Luv and Peace.
Hope you get the job done! Getting the top off the motor housing appears to be the most difficult part. You don’t need the housing after so feel free to use brute force to open it or you’ll get frustrated with it. Let me know how you get on!
Hi, was glad to come across this video as i have the exact same problem, when pushing roof open button the windows drop down, the 2 metal latches at top of windscreen open and roof opens about half an inch then nothing, however wanted to ask in your video and on my car the motor can be heard working/rotating yet not opening the roof which you say is because the motor has failed yet i can hear it or maybe another motor working ? Great video and wanted to ask you your experience before i start taking things apart. Many Thanks Carl - Bristol UK
Glad this video has helped. If you can hear the motor still running it could be low hydraulic fluid. It’s still worth relocating the motor so you can top it up if needed and check the condition of the motor. Most people will replace the motor whilst they are doing the work but depends if you want to fork out £120 for a new one if the existing one is ok.
Thank you! The compressed air was used to force any water out of the small hard to reach areas so it can dry out quicker. Then it was hooked up to a power source with a switch to run the motor both ways to break free the corrosion.
@@db192 Thank you so much for your reply. I ended up fixing it by refilling the hydraulic fluid - opening was fine but closing was struggling. Worked like a gem, thank you so so much for your detailed video! Learned a thing or two here!
Hi guys.. In the middle of doing this..And following this Great vid.. Thanks DB 129.. One question.. Once the top housing and motor is out how do i go about taking the bottom housing out as it is tied in with cable tie which is impossible to get to to cut.. Thanks for any help 👍😎
I was able to give it a tug and snapped the cable tie, you can see at 3:22 but if you’re really struggling it doesn’t matter too much if it’s left in there.
@@db192 Thanks for the reply. Will give it another go.. Seems that the wires are stuck underneath and can not see a way to move them unless the bottom housing is removed.
@@db192After much tugging n pulling and swearing.. I did it.. But... Had to drill a hole in the bottom housing and past clothesline through.. Enough so I could stand up out side the boot and gave a big tug and the bugger came out.. Wasn't just that dreaded cable tie but also on the back was another cable tie..dunno why the extra tie was there but that was the reason why it was so hard with just using my hands.. So if anyone else has a issue with getting the lower housing out I recommend drilling smill hole and passing a clothesline or any tough string through and give it a good tug. 😎👍
@@stealthbrothers8394 sounds like you would make a great MacGyver! 😂 Glad you got it sorted, if anyone else asks for help on the bottom housing I’ll be sure to suggest your method of getting it out.
I just bought a second hand Z4. FIrst time I put the roof down automatically, it worked. When I tried to put it back up automatically, I could hear the motor 'spinning' when I held the button down but roof didnt come up. After I put it back on manually, it won't go down anymore. And, the motor makes the same spinning noise if I hold down the button. Is my motor fried?
There are 2 motor noises, the first you hear is unlatching the roof from the top of the windscreen. If you hear this motor, then you hear nothing and the roof doesn’t move, then it will be the main motor that needs removing as shown in the video. Mine did a similar thing before it broke completely. Sorry to hear you only just bought the car, hopefully you can get it working again.
@@db192 Thanks for the reply! When I push the button down to either close the roof or open it, I can hear the motor spinning on the back left. Does it mean it's fried or that there isn't enough hydraulic fluid, do you happen to know the answer?
@@kashifhaque2085 I would suggest checking the fluid level and also the manual release. If it the manual release is on or the mechanism is stuck then the hydraulic system won’t build pressure.
@@db192 gotcha! The red pin is pushed all the way in, so I'm guessing it's either the hydraulic fluid that needs a top up or the motor needs drying, doing this fix tomorrow! One thing I didn't quite understand though from the video, how did you make the motor come back to life? You mentioned a power supply of some sort?
@@kashifhaque2085 let me know how you get on with the repair. It was a mechanic friend who helped me get the motor working again. He used a device that he connected to the batter and the motor and it allowed him to run the motor both ways. Make sure the motor is completely dried out beforehand.
It’s held in at the back with one cable tie that will break if you pull hard enough. At 3:22 you will see where it is attached. It’s attached to the hydraulic lines so you can GENTLY use these to lift it out of the drainage well slightly, hopefully then you can reach the back cable tie.
@@db192 ok I will keep trying to pull it out. Also my motor isn’t wet or rusted at all the bucket is a little moist but nothing too bad. Could it still be the issue?
Can't believe it , 4 hours later all done . Follow this video to the letter and it worked perfectly. My motor was full of water so I Followed the instructions and cleaned it with compressed air line and WD40 and it worked. It now located in the boot. And the roof is working again. Thrilled. Thank you 👍
Awesome to hear! Saved yourself a lot of money getting the motor working again too. Go and take a drive with the roof down, you’ve earned it!
Absolute brilliant video. The voiceover, the instructions, the simplicity. Brilliant, thank-you!
You’re very welcome
Followed this video this weekend .. went from broken motor to fully working relocated motor .. excellent step by video... thanks for posting
You’re very welcome, glad it helped you out!
You are the man! Bought a low-mileage 2007 Z4 3.0i with a “bad top” and “bad power mirrors” (from your videos and others I knew the rusted top motor was a very common issue).
I used these “bad parts” as a bargaining point and scored my Zed for a very good price.
Following your “top motor fix and relocate” video I replaced just the motor for $104.00 and relocated it into the boot as you did. Works like new!
