i'm glad you did too! buckle up, because my ideas keep getting crazier and you can watch all the insanity unfold into plenty of train action and i'm sure a list of 'what not to do when building a model railroad' adventures!
Great vid again bud. Do you lightly file the joints at an angle using an angle file right at the joints that stick up? I've seen a video on this that worked for a guy. This would keep from roughing up the top of rail so it wouldn't get "micro dirty" so to speak🤷♂️
your concern about 'micro dirty' is a real thing and it's bad for the rail heads. that being said, the first thing i try to do is align the joiners to flatten the track joint and then secure with a small amount of solder or a shim - depending on the level of completeness of the scenery. but then i do the bad thing and file the joint at the railhead to remove any further bump - or to flatten the bump if the scenery is already too locked in. i keep the filing to the minimum and don't extend too far down the rail. immediately after, i use a CRC electronics cleaner to clean the rail and fill the micro abrasions. since the area is small and locos can easily span the filed area it does not seem to affect operation.
Looks great. The signals that you have on either side of the crossing(control point, cp) looks cool. The next set of signals depending on what you are using them for should be one sided(approach signal)
I have added distant signals on either side of the crossings. I am planning for a simplistic signal system that i was going to start this year BUT since i went into expansion mode, that's probably going to be a late '25 project now.
when i figure out what i'm going to do, i will do a track plan as it is now and what it'll be. folks have been asking for it and well, i need it now to plan everything out correctly.
thank you! i do need to do a lot of planning before that happens but i am leaning towards a modular build that might enable me to start fabrication ahead of fully knowing what i want to do with the track.
@@AlleghenyNorthern I recently changed/added to my layout as well . I planned it in modular sections. I built the sections and fit them into place with the new track configuration taken into consideration. I also use Kato Unitrack which helps makes this much easier . And can be done. You have a considerable size layout already it looks like, but I understand the reason for the change.
@@joesestito4342 it's amazing how even a larger layout suddenly runs out of space as the train collection grows... but my update is more to make the layout more operationally sound. i'm just starting to mess around with the design.
This video has some very good food for thought! I have 5 great train buddies and they have after the layout was pretty much done either modified it or ripped it down to the bench work. Like all of us we want to run trains NOW!! Just build with little or no plan, aisle width has to be considered first. On mine 30 inches was minimum. Access to utilities like panel boxes, wash machines and furnace( they don't always last forever). I use Kato unitrack on my upper layout, I solder the straight sections 3 ft. long. Found used track seems to have a bend at the ends so when I solder I use a clamped metal straight edge to make sure both jointed pieces are level. Sounds like you will have a Major change, like you said a lot of thought on just removal of upper level down to the nuts and bolt, storage of it as you modify.
when the layout was essentially a huge table on the first floor, it was real hard to get around - the one side had less than 24" of access and to reach across the almost 6' width was near impossible. when it moved into the basement i thought i had space forever - and that quickly changed and mobility was sacrificed for trackage. it was 100% about getting the trains to run ASAP and preserve as much of the original scenery as possible. i had less than a month to finish the basement, tear down the layout and relocate it before some major renovations to the house were scheduled so the build out happened way fast. but what really did the room in was the - "oh, i could just build this out here and there factor" that cramped the room. it seems odd, but building more will actually be better as a better layout to the room will result in more train layout and better access to the layout for guests. i'm thinking if i build it modular-style, i might actually be able to keep the layout operational for large periods of time during the renovation. it always seems better in my head than in application, but i'm going to think about this for a long while before i start cutting lumber.
If I'm not mistaken, Shapeway's was more of a search engine for 3D modelers. You might want to check your Shapeway receipts to see if they list who actually produced the models that you have purchased. Maybe you could find them that way!
so i have found a few of the modelers who do their own printing have moved to etsy. i did a quick, and i do mean quick - like under 10 minute google to see if there were other sites like shapeways and i haven't found one yet. i'm sure it'll pick up. they had such a huge collection of models available and then couple print them in about two week's time. i had probably about 20 models on there waiting for me to buy them. i'm going to have to rework some scenes i had planned until i can source good replacement models.
