One of the best most informative articles ever - I Have struggled with soldering for years, and like you say there is need to suffer. The parts are available off the shelf. I would also like to complement you on the right length of your article . Too many of these videos are too long and lack clear content - less is more!
Nice update. That's exactly the system I have used on my layout, including the Peco pre-wired fishplates. Didn't buy those until I had ruined a not very expensive, and therefore cheap to replace, soldering iron making my own! I have found when splicing, it's better to squeeze the suitcase connector before you close over the plastic tab
Fantastic, clear and superbly delivered, a massive thank you from an electrickery idiot. I can now start wiring up with confidence! So glad I found you.
Great video. I extended my layout recently and for weeks I have had this problem. Thanks for the answer now I know what to do. You have a lovely layout.
Wiring always seemed daunting to me and I've been putting this wiring off. But, thanks to your well explained video, I went off to Halfords and bought all the stuff and started. As you said, under £20 quid and no soldering. Thanks.
Many many thanks, you've saved me major headaches as I look to starting my first DCC layout. Well presented, and provides great clarity for non technical brains like mine.
Don't make it look so easy, I'm nearly finished setting mine up to run on DC and you make DCC looks so easy. In all honesty, great video and it looks smashing. Best Wishes, Alex.
Great video. I am about to build my first layout and was worried about the electrics, this has given me some ideas and a bit more confidence, thank you.
Found this video and found it to be a great tutorial. Albeit I have a large American N scale layout, my lovely Wife suggested I build a relative small OO layout, this winter, for my OO collection. At present, I have a small oval track to test my British locos, before they go into showcases. Where the locos purchased are non sound, busy installing both chip and sound units to them. It is a slow process as I have currently 192 British OO locos.
call them suit case connectors here. they work great but just have to watch the gauge of wires used. and if the break into the smaller wire. some times the larger bus wire does not let it close up tight enough if smaller wire is to small a gauge.
Indeed. Look closely and youll see the inner has a plastic dead end, this is for the lighter gauge ie the thicker bus wire runs through on the outer edge. Use the pliers to splice the blade through, then close the cover. Used these on cars acc wiring in the 70s and still dont like them. You should also tell usthe wiring gauge used
Hi & thanks for a super informative video. As a newcomer to the hobby this subject was one of my most misunderstood but not any more thanks to you! However I would appreciate your thoughts because I asked another You Tuber about dropper wires & he advised that every piece of track should have them! As I said I would appreciate your thoughts on that before I go ahead & attempt to design my first layout. Love your channel, keep up the good work! Nick
Thank you for this video. I am new to model railways and will be building a railway very soon and want to go with DCC but was worried as to how to do it all. Out of all the videos I have seen about DCC setting up etc this has been the most easy one to follow and you have made it look so much easier to set up. Many thanks for that. How ever one question what is the best points to use with DCC?? Gary
That's a good way of doing it. I don't like doing soldering. jubilee road doesn't have any booster wires and seems to run ok but I'm adding a fiddle yard next week so might need some then
Nice job, looked very straight forwards and easy to do. A job I really need to get on and do. Will make expansions and changes to the layout a lot easier to handle I'd imagine. Had inspired me to have a think and cost up what I'll be needing. Cheers, Rich.
great video ,basically everything covered .just starting my layout and have been deciding for a while either to go digital or analog..DCC all the way now
Great update richard you make it look easy i can remember when i first started didnt know what a bus wire was until i spoke to yan at ay76 he told me a lot of information about it all how do you find the select controller i have/had the elink and railmaster and it was great when it worked but as of xmas last year it stopped working so i wrote to santa and asked him if i could habe the esu ecos controller and 4 days before xmas day santas helper knocked on my door and said santa sent this for you i was like a kid in a sweet shop lol well thanks to my wife lol
Hi just watched your great video on bus wiring can you put the end of the bus wire into a block to light up lights or do you need a different wire if you can thank you 👍
Great video, I’m just about to start building my first DCC layout and this is definitely the approach I shall be taking. What could possibly go wrong 😳🤞
Great video NJ, could you please explain the whole mystery over turnouts thought please peco told me I had to put insulated joiner on each frog rail and the wire every turnout, you didn't mention wiring any turnouts? Thank you complete novice on the layout front let alone dcc and wiring am just starting out for the first time
Could not have been produced at a better time. Been to Hattons’s, back to Chester, now on virgin trains west coast super voyager to London Euston arrive 13:35, Vauxhall 14:00 , home Twickenham 14:40 and under the track with drill, bus wire and rail joiners droppers by 15:00 all for a bit more than £20:00! Worth it though the guys at Hattons are brilliant
Have a look at the WAGO connecters 2,3 OR 5 strip connecters, they're reusable and you'll never use anything else in this application, they are simply brilliant
Looking good! Even though you have soldered fishplates, would it still not be the effectiveness of the contact between this and the rail that would determine reliability?
