A DC Power Bus For Your DCC Model Railroad (168)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- DCC powered model railroads can have a lot of accessories that require DC power to operate. Now you can use accessory decoders and power them off your DCC power bus but that gives you less power for operating trains. In the end you may have to buy another booster just for your accessories. There is another option, add a DC power bus for powering them. It will be cheaper than a second booster and may simplify your wiring in the process. In this video I'll show how to wire up a DC power bus as well as adding sub buses to it for providing different voltages required by various accessories. So let's get started.
Parts List
All Electronics (www.allelectronics.com)
Quick Splice 22-18 7100
Quick Splice 16-14 7200
Quick Splice 12-10 7300
T-tap 22-18 951
T-tap 18-14 952
T-tap 12-10 953
Mouser (www.mouser.com)
3M 18-14/22-18 517-905
3M 12-10/18-14 517-567
Use what ever wire you need from your local hardware store. I suggest stranded wire and use 14ga for the main bus and 16ga for shorter sub buses.
For the buck boards search eBay for DC step down power circuits, there are tons on there. Pick the one that meets your power needs.
Anderson Power Poles
powerwerx.com/anderson-power-... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Larry, I bought your book through Amazon. Thanks
Hope you enjoy it!
Never thought about using a DC power bus. Thanks Larry!
I currently have 6 separate DCC power buses on the Return Loop I'm building. I'm currently adding a 12V DC bus and will be adding a 1.5V DC bus as well (both DC buses are for LEDs).
Coming into the Return Loop is a single DCC connection. That goes into two PSX-ARs which are used for 2 separate reverse loops. It also goes into a Digitrax PM42 which provides power to 3 different districts plus a 3rd Autoreverse circuit for a turntable.
The PM52 requires a dedicated 12V DC power supply. The Turntable requires an 18V AC power supply. And, I have a second 12V DC power supply for the LEDs. I'm running some 12V LED strips (the strips have 3 LEDs and a built in resistor). I'm in the process of adding potentiometers to the circuit to control the LED intensity. Oh and that 12V DC also powers an Arduino (only 1 currently).
In future I plan to add street lights but they are only 1.5V to 3.0V DC (I'm not sure which they are) so I'll use a Buck Converter to drop the 12V DC to the required Voltage for some Street Lights.
On another layout I run a 5V (I think) DC bus to power up my turnout controllers (servos) plus the regular DCC bus, well actually 4 DCC buses because I have 3 reversing loops. And, this layout is setup so I can run DC power for trains as well in which case I bypass the autoreverse units and use regular toggle switches to manually change DC polarity.
Great video as always, thank you!
Excellent instructional video. I just received your three books so will have them for reference as well but greatly appreciate you taking the time to share it on video!
Just the video I needed. Thank you 👍👍
great video with great info. thanks
Larry, you made yet another very informative video!!!! My brother and I are wiring up our layout so ..... this is PERFECT 🤩 !!!! Thank you 😊!!
very helpful tips thank you
Thanks Larry.
Already knew this, but very well put explanation for the new guys.
I'm a newbie, but I am confused.
@@jodacious46 About which part?
Thank you for this great video. I specially like the connectors you use. For a DC power supply I use an old PC tower's ATX power supply with an adapter (SongHe XH-M229 Desktop Computer Chassis Power Supply ATX Transfer Board Power Take Off Board Power) available from many places for less than at Amazon. It has fuses for each output: 3.3v, 5v, and two separate 12v outputs. Yes, it means running more wire bus wires, but you'll never run out of power and gives you voltage options.
Yes, I know of several people who use computer power supplies like that. However I have never been all that convinced of the utility of a 3.3 and 5 volt bus since they usually need additional dropping resistors for LEDs and other accessories. Personally I would rather start with something like a 12VDC bus and creat sub buses of the desired voltage in the area where LEDs or other accessories are clustered using the buck boards, that way I don’t have to deal with wiring in a bunch of resistors. On the Piedmont Southern I have a 12VDC 10 amp main bus with sub buses dropped off it where needed. And since my Kadee electromagnets are only i 2 locations I just use dedicated 16VDC 5 amp power supplies for them. There are a lot of ways to do this and none are usually the only or best way.