Hi C Mastracci , sounds like you have got some big plans for the layout . Lots of planning and work ahead. I received a message from Scale Trains that my Norfolk and Western and Con rail locomotives are being processed for shipment. I have kind of slowed down with my layout , because of the expansion plans for one house to another . Keeping the small layout but adding to one end didn’t want to finish it because I’ll be tearing it out. You know you can never finish a layout because you’re always changing things. Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend. 😎😎 👍
there is so much planning ahead. i'll be back in the train room this week having spent the last one surf-side. I did see ScaleTrains announce they received the models but I ordered my through a hobby shop so I'm guessing i'll receive an email from them sometime in the next week saying they're ready for shipment so that's a nice surprise to come home to. and no, a layout is never finished. if i manage to finish this one in my life time, it'll be truly amazing.
If you are not thinking about moving, I think it’s a great idea. Following along with your journey would be very interesting and educational for your future and present subscribers. Spend some of the home equity money before it’s gone! Lol
well, the other option is move and just get a bigger basement. some people decided to crash our world economy for four years so that seems a little silly right now but i'm not ruling it out either. the prospect of moving this layout is a thing of nightmares, however. i can see that being a several month process.
Hi, I have a question about couplers! I know that everyone in the US use Micro Train couplers. On my layout(n scale) I have KatoUSA locomotives running. Just bought a few stack cars from Walthers, but my locomotives are not happy with the Rapido Knuckle couplers. If there is just a small bump or a small rise they lose the cars. If they go into a corner with 2 stacks on it they want to flip over, even by slow speed. Should I use other couplers, and if yes is the answer, which one. Or do I have to swap the complete wheel sets on the cars? Greetings from The Netherlands, Bert
So, MTL couplers are definitely the baseline for function and looks in N scale. They're the standard I have adopted for my railroad because when installed correctly they're as flawless as the market offers. the issue you're having sounds like there's two issues. First, Kato couplers don't like many other couplers - it's my only complaint with Kato - their couplers just don't join well to non-Kato couplers. I'd replace them. I also don't care for Atlas' Accumate couplers. While they join better with other brands than Kato - they're shaped in a such a way they can be finicky. Lastly - the couplers Athearn used - especially their wheels - I immediately replace with MicroTrains - I don't usually give them a chance because I've had such terrible luck with them in the past. I would standardize your couplers if possible and I'd recommend MTL. Next, it sounds like your locos are tearing the cars from the tracks. This is common with large locos because when entering a curve, the locos swing wide and if the shank on the coupler is short, it forces the wheel to the outside of the curve and if it's tight enough, simply pulls the cars off the track. to help this, you have to sacrifice a small amount of realism and install a longer shank coupler. I would start with replacing the coupler on the loco and if that's still not enough play, also the coupler on the cars. If you're using the low profile metal wheels on your cars, that's also a contributing factor so try replacing them with the standard MTL wheels - they have a deeper flange and resist the side-to-side pulling from adjacent cars and locos much better. Give those a try and let me know how it goes!
received an email from one of the designers i purchased from that they closed and he was looking for alternate places to print to continue to sell. i did a bit of googling and found out they did close according to the interwebs but i have noticed the site is still up and i can still log in - so i'm not sure what's going on.
Graffiti is part of the railroad culture and it should be shown in a better light. Isn't it better seeing a funny, brightly painted train pass by rather than pass by a beautiful building defaced in your town. I don't see it as illegal, it's more a way of make something that is dirty by nature into an artist design.
unfortunately, the status of graffiti being art or vandalism isn't really up to subjective review by social media. nearly all US cities and townships view it as vandalism and if caught carry anywhere from fines, probation, or jail time associated with the act. so, as the law sees it as illegal and destructive, that makes the "artist" a criminal. it makes it no better if it's a stationary building or a moving railroad car - the person defacing the surface doesn't own the surface or the right to mark it. i'm sure you wouldn't be thrilled to be a home owner and have someone tag the siding of your house. for railroads, the tag often covers information on the car that needs to be repainted on the car either to comply with FRA requirements or for the railroad/car owner's use. that carries a cost and therefore a burden to be paid by someone for the damage.
Can't wait to see the future layout changes. I'm glad I found this channel
i'm glad you did too! buckle up, because my ideas keep getting crazier and you can watch all the insanity unfold into plenty of train action and i'm sure a list of 'what not to do when building a model railroad' adventures!
Nice new pickups…your new layout proposal made my head hurt 😂😂…
mine too! i really need to think through it before i start wildly building.
Great vid again bud.