Soldered fishplates are as pointless as a chocolate teacup, i dont use any metal fishplayes every fishplate i have is insulated type for block detection
My preference is to solder those connectors can be a nightmare sometimes they can miss the wire and just crimp the insulation especially if you are using two sizes of multi core cable i was always ripping them out of cars and caravans and soldering the wires with a bit of heat shrink to protect the wires like they should of been done in the first place i can bet you in the future you may start to get faults by using those and yes everyone can solder if you do it the right way i taught my six year old years ago and my wife as long as you flux tin both and use the correct amount of heat it will work every time it just requires an hour to practice you will get good at it trust me and then you will enjoy it and save yourself loads a money and be proud you have done a great job if you can lay scenery like you like a professional you will learn to solder as well just as good not everyone can do it first time just practice your modeling skill are brilliant get soldering and join the club lol
For someone new to model railways (me) and soldering (me, too) this was a breath of fresh air. I've got my order in for all the wire and Peco droppers I might need. What I'm not sure about, is whether a pair of dropper wires need to be attached for each 'oval' of track, and at roughly the same place on the layout? So, 3 pairs if the layout has an outer and 2 inner ovals, for example. Any advice would be welcome.
@@NewJunction Thank you for the additional assistance. Much appreciated. I've subscribed. :) By the way, you mentioned that the connectors are hard to clamp shut; but I got the impression you were trying to make the connection by pushing on the 'flap' of the connector. It may be easier to use pliers on the metal splicer to make the connection - and then close the 'flap'.
I have used these connectors & have had good reliability from them. I know they had a bad rep' in the motor industry & I believe in the caravan industry, as it saved time soldering etc. I got mine from the dipstick store, sorry I mean the Maplins store. I called it that after I went in & asked for some solder & got a kid having to run to the boss & ask whats solder. DOH
What’s the best way to wire up around points? Would you have a dropper on all 3 bits of track around the point work? (And does it matter if you use electro or insul frog points?) Great video - about to give a go to my first DCC wiring 😬
Hello NJ. I'm getting back to the hobby after many years and am in the process of wiring my first DCC layout. So much has changed as far as the wiring connectors. You mentioned the white terminal boxes in the vidio. Can you provide the source for them? Thanks, JDSSR
Suit case connectors is what I know them as here in the States! I always crimp the blade down first with a good set of pliers, or they make a special crimping tool just for those suit case connectors, then give a tug on both wires to see if it has spliced them. If all good, then close the lid and that doesn't require the pliers. I'm running all of my droppers(feeder wires here in the states), to a terminal strip. Then bus wires to the terminal strip using the suit case connectors from the main bus line. I hate to run trains in your attic space! All of the rafters to deal with? But you guys have limited space for layouts and have to use want the wife gives you for space! I don't have a wife, so I got free rain of the whole basement! 11' x 30'! Have fun, Roy
Hi… just hoping you could answer a question for me please. I have built an end to end layout that is 5ft main board plus fiddle yards bringing the whole length to 11 feet, and I’m going to be using an NCE PowerCab which I believe has 2amps output. Having trawled through various videos, I think I should be using 16/0.2 wire for the DCC droppers from the track…so does this mean I need to be using 24/0.2 wire for the bus? I can’t find this information anywhere and I’ve read on a forum somewhere that the droppers need to be a smaller gauge/size than the main bus. Can you offer any guidance? Thanks in advance 👍🏻🚂
Hi Richard, all very interesting. I have the Hornby Select but do not have the power chord and am experiencing difficulty locating a chord with the correct size pin (2,5/3mm dia ?) Living in Toronto means of course tgat the British plug does not work. Do you know if there is an adapter that would fit? Thanks Charlie
Great video - puts my basic 6x4 OO layout to shame, but we all have to start somewhere. Can I ask what the Firmware and Hardware versions are on YOUR Select controller as mine doesn't appear to be working as expected with 15/30 on start up. I have a DCC/TTS Flying Scotsman and although the locomotive moves the sounds (sound) automatically without even touching the Function keys. Any advice is most welcome !