Another common issue is the power mirror switch (it’s located right under the cup holder and any drink sweat or bump spillage drips right onto the switch shorting it out).
Ordered a used one from a wrecked Z4 for $32.00 and it fixed my power side mirror issue.
Now I have a low-mileage, beautiful Z4 that works properly all the way around.
Thank you mate for a brilliant video - love your vids.
Thank you so much for your comments, it’s great to hear you enjoy my videos and they have helped you save some $$$. Enjoy your Z4!
@@db192 👍🏽
This is a great modifaction and the video is excellent. Just be aware that the manual roof release cabel can give you real problems (particularly removing the pump motor). This if like mine it is routed down behind some plastic panelling at the very back, which is next to impossibe to see (let alone get to). The trouble is the cable isn't long enough to reach the new location as it is. I had to take the cable off from the pump and feed it back through back under the plastic. Which can only be done once you get the cable away from the plastic plate (on the pump) by cutting the plastic, that holds the outer cable.
Another thing to note is that some pump motors (mine included) are welded to the drive coupling section. So if your buying a new motor make sure you buy the correct type!!! With or without the welded drive coupling section
I hope this info is of some help to someone. Thanks for the execellent video DB 192.
Thanks for the additional information.
Thanks for the heads up.. I’ll try to repair my motor first if it still not work I’ll buy a new one
Do you think the manual cable location is year or continent dependent?
@@rhythminblues8 That's very hard to tell. I know my Z4 had been given a new roof some time before I brought it. So whether the cable had been re-routed when that job was done is hard to tell. You might be lucky and it's not routed that way. Just a word of warning here. The hardest part is getting motor out with the plastic casing. The plastic casing on mine was cable tied right at the rear which was really difficult to get cut/clipped . It took me nearly 6 hours to get the thing out!! But once it was out and clear the job was relatively straight forward. And I have to say well worth the effort! Best of luck.👍
Best video on the internet for this project. Good job. This is my 2nd Z4 that the motor failed on and on my first one I did the official method of removing the entire top which was 12+ hours. Using this video, I did it in 2.5 hours.
Glad it helped!
Hey I’m a David with a z4 too! Same issue 🤦♂️
Excellent video which enabled me to fix the problem for $100 using a new motor bought from eBay. It's a little challenging to get to the pump and then open/free the housing, but I prevailed and feel so satisfied to have fixed my baby and saved a whole lot of money. Thanks for putting this together.
Thank you! I’m glad you were able to save yourself some 💵💵💵
Thanks for sharing your excellent video. When there wasn’t a repair shop in town (other than the BMW dealer) that offered to even look at my 2006 Z4 roof issue, I found and followed your video. Getting the top off the motor/pump housing and extracting the bottom part of the bucket wasn't easy and made up 85% of the project. The rest was a snap; I reconditioned the electric motor, and the roof was operating shortly thereafter. Thank you, db192.
You’re very welcome, glad you managed to get your roof working again. It’s always nice to hear that this video is helpful to people.
As others have attested, this is clearest, most instructive video on the subject. Thank you, db192!!! Two weekends of sweaty work and my 2003 Z4 3.0i convertible is back to life again!
A couple of learnings from my experience:
1. The hardest part for me was getting the top of the housing off. I found the two visible zip ties (much obliged, db192, for the clearly marked pic!) and cut them without too much trouble. But after three hours of fishing around with my hands, a screwdriver, and a pry bar, and I just couldn't get the (untaped) lid to budge. Finally I wedged the pry bar against the outside (left side) of the housing top and used the side of vehicle as leverage and Voila! it popped off in one motion. I recommend this technique. Getting the bottom out was less trouble. Grab an edge of the housing with channel-lock pliers and pull hard to break that infernal last zip tie in the back at the bottom. The whole package came out (relatively) easily. Then release the various electrical and hydraulic lines from their molded channels on the bottom piece to release the hydraulic pump and motor from its watery prison. Mine was a soggy and rusty mess. NOTE: save the foam sound-proofing insulation. Wash it well and let it dry. It works well if using another container for the motor, as I did.
2. I decided to make life easier and purchase a relatively cheap ($80) new after-market motor. It had a welded-on (what's the word, flange? bracket?), the pointed-eared part that takes the two long hex-head screws to hold the motor onto the hydraulic pump. NOTE: while taking off the equivalent part that was not welded onto the OEM motor the linkage components: the metal pin, the nylon wheel, and that little metal piece that reinforces the center of the nylon wheel, came out suddenly along with some of the hydraulic fluid. My recommendation, if you face the same situation, is either to purchase a motor that does not have the flange/bracket welded on (this allows you to leave that piece and its component parts in place), or be prepared to reassemble it and replace some of the hydraulic fluid. I ended up draining the 20-year-old fluid from the pump and reservoir into a can and replacing it with OEM fluid. It was darker than the new OEM fluid, but not that bad, considering its age.
3. When these pieces (the metal linkage pin, nylon wheel, and a little metal reinforcement bar) come out, care must be taken to put them back together correctly. The little metal bar slides in through a same-sized slot on the back of the wheel (opposite the side with the holes). This is a critical part as is reinforces the half-moon hole in the wheel and gives a metal-to-metal connection to the drive shaft of the motor to prevent the nylon from wearing out.