Do you lightly file the joints at an angle using an angle file right at the joints that stick up? I've seen a video on this that worked for a guy. This would keep from roughing up the top of rail so it wouldn't get "micro dirty" so to speak🤷♂️
your concern about 'micro dirty' is a real thing and it's bad for the rail heads. that being said, the first thing i try to do is align the joiners to flatten the track joint and then secure with a small amount of solder or a shim - depending on the level of completeness of the scenery. but then i do the bad thing and file the joint at the railhead to remove any further bump - or to flatten the bump if the scenery is already too locked in. i keep the filing to the minimum and don't extend too far down the rail. immediately after, i use a CRC electronics cleaner to clean the rail and fill the micro abrasions. since the area is small and locos can easily span the filed area it does not seem to affect operation.
@@AlleghenyNorthernThanks 👍
Looks great. The signals that you have on either side of the crossing(control point, cp) looks cool. The next set of signals depending on what you are using them for should be one sided(approach signal)
I have added distant signals on either side of the crossings. I am planning for a simplistic signal system that i was going to start this year BUT since i went into expansion mode, that's probably going to be a late '25 project now.
You can never have enough scale trains locos great video
You should also do a like a track plan vid
they're beautiful models for sure.
when i figure out what i'm going to do, i will do a track plan as it is now and what it'll be. folks have been asking for it and well, i need it now to plan everything out correctly.
The layout looks great. You have so many great scenes, nicely detailed. looking forward to seeing the new changes to the layout… when it happens !
thank you! i do need to do a lot of planning before that happens but i am leaning towards a modular build that might enable me to start fabrication ahead of fully knowing what i want to do with the track.
@@AlleghenyNorthern I recently changed/added to my layout as well . I planned it in modular sections. I built the sections and fit them into place with the new track configuration taken into consideration. I also use Kato Unitrack which helps makes this much easier . And can be done. You have a considerable size layout already it looks like, but I understand the reason for the change.
@@joesestito4342 it's amazing how even a larger layout suddenly runs out of space as the train collection grows... but my update is more to make the layout more operationally sound. i'm just starting to mess around with the design.
This Month I’m gonna Work On My Wife’s Layout working On the Trackplan.
having a solid track plan prevents what i'm going through now - reworking huge sections of layout.
This video has some very good food for thought! I have 5 great train buddies and they have after the layout was pretty much done either modified it or ripped it down to the bench work. Like all of us we want to run trains NOW!! Just build with little or no plan, aisle width has to be considered first. On mine 30 inches was minimum. Access to utilities like panel boxes, wash machines and furnace( they don't always last forever). I use Kato unitrack on my upper layout, I solder the straight sections 3 ft. long. Found used track seems to have a bend at the ends so when I solder I use a clamped metal straight edge to make sure both jointed pieces are level. Sounds like you will have a Major change, like you said a lot of thought on just removal of upper level down to the nuts and bolt, storage of it as you modify.
when the layout was essentially a huge table on the first floor, it was real hard to get around - the one side had less than 24" of access and to reach across the almost 6' width was near impossible. when it moved into the basement i thought i had space forever - and that quickly changed and mobility was sacrificed for trackage. it was 100% about getting the trains to run ASAP and preserve as much of the original scenery as possible. i had less than a month to finish the basement, tear down the layout and relocate it before some major renovations to the house were scheduled so the build out happened way fast. but what really did the room in was the - "oh, i could just build this out here and there factor" that cramped the room. it seems odd, but building more will actually be better as a better layout to the room will result in more train layout and better access to the layout for guests. i'm thinking if i build it modular-style, i might actually be able to keep the layout operational for large periods of time during the renovation. it always seems better in my head than in application, but i'm going to think about this for a long while before i start cutting lumber.
If I'm not mistaken, Shapeway's was more of a search engine for 3D modelers. You might want to check your Shapeway receipts to see if they list who actually produced the models that you have purchased. Maybe you could find them that way!
so i have found a few of the modelers who do their own printing have moved to etsy. i did a quick, and i do mean quick - like under 10 minute google to see if there were other sites like shapeways and i haven't found one yet. i'm sure it'll pick up. they had such a huge collection of models available and then couple print them in about two week's time. i had probably about 20 models on there waiting for me to buy them. i'm going to have to rework some scenes i had planned until i can source good replacement models.