Complete newbie here do you need to have droppers on every loop you have or can I use point clips instead silly question but I'm just starting out thank you
I understand how to connect the dropper wires to the bus wires. And I also understand the bus wire is not intended to be a continous loop. But, how do you connect the bus wires to the DCC controller?
What would happen if you used these droppers at every connection section? I gave up on my layout because I can't solder and kept melting my skin. I didn't know these wires existed! 😂 They will be so much better! I just want to know if too much will cause issues or not?
As someone that knows absolutely nothing about model railways (and is trying to learn!), can I ask why so many connections from the controller to the track? Im trying to work out why one cant just connect at one point and power the whole thing?
So what about points and branches off of your main track, do you put the fishplayes on there and connect them to the bus wires, because my layout has a lot of branches off of the main track? Thanks if you can help, I know it's a while after the video was published
Is the brand of connector (called an insulation displacement connector or suitcase connector) you used from 3M? They look like the #905 connector from 3M. You need to mention that the connector needs to match the gauge of the wires or you may not get a good connection. Enjoyed the video and your layout updates.
Very nice video Richard! Definitely shows how DCC can be cheaper than most think and the pre-soldered method is rather clever. Can't wait for the update, and is that a sneak peak of a Dapol IDA intermodal set for the DRS 68?
Hi great video and looks nice and neat, when I started my baseboards last week I am doing DC but as I say doing the baseboards I thought I would put bus wires in before I put the tops on then if I do change to DCC at a later date they will be there and all I would need to do is connect up to them. Regards George..
So, just to make sure I've got it right. I can have as many dropper wires I need on all running lines that I want powered (Sidings, up and down lines etc) and they all connect to that one bus wire that loops round? :-)
@@NewJunction Thats a shame I was thinking of getting back into railways (retired now) and thought I might use the select as a start up option. How do you operate your points?
Richard I have a DC set up and I am using guagemaster model D,I thought I would give this a try,do you put bus wire into say track 1 as I do at the moment or do you use accessories ? I am a 69 year old electrical idiot that's why I am asking your advice.
Great video. to the point, not like many many out there that babble on. Do you have any other videos of your layout. I liked the small portion I saw and would like to see more
I have a layout loop of about 32ft in total and used 5amp wire from Halfords and used gauge master wires for my droppers. I have a NCE Powercab controller, but when running more two locomotives the system shuts down after about ten minutes. Any ideas what might be happening
Would be the last connector i'd use. Known to 20th Century car mechanics as Scotch Locks. practically banned from any respectable garage tool box nowadays. What's that? Bulb gone in your Mk3 Escort rear cluster? No actually it`s the 7 core trailer cable that's been Scotch Locked to the main loom. :)
@@Synthematix yes, perfect for applications where no sort of reliability whatsoever is required. Much better you use piggyback spade crimps if you REALLY must avoid soldering.
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I’m new to the hobby and out of 20 videos this one actually gives me the confidence to do it. Thank you
Go for it, super simple 😃
Can I wire multiple parallel tracks to the same bus wire?
@@connorgaydos8677 yes 👍
@@NewJunction thank you sir!
Ditto this comment I have watched many videos and this one gives me the confidence to try and have a go thank you
One of the best most informative articles ever - I Have struggled with soldering for years, and like you say there is need to suffer. The parts are available off the shelf. I would also like to complement you on the right length of your article . Too many of these videos are too long and lack clear content - less is more!
Nice update. That's exactly the system I have used on my layout, including the Peco pre-wired fishplates. Didn't buy those until I had ruined a not very expensive, and therefore cheap to replace, soldering iron making my own! I have found when splicing, it's better to squeeze the suitcase connector before you close over the plastic tab
Fantastic, clear and superbly delivered, a massive thank you from an electrickery idiot. I can now start wiring up with confidence! So glad I found you.
Also new to the hobby and your explanation about bus wires and droppers was so easy to understand. Thanks.