Great idea. I've been wondering what to do about more and more signal and panel LEDs that I've used 12v leds with 1k ohm resisters. A DC power buss is just an answer and zip cord will work great. Thanks Larry!
I do this on mine using the 16v acc feed from my Hornby HM2000. Then use DCCConcepts ADS 8fx boards to control the Fulgurex point motors I had. You can also buy neat Variable voltage reduction boards from ebay to then control voltage locally to accessories eg 6v 9v or 12v for a lighting bus for say a townscape and is handy as Fx motors run quieter at reduced voltage of 9v
Thanks Larry, what a really good Video, I have some DC Gauge Master 16v analogue Controller which I could use to power some Ancillary Functions on my Layout. Thank you.
As always ... a great video Larry!! Going to get some of these Anderson connectors. I'm still in the planning stages for my layout so the videos on the DCC bus and the 16-volt DC bus with DC sub-buses are super useful. My plan is to use bolt-less metal shelving (like Gorilla rack) at half height to hold layout modules. That way I can make a shelf to hold all the power cables, power supplies, etc. instead of killing my old back and neck underneath a layout.
BTW - you can find 16-volt DC power supplies @4.5 amps on Amazon for like $10.
Thanks for the tip.
I just sea a clever idea from Will Amman. He use copper pipe support for his dcc bus. When he need a feeder just crimp a round connecter and screw it to his bus in the closest hole. Too bad TH-cam does not let us post photo in the comment.
Personally, I only use DCC!! I’ve chipped up signals, points and a turntable as well as all my locomotives.
I bought a roll of 18 AWG Zip cord that was color coded red and black. I plan to use it for my DC buss on my modules.
At 1 Amp your voltage drop with 18ga wire will be about 0.03V per foot so do the math to see what your max loss might be.
@@TheDCCGuy It might be a little light. Definately up to FREEMO Standards, but they are my modules, and not likely to be used anywhere else.
More questions: do the 'buck-boards' generate heat -- in your example of stepping 16vDC down to 12vDC is the extra 4vDc dissipated as heat? Do the buck boards get hot enough that a person should be careful about what they are mounted to or on so it does not cause heat damage over time? Will the amount of heat generated increase with the size of the 'drop' -- for example dropping from 12vDC to 3vDC (9v drop) would generate more heat than the one going from 16vDC to 12vDC (4v drop)? Sorry for dumb questions -- I'm still in learning phase. Thank you for your time and assistance, and for all the knowledge you share regarding model railroads.
I would assume they have to dissipate it as heat but have never given it the fingertip test. Since I have mine in HO scale cabooses there should be plenty of room for the heat to safely dissipate but if they do heat up a bit then it would be advisable to keep them away from plastic parts.
Hi Larry…Love your videos!!
How about a series on Operations for us Brits?
There is very little over here on the subject. I know there is plenty of US material on the subject but very little A to Z in depth.
Stay Safe. Richard
It’s on the list but first I need to get a fully operational layout. I was thinking that since the modules will be completed in a reasonable timeframe I would start with them. Also I expect that sometime in the next year we may be able to restart operations on some of the local layouts, once everybody has been vaccinated and COVID goes into remission. New rule will be everyone must have proof of vaccination to even enter the layout!
Another great one as always.👍👍👍
What's the amp rating of those Anderson connecters?
They are available in 15/30/45 amp ratings depending on the wire size. The ones I use are 14-12 ga at 30 amps.
Larry, another very informative video. I’m building the layout but several weeks behind. PS, your website seems to be no longer available.
Glad to hear you are making progress. As for the website, I previously said it would only be up until the hosting renewal fee came due and it did.
Thanks for another great video. I was thinking of a dc power bus for my layout (Under construction layout) and just didn't know how to go about it. I ordered a couple of the 16v wall wart power supplies and a few barrel plug adapters. I would like to divide the bus into two sections splitting my layout in two halves. I'll order the step downs once I research what my projects require power wise. Just curious what your opinion might be on posi-taps for wire connections (feeders, power bus, etc...)? I have used these for Kato unitrack feeders and thus far no issues. And they're super simple to install and move about if needed. Also, should a dc power bus maintain a certain distance from our dcc track bus? And lastly, the more I learn the more I realize that I need to more familiarize myself with my multi-meter. Mine is a cheapy, just might have to think about an upgrade.
