Watched this and bought the full kit. Mostly use 18mm for cabinets but don’t want to regret not buying the others. Can’t wait for them to come. Will be using them on a project immediately
@@michaelglaser1669 Michael this concept is very good. I would say that my first one or two needed a bit of help with a sander, but this was down to the cuts ,not the jig. However I would definitely recommend you back cut the scribe line slightly to get a better fit. Not quite like the video, but with more practice, it will🤣
hey Dan, I was about to use the offset method for the first time today. the carcasses are 18mm thick. at its widest point, the gap between the wall and the outside edge of the carcass is 46mm. at its narrowest point, the gap between the wall and the outside edge of the carcass is 36mm. the deviation in the wall is therefore 10mm. I was about to cut my infill to 61mm in preparation for scribing (46mm gap plus an allowance of 15mm). however, it occurred to me this infill wouldn't fit when attached to the u-scribe as I have to allow for the wall at the nearest point... the nearest point plus carcass thickness would be 36+18 = 54mm. so in this example, my infill would have to be cut down to somewhere between 46mm and 54mm. so in reality, using the offset method, the amount you have to play with is not actually CARCASS_THICKNESS but rather (CARCASS_THICKNESS minus MAX_DEVIATION), which would be 8mm in the above example. following on from that, let's say you had a wall where the MAX_DEVIATION was 16mm, then with an 18mm carcass you would have to first cut the infill down to within a 2mm range. this leads me to think that the offset method is only really worthwhile attempting if the wall is pretty flat and deviates less than half of your carcass thickness. have I got this right or am I completely missing something?
Hi buddy. I understand what you are saying here, but Best way to explain i find is this Let’s say for example in this setting in the offset position you have a filler of 50mm to 40mm and a carcass of 18mm so that’s a wall deviation of 10mm, widest part is 50mm narrowest is 40mm At its smallest point 40 + 18 = 58 for my pre rip size, we have a 10 tolerance (the amount the wall runs out) 18mm cabinet - 10mm wall deviation as your wall doesn’t run out more than the width of the cabinet you can use an 18mm block or scribe tool set to 18mm as your cabinet thickness to scribe from your wall This will draw the perfect image of the wall onto your material. The maths should read 10mm out, which is the deviation in the wall out so your filler should measure 40mm - 50mm as all you have done is remove the excess Feel free to message email or DM on socials anytime always happy to help dude
@@u-scribejig Cheers Dan. I believe that conforms with what I was trying to get right in my head; the closer the max_deviation is to the carcass_thickness the more accurate I need to be with the width that I rip the board down to as there is less wiggle room using the offset method. I lost the parallel guide for my circular saw so it seems a safer option (for me at least) to go for the infinite scribe method if the wall runs out more than 10mm. Cheers for the quick reply. The jig has been great the few times I've used it so far.
hi Just recently fitted 3m tall wardrobe...old building and had to scribe from 70mm top to 20mm bottom ... couldn't figure out how to use your jig to make this happen ...
Definitely going ordering one of these!! Just a question, do you not find that cutting laminate/pvc fillers with a jig saw, chips the laminate? Not noticable on the material used in the video, but if it was say an ivory colour. I usually use the circular saw and a planer but always looking for quicker ways. Great product cant wait to use it
hi Stephen sorry for the late reply I had logged out of you tube I didn't receive the notification I apologise, blade selection with any material is vital, I used a jigsaw in this video as I wanted to show you didn't need any overly expensive tools to get awesome results using @uscribejig, once you've marked the perfect scribeline you only need to work up to the line with your cutting tools, I use the T101 and T101b jigsaw blades as they are fine cut blades, sometimes slowing the speed down can help with splintering and control with a jigsaw 👍
Hi Stephen the fastest and most accurate way I have found to do scribes especially tricky ones in old houses were the plastering is all over the place is exactly like in the video except instead of using a jig saw go over the cutting edge at a 45 degree angle with your planer, then I use a 115mm grinder with a sanding plate on it with a fine sanding disc as long as you keep the front edge when the disc is rotation down into the work piece you get zero chips and with the grinder it is so much easier to see your lines you are scribing to, the only down side is it chucks the dust into the air so a mask and eye protection is a good idea, it takes some getting used to but the results speak for them selves, hope this helps. P.s. I’ve just bought a set of the U Scribes, I’m looking forward to trying them out
When scribing vertical fillers, what mechanism keeps the Uscribe Jig from sliding down the cabinet? Does the material still need to be supported from the bottom or is there enough clamping friction to support a decently heavy hardwood filler?