Great video. I extended my layout recently and for weeks I have had this problem. Thanks for the answer now I know what to do. You have a lovely layout.
Great video, I'm going to building my first layout soon. Just got a house with a garage finally. This video has really helped me, thank you. 👍
Wiring always seemed daunting to me and I've been putting this wiring off. But, thanks to your well explained video, I went off to Halfords and bought all the stuff and started. As you said, under £20 quid and no soldering. Thanks.
My pleasure Steve
Excellent video just what I needed for a newbie
Many many thanks, you've saved me major headaches as I look to starting my first DCC layout. Well presented, and provides great clarity for non technical brains like mine.
Don't make it look so easy, I'm nearly finished setting mine up to run on DC and you make DCC looks so easy. In all honesty, great video and it looks smashing. Best Wishes, Alex.
haha you should go DCC Alex, super easy. regards Richard
Thanks NJ, I think this is a great idea, will be adopting this for my brand new layout, save soldering my fingers together!
Great video. I am about to build my first layout and was worried about the electrics, this has given me some ideas and a bit more confidence, thank you.
You're very welcome
Found this video and found it to be a great tutorial. Albeit I have a large American N scale layout, my lovely Wife suggested I build a relative small OO layout, this winter, for my OO collection. At present, I have a small oval track to test my British locos, before they go into showcases. Where the locos purchased are non sound, busy installing both chip and sound units to them. It is a slow process as I have currently 192 British OO locos.
That's a huge collection, have fun with the new build!
Absolutely clear. Wonderful !
Great video, im just not sure regarding points how they work so you can cross tracks. Thanks
Excellent video and commentary Richard. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it, regards Richard
Great idea which I’ll be using on my layout. you mention the amperage the Buss wire can take, what size is it? ie 1mm, .75mm etc. Thanks in advance.
call them suit case connectors here. they work great but just have to watch the gauge of wires used. and if the break into the smaller wire. some times the larger bus wire does not let it close up tight enough if smaller wire is to small a gauge.
Your not wrong sparky, the splicers didn't splice the smaller wires without the pliers. regards Richard
Indeed. Look closely and youll see the inner has a plastic dead end, this is for the lighter gauge ie the thicker bus wire runs through on the outer edge. Use the pliers to splice the blade through, then close the cover. Used these on cars acc wiring in the 70s and still dont like them. You should also tell usthe wiring gauge used
Great informative video. Explained so easily understood
I've only got a little layout ( it's a simple inner and outer radius) this helped me so much thanks:)
wow ... as many videos that i've watched. yours made the most sense to me :.D
Thank you!
Glad I could help
Hi & thanks for a super informative video. As a newcomer to the hobby this subject was one of my most misunderstood but not any more thanks to you! However I would appreciate your thoughts because I asked another You Tuber about dropper wires & he advised that every piece of track should have them! As I said I would appreciate your thoughts on that before I go ahead & attempt to design my first layout. Love your channel, keep up the good work! Nick
Thank you for this video. I am new to model railways and will be building a railway very soon and want to go with DCC but was worried as to how to do it all. Out of all the videos I have seen about DCC setting up etc this has been the most easy one to follow and you have made it look so much easier to set up. Many thanks for that. How ever one question what is the best points to use with DCC?? Gary
Hi Garry, I use insufrogs
That's a good way of doing it. I don't like doing soldering. jubilee road doesn't have any booster wires and seems to run ok but I'm adding a fiddle yard next week so might need some then
If you need a hand give me a shout! ;)
Nice job, looked very straight forwards and easy to do. A job I really need to get on and do. Will make expansions and changes to the layout a lot easier to handle I'd imagine. Had inspired me to have a think and cost up what I'll be needing. Cheers, Rich.
Your very welcome Doug! Its so simple and affordable without any effort at all, definatley worth doing.
great video ,basically everything covered .just starting my layout and have been deciding for a while either to go digital or analog..DCC all the way now
Yeah its super simple. :-)
Great update richard you make it look easy i can remember when i first started didnt know what a bus wire was until i spoke to yan at ay76 he told me a lot of information about it all how do you find the select controller i have/had the elink and railmaster and it was great when it worked but as of xmas last year it stopped working so i wrote to santa and asked him if i could habe the esu ecos controller and 4 days before xmas day santas helper knocked on my door and said santa sent this for you i was like a kid in a sweet shop lol well thanks to my wife lol
Santa has a lot to answer for!
