aluminum doesn't corrode in salt air. A layer of oxidization will form and that layer will become a barrier. Just keep dissimilar metals out of direct contact. If you paint it - heat will not dissipate. Mount it on the outside and leave it raw.
Nice!! I wish I had a space that big for my Pi 5. The YT method is what I use for testing the temp of my Pi and I found that the heat sink alone lowered the temp enough that the fan never kicked on. That was in my 65F basement with no enclosure though!
Hi Dave, I see you made some choices and did some shopping:)) Nice! Thanks for showing us. And as a result...:)) My thoughts were that in the setup Air is used as a medium for heat transfer. My downjacket, says that that is not as efficient as a aluminium or copper link to the outside heatsink. The sinks on the removable cover instead of fixed placement makes that much harder. I did not came up with an easy solution for this. And it might be that the heatpipe option that is fixed could outperform the efficiency of the air-to air sink. I am no a physics guy by any means, but a cardboard box and some temp measurement would before cutting holes in the plastic housing be very interesting:) Second thought..the next step: is about safety and redundancy, since the NAV for the boat is a for safety a critical component. Which poses fun questions as: Would a separate 12 volt power input connecter be a good idea to be able to run Pi and screen, it if main power input somehow fails? I would opt for a good 4 pin waterproof connector with build a panel/box part to connect the 12-5 volt transformer, no fuss with wires going through and easy to check and swap. How fast can you swap the Pi? or build in a secondary ?:) Lots of choices:)) good luck with your project, it gonna be awesome!
Thanks for all the feedback, a new video is up soon to show the finished enclosure and perform some temperature tests, yes I also thought about using a dedicated lithium battery as you mentioned, probably version 2 or 3 👍 I’m getting lots of viewer suggestions and that’s awesome, I will review them on the next video. Thanks.
Maybe let’s see what the heat tests show I am planning on going to the Caribbean ambients there are up to 100 F or 38 C so I want it robust enough to handle these temps without throttling
aluminum doesn't corrode in salt air. A layer of oxidization will form and that layer will become a barrier. Just keep dissimilar metals out of direct contact. If you paint it - heat will not dissipate. Mount it on the outside and leave it raw.
Thanks for the tip
This is the kind of content I come to TH-cam for.
Love seeing the behind-the-scenes of your projects.
Can't wait to see the finished enclosure!
The attention to detail is next level.
I admire your dedication to getting it just right.
I wish I had your electrical skills, Dave.
Thanks for sharing your expertise with us amateurs.
Dave, you make it look so easy!
This is super fascinating! Can't wait to see this come online.
Dave, you're a problem-solving pro!
Dave, you're a true master craftsman.
Your videos are always so informative and engaging.
I'm learning so much from watching your videos.
I feel like I'm learning so much from watching you work.
Nice!! I wish I had a space that big for my Pi 5. The YT method is what I use for testing the temp of my Pi and I found that the heat sink alone lowered the temp enough that the fan never kicked on. That was in my 65F basement with no enclosure though!
Thanks for the tip, I am going to try it in a room that is 80 F, that should be a real world test for summer cruising
Hi Dave, I see you made some choices and did some shopping:)) Nice! Thanks for showing us. And as a result...:)) My thoughts were that in the setup Air is used as a medium for heat transfer. My downjacket, says that that is not as efficient as a aluminium or copper link to the outside heatsink. The sinks on the removable cover instead of fixed placement makes that much harder. I did not came up with an easy solution for this. And it might be that the heatpipe option that is fixed could outperform the efficiency of the air-to air sink. I am no a physics guy by any means, but a cardboard box and some temp measurement would before cutting holes in the plastic housing be very interesting:)
Second thought..the next step: is about safety and redundancy, since the NAV for the boat is a for safety a critical component. Which poses fun questions as: Would a separate 12 volt power input connecter be a good idea to be able to run Pi and screen, it if main power input somehow fails? I would opt for a good 4 pin waterproof connector with build a panel/box part to connect the 12-5 volt transformer, no fuss with wires going through and easy to check and swap. How fast can you swap the Pi? or build in a secondary ?:) Lots of choices:)) good luck with your project, it gonna be awesome!
Thanks for all the feedback, a new video is up soon to show the finished enclosure and perform some temperature tests, yes I also thought about using a dedicated lithium battery as you mentioned, probably version 2 or 3 👍 I’m getting lots of viewer suggestions and that’s awesome, I will review them on the next video. Thanks.
Nice! Looking forward to see your built Dave.
My initial thought was that you may be over-thinking the potential heat problem but I'm very curious to see what your results are.
Maybe let’s see what the heat tests show I am planning on going to the Caribbean ambients there are up to 100 F or 38 C so I want it robust enough to handle these temps without throttling
Would you please post links for all the parts you're using. Thanks.
Done
The fans are a smart addition for ventilation.