Jack Rogan hi jack, I’ve found both outcomes to your answer to be honest, we’ve designed the uscribe to be a friction fit but pure physics and weight will always act on the material and product. Sometimes I can slide the fillers on and there locked in place as there a good fit on the material, due to manufacturing the boards can be very slightly different from ply to chipboard to mdf as little as 0.05 upto 0.5mm difference so we’ve designed each size to compensate for this, but sometimes placing the uscribe in a position just below or above the bottom and top shelf will help keep it in place on long or heavy fillers. It’s the #3rdhand helping keep in flush and in place to get really accurate scribe lines 👍🏻👍🏻
Why do you flip the board upside down in the vertical scribe demo...?. Does the final install require the board to then be flipped again...that way the factory edge is on the 'inside' edge or show side...? You should have maybe said that out loud during the video...
apologies for the late reply, a lot of the messages over the years actually never showed up, the factory edge is always best going up the cabinet, I possibly flipped it to add the scribes before scribing or during cutting only
thanks Gary, hope you like them as much as everyone else, these fillers in this video were screwed where the hinge plates will be and the top scribes held by a return battern an glued because they are such a good fit the don't need as many fixings too keep an eye on our instagram page for any new tips tricks and ideas we have, we will also be updating our you tube videos soon too thanks Dan @uscribejig
Can you not not do the top infill piece by using the jig the same way as you did on the side by just measuring the gap difference then double it and then thats your distance to use on scribing tool? because you can just turn the material round then it just saves you having to cut the material at a certain size already..? hope you understand..
apologies for the unbelievably long wait for a reply, some messages slipped the net online, all cabinet infills can be scribed in both methods, like the offset and infinity method, I prefer the infinity method for any that require more than 20mm scribed and are without any tricky mouldings, I prefer getting closer with the offset method especially if there are any moulding to be scribed or tricky sections thanks Dan
Hi, I've bought a u scribe jig. How ever i do my fillers so they are all flush with the doors once finished as i much prefer the look of everything flush and not set back from the doors. For this i fix a batten down the side of the cabinet to fix the fillet too before i put my cabinets in place. This is then in the way of the jig, how else can i do it?
Ben Thomas hi Ben, I do this too myself, not all jobs are flush fillers some are face fillers, you can fix the battern after you have scribed your filler or if you add your battern to your filler first use the slotted section to attach your u-scribes to the battern and scribe like normal. Any questions there is lots of content over on Instagram and I’m always there to ask any questions anytime thanks Dan
James Cox the hole in the seat position Is for face fillers as that attaches the U-Scribejig to the back of your filler or facia so not to damage the inside or front. 👍🏻
@@shermansquires3979 with @uscribejig anyone from pro to DIY can mark the perfect scribe line and im 100% confident they will get better results, all whilst working safer, smarter and easier 👍
![Handy Gadgets for Easier Installs [video 341][Gifted/Ad**]](/img/n.gif)
Most IMPRESSIVE demonstration.
And a big hello from the other side of the pond, in California.
*SCAMMER ALERT, FLIXZONE IS A SCAM*
Watched this and bought the full kit. Mostly use 18mm for cabinets but don’t want to regret not buying the others.
Can’t wait for them to come. Will be using them on a project immediately
Paul, how did it go? I just ordered the Thingamejig, but am considering this as well... starting to get desperate.
@@michaelglaser1669 Michael this concept is very good. I would say that my first one or two needed a bit of help with a sander, but this was down to the cuts ,not the jig. However I would definitely recommend you back cut the scribe line slightly to get a better fit. Not quite like the video, but with more practice, it will🤣
Hi, have you considered making a 36mm jig for those of us who somtimes double up on 18mm to make thicker gables?
Very good idea guys. Ill be buying these.
hey Dan, I was about to use the offset method for the first time today.
the carcasses are 18mm thick.
at its widest point, the gap between the wall and the outside edge of the carcass is 46mm.
at its narrowest point, the gap between the wall and the outside edge of the carcass is 36mm.
the deviation in the wall is therefore 10mm.