New Junction richard santa is awesome i always ask him at xmas and it must be because am a good boy all year round lol
Excellent vid - now I just need to get my head around how all this works with electrofrog points (do they self isolate)
I agree about the fishplates. I have ECoS. I agree about the dropper spacing. Nice job.
Up there in my 'must have' product list.
Hi just watched your great video on bus wiring can you put the end of the bus wire into a block to light up lights or do you need a different wire if you can thank you 👍
Great video, I’m just about to start building my first DCC layout and this is definitely the approach I shall be taking. What could possibly go wrong 😳🤞
What a great simple explanation thank ever so much.....
Great video NJ, could you please explain the whole mystery over turnouts thought please peco told me I had to put insulated joiner on each frog rail and the wire every turnout, you didn't mention wiring any turnouts? Thank you complete novice on the layout front let alone dcc and wiring am just starting out for the first time
Thanks for sharing. Inspired me to have a go!!
Great stuff
Could not have been produced at a better time. Been to Hattons’s, back to Chester, now on virgin trains west coast super voyager to London Euston arrive 13:35, Vauxhall 14:00 , home Twickenham 14:40 and under the track with drill, bus wire and rail joiners droppers by 15:00 all for a bit more than £20:00! Worth it though the guys at Hattons are brilliant
Hope it goes well! regards Richard
That was a very informative vid with lots of ideas to take away from. Thank you!
Your welcome!
Have a look at the WAGO connecters 2,3 OR 5 strip connecters, they're reusable and you'll never use anything else in this application, they are simply brilliant
How do you use the Wago connectors?
Looking good! Even though you have soldered fishplates, would it still not be the effectiveness of the contact between this and the rail that would determine reliability?
Soldered fishplates are as pointless as a chocolate teacup, i dont use any metal fishplayes every fishplate i have is insulated type for block detection
My preference is to solder those connectors can be a nightmare sometimes they can miss the wire and just crimp the insulation especially if you are using two sizes of multi core cable i was always ripping them out of cars and caravans and soldering the wires with a bit of heat shrink to protect the wires like they should of been done in the first place i can bet you in the future you may start to get faults by using those and yes everyone can solder if you do it the right way i taught my six year old years ago and my wife as long as you flux tin both and use the correct amount of heat it will work every time it just requires an hour to practice you will get good at it trust me and then you will enjoy it and save yourself loads a money and be proud you have done a great job if you can lay scenery like you like a professional you will learn to solder as well just as good not everyone can do it first time just practice your modeling skill are brilliant get soldering and join the club lol
Superb timing I was looking for a video to show me this so I could do it for my new layout !!
Best of luck with it!
love the vids makes it so easy keep up good work
Great video really helped with a lot! In the future (soon) can you do videos like track laying, planing etc!?
For someone new to model railways (me) and soldering (me, too) this was a breath of fresh air. I've got my order in for all the wire and Peco droppers I might need. What I'm not sure about, is whether a pair of dropper wires need to be attached for each 'oval' of track, and at roughly the same place on the layout? So, 3 pairs if the layout has an outer and 2 inner ovals, for example. Any advice would be welcome.
One connection per oval will work but the more the merrier. Id lean on more for reliability over time.
@@NewJunction Thank you for the additional assistance. Much appreciated. I've subscribed. :) By the way, you mentioned that the connectors are hard to clamp shut; but I got the impression you were trying to make the connection by pushing on the 'flap' of the connector. It may be easier to use pliers on the metal splicer to make the connection - and then close the 'flap'.
@@skelligringphotographyandw7012 yes since filming a better set of pliers was the answer. 😀
Great Presentation. Thank you for sharing this video.
Your welcome!
I have used these connectors & have had good reliability from them. I know they had a bad rep' in the motor industry & I believe in the caravan industry, as it saved time soldering etc. I got mine from the dipstick store, sorry I mean the Maplins store. I called it that after I went in & asked for some solder & got a kid having to run to the boss & ask whats solder. DOH
What’s the best way to wire up around points? Would you have a dropper on all 3 bits of track around the point work? (And does it matter if you use electro or insul frog points?)
Great video - about to give a go to my first DCC wiring 😬
Insulfrog take care of themselves, but electrofrog have to be isolated and switched with the points, otherwise they don't work.