4. The metal linkage pin slides loosely into a hole in the metal hydraulic pump wheel. It will fall out easily. My recommendation is to drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir (having fresh fluid to replace it) and stop worrying about having to hold the pump upside down to avoid losing fluid. Makes the whole process (which is already squeezed into a tight space) much easier assuming you have a pan or rags to catch the fluid. NOTE: I saw one video with great photos that shows a spring which fits around the metal pin. I suspect it functions to hold the nylon wheel firmly in place. After obsessing that I had somehow lost it (on the floor of the trunk/boot or worse, sucked into the electric motor by its magnets) I found at least one video that showed no such spring. I assume it varies by model. After a careful search, I assured myself that I had not lost a spring and subsequently found my motor works beautifully without one.
5. The metal pin needs to be in its metal hole and fit into one of the holes in the nylon wheel (whose half-moon hole is fitted on the half-moon drive shaft of the motor) while you line up the two holding bolts on the flange/bracket. I found it easiest to line everything up with one of the flange/bracket holes--metal pin, nylon hole (any of them), and flange/bracket hole all at 6 o'clock, holding them parallel to the ground and using gravity as a helper, and carefully assembling the motor onto the hydraulic pump. The first time I did this the pin apparently fell out, and while the motor was spinning away, it was not making linkage to the pump and therefore failing to lift the ragtop. NOTE: I did not have to remove or replace any O-rings in this arrangement, but have heard that in others you may need to in order to avoid double O-rings.
6. I initially planned to house my motor in a Tupperware cup and seal it with silicone caulk (per another video author's recommendation) and place it back in the now-cleaned-out drainage well. But the cup added a few inches to the total length of the pump/motor assembly and blocked the ragtop from fully retracting. So, I kept the motor in its sealed cup and relocated it, per db192's instructions, to the trunk/boot. Try and flood THAT motor, Mother Nature!
7. One benefit of the trunk relocation, BTW, is that is also further insulates the driver/passenger from the sound of the motor. Now, except for the top motor releasing the holding clamps, the entire ragtop retraction/lifting process is nearly silent. db192, you are the BEST!
Wow, perhaps the most informative, perfect and concise 'no flannel' video I've seen on youtube. Wished all videos were like this and straight to the point! Well done!
Thank you for your lovely comment, that’s what I aim for with my videos, nice to hear that is how they are being received.
I wish I found this video earlier! Struggled to remove the roof until you showed me that the motor is accessible from the boot. Saved me so much time and effort 👌 going to tackle this unfinished job tomorrow thanks to you
Also, that fact that you did this whilst fitting your camera through is pure talent👏👏 its such a tight space
Thanks man, glad it helps.
Fantastic video, very clear and straightforward. You've given me the confidence to go for it . 10/10
Thank you for your lovely comment, I’m glad it helped, let me know how you get on!
This video is the gold standard of how to do this procedure. Well done Sir!
Thank you, that’s definitely high praise!
Next weekend I’m diving into this. I don’t mind manually raising and lowering the hood (to be honest i very rarely ever raise it as I only drive the car on nice days), but it will be nice to have it working properly again!
Thx for this, just what the doctor ordered! Gives me the confidence to tackle it myself👍
Glad I could help!
Hands down the best video on TH-cam for this! Thank you
Thank you, glad it helped you!
Amazing video showing all procedures in detail, great job !
Just explaining how to put the shelf clips back in saved me putting a hammer through the back window,thank you.👍
😂 you’re welcome, took me a little while to figure out.
Roger that! I’ve been there with other projects.
I can’t get the clips back in! Help! What helpful hints do you have?
You make this look so easy! I had a real battle getting the top off the case - found it easier from inside the car reaching over the seat.
I had a battle with the top cover too but I edited out the bit where I’m trying to get it off! 😂
This dude what thorough all the way through this video.. great job
Thanks!
Awesome video. Beautifully explained, no time wasted.
Thank you very much, I try to keep my videos as short and concise as possible. Too many DIY videos on TH-cam are twice as long as they need to be!
Brilliant vid bro, just removed my roof motor following your instructions, all is well,Awaiting new motor now, thank u 🙏
You’re very welcome, glad it helped!
Thanks. What a really well put together video. I have followed it with great success. My arms are a bit bruised from all the struggling to get the motor and housing out from a crowded spot. But still an excellent demonstration of how it all can be done which encouraged me to persist
Thank you for your feedback, it is lovely to hear that you found the video easy to follow and you managed to complete the job and save yourself some money. It’s an awkward job but very satisfying when you get the roof working again!
how did you pull out the bottom bucket? many thanks!
@@dadjujus it was a major sweat. brute force kind of worked in the end. i took the cover off the housing first. then pulled the motor out, approaching from the boot. i took the brown sludgy water out next. the bottom bucket is held in by a bracket towards the front of the car and i think you basically have to break that. i finally managed it by approaching the area from behind the drivers seat and pulling with mole grip type things. i was so pleased when it came out without breaking anything since it looked impossible for a while. good luck
@@andrewhill-smith9535 thanks much! i was able to pull the bottom out.
This is by far the best video to tackle this issue. Thank you VERY much!
You’re very welcome glad it helped
you are a genius!!! at the garage, they asked me for 600£!!
well done bro, keep it up
You’re very welcome!
Excellent video and best explanation of the failure mode and how to fix the problem fo good.
Thanks a lot.
Thank you for your comments, glad it helped!