I looked into them and they seemed a much more expensive option, but should work.
Larry, have you tried the DCC Concepts PowerPoint Baseboard Dowels for connecting a power bus between modules? I have just got some for what I hope is a better way to provide power to a fold up section. Haven't installed them yet.
I have not installed them yet either. I may use them to replace the original dowels of I can find a way to remove the old ones. Using them for a lift up or loft out is interesting idea.
Great demo. Can you please tell me that brand you use for your 16V and 12V DC power? Many Thanks!
Just generic switching power supplies I picked up. Probably from Jameco or All Electronics.
I have to install a bunch of smail switch machines..And I dont think I will be able to program them on a seperate DC bus.
Looks like the One could Run stuff like the Miller Engineering Sign's if you install a power Block bout how Signs could be hooked up to it.. Thanks And Mr. Larry is it possible??? to buy Any of these products in a Store or place that excepts money orders, other than Amazon or Ebay some of Us we don't carry other means of credit we'd I'd like to but for now its only Benjamin Franklin..
Thanks for the Video.. And we have A couple of Your Books we want more of Them..
Yes you could and they are usually clustered in a city scene so a 4.5VDC sub bus would work.
Question , on your video of the just plug and dcc relay,,is it possible to power either one with nce power cab by having an extra lead
NCE offers the Illuminator for use with Just Plug lights. They also have the Light It device for plain LEDs.
At local big-box home improvement store I see 14-gauge 'speaker-wire'...would that be the same thing as the 'zip-cord' referenced in the video? Would the 14-gauge speaker wire be ok to use in place of 14 gauge 'zip-cord'? Thank you for your time and assistance.
Speaker wire is what I use, just make sure you are getting oxygen free copper and not copper clad aluminum.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you sir...I did see that some of it was the copper-clad aluminum (which has bad reviews from a lot of customers), so I will make sure I stay away from that and get the proper product. Thank you again for all the helpful information you provide via your books and these videos.
3:48 In which video did you previously discuss these "buck boards" and do you have a link for them?
Video 104. For the buck boards search eBay for DC step down power circuits, there are tons on there. Pick the one that meets your power needs.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry.
Do you have a preference on what kind of wall plug you use?
Standard US 3 prong.
@@TheDCCGuy 120 amp?
Test and reset button?
Hi Larry. Why don’t you test your connections just to make sure your suitcase connectors have penetrated the wire
Actually I do check them and I’ll point that out in the next video. It is especially important when dropping feeders since you can easily wire in a short or dead wire and then fi ding it later is a chore.
Just an FYI here. Once again your CC (closed captions) is missing for those who might need them.
Thanks for letting me know, I have no idea why this happens as I have not changed the default settings. I suspect the TH-cam computer has occasional backlogs and just skips a few videos at random to catch up.
Hay Larry : Once Again; Thanks For An Interesting Instructional Viddy. In Dealing With The Main Bus ( Higher Voltage and Higher Amp Output ) versus The Sub-Busses ? To Have An Adjustable Voltage For The Sub-Busses Is One Thing; But Watta Bout The Different Amp Requirement Across The Several Electrical Items ? Needless To Say; The Amp Requirement Of ( Say ) A Tortoise Switch Machine Circuit Is Greater Than That Ovva LED Circuit .... So Do You Protect Respective Sub-Bus Circuits With A Specific; Amp-Draw Related In-Line Fuse To Hopefully Prevent A Possible Destructive * Big Blue Flash * ? ? ! Much Ta / John
I just start with a big amp power supply and keep a mental tally of what I add on. Also you need to be aware of the amperage rating of the buck boards, some can carry 1.5 others 3 amps. However with most devices amp draw is minimal. LEDS take about 20 mA, Tortoises stall at about 20, and accessory decoders use very little. However the electromagnets suck up 3 amps but you’ll rarely have more than one working at the same time. So with a 5 amp power supply you can power a ton of most devices. My main DC bus is 10 amps and I doubt I’ll ever get close to that.
Why not use zip for 12v also?
I wanted different color wires for the different voltages.
Can you just come over and help me build my layout! I buy all the materials and lend a helping hand. You use your brains.. ill even pay you $50 an hour! Not joking either!
Who would be left to build mine?
@@TheDCCGuy I'll donate my time! I need a vacation!