Look at Chadwick Model Railway's videos, Charlie goes into this really well.
Now that's what I communication! Regards Stephen.
Nice idea might use this on my N gauge layout
Hello NJ. I'm getting back to the hobby after many years and am in the process of wiring my first DCC layout. So much has changed as far as the wiring connectors. You mentioned the white terminal boxes in the vidio. Can you provide the source for them? Thanks, JDSSR
scotch clips, greatest invention from the 60's i believe?
great video! I'm new to the hobby, can you perhaps do a follow-up with wiring for turnouts?
Oliver Mendez I don't wire mine up. :-)
Yes, point motors are fantastic but I really can be doing without the extra work load wiring them up.
Great vid, loving all the great work u do. Keep it up!
Ollie
Cheers Ollie! :)
Nice ideas thanks, I will be sure to use them.
Suit case connectors is what I know them as here in the States! I always crimp the blade down first with a good set of pliers, or they make a special crimping tool just for those suit case connectors, then give a tug on both wires to see if it has spliced them. If all good, then close the lid and that doesn't require the pliers. I'm running all of my droppers(feeder wires here in the states), to a terminal strip. Then bus wires to the terminal strip using the suit case connectors from the main bus line. I hate to run trains in your attic space! All of the rafters to deal with? But you guys have limited space for layouts and have to use want the wife gives you for space! I don't have a wife, so I got free rain of the whole basement! 11' x 30'! Have fun, Roy
Great video might use it in future but just solder some things for just reliability
What ever suits you pal!
Hi… just hoping you could answer a question for me please. I have built an end to end layout that is 5ft main board plus fiddle yards bringing the whole length to 11 feet, and I’m going to be using an NCE PowerCab which I believe has 2amps output. Having trawled through various videos, I think I should be using 16/0.2 wire for the DCC droppers from the track…so does this mean I need to be using 24/0.2 wire for the bus? I can’t find this information anywhere and I’ve read on a forum somewhere that the droppers need to be a smaller gauge/size than the main bus. Can you offer any guidance? Thanks in advance 👍🏻🚂
This video has saved me from so much soldering
Hi Richard, all very interesting. I have the Hornby Select but do not have the power chord and am experiencing difficulty locating a chord with the correct size pin (2,5/3mm dia ?)
Living in Toronto means of course tgat the British plug does not work.
Do you know if there is an adapter that would fit?
Thanks Charlie
Hi Charlie, best bet would be to get in touch with Hornby hobbies, they'll be best suited to advise. 😊
Hi! Thanks for another great video. One question: what gauge wires did you use, solid or stranded? Thanks.
Great video new junction
mick fletcher Thanks Mick!
I like your musical choice for the video. What is it ?
This definitely appears to be the most beginner-friendly method of setting up DCC wiring... especially as I have zero experience with soldering
Great tutorial might use it in the future
Feel free!
Great video - puts my basic 6x4 OO layout to shame, but we all have to start somewhere. Can I ask what the Firmware and Hardware versions are on YOUR Select controller as mine doesn't appear to be working as expected with 15/30 on start up. I have a DCC/TTS Flying Scotsman and although the locomotive moves the sounds (sound) automatically without even touching the Function keys. Any advice is most welcome !
Complete newbie here do you need to have droppers on every loop you have or can I use point clips instead silly question but I'm just starting out thank you
Do you do anything special at the points? Is it just plastic rail joiners on the v's of the points, be they electrofrog or insulfrog?
Just seen a kit on eBay looks identical got myself one. Fingers crossed
I understand how to connect the dropper wires to the bus wires. And I also understand the bus wire is not intended to be a continous loop. But, how do you connect the bus wires to the DCC controller?
Most controllers have a port to accept the bus wires, they are then held by a small screw
Thank you, Mark @@NewJunction
Wonderful. Many thanks.
What would happen if you used these droppers at every connection section? I gave up on my layout because I can't solder and kept melting my skin. I didn't know these wires existed! 😂 They will be so much better! I just want to know if too much will cause issues or not?
Does the track switch wires go into the same bus wire to be controlled by the dcc controler?
Hi, great video, just wondering where you got the connecting connector blocks from?