What a cracking video. So helpful and done in a simple, easy to understand format. This summers job I think......
Thank you, glad it helped and let me know how you get on.
Great video! No way I would have been able to do the job without it, it would have cost me a lot to get it fixed, thanks a lot!!
After 6 months of the roof not working I decided to have a go at trying to access the motor from the boot. Surprisingly I was able to unhook the clip that holds the top of the case (that holds the motor inside it) using a pick tool which had a hook shape at the end. Once unclipped used a screwdriver to lift open the case from all sides. I thought at that point the motor would just lift out but this was not the case as some of the cables were being held by the cable ties at the rear of the bottom part of the case / bucket. I spent a couple of hours trying to break the cable ties etc but did not succeed. However, in the end I was able to pull out the motor enough by repositioning the cables so that it was no longer in the water and was now positioned vertically alongside the sidewall of the car. I was able to position the motor with the electrical connections towards the rear of the car so i could see them and the hydraulics towards the front of the car. Then sprayed some WD40 in the motor and bingo was able to get it started. Tested it a few times, and the roof opened and closed. Using a cable tie I secured the motor in this position to the side wall (you can thread the cable tie through the metal strip that is already there ). All in all really happy with the result as it cost me nothing apart from a little bit of time and some WD40!
Glad it helped and thank you for sharing your experience of the repair. Just in time for better weather!
This video was super helpful to understand the mechanism and troubleshoot the issue
Glad it helped!
Finally! Someone put this together. Thank you!
You are very welcome!
There's been others but obviously this is the best, DB knows what lighting is.. all the other repair video turn black when they went into the motor section.. Also who gives negative on this.. easily the best one..
Just picked up a 08 z4 and the shop that inspected it said I need to do this. Thanks for the how to.
No problem!
I just did this with my neighbor.
What a cluster !!
If you were to give me any BMW , it would be 4 sale the next day!!!
NOT A FAN.
You didn’t enjoy folding yourself up like a contortionist to get to it then! 😂
absolute best video on this topic
Hi, just wanted to say thank you for such a great video, I must have watched and paused it 20 times in total, but somehow, with a little bit of luck I've managed to fix my roof, I'm so chuffed, thanks again 🤟👍
Thanks for letting me know it helped you! Just in time for summer!
Best ever video you really help me and save me around 800 all done comon Motor damage problems just replace motor
Thank you, glad it helped save you some money and get your roof working again!
Great instructive video, will definitely try it on mine this weekend. Thank you1
You’re very welcome, let me know how you get on!
Hello ,i do it and get the motor out the bucket but stil i cant pull the wiring , i think its stuck under the bucket. how i can solve it and also how i can get the bucket out. thanks
This is a very informative and and easy to follow guide. Thank you DB192
I thought the biggest hurdle was removing the motor and housing from that drain well, now I finally crossed all the hurdles along the way, especially the pin to allow manual open/close, I am now seeing fluid dripping near the left rear wheel, and tapped it up twice. Any idea who's the culprit?
Thanks and keep up the great work! Looking forward to new Z4 content.
Brilliant, when I get a Z4 I will make the modification before it gets wet! Thanks for the great video, much easier than I thought it would be, I may get a few scratches as you did, but it would not beat me Lol ;) Cheers :)
Glad it could help!
At 0:43 you should how to remove that plastic seam. In my car that seam doesn't come off, I tried with all kinds of prying tools and plier, nothing moves. It look like I would need to break it to remove it. Any advice?
It was as easy for me as it looked in the video, it should come off with very little effort. I just pulled on the corner and it popped off. Does your car have previous owners? Could one of them have glued it together?
Finally got it. Getting the bottom of the motor container out was tough. The little button that disables the hydraulics was stuck so that took a little while to figure out. Overall this was one of the hardest DIY projects that I have ever done.
Well done! At least the roof is fixed now!
How did you solve the button/latch problem? I think im having the same issue
@@db192awesome video man. Every step. Would you be able to know why my top wont come down? The emergency override latch is broken and when i press the button i hear the motor going but the top wont move or even if I tried putting the top down manually i can onñy get it to go about one 3rd of the way then it wont go any further like something is blocking it. Any ideas ? Thank you in advance
@@Tutankhamun88 I took the steel cable loose that is supposed to let you disable the hydraulics. Then I used wd 40 and pushed the button in and out until it would release and stay in the out position. Hope this helps.
Best video for this project very detailed, this will help me a lot try to working on mine Z
Thank you much appreciated
Just done mine but too bad my motor can’t be repair and luckily I found an old cordless drill’s motor , I have to to do a little customize for it to work with the pump but the result is perfect, will order a new motor today in case my customized going wrong xD
This is the best video I have seen on how to fix the top. This is much better than taking the whole thing off.
Thank you! 👍🏼
Excellent video video if you lived in Puerto Rico I would take my car to do that job
The exact same thing is happening to mine I’ll be checking it out on Sunday so wish me luck hopefully the motor hasn’t gone but if it has you’ve saved me spending £800 😅
Glad it helped and it’s going to save you some money, let me know how you get on. Happy to help with any questions.
Thank you for this detailed walk through! You saved me hours. 🤗
Yesterday I found an oil leakage on my garage floor near the left rear wheel, exactly where the drain hole should eject rain water coming from the electric roof housing ... and in fact electric roof was not working properly: it was necessary to manually operate it to close it. When I pushed the "close button" I could hear the electric motor running, but it was like there was not enough hydraulic pressure to lift it up. I hope it's just a pipe not fixed well that caused the fluid leakage...and maybe fixing it and refilling hydraulic fluid is sufficient to have a fully working electric roof!