Hi C Mastracci , sounds like you have got some big plans for the layout . Lots of planning and work ahead. I received a message from Scale Trains that my Norfolk and Western and Con rail locomotives are being processed for shipment. I have kind of slowed down with my layout , because of the expansion plans for one house to another . Keeping the small layout but adding to one end didn’t want to finish it because I’ll be tearing it out. You know you can never finish a layout because you’re always changing things. Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend. 😎😎 👍
there is so much planning ahead. i'll be back in the train room this week having spent the last one surf-side. I did see ScaleTrains announce they received the models but I ordered my through a hobby shop so I'm guessing i'll receive an email from them sometime in the next week saying they're ready for shipment so that's a nice surprise to come home to. and no, a layout is never finished. if i manage to finish this one in my life time, it'll be truly amazing.
If you are not thinking about moving, I think it’s a great idea. Following along with your journey would be very interesting and educational for your future and present subscribers.
Spend some of the home equity money before it’s gone! Lol
well, the other option is move and just get a bigger basement. some people decided to crash our world economy for four years so that seems a little silly right now but i'm not ruling it out either. the prospect of moving this layout is a thing of nightmares, however. i can see that being a several month process.
@@AlleghenyNorthern it would be great content for your channel.
mini prints took over shapeways
enjoy the updates
when you say "took over", did miniprints buy shapeways from bankruptcy? if so, that's awesome.
Hi, I have a question about couplers! I know that everyone in the US use Micro Train couplers. On my layout(n scale) I have KatoUSA locomotives running. Just bought a few stack cars from Walthers, but my locomotives are not happy with the Rapido Knuckle couplers. If there is just a small bump or a small rise they lose the cars. If they go into a corner with 2 stacks on it they want to flip over, even by slow speed. Should I use other couplers, and if yes is the answer, which one. Or do I have to swap the complete wheel sets on the cars? Greetings from The Netherlands, Bert
So, MTL couplers are definitely the baseline for function and looks in N scale. They're the standard I have adopted for my railroad because when installed correctly they're as flawless as the market offers. the issue you're having sounds like there's two issues. First, Kato couplers don't like many other couplers - it's my only complaint with Kato - their couplers just don't join well to non-Kato couplers. I'd replace them. I also don't care for Atlas' Accumate couplers. While they join better with other brands than Kato - they're shaped in a such a way they can be finicky. Lastly - the couplers Athearn used - especially their wheels - I immediately replace with MicroTrains - I don't usually give them a chance because I've had such terrible luck with them in the past. I would standardize your couplers if possible and I'd recommend MTL. Next, it sounds like your locos are tearing the cars from the tracks. This is common with large locos because when entering a curve, the locos swing wide and if the shank on the coupler is short, it forces the wheel to the outside of the curve and if it's tight enough, simply pulls the cars off the track. to help this, you have to sacrifice a small amount of realism and install a longer shank coupler. I would start with replacing the coupler on the loco and if that's still not enough play, also the coupler on the cars. If you're using the low profile metal wheels on your cars, that's also a contributing factor so try replacing them with the standard MTL wheels - they have a deeper flange and resist the side-to-side pulling from adjacent cars and locos much better. Give those a try and let me know how it goes!
@@AlleghenyNorthern thanks for the tip. Does MTL have one type of couplers or more? Doe you have a link? I will google MTL maybe I find what you mean
I found a company in Germany the sells MTL 👍🏻
Nice video update.
Where did you get your info that shapeways has closed up shop? I just checked there web site and it appears they are still open.
received an email from one of the designers i purchased from that they closed and he was looking for alternate places to print to continue to sell. i did a bit of googling and found out they did close according to the interwebs but i have noticed the site is still up and i can still log in - so i'm not sure what's going on.
Graffiti is part of the railroad culture and it should be shown in a better light. Isn't it better seeing a funny, brightly painted train pass by rather than pass by a beautiful building defaced in your town. I don't see it as illegal, it's more a way of make something that is dirty by nature into an artist design.
unfortunately, the status of graffiti being art or vandalism isn't really up to subjective review by social media. nearly all US cities and townships view it as vandalism and if caught carry anywhere from fines, probation, or jail time associated with the act. so, as the law sees it as illegal and destructive, that makes the "artist" a criminal. it makes it no better if it's a stationary building or a moving railroad car - the person defacing the surface doesn't own the surface or the right to mark it. i'm sure you wouldn't be thrilled to be a home owner and have someone tag the siding of your house. for railroads, the tag often covers information on the car that needs to be repainted on the car either to comply with FRA requirements or for the railroad/car owner's use. that carries a cost and therefore a burden to be paid by someone for the damage.