Hi David, they came from ebay, search for DCC bits and you'll find them. regards Richard
How much? haha
As someone that knows absolutely nothing about model railways (and is trying to learn!), can I ask why so many connections from the controller to the track? Im trying to work out why one cant just connect at one point and power the whole thing?
So what about points and branches off of your main track, do you put the fishplayes on there and connect them to the bus wires, because my layout has a lot of branches off of the main track?
Thanks if you can help, I know it's a while after the video was published
Top video very helpful thanks
Do you have a link for those crimping splicers?
Is the brand of connector (called an insulation displacement connector or suitcase connector) you used from 3M? They look like the #905 connector from 3M. You need to mention that the connector needs to match the gauge of the wires or you may not get a good connection. Enjoyed the video and your layout updates.
No idea if i'm honest, the place I brought them from sorted me out. :D
Very nice video Richard! Definitely shows how DCC can be cheaper than most think and the pre-soldered method is rather clever. Can't wait for the update, and is that a sneak peak of a Dapol IDA intermodal set for the DRS 68?
Hi great video and looks nice and neat, when I started my baseboards last week I am doing DC but as I say doing the baseboards I thought I would put bus wires in before I put the tops on then if I do change to DCC at a later date they will be there and all I would need to do is connect up to them. Regards George..
I'd recommend going DCC for the extra control it offers & as you've seen, no real extra work or cost involved.
So, just to make sure I've got it right. I can have as many dropper wires I need on all running lines that I want powered (Sidings, up and down lines etc) and they all connect to that one bus wire that loops round? :-)
Yes 👍🏻
@@NewJunction perfect ! Cheers, when I do eventually get everything sorted baseboards etc, will be good to get my trains running properly again !
When doing your dcc wiring, have you used any insulating rail joiners at your points.
Non
What tripped the trains at the end, causing them to stop?
R U running electrified points from the Select and if so can you indicate how to wire the points motors into the system? Please.
Hi, I dont use any point motors I'm afraid.
Regards
Richard
@@NewJunction Thats a shame I was thinking of getting back into railways (retired now) and thought I might use the select as a start up option. How do you operate your points?
Hi there cud you please tell what ballast colour that you used on you lay out here please after some for my layout thank you
Woodland scenics fine grey blend
@@NewJunction thank you big help
Richard I have a DC set up and I am using guagemaster model D,I thought I would give this a try,do you put bus wire into say track 1 as I do at the moment or do you use accessories ?
I am a 69 year old electrical idiot that's why I am asking your advice.
Could you link the Heathcote Electronics automatic signals to these bus wires to provide them with power?
No as they require a different voltage.
Do you have to have dropper wire's on every siding with dcc when using electrofrog points ?
Yes
Excellent
Thanks for this instructive video !! Onno.
Your welcome Onno!
What is the exact terminology for the splicing clips? I need to find some here in the States.
A quite common name for them are suitcase connectors
Question what was the wire that you used and where can i get those clips from. Thanks
I think their called scotch loks. I've seen them used in motor industry, if this is any help to you
Great video. to the point, not like many many out there that babble on. Do you have any other videos of your layout. I liked the small portion I saw and would like to see more
Hi Alan, my channel is full of videos of my layout, have a look at 'Layout Updates' 👍🏻
I have a layout loop of about 32ft in total and used 5amp wire from Halfords and used gauge master wires for my droppers. I have a NCE Powercab controller, but when running more two locomotives the system shuts down after about ten minutes. Any ideas what might be happening
You may need a booster power pack?
Thanks Richard
great vid mate 😉
Thanks Ali
Would it be the same set up for a DC layout
Yes 👍
Why do the bus wires not run in a loop?
Thank you!!
Would be the last connector i'd use. Known to 20th Century car mechanics as Scotch Locks. practically banned from any respectable garage tool box nowadays.
What's that? Bulb gone in your Mk3 Escort rear cluster? No actually it`s the 7 core trailer cable that's been Scotch Locked to the main loom. :)
No good for cars but perfect for model railways
@@Synthematix yes, perfect for applications where no sort of reliability whatsoever is required. Much better you use piggyback spade crimps if you REALLY must avoid soldering.
You know you can have bad solder joints too aswell right?
@@Synthematix yes but you can train yourself to solder better, scotchlocks will always be shite.
Well theyre good enough for everard junction, one of the best modellers in the country
Is your bus wires solid or stranded