Now I'll follow your instructions (seem the best so far on TH-cam) and keep you and everyone reading this comment updated on my work. Since I'm removing the assembly "electric motor/hydraulic pump”, I'm also going to relocate it into the trunk.
Keep us posted, hopefully it’s a simple fix for you!
DONE!!!
I removed roof motor/hydraulic pump and relocated it in the boot (your video is very good but a 3D animation with the location of the ties would be perfect, maybe I can provide it in the future).
However, I discovered that the oil leakage is not caused by the hydraulic pump or the pipes...it comes probably from the left hinge, s**t!
@@alexc.7561 Hey Alex, so did you have to replace the motor or top up the hydraulic fluid? My roof motor makes a spinning noise when I hold the close/open button. So I'm wondering if the roof motor is alright, but perhaps it doesn't have enough hydraulic fluid.
@@kashifhaque2085 hi kashif, I topped up hydraulic fluid with Febi-bilstein 02615 1L (less than 15€) and now the leakage is basically negligible.... probably the old 18yo oil was too fluid (loss of viscosity) so it penetrates the seals more.
The electro-hydraulic roof operation is now working at least!
However, left hinge should be replaced or restored in any case since I can hear it's not working well and maybe this is causing non-symmetrical movement of the roof with increased risk of damaging plastic components of the roof frame.
@@kashifhaque2085 it's plausible that you have the same problem I had 4 month ago.
So:
Relocate the motor in the trunk.
Change or repair motor if it's rusted; if it's not, just buy hydraulic fluid and fill it, and try.
Thanks for the video. What is the main reason for why it do get soaked - and how to avoid?
The motor is installed in the drainage channel where the water builds up and floods the casing. Best way to avoid it is to relocate the motor to the boot/trunk or keep the drainage tubes clear so the water flows away properly.
Excellent video! Great to see it's possible to fix this without removing the entire top. I started the process but I am unable to get the top cover off the motor housing. Mine has tape around it and I can't get it all the tape off. One thing that you were unable to show is how and when you remove two of the more difficult wire ties. Can you answer these questions for me?
You were able to remove the motor when you removed the top of the motor cover without clipping the back wire tie on the housing?
Which wire ties did you need to cut just to get the motor out? Was there just the two of the three that you noted with red arrows (not the third one on the back off the housing)?
You removed the motor housing after you removed the motor, how did you get the back wire tie of the housing off, were you able to get your hand behind and cut or did you just pull housing until it broke? To get to the back wire tire, you needed to get the top cover off the housing to have enough room to get your hand back there to cut?
Didn't he say he clipped through them with pliers?
Sorry Bruce I completely missed your comments. If you are still trying to remove the roof motor then it’s best to get the top off the housing anyway you can, you don’t need to keep the housing if you are relocating the motor to the back. Once you have the motor itself out you can get to the last cable tie right at the bottom, or just pull the housing until it snaps.
Thanks for the additional information, I’ll keep trying to get the cover off.
Great Video, I found threading a wire cable through the hole on the bottom housing allowed me to just pull it out really easy as the cable tie snapped straight away.
This guy made it look simple.
I'm not an Electrician or a Mechanic, but after watching this, I am still not a Electrician or Mechanic, ok, goodnight.
I'd just pay a skillful Mechanical Electrical guy like him to do it for me.
I assure you that I am neither a mechanic or electrician too! It’s easy enough to do and will hopefully save you some 💵 by doing it yourself. The hardest bit is getting the top off the motor housing, if you try it be as forceful as you can. I spent 30 minutes trying to finesse it and about 5 minutes when I decided to use brute force.
@@db192 took me about 2 hours just to get the bottom of housing out even with brute force. Awful job
@@2maxmax1max those cable ties can be stubborn but I bet you’re glad you got it sorted!
@@db192 yes sirrr
Thanks to this video I was able to solve the problem! I apreciate it
You’re very welcome, glad it helped you!
Great video! How did you get to the bottom cable tie at the bottom of the case where the motor sits?
Once I got the top off the housing and the motor out, there is a lot more room to get a pair of long nose pliers down there, grabbed it and twisted until it snapped.
@@db192 great, thanks for the info!
Well done for doing it yourself! I need to do mine :(
Thanks hopefully this will help make sense of it when you do yours!
@@db192 Yeah i'm just gunna follow your steps. Really good video :)
Thanks, the best video i've seen on roof motor relocation
You’re very welcome!
Hi - Thanks for the video. However I cannot release the box that holds the motor and the cables are stuck underneath- Help!
Have you managed to get the tape off? If you have its then about get something long enough to pry it open, try a little crowbar or a long spanner. Just keep attached the bottom edge of the top section of the housing and eventually it will come apart. Let me know how you get on
I am stuck on that last cable tie on the lower rear part of the housing. Any tips? Thanks!
Try getting the motor out of the housing first and get all the cables out of the way. Then give the housing a good pull to snap the cable tie. You don’t to worry about breaking the plastic housing as you won’t need it if relocating to the boot.