I was about to cut my infill to 61mm in preparation for scribing (46mm gap plus an allowance of 15mm).
however, it occurred to me this infill wouldn't fit when attached to the u-scribe as I have to allow for the wall at the nearest point...
the nearest point plus carcass thickness would be 36+18 = 54mm.
so in this example, my infill would have to be cut down to somewhere between 46mm and 54mm.
so in reality, using the offset method, the amount you have to play with is not actually CARCASS_THICKNESS but rather (CARCASS_THICKNESS minus MAX_DEVIATION), which would be 8mm in the above example.
following on from that, let's say you had a wall where the MAX_DEVIATION was 16mm, then with an 18mm carcass you would have to first cut the infill down to within a 2mm range. this leads me to think that the offset method is only really worthwhile attempting if the wall is pretty flat and deviates less than half of your carcass thickness.
have I got this right or am I completely missing something?
Hi buddy.
I understand what you are saying here, but Best way to explain i find is this
Let’s say for example in this setting in the offset position you have a filler of 50mm to 40mm and a carcass of 18mm so that’s a wall deviation of 10mm, widest part is 50mm narrowest is 40mm
At its smallest point 40 + 18 = 58 for my pre rip size, we have a 10 tolerance (the amount the wall runs out)
18mm cabinet - 10mm wall deviation as your wall doesn’t run out more than the width of the cabinet you can use an 18mm block or scribe tool set to 18mm as your cabinet thickness to scribe from your wall
This will draw the perfect image of the wall onto your material.
The maths should read 10mm out, which is the deviation in the wall out so your filler should measure 40mm - 50mm as all you have done is remove the excess
Feel free to message email or DM on socials anytime always happy to help dude
@@u-scribejig Cheers Dan. I believe that conforms with what I was trying to get right in my head; the closer the max_deviation is to the carcass_thickness the more accurate I need to be with the width that I rip the board down to as there is less wiggle room using the offset method. I lost the parallel guide for my circular saw so it seems a safer option (for me at least) to go for the infinite scribe method if the wall runs out more than 10mm. Cheers for the quick reply. The jig has been great the few times I've used it so far.
Can’t wait to order what kind of scribe are you using
gtjr1975 here I’m using a pencil and a cut block of wood the same thickness as my carcass 👍🏻
Looks like a Profiler..
this is only for European style cabinetry in MM??
hi Just recently fitted 3m tall wardrobe...old building and had to scribe from 70mm top to 20mm bottom ... couldn't figure out how to use your jig to make this happen ...
infinity method buddy would be the best for this
What measurement was 53?
Excellent video dan
Where to buy
Www.u-scribejig.co.Uk and amazon sir
Definitely going ordering one of these!! Just a question, do you not find that cutting laminate/pvc fillers with a jig saw, chips the laminate? Not noticable on the material used in the video, but if it was say an ivory colour. I usually use the circular saw and a planer but always looking for quicker ways. Great product cant wait to use it
hi Stephen sorry for the late reply I had logged out of you tube I didn't receive the notification I apologise, blade selection with any material is vital, I used a jigsaw in this video as I wanted to show you didn't need any overly expensive tools to get awesome results using @uscribejig, once you've marked the perfect scribeline you only need to work up to the line with your cutting tools, I use the T101 and T101b jigsaw blades as they are fine cut blades, sometimes slowing the speed down can help with splintering and control with a jigsaw 👍
I've recently tried using a down-cutting jigsaw blade - worked very well too! 👍
Hi Stephen the fastest and most accurate way I have found to do scribes especially tricky ones in old houses were the plastering is all over the place is exactly like in the video except instead of using a jig saw go over the cutting edge at a 45 degree angle with your planer, then I use a 115mm grinder with a sanding plate on it with a fine sanding disc as long as you keep the front edge when the disc is rotation down into the work piece you get zero chips and with the grinder it is so much easier to see your lines you are scribing to, the only down side is it chucks the dust into the air so a mask and eye protection is a good idea, it takes some getting used to but the results speak for them selves, hope this helps. P.s. I’ve just bought a set of the U Scribes, I’m looking forward to trying them out
You can’t see what you did. Why didn’t you get someone to film you close up.