@@db192 Thanks for getting back to me, worked and motor came out
Don’t make the mistake of trying this. It’s no where near as simple as he makes it look. I have got the motor out of the bottom part of the container but I can’t get it loose. The lines seem to run under the bottom part. Also the part where he says he needed two hands to do part of it is BS. It’s only possible to get in one hand and you can never see what you’re doing. You may think that I may be incompetent but I have pretty good mechanical skills and this is one of the hardest things I have ever tried. I changed the whole top a VW cabrio and it was easier than this. His motor had been out before or it would have had tape on it. Some of the blame goes to BMW. Who puts an electrical part where the water drains.
It can be done, took me longer to edit the video than complete the task. I think you’re right about the motor being out before, I was pleasantly surprised that there was no tape to battle with. I did manage to get both hands in there by lying on my back in the boot and reaching above my head, it’s possible if you can fold your body up enough. You can always leave the bottom part in there if you can get the hoses free enough to pull the motor out and relocate to the boot. Failing that you can try some mole grips on the edge of the housing and give it a good tug to break free the cable ties. Persevere with it and you’ll have that drop top working ready for summer time!
Skill issue
Good job! Can you show how to put the panel clips back in??? How can you put them in? Thanks
Which panel? The part covering the motor or the boot tray?
The part covering the motor or the tray that goes under the roof when it’s folded?
@@db192 the tray that goes under the roof when it’s folded
Does relocating the motor to the trunk have any affect on the red release tab function for manually putting the top up and down? Does it still work like it should?
The red tab should still work even with relocating the motor.
Brilliant video and very helpful commentary. The roof motor on my Z4 has failed so I might attempt to fix/replace it myself. Failing that, can I pop round to you for you to do it for me 😂 I’ll pay a decent hourly rate 😅
Thank you, glad it helped. The hardest part is getting the cable ties off but some perseverance and you’ll get it. Ask me any questions if you get stuck!
Great video, little harder to take apart but got it working after 3 years, save my self like 3000 dls. I just need to work in the relocation but for now im happy it was just a matter of replacing the motor
Glad I could help save you some money!
I have gotten to the motor housing, used goo gone and gotten the tape off. Any additional tips to getting the top of the housing off? I have been trying for a week 🤣
Thanks for the video, i wouldnt have even attempted this without it so very much appreciated!! Decided to give it a go today - started so well but now I’m stuck. Managed to get the top of the cover off, which wasn’t too bad tbh. The motor came out after a bit of wrangling but can’t break the lines free of the bottom of the cover. I can feel a cable tie near the bottom but not sure if it’s the ones holding the cables or the bottom of the cover. Can’t get anything in to cut it and it seems to keeping the cover from moving. Also there isn’t much movement to try to wrench it out with brute force. Got an endoscope coming tomorrow so hopefully that will help me get a craft knife in there. Any tips or tricks (and save the small amount of skin that’s left on my fingers)
….also, we’re you able to do everything from the boot or did you take out the plastic trim behind the passengber seat?
Solved….pair of pliers and 3 hours of pent up aggression got the lower section out. DB192, brilliant video, cheers 👍👍👍👍
Well done! I think I was lucky and had a worn out cable tie holding the bottom section in. Now you can get the roof working and enjoy the sunshine! Apologies for delay in replying I’ve been away on holiday.
excellent job sir
I actually have the reverse problem....my hood won't collapse to sit flush on the parcel shelf. It sort of just sits above the locked position. Any ideas on how to fix this?
It may be the motor that latches the roof down from the front edge of the roof, or it may be that the roof isn’t folding all the way back down. Try pushing the roof down slightly when it’s folded and pushing the button, if it latches then it may be that the roof isn’t folding down all the way.
It appears on my 04 Z4 the hydraulic lines aren’t long enough to give enough slack to comfortably move the motor to the trunk, going to have to cut a window for the lines PRIOR to replacing the motor to give more leeway. Any ideas on this/was that year made with shorter hydraulic lines? Going to try this anyway.
Not sure on different years having shorter lines but there may be more cable ties that you need cut off. Have you tried feeling with your hand to see if they are snagged on something in the drainage well? Hope you get it sorted!
How do you get tape of to get top part of housing out, could you just drill into it and break out?
Some peel it off or cut with a blade, you can access the back of it from the cabin. Sit on the seat and reach past the fabric panels and you’ll be able to get at the tape from the other side. Once you have most of it off then pry the housing open, don’t worry about damaging it as you won’t need it again. I would be careful with drilling as you don’t want to damage the motor inside!
I have followed this step by step and my motor seems to be working fine however my roof is still not working. Any ideas on what this could be ?
Have you topped up the hydraulic fluid? What colour does the light flash next to the roof open button? Is it orange or red? Does the roof unlatch from the windscreen?
Where can I do this in Norwich or nearby?
Hello not sure about Norwich, I’m based in Reading so it’s 3 hours or so of driving. Can you try it yourself? It’s not too difficult and probably only 2 hours of work or so.
Any idea why mine might be sticking. Just a slight amount of pressure will get it to let go to retract. Doesn't seem to have any movement issues after that?
Try checking hydraulic fluid level, if you have the motor relocated to the boot it will be easy to top it up by taking out the screw on top of the reservoir and using a syringe or a steady hand to top it up.
The top of my case came off easy, I clipped the two visible cable ties but can't really get the pump out very far, where am I going wrong?
Get a light and look through past the fabric from the cabin just behind the seat. You should be able to look straight down onto the pump and see if it’s snagging anywhere.
Great video but I am struggling with that last zip tie. Any tips?
If you have the motor and hydraulic lines freed from the plastic house you can always try brute force, accessing from the passenger seat reaching past the inside roof fabric or if that fails it can always stay in there. I used the brute force method, those cable ties will be pretty old and brittle by now so they will break eventually
@@db192 I got it by using a snake-camera and a pocket knife 😀
Great info, I'm working my top motor too.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the great video. I was not able to remove the under cover of the motor. How did you remove this? Is there something holding it in place?
Thank you. The under cover is held in by a zip tie that you need to either cut or snap off. At 3:25 on the video I show the under cover and the broken zip tie. I managed to pull it hard and break the zip tie away or you can get some cutters with a long handle and try to reach it from inside the cabin, you can put your hand down past the roof lining to get the correct angle. Hope that helps, let me know how you get on.
I was told the motor must be facing upwards(after relocation) or it may not function properly. have you had any problems with it just sitting in there?Thanks.
No problems at all. It is sitting upright though where I have placed it.
Was able to solve the problem and now I’m stuck on putting the lil hinges from the back of the seat! Can’t find the place to pop them in
Try to put your head through to see the slots first, then it’s easier to visualise where they are when you reach round to put in the clips.
Fantastic video. One question as I noticed you only replaced the motor. Would it be better to replace the whole hydro unit while the unit is removed or do you feel the motor replacement should be sufficient?
Thank you, glad it helped. I managed to get the motor working again so it was zero cost to me! Unless there is something wrong with the hydraulic pump I wouldn’t say that you need to replace it. If the pump fails at a future time at least the unit is in the boot so it will be easy to get to.
@@db192 I followed the plan and the prior owner must have started it but not moved it. The motor looks in very good shape. It is sounding normal on the first five seconds then goes to a high pitch. I’m wondering what exactly could be defective. Next step is to pop the motor off the hydraulic unit. Perhaps it needs fluid?
Thanks in advance.
@@heynowjerry definitely worth topping up the hydraulic fluid, mine needed a top up recently, use a syringe to put the fluid in to avoid any mess. Does the motor spin when you press the roof open button? I had to film it whilst it was separate from the hydraulic pump then watch the video back. Or you can get someone else to press the button whilst you watch.
2000€ for replace motor et wire... In France, a little bit expensive, thanks for your vidéo
….also, we’re you able to do everything from the boot or did you take out the plastic trim behind the passenger seat?
Hi. Im doing this but I cant pull out the motor . there is one hose attached to the black plastic in motor also the electrical cables are too short. I dont know if it's short or stuck. Please helllllllp ! 😭😭😭
You have to feel down with you hand, you will find a cable tie is holding it in. If really can’t find it try to get the motor out of the plastic unit then pull the plastic part out very hard to break the cable ties.
The motor cover just doesn't come out of the chamber. Any idea on how to remove it? I tried it for almost 2 hours.
Have you removed any tape? If not that’s the first thing and you can get a better angle to remove it if you sit in the car and reach down past the inner lining. If the tape is off you will need a long pry bar or something similar to lever under the edge of the top cover. Don’t worry about damaging it, you won’t need it again. Once you have the motor out, you will need to pull hard on the bottom cover to snap the cable tie holding it in. There is only one and it will break eventually, just be careful of the hydraulic lines that sit underneath the bottom cover.
How do you remove the last cable tie? Your video said it’s impossible to get to it without removing the roof??? Help. I cannot get the motor out of the housing.
It’s definitely possible without taking off the roof! The motor should lift out of the housing after you have removed the first 2 cable ties. Get a light and look through past the fabric from the cabin just behind the seat. You should be able to look straight down onto the pump and see if it’s snagging anywhere.
Got the pump out, filled it up. All working but I cannot get the base cup out. There a cable tie far deep down there. But I’m so happy with working now. Relocated to the boot
@@deeniy9375 that cup can stay in there if you’re not bothered about it, we’ll don’t on getting it sorted, it’s such a good feeling having the roof down after you fixed it. It’s like a little reward for your hard work and every time you drive it.
@@db192 yeah, im leaving it there. mos def a reward for turning myself into a human pretzel. Thanks Bud.
Do you have any information on replacing the individual lift cylinders? I guess the passenger side is leaking. I haven't open it up look yet but fluid is leaking out on the ground on the passenger side.
I’m afraid that’s where my knowledge runs out, luckily mine isn’t leaking so I’ve not had to tackle that problem yet. Fingers crossed I don’t have to as I think the roof has to come off to access them.
Hey great video I got my motor to my trunk and the motor is working now, but there was no fluid in my hydraulics so i filled it up. Do you know if i have to bleed the system?
Thanks, glad it helped you out. I don’t think you need to bleed it, as long as the motor is upright it should be fine
@@db192 Weird, I got the motor working and filled up the fluid but the top still doesn't move :/
@@ColtonThompsonx does it unlatch from the edge of the windscreen? Have you checked the parcel shelf is seated properly? What colour is the light next to the button when you press it?
@DB 192 it unlatches from the windshield and the windows roll down if that’s what you mean. The parcel shelf is in correctly and the light i get is solid red when pressing the button down (i can hear the motor running) and then it’s blinking red if i stop pressing the button
@@ColtonThompsonx might be a silly question but have you manually opened or closed your roof? Could be that the little red pull cord is still in the open position
This is gold. You really should throw up a patreon for this. People would tip you.