When scribing vertical fillers, what mechanism keeps the Uscribe Jig from sliding down the cabinet? Does the material still need to be supported from the bottom or is there enough clamping friction to support a decently heavy hardwood filler?
Jack Rogan hi jack, I’ve found both outcomes to your answer to be honest, we’ve designed the uscribe to be a friction fit but pure physics and weight will always act on the material and product. Sometimes I can slide the fillers on and there locked in place as there a good fit on the material, due to manufacturing the boards can be very slightly different from ply to chipboard to mdf as little as 0.05 upto 0.5mm difference so we’ve designed each size to compensate for this, but sometimes placing the uscribe in a position just below or above the bottom and top shelf will help keep it in place on long or heavy fillers. It’s the #3rdhand helping keep in flush and in place to get really accurate scribe lines 👍🏻👍🏻
Why do you flip the board upside down in the vertical scribe demo...?. Does the final install require the board to then be flipped again...that way the factory edge is on the 'inside' edge or show side...? You should have maybe said that out loud during the video...
apologies for the late reply, a lot of the messages over the years actually never showed up, the factory edge is always best going up the cabinet, I possibly flipped it to add the scribes before scribing or during cutting only
@@u-scribejig so then if the scribe is tapered. . you have to maintain that orientation . .right?
Great demo Dan.
Just bought mine 👍
Question ? How do you then fix in place those fillers and facia’s you’ve just cut ?
thanks Gary, hope you like them as much as everyone else, these fillers in this video were screwed where the hinge plates will be and the top scribes held by a return battern an glued because they are such a good fit the don't need as many fixings too keep an eye on our instagram page for any new tips tricks and ideas we have, we will also be updating our you tube videos soon too thanks Dan @uscribejig
Magic - many thanks Dan 👌🏼🤗
Excellent video man! Keep the costs down and the value high!
Can you not not do the top infill piece by using the jig the same way as you did on the side by just measuring the gap difference then double it and then thats your distance to use on scribing tool? because you can just turn the material round then it just saves you having to cut the material at a certain size already..? hope you understand..
How would you a approach an ‘L’ or ‘U’ shape cornice with a 5mm overhand on doors???
Bought. Used. Liked. But please reshoot this video in portrait mode. Can't see what's going on 😫
it is in portrait mode, you must mean landscape
@@nickhall5959 yes sorry landscape
apologies for the unbelievably long wait for a reply, some messages slipped the net online, all cabinet infills can be scribed in both methods, like the offset and infinity method, I prefer the infinity method for any that require more than 20mm scribed and are without any tricky mouldings, I prefer getting closer with the offset method especially if there are any moulding to be scribed or tricky sections
thanks Dan
Hi,
I've bought a u scribe jig. How ever i do my fillers so they are all flush with the doors once finished as i much prefer the look of everything flush and not set back from the doors. For this i fix a batten down the side of the cabinet to fix the fillet too before i put my cabinets in place. This is then in the way of the jig, how else can i do it?
Ben Thomas hi Ben, I do this too myself, not all jobs are flush fillers some are face fillers, you can fix the battern after you have scribed your filler or if you add your battern to your filler first use the slotted section to attach your u-scribes to the battern and scribe like normal. Any questions there is lots of content over on Instagram and I’m always there to ask any questions anytime thanks Dan
I always do the scribe, then glue an off cut to the edge ( making a right angle) and fix through under hinges. So this way it would work..😁
Great little gadget, however why are you banging the face of finished infill with your hammer , amateurish
We're can I buy pls
Hi james. Our website is www.u-scribejig.co.uk
We ship worldwide
@@u-scribejig how would this work if u needed to see the front edge then as it will have screw holls in
James Cox the hole in the seat position Is for face fillers as that attaches the U-Scribejig to the back of your filler or facia so not to damage the inside or front. 👍🏻
@@u-scribejig can u do a Vid matey
Sounded a bit 'Gappy' !!
sherman squires that was the sweet sweet sound of a caulk free fit 👍🏻
@@u-scribejig ha! well so many people cant achieve that!
@@shermansquires3979 with @uscribejig anyone from pro to DIY can mark the perfect scribe line and im 100% confident they will get better results, all whilst working safer, smarter and easier 👍