As you know this is a pretty universal problem for E85 owners.
Luv and Peace.
Thank you, I’m glad it helped. I have a Patreon set up, any tips are very welcome! www.patreon.com/db192?
This is going to be my weekend project as my motor doesn’t seem to work.
Hope you get the job done! Getting the top off the motor housing appears to be the most difficult part. You don’t need the housing after so feel free to use brute force to open it or you’ll get frustrated with it. Let me know how you get on!
Fantastic.
Hi, was glad to come across this video as i have the exact same problem, when pushing roof open button the windows drop down, the 2 metal latches at top of windscreen open and roof opens about half an inch then nothing, however wanted to ask in your video and on my car the motor can be heard working/rotating yet not opening the roof which you say is because the motor has failed yet i can hear it or maybe another motor working ? Great video and wanted to ask you your experience before i start taking things apart. Many Thanks Carl - Bristol UK
Glad this video has helped. If you can hear the motor still running it could be low hydraulic fluid. It’s still worth relocating the motor so you can top it up if needed and check the condition of the motor. Most people will replace the motor whilst they are doing the work but depends if you want to fork out £120 for a new one if the existing one is ok.
Great video!! Thanks🙏
You’re welcome, glad it helped!
Brilliant video - quick question how do you run compressed air through the motor to revive it?
Thank you! The compressed air was used to force any water out of the small hard to reach areas so it can dry out quicker. Then it was hooked up to a power source with a switch to run the motor both ways to break free the corrosion.
@@db192 Thank you so much for your reply. I ended up fixing it by refilling the hydraulic fluid - opening was fine but closing was struggling. Worked like a gem, thank you so so much for your detailed video! Learned a thing or two here!
@@solomoto7735 you’re very welcome!
Great job!!!! Thanks for sharing
Very good video thanks
Hi guys.. In the middle of doing this..And following this Great vid.. Thanks DB 129.. One question.. Once the top housing and motor is out how do i go about taking the bottom housing out as it is tied in with cable tie which is impossible to get to to cut.. Thanks for any help 👍😎
I was able to give it a tug and snapped the cable tie, you can see at 3:22 but if you’re really struggling it doesn’t matter too much if it’s left in there.
@@db192 Thanks for the reply. Will give it another go.. Seems that the wires are stuck underneath and can not see a way to move them unless the bottom housing is removed.
@@stealthbrothers8394 keep at it, you’ll be happy when you’re driving around in the sun with the roof down again!
@@db192After much tugging n pulling and swearing.. I did it.. But... Had to drill a hole in the bottom housing and past clothesline through.. Enough so I could stand up out side the boot and gave a big tug and the bugger came out.. Wasn't just that dreaded cable tie but also on the back was another cable tie..dunno why the extra tie was there but that was the reason why it was so hard with just using my hands.. So if anyone else has a issue with getting the lower housing out I recommend drilling smill hole and passing a clothesline or any tough string through and give it a good tug. 😎👍
@@stealthbrothers8394 sounds like you would make a great MacGyver! 😂 Glad you got it sorted, if anyone else asks for help on the bottom housing I’ll be sure to suggest your method of getting it out.
I just bought a second hand Z4. FIrst time I put the roof down automatically, it worked. When I tried to put it back up automatically, I could hear the motor 'spinning' when I held the button down but roof didnt come up. After I put it back on manually, it won't go down anymore. And, the motor makes the same spinning noise if I hold down the button. Is my motor fried?
There are 2 motor noises, the first you hear is unlatching the roof from the top of the windscreen. If you hear this motor, then you hear nothing and the roof doesn’t move, then it will be the main motor that needs removing as shown in the video. Mine did a similar thing before it broke completely. Sorry to hear you only just bought the car, hopefully you can get it working again.
@@db192 Thanks for the reply! When I push the button down to either close the roof or open it, I can hear the motor spinning on the back left. Does it mean it's fried or that there isn't enough hydraulic fluid, do you happen to know the answer?
@@kashifhaque2085 I would suggest checking the fluid level and also the manual release. If it the manual release is on or the mechanism is stuck then the hydraulic system won’t build pressure.
@@db192 gotcha! The red pin is pushed all the way in, so I'm guessing it's either the hydraulic fluid that needs a top up or the motor needs drying, doing this fix tomorrow! One thing I didn't quite understand though from the video, how did you make the motor come back to life? You mentioned a power supply of some sort?
@@kashifhaque2085 let me know how you get on with the repair. It was a mechanic friend who helped me get the motor working again. He used a device that he connected to the batter and the motor and it allowed him to run the motor both ways. Make sure the motor is completely dried out beforehand.
Thanks for this great video 😊
You’re welcome
Where is the micro switch exactly? I can't find it anywhere. Any ideas?
Which micro switch do you need to find? Is it the one for the parcel shelf?
Excellent ❤
Great video
Thanks
great vid thanks..
I can’t take the bottom of the motor housing out any tips?
It’s held in at the back with one cable tie that will break if you pull hard enough. At 3:22 you will see where it is attached. It’s attached to the hydraulic lines so you can GENTLY use these to lift it out of the drainage well slightly, hopefully then you can reach the back cable tie.
@@db192 ok I will keep trying to pull it out. Also my motor isn’t wet or rusted at all the bucket is a little moist but nothing too bad. Could it still